Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!
Options
Popular New Cars
Popular Used Sedans
Popular Used SUVs
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
Comments
I'm getting the same thing, but mine is intermittent which, to me, indicates a computer glitch. Everything works perfectly somethimes. For me it was a $5000 quote!
I've talked to several local mechanics who spit out their coffee or choke when I tell them the repair bill! They say they can't touch the FORD ABS system. (something about needing a VERY expensive programmer to match the computer to the car ID?)
I think I've scared off at least a dozen people from buying a Ford with the story of my brake bill. I'm going to tell it to everyone I know and then some. It doesn't look like there will be a happy ending since I have contacted FORD customer complaints and they said basically:
Yeah, you have a right to be mad about that bill, but you are on your own, we aren't going to help you out one bit.
What do they think they are, therapists? I have a right to be mad? No kidding sherlock! The vehicle is only 5 years old and I have a repair bill that makes my vehicle worthless unless I pay them the $5000 repair bill so I can sell it for only a couple thousand more if I'm lucky?!?
No Way, I'll junk it instead! Or, park it on my lot on the side of the main road with a big sign on it saying "for sale...needs a $5000 brake job according to ford!"
If you get a junk yard to take yours, let me know how much you get in maine, I'll do the same here.
I'm taking it to a different ford dealer for a second oppinion tomorrow. Wish me luck.
The receipt says:
"40 ECC tested 3 codes bled brakes and reprogrammed ABS, did pinpoint test - road tested OK"
so $176 instead of potential $7K.
Lesson: if this happens to you don't accept that the master cylinder and HCU are bad. Get other opinions. Make them go back at it.
Hopefully the fix will last me!
It seems like this regenerative brake thing is just too dang complex and reliant on computers. It is a scary feeling to know that you are at the mercy of Ford dealers for this rather than local mechanics.
thanks,
Will
There is more on this and shop manuals here: http://www.escape-city.com/viewtopic.php?f=38&t=11675
Ford didn't want a recall or any negative publicity about their hybrids (the Mercury has the same issue) since times were tough in the auto industry. You can read the history of my posts on this site, but it provides no consolation. I tell everyone Ford hybrids are no good, but gee they made billions last year. This is my last Ford. How about a little class action?
I agree with those who say that a class-action suit is appropriate. Better now than after someone is killed.
In the meantime, I am taking my case to the Bureau of Automotive Repair of the California Department of Consumer Affairs.
No. The battery has to be working for the vehicle to move.
Second....Siezed/stuck brake caliper piston at 187,000 should be considered a normal failure.
The calipers should have been inspected/replaced/rebuilt at that initial brake service.
Lastly..."your shop" began a brake fluid proceedure without knowing, or knowing how, to completely bleed a system as complex as is the FEH.
I think our point here is to learn about this problem and how to deal with it without getting in an accident or getting ripped off.
What is your point?
ABS Control Module/Pump
Assm; Hybrid, 4WD
Fits: 2006 Ford Escape
assembly; Hybrid, 4WD
I checked Motorcraft website that shows the price at $3125. The dealer quoted 3,700 plus 400 to install.
Can a used one work?
What prices are you being quoted for the part?
I plan on selling this car within the month. Dont really want to put a lot more into this POS.
thanks!
Look to "what changed"....
I have started the escalation process.
"B" mode also?
I don't know about "severe" shaking, but if you are in "L" going down hill, the battery will max out at about 66% SOC. After that point, the FEH will use the engine to brake, which can be pretty loud. Next time, shift back to "D" and see if the shaking goes away. But on my 2008, the only thing that happens is I hear the engine. If there is shaking, something may be wrong under the hood.
Really? Since you never owned an FEH, how do you know what Ford EBD feels like?
As an owner, I can say that I have never had any such feeling from my 2008 FEH.
I normally make sure to ignore wwest when he trolls other forums for vehicles he has never owned. But I had to clear up misinformation.
Never said I did, "might be" is in no way a definitive team.
And why would you assume, suppose, that Ford's implementation of EBD would differ significantly than others?
On the other hand since the FEH must "contend" with three separate braking modes (front ONLY [regen], combined [regen front, frictional front/rear], and frictional only) I would suspect that activation of EBD might even more pronounced, noticeable vs my RX300.
Yesterday, I jacked up our 2007 Merc Mariner 4X4 HYBRID SUV in the garage and inspected the underneath and removed all 4 wheels and inspected disc brakes on all four axles.
We began operating this vehicle in October of 2006. It now has reached 90,000 miles on odometer. All the original disc brake pads linings are in good shape and I'll wager that there is still a good 25K - 30K miles left in them. The rotors look fine IMO...not brand new looking...but not badly grooved or pitted, warpo'ed, etc.
Nothing else was out of order...
This is my 2nd brake inspection on the vehicle. 1st one was at 65K miles.
Recently the check brakes and check 4x4 lights both came on and it had a shudder on some slow turns and occasional shudder when I braked. I took it to my local mechanic.
They said it needed a tone ring - no biggie. When they had it apart, they called to say it needed disks and tie rods. OK.
But, once they put it back together, no brakes.
Now they say that the ABS Brake pump was what was making the mysterious noise (they heard it too) and that it must have been running too often and now it has died. Along with the sensor/module thingy that's mounted on it.
They say I need a new one, maybe I should look for a used one and they're afraid to mess with it so I should probably get it towed to a dealer. Oh, and the part is going to cost about $3,500. More than 1/2 the amount that I paid for the car.
Can the pump coincidentally have died just when they messed with the system? Could they maybe not have put something back together correctly? Can it be tested? Can I find a used one? Any suggestions?
THANKS!! I don't know if its worth it to buy a new pump but if someone can come up with a $100 fix, it's surely worth it!!
It may not be relevant , but it was owned by a park system shortly before I bought it - there's evidence of a roof mounted light, a radio in the dash and other electrical systems askew (some dangling unattached under the hood.)
This thread was very helpful for me, so I want to share my experience with other owners. I have a 2008 Escape Hybrid FWD
Got the ABS and Break warning lights, with "Check Brake System" and Regen Brakes Disabled" message. Codes:
U0418-FF, C1478-A0, C1480-A0, U2023-A0
Cleared the codes twice, immediately came back. I could hear a rough noise (it seemed like coming from the HCU) before the warning lights came up both times.
Dealer #1 quoted the "standard" $5k to replace the HCU ($4700 the HCU alone)
Dealer #2 in Leesburg, VA, replaced the front brake lines and fixed it (they warned before that this does not work 100% of the time and HCU could still be needed, but it was worth the risk to me). Brakes pads and rotors were almost due for replacement so I asked them to replace those as well. Total $930. So far so good (cross fingers). These fine mechanics have a new customer.
I was ready to junk this car , now it seems it will last a little longer.
TWO MORE TIPS for owners of this SUV:
1) Intermittent ABS system kicking in: Check for cracked tone rings. Happened twice, the first time the dealer could not figure out even after 3 visits (Dealer #3) until I pointed it out, having learned from another thread. $300 to replace a $15 ring.
2) Hybrid battery error . Code:
P0A1F: - Battery Energy Control Module
I was getting an error and the hybrid system was deactivating itself.
This one was cleared by luck. I parked the car and didn't move it for about 5 weeks (I was traveling). When I tried to start the car it wouldn't. I tried a jump start and did the hybrid battery recovery procedure with the hidden button on the left of the instrument panel.
Problem gone. This alarm can be caused by the difference between lower and highest cell voltages exceeding a certain threshold. My theory is that the discharge "evened out" the cells and the alarm cleared. Not sure, and not sure how to purposely discharge the hybrid battery, but this was a year ago and haven't seen the alarm again.
Thanks!
I purchased one of these, it had every code everyone on here complains about before they run to ford and get taken for $5000. I did some research, found the VCMII on ebay from china that even comes with a cracked version of IDS. I reset the fault codes with this tool, drove the car, only got a fault code for a wheel speed sensor. Replaced the sensor, the fault codes were still there. Ran these two tests I mentioned earlier, and wouldn't you know, I have my brakes back.