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Toyota Camry: Problems & Solutions
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Comments
Did you compare it to a GPS system also (like the other guy)?
Sound like people are trusting their GPS 100%
I think the best way to check it is to have a friend drive along side with you and communicate with phone? maybe to make sure both are going the same speed and see what happens.
I know it's hard to argue with the dealer that your car is not showing the correct speed.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
Actually in the old days, they used to read high (indicated speed greater than true speed).
Also, the phone-to-another-driver method running parallel to you will only show the difference between your speedometer and the other guy's. Who's to know which is more accurate?
SMRENNA can you let us know as to what Toyota's response is to your survey..
Thanks
A significant percentage of their reader base/advertising revenue is directly or indirectly related to the Big Three.
This particular article is nothing more than a spin on something of little consequence--creative licence if you will--pointing a negative finger at Toyota and Honda.
I still think that the balance should be checked first before you do anything else. Presumably, you have a guarantee for a free rebalance within x miles?
FWIW, I haven't checked my '05's speedometer yet (16-inch wheels), but the odometer reads about 3% below the "true" mileage based on mileposts. For my '04 Camry with 15-inch wheels, the odometer had a smaller error, and the speedometer was pretty much on the money.
1. Am I supposed to check the coolant level with the car running or off?
2. Could there be coolant in the radiator if the reservoir is empty?
3. Would the position of the leak on the ground indicate whether it's the radiator or a hose/coolant reservoir leak? If not, is there any way to determine the source of the leak at home without special professional equipment?
4. What are the best-case and worst-case secnarios for this and what should they typically cost me? (I'm in Massachusetts). I could just refill the coolant, but it will probably just leak out in a matter of days.
Thanks,
Steve
~Ben
2. Absolutely. Take the radiator cap off and check, BUT ONLY WHEN THE ENGINE IS COLD, like first thing in the morning after the car has been sitting overnight. Otherwise, YOU COULD BE BURNED. The coolant should be very close to the top of the filler neck, just under the cap.
3. Possibly. But you'd have to clean off the existing fluid on the ground first, place a newspaper under the car overnight, and see where the drips are located the next morning. Even then, there's no guarantee, as the leak could start from the radiator for example, and run down one of the hoses until it finally drops off. You might want to try sticking your head underneath (engine OFF) with a flashlight to see if you can locate the source.
4. I don't know, not enough information. If the fluid is reddish brown, it most likely is automatic transmission fluid. If your coolant is green, then it has to be ATF. It's common in older cars for the transmission pan gasket to develop leaks.
However, you really should add more coolant and water (50/50 mix) if the radiator itself is low before you end up overheating the engine. Add the mixture to the reservoir and run the car until the level stays between the "min" and "max" lines. Again DO NOT remove the radiator cap itself while the engine is running and warming up.
BTW, if the amount of white smoke is minimal and only occurs at startup, I wouldn't be overly concerned.
I don't know if you still own that 98 camry? I just had to take the battery back to Auto Parts because it was not cranking and it was still under warranty so they replace it with the 24F-5 that has 731 cold crank amp. I hope that this one last longer. I don't have my owners manual to see if that is the correct crank amp. How did that battery worked for you?
Thanks.
You could get a second opinion from an independent shop with a good reputation -- can you check with friends, neighbors, or co-workers for a recommended one?
I am now questioning the accuracy of the odometer. The next time I am traveling on the interstate highway with post markers I will check.
Have you check the odometer?
I haven't checked my '05's speedometer yet (16-inch wheels), but the odometer reads about 3% below the "true" mileage based on mileposts. For my '04 Camry with 15-inch wheels, the odometer had a smaller error, and the speedometer was pretty much on the money.
I just checked the actual number for the odometer error on the '05 (with the 16-inch wheels), and when 40.0 miles had gone by as indicated by the mileposts, the odometer indicated 39.1 miles (just over 2% shy).
So I don't think a general statement can be made that all Camry speedometers are calibrated for 16-inch wheels.
I'll check the accuracy of my odometer with my GPS unit, which as a built in odometer ( I forgot about this feature) and let you know.
IMHO, everyone should also use the parking brake when the car is parked, especially when it's on a slope. But, in my experience, most people with auto transmissions seem to not use the brake.
The cooling fan is on when the car is running, with and without the A/C on. The car will not overheat while driving because of forced air through the radiator. The car will not get hot while sitting without the A/C on.
The cooling fan is powered by hydraulics, not electronic. I purchased a Haynes repair manual, and it said to connect a jumper wire from terminal OP1 and EC1 on the diagnostic terminal (or something like that), anyway, to check the fan. It is suppose to run at 1100 rpm's. I tried it and nothing happened. Then it says to check the temperature sensor on the passenger side with an Ohm meter. It also says to check the ECU under the glove compartment. The manual never says what to do if one or the other does not work.
I live in the California (Central Valley) where it is really hot during the summer. I can't live without my A/C while driving in the city. Somebody please help me!
Look under "Quick Links" and hit "file a complaint..."
And please consider using your parking brake.
Toyota as of the 2004 model year reduced the oil change interval to 5000 miles or 6 months.
There is an 8-year extended warranty with unlimited mileage for the sludge problem. Your car could be beyond the 8-year limit, depending on when it was built. You need to show that you changed the oil at least once a year, from what I remember, to obtain the benefits of this warranty, if in fact sludge was responsible for the rod blowing.
Took delivery of an 06 Solara 2 weeks ago, same problem-vibrating rear view mirror. Has anyone in the Southwest had a similar problem, any thoughts on a solution.
also.........added Body Side moldings from sportwing.com, they are just terrific. Also added that American tradition, pin striping. Truly sets the vehicle apart from the rest.
You have to remove the interior door panel and carefully peel back the plastic wind shield that covers access holes to the bundle of wires exiting the door. Carefully push and pull on each of the wires going to the switch until you duplicate the working/not working window condition. The wire will be broken inside the insulation, and this occurs from opening and closing the door repeatedly over the years.
Simply cut the wire at the break and strip, clean, twist together and solder the two ends of the broken wire. Then insulate with rubber tape, and you will have no further problems. Even though the wire used is stranded, it either is brittle or becomes brittle over time and occasionally causes this nasty occurence.
The reason this occurs only on temperature rise is that the wires that are still making contact slightly will separate when heated and they or the insulation expands. Cooling causes contraction, and temporary continuity.
Good hunting, and best wishes for a successful outcome.
Otherwise, take the car to at least 2 reputable body shops for a damage estimate. Since the car is older, you don't necessarily have to fix ALL of the damage if you don't care about cosmetic items.
You mentioned your frame is bent. Sound like a serious fender bender to me. The shop need to get the frame back to normal and I think it cost more too.
If you are thinking about getting it fix with your own pocket, good luck because it might cost more than the car is worth.