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Someone please give me ideas I have spent so much on my truck took it to aamco. ford macombs west and they both said they would have me driving out of there with no problems. Ford said it was the PCN and a bunch of others stuff spent 1900 and never fixed it Aamco picked it up with a wreck because on top of that they messed up the transmission. Aamco charged 2700 for the transmission and electrical work once they saw they couldn't figure it out they said that was something they had not touched so I had to pay on top of that for them to do another diagnostic. We got this truck brand new so its hard when you know you've taken good care of it and you've been the only owner. Please any suggestions.
FNoel try checking your fuel pump driver module my 2005 expedition died one day started back up then died again I can almost guarantee that this will solve your problem i had no idea that this part even existed let alone that it was malfunctioning. I knew as soon as I took it off that this was the problem it was so corroded there were holes in it mine was behind my driver side rear wheel and u can look on YouTube on how to replace it also when I replaced it I wrapped it in plastic before bolting it on so I don't have to worry about corrosion on the new one also when u replace it check your fuses under the dash on the passenger side I blew one while I was replacing it. Hope this helps good luck
ps I kept the old one because ford should do a recall on this part it cost me a little over $100
It is a mistake to assume that what repaired one vehicle will have any correlation to another before any real testing is done. With a proper routine the operation of the fuel pump control module is very easy to confirm, it does not have to be replaced on a whim.
My symptoms were as described by others before, though I had only 4 failures total over about 3 months time. The truck would stall, twice while under full power on the freeway, which necessitated coasting to the shoulder. But then it would start right back up and act like it never happened...making you question your sanity. For me, it would work great for a few weeks before doing it again. I have a VERY good mechanic and he went though the whole rigmarole of checking the fuel system and all of the vacuum lines, finally replacing a filthy fuel filter. But it happened again just two weeks later, shattering the false sense of security.
The Sparky's post is a good guide for getting at the fuse box, though there are some details about removal that he did not mention, but they may be specific to Navigators. Getting the cover off of the battery cable connection was a bear for me. I had to do it last after I had everything else disconnected and the box freed from the body so I could twist it around to get a good look at it. There are two places where the cover clips on that are impossible to get at with adult fingers until the box is free. I wouldn't try it before that unless you have a five year old daughter with enough grip strength to crush a walnut in one hand.
Also, though there is only one bolt holding the box in place, there are two other sort of pyramid shaped posts that anchor the box to the body. These each have a horizontal, plastic tongue that goes through a square hole and then clips to the body when the box is slid toward the firewall. These will require a twisting/sliding/lifting motion to free them. They cannot just be pulled straight away from the body.
Anyway, if you have these symptoms, I would be sure you don't have the battery wire arcing on the AC pipe first, as that is easy to check. But after that, it will be well worth pulling the fuse box and checking. It will take about an hour to pull and then dis-assemble. Be sure to use your phone to take a photo of the fuses before you remove them, because they have to come out before you can pull the circuit board to see the solder joints of the relays.
Good Luck and, yes, this should DEFINITELY have been a recall!!!
I have replaced the alternator harness to eliminate the grounding issue to the AC pipe under the hood with no success as it stalled on the interstate.
These sites mentioned in the above post were EXTREMELY helpful to diagnose the problem. My fuse panel has an intermittent operating fuel pump relay that has begun melting the outer case.
Will be replacing the fuse panel. Eventhough the Expedition has performed pretty flawlessly for nearly 13 years, i am disappointed in the design of such an important function of the vehicle. Again, it was very unnerving to have the vehicle stall in heavy Interstate traffic.
Thanks to those who posted comments and pics of the panel replacement and pics of the damaged relay.
I too have a 2003 Expedition, 209000 miles. The engine stalled 9 times over 11 months; 2x waiting at a traffic light, 4x at 70MPH on the interstate, 3x at residential speeds, a couple other random times. Full fuel tank, half full tank, nearly empty tank - didn't make a difference. Fuel filter was new/replaced. Essentially an un-diagnosable problem. Until I read this forum.
The first item I checked was the wire and taped it up ("You will find it resting on a silver/aluminum tube (its an AC pipe) Flip the wire over where it is touching this pipe, you will find the wire is rubbed down to the bare metal!!! It is randomly shorting out your engine and you will STALL")
That was not the cause of my problem.
During my Thanksgiving 2015 trip the expedition stalled 9 times and would not restart and had to be towed. Fortunately.
I insisted the mechanic go straight to the inside fuse box at the passenger side of the truck. The relay was fried, from dripping / leaking water from the windshield. He also said the heater core seemed like it might have been dripping at one point as well, onto the fuse box. He gave me the old fuse box for inspection. Either way, we replaced the fuse box (put a cover of loose plastic over the fuse box). No problems for 50+ days. (as I write this it is now 1/14/16).
My 03 Eddie Bauer Expedition just started shutting off on me (three times). Tonychef's post about the wire shorting out the truck seems to be the answer to my problem. So far I have gone over 70 miles without any problems! Thanks to Tony
MY SITUATION
My Expedition stalled out on me three times:
Once on the freeway, I put it in neutral, restarted the truck immediately and then back to drive.
Again about 15 minutes later stopped at light. That time the truck would not restart quite as fast, took about 3-5 minutes.
The last time was after having the fuel filter replaced bringing the truck back home and it died on me as I was turning into my driveway. That time the truck took about 2-3 mins before it would restart.
After retaping the wire with electrical tape and moving it so it no longer rests on the AC pipe, Ive had zero problems after 70 miles of normal street and freeway driving! I'll post again if I the truck stalls out.
we checked the battery-working fine
we changed the starter relay-did not fix the problem
checked for burnt fuses- found only one burnt going to the running board lights
had the alternator checked-was working fine
still does not turn over. no sound of any kind. occasionally some interior lights will start working, but will stop if you try to crank it. we are out of ideas.
I am desperate for help here! My 04 Expedition Eddie Bauer stalls on us just like what's been described. Anytime, anyplace, any speed, no rhyme or reason. The engine will just shut off, everything electrical stays on, restarts immediately or at least within 30 sec. I have read through this entire thread of posts and nothing suggested has been the issue. Fixed the wire on the AC pipe, checked for leaking windshield, fuses look fine, fuel levels are good, and it does not produce any codes when it stalls. I have left it with a experienced trusted mechanic for over a week and it, of course, has not stalled for them. I am unwilling to spend money on expensive guesses. So if any of this fits your scenario and your problem has been solved. Please let me know!
When you say "does not produce any codes when it stalls", do you mean that no engine light came on, or that a professional scan tool did not find a stored "fault".
If there's no stored code, then you either have to wait for the code to appear permanently, or perhaps the mechanic can go about testing suspected components that he thinks might be out of spec--but that of course, is a form of guessing.
Once you've figured out which of those you are missing, you'll know in general terms why the truck isn't starting. Then you'll have to drill down into each system (spark, fuel, pulse) to see what has failed. Even wiring or bad connectors can come into play here.
BTW--you should avoid driving the truck any time you see a flashing CEL. Such a condition can easily damage the catalytic converter (s).
Hope i have helped someone in fixing their issues.
I still love my FORD.
As with many others my Expedition would randomly quit running, then start again shortly thereafter. I followed the advice from this Forum and removed the fuse box and dismantled (see You Tube) it to get to the printed circuit board within. There are 5 Osram relays soldered to the board, the middle one, as suspected, was slightly melted adjacent to the “ power in, power out” pins and the back of the board showed signs of being hot. This relay supplies power to the fuel pump and the pins are obviously the lightest part of the circuit and get hot under load, but the draw is not enough to blow a fuse.
The Osram relay, and two from other clone manufacturers, are obsolete and no longer available. I went to my local wrecking yard and removed the fuse box from another 2003 and a 2005 ($20 each). Although the 2005 box looks identical, it is different inside and cannot be used as a replacement. I dismantled the 2003 box and it showed the exact issues as my box. It too was melted, but was obviously from a running unit as it was in the yard due to a wreck, not towed in because it would not run.
I used my solder gun and my “ solder sucker” to carefully remove the 4 good relays from the wrecker box, removed the melted one from my board and replaced it with a wrecker relay. Re-assembled my box and she started right up. Keep in mind that my Expedition was running and I drove it into my garage for the repairs, the problem was intermittent.
Question: what was causing the heavy current draw on the fuel pump circuit to cause the heating at the relay pin?
Answer: the fuel pump is failing, causing a heavy draw, OR the fuel filter is plugged causing the fuel pump to work harder to provide required fuel pressure to the injection system. I removed the filter and it was plugged, not enough to stop the engine, but enough to cause the pump to require a heavy current draw. I replaced the filter BEFORE I drove the vehicle after the relay replacement.
Notes:
- replacement fuse box from Ford: $865.00 + tax in Canadian dollars ( if you can find one)
- Wrecker box: $20 (and I still have 3 replacement relays if ever required)
- Tools required to remove box:
- 10 mm socket, 6” extension or remove hot wire nut.
- 11mm DEEP socket (or pliers, ask me how I know…) to remove the one box mounting nut
- The hardest part of removing the box is removing the plastic cover over the hot wire nut. It simply snaps on, but is not designed to snap off easily. The two tabs are hard to get a grip on and need to be pulled away further than expected. I trimmed the tabs on the box before I replaced the cover to make it easier to remove again if ever required.
- When dismantling the box about 14 small “female to female / socket” pin extensions need to be removed to access the circuit board. Make note (take a photo?) of the way they are aligned. They must be replaced EXACTLY the way they were so they align correctly for the sockets to be in the correct position to accept the pins when replacing the relays removed during disassembly.
- I found YouTube videos of how to remove the box and dismantle the box, but not how to repair the box, as the fellow who dismantled the box said it could not be repaired. But it can, just requires a bit of skill and knowledge and a replacement relay.
- Be careful when removing the relays from the board, it is a fine line between liquifying the solder to “suck it” and overheating the pin and melting it in the relay
- I opened up the relay I removed, the “power in, power out” pins showed signs of heating, and the case was slightly melted, but the points were OK and it was obviously working correctly when I drove into the garage. It is a very small relay, and has tight tolerances. I suspect that the intermittent problem was caused by the relay getting hot, and slightly changing shape, causing the very small pints to open, resulting in immediate fuel pressure / supply loss. Engine quits, points are open, current stops, relay cools, points close and engine can be re-started and runs AOK until the relay gets just a little bit too hot again.
- When you remove all the fuses and relays when dismantling the box, set them aside on something out of the way in the same layout for ease in replacing.
Hope this helps.
It ended up being an intermittent electrical short to the car's frame.