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Subaru Legacy: Typical high-mileage repairs?

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Comments

  • gtdrivergtdriver Member Posts: 67
    ...I have the answers.
    First, you should check out the web site that this link leads to: http://pub1.ezboard.com/fultimatesubarumessageboardsthenewgenerationofsubarus
    It tends to be more "technical" than this Edmunds site and has answers to your concerns about the "piston slap" and other issues. I know that sound; mine does it, especially in winter, but it goes away once you're at operating temp. I try to drive gently until the engine is warm, and I have engine coverage for 250,000 miles under a Quaker State Lubrication Warranty. You can read about it at Quakerstate.com, but unfortunately, your car is not eligible (you can sign up with as many as 36,000 miles). The piston slap has to do with the short piston stroke or some other technical issue that I forgot; but it's not a design flaw, just an idiosyncrasy. While the engine is under warranty, it's a great idea to have a Subaru dealer perform a full computer diagnostic. Any problems (except maybe spark plug timing) will be corrected under warranty.
    As far as tires/alignment: $89 isn't a great price for a Potenza RE92, which isn't a great tire. Since you bought a GT, I'm thinking you are planning to do some "Grand Touring", as opposed to an "L" model, which could mean "Lame", or the Outback, which "On Unusual Turns Becomes A Cornering Killjoy". Therefore, you may want to consider some more serious rubber. Check out tirerack.com; they have a lot of comparative data, customer reviews, etc. I chose Michelin Pilot XGT HR's, which are considered "high performance all-season" tires. I did not want "summer" tires because I need to use the ones I got in the snow as well. You're not going to get 70,000 miles from those 70,000-rated Bridgestones, and the way things are going Bridgestone/Firestone may not be around to stand behind the warranty (kidding, sort of). I also opted for BJ's wholesale, which gives FREE tire rotation. At roughly $20 per rotation at 7,000 miles, that's a $140 value over the 40,000 miles or so life of the tire.

    The climate control slide knob and panel does have diodes (lights). This topic and replacement of bulbs is on that other website. Apparently, they blow out fairly often, and can be replaced if you're handy and enjoy that sort of thing. Mine still works, but I'd live with it out if it blew because I don't have the time to spend to fix it; I remember seeing that it's fairly involved. It's also covered only under 36K warranty, and will be expensive for the dealer to fix, but it's at least worth asking them.

    The rear diff. may look stained from oil being added that dripped, or a mechanic removing the top plug to check the level with his finger. It could be a loose plug (top or bottom), but like I said previously, you should change that fluid anyway.

    Power windows: I've found them to be slow in my three legacies (actually a good safety feature, intentional or not). Yours may last like that, or maybe the motor is dying. I had to replace the driver's motor in my '92. It was about $250 at a Subaru dealer. You can start shopping for a used one if you suspect it's dying, and save a lot on the part cost. I didn't have time; mine broke half open in January. (I did replace the a/c compressor in that car using a $200 salvage vs. the $500 new one. I don't believe that power windows are a Subaru trouble area. It'll probably work fine, albeit slow.
    Finally, the RKE will unlock all doors if you hold the unlock button down an extra second or two. Pressing both buttons simultaneously will sound the panic alarm, if yours has the alarm system. Programming a new remote is very easy. It can be done in literally 30 seconds with no tools. Shame on my dealer for wanting $22 for that "service".

    Enjoy your new ride.
  • dnuggetdnugget Member Posts: 17
    ...help! just joined in and bought a 1992 subaru legacy L sedan with 93K miles on it a month ago. I was hesitant to buy it first since I don't know much about this car, but i'm beginning to like it. just some concerns:
    - don't know if the timing belt was replaced at 60K, no records available. is there a cheap way to know if it has been changed other than taking it to the shop ? has anybody there gone past 90K without changing the original belt without any problems ?
    - reading in on all the postings here, oil drips seems to be usual problem. mine has a very small leak where the oil dip stick is, but does'nt even leak on the ground. took it recently on a 3 hr drive with a/c on, did'nt experience any problems at all. kept opening the hood and waiting for the oil to gush out, but happily disappointed. normal drip ???
    - i was also reading the postings on using synthetic oil vice regular oil, seen enough pro's and con's on both sides on different car brands. now wanted to know from subaru owners your success stories on this issue on both sides of the coin. is it too late to switch to synthetic oil, and what brand ???
    - lastly, i'm stuck with the old R-12 refrigerant which i heard is expensive to refill, and hard to find (?). how do you convert to R-143A and how much ?
    sorry for the long posting. see i'm in the military and live with modest means, lives on the hurricane belt and constantly planning to evacuate my family on short notice. can't afford a new car, but don't want to be stranded either, so i keep 2 used cars (94 toyota corolla) in good shape for back-up. my command said no to the humvee. any help will keep me feel safe while on watch, since i have to remain on my post if a hurricane hits. they have to go without me, either in the subaru or toyota. many thanks !!!
  • gtdrivergtdriver Member Posts: 67
    with 93,000 miles a few years ago. Had no drips, but had to replace the a/c compressor and the driver's power window motor. Other than those repairs, it was excellent all around. There is no way to tell if the belt has been replaced, and I've read of many high mileage (over 100,000) Legacies where the belt (or anything else) had been replaced). The good news is that I'm pretty sure that the 2.2 motor is a non-interference engine, which means no damage occurs if the belt breaks. You just tow it in and have it replaced. I paid about $200 to have it changed on the '92.
    If the oil is leaking out the top of the dipstick, that could maen the oil was overfilled. You'll be able to tell by looking at the level on the dipstick, and if so, a little can be drained.
    As far as the a/c, if it's working alright, I say leave it alone. The time to convert to R-143A is when you start losing freon. And I don't think it's too expensive when you need to do it (I think about $100).
    As far as synthetic oil goes, there's no question that it is chemically better than regular oil, but the marginal difference is probably overkill for most people and there is little benefit to justify the additional cost. The oil will, technically, hold up better in all applications, but since oil serves to suspend deposits, particles and all the other garbage produced in the combustion chamber, you need to replace the oil to remove the bad stuff. You should consider synthetic if you live in an extremely cold or hot climate, tow, race, or drive at excessive speeds (90+) over long stretches. In all other cases, regular oil will protect an engine more than adequately for hundreds of thousands of miles.
    Another point is that some high-mileage cars have been known to spring leaks when switching to synthetic, probably due to its faster flow and it being less viscous at cold temperatures. You also won't reverse any existing wear by switching to synthetic, so you're better off leaving your car on the diet it's used to, regular 10W-30.
  • dnuggetdnugget Member Posts: 17
    ...thanks for the advice gtdriver ! yeah this baby so far has been good to me, handles and drives better than my 94 corolla and body shows no rust, original paint still looks shiny. i will save some money for the timing belt to be on the safe side. my driving habits fall under extreme driving condition, short driving, repeated stop and go in a coastal town, hot and humid weather. i'll try mobil 1 first and see if i feel any engine performance improvement but if any leaks occur, i would have learned a bad lesson. As for the leak in the dipstick, i re-tightened the 2 bolts holding it and seemed to do the trick, de-greased the engine and will observe. Will update on next post when i take the car for another 3 hour drive a month from now.
  • gtdrivergtdriver Member Posts: 67
    ...engine performance; maybe extend the life of the engine in the grand scheme of things. But...
    I've heard of situations where a radical switch in oil will cause some of the seals around valves, pistons, etc. created by deposits to loosen, resulting in leaks. This is a likely cause of leaks as well as the faster flow properties of the synthetic oil.

    When I had my '92, I noticed a tendency for it to ping on long upgrades, even though the knock sensor is supposed to correct for that automatically. I found that mid or premium grade fuel would cure the pinging and give a very slight increase in engine performance.
  • ramonramon Member Posts: 825
    Do not switch to synthetics if your car has more than 40,000miles!!! Reasons as stated by gtdriver.
  • dnuggetdnugget Member Posts: 17
    ...and will stick with the conventional oil. I had the estimate on the timing belt replacement,
    parts and labor: $ 300.00 but still shopping around. later !
  • gtdrivergtdriver Member Posts: 67
    changed in my '92 at a Subaru shop for about $200 a few years back. If you figure two hours labor at $70/hour, plus the belt, you're still around or below $200. The question is whether 3 hours is a fair estimate of the time required.
  • conan5conan5 Member Posts: 3
    Has any one ever change the plugs on the H-4 engine? It's almost impossible to get your hand on the plug wires. Also, the cars has 47k--what are some things to change, inc. fuel filter, transmission fluid(5-sp, differential fluid? Also, is there a good source to obtain info on how to perform these services.

    Thanks....
  • dnuggetdnugget Member Posts: 17
    Question: Where I live, there's only one Subaru dealer but they only have a small inventory of cars, they specialize more on the domestics so I don't know what their service rating is. Would I get a quality job if I opted to go to say... Firestone or Goodyear Master Care (and others) instead of the dealer ? Like I mentioned before, I'm going to Houston 2 weeks from now and out there, there are at least several Subaru dealers. If I have the job done there, and if I developed any problems, it's 3 hours drive from where I live. Any suggestions ?
  • gtdrivergtdriver Member Posts: 67
    brake fluid and coolant; two things that can cause some really expensive repairs if allowed to corrode or become contaminated. It's a good idea to change all fluids every 30,000 miles, but if you haven't by 47,000 miles, it's still not too late. Your plugs should be OK until about 60,000 miles, and I'd change the wires then also.
    For about $12, the Haynes manual is a great guide to performing your own maintenance. It's inspired me to order parts from Darlene at QSubaru and replace my own brakes and rotors, something I would have been completely scared to do previously.
  • coolnewscoolnews Member Posts: 4
    Our beloved & faithful 93 Subaru Legacy was stolen and recovered within 24 hours. It was found over 300 miles away with the thieves still in it. Now that we have it back it has a new engine noise. Our insurance company told us to have it checked out and they would pay to have it fixed. We have been told that it is the AC bearings making the noise. The insurance appraiser says that they will not pay for the repair because it's something that would have gone on the car with normal wear and tear and couldn't be related to the theft and possible mistreatment of the vehicle (racing, prolong idling with the AC on, etc) while in their possession. First of all we live in Maine, we hardly use the AC. Secondly there are only 72,300 miles on it. Is it really possible for the AC to go so soon with so little use? We were given an estimate by the local dealership of $700 to fix it. How soon will we NEED to get this fixed, it's more than we can afford at this time.
  • gtdrivergtdriver Member Posts: 67
    Is the noise only heard when the a/c is on? I'm assuming that the $700 estimate is for replacement of the compressor. I had a '92 and the compressor failed at about 90,000 miles in late '97 (after 6 summers of heavy use). I agree that it is unlikely that the car thieves had anything to do with it; just a coincidence, I think.
    I was able to get a compressor from a salvage parts dealer for $200 and had it installed by a mechanic for $100. But I knew I was selling the car soon. If I planned to keep it 3 or 4 years or more, I probably would have opted for the new one, unless I knew that the donor car was much newer (the repair isn't a bargain at $300 if it only lasts a year).Of course, you can wait until late spring, so you have lots of time to source a late-model used or rebuilt one. You'll have to find out which years use the same part as your '93 and try to get one from a newer one. Getting another 7-year-old compressor doesn't make sense, unless it's really cheap. Better still, if you know how to install yourself. This is also a good time to convert the system to the newer R-134a refrigerant instead of the extremely expensive R-12 in your car now.
  • coolnewscoolnews Member Posts: 4
    The noise is there when the engine is running and increases when you step on the accelerator and doesn't really change when you turn the a/c on.
  • 97subarugt97subarugt Member Posts: 2
    I own a 97 Legacy GT and I have a few questions and concerns:
    1) I get a pretty crappy gas milage, about 22-23MPG on the highway. The exhaus smells clean, no unburned gas.
    2) The engine redlines at about 6,500. How far can I push it without any real concern for engine damage. The manual says not to exceed 4,000, only go higher in emergencies.
    3) At about 65-75 miles going on the highway, the car develops a shudder that goes away when I slow down or go beyond the listed speed. A similar message was posted on another web board and no concrete answer was posted. It does not seem to be a wheel allignment problem. Any suggestions?
    Thanx
  • gtdrivergtdriver Member Posts: 67
    Sorry, I don't have an answer for you; I assumed that the a/c components are dormant until it's in use. Obviously, this is not the case, unless the diagnosis you got is incorrect. If the component is active even when the a/c is not, then you will need to address the repair now before the bearings seize or burn up.

    '97 SubaruGT: I have the same car (automatic).
    1) I'll get 24-25 highway driving at typical speeds of 75-80. Try increasing tire PSI to 33-35.
    2) Pushing to redline for short bursts shouldn't hurt it; I do it all the time when using full acceleration. The transmission will allow redline peaks before upshifts. But if this type of driving is typical for you, be extra sure to use a high-quality oil and change it frequently.
    3) I had a similar problem at similar highway speeds; as expected, it went away when I bought new tires. Balancing all four wheels should solve the problem, unless you have a tire that is out-of-round or with a belt that is out of alignment. If you're still on your original Potenza RE 92's, it's probably time to change them anyway.
  • byrnsyz125byrnsyz125 Member Posts: 6
    I drive a 97 Legacy GT and I to have experienced the shutter between 65 and 75 mph. My mechanic checked his Mitchell repair software and their was a repair bulletin on that particular problem. It seems that a template has to be added to drive shaft to balance it. I have not yet had the opportunity to return my vehicle to the dealership but I only have 30k on my Sub so I think I have plenty of time.
    The tires are new and the alignment and balance are good and the problem still exists.
  • jettagirljettagirl Member Posts: 1
    I just bought one of those anomalies of the Subaru world, a FWD Legacy (where I live the snow isn't too deep and doesn't last too long). It only has 44,000 miles on it, and seems to have been babied. However, like a previous poster, I've noticed that the mileage doesn't even come close to what my old Jetta got. Granted, that was a lighter, less powerful 5-speed and this is an auto, but I'd expect a little better than just over 20mpg. Any suggestions on improving this? Other than that, it's a great car, and I think from now on I'm sticking with Subies.
  • gtdrivergtdriver Member Posts: 67
    ...that was only FWD, and it didn't get very good mileage either. The combination of automatic, 16 valves and 3,100 pounds does not equate to great mileage. I only averaged over 20 when it was only highway usage.
  • gtdrivergtdriver Member Posts: 67
    Bring in a check made out for $14,210 + tax, whatever that total is based on your sales tax rate. Explain that that will allow you the $500 for tires and alignment, and the $200 you will need for a radar detector driving a red ticket- magnet. Tell them you also suspect the car needs brakes, and you need to allow for that, unless they wish to replace the pads all around.
    The secret is being willing to walk; I'm guessing they won't let you walk out with the check in hand (especially if it's certified). If it's a Subaru dealer, explain that you will be using their service department, even if you don't plan to. Be prepared to drive the car away by having a salesperson allow you to drive it home with the dealer's tags on it, and making arrangements with your insurer so that it's insured when you get it home and the dealer tag comes off. Find out what your state charges to register a vehicle before allowing the dealer to do it for you at what is often a ridiculously marked-up charge.
    Finally, unless you have service records, assume no fluids have been changed and change 1) coolant, 2) brake fluid, 3) ATF fluid, 4) oil/filter, and 5) differential fluid.
    I'm surprised the previous owner didn't remember what they got in trade, or maybe they just didn't want to share it with you. The bottom line is it really doesn't matter. Maybe they got a great price for their trade but paid sticker for their new car. Or maybe they got only $12,000, but bought the new car way below cost. The dealer knows what they need for the car, as well as what its market value is. If they let you leave, check in hand, you'll know they really won't go lower. You can drive around for 5 minutes, go back in, and agree to their firm price with a new set of floor mats, or the next two oil changes free, or whatever other minor thing you can get just to close the deal and feel like you got a little extra. But I don't think it will get to that point.
    When I bought mine, I paid the dealer only $400 less than his asking price because I was afraid if I called his "final price" bluff it would be gone when I went back a week later. Good luck.
  • FrankMcFrankMc Member Posts: 228
    ... that is AWD 5 speed and I get 28 in town and 31 on the highway. I think 20 mpg seems low.

    Frank
  • dnuggetdnugget Member Posts: 17
    ...just got back on a 500 mile trip with my 92 Sube legacy with no problem, thank goodness. Timing belt did not snap, good thing otherwise we would have been stuck on a cold and rainy trip. I still have plans to change the timing belt probably next 2 months to be safe, would you experts out there recommend changing the water pump too even though nothing seems to be wrong with it but to save on labor cost should it break ? Also, i've read several posts stating performance improvement when using K & N air filter on legacy turbo model, but would it be beneficial for the base L model too? The only complaint I have right now is the wind noise from the driver side window, windows are shut tight and no water leak when it rains. Any comments ?
  • pat455pat455 Member Posts: 603
    There have been suggestions in our "Timing Belt Replacement" topic that you go ahead and do the water pump at the same time. Do a Topic Search (left side of this page) and check out the posts for yourself.

    Pat
    Community Leader/Maintenance & Repair Conference
  • gtdrivergtdriver Member Posts: 67
    ...to change the water pump, especially if you're doing the work. Most of the labor is done when you're there changing the T-belt, they're not very expensive, and do have a finite life. Do it and it's one less thing to worry about down the road.
    Based on what Frank said, and what I have heard from others, a major difference in mileage seems to be related to the issue of manual vs. auto transmission. The sticks seem to get much better mileage. Could be that the auto's different power transfer system creates more friction, or the auto trans. isless efficient. Or maybe Frank just drives like a sissy (just kidding).
    Try cleaning and conditioning the rubber seals around the window. Frameless windows do tend to get noisier as the rubber ages. It could also be mirror noise; try folding in the mirror just to experiment. I don't know why, but they stopped making folding mirrors in subsequent years, probably to lower costs. But they're a great mirror-saving feature if it hits something or if you park in cities.
  • 97subarugt97subarugt Member Posts: 2
    Hi guys. Thankx for the help on the previous topic. I was just curious, is it worth getting that zMax stuff for the transmission and engine that supposedly cleans the carbons out of the engine and transmission? Has anyone tried it and does it work? Is it worth spending $40 on it?
  • gtdrivergtdriver Member Posts: 67
    in your engine and tranny except the fluids recommended in your owner's manual. The only exception is Slick 50, which I have read (in an article by a reputable syndicated columnist) has excellent and superior chemical make-up compared to other similar products. It is also marketed by Pennzoil/Quaker State, which is the only company to offer a free 250,000 mile engine warranty for your car if you use their products. I have their oil warranty and it's so ironclad solid that using synthetic oil isn't an issue for me; the warranty is effective using either, as long as you have it changed by an authorized QS installer every 4,000 miles. You have to sign up within 48 months or 36,000 miles.
  • jrennisonjrennison Member Posts: 1
    I'm currently thinking about purchasing a 1990 Subaru Legacy and am wondering what kind of repairs I should be prepared to face in a high mileage car?
    What kind of mileage can I expect from this vehicle? I've never really looked at one before.
  • pat455pat455 Member Posts: 603
    If you haven't already, you can read back through the posts here to see what our members have discussed. You can also check out our Used Car Prices page for links to pricing, reviews and other data.

    You may also want to check into any other Legacy topics here in Town Hall by using the Topic Search feature on the left side of the page.

    This particular conference focuses on maintenance and repair issues for our members existing vehicles, rather than shopping advice.

    Good luck, and welcome to Town Hall.

    Pat
    Community Leader/Maintenance & Repair Conference
  • steveg13steveg13 Member Posts: 1
    I've got a problem w/a '92 DL 4X wagon. The taillights (running lights)blow their fuse instantly, but will light with activation of the switch back of the steering wheel. Can this be only a short someplace? How can I track it down? These days it is dark most of the time in Alaska...Thanks for any ideas out there.
  • legacy3legacy3 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 91 legacy turbo with 58,000 miles on it. It drives great except when I stop and let it idle, it will idle at 1100 rpms and then slowly drop down to 500 rpms and start to shake and vibrate like it is about to stall out. It just had a tune up done at a subaru dealership also. Also in cold weather, when you start it, it will idle at about 2000 rpms until it warms up. Thanks for any help out there.
  • byrnsyz125byrnsyz125 Member Posts: 6
    My first Subaru was a 90 Legacy and after a few years or so I also had the same problems. The 2000 RPM at cold weather start is your engines automatic choke until the engine is warm. (The dealership told me this.) The hesitation and rough idle that I experienced was due to the amount of dirt and gunk that had built up in my intake manifold. My mechanic cleaned it out and the problem went away for about six months or so and I noticed that it began to idle roughly again. I cleaned it out again myself and the problem went away again. This could possibly work for you but I would check with my mechanic first if I were you. I sold that subaru with 240k and it was running well. My wife and I currently own a 97 Legacy GT and plan on buying a 6 cyl Subaru one day. I hope this info helps and good luck.
  • tailwind19tailwind19 Member Posts: 6
    I have a Legacy L wagon with 135,000.
    Overall I have been very happy with the car and would definitely consider buying another.Although they are a bit pricey, even used.
    I have same problem as JEI, the center differential. In fact, the last several months I have the 4wd disengaged. Dealer gave a price of $1,100. They said I might as well replace the tranny for an additional $1,100.
    tranny is fine, have yet to chg tr-fluid. afraid to now!
    They charged me $30 to disengage the 4wd until I decided what to do. I will likely take it to a local garage. The car doesnt drive well in 2wd.
    I had 2 broken transmission mounts replaced,seems to me it was related to the center differential problem.
    Other things; time belt, cv boots, serv engine light (replaced an old battery, still goes on), wheel bearings (cv related)
    Happy Holidays
  • swilloughbyswilloughby Member Posts: 1
    I'm pulling the heads to investigate a blown head gasket or cracked head. Can I reuse the head bolts, or must they be replaced? Car has 140K & the water pump failed, causing overheating. Anyone know for sure about those head bolts? The dealers here don't seem to stock them, so maybe they just keep on re-us in' them?!
    Thanks.
  • dnuggetdnugget Member Posts: 17
    I recently noticed a grinding noise coming off the front left wheel that increases as you accelerate. Brakes were checked 4 months ago so I know its not the problem. Could it be the wheel bearing ? If somebody there has had this problem before, can you tell me what symptoms you had and how much it cost you to have it fixed ? by the way, I have a 92 Sube Legacy L. Thanks!
  • bobgailwbobgailw Member Posts: 3
    My 97 outback limited with 114,000 miles had to have the main rear seal and the front oil seal (oil pump replacement) repaired. Not a cheap job. Has anyone else with high milage subarus had to do similiar work on the oil seals?
  • scoobyasrscoobyasr Member Posts: 10
    I just gave my 93 Legacy its FIRST timing belt change at 116,000 miles. Decided not to do the water pump, my mechanic said it was a waste of money. Its nice to have an honest mechanic. The only unexpected repair I have made is CV-joints, this is a common Subaru problem. You can disengage AWD by putting the fuse in. Spending 30 bucks for something that literally takes a few seconds is outrageous. Read your owner's manual, its all in there.
  • pamelandpameland Member Posts: 2
    I saw a '91 Subaru Legacy AS I think is a good buy at $2,200 with 144,000 miles. However, I would like to know more of what to expect from a car this old in terms of maintenance, particularly the engine. It's an automatic with power doors/locks. Is there a particular problem that I should look for in this car? Thanks for any info.
  • blaneblane Member Posts: 2,017
    pameland:


    As with ANY brand or model of vehicle that you may choose to buy with 144,000 miles on the odometer, be prepared to spend $1,000 to $3,000 for repairs within the first year or two. You may not have to, but don't be surprised if you do.


    To review ANY manufacturer's Technical Service Bulletins for possible weak points in vehicles, you should check out the National Highway Transportation Safety Administration's website at:


    http://www.nhtsa.dot.gov/cars/problems/tsb/servicemmy1.cfm


    Just type the make, model and year of the vehicle that you are researching in the right-hand box and press "Search". You can then know which areas of your chosen vehicle should be checked by your mechanic first. This may also be a good tool for reducing the price that you pay for the car.

  • s1ginss1gins Member Posts: 51
    I have a 96 Legacy with 71000 miles. So I was getting a brake job at Midas (Don't bother ever going there, they have no respect for the customer and don't know much more than the basics.) and noticed a bit of gunk by the front drivers side half-shaft. I then listened more intently to the sounds fromt he car and notice a slight clicking in turns. I figure it may be a either a leak and therefore a seal is bad or the axle/half-shaft is bad. How much should this cost to get repaired and are there anyother opinions.

    Thanks in advance
  • scoobyasrscoobyasr Member Posts: 10
    My CV boot split on my `93 Legacy, which led to a clicking noise when turning that got louder and louder. It was cheaper to get a remanufactured half-shaft then replace just the boot. Cost was $150. I've noticed a lot of Subaru owners have had problems with CV joints and boots. Climb under your car and check your boots/joints yourself first.
  • markcjrmarkcjr Member Posts: 1
    Hi, i have a 88 subaru GL wagon.
    Recently, when cruising at 45 mph and above, if i let off the gas, a loud knocking sound seems to come from under my feet, or in that general area.

    it is front wheel drive (not awd.)

    does anyone have any idea what this could be?

    Thanks,
    Mark
  • nylegacynylegacy Member Posts: 4
    Hi guys..... I have one comment and question:
    Let me begin by informing you that I own a 2000 Legacy GT Ltd. I bought the car in November of 1999. During the first 6 months of ownership I discovered about a dozen paint chips on my hood. They were everywhere and looked very ugly. Not knowing this was occurring to many Subaru owners I just took it to my body shop and had the hood repainted. Not one paint chip since then. This tells me it was the quality or application of the original paint and not my highway driving. The only reason I mentioned this was because someone brought it up in an earlier post.
    My question is: What is the correct torque specifications for the OEM wheels?? I just had 4 new tires mounted and balanced on my car and I know they used an air ratchet to tighten the wheels. This has always been a concern of mine and I wanted to know what the correct torque figures were?? I had my rotors replaced 6 months ago under warranty so I don't want anything to contribute to this problem again.
    Also, what's the best way to remove a door ding? I just got one from an SUV and almost pulled the guy out through his window. I exchanged words but he drove off after claiming he couldn't see anything. After washing my car, it was evident. Please help.
  • dnuggetdnugget Member Posts: 17
    This may not totally help you but I have a Haynes manual for 1990-1998 Legacies and on Chapter 1 it states wheel lug nuts torque should be 72 Ft-lbs.
    You have a 2000 GT so it may be slightly different so you may want to buy one that applies to your year/model or check your local library since they have automotive repair manuals there. Good luck.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Sounds about right. Try 65-75 lb-ft for alloys, 75-80 lb-ft for steel wheels.

    -juice
  • pinchydelriospinchydelrios Member Posts: 8
    Hi Mark I have a 87 GL wagon with 247000 miles on it and I had the same kind of sound but only when I was making a turn. I found out it was a worn out axle shaft that needed to be replaced. The end of the axle has spines that match up in rotor/wheel and these were worn. It was a fairly easy job to do. I got some used parts from a local pull and save yard and did it myself. I figured since I bought the car for $100 I am not going to put that much $ into it. It has been a very good car though even with the high mileage but I have been having a problem with it overhearing. I have heard that these yr of cars are notorious for the heads to crack and I suspect this is what has happened to mine. I still use it to commute to work in the summertime. I work for the Forest Service in a and drive 90 miles a day on mountainous road to my station. I have to carry extra H2o to refill when it does get hot but its still good to go.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Keep it going! Man, that is sweet!

    Pretty soon you'll join the quarter million mile club! Any pix? Please share!

    -juice
  • pinchydelriospinchydelrios Member Posts: 8
    Sorry got no pictures. Thanks for comment though. Pinchydelrios.
  • kameelekameele Member Posts: 29
    I just bought a '95 Legacy L AWD sedan w/75K miles about three weeks ago. Now that I've gotten over how much better it is than the '90 Escort wagon it replaced, I have a couple of questions I hope more experienced owners might be able to help with. first, I am getting only about 20MPG after first 3 fillups in about 1/3 highway, 2/3 city/stop and go. The original EPA estimates were about 24city/28highway. Is this usual or are there things to do. Second, during highway driving I see that for the 1st 5 minutes or so, I see about 3200RPM @ 70MPH, which then drops to 2800 thereafter. Is this what the final drive should be? I couldn't find anything in the owners manual and haven't had a chance to get ahold of fancier manual. Which is better, Chiltons or Haynes? Thanks for any response and I'm glad to be back to Subaru after about 10 years.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Not sure about the rpm, but it sounds like it's not going into overdrive soon enough, so I'd at least have the ATF drained and refilled.

    It should have a new timing belt, too. Given it's age, whatever you don't have records for I'd do, so that you get a baseline for future service. That would include the basic 60k service, or items like:

    oil and filter change
    air filter
    fuel filter
    Chevron Techron fuel system cleaner
    PCV valve
    spark plugs
    spark plug wires
    inspect/change all belts/hoses
    rotate tires
    consider balance and alignment too
    distributor cap & rotor (if applicable)
    radiator flush
    bleed brakes, inpsect/change pads
    check power steering fluid

    Sounds like a long list but you could do most of them yourself.

    -juice
  • ferraro1ferraro1 Member Posts: 44
    Hello ~
    I am new to the forum, but i need some help in choosing a Legacy Wagon 1998 or 1999 are their certain models to avoid? are their common problems i need to keep my eyes open for ? I think I want an Outback (Wagon)but I do like the Wagons that have the power Antannas what Model are those and I dunno I just need any Helpful advice in choosing a good Legacy thanks everyone .
    Paul
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