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Toyota Camry: Problems & Solutions
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Comments
Jay
*The standard "rule of thumb" (literally) is to press the PS pump belt midway between pulleys. If the belt can be deflected more than the width of your thumb, it's not tensioned sufficiently.
Has anyone had this same problem and do you know of a corrective action to this problem?
Sometime ago the MIL started to light up. I haven't noticed any other problems, it starts and drives as good as new. Sometimes MIL didn't light up, and I think it happened mostly in damp weather (on a rainy day), but I might be wrong. Finally the light started to drive me insane, and at the next visit to the dealer (I was replacing timing belts) I asked them to diagnose what's wrong. After spending about 2 hours they came back to me with an ECM code (which I already knew by using an OBD-2 reader) - P1600 (ECM malfunction), and possible nod to the very sloppy alarm installation. That last one was installed at the time of purchase, and worked without problems, but I had a separate grudge on how everything was left loose and tangled. Dealer said that most probably MIL is related to bad wiring or smth like that, but they really have not much clue on how/where to even start diagnosing it because it all looks like one huge spiderweb. I postponed the diagnostics and in the meantime removed the alarm altogether, noticing a lot of wrong cuts (the installer obviously was trying wrong wires at first). Well, this did not fix the problem completely, but it certainly improved it: now on every first start in the morning MIL is OFF! It is back ON on 2nd or 3rd start, and stays ON for the rest of the day... OBD still returns the only code P1600. It's description is too generic for me (I'm a software engineer, and this to me is like a PC giving an error "i'm broken").
I'm wondering if I should replace the ECM, and if so are there any specifics? E.g. would ECM from a 99 4-cyl Camry with an AT (automatic transmission) work properly on an MT (manual) car? Does it need to be re-programmed (or tuned) after installation?
The most common answer for MIL seems to be not tightly closed gas cap, but I always close it tightly; also what could P1600 mean more specifically? And why does this now not happen on the first start during the day (I thought of the engine being cold, but then I'd say since morning till lunch time it cools down enough; one day I was working from home, didn't get to it till evening - same story: 1st start - OK, next - MIL is ON)?
Any advice would be greatly appreciated! Thank you all in advance!
Edge
Any help would be greatly appreciated
Tomorrow, I plan to take my new 2005 4 cyc Camry XLE for the exact same type of malfunction into my Toyota dealer. The only difference being, it has done this for 3 months(and never did it again) and at first I kept thinking it was something with the "panic buttons" on one of the sets of our keys, but now I know that is not the case.....today I have duplicated this malfunction enough to know it has something to do with the trunk or hood sensors/latches....since I have been off from work for 2 weeks and I know what I have touched before the malfunction started again.
Will keep you posted if I or the dealer comes across a solution.
11/04/05 signed tomcat18
NV010R-03: Body - Front Door Glass Wind Noise
I have tried other boards but no luck. The dealer is of no help.
http://news.yahoo.com/s/ap/20051108/ap_on_bi_ge/japan_toyota_recall;_ylt=AjbG.czqjUts7CON8- 3pmAvCL_bIF;_ylu=X3oDMTBiMW04NW9mBHNlYwMlJVRPUCUl
for more information
My 2003 Camry XLE (4 cylinder 4 speed automatic) has been an absolute gem. I have had it almost three years, but never got around to accurately checking the gas mileage.
A recent trip (80% highway, 20% city) returned an overall mileage of 39.7 mpg (Canadian gallon), or about 32 mpg per U.S. gallon. On the highway, cruise control was set at 110 kph (about 69 mph).
This car, made in Japan, has had no rattles,no maintenance issues...just regular oil, filter,and coolant changes.
I hope my good fortune continues...am also very pleased with the Toyota dealer who does all the servicing.
My guess is that the majority of Camry owners (by far), have similar good feelings about their purchase.
Doug
More likely you got a defective replacement part or a bad installation. Your friend may have botched the job.
When changing or rebuilding CV joints the shop manual indicates numerous instances of the need to "match-mark" the various components so they can be reinstalled and "matched" correctly with respect to the inner and outer CV joints.
I can only assume that if the inner and outer CV joints are not correctly "matched up" on reassembly the result would be a "nutating" effect in the front driveline.
This is a typical mistake for a shade tree mechanic, friend, such as I, often make. If your friend carefully marked the CV joints so the new ones could be installed "correctly", then I am totally out of line.
I had a check engine light on, but after reading your post, I remembered that I had filled the tank with the engine running.
And also I hadn't closed the gas cap tightly.
I disconnected the battery for a while, and reconnected it, and it solved the problem!
Only problem was I had to find a 10mm socket to disconnect the negative battery cable. The space was so tight only the exact 10mm socket would work. Wrenches wouldn't fit.
Another thing was I didn't know the alarm goes off when I reconnect the battery, and I was surprised when the alarm went off.
Anyways, thanks for the post.
I have the same problem, and I would like to do it myself.
Thanks.
1-my mechanic cut corners not using the strobo adjustment?
2-can I do it myself (I used to do for my old Ford Taurus; I had the manual with the whole procedure and the strobo light)
3-where can I get the instructions (on the net) how to make the adjustment
Thank you so much
Mark
The RS3200 Plus system in my '05 Camry doesn't document that option in the owner's manual. Not surprisingly, the sequence from the RS3200 doesn't work.
Is it possible to program the RS3200 Plus to unlock all four doors from one press of the Unlock button on the remote? Anybody know the magic sequence to make that happen, or am I stuck with the double-press sequence (which I could learn to live with, but it's annoying)?
Brad.
I plan to run this car into the ground... but I want to disable this light cause its driving me crazy...
If I turn it off or reset it with a diagnostic tool, it comes back on within a day....
Any help please????
Thanks in advance!
I thought it might be a fuse but i checked them all and they seem to be fine. Any suggestions on how to fix this problem? Is there an easy way to get to the actual bulbs to replace them?
Also, on the dashboard shift indicator the "D" light is out. Any easy way to fix it?
Thanx.
I've discovered that it can be changed, but it requires the dealer use the ECM programmer. I may or may not get it done. I'll probably leave it for a while and see if I just get used to it. :-)
Brad.
Good for you for avoiding outrageous dealer charges!
In the old days, you actually had to put the key in the lock cylinder!
And before that, you had to manually raise the lock button on each of the 4 doors (been there and done that)!
This may sound hard and a lot of work, but it really isn't that much work. It took me a total of about 5 mins to do it on my 93. Just take your time, and while you have the dash cover off, you can take a look at the HVAC lights.
I own a 2000 toyota camry with 61000 miles on it. I'm a novice when it comes to car maintenance, so I've few questions for you experts:
1) What things should I get checked by the mechanic? If I go for 60000 mile service, it will cost me around 600$ which I want to avoid...so what particular things are of importance because toyota web site only shows things like Replace engine oil and oil filter, air filter, coolant, spart plugs. I bought the car at 40000 miles from a dealer, so I really don't know what things were done by the previous owner.
2) Should I get timing belt replaced? Should I get transmission fluid replaced?
3) I'm planning to go for a 15 hr trip very soon ...so what are the other things I should get checked before the trip.
Please reply.
Thanks,
Deep
2000 Camry Maintenance
there is also a section in your owner's manual (assuming you have one) explaining what the manufacturer suggests is appropriate service at your mileage.
good luck
What things should I look for? Anything to be aware of? I have read several of the posts and have noticed a "sludge" theme. . . what exactly does that mean?
I'm looking for a reliable car. Further, I don't like to trade cars so I'm hoping to keep whatever I buy for a long time.
Thoughts or advice?
Thanks! :confuse:
1997-2001 Camry 4 and 6 cylinder were prone to sludge....2002 Camry 4cylinder was NOT it is a totallly different motor 2.4L Vs Camry's previous 2.2L motor...However early production 2002 Camry 6 Cyl WAS prone to sludge.. so all in all..2002+ Camry's were were not nearly as likely to sludge, save for early 2002 and maybe 2003 Camry 3.0L V6's..the 2002+ redesign carried over the previously used camry 6cyl..Not the four..
I got the dealer to come down $400, tomorrow I will likely get it for $12,500
It checked out clean as a private 1 owner...
Hopefully i will last at least 6 years...good luck Sean