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Subaru Legacy: Typical high-mileage repairs?
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First, you should check out the web site that this link leads to: http://pub1.ezboard.com/fultimatesubarumessageboardsthenewgenerationofsubarus
It tends to be more "technical" than this Edmunds site and has answers to your concerns about the "piston slap" and other issues. I know that sound; mine does it, especially in winter, but it goes away once you're at operating temp. I try to drive gently until the engine is warm, and I have engine coverage for 250,000 miles under a Quaker State Lubrication Warranty. You can read about it at Quakerstate.com, but unfortunately, your car is not eligible (you can sign up with as many as 36,000 miles). The piston slap has to do with the short piston stroke or some other technical issue that I forgot; but it's not a design flaw, just an idiosyncrasy. While the engine is under warranty, it's a great idea to have a Subaru dealer perform a full computer diagnostic. Any problems (except maybe spark plug timing) will be corrected under warranty.
As far as tires/alignment: $89 isn't a great price for a Potenza RE92, which isn't a great tire. Since you bought a GT, I'm thinking you are planning to do some "Grand Touring", as opposed to an "L" model, which could mean "Lame", or the Outback, which "On Unusual Turns Becomes A Cornering Killjoy". Therefore, you may want to consider some more serious rubber. Check out tirerack.com; they have a lot of comparative data, customer reviews, etc. I chose Michelin Pilot XGT HR's, which are considered "high performance all-season" tires. I did not want "summer" tires because I need to use the ones I got in the snow as well. You're not going to get 70,000 miles from those 70,000-rated Bridgestones, and the way things are going Bridgestone/Firestone may not be around to stand behind the warranty (kidding, sort of). I also opted for BJ's wholesale, which gives FREE tire rotation. At roughly $20 per rotation at 7,000 miles, that's a $140 value over the 40,000 miles or so life of the tire.
The climate control slide knob and panel does have diodes (lights). This topic and replacement of bulbs is on that other website. Apparently, they blow out fairly often, and can be replaced if you're handy and enjoy that sort of thing. Mine still works, but I'd live with it out if it blew because I don't have the time to spend to fix it; I remember seeing that it's fairly involved. It's also covered only under 36K warranty, and will be expensive for the dealer to fix, but it's at least worth asking them.
The rear diff. may look stained from oil being added that dripped, or a mechanic removing the top plug to check the level with his finger. It could be a loose plug (top or bottom), but like I said previously, you should change that fluid anyway.
Power windows: I've found them to be slow in my three legacies (actually a good safety feature, intentional or not). Yours may last like that, or maybe the motor is dying. I had to replace the driver's motor in my '92. It was about $250 at a Subaru dealer. You can start shopping for a used one if you suspect it's dying, and save a lot on the part cost. I didn't have time; mine broke half open in January. (I did replace the a/c compressor in that car using a $200 salvage vs. the $500 new one. I don't believe that power windows are a Subaru trouble area. It'll probably work fine, albeit slow.
Finally, the RKE will unlock all doors if you hold the unlock button down an extra second or two. Pressing both buttons simultaneously will sound the panic alarm, if yours has the alarm system. Programming a new remote is very easy. It can be done in literally 30 seconds with no tools. Shame on my dealer for wanting $22 for that "service".
Enjoy your new ride.
- don't know if the timing belt was replaced at 60K, no records available. is there a cheap way to know if it has been changed other than taking it to the shop ? has anybody there gone past 90K without changing the original belt without any problems ?
- reading in on all the postings here, oil drips seems to be usual problem. mine has a very small leak where the oil dip stick is, but does'nt even leak on the ground. took it recently on a 3 hr drive with a/c on, did'nt experience any problems at all. kept opening the hood and waiting for the oil to gush out, but happily disappointed. normal drip ???
- i was also reading the postings on using synthetic oil vice regular oil, seen enough pro's and con's on both sides on different car brands. now wanted to know from subaru owners your success stories on this issue on both sides of the coin. is it too late to switch to synthetic oil, and what brand ???
- lastly, i'm stuck with the old R-12 refrigerant which i heard is expensive to refill, and hard to find (?). how do you convert to R-143A and how much ?
sorry for the long posting. see i'm in the military and live with modest means, lives on the hurricane belt and constantly planning to evacuate my family on short notice. can't afford a new car, but don't want to be stranded either, so i keep 2 used cars (94 toyota corolla) in good shape for back-up. my command said no to the humvee. any help will keep me feel safe while on watch, since i have to remain on my post if a hurricane hits. they have to go without me, either in the subaru or toyota. many thanks !!!
If the oil is leaking out the top of the dipstick, that could maen the oil was overfilled. You'll be able to tell by looking at the level on the dipstick, and if so, a little can be drained.
As far as the a/c, if it's working alright, I say leave it alone. The time to convert to R-143A is when you start losing freon. And I don't think it's too expensive when you need to do it (I think about $100).
As far as synthetic oil goes, there's no question that it is chemically better than regular oil, but the marginal difference is probably overkill for most people and there is little benefit to justify the additional cost. The oil will, technically, hold up better in all applications, but since oil serves to suspend deposits, particles and all the other garbage produced in the combustion chamber, you need to replace the oil to remove the bad stuff. You should consider synthetic if you live in an extremely cold or hot climate, tow, race, or drive at excessive speeds (90+) over long stretches. In all other cases, regular oil will protect an engine more than adequately for hundreds of thousands of miles.
Another point is that some high-mileage cars have been known to spring leaks when switching to synthetic, probably due to its faster flow and it being less viscous at cold temperatures. You also won't reverse any existing wear by switching to synthetic, so you're better off leaving your car on the diet it's used to, regular 10W-30.
I've heard of situations where a radical switch in oil will cause some of the seals around valves, pistons, etc. created by deposits to loosen, resulting in leaks. This is a likely cause of leaks as well as the faster flow properties of the synthetic oil.
When I had my '92, I noticed a tendency for it to ping on long upgrades, even though the knock sensor is supposed to correct for that automatically. I found that mid or premium grade fuel would cure the pinging and give a very slight increase in engine performance.
parts and labor: $ 300.00 but still shopping around. later !
Thanks....
For about $12, the Haynes manual is a great guide to performing your own maintenance. It's inspired me to order parts from Darlene at QSubaru and replace my own brakes and rotors, something I would have been completely scared to do previously.
I was able to get a compressor from a salvage parts dealer for $200 and had it installed by a mechanic for $100. But I knew I was selling the car soon. If I planned to keep it 3 or 4 years or more, I probably would have opted for the new one, unless I knew that the donor car was much newer (the repair isn't a bargain at $300 if it only lasts a year).Of course, you can wait until late spring, so you have lots of time to source a late-model used or rebuilt one. You'll have to find out which years use the same part as your '93 and try to get one from a newer one. Getting another 7-year-old compressor doesn't make sense, unless it's really cheap. Better still, if you know how to install yourself. This is also a good time to convert the system to the newer R-134a refrigerant instead of the extremely expensive R-12 in your car now.
1) I get a pretty crappy gas milage, about 22-23MPG on the highway. The exhaus smells clean, no unburned gas.
2) The engine redlines at about 6,500. How far can I push it without any real concern for engine damage. The manual says not to exceed 4,000, only go higher in emergencies.
3) At about 65-75 miles going on the highway, the car develops a shudder that goes away when I slow down or go beyond the listed speed. A similar message was posted on another web board and no concrete answer was posted. It does not seem to be a wheel allignment problem. Any suggestions?
Thanx
'97 SubaruGT: I have the same car (automatic).
1) I'll get 24-25 highway driving at typical speeds of 75-80. Try increasing tire PSI to 33-35.
2) Pushing to redline for short bursts shouldn't hurt it; I do it all the time when using full acceleration. The transmission will allow redline peaks before upshifts. But if this type of driving is typical for you, be extra sure to use a high-quality oil and change it frequently.
3) I had a similar problem at similar highway speeds; as expected, it went away when I bought new tires. Balancing all four wheels should solve the problem, unless you have a tire that is out-of-round or with a belt that is out of alignment. If you're still on your original Potenza RE 92's, it's probably time to change them anyway.
The tires are new and the alignment and balance are good and the problem still exists.
The secret is being willing to walk; I'm guessing they won't let you walk out with the check in hand (especially if it's certified). If it's a Subaru dealer, explain that you will be using their service department, even if you don't plan to. Be prepared to drive the car away by having a salesperson allow you to drive it home with the dealer's tags on it, and making arrangements with your insurer so that it's insured when you get it home and the dealer tag comes off. Find out what your state charges to register a vehicle before allowing the dealer to do it for you at what is often a ridiculously marked-up charge.
Finally, unless you have service records, assume no fluids have been changed and change 1) coolant, 2) brake fluid, 3) ATF fluid, 4) oil/filter, and 5) differential fluid.
I'm surprised the previous owner didn't remember what they got in trade, or maybe they just didn't want to share it with you. The bottom line is it really doesn't matter. Maybe they got a great price for their trade but paid sticker for their new car. Or maybe they got only $12,000, but bought the new car way below cost. The dealer knows what they need for the car, as well as what its market value is. If they let you leave, check in hand, you'll know they really won't go lower. You can drive around for 5 minutes, go back in, and agree to their firm price with a new set of floor mats, or the next two oil changes free, or whatever other minor thing you can get just to close the deal and feel like you got a little extra. But I don't think it will get to that point.
When I bought mine, I paid the dealer only $400 less than his asking price because I was afraid if I called his "final price" bluff it would be gone when I went back a week later. Good luck.
Frank
Pat
Community Leader/Maintenance & Repair Conference
Based on what Frank said, and what I have heard from others, a major difference in mileage seems to be related to the issue of manual vs. auto transmission. The sticks seem to get much better mileage. Could be that the auto's different power transfer system creates more friction, or the auto trans. isless efficient. Or maybe Frank just drives like a sissy (just kidding).
Try cleaning and conditioning the rubber seals around the window. Frameless windows do tend to get noisier as the rubber ages. It could also be mirror noise; try folding in the mirror just to experiment. I don't know why, but they stopped making folding mirrors in subsequent years, probably to lower costs. But they're a great mirror-saving feature if it hits something or if you park in cities.
What kind of mileage can I expect from this vehicle? I've never really looked at one before.
You may also want to check into any other Legacy topics here in Town Hall by using the Topic Search feature on the left side of the page.
This particular conference focuses on maintenance and repair issues for our members existing vehicles, rather than shopping advice.
Good luck, and welcome to Town Hall.
Pat
Community Leader/Maintenance & Repair Conference
Overall I have been very happy with the car and would definitely consider buying another.Although they are a bit pricey, even used.
I have same problem as JEI, the center differential. In fact, the last several months I have the 4wd disengaged. Dealer gave a price of $1,100. They said I might as well replace the tranny for an additional $1,100.
tranny is fine, have yet to chg tr-fluid. afraid to now!
They charged me $30 to disengage the 4wd until I decided what to do. I will likely take it to a local garage. The car doesnt drive well in 2wd.
I had 2 broken transmission mounts replaced,seems to me it was related to the center differential problem.
Other things; time belt, cv boots, serv engine light (replaced an old battery, still goes on), wheel bearings (cv related)
Happy Holidays
Thanks.
As with ANY brand or model of vehicle that you may choose to buy with 144,000 miles on the odometer, be prepared to spend $1,000 to $3,000 for repairs within the first year or two. You may not have to, but don't be surprised if you do.
To review ANY manufacturer's Technical Service Bulletins for possible weak points in vehicles, you should check out the National Highway Transportation Safety Administration's website at:
http://www.nhtsa.dot.gov/cars/problems/tsb/servicemmy1.cfm
Just type the make, model and year of the vehicle that you are researching in the right-hand box and press "Search". You can then know which areas of your chosen vehicle should be checked by your mechanic first. This may also be a good tool for reducing the price that you pay for the car.
Thanks in advance
Recently, when cruising at 45 mph and above, if i let off the gas, a loud knocking sound seems to come from under my feet, or in that general area.
it is front wheel drive (not awd.)
does anyone have any idea what this could be?
Thanks,
Mark
Let me begin by informing you that I own a 2000 Legacy GT Ltd. I bought the car in November of 1999. During the first 6 months of ownership I discovered about a dozen paint chips on my hood. They were everywhere and looked very ugly. Not knowing this was occurring to many Subaru owners I just took it to my body shop and had the hood repainted. Not one paint chip since then. This tells me it was the quality or application of the original paint and not my highway driving. The only reason I mentioned this was because someone brought it up in an earlier post.
My question is: What is the correct torque specifications for the OEM wheels?? I just had 4 new tires mounted and balanced on my car and I know they used an air ratchet to tighten the wheels. This has always been a concern of mine and I wanted to know what the correct torque figures were?? I had my rotors replaced 6 months ago under warranty so I don't want anything to contribute to this problem again.
Also, what's the best way to remove a door ding? I just got one from an SUV and almost pulled the guy out through his window. I exchanged words but he drove off after claiming he couldn't see anything. After washing my car, it was evident. Please help.
You have a 2000 GT so it may be slightly different so you may want to buy one that applies to your year/model or check your local library since they have automotive repair manuals there. Good luck.
-juice
Pretty soon you'll join the quarter million mile club! Any pix? Please share!
-juice
It should have a new timing belt, too. Given it's age, whatever you don't have records for I'd do, so that you get a baseline for future service. That would include the basic 60k service, or items like:
oil and filter change
air filter
fuel filter
Chevron Techron fuel system cleaner
PCV valve
spark plugs
spark plug wires
inspect/change all belts/hoses
rotate tires
consider balance and alignment too
distributor cap & rotor (if applicable)
radiator flush
bleed brakes, inpsect/change pads
check power steering fluid
Sounds like a long list but you could do most of them yourself.
-juice
I am new to the forum, but i need some help in choosing a Legacy Wagon 1998 or 1999 are their certain models to avoid? are their common problems i need to keep my eyes open for ? I think I want an Outback (Wagon)but I do like the Wagons that have the power Antannas what Model are those and I dunno I just need any Helpful advice in choosing a good Legacy thanks everyone .
Paul