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Toyota Camry: Problems & Solutions

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Comments

  • 210delray210delray Member Posts: 4,721
    Thanks, well, so far so good, even with my Bridgestone Potenzas RE92s, with a treadwear rating of only 160. I've got over 9300 miles on the '05 Camry XLE and it appears the tires are not wearing out prematurely.

    I rotated them once so far, and used the full-size spare in the rotation.

    I haven't measured the tread though yet with my tread depth gauge.
  • tatabocatataboca Member Posts: 1
    I have the same problem and could not find if
    anyone replied to your question. If you have an answer by any chance, I would appreciate if you can forward the programing instructions to me as well.

    Thanks

    Bob
    tataboca@hotmail.com
  • rodderrodder Member Posts: 2
    I know this is a bit off the forum here but I would like to vent my disgust for my local Toyota dealer. I took my 94 v6 Camry to the local dealer for a check engine light on and valve seals. I had already discussed the repairs with them and we agreed the price would be about 1450.00. The next day I get a call from them telling me I needed 4050.00 in repairs now! Instead of just keeping to the repairs at hand the mechanic went over the entire car looking for other things to replace. Basically, everything from the back bumper to the front bumper needed replacing according to him. I immediately asked if the mechanic worked on commission and the answer was yes. I expressed my anger at being ripped off and they tried to assure me that this mechanic was not ripping me off. By the time I finished with them the bill was down to 3000.00, still way too much.
    My question is, do all Toyota mechanics work on commission?
    This practice has been outlawed in some states for obvious reasons.
    Are others experiencing this with their dealers?
  • dmxd99dmxd99 Member Posts: 1
    I just bought a new Camry 2006 SE V6 a month ago. After driving about 500 miles, I saw 2 grooves all the way around the rear passenger side rotor. I took it to the dealer and they replaced the rear right rotor, and the 2 rear brake pads. I am not quite happy with the parts they replaced. The original rotor surface was brownish but the new replaced part is very bright and light silver. I am doubt that they shaved the old one to remove the grooves. The original brake pads were black and now they have the blue ones in there. Not sure they are Toyota genuine parts or not.

    Here are the problems I am concerned the most. After getting the car back, the brake seems to be softer and it takes more distance for the car to stop. The second problem is the acceleration. The car is reluctant to move. I have to push the gas pedal down more to get the same speed as before I took the car to dealership. I am not sure if the brake pads were too close to the rotor that is why it keeps the car from accelerating faster. Any advices from car repair experts are greatly appreciated. Even the car has warranty but it is very hard to deal with the service people in the dealership. They usually claim everything is normal. They don't really care about customer satisfaction. What should I do in this case? How do I talk to them to get this resolved without too much of hassle? Thank you for reading my post.
  • crisicrisi Member Posts: 2
    I have a '95 camry and something very similar happened to me. I was at my folks' house and my Mom told me my car was ticking like a clock. We looked under the hood and a relay marked "head" was ticking. I did not attempt to start the car, but took the relay out. I then tried to see if it would start (or something would pop up to indicate an issue). NOTHING!!!
    I then put the relay back in and it did not tick (thought it might have been knocked out of place and needed to reset). I then tried to start the car again, nothing. The next evening I replaced the relay, nothing (but the door ajar light came on). After trying to jump it to no avail I opened the door to get the key out and the door ajar light did not turn on. I tried to lock the door and it would not lock (electric locks). I could not even push the button on the auto shift to move it out of park and into neutral.
    When jumping it my cell phone car charger light came on, but nothing else did. PLEASE HELP!!!
    Crisi
  • user777user777 Member Posts: 3,341
    just guessing. your battery is nearly dead, but the little LED (light emitting diode) on the cell phone charger cord is illuminating because it takes next to no current and voltage to energize.

    if me, i'd take my battery out, bring it to an autoparts store, see if it is at no charge, and consider either getting someone to externally charge it, or purchase a new one (probably the latter), being mindful that if I live in a northern climate, to go with the same or more cranking amps than the one I'm replacing.
  • j_jaff2j_jaff2 Member Posts: 2
    My camry has a condition where the first time it starts up in the morning it will not start. It used to be worse during cold weather now its randomly bad no matter if its cold or warm outside. Once you finally get it cranked it will run good all day. You can definitely smell the gas when you attempt to start it and it used to give a code 14 which is ignition signal. The IGF signal is good at between 4.9 and 5 volts. However the IGT when working normally will be between 5 and 6 volts when this condition occurs it is at anywhere from 3 to 6,7 or even 8 volts. PS. Changing out the ignitor had no benefitial effects and the distributor (which had gone out a year ago) is brand new. Does anyone have any idea what could cause this?
  • haefrhaefr Member Posts: 600
    Almost sounds like the parking brake isn't fully releasing.
  • crisicrisi Member Posts: 2
    So far so good. I left it to charge all night last night. I have been driving the spare car all week. Well, left it to charge and took it off this morning on the way to school and then did not try to start it until this afternoon. I am a little afraid to drive it around in case it dies while I am on the road, but if it held the charge all day it should be good right? I am going to Autozone to get the battery checked anyway, just in case. Would still love your input. Again, thank you so much.
    Crisi
  • 210delray210delray Member Posts: 4,721
    Well, to get free service, you have to go back to the dealer. Still, you don't have go back to the same dealer. Is there another Toyota dealer nearby that has a better reputation for service?

    Alternatively, you could ask to test drive another Camry just like yours and see how it behaves. If there's no difference, then I wouldn't worry about it.

    BTW, I'd have a hard time believing a Toyota dealer wouldn't use genuine replacement Toyota parts, especially for a new car under warranty.

    Also in regard to Edmunds, the hosts are sooner or later going to move this topic to Toyota Camry Problems and Solutions.
  • john2john2 Member Posts: 2
    My wife's Camry has the same problem. The clicking noise in the wheel disappears when I hold the small universal joint under the dash with a padded visegrip (not while I am driving, of course). It began this week. The car has 42,000 km (25,00 miles). Is this an urgent repair or can it wait until the next oil change at 48,000 km? Thanks in advance.
  • john2john2 Member Posts: 2
    I had a similar problem with a 2000 Camry. The squeek came from the right front bolt holding the seat to the floor. I had to remove the bolt and put a thin rubber gasket between the bolt and the seatframe. The seat never squeeked again. My 2001 Echo has a squeek in the seatback, but that one is in the frame or cushion. I have learned to live with it.
  • user777user777 Member Posts: 3,341
    well, hopefully by now you've determined if it is holding a charge or not. the smart thing you did was charging it externally after it was depleated, because using the alternator would have killed it probably.

    autozone and others have testers that can put a progressive load on the battery and alternator, and determine if one or both is not working properly.

    the cost of a battery isn't too bad.

    hope it worked out for you.
  • txaudtxaud Member Posts: 6
    I have an '03 Camry which has the water sloshing sound that has been described by a few on this forum. I have looked for the A/C drain and found what I think it is but I want to be sure of the location before I try to clean it out. Can someone provide a specific description of the location? Thanks!
  • vcdgeekvcdgeek Member Posts: 4
    I too started hearing them from last month or so...
    Mine is 2002 Camry and has 45k miles on it..
    Anybody has solution to this?

    Thanks alot...
  • tytaphdtytaphd Member Posts: 1
    the sound u r hearing is not from the ac!first inspect coolant level as there may be an air pocket running through heater core .next visually inspect waterpump for leaks it will be very visible ,underneath alternator
  • badprasbadpras Member Posts: 2
    I just bought this 02 Camry LE V6 with 47,000 miles on it, and the previous owner didn't get the smog check done. The car is in very good condition, and I didn't except smog check problems.

    But the first place I took it for the CA Smog check (a 76 gas station), the mechanic tried to do the test 3 times and gave up, saying, "your car is too sensitive. i cant make it maintain 15mph speed. try some place else, with different equipment".

    The next place I took it to (another 76), said the car failed the CA smog test. The emissions were ok, but the "Check Engine" light came on during the test. The fault code was "P0500 Vehicle Speed Sensor Malfunction". But the check engine light went away after I drove the car for a few miles.

    (Incidentally, the ABS warning light also comes on during the test and goes away after a while.)

    So now I am confused. Should I try my luck with a different Smog Test station, or take it to the dealer for some diagnostics?

    Any useful advice is welcome. Thanks.
  • smrennasmrenna Member Posts: 6
    ABS warning lite blinks sometimes when ignition is turned on. When ignition is turned off and turned on again the blinking stops. Does anyone have any idea what is causing this problem?
  • haefrhaefr Member Posts: 600
    "BTW, I'd have a hard time believing a Toyota dealer wouldn't use genuine replacement Toyota parts, especially for a new car under warranty."

    Agree. Not all the parts automakers hang on the car at the factory are actually made by the automaker - they all outsource many components. Perhaps Toyota furnished replacement components from one of the many sources they contract with to the dealer. If that's the case, the replacement part IS a "Toyota" part - just not made by Toyota.
  • badprasbadpras Member Posts: 2
    Just an update. i took a chance and took the car to a Test only smog center, and lo and behold, it passed with out any problems. No Check Engine light this time. Guess the other SMOG check station screwed it up.
  • sghillsghill Member Posts: 1
    My 2004 Camry, 30,000 miles, has same problem. Took it to dealer on December 10 and he knew what it was right away. He was not able to repair it because Toyota refused to send him a new part (does this mean that parts in the warehouse have same defect and Toyota is stopping the dealers from installing replacement parts that are also defective?)
    On the service sheet was this notation:
    "found intermittent steering shaft in need of replacement. Toyota will be releasing a recall regarding condition in near future. Will receive notice by mail."
    I am still waiting for recall notice.
  • txaudtxaud Member Posts: 6
    Thanks for the suggestion. I have inspected the coolant and it appears fine as does the water pump. Anything else that I can look for to slove this problem? Thanks again!
  • reb331reb331 Member Posts: 6
    I own a 98 Camry XLE with a V6 engine which I bought used in 2002 from a GM dealer.(94,000kms) The car has performed very well and I have had it serviced regularily at a Toyota dealership.I recently had it in for an oil change, new transmission fluid, rad flush and front brakes.

    The next day the car stared to make a very loud noise from the engine and we had it towed to the same dealership. After some investigation I was told that a bearing was gone in the engine(piece broke off) I then went onto the "Forums" site and read up about "oil sludge problems on Toyotas" in cars of this era.I mentioned this to the service manager. To make a long story longer, Toyota replaced the short block, oil pump , ground the valves, and re sealed the heads. By the way my car is 8 years old and has 176,000 kms now. Needless to say we are very happy that Toyota covered the entire repair cost. Thanks to all the folks who supplied the info on "forums". I hope this helps others who may have similar problems.
  • ford1953jimedford1953jimed Member Posts: 3
    My 2004 Japanese (manual transmission) Camry has the same problem. It is still under warranty, but I have not taken it in yet. Does anyone know anything about this recall?
  • ford1953jimedford1953jimed Member Posts: 3
    I just found reference to TSB ST001-06 STEERING INTERMEDIATE SHAFT NOISE on TundraSolutions.com.
  • toyoman1toyoman1 Member Posts: 52
    Ok Ok so its a simple problem... my camry btw everyone is still running strong just hit 176k the other day. So this morning I went to pull my cell phone charger out of the lighter port and the whole port came out with the charger... when I plugged it back in it worked for a few minutes then it shut off and has been dead since... what can I do to ressurect my power supply? Thanks

    HAPPY MOTORING
    TOYOMAN1
  • negativenegative Member Posts: 107
    I have a '97 Camry LE 4 with 128,000 miles that needs a new steering rack. Judging from the auto parts chains' web sites, there are a lot of options out there, ranging widely in price. On the web sites, the names of the manufacturers of the part are almost never given. How do I choose?

    A few weeks ago, I noticed spots on my garage floor. The dealer tells me that the rack is leaking and causing the steering boots to swell with power steering fluid. (I didn't even know there were such things as steering boots.) If the problem isn't fixed, the dealer warns that the boots could rupture. The leak must be slow, because I checked the levels of all fluids just before bringing the car to the dealer, and they were all OK.

    The dealer wants $1100 to replace the rack with Toyota parts, but tells me that they'll do the labor for $470 if I bring them a rack.

    Part of me thinks I'm crazy for continuing to put money into this car. It's been springing leaks (oil leaks until now) for two years, and I've been patching them up. In fact, I just bought a Hyundai Sonata 4, but driving back from the Hyundai dealer the other day, I realized I don't want to part with this car just yet. In spite of its 133 HP engine, it would blow the doors off a Sonata 4. And I was offered only $3000 for it as a trade-in. So I will fix it and put it out to pasture.

    Any advice on how to buy a steering rack?

    Thanks.
  • negativenegative Member Posts: 107
    My dealer charged me about $70 last time I needed the cigarette lighter repaired. Not cheap, but if you really need it fixed, it might be worth it.
  • another_personanother_person Member Posts: 93
    are you sure you seated the connector? The plug might just be loose, in any case, it should be an easy replacement. Just remove the plastic surround and plug the connector to the port.
  • aub789aub789 Member Posts: 19
    Recently purchased new 06 Camry and turned over my trusty 01 Camry to teenaged son. Maybe I should have done a little more homework and test-driving, but this new Camry is really noisy. It's a good thing my new car has volume control on the steering wheel, because I constantly have to adjust it for speed and road noise. Meanwhile, my old Camry still runs whisper quiet even at highway speed, and actually drives and handles like a car instead of a boat (the new Camry floats and steers like I'm on the ocean). I never thought I would regret buying a new Camry, but I find myself wishing for my old car back. The only solution I can think of is tires; I put Firestone Affinity LH30's on my old Camry about two years ago and was immediately impressed then by the quiet ride and handling. This new Camry has Goodyear Integrity tires (not H-rated); is it possible that tires can make such a huge difference as I'm experiencing, or is the newer generation Camry just a softer and noisier vehicle? I hate thinking of replacing tires with only 2500 miles on them, but I just may do it if other forum members have had similar experiences and recommend doing so. Thanks for any ideas.
  • bildowbildow Member Posts: 100
    You can buy thru pep boys, almost any good auto store will carry the rack and have any private auto repair that works on toyota's replace the rack it's not such a big job another trick you can do for next time is use dexron 3 transmission fluid to change your power steering fluid about every 25,000 to 30,000 miles this will help keep your rack in good shape. Just like your transmission fluid should be changed every 20,000 to 25,000 this will help keep your transmission going for many miles. If you should decided to change your own power steering fluid pump out the power steering pump :shades: and refill it at least 3 times running the car about 15 minutes to exchange the oil in the system each time you change it.
  • user777user777 Member Posts: 3,341
    visit www.tirerack.com and compare your tires with alternates w.r.t. noise. i believe that yes, tires can play an important part in generating and transmitting road noise to the cabin.

    w.r.t. floating, check the sidewall rating on your tires. yours may be grossly underinflated. of course, running them nearer to rating will cause probably more noise and more sensitivity to steering input.

    *perhaps* there is some adjustment which can be performed related to steering power boost. perhaps you could research that angle.

    there may be something else you can do w.r.t. stuts. dunno. good luck.
  • moses18moses18 Member Posts: 3
  • moses18moses18 Member Posts: 3
    93 Toyota dome light out but I can't see how to replace the plastic cover short of prying it out with a screwdriver. I don't think the cover would survive that -and owner's manual does not help.
  • haefrhaefr Member Posts: 600
    The very FIRST thing I'd do would be to check the tire pressures if YOU'VE never done so. Cars are shipped with tires inflated to around 45 lbs to minimize flatspotting in transit. The take-yer-money-ships' prep crews are supposed to adjust it down to the manual's recommendations before delivery, but we're not talking brainiacs here, so assume nothing. My '03 Sonata's Michelin "Energy MXV4+"s were boosted to a little above 45 lbs. These are very noisy tires anyway, but at that pressure, they really sang.
  • j_jaff2j_jaff2 Member Posts: 2
    I found the solution to the problem. The distributor that had been replaced a year ago was bad again. It seems the IGT voltage should be a consistant 1 volt give or take. Flunctionation of this voltage probably means your distributor is shot. Certain times the distributor would test fine. Other times it tested bad after being plugged into the car for awhile. What seems to have happened is the pickup coil(cam sensor) in the distributor had internal windings that were going bad. Hence the erratic behavior. I also assume seeing that the cam senor only plugs into the computer that its was possible the computer blew out the cam sensor prematurely so I have replaced the computer fairly cheaply at the salvage yard.
  • moses18moses18 Member Posts: 3
    93 Toyota dome light out but I can't see how to REMOVE the plastic cover short of prying it out with a screwdriver. I don't think the cover would survive that -and owner's manual does not help.
  • 210delray210delray Member Posts: 4,721
    Neither Firestone Affinity or Goodyear Integrity are top-rated tires. But as haefr said, check the pressure first. Toyota recommends only 29 psi in the 2002-06 models, but I go with 33-35. It doesn't cause uneven tire wear, and the owner's manual even says to use 35 psi if you go 100 mph or more. (I don't!)

    I had the Goodyear Integrity tires on my '04 LE, and they weren't at all noisy. And the '04 was quieter overall than the '97 LE that preceded it, but not by a whole lot.

    About the floatiness, I'm not sure there's anything wrong. But you could always test drive another Camry like yours at the dealership to determine if yours is somehow abnormal.
  • negativenegative Member Posts: 107
    Thanks for the advice. I am one of those suckers who goes for the dealer's maintenance schedule, even if it's probably not necessary, so that fluid should have been changed a few times by now. I'll review my records to see.
  • kyjeeperkyjeeper Member Posts: 31
    I bought a 2005 Camry that had noisy Brigstones they were wore some so I replaced with Kumo. They are just as noisy, if you have radio on low you cann't hardly here it. Took to dealer he said it was tires. Easy answer. If it wasn't for noise this would be nice car to drive. This guy I run into said Avalon were quieter I don't know maybe 2007 camry will be better. You are not alone mine is noisey :cry:
  • 210delray210delray Member Posts: 4,721
    Well, "noisy" is a relative thing. My first new car, a 1975 VW Rabbit, was a proverbial tin can -- very noisy. The '79 Rabbit that replaced it was noticeably quieter.

    Then I bought a used 1980 Volvo 240 that sounded like a luxury car to me -- so quiet, or so I thought.

    But it was nothing compared to my new 1990 Mercury Sable, and so it goes.

    My '04 and '05 Camrys are very quiet, the former even when it still had the OEM Goodyear Integrity tires. Now I have Hankook Optimo tires on it, and it's still very quiet. The '05 Camry has OEM Bridgestone Potenza RE92s.
  • ewe2ewe2 Member Posts: 20
    I really don't know why it would be any noisier than the 01. Are they not the same body style?
    If you really want to drive a noisy car drive a Nissan Altima 2.5s. We just traded our 2005 Altima in for a 2006 Camry because the engine was so noisy it was obnoxious. No matter what speed.
    And the ride? The Altima's ride would be equivalent to sitting on a skate board and riding that. We also have a 2005 Honda Element and that put the Altima to shame as far as ride and road noise. Both the Honda and the Toyota beat the Nissan head's down as far as quality and fit goes. Nissan also designed the 2.5S only with a AC/heating unit that if you used any "windshield" or the "recycle" settings. The AC stayed on until you re started the car. Very bad design. Our Altima had 7,000 miles when we traded it in and it was waiting for it's third stereo replacement. The Camry is like driving in heaven compared to the Nissan.
    Seeing it's our first Toyota I will say I do not care for the cruise control setup or the fact it seems to downshift on the least little grade a lot.

    D
  • 210delray210delray Member Posts: 4,721
    You'll get used to the cruise control and probably even come to like it.

    With regard to downshifting, the transmission is a 5-speed, so it will downshift more readily (more gears).

    In hilly terrain, you can always lock out 5th gear (overdrive) to keep the tranny from going no higher than 4th gear.
  • bildowbildow Member Posts: 100
    I also have a 2006 camry and found it a little noisy I see you were concerned about your 5 speed trans. While I am in town going around 50 mph or on the freeway in bumper to bumper traffic I leave the over drive off to keep from it shifting from 4th to 5th all the time wearing out the overdrive clutches I was told it's best to just use 4th while in town or in slow traffic on open roadways. While in the mountains I only use 4th gear while going up or down to keep control for the car and not having the overdrive always going on and off wearing out the 5th gear clutches. Lexus next year on the new LS460 is supposed to have an 8 speed transmission that ought to keep you busy.
  • 210delray210delray Member Posts: 4,721
    In low-speed bumper-to-bumper traffic, it's not really necessary to lock out overdrive (5th) because you're never going to go fast enough for the tranny to shift into 5th in the first place.

    Interesting that back in the 60s GM went from a 4-speed Hydramatic tranny to a 3-speed because people didn't like to feel the shifts so often. Of course, neither the 4-speed or 3-speed units were true overdrive trannies.

    Today, shifts are (usually) smoother, and I would assume the upcoming 8-speed in the Lexus will have barely perceptible shift points.
  • jillbeejillbee Member Posts: 1
    Does anyone know how to disable the seat belts noise in a 2005 Camry. If so please let me know...I don't drive with the belt off but I do park into my garage spot with it off and the noise is so annoying, I am thinking of getting a different car.
  • moeharrimoeharri Member Posts: 108
    Here is how to do it. Turn the car to On (don't start it) and then press and hold the trip/odometer stick for about 10 seconds (you must do this within about 3 seconds or turning the car to On). Then, while still pusing in the stick, buckle your seatbelt (I do this by having it close to the buckle before I turn on the car). When you do this, you should see b-on or b-off displayed in the odometer area. If it displays b-on, simply release the trip/odometer stick and press it again. This should work (worked on my 05 XLE). Good luck (I hated the beeping too, while driving in parking lots, etc--I always wear my seatbelt while driving on roads).
  • 95mike95mike Member Posts: 1
    My '95 Camry LE driver door will not unlock either with the key or manual unlock on inside door handle or the all-door unlock swithch. The other 3 doors work fine. I need to get the door open to access the inside panel to find out what's causing this. We've tried different keys, inside/outside, window up/down. My son did get it to unlock once, but closed the door and it locked up again. :cry:
    My manuals only tell what to do if the door is open.
    Any ideas?
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    I've been trying to figure out for weeks how Toyota determines that the accelerator pedal is in the fully released, idle, position. I can fully understand how they determine the initial position when the battery is first connected, but how...

    Then this morning it hit me.

    You must depress the brake pedal, FIRMLY, in order to shift out of parking gear. If I were the engineer writing the firmware that is exactly when I would most expect the accelerator pedal to be fully released.

    So, if, drive cycle after drive cycle, the shift from park into a drive range occurs with the gas pedal depressed, even ever so slightly, the engine/transaxle ECU might re-learn, likely adjusting the parameter gradually, the sensor output voltage for the accelerator pedal idle position.

    The next part you will not believe.

    I NEVER use my left foot for braking..

    WRONG!

    My RX is always parked "nose in" into the garage.

    This morning I used my left foot to brake while I started the RX and shifted into reverse, and continued to brake with my left foot as I backed out of the garage.

    I know I do not use my left foot for braking in the normal sense and I have no idea when or how I developed the habit of doing it in reverse, or maybe only while backing out of the garage.

    So, if you have DBW be sure you do not have any pressure on the accelerator pedal as you firmly depress the brake in order to shift into gear. And be mindful of floor mats having inadvertently slipped forward and now laying on the accelerator pedal.

    Kudoes to user777, to whom I should have listened more closely and who was much closer to this idea than I was.
  • scoti1scoti1 Member Posts: 676
    Wwest,

    Question... I know you have been contemplating this problem for many months now, but I would like to assume that Toyota engineers are at least as smart as you and User777 (this is not meant as a put down to either of you) and I would hope that they have been spending more time on it than you have (hopefully since it first presented itself in 2002), so don't you think this is something that they would have figured out by now? Man, it sounds like an EASY fix if it is the problem.

    Too bad the Toyota-Lexus transaxle shift delay forum is closed. I am sure what you have surmised would be of interest to more than Toyota Camry owners.

    (Like you, I would swear I am not a left foot braker, but...just like you, my driveway is a downslope and in the event I pull in behind by wife, I must keep a foot on the brake as a press the gas to keep from rolling into her.)
This discussion has been closed.