Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!
Toyota Camry: Problems & Solutions
This discussion has been closed.
Popular New Cars
Popular Used Sedans
Popular Used SUVs
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
Comments
I had posted this in Corolla topic few months ago but noboday reply.
Thank a lot.
Thank you
It needed a ball joint when I first put it on the road this past September. My neighbor did it for me and had to pound the old one out with a hammer for hours. I drove around with bad brakes for months. When I finally took it it in it need new rotors, pads, drum liners, the drum it self had to be resurfaced, a caliper was sticking and the brakes needed to be bled. Now the thing stops so smooth it brakes like it was new. The cooling fan never shut off, they checked it and simply cleaned the connector plugs which has some corrosion. Now that works properly, only coming on when needed. I feel this car will get me well past 200,000 miles.
what is the recommended idle rpm for 1999 - 4 cyl Camry
(A/T) on cold start and when warm?
Thanks
If you have to pay for a new engine, I wouldn't bother, as the cost of the engine is basically the cost of the car. (I sold my '97 Camry with 111K miles two years ago for $4300 on eBay.)
Did you have any other signs or symptoms prior to the engine shutting down? With sludge there is sometimes visible smoke coming from exhaust (if you live in a cold weather area, this may not have been noticeable this time of year), check engine light can come on, and sometimes you can actually see the sludge around the filler cap and on the dipstick. Also, it would have seemed like your car was using a lot of oil if you were checking the level regularly.
One other thing, I think that the free sludge repair under the policy was for 7 years from original purchase date, so yours technically would not qualify for the free repair unless they did it for a good will gesture. You would also have to prove that you reasonably maintained your car and it could be difficult to produce all of the service records.
If I remember correctly, you need only have evidence of one oil change per year.
My 1999 camry had the same problem. There is a V shaped spring like thing at the hinge of the lid door which helps the lid door to pop open when you pull the release lever. Mine was broken.You can buy it from the toyota dealer.Cost around 20 dollars.Pull out any remnants of the old one and clip on the new one .You are all set.
it keeps coming back everytime i cleaned it.THANKS...
sofl06avalon, "Toyota Avalon 2005+" #11643, 17 Mar 2006 8:21 pm
Evidently there is encouraging news that by simply adjusting one's foot position on the pedal, the operability of the vehicle is dramatically different.
By doing this, you can not tell how far you apply the pedal. Besides, it would make your foot very tired.
I do not think this is a solution.
Thanks,
R
She came up the driveway, was going to turn around and leave the Toyota out (we have a circular driveway). She braked (you have to, the driveway ends and the garage is 100 degrees to the right)and then started making the turn when the car started accelerating on its own. She tried to keep it turing right, towards the circular driveway, but ended up going 90 feet before hitting the garage wall and the axle falling out on the right (after it hit the Jeep in the garage I presume) kept it from going any further.
The insurance examiner tells me, after several hours discussion and exam of the car, that he is convinced something did happen out of the ordinary. I have asked Toyota to pull the codes on the car and do whatever is necessary to find out what happened. I have been contacted by them, but did not get the sense they were going to look into it very deeply. When I told the Toyota rep I wanted their examiner to pull the black box codes, she responded they would look at the car, but it would take a technician to do that.
I could write at length about why I believe there is a problem with the car, but I figure that would take too much space. I have filed an NHTSA report (10154294). Will see what happens.
As for the car, well, I am insured and it will be covered, however, a car that my wife treats like it is jewelry, with only 16,000 miles on it, kept in the garage on rain and cloudy days, and only 2.5 years old, should not suddenly go flying into my garage. My garage also will never be the same (it is block and brick, which is hard to match). Has anyone else out there heard of anything happening like this with a Camry? I bought it because I wanted a car that was as reliable as a refrigerator.
The brakes will stop the car even if the accelerator is on full.
An insurance examiner is convinced???????? Most of them are clerks!!
The accelerator instead of the brake happened to me once and I couldn't believe it.
There is probably about a 1% chance of auto malfunction and a 99% chance of driver error.
Humans are not as reliable as a refrigerator and machines malfunction ocassionally.
STOP what you're doing, get off the brake immediately. But the engine/drivetrain is still wrapped up.
Remove the carpet mat from behind the brake pedal but laying over the accelerator pedal...
She had to come to almost a dead stop to make the turn, 3-4 MPH maximum, and turn very hard right. Insurance guy kept looking at the cruise control lever. Told me if she had a death grip on the wheel and turned it left, it would have accelerated. I pointed out that if you did that and turned right, you would be pushing the lever down, not up, causing it to coast. She was not making a left hand turn, or she would be in the lake below our house. Cruise should disconnect on braking anyway. Then again, she rarely ever uses cruise on the highway, never elsewhere, and was not using it that day. She had 90 feet from the turning point to react if she had her foot on the accelerator, which she did not. Has not had an accident in 25 years of driving either. This was a Saturday, stress free, until the accident.
I guess what bothers me is there is no urgency to look at the electronics. I assume they have a black box on these, perhaps not. If she is at fault and Toyota has no problem, you would think they would be racing here to check the codes. Of course the electronics is suspect, but I'd like it done nonetheless. If she hit the gas mistakenly, which I doubt, then it would show that perhaps. Then again, its easier to say, driver error, and wait for the next one to go by itself. But I'll see what Toyota does in the next few weeks. Perhaps they will come through and do a little more than just look at the wreck and say, yes, its broken.
i'm not sure of this, and so i cannot claim to know one way or another; it's just an opinion.
maybe you want to research it.
STOP what you're doing, get off the brake immediately. But the engine/drivetrain is still wrapped up.
That is not the first thing you would do if you were surprised by sudden acceleration.
Logic does not rule in those situations as you think it might.
You would push harder on what you think is the brake pedal. With enough time/distance to think about it, you will come to the correct realization, but not in 90' of acceleration.
Internet excerpt:
Most S/A cases I've had were "from a stop" in which "the car just roared to life and took off," which is the most commonly reported scenario. Usually, the driver is sure they were on the brake, but the car just kept going. "The harder I pressed on the brake pedal the faster it went." Yes, I have actually had people say that to me. Sometimes they say the shifter jumped into gear, as well. I've never found a problem with the brakes, the shifter, or the throttle in any of these cars, but not for lack of trying.
Thus the issue of "pedal error" looms large. Despite the insistence of some people in the field that "nobody could possibly goof that badly," I have personally documented three cases where that is exactly what happened, using the data recorded by the airbag module. Two of them were normal passenger vehicles, and one was a hand-control-equipped handicap van, in which the driver insisted he had pushed the lever forward (brake) but instead got full throttle. The data recorder in all cases showed full throttle with no braking in the seconds leading to the collision. See my CDR page (mfes.com/cdr.html) for more info on this system. Further to the pedal-error issue, research into "Human Error Probability" (HEP) has shown that many tasks (including reading a digital display, setting a multiposition switch, and turning a control) have error rates in the 1 in 1,000 range (Swain & Guttmann, 1980). A study by Rogers and Wierwille (1988) which monitored driver's pedal usage during extended driving periods in vehicles having various pedal configurations recorded 15 serious pedal errors, with 12 of them being errors which involved depressing the throttle instead of or in addition to the brake when the brake was desired. Given that there were about 7,000 pedal applications in this study, the potential for error appears to be right in line with the earlier reported HEP for other controls. It is interesting to note, though, that there were no occurances of sustained pedal error, such as would be required for a vehicle to roar to life and cross a parking lot. This perhaps speaks to the infrequency of such S/A complaints: Even for a high complaint-rate vehicle, there is approximately one incident per 400 driver-years. That is to say that an average operator, with average driving habits would experience one S/A incident in about six or seven lifetimes of driving. (NHTSA, 1989)
If there is nothing wrong with the car, no codes will show. The computers are not constant cockpit data recorders in these vehicles that can replay the last 5 minutes or so.
The above link is not working to view the document.
The warrnty states something like this below
"Here is an Excerpt:
"The enhancement coverage is on the Evaporative System and is extended to the components specified below for a period of 14 yrs or 150,000 miles from the vehicles in service date, whichever occurs first.
-Evap storage canister
-Evap system pressure sensor
-Fuel cap
-Fuel tank
-Fuel tank filter neck
-Purge valve
-Tank vapor vent line
-Three-way valve
-Any ohter part or component, including any maintenance parts, between the fuel tank and teh intake manifold (but not including the intake manifold) designed to contain or conduct fuel vapor from the fuel system"
please help
thanks
It happened to me once, when I run the corolla over big puddle water, card suddenly accelerated. I had to put transmission into neutral. It took 10 minutes for the idle came back to normal.
Would I be better off taking that to an auto sound shop rather than the dealer to save a few bucks? Or is there a way I can do it myself?
Every time after I accelerate above 2000 on the RPM, then I let go of my gas pedal. The RPM meter would jump a little and I also would feel the car jerk slightly as the RPM meter drops below 1200. It happens very consistently on the flat pavement road, but not as much on a bumpy street. My car has less than 1800 miles. This problem occurs since day 1 that I owned it.
Please: any suggestions, comments?
Greatly appreciated
No, don't try to get it out yourself.