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What Car is Right For Me? Help Me Choose!

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Comments

  • Vbp1Vbp1 Posts: 9
    Hello, I need an honest opinion/comparison on my next car purchase.
    I currently drive 2010 Subaru Forester premium. I plan to upgrade this year or , at very least , begining of next year.
    My 2 main choices are:
    A 2020 Forester Sport
    OR
    A 2020 RAV4 hybrid LE.
    The price wise they are almost the same
    But I can not make a desicion between.
    I like Subaru, my 2010 has been almost bulletproof for all 10 years and 158k miles. It is still in a decent shape but as a 10yo car it starting to become not as reliable as I prefere. I drive over 80miles a day so want a Little better reliability , otherwise I would keep it for another 5 or so years.
    A straight comparison put my 2 choices almost head to head but...
    Toyota has 2 main things going for it.
    1. A better mileage , as I am looking for hybrid
    2. The dealership and service department is very close to my home. Much easier maintanace and services.

    My Subaru dealer is about 15-20 min away so scheduling service and such is more hustle.
    But Forester has better visibility over all and much bigger doors to get in/out
    More headroom.
    And higher clearance as well, not that I do much off-roading, but even in town I find better clearance helps on occasion.
    So give me your take on this.

    Thanks.
  • texasestexases Posts: 9,355
    I'll be looking at those two in a year or so, along with the CX-5. Right now I'm leaning towards the Rav4, I currently drive a hybrid, and even though gas prices are low I like the low gas cost and great range between fillups. You're driving lots of miles, so that's another reason to go for the hybrid.

    But a long test drive is needed in both, to see if each is comfortable for you.
  • kyfdxkyfdx Posts: 171,709
    Just a thought... if most of your commute is highway, are you really saving that much with the Hybrid?
    Seems the biggest advantage of hybrids is in city driving.

    Did you get a good deal? Be sure to come back and share!

    Edmunds Moderator

  • Vbp1Vbp1 Posts: 9
    No kyfdx, you are thinking in terms of older hybrids. New ones are more about mpg rather than only ev range .
    I'm older hybrids it was like you had a battery and how long you can drive in ev mode before switching to ICE.
    New hybrids are always5 drive in ev mode or a combination ice+ev
    At least Toyota hybrids.
    That is latest RAV4 always AWD. The ice provides boost to the electric motor in front and power to electric motor in the back. Totally different setup comparing to hybrids 10 years ago.
    Even with ice it still gets 40+ mpg
    And the new prime trim rated at 90+ mpg
    But it is too costly for me.

    Texesas, I test drove Forester. I had a loaner for 2 days. It does not difer much from my current 2010. A bit roomier, and has a bunch of new safety features which I like, but over all not that different.
    Now RAV4 I still need to do test drive but I will do this closer to then I am ready to buy of course.
  • benjaminhbenjaminh Posts: 5,284
    Vbp1 said:

    No kyfdx, you are thinking in terms of older hybrids. New ones are more about mpg rather than only ev range .
    I'm older hybrids it was like you had a battery and how long you can drive in ev mode before switching to ICE.
    New hybrids are always5 drive in ev mode or a combination ice+ev
    At least Toyota hybrids.
    That is latest RAV4 always AWD. The ice provides boost to the electric motor in front and power to electric motor in the back. Totally different setup comparing to hybrids 10 years ago.
    Even with ice it still gets 40+ mpg
    And the new prime trim rated at 90+ mpg
    But it is too costly for me.

    Texesas, I test drove Forester. I had a loaner for 2 days. It does not difer much from my current 2010. A bit roomier, and has a bunch of new safety features which I like, but over all not that different.
    Now RAV4 I still need to do test drive but I will do this closer to then I am ready to buy of course.

    Have you also considered the new CR-V hybrid?
    2018 Acura TLX 2.4 Tech 4WS (mine), 2018 Honda CR-V EX AWD (wife's)
  • texasestexases Posts: 9,355
    Latest Consumer Reports has a preliminary test of the CR-V hybrid, they were ok with it, but complained about slow acceleration from a stop.

    I'm personally not a fan of Honda hybrids, they've had problems with them over the years. Maybe they got it right, now?
  • Vbp1Vbp1 Posts: 9
    I looked at CR-V but point by point CR-V gives me nothing over Subaru.
    The dealership is not overly convinient.
    It closer, a little, but not very convenient to get to as Toyota.
    Mileage is less than Toyota
    Warranty is also less.
    So no much of an advantage.
    Price wise it is only a few hundreds less so no help there.

    I think the desicion is between Toyota and Subaru unless something changes.

  • kyfdxkyfdx Posts: 171,709
    2020 Rav4 hybrid: 41 city/ 38 hwy
    2020 Rav4 Gas: 26 city/ 35 hwy

    That's what I meant by the hybrid not being that big of an advantage in highway mileage. 3 MPG.

    Those are the official EPA estimates.

    55 gallon difference for every 25K miles.
    $10/mo. in fuel cost savings.

    Did you get a good deal? Be sure to come back and share!

    Edmunds Moderator

  • texasestexases Posts: 9,355
    I don't see it as an economic purchase. The hybrid version of the Rav4 is faster and smoother than the regular one, according to the reviews/tests, in addition to less gas and better range. I don't look for a return on the electronics on my cars, for example. Also, I bet some of the OP's commute will be more stop and go ('city') than 'highway'.
  • Vbp1Vbp1 Posts: 9
    Well the new Forester has same specs
    If am not going hybrid , I might as well stay with Subaru.
    And price wise, the ice RAV4 AWD
    Is only 1k less than hybrid.
    I might as well get the benefits of hybrid for that 1k.
  • texasestexases Posts: 9,355
    I meant that it's not a purchase controlled by the economics - other factors are important to me. If gas prices go up, it could be economic, too.
  • Vbp1Vbp1 Posts: 9
    texases said:

    I don't see it as an economic purchase. The hybrid version of the Rav4 is faster and smoother than the regular one, according to the reviews/tests, in addition to less gas and better range. I don't look for a return on the electronics on my cars, for example. Also, I bet some of the OP's commute will be more stop and go ('city') than 'highway'.

    In fact most of my commute is highway.
    Very Little City driving except on weekend's.
    I am driving from Bergen county to Warren county. 30 miles on GSP and 10 on rt78. One way. Adjust a few miles here and there.
  • mcdawggmcdawgg Posts: 1,696
    Vbp1 said:

    Hello, I need an honest opinion/comparison on my next car purchase.
    I currently drive 2010 Subaru Forester premium. I plan to upgrade this year or , at very least , begining of next year.
    My 2 main choices are:
    A 2020 Forester Sport
    OR
    A 2020 RAV4 hybrid LE.
    The price wise they are almost the same
    But I can not make a desicion between.
    I like Subaru, my 2010 has been almost bulletproof for all 10 years and 158k miles. It is still in a decent shape but as a 10yo car it starting to become not as reliable as I prefere. I drive over 80miles a day so want a Little better reliability , otherwise I would keep it for another 5 or so years.
    A straight comparison put my 2 choices almost head to head but...
    Toyota has 2 main things going for it.
    1. A better mileage , as I am looking for hybrid
    2. The dealership and service department is very close to my home. Much easier maintanace and services.

    My Subaru dealer is about 15-20 min away so scheduling service and such is more hustle.
    But Forester has better visibility over all and much bigger doors to get in/out
    More headroom.
    And higher clearance as well, not that I do much off-roading, but even in town I find better clearance helps on occasion.
    So give me your take on this.

    Thanks.

    Toyota's long-term reliability ratings are better than Subaru, Honda, etc.
  • walt501walt501 Posts: 18
    Buy American, Ford and GM ONLY!!! And no, it doesn't matter where they're made, the PROFITS STAY IN AMERICA!
  • qbrozenqbrozen Posts: 28,312
    walt501 said:

    Buy American, Ford and GM ONLY!!! And no, it doesn't matter where they're made, the PROFITS STAY IN AMERICA!

    What do you think a company does with the money it makes?

    '07 ML63, '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '14 Town&Country Limited; '18 BMW X2. 52-car history and counting!

  • Vbp1Vbp1 Posts: 9
    Sorry walt501 , but I simply can not afford that. I would love to buy American only. And when I can I do, but no American made SUV of the same class and price range last as long as suby or Toyota.
    Imperically evident buy numerouse issues encountared by many of my friends and colleagues over the years.
  • mcdawggmcdawgg Posts: 1,696
    walt501 said:

    Buy American, Ford and GM ONLY!!! And no, it doesn't matter where they're made, the PROFITS STAY IN AMERICA!

    Toyota's stock symbol on the New York Stock Exchange is TM.
  • HiramHiram Posts: 6
    edited July 14
    My 2017 Jetta GLI lease will be ending November 2020.
    Payoff amount as of today is $17,314.80

    Per Edmunds.com Dealer retail value is $18,381 Private party $15,757 Trade in value $13,351

    My monthly payments are $406 and I’m comfortable with that.

    Here’s the order of what I would LIKE to do:
    1. Used Golf R
    2. Used GTI
    3. New Jetta GL
    4. Atlas
    5. Keep the Jetta

    I feel like the best thing would be to keep the Jetta.

    Like I mentioned, I’m comfortable with my $406 payments, but would love to pay less. It will probably be difficult to get a lower car payment without putting a good down payment.

    Another note, I am already over miles. I have 39,xxx...my commute is 50 miles a day round trip. I should decide soon, so I know if I should purchase more miles at a lower rate.

    Suggestions?
    Thanks
  • qbrozenqbrozen Posts: 28,312
    Hiram said:

    My 2017 Jetta GLI lease will be ending November 2020.
    Payoff amount as of today is $17,314.80

    Per Edmunds.com Dealer retail value is $18,381 Private party $15,757 Trade in value $13,351

    My monthly payments are $406 and I’m comfortable with that.

    Here’s the order of what I would LIKE to do:
    1. Used Golf R
    2. Used GTI
    3. New Jetta GL
    4. Atlas
    5. Keep the Jetta

    I feel like the best thing would be to keep the Jetta.

    Like I mentioned, I’m comfortable with my $406 payments, but would love to pay less. It will probably be difficult to get a lower car payment without putting a good down payment.

    Another note, I am already over miles. I have 39,xxx...my commute is 50 miles a day round trip. I should decide soon, so I know if I should purchase more miles at a lower rate.

    Suggestions?
    Thanks

    $400/mo for a Jetta is nuts. I pay less than that for a $42k vehicle.
    How many miles was your original term? Current trade is $15k-$15,250, so edmunds isn't too far off. That would put fair retail at about $17.5k-$18k. In other words, your payoff isn't anything great. It is just about right.

    Here is the rub, finance that $17k over 48 mos and you'll be right there at that $400 number, BUT you'll be paying for a used car soon to be out of warranty, not to mention having essentially financed the car over 7 years.

    Do some research on leases (read leashackr ... google it), and get yourself into another lease with 15k/yr for quite a bit less ... and don't put anything down!

    '07 ML63, '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '14 Town&Country Limited; '18 BMW X2. 52-car history and counting!

  • HiramHiram Posts: 6
    Yes, $400 for a car that much isn’t the best, nothing I can do about that now.

    36k miles for my original term.

    I know I’m not in a good position, that’s why I came here...
  • qbrozenqbrozen Posts: 28,312
    Buying miles is usually cheaper, BTW. For example, your current payment of $400/mo for 1k miles per month is 40 cents per mile. If the extra miles cost you 25 cents each, you are making out.

    You could look to see the current deals and if you could swap early. Unfortunately, your excess miles, remaining payments, and termination fee would add approx $80/mo to the next lease. But I suppose maybe that looks better than the $650/mo or so over the next 4 mos to cover your current payment plus miles. It is a close call, depending how you look at it.

    You might want to see what Carvana and Vroom would pay for it. POSSIBLY, if you get a strong offer from one of them, you could get out now for under $2k out of pocket, which would be your cheapest overall solution.

    '07 ML63, '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '14 Town&Country Limited; '18 BMW X2. 52-car history and counting!

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