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and after cant go over 45 miles a hr
http://alldatadiy.com/?affiliate_id=93770&click_id=1970479346 The problem, or a problem, some of the problem? For $300 they did more than just check codes. Checking codes is a starting point but has very little to do with random failure diagnostics. In your posts you mentioned that you think the code was P1862 which while that code specifically does not show in Mitchell on Demand for your model, it is in the group of codes associated to transmission/transfer case and there are several of them that could result from a loss of power to those control circuits so you are probably off a digit or two but close enough to try and get a picture of what was going on. At $300 they had their tech spend two to three hours and pulled the plug after that. Here is where this really all goes sideways. Flat rate techs only get paid a percentage of what you are charged. Figuring the gas used amounted to some 6 gallons, that's 130 miles. Allowing for some of that on the highway as well as dealing with traffic and knowing just what it would really take to get the car to act up and perform voltage drop testing during the failure that easily took all day, a full eight hours. That can only mean the tech didn't get paid for his/her time to solve this for you. BTDT way too many times to count. Most of the time stuff like this gets spread across a few days while the tech does other work to try and still earn a paycheck for that week. But the end result is what is free to you from that dealer wasn't actually free because the tech and his/her family became the ones to pay for it.
At a loss and can't afford to play replace this and that until it is figured out. Any suggestions???
Thanks
Has anyone in St. Louis area had any success with a certain dealer fixing this problem?
I just purchased a 2010 Chevy Traverse LT2 AWD, at the end of July 2017, from a dealership. It looked like, and drove like a brand new car.
A week later, I left the radio on while doing some yard work, and the battery died. I figured all I had to do was jump the battery and everything would be fine. I jump the battery, and the car was back to normal, so I thought.
For the following few days, I noticed my Traverse was shifting hard, and at a higher RPM than normal. On the third day, my engine light came on. I went to a local garage up the road, and though the engine light was on, there was no code, so they reset the engine light, and I was good to go, so I thought.
The car still shifted hard and it just wasn't running right. But, everyone kept telling me that it was all in my head. Well, 2 days before Thanksgiving, I was driving down the road, and my DCM displayed " traction control off, service traction control." Followed by " service Stabilitrak". After about a mile, it displayed " engine power is reduced". I was now in limp mode. Then the front of the car under the hood, started making some funny rumbling noises, so I pulled over. I tried restoring settings the factory. I shut the car off for a couple minutes, and started it again period before taking off, I restore the settings back to factory one more time. I was able to drive the 25-minute ride back to my house with no problems.
After 58 miles, the same thing happened again. So I followed the same process with restoring the settings back to factory, and was all set. Then it happened again after another 50 miles. My husband and I started looking at the forum's, and saw that a lot of people had to replace the throttle body in order for it to stop happening. My husband is very mechanically inclined, so he took a look at the throttle body, it had so much carbon buildup around the outside, that my husband was in shock. So he spent about an hour cleaning what he could, without disturbing the unit. Once he did that, I was able to drive another 400 miles with no problems. The car still wasn't driving the way it was driving when I left the dealership in July.
I came across an article about this issue. The article stated that if your battery has ever been disconnected, or has died, or you replace the throttle body unit, in the Chevy Traverse, you must do a throttle body relearn process. The reason being, is because if the battery dies/or is disconnected, the throttle body will not remember it's home idle position. It also has no memory whatsoever. It will open and close much more, making it work harder, makking the car drive hard, shift at a high RPM, and causes massive carbon buildup around the unit , causing issues. That's why the DCM messages came on for the traction control, Stabilitrak and engine reduction power. Had I did the relearn process back in August, when I accidentally killed the battery, none of these issues would have happened.
To prove that this was the case, we cleaned the carbon buildup from around the outside of the throttle body unit, because once again it was really bad. We disconnected the battery, reconnected the battery, and did a relearn process ourselves. The dealership wanted to charge us close to $500 for the relearn process. The relearn process is only four simple steps. You start the car, let it idle for 60 seconds, then you drive at speeds of 45 miles per hour or higher, while going through stages of acceleration in de-acceleration for about 10 minutes. Then you park the car, let it idle another 60 seconds, and that is it. IT WORKED!! No engine light, Shifting the way it should, driving again like a brand new car. It has now been 448 miles, no issues whatsoever. We have also taken a look at the outside of the throttle body unit, and no carbon buildup at all. Before going to the dealership, and getting rooked into all sorts of different repairs to fix the problem, I suggest you try this also.
We had called GM and Chevrolet, and it was the biggest waste of time. They will not help if the car is over 120,000 miles, and if you did not purchase the extra warranty coverage when you bought the vehicle. Even if you get a claim/case number, it will do you no good. I suggest trying what we tried.
Good luck!!
What do the freeze frame and failure records show the APP sensor voltages at when the code sets?
How long does the car have to be driven to encounter the symptom? How likely is it to occur on any one trip?
If it is not likely to occur to just about every time the car is used, how much time goes by between events? Are there any other details about the failure that could assist a technician in getting the fault to occur? (temperature, weather, duration of trip)
I feel I need to post a comment in my solution since I have got useful info from this site more than a few times.
I work at a high volume tranny shop, we do rebuilds for many independent shops and a few dealers and used car lots. Electrical problems are the worst! Everyone hates tracing and testing wires, switches, solenoids, grounds, etc. Luckily, these Chevys aren’t as bad as a lot of euros that have cheap cracking wires everywhere, ie bmw, mini, Audi etc.
anyway, on to my solution:
car came from the dealer, they couldn’t figure it out, it had the traction control problem like everyone else and would barely move. The trans was fully tested and looked good, so we knew it had to be an electric gremlin or a computer. Fuse for the TCM blew on contact, sometimes would hold for a few mins at most, so the scanner would only show “no communication with tcm”. Started inspecting wires and grounds, 15 mins later, I found the TCM harness melted by the exhaust manifold due to a poor job at routing wires either by the factory or previous technician, one harness holder was broken and not holding the wires up. So I peeled away the loom and saw the harness fused together into one big mess inside the loom. Took it all apart, cleaned it up, put new insulators on and put on the loom, taped it up. Wallah! Fuse goes in without blowing, car drives very nice even with 160,000 miles. And the dealer wanted to charge $6500 for a transmission.
This was the solution to my problem, hopefully it helps someone out. I know a lot of these display the same symptoms but have very different problems
http://www.ctionline.com/index.php/catalog-internal.html
http://www.ctionline.com/index.php/cti-instructor-led-class-schedule.html
One of the routines that we use for a fuse failing like that is to use jumper wires to attach a headlight in place of the fuse and then measure the current that is flowing in the circuit with a low amps current probe. By installing the headlight at the fuse location, it controls the current flowing in the circuit and the "short" simply becomes a switch that is turning the light on.Then all you need to do is access different parts of the circuit to see if you can see the current flowing or not. If you can then the failure is further downstream, if not then it is back towards the fuse. It does always help when you can find visual damage as you did this time, but having a routine ready to apply when there is nothing visual makes the job a lot easier.
REDUCED ENGINE POWER, SERVICE STABILITYTRAC, SERVICE TRACTION CONTROL. We will be cruising down the road at 75mph and BAM, we are now limping along at 35MPH in traffic with semis. I understand that this is meant to not do more damage to the vehicles motor, however this is ABSURD that it is still an issue. I have read through so many online threads and I need to know,
Has anyone actually figured this out? I see some guys saying how it is not a real issue because it could be different issues with each vehicle, I beg to differ. there is an obvious pattern here.
Any thoughts? My wife loves the car, but I am sick of sticking money into something that is such a dangerous pile.
thanks
If you have the tools, skills and training I can lead you through diagnosing this issue. The first step is to pull codes from every module on the car, and the second step is to capture a data recording from the PCM just before, during and immeadiately after one of the failure events. I'll tell you what the next steps are if you can get that information and post it.
The codes each time were for random misfire detected. this is after it slowed us way down.
the last time this happened, it shut off the car at 35MPH these were the codes:
C0561 C0242 P216A P126D P0300 P2101 P0606 P0014
http://www.iatn.net/
and click on "repair shops" to see if there is one in your area. These technicians are among the very best trained and should be able to repair this problem for you.
The problem, of course, is that the issue is intermittent, and very often diagnostic equipment needs to be in place while the incident is happening. Most dealerships or repair shops are not going to pay a mechanic to drive around all day, or for many days, with their scanners hooked up to the car--but sometimes, that's exactly what it takes to nail the problem.
Sometimes the car has to fail completely for the problem to be positively identified. But an initial scan and diagnosis by a well-trained mechanic might turn up some likely suspects and might even identify the problem right off the bat.
If it's a "misfire" than the dealership should be able to track that down, even "random misfire". A car is a closed universe--it's not as if "random" means "infinite".
The the problem is that it might indeed require that the dealer techs drive the car around for a while, and of course the dealership is not going to pay the techs to do that, and the techs certainly don't want to do it for free.
The first time I was in a restaurant drive thru but sitting idle. Then several warnings flashed on my dash about traction control and stabilitrak and limp mode and it started to stink. We towed it to our mechanic and he could not tell what code was initiating the issue so he cleared the codes and it ran fine after that. After a couple additional trips to the mechanic, we did have a couple issues seemingly related and he ended up replacing a coil and all the spark plugs.
Now, a few months later, my wife was driving up the road to our house and just before turning into our driveway, the same error messages came up on the dash. She turned off the car and called me. When I got home I started the car and got the same results. We had the car towed to our mechanic again. This time when the tow truck arrived, the car did not start. After it arrived at our mechanic, he could not start it, and he could only read one code and it said nondefining code and he could not determine what the problem is. He then cleared the code and it is running fine again.
I am VERY concerned this is going to happen on the highway with my wife driving and she will be seriously hurt. I am shockingly surprised at so many other similar incidents and NOTHING is being done by Chevrolet. I will most likely trade mine for a NON-Chevy product and I will N OT EVER by another Chevy.
The check engine light has been on for two years in my Traverse and my local mechanic doesn't know why. for about the same amount of time, when filling the tank we have to turn all electronics off and then after the fill we have to pump the gas pedal and coax it into starting. Again, local mechanic doesn't know what to do that won't cost a fortune, so advised to continue driving if what we do works. For the last month or so the stabilitrak warning light has come on periodically and then the reduced engine power light also comes on. This happens when it is really cold. At first nothing else happened, but the last three times we did lose power. I went down to 40mph while driving on the interstate and then at 21 below last night we couldn't go over 10-15 mph. After turning the car off for a while it normally re-sets which it did last night and we finally made it home. I am taking the advice of a previous forum member and will call chevy tomorrow for a file number and then GM to complain. I also need to get from them the name of an auto repair shop in our small area that can get to the bottom of these issues directly without trying numerous things first that will cost me an arm and a leg.
Try this website, and click on "repair shops" to see if there is one in your area. The people on this website are among the best-trained in the country.
http://www.iatn.net/
Good luck with solving this!
Bought this car after extensive research and NEVER came across this issue.
A little more than a week ago my daughter (new driver) was driving and directly after remote starting the car and getting in, (we live in WI and it is -1 degree here), the car started displaying the Service Stabilitrak, Traction Control Off, Engine Power is Reduced Message. It also showed the parking assist off message, which is odd as I do not believe this version of the Traverse comes with parking assist. The check engine light went on. We did not experience a reduction in power on our way home. Left the car in the garage overnight. Next morning the codes and check engine light were gone until this past Saturday- 1-19-19- (exactly a week from first incidence). Left the car until today and called my local mechanic. Have owned the car less than 2 years and now has 68K miles on it. It was a CPO Chevrolet purchase. "Luckily" the car started displaying all the same codes as I drove to my local mechanic - Service Stabilitrak, Traction Control Off, Service Traction Control, Engine Power is Reduced and a new one - Speed Limited to 25 mph. The idiot lights for the engine the car skidding came on and stayed on. Did not turn car off as I arrived at my mechanic with a top speed of 22 mph. Asked them politely if they could run a diagnostic for codes which they did (very nice of them!) and came up with something with the accelerator and communication with the car. Hoping for the best but am very concerned as at least one other post indicated that they had this issue, but it did not resolve the problem.
I will repost once I get the car back. This severely impacts our life, like many others. Just thought I would add to this thread as it seems these issues started on cars in 2007, which would be 12 years worth of issues...granted 2019 is just under way....no joy in Mudville here.
Received our car back today (see 1-21-19) and turned out that the accelerator pedal assembly and electrical connector needed replacing. Drove home on the expressway and have to say that the car seemed smoother than it has in awhile. (Maybe that is wishful thinking!?)
If I am reading my paperwork correctly, I believe the actual error was CEL, reduced power P2138 accelerator pedal position issue.
Glad we did the repair because we are expecting up to 8" of snow starting in the next hour.
Will post again if needed, really hoping not.
p.s. I will add this, I believe this same contributor above recommended a site that then listed garages that could handle a fix like this, although we did not go to one of those, I will say that a garage we used for years was listed and that we were always impressed with that garage. We moved on, life, etc. and thus why we do not go there anymore, but would go back if I did not like my current local mechanic so much. Thanks for the replies and recommendations.
Hope any/all of the above can help someone else.