Chronic Car Buyers Anonymous

stickguy · October 2020

qbrozen said:
Oh boy. Service advisor called this eve. They have a laundry lost of things, most should be undef warranty. He is going to call in morn for approval. I couldn’t hear him clearly because he caught me in the car, but I heard control arms bushings, timing cover leak, some kind of steering leak, and some kind of coolant leak, I believe. As for the electrical gremlins that I thought was likely all one connector since they started at the same time, they say are 3 different things. Some kind of speed sensor in the steering wheel for the cruise, the seat control switch, and the passenger seat belt.

I am doubting control arm bushings would be covered but he seems to think so. The one thing on his list not covered were brakes. He quoted me $900, to which I said I’d take care of those myself.

69,400 miles, for those curious. I’m anxious to see the receipt. Could very well be this is the trip that makes the warranty worth it. My son was asking about the warranty. I tried to explain it but he can’t comprehend what “lifetime” means for a car. Lol.

ouch. Sounds like a list from the Car Wizard on Hoovies latest purchase. And also why I probably should not be buying a cheaper used car private sale, at least not without a serious PPI done.

I did mention one of the recent cars and bids cars (the 2015 ATS 6 speed) that went for a good price, and how that could be an option eventually. Her response was, "but it's used. I like new cars". If I have to buy new to make her happy, I guess I will! Not that she would know the difference between new and a pretty new service loaner or CPO unit.

xwesx · October 2020

stickguy said:
If I have to buy new to make her happy, I guess I will!

Wait, are you talking about the wife now, or still the daughter? I don't see any reason at all that you would have to make the daughter happy....

stickguy · October 2020

no, the Jetta story was the daughter. The used car was the wife.

though when I complained that the VW service was overpriced, and my Acura dealer was 1/2 the price for the same service, princess piped up with "I should sell it and buy an ILX!" I like that kid!

nyccarguy · October 2020

qbrozen said:
Oh boy. Service advisor called this eve. They have a laundry lost of things, most should be undef warranty. He is going to call in morn for approval. I couldn’t hear him clearly because he caught me in the car, but I heard control arms bushings, timing cover leak, some kind of steering leak, and some kind of coolant leak, I believe. As for the electrical gremlins that I thought was likely all one connector since they started at the same time, they say are 3 different things. Some kind of speed sensor in the steering wheel for the cruise, the seat control switch, and the passenger seat belt.

I am doubting control arm bushings would be covered but he seems to think so. The one thing on his list not covered were brakes. He quoted me $900, to which I said I’d take care of those myself.

69,400 miles, for those curious. I’m anxious to see the receipt. Could very well be this is the trip that makes the warranty worth it. My son was asking about the warranty. I tried to explain it but he can’t comprehend what “lifetime” means for a car. Lol.

That is quite the laundry list of issues. The lifetime warranty is bumper to bumper?

corvette · October 2020

qbrozen said:
I tried to explain it but he can’t comprehend what “lifetime” means for a car. Lol.

From the sound of it, Chrysler wasn't thinking about what it meant when they wrote it, either.

corvette · October 2020

stickguy said:

ouch. Sounds like a list from the Car Wizard on Hoovies latest purchase.

I really like the thoroughness of the Car Wizard... If I lived in that area, I wouldn't mind going there and paying whatever their retail price is for an oil change, because I know they will actually look over everything instead of trying to get it out the door as quickly as possible.

qbrozen · October 2020

I'd have to pull out the original literature. I know the coverage was very comprehensive, but I was (at the time) focusing on things I actually worried about such as all the electronics (doors, seats, RES, nav, etc), which it does cover.

qbrozen · October 2020

Huh. Lookit that. The overview does mention suspension.

Lifetime Maximum Care — provides prolonged and complete mechanical coverage beyond the vehicle's factory warranty, including coverage for Luxury and Power Group components:
Engine
Transmission
Driveline
Steering
Electrical/Expanded Electrical
Power Group
Air Conditioning
Engine Cooling and Fuel System
Front/Rear Suspension
Brakes/Antilock Brakes
Instrumentation
Luxury Group
Body Mechanisms
Manual Interior Mechanisms
Safety and Security

Including:
Heated Seats and Steering Wheels
Power Liftgate Motors
Power Sliding Door Motors
Navigation Systems
Factory-installed Remote Start Systems
In-Vehicle Wireless Charging Stations
Backup Assist Cameras and much more!

28firefighter · October 2020

So what isn’t included? Seems like you could keep a car running forever.

corvette · October 2020

Is it transferable, or is that how they get out of paying on most of them since they are usually on at least their second or third owner once they reach hooptie status?

qbrozen · October 2020

28firefighter said:
So what isn’t included? Seems like you could keep a car running forever.

that's the idea!

but, in case it is not remembered: FCA has an "out" in that they can choose to purchase the vehicle from us in lieu of repair.

stickguy · October 2020

was it transferrable? If not, they most likely know that many (most?) people will get tired and sell instead of milking the warranty forever. Plus as noted, they just have to say the hooptie is only worth $1,500 at some point and keep it instead of replacing a blown tranny.

28firefighter · October 2020

Depends - how do they value the vehicle at that point?

stickguy · October 2020

I would assume, as low as possible or however they want. Maybe blue book trade?

nyccarguy · October 2020

qbrozen said:
Huh. Lookit that. The overview does mention suspension.

Lifetime Maximum Care — provides prolonged and complete mechanical coverage beyond the vehicle's factory warranty, including coverage for Luxury and Power Group components:
Engine
Transmission
Driveline
Steering
Electrical/Expanded Electrical
Power Group
Air Conditioning
Engine Cooling and Fuel System
Front/Rear Suspension
Brakes/Antilock Brakes
Instrumentation
Luxury Group
Body Mechanisms
Manual Interior Mechanisms
Safety and Security

Including:
Heated Seats and Steering Wheels
Power Liftgate Motors
Power Sliding Door Motors
Navigation Systems
Factory-installed Remote Start Systems
In-Vehicle Wireless Charging Stations
Backup Assist Cameras and much more!

Impressive to say the least. They are standing behind it too. You have 66K miles you said? It’s paid off? And your wife likes it! Does it require you to keep impeccable service records?

nyccarguy · October 2020

That white, automatic Prelude went for $8,600 on Cars & Bids.

qbrozen · October 2020

69k miles

Works the same as the factory warranty as for care and feeding. We always go to same dealer we bought it from. I’m sure there are value rules written out somewhere, but it would have to be the value of it as if it were fixed.

I think of it this way: odds are it will never be worth less than $2500 before a repair will exceed that value, which is about what we paid for the warranty, including tax and interest. So, at some point, if we still have it by that time, they’ll buy it from us for what the warranty cost. That means all repairs up to then were covered with no additional expense to us.

oldfarmer50 · October 2020

qbrozen said:
Oh boy. Service advisor called this eve. They have a laundry lost of things, most should be undef warranty. He is going to call in morn for approval. I couldn’t hear him clearly because he caught me in the car, but I heard control arms bushings, timing cover leak, some kind of steering leak, and some kind of coolant leak, I believe. As for the electrical gremlins that I thought was likely all one connector since they started at the same time, they say are 3 different things. Some kind of speed sensor in the steering wheel for the cruise, the seat control switch, and the passenger seat belt.

I am doubting control arm bushings would be covered but he seems to think so. The one thing on his list not covered were brakes. He quoted me $900, to which I said I’d take care of those myself.

69,400 miles, for those curious. I’m anxious to see the receipt. Could very well be this is the trip that makes the warranty worth it. My son was asking about the warranty. I tried to explain it but he can’t comprehend what “lifetime” means for a car. Lol.

Chrysler must buy bushings from the bargain bin as they went bad on the PT Cruiser at unusually low milage (maybe 40k). Strangely, the old Sebring with 85k miles hasn’t had that problem, knock on wood.

oldfarmer50 · October 2020

nyccarguy said:
That white, automatic Prelude went for $8,600 on Cars & Bids.

The Lebanon went for $5192. About twice what it was worth IMO. People do seem to get caught up in the spirit of bidding I guess.

tjc78 · October 2020

oldfarmer50 said:

nyccarguy said:
That white, automatic Prelude went for $8,600 on Cars & Bids.
The Lebanon went for $5192. About twice what it was worth IMO. People do seem to get caught up in the spirit of bidding I guess.

Someone wanted a really nice one and was willing to pay for it. Also, probably cheaper than trying to fix one up.

tjc78 · October 2020

oldfarmer50 said:

qbrozen said:
Oh boy. Service advisor called this eve. They have a laundry lost of things, most should be undef warranty. He is going to call in morn for approval. I couldn’t hear him clearly because he caught me in the car, but I heard control arms bushings, timing cover leak, some kind of steering leak, and some kind of coolant leak, I believe. As for the electrical gremlins that I thought was likely all one connector since they started at the same time, they say are 3 different things. Some kind of speed sensor in the steering wheel for the cruise, the seat control switch, and the passenger seat belt.

I am doubting control arm bushings would be covered but he seems to think so. The one thing on his list not covered were brakes. He quoted me $900, to which I said I’d take care of those myself.

69,400 miles, for those curious. I’m anxious to see the receipt. Could very well be this is the trip that makes the warranty worth it. My son was asking about the warranty. I tried to explain it but he can’t comprehend what “lifetime” means for a car. Lol.
Chrysler must buy bushings from the bargain bin as they went bad on the PT Cruiser at unusually low milage (maybe 40k). Strangely, the old Sebring with 85k miles hasn’t had that problem, knock on wood.

Heavy FWD van with a big V6... I'm not totally surprised about it. The bushings probably aren't totally shot just getting worn and since Q has the warranty the dealer is pushing the repair through to pocket the $$.

au1994 · October 2020

tjc78 said:

oldfarmer50 said:

nyccarguy said:
That white, automatic Prelude went for $8,600 on Cars & Bids.
The Lebanon went for $5192. About twice what it was worth IMO. People do seem to get caught up in the spirit of bidding I guess.
Someone wanted a really nice one and was willing to pay for it. Also, probably cheaper than trying to fix one up.

That’s a pretty good way to look at it. That example was in great shape and you could easily hit that figure buying and bringing one up to snuff. Especially if you are not turning your own wrench.

stickguy · October 2020

My theory on it. Much cheaper to buy a car done usually than it is to restore one.

ab348 · October 2020

tjc78 said:

Heavy FWD van with a big V6... I'm not totally surprised about it. The bushings probably aren't totally shot just getting worn and since Q has the warranty the dealer is pushing the repair through to pocket the $$.

When I had my Intrigue the dealer replaced front control arm bushings twice under warranty. I had never noticed a problem or heard a sound from there, so never even mentioned it either time. I figured when they called to say they were replacing them under warranty that it was a warranty scam.

au1994 · October 2020

Just got this from Costco. Good through Jan. 4.

•
$1,000 off Chevrolet Blazer, Colorado, Silverado 1500/2500/3500, Suburban, Tahoe, Traverse and Trailblazer
•
$1,000 off Buick Encore GX and Enclave
•
$1,000 off GMC Acadia, Canyon, Sierra 1500/2500/3500, Yukon and Yukon XL
•
$1,250 off Volvo XC40, XC60 and XC90
•
$3,000 off Chevrolet Bolt EV

I’ve certainly seen better, especially on the Volvos. If you can couple the GM offers with any others that might be attractive.

oldfarmer50 · October 2020

stickguy said:
My theory on it. Much cheaper to buy a car done usually than it is to restore one.

Very true. I once got that advice directly from the guy on American Pickers. Still, I wouldn’t pay $5200 for a car like that, particularly since it was starting to have convertible top issues. Someone who had a real soft spot for that particular car might not care.

Michaell · October 2020

I know I've mentioned my mom's car on this thread before - 2003 Hyundai Sonata GLS V6, with only 40K on it.

My sister has taken possession of it and has had her local mechanic look things over. He proclaimed it was in pretty good condition.

There were, however, a few issues that we felt was best handled by the dealer - the cruise control wasn't working, and there was a problem with the fuel filler neck that prevented gas from the nozzle to flow at a regular rate. The car is at the dealer now, and they are claiming that the timing belt needs to be replaced on top of the work we've already authorized.

Dealer says it should be changed every 5 years or 60,000 miles, so technically, it should have been changed 3 times by now. They want to charge $795 for the work - but, this does not include replacing the water pump.

My sister called her independent guy today, and he says that we he looked over the car a couple months back, he didn't see anything wrong with the belt that would require it to be replaced. When asked, he quoted $1000 for both the timing belt and water pump replacement.

So, do we:
1. Do nothing
2. Replace the belt only
3. Replace the belt and water pump

At some point in the near future, I'm going to collect the car and bring it back to Colorado, and I'm leaning to either (1) or (3), but wanted to ping the expertise here at CCBA for your opinions. No comments along the lines of why we're investing so much into a car that's worth so little - that ship has sailed, and we're OK with spending the money to keep it running.

Thanks!

corvette · October 2020

If you do #3, do the tensioner as well. That is what nearly grenaded the engine on my dad’s TDI Beetle.

Michaell · October 2020

corvette said:
If you do #3, do the tensioner as well. That is what nearly grenaded the engine on my dad’s TDI Beetle.

Got it! Thanks for the advice.

xwesx · October 2020

Yeah, belt change should also include tensioner change, and it shouldn't change the price (except for the part, if it doesn't come with the belt in a kit).

TBH, the schedule for timing belt replacements is usually on the "very safe" side of the spectrum. However, 17+ years on the original belt (I assume) is certainly pushing it. If you want the car to keep running (and, hopefully, well), then this is a necessary outlay. It must be rather labor intensive for $1000.... but that's the DIY in my speaking.

Plus, it will be good for the car to have new coolant in the lines... maybe even new radiator hoses if you get spunky (again, should be a zero-labor item, and cost on those is pretty minimal).

And, water pump as preventative? I think I would need to see it to decide. It doesn't hurt to put a new on, by any means, but the cost seems steep unless the part is really spendy. If you do the pump, though, a new thermostat should go without saying. Again, a zero labor item with all the other work being done..

Michaell · October 2020

xwesx said:
Yeah, belt change should also include tensioner change, and it shouldn't change the price (except for the part, if it doesn't come with the belt in a kit).

TBH, the schedule for timing belt replacements is usually on the "very safe" side of the spectrum. However, 17+ years on the original belt (I assume) is certainly pushing it. If you want the car to keep running (and, hopefully, well), then this is a necessary outlay. It must be rather labor intensive for $1000.... but that's the DIY in my speaking.

Plus, it will be good for the car to have new coolant in the lines... maybe even new radiator hoses if you get spunky (again, should be a zero-labor item, and cost on those is pretty minimal).

My sister's mechanic inspected all the hoses and proclaimed them in good shape. This is a mechanic my sister trusts, as her FIL entrusted a series of Cadillacs to him over the years.

xwesx · October 2020

Michaell said:

My sister's mechanic inspected all the hoses and proclaimed them in good shape. This is a mechanic my sister trusts, as her FIL entrusted a series of Cadillacs to him over the years.

Great! Then no need to push the issue. Those hoses can last a very long time, or they can deteriorate on the inside within ten years or so... visually, they look fine, but if they get thin spots in the walls, they can burst or collapse, and neither is good for coolant flow. An inspection (with some physical contact to check the integrity) should quickly tell a mechanic which is which.

oldfarmer50 · October 2020

Michaell said:
I know I've mentioned my mom's car on this thread before - 2003 Hyundai Sonata GLS V6, with only 40K on it.

My sister has taken possession of it and has had her local mechanic look things over. He proclaimed it was in pretty good condition.

There were, however, a few issues that we felt was best handled by the dealer - the cruise control wasn't working, and there was a problem with the fuel filler neck that prevented gas from the nozzle to flow at a regular rate. The car is at the dealer now, and they are claiming that the timing belt needs to be replaced on top of the work we've already authorized.

Dealer says it should be changed every 5 years or 60,000 miles, so technically, it should have been changed 3 times by now. They want to charge $795 for the work - but, this does not include replacing the water pump.

My sister called her independent guy today, and he says that we he looked over the car a couple months back, he didn't see anything wrong with the belt that would require it to be replaced. When asked, he quoted $1000 for both the timing belt and water pump replacement.

So, do we:
1. Do nothing
2. Replace the belt only
3. Replace the belt and water pump

At some point in the near future, I'm going to collect the car and bring it back to Colorado, and I'm leaning to either (1) or (3), but wanted to ping the expertise here at CCBA for your opinions. No comments along the lines of why we're investing so much into a car that's worth so little - that ship has sailed, and we're OK with spending the money to keep it running.

Thanks!

Is it going to be a long term car for you? If yes I’d have it done. If it’s going to be an occasional spare vehicle I’d say no, by the time anything fails the car won’t be worth anything anyway. It’s a $2500 car PP according to Edmunds. Drive it until it blows up.

I had the same decision on the Sebring a while back and I decided given the less than 2000 miles a year I drive it not to spend the $1000 to do the belt/pump. My car is 3 years older than yours and twice the milage.

au1994 · October 2020

Belt and tensioner, yes. 40k on a water pump should be nothing and you could do it the next time you do the belt. Definitely have the other rubber bits checked. With that low of miles it obviously did some sitting which isn’t good for most of the parts on a car.

omarman · October 2020

I like option #1. Just drive it. Use it up. Park anywhere you want.

Michaell · October 2020

oldfarmer50 said:

Michaell said:
I know I've mentioned my mom's car on this thread before - 2003 Hyundai Sonata GLS V6, with only 40K on it.

My sister has taken possession of it and has had her local mechanic look things over. He proclaimed it was in pretty good condition.

There were, however, a few issues that we felt was best handled by the dealer - the cruise control wasn't working, and there was a problem with the fuel filler neck that prevented gas from the nozzle to flow at a regular rate. The car is at the dealer now, and they are claiming that the timing belt needs to be replaced on top of the work we've already authorized.

Dealer says it should be changed every 5 years or 60,000 miles, so technically, it should have been changed 3 times by now. They want to charge $795 for the work - but, this does not include replacing the water pump.

My sister called her independent guy today, and he says that we he looked over the car a couple months back, he didn't see anything wrong with the belt that would require it to be replaced. When asked, he quoted $1000 for both the timing belt and water pump replacement.

So, do we:
1. Do nothing
2. Replace the belt only
3. Replace the belt and water pump

At some point in the near future, I'm going to collect the car and bring it back to Colorado, and I'm leaning to either (1) or (3), but wanted to ping the expertise here at CCBA for your opinions. No comments along the lines of why we're investing so much into a car that's worth so little - that ship has sailed, and we're OK with spending the money to keep it running.

Thanks!
Is it going to be a long term car for you? If yes I’d have it done. If it’s going to be an occasional spare vehicle I’d say no, by the time anything fails the car won’t be worth anything anyway. It’s a $2500 car PP according to Edmunds. Drive it until it blows up.

I had the same decision on the Sebring a while back and I decided given the less than 2000 miles a year I drive it not to spend the $1000 to do the belt/pump. My car is 3 years older than yours and twice the milage.

Define long term - the first order of business is to drive it 1100 miles to Colorado, at which point I may put 3-6k on it a year. Truly a spare third car.

au1994 · October 2020

Michaell said:

oldfarmer50 said:

Michaell said:
I know I've mentioned my mom's car on this thread before - 2003 Hyundai Sonata GLS V6, with only 40K on it.

My sister has taken possession of it and has had her local mechanic look things over. He proclaimed it was in pretty good condition.

There were, however, a few issues that we felt was best handled by the dealer - the cruise control wasn't working, and there was a problem with the fuel filler neck that prevented gas from the nozzle to flow at a regular rate. The car is at the dealer now, and they are claiming that the timing belt needs to be replaced on top of the work we've already authorized.

Dealer says it should be changed every 5 years or 60,000 miles, so technically, it should have been changed 3 times by now. They want to charge $795 for the work - but, this does not include replacing the water pump.

My sister called her independent guy today, and he says that we he looked over the car a couple months back, he didn't see anything wrong with the belt that would require it to be replaced. When asked, he quoted $1000 for both the timing belt and water pump replacement.

So, do we:
1. Do nothing
2. Replace the belt only
3. Replace the belt and water pump

At some point in the near future, I'm going to collect the car and bring it back to Colorado, and I'm leaning to either (1) or (3), but wanted to ping the expertise here at CCBA for your opinions. No comments along the lines of why we're investing so much into a car that's worth so little - that ship has sailed, and we're OK with spending the money to keep it running.

Thanks!
Is it going to be a long term car for you? If yes I’d have it done. If it’s going to be an occasional spare vehicle I’d say no, by the time anything fails the car won’t be worth anything anyway. It’s a $2500 car PP according to Edmunds. Drive it until it blows up.

I had the same decision on the Sebring a while back and I decided given the less than 2000 miles a year I drive it not to spend the $1000 to do the belt/pump. My car is 3 years older than yours and twice the milage.
Define long term - the first order of business is to drive it 1100 miles to Colorado, at which point I may put 3-6k on it a year. Truly a spare third car.

It should be perfect for that after this round of maintenance. Give it an oil change and tire rotation once a year for peace of mind and you will be fine for many years.

Michaell · October 2020

au1994 said:

Michaell said:

oldfarmer50 said:

Michaell said:
I know I've mentioned my mom's car on this thread before - 2003 Hyundai Sonata GLS V6, with only 40K on it.

My sister has taken possession of it and has had her local mechanic look things over. He proclaimed it was in pretty good condition.

There were, however, a few issues that we felt was best handled by the dealer - the cruise control wasn't working, and there was a problem with the fuel filler neck that prevented gas from the nozzle to flow at a regular rate. The car is at the dealer now, and they are claiming that the timing belt needs to be replaced on top of the work we've already authorized.

Dealer says it should be changed every 5 years or 60,000 miles, so technically, it should have been changed 3 times by now. They want to charge $795 for the work - but, this does not include replacing the water pump.

My sister called her independent guy today, and he says that we he looked over the car a couple months back, he didn't see anything wrong with the belt that would require it to be replaced. When asked, he quoted $1000 for both the timing belt and water pump replacement.

So, do we:
1. Do nothing
2. Replace the belt only
3. Replace the belt and water pump

At some point in the near future, I'm going to collect the car and bring it back to Colorado, and I'm leaning to either (1) or (3), but wanted to ping the expertise here at CCBA for your opinions. No comments along the lines of why we're investing so much into a car that's worth so little - that ship has sailed, and we're OK with spending the money to keep it running.

Thanks!
Is it going to be a long term car for you? If yes I’d have it done. If it’s going to be an occasional spare vehicle I’d say no, by the time anything fails the car won’t be worth anything anyway. It’s a $2500 car PP according to Edmunds. Drive it until it blows up.

I had the same decision on the Sebring a while back and I decided given the less than 2000 miles a year I drive it not to spend the $1000 to do the belt/pump. My car is 3 years older than yours and twice the milage.
Define long term - the first order of business is to drive it 1100 miles to Colorado, at which point I may put 3-6k on it a year. Truly a spare third car.
It should be perfect for that after this round of maintenance. Give it an oil change and tire rotation once a year for peace of mind and you will be fine for many years.

Exactly my thinking. I'll probably invest a few hundred $$$'s into a CarPlay compatible head unit and some winter floor mats, but other than that, it should be good.

ab348 · October 2020

VW just introduced the new VW Taos, a compact crossover. It sounds like it is essentially replacing the Golf in North America.

https://www.thetruthaboutcars.com/2020/10/2022-volkswagen-taos-vw-fills-another-crossover-niche/

Another option for @Sandman6472 to consider. It appeals to me as well.

mjfloyd1 · October 2020

au1994 said:
Belt and tensioner, yes. 40k on a water pump should be nothing and you could do it the next time you do the belt. Definitely have the other rubber bits checked. With that low of miles it obviously did some sitting which isn’t good for most of the parts on a car.

I looked online and the whole kit with timing belt, tensioners and water pump was less than $90

https://www.partsgeek.com/mmparts/timing_belt/hyundai/sonata.html

Sandman6472 · October 2020

"Winner, winner...chicken dinner"! Yep, that VW Taos looks like it could be a contender for my next vehicle. The added length could be an issue as my Golf is basically 168". But, I'll try it anyways and go from there. I brought the 2015 Jetta home first and it was longer than I really wanted plus, I like a hatchback. So, as much as I love the Audi Q3, this VW Taos will fit the bill much better and probably be less costly to purchase. One mistake I won't do again is not to try the "SEL" model first. I've got the "SE" model now and should've gone for the "SEL" to begin with. So, hopefully won't make that mistake a second time. All really depends on the alloy rim size and design and the audio systems offered. Have the Fender system now and it's pretty decent so would have to get the Beats system if push came to shove. One never knows but my next new vehicle could end up being the last one I ever get...I just don't know!
But, I do like the new 2022 VW Taos...a lot!

oldfarmer50 · October 2020

Michaell said:

oldfarmer50 said:

Michaell said:
I know I've mentioned my mom's car on this thread before - 2003 Hyundai Sonata GLS V6, with only 40K on it.

My sister has taken possession of it and has had her local mechanic look things over. He proclaimed it was in pretty good condition.

There were, however, a few issues that we felt was best handled by the dealer - the cruise control wasn't working, and there was a problem with the fuel filler neck that prevented gas from the nozzle to flow at a regular rate. The car is at the dealer now, and they are claiming that the timing belt needs to be replaced on top of the work we've already authorized.

Dealer says it should be changed every 5 years or 60,000 miles, so technically, it should have been changed 3 times by now. They want to charge $795 for the work - but, this does not include replacing the water pump.

My sister called her independent guy today, and he says that we he looked over the car a couple months back, he didn't see anything wrong with the belt that would require it to be replaced. When asked, he quoted $1000 for both the timing belt and water pump replacement.

So, do we:
1. Do nothing
2. Replace the belt only
3. Replace the belt and water pump

At some point in the near future, I'm going to collect the car and bring it back to Colorado, and I'm leaning to either (1) or (3), but wanted to ping the expertise here at CCBA for your opinions. No comments along the lines of why we're investing so much into a car that's worth so little - that ship has sailed, and we're OK with spending the money to keep it running.

Thanks!
Is it going to be a long term car for you? If yes I’d have it done. If it’s going to be an occasional spare vehicle I’d say no, by the time anything fails the car won’t be worth anything anyway. It’s a $2500 car PP according to Edmunds. Drive it until it blows up.

I had the same decision on the Sebring a while back and I decided given the less than 2000 miles a year I drive it not to spend the $1000 to do the belt/pump. My car is 3 years older than yours and twice the milage.
Define long term - the first order of business is to drive it 1100 miles to Colorado, at which point I may put 3-6k on it a year. Truly a spare third car.

Long term--more than 5 years, more than 5k miles a year.
Occasional spare—Less than 2k miles a year for as long as it lasts.

You’re right on the cusp of where I’d bite the bullet. I asked a while ago similar advice on changing the timing belt on the Sebring and the consensus was not to bother, considering the miles I drove it.

If you’re worried that it won’t make it the 1100 miles back to Colorado I’d sell it where it is and pocket the money.

sda · October 2020

ab348 said:
VW just introduced the new VW Taos, a compact crossover. It sounds like it is essentially replacing the Golf in North America.

https://www.thetruthaboutcars.com/2020/10/2022-volkswagen-taos-vw-fills-another-crossover-niche/

Another option for @Sandman6472 to consider. It appeals to me as well.

The Taos looks good but I can’t help think it would be a let down after your two ATSs, which are wonderful cars.

tjc78 · October 2020

Is the engine an interference engine? If so 100% replace it all.

If not.... you could roll the dice IMO. No harm if it breaks just a tow and the same repair bill.

stickguy · October 2020

I like it too. Looks like they basically replaced the prior generation Tiguan with it, since the current model got so much bigger. Looks to be a good size, and should be an interesting comparison to the upcoming redone Tucson.

stickguy · October 2020

on the Sonata, I would vote for bringing it home before deciding. If you do decide to do the belt though, I always lean toward the "while you are in there" theory. Water pump, tensioner, and if they look iffy cam seals, etc. Even though the miles are low, the W.P. could be iffy just from sitting (rust?) Same with rubber parts.

but, not worth much, and assuming it makes it back, not risking much just putting around town occasionally.

one wrinkle, it does appear that the 2.7l V6 is an interference engine. So I guess the real question is, did I fire 5 bullets, or 6, and do you feel lucky?

stickguy · October 2020

another reason to wait until you get it back. an 1,100 mile shake down cruise should give you a pretty good idea of how good a car it is, and if anything else needs attention (and whether you really want to keep it). Hopefully you don't, however, learn it from the back of a tow truck.

ab348 · October 2020

sda said:

The Taos looks good but I can’t help think it would be a let down after your two ATSs, which are wonderful cars.

Well, I expect I'll be keeping it for a while yet. Right now my only beef with it are the OE tires that are on it for another few weeks until the snows go on. They are Bridgestone Potenza RE050A runflats and I absolutely hate them. They are twitchy and tramline over even mild ruts. Plus the low profile means that 3 of my rims have damage on the edges - I am dithering about whether to get them refinished over the winter when the other set of wheels/tires go on. The Bridgestones don't appear to be overly worn so I have a hard time replacing them so soon, but the car drives so much better with the winter Michelins on it.

stickguy · October 2020

I showed the link on the Taos to my daughter (who has the Jetta). She said it was cute and she wants one.

explorerx4 · October 2020

Isn't the Tiguan basically a lifted Golf already?

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