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You could get a pretty good shock from a Tesla, too.
Interesting the sources that the author quotes....
I would bet that most of those slideshows, on all topics, are inferior advice to the traditional Betty Crocker Cookbook or [insert a quality subject matter reference material here.] I know this does not help the cause, but for example that blog illustrates how bad information is now a universal problem.
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Slightly edited, word processing and spell checker has come a long way since 2001...…
Jan 6th 2001......
>O.K., here's the vehicle- '94 Caravan 3.3 O/D
>
>Complaint-Extended crank and hard start in the morning.
>Runs fine otherwise.
Piece of cake when approached with a plan. It's important
to understand the system you are facing's characteristics.
Chrysler looks for ignition reference in order to power up
the fuel pump during cranking, but otherwise has a two
second priming pulse upon first turning the ignition on. A
hard or extended crank may mean you have ten seconds to
analyze this, so all of your testing has to be completed
before the car starts. You know you need compression, spark
and fuel to run, and since once this starts it runs fine,
compression is not a concern, that leaves fuel and spark.
Here is what I would do, hook up an ST-125 to check for
spark.
Install fuel pressure gage.
Connect scope to watch ignition command, being on the
ground side you get to see system voltage during cranking,
as well as the computers ability to pull all the way to
ground. This step checks the ASD relay as well since power
to the DIS system is through the switched side of the ASD
relay.
Connect current probe to monitor injector on-time during
cranking.
Hook up scan tool to see parameters such as CTS, TPS, (ACT
if used) MAP, etc. I would most likely take a snapshot of
the cranking event.
I would also hook up scope lead to the fuel pump relay, to
monitor available fuel pump voltage.
All the connections for testing will take under ten minutes
to install, and from there have an assistant crank the
engine to allow you to monitor the start-up.
>History-Good customer, we haven't done much work to this
>vehicle other than a fuel pump (from Chrysler) about 1 year
>ago.
Basically irrelevant at this point. Treat this as if you
have never seen it before, even if the pump was replaced
yesterday.
>What do you want to check first? Remember, you got .3
>diagnosis so make it snappy ;-)
Plenty of time, but still worth the regular diagnostic fee.
There are possibilities that will escape the initial
diagnostics as outlined here. By knowing what they are you
have already taken the first steps towards diagnosing them too.
https://noln.net/2018/04/01/on-the-cusp-of-change-sn-0w-16-gf-6-and-more/
BTW with GDI (gasoline direct injection) systems, a priming pulse often occurs when the drivers door is opened and the dome light comes on even before the key is inserted in the ignition.
A lot has changed since I wrote that outline back in 2001. Today technicians all around the country are taught to develop and follow some type of a game plan when undertaking diagnostics. Back then I could measure fuel pump current but since I only had two, two channel scopes that was usually left for the "second round". Today that is something that would be measured during the first attempt to experience the symptom.
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive
Here is VW's new specification, a 0W20 that is thinner than GM's dexos1 2nd gen.
https://msdspds.castrol.com/bpglis/FusionPDS.nsf/Files/1FAF3A237AAB4FBB80258216004C9C07/$File/BPXE-AD8F38.pdf
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive
I buy Williams, Armstrong, a little Mac and Matco (not much, cause no dealer here), some basic Craftsman Pro tools and the Snap-on tools I buy are specialty tools that are hard to get from other sources.
Williams is made by Snap-on and 1/3 the price. The Williams 100P-8MD Screwdriver Set is about $70 versus the $140 Snap-on set and are identical to the old school (mid 90s) Snap-on screwdrivers.
Sometimes, I have to buy specialty tools and often Snap-on and OTC are the only manufacturers, so in order to have the tools to do the job, you pay the price and buy the expensive tools.
Just like air tools. I almost exclusively buy Ingersoll Rand. I have had Snap-on, Mac, Matco and Craftsman air tools and have only had good luck with the IR tools.
Although, I do have one Mac air wrench that is identical to my IR, that has lasted me 15 years so far.
In my younger years, I went through die grinders every 6 months, until I bought an IR. The IR die grinder lasted 7 years until I dropped it from a large excavator and it broke the housing.
There are many inexpensive (relatively) tools available that work find.
Snappy, Mac and Matco do not have to be the only tools purchased by techs.
Go look at an older heavy equipment tech's tools and I'd be willing to bet that half his tools are not Snappy, Mac or Matco. Why? Cause the older techs realize that wasting money on premi prems is often wasting money.
Don't get me wrong, my ratcheting screwdrivers are all Snap-on (Ok, one is Caterpillar branded, but made by Snap-on). Why? Because simply, they are the most comfortable and work the best for me.
https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/4235130/EDGE_Professional_LL_IV_FE_0W-
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive
That would even be confusing to people as they think of "10W-30" as a single designation and not a range. That is why to me, referring to the marking on the bottle as "weight", aka "the weight is 10W-30" is a fine designation that everyone understands in conversation. If the designation on the bottle "10W-30" does not have a technical name, then "weight" might as well be it now after extensive popular use as such.
That's why a 5W30 that was dexos approved was as thin as a 5W20 while a 5W30 that was LL-01 approved was thicker than an API 10W40. LL-01FE XW30 makes an equivalent grade of oil thinner than a product that could vie for dexos approval, while both are thinner than an API aproved product that does not have any other O.E. approvals. There were major changes in engine design made by the Europeans in order to go from high HTHS products to very low HTHS products.
.............. 100C Minimum...…... 100C Maximum ……... 150C
Grade 20 5.6 ……... ……. <9.3 ……....……...... >2.6
Grade 30 9.3 ………..... <12.5 …………………. >2.9 API
Grade 30 9.3 ………….. <12.5 …………………. 2.9<3.5 ACEA A1/B1, A5/B5
Grade 30 9.3 …………… <12.5 ………………… >3.5 ACEA A3/B3 A3/B4
Grade 40 12.5 .................. <16.3 ........................ >2.9 API
To put this into perspective Grades 50 and 60 are only required to be over 3.7 at 150C.
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive
I'm far from done switching brands. My goal is to own as many different brands as I can manage in my lifetime. Besides, even sticking with one brand doesn't relieve you from learning new stuff, obviously.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
And I will amend my statement and admit that I find the Stelvio Quadrifoglio oddly alluring.
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive
Whaaaatt??!! That’s not how you diagnose a problem!
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Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive
https://imgur.com/gallery/0dgJN
"thecardoc3 mentioned you in A Mechanic's Life - Tales From Under the Hood"
Seems pointless to me. I would never know is was there unless I was intentionally digging for it. In that case, I already knew it was there!
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive
"We had to replace your coils, wires, spark plugs, fuel pump, ECM, wiring harness, fuel pressure regulator, TPS, PPS and timing belt----you car starts fine, now".
Owner's conclusion: Somebody's been guessing.
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive
I have never said that mistakes don't happen and that techs never get things wrong. I have said that when something does go wrong, placing blame isn't the answer. Figuring out why it happened and training to try and prevent it from happening again is. Then when we have someone who acts like your buddy jm because he doesn't understand that break away torque can vary by as much as 50% over the initial tightening force and acts just like the people in Audra's stories (only without the gender bias) they chase good people from the bays and force the need for someone else to have to learn by experience all over again.