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Toyota Camry: Problems & Solutions
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On page number 210, Part 8 Specifications, Engine: Fuel 1MZ-FE engine - Unleaded gasoline Research Octane Number 91 (Octane Rating 87) or higher.... For improved vehicle performance, the use of premium unleaded gasoline with a Research Octane Number of 96 (Octane Rating 91) or higher is recommended.
I interpret "Research Octane" not to be the octane rating found on the pump. There is nothing that says 92 octane is "required". Nothing....
Also in 97 there was a new body design and different horsepower rating on V6's. If I'm not mistaken, the "recommendation" for fuel on post 96 V6 models is premium.
What's important here is that people read their manual and go with that as there are differences.
My observation of the dealer recommendation is they exceed the factory recommendation and many items are not based on specific to the engine and is generalized and help increase their revenue.
Thanks in advance.!
The 6 cyl was 3VZ-FE
This per the official Toyota Repair Manual
Anyone have luck in getting Toyota HQ in Calif to help with this? Looks like a design defect worthy of a recall.
1. The rust is nothing to worry about. When the wheel covers are removed/replaced, their clips will scrape some of the paint off the wheels, leading to the surface rust.
2. I have no idea why the apparent condensation is forming on the plastic (not glass) speedometer cover. But if you have only 7000 miles (!) on a two-year-old car, that means it must sit a lot. Is it parked in a particularly damp location?
3. I have heard of others complaining about the muffler paint flaking off. I doubt Toyota will do anything about it, as it's a cosmetic flaw, and as such is warranted for no more than a year. Someone mentioned using high-temperature paint to fix the problem.
4. Vibration in the steering wheel at certain (usually higher) speeds usually means unbalanced front tires. I have access to a tire balancing machine at work and I know from using it that the precision of the machine can be seriously degraded by not mounting the tire/wheel properly on the machine, not applying the balancing weights in the proper locations, and not checking the balance again once the weights are in place. Also, tire balance can change as the miles accumulate (seems unlikely in your case with such low total miles).
My dear old Camry (170K miles) suffered an injury coming over a big steel plate in the road. A hole was punched in the transmission pan, and the pan needs replacement and of course new fluid.
What actually happened is that after the bump, the car was running with odd sounds, like roaring and grinding in the engine. It managed to go 12 highway miles (at 60 mph) back to the airport, and restart after a one minute park. It sounded as though it was not finding the right gear as we accelerated awkwardly back onto the highway, and it was gunning and slowing down. We had to pull over and stop. After the engine was off for a few minutes, it started up fine, but wouldn't move out of park. That is, the gear shift would move but pressing the accelerator did nothing in any gear besides gun the motor. The garage has just called to tell me they will replace the pan and fluid for 200$, and then see what happens.
Here's my dilemma: with such an old but pretty reliable car (head gasket leak, kicky transmission, but never breakdowns), is it worth it to spend 200$ on a repair that may not be all that's needed? We were probably going to get rid of the car in the next 8 months anyway, but if anyone here thinks the pan and fluid are all that are needed, then we are willing to go ahead and repair. The garage did not hazard a guess as to odds that the transmission will not need to be rebuilt or replaced.
Thank you,
Juliette94
p.s. I am posting also in other boards
After draining the fluid, I put the drained fluid in a one gallon milk jug to see how much was drained. It appeard to be about 3 quarts. The owener's manual says "UP TO 3.7 quarts"
After putting 3 quarts in it, I started the car, and drove around, and checked it again after transmission warmed up. The level still is good. So, do not follow the manual and put 3.7 quarts. You will OVERFILL it. The 3 quarts is the volume. This is the first car, I have ever seen with a drain plug for auto transmission pan.
My next adventure will be changing differntial fluid.
If you have a 5speed and you put automatic transmission fluid in it...well, duh...you are in deep you know what.
Finding drain and fill plugs are not big deals items. On Camry, once you take the left wheel out you can see both of them.
Fivespeed, give people some credit for what they know and do.
I don't think this is the same as DEXRON, is it alcon? And you are right, some manuals may use transmission fluid. Camry is not one of them.
Thanks for straighting this out rooba10. You get another 2.5 credits... Alcan still receives 1.25 credits... Jodar96 receives 3.0 credits for a good report... Juliette gets about 0.75 credit due to running car for too long when problem surfaced and not getting back to share the outcome of their recent experience...Armtdm gets the usual full compliment for a gracious amount of knowledge. There, credit where credit is due!
Seeing how no one has answered Edwardh5's inquiry, I'll respond, "no". You might could drill a little 3/8" hole in the plastic and form a cleaning device using a copper wire and some clean cloth...just put some windex on the cloth and bend the wire to proper setting...I wouldn't do it to a car, but if it bothers you, then do it. Now how much credit is that worth? LOL
New transmission pan and fluid, running fine.
I know that you are sore about having to cash out the $200. From what I'm reading from your one line communication on your car, the pan and fluid fixed the problem. And, I know that you remember, that that is exactly the recommendation I gave you when you asked your question some posts ago.
You are a smart person to come and ask questions. No one should be ashamed to ask questions. I'm glad your car is fixed and we hope that it will give you another 170K miles of good service. Think it will? Peace Brother!
you too Shiftright....where is my Over the Hill pass?? Pblevine is looking for one too. Do I have to do everything? Chop Chop!
If the shoe fits, then wear it.
Remember: "It takes one to know one".
I tried hot soapy water, and baking soda/hot water. Neither one helped. The opening is too small to get anysize bottle brush in there.
My next try will be using muratic acid! unless someone here has a better suggestion.
Well, the mixture of Dex-Cool and plain old coolant dissolved the discoloration in the coolant tank. Of course the Dex-Cool was also essentially contaminated, so I had to change the antifreeze again.
was this on your 97 camry? I too need new valve stem seals and maybe head gasket replaced. Did the Toyota dealer hammer you about the oil changes. Did they just replace them without a problem? Let me know about your experience. Did they want to see your oil change receipts ? I want to be prepared when I go to the Toyota service with my smoking problem, but I don't want any hassles. I want to extend the lease until the new Camry comes out...but I need to get this fixed without spending a fortune. Thanks.
I'll put it to you this way- my little brother used to make noise bombs by putting aluminum & muratic acid in a 2 liter pop bottle. The acid reacts with the metal & produces enough gas to make the bottle explode loudly. It also kills grass pretty well.
Mike
#310 of 383 '94 Carry Power steering Problems by lake breeze Jan 29, 2001 (07:36 am)
Am encountering my first real problem with my '94 Carry 4cycl.(Japan built) 94,000 i. Turning into my driveway the steering suddenly felt sticky. Hard to turn then it released, hard to turn, release, etc. This seemed to be the case turning left or right. No unusual sound was noticed. I'm afraid of course that the power steering pump my
be failing. The fluid level looks to be o., although it's bearer the fill line than full.
Question being, what should I expect to pay for a repair. I'm moderately handy(replaced the liters in a '74 Javelin) but I doubt this would be an easy/fast repair. Any thoughts? Thanks.
Component: FUEL:THROTTLE LINKAGES AND CONTROL
Manufacturer: TOYOTA MOTOR CO., LTD.
Mfg. Campaign #: 01V012000
Year: 1998
Make: TOYOTA
Model: CAMRY
Potential Number of Units Affected: 53061
Manufactured From: AUG 1997 To: NOV 2000
Year of Recall: '01
Type of Report: Vehicle
Summary:
Vehicle Description: Passenger vehicles built at the Kentucky plant. The accelerator cable housing could be deformed at the cruise control actuator-to-throttle body connection. The accelerator inner-cable could wear away and eventually break.
This could allow the throttle to return to idle or remain in its most recent position regardless of accelerator pedal operation, increasing the risk of a crash.
Dealers will replace the accelerator cable. Owner notification is expected to begin during February 2001. Owners who take their vehicles to an authorized dealer on an agreed upon service date and do not receive the free remedy within a reasonable time should contact Toyota at 1-800-331-4331. Also contact the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration's Auto Safety Hotline at 1-888-DASH-2-DOT (1-888-327-4236).
http://www.nhtsa.dot.gov/cars/problems/recalls/recmmy1.cfm
Any insight into these problems will be greatly appreciated.
The late 80's and early 90's Mazdas had a similar system. You may want to check with their owners also.
Don't know if other vehicles possessed the motorized belt or not...