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Dodge Dakota: Problems & Solutions

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Comments

  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    (seventy7) GREAT JOB!!!

    You are as meticulous as I am ;-)

    Years ago, I would just run a garden hose thru the system while revving the engine.... but now... the concern of minerals in the tapwater messing up the mixture makes this a doubious process. There is no way to gauarantee all of the tapwater is removed from the system after flusing.

    I am definantly going to buy a case of distilled water and do a thorough flush of my cooling system.

    BTW... thanks for locating the radiator draincock for me. I did not pull off that cover under the engine becauese those snap-in clips often break.
  • hennehenne Member Posts: 407
    No, I know when the ABS kicks in on mine, I can hear it and feel it and it does it sometimes when I am showing the problem to the dealer.

    Now they say they dont know how to fix it and D/C says they will not assist anymore since the rep (That has never seen my truck) said there is nothing he knows to do. So now D/C and my local dealer have me driving a truck with no brakes most of the time and will not do any more to it.

    Its funny how when I had a whine in the rearend on the last Dakota, D/C jumped to the plate and got me a new truck. Now a little thing like no brakes and they say there is nothing more they can do.

    Complaints have already been filed with NHTSA, CA Bureau of Auto Repair and the Federal Trade Commission.

    Robert
  • jhorljhorl Member Posts: 89
    After taking my truck to a Dodge dealership and a radiator shop, nobody has ever seen that sludge that I spoke about previously. The fact that inside the radiator cap, even on the spring, was completely clean, I started wondering why this sludge was only in the resovouir. Also it was only floating on the top of the antifreeze inside the resovouir. I used the same funnel to fill the system as I used to change the oil earlier in the day, after cleaning it of course. I started thinking maybe the antifreeze picked up a skim of oil on the funnel. Anything that would be lighter than the antifreeze and float to the top, would find its way into the resovouir via the suction tube from the radiator cap and bottom of the resovouir. I disconnected this tube and drained the resovouir and then flushed with a garden hose for about 20 minutes. Then I flushed it with 2 gallons of distilled water. After re-servising the system and running the truck for about 3 days all the sludge is gone and everything is clean as a whistle. I hope it stays that way because it gave me quiet a scare.

    John
  • waynesanwaynesan Member Posts: 24
    A search on PSF revealed owners using ATF+4. I have a 2001 4.7L and my service manual says:
    "Use Mopar Power Steering fluid or equivalent. Do not use automatic transmission fluid and do not overfill." In fact, my Dodge Parts Dept. sold me Mopar Power Steering Fluid #04883077. Which is the correct fluid?

    P.S. To seventy7, thanks for taking the time to post in great detail your "coolant changeout."
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    (waynesan) There was a TSB (Technical Service Bulliten) that describes the changover to using ATF+4 as PSF. (mid 2001 and on)

    Search the archives of this very forum... I appended the verbage of the TSB several months ago. (Hint: #2354)

    he ATF+4 is a SYNTHETIC fluid and can better handle the heat generated by the new rack&pionion steering system.

    My 2000 Dak has REGULAR PSF in it and I chose to replace with the same (non-synthetic) stuff due to the possibility of mixing the fluids in the system.

    The newer Daks (mid 2001 and on) have the ATF+4 as a factory fill.. .this stuff lasts MUCH longer than the normal PSF.
  • waynesanwaynesan Member Posts: 24
    bpeebles, thank you for alerting me to the 8-01 TSB. I took delivery of my '01 in 10-00. The Mopar Power Steering Fluid I purchased new is brown, yet the PSF in my dak is somewhat brown (32,000 miles) yet I can detect some red like the ATF+4. I just wanted to use a turkey baster to suck up as much old stuff as I could and replace it with some fresh PSF.Now I'm afraid of mixing the two types.
  • sunburnsunburn Member Posts: 319
    What is the hex key size for the transfer case drain/fill plugs on an 2002 part-time transfer case? I can't tell if they are 9mm or 10mm. Thanks.
  • hennehenne Member Posts: 407
    Now they are also saying that because I have airbags on the truck and a camper belly bar mounted under the frame, it voids my warranty and thats also what is causing my brake problems. Funny, I had the brake problem documented long before any aftermarket items were put on the truck. Well I have now officially begun Lemon Law filings on my 2nd Dodge Dakota in a row.
  • mopar67mopar67 Member Posts: 728
    Dodge still insists on using substandard parts and its no wonder their market share is falling.
  • hennehenne Member Posts: 407
    How is the Suzuki running? I finally give up on Dodge.

    Have a great weekend.
  • mopar67mopar67 Member Posts: 728
    just put on new cooper weathermaster tires for the winter and took off the tiger slicks, rim and all, and storing them until next spring. Cooper tires have a bit of a bounce to them like a belt is at odds with its partner belt so I am going back to the dealer tomorrow to get them looked at.

    As to your question, no problems. Last year, at around 4K, the alternator gave up the ghost due to a mis routed wiring harness that shorted out and smoked the alternator. Otherwise, still humming along. No brake issues at all, same type of driving, same hunting type trips, same roads, same pretty much everything. Probably the main diffrennce in my brake troubles with the Dak and this rig are:
    1. Stick shift allows me to use engine to slow down, thus saving on the brakes.
    2. Rotors are obvisously much better quality and properly sized to the vehicle. Dodge, are you reading this?
    3. Perhaps a tad more braking power goes to the rear on this rig as the Dakota since there is a bit more weight back there. Less to the front so the braking forces are probably spread out a bit better than on the Dak.

    That's pretty much it. I spend more time keeping this vehicle clean rather than wondering what will break next like I did with the Dak.

    My advice, take it for what it's worth, is get out of that truck and get yourself something that lasts. One lemon is enough, two is too much to bear.

    Good luck.
  • hennehenne Member Posts: 407
    Well at the request of my dad, I unplugged the 2 connectors on top of the ABS module next the engine. My brake problem went away. I have 4 wheel ABS by the way. I had no speedometer and of course my brake and ABS warning lights were on. I plugged the ABS back in and my problem came back.

    Its like the ABS is kicking in during hard braking as it should but, instead of pulsing it is sticking and I just slow down like coasting to a stop in neutral and the brake pedal wont move.

    I am picturing it like a valve that opens and closes real fast and instead of doing that it is sticking halfway and not letting the full braking force go. Does this make sense? Any of you guys with a book know if there is a way I can disable the ABS and still have speedometer and no warning lights on the dash in a 2001 Quadcab, 4.7 auto, 4x4?

    Thanks,

    Robert
  • jhorljhorl Member Posts: 89
    To be honest, that is something I wouldnt do. I would bring your findings to the best dealership you can find and then they could troubleshooot that component. I do agree that what you've done is better than no brakes, but I dont think you should have to mess with a system like that yourself.

    Just my 2 cents.
    John
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    The fact that you say the power steering fluid has a slight red color to it makes me believe that it was initially filled with ATF+4.

    Best regards,
    Dusty
  • hennehenne Member Posts: 407
    I didnt leave it like that. I just did it around the block to test it. It was like like for less than half a mile.

    Robert
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    Since you have disconnected the ABS unit (Hydraulic Control Unit) and the symptom has gone away, it appears that this is the controlling element in your problem. I don't think you have a wheel speed sensor problem. I say this because if you did I'm pretty sure you would be triggering the ABS on every stop.

    (The wheel speed differential would be detected as a "ABS stop," meaning it thinks one of the vehicle wheels is completely stopped all the time.)

    My guess is that the ABS unit is defective. I would mention what you did to your service people and see what they say.

    By the way, the ABS brake system on my wife's Avalon is about the worst I have ever driven. It triggers easily and often, even on dry pavement. The Toyota service manager told us that ABS controller failures are "kind've common" on Toyota vehicles, recognising our complaint. Since we have nearly 70K on this car everything is out of warranty. The ABS controller on the Avalon is $1000. GM uses the same unit. We've replaced them before. I sometimes am tempted to do the same thing you've done and leave the blasted thing disconnected.

    Also, my Dakota is rear wheel ABS only. That probably explains the difference in the way they act.

    Good luck,
    Dusty
  • hennehenne Member Posts: 407
    I would tell the dealer, but they told me not to come back since I wont let it drop and Dodge has said they will not cover brakes on this truck at any dealer. I am out in the cold because the local dealer gave his 2 cents to D/C and I am not allowed to. So all I can do is lemon it, sell it or fix it out of pocket.

    Dodge=BAD! lol...

    Robert
  • madcityrussmadcityruss Member Posts: 40
    try this attitude: customer is king! take it as far up the Chrysler ladder as you need to before they start tripping over one another to please you. trust me, it's not as far as you think. tell the right people Dodge wants you to drive sans brakes and they'll cave big time!
  • mopar67mopar67 Member Posts: 728
    sort of mirrors my fathers. He had an 1999 Intrepid. Took it to the dealer for an oil change (free coupon). The next day, he and my mother drove up to PA from Indiana. He called me at I79 exit and said, bring 3 quarts of oil. I thought, oh s***.......so I drove out there and guess what? No oil cap on the engine. Anywhere. So we added oil, stuffed rags in there, and made it back to my place. We got another cap from the dealer here in town and they made it back to Indiana no problem.
    He goes to the dealer, shows them the god awful mess (oil was EVERYWHERE) and showed them the oil soaked and now dripping hood insulation.
    The service guy said, well, hey dude, you left off the oil cap when you changed your oil....not our problem. Till pops showed them the receipt. Then the service guy got real quiet and sheepish but still hemmed and hawed about how "busy" they were and it might be "two weeks" before they could look at it.
    So pops shoves off, gets in the car, and proceeds to park it right in front of the main service bay door. Gets out, locks it up, and called a buddy for a ride. The service guy comes out, yells, "Hey move the car". To which pops responds with a vertical finger salute. Then the GM of the dealership gets involved and is falling all over himself to make excuses for inept workmanship but said dad can have a free rental while they clean up the mess.
    So a new hood insulator is ordered, installed, and the motor is cleaned. THe service guy was all out of sorts and said, "Hope you're happy, ya got a new insulator on there, just like you wanted."
    Dad said, "yeah, remember it was nice and new when I brought it in here too"

    Ok, so this isn't design or manufacturing defect but as you can see, its plainly obvious that once you sign the papers and hand over the money, they seem to forget who you are.
    Your situation is totally inexcusable. I hope you can get a satisfactory resolution to your issues.

    Small wonder that sales, profits, and market share continue to trend downward for the big 2.5

    There's a lesson here somewhere.

    PS......this past summer, after some more issues like crank sensors failure, master cylinder leak, and loose ac pulley, dad traded the Intrepid for a new Toyota Corolla. Remember this is/was a dyed in the wool 29 year UAW, rah rah rah Detroit iron driver. Goes to show anymore that people will indeed go where they are treated well.
  • bookittybookitty Member Posts: 1,303
    Ben, your Dad rules!

    Bookitty
  • mopar67mopar67 Member Posts: 728
    and I learned early on, you don't "dis" and ex-marine. Never.
  • fornmanfornman Member Posts: 1
    I just purchased an '04 quad that is "bouncing" on certain sections of Highway 50 in CA. The dealer is calling it "beaming" and says there is no fix yet from Chrysler. According to dealer, Chrysler has known of the problem for 6-8 months but nothing yet to fix it. The truck starts to bounce inside the cab to the point where your body is jiggling up and down about an inch. If you look out the rear view mirror you can see the back of the bed bouncing 1-2 inches up and down. It's happening around the Hazel through Zinfandel exits on HYW 50 and along the "causeway" heading towards Vacaville and Davis. I'm seeing the dealer next week so he can drive the truck and then I can listen to him sing vibrato.
  • bcarter3bcarter3 Member Posts: 145
    I had the same problem when I got my CC back in 'oo. The tire pressures were just shy of 40psi!!! After I adjusted the tire pressures to 30psi it rode just fine.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    Make sure you read your owners manual pertaining to tire pressures. Some of the tires used on Dakota are SUPPOSED to be at 40PSI for highway travel.

    My Dakota has the 31X10.5 tires which I always run at 40PSI because of the specific warning in the owners manual. (Higher PSI also provide better MPG too)
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    Some years back a friend of mine bought a new S10 Blazer and after a couple of hundred miles realized the thing was handling very squirelly. He asked me to drive it and to my perception if exhibited an extreme amount of oversteer, to the point of instability if moving the steering wheel very rapidly.

    He took it back to the dealer and they found that someone had put 45 psi of air in the tires. After bringing it down to the normal 32, it handled normally (for an S10 Blazer, that is).

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • 2nddak2nddak Member Posts: 44
    Some questions for those of you that have replaced your front brakes. I'm putting on new pads and rotors tomorrow and have a few questions for you. 1. do the pucks on the caliper simply push back into the cylinders or do they screw in like some do? 2. are there any odd sized wrenches that are needed that wouldn't be in a standard metric set, or allen wrenches needed? Any other heads up on idiosyncracies of this job that you may have found would help. The last time I did this was on my '87 Dakota, so it's been a while. By the way, the brake problems aren't new to the recent Dakotas. I had warped rotors on that one by 25K also, and with every change there after. I sold it at 105K miles still running strong and needing very few repairs while I owned it.

    I'm also putting on some Yokohama Geolander A/T II tires in the 265-70R-16 size. I'll report back after a few good snows to let you all know how they do. Tire rack had a lot of good reveiews for them, other than wearing fast.
    Thanks for all your help.

    Lastly, can anyone post me the link to the article on bedding in new brakes.

    Thanks for all your help. Kevin
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    (2nddak)
    *)Be prepared for the rotors to be STUCK on the hubs.
    *)No special tools besides my 'normal' brake tools. (including wire brushes, brakleen and file to smooth out the pad sliders)
    *)Quality Pads will come with various StainlessSteel shims to properly 'fit' the pads on the sliders.
    *)Quality Pads will come with proper lube for the sliders.

    BrakePad Care&Feeding:
    http://www.shotimes.com/brakes/part1.html

    Install brakes on Dak:
    http://geocities.com/maldbnsf/PS.html
  • bcarter3bcarter3 Member Posts: 145
    '01 CC, 4.7, Auto. When I started my truck this morning the air conditioner would not turn on. It appears that the system is "dead". No light when the button is depressed. No fan blowing. The electric cooling fan does not start up. The compressor clutch does not activate. I checked all applicable fuses and swapped relays. I swapped the control panel with a known good one. The system pressure checks good. The low pressure switch checks good. I can get the compressor clutch to activate by applying 12 volts to the connector. I don't have the capability to check the Pressure Transducer or the PCM. I,m still trying to find a clue in the Service and the Diagnostic Manuals. I did a scan with the engine on and off and no codes were set. Tomorrow I start checking wiring. If it is the PCM I'll have to take it to the dealer to have it changed as the security code will have to be programmed. I'm not looking forward to that. Anyone else have an A/C failure without loss of freon?
  • 2nddak2nddak Member Posts: 44
    Thanks for the brake info. I did find your post 1693 describing the job well. It answered all of my questions. Hopefully I won't need too big of a baseball bad to get those rotors off. I see the rails that the pads ride on are actually pitted out pretty good where the pad backing plate makes contact on them, so I guess I'll have to file them as smooth as possible. It will be nice to be rid of all that thumping while stopping. Thanks again. Kevin
  • 2nddak2nddak Member Posts: 44
    I had a similar problem with my air. Although, it would work but only in the high fan position. It turned out to be a blown fan motor resistor. The A/C system could not be actuated unless the fan switch was on high. Sounds like you don't even have it on high though. Just a thought.
  • bcarter3bcarter3 Member Posts: 145
    Thanks for the tip Kevin!!!! I checked and the A/C works normal on high fan speed. I'm now digging in the Manual for the resistor block location. Thanks again.

                            Dick
  • bcarter3bcarter3 Member Posts: 145
    This morning I went to the dealer to order a resistor block for my A/C problem. The dealer had them in stock which indicated they sell more than a few of them. I spoke to a mechanic and he said it was a common problem. I was pleasantly surprised at the price---$9.90 including tax. The block is in and the A/C working normally again. Thanks Kevin.
                          Dick
  • 2nddak2nddak Member Posts: 44
    Dick, I learned the hard way on that resistor and it cost me about $120 if I recall. At least you got some benifit from my experience. Of course, I was about 3K mile out of warrantee. Kevin
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    Where is the resistor block located?

    Thanks,
    Dusty
  • 2nddak2nddak Member Posts: 44
    I installed my new rotors and pads the other day. Thanks for the info bpeeples. As predicted the rotors were rusted on the hubs pretty well. Thanks to Buffalo winters and salt. It took a bit of penetrant and wacking with a hammer to get them off. I'm wondering if any one has removed the rear drums on their rigs yet. I'm curious to see if they too rust on to their hubs. That happened on my 87 Dak and they had to break them to get them off the hubs at the brake shop. They wouldn't even come off with a torch heating them. God, I can't believe how nice the truck stops now. I waited way too long to correct this problem. The new Geolander AT II's run pretty well so far, a bit noisier than the stock RTS tires but hopefully they'll make up for it in traction in snow and rain. I walked out of a spot in 2wd that I had to use 4wd to get out of with the old tires today.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    (2nddak) I pulled my rear drums and PMd them this summer. I was teaching my nephu how to do it. After taking the slack out of the 'star' automatic adjusters, they came right off with no troubles.

    I cleaned everyting up and added hi-temp lube to all sliding surfaces (just like on the front pad-sliders)

    I would have to say that the rear drum PM on my Dak was no different from any of my other vehicles I have PMd. (except for VW which uses a different kind of automatic adjuster)

    The only 'tricky' part is understandig how to 'back off' the automatic adjuster mechinism.... otherwise, the brake shoes will 'catch' on the lip of rust inside the drum and keep the drum from coming off.

    PM= Preventive Maintenance (A term used in industry)
  • bcarter3bcarter3 Member Posts: 145
    Dusty, The resistor block is mounted vertically in the plenum on the passenger side forward of and in line with the glove box latch. It has two 8mm fasteners and a 5 pin plug. The hardest part of removal is disconnecting the plug. It has a locking feature as well as the usual hard to find release.
                              Dick
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    Dick, thanks. Yeah I found it. Even though I can still bend my body, working under an instrument panel isn't made for us oldtimers that wear bifocals.

    I have heard of the "nothing but high fan speed" symptom before, so I guess I'm ready for this failure. Talked to a neighbor that has a '97 and he hasn't had the resistor burn out yet. But I'm not prone to that kind of luck!

    Best regards,
    Dusty
  • bcarter3bcarter3 Member Posts: 145
    I know what you're talking about. I recently had "occupational lenses" put in my spare glasses. They are like bifocals but have the same magnification at the top as on the bottom. Wearing my bifocals, I found it extremely difficult working under the engine cowling of a B747 where most of the work is overhead. It makes a big difference.
  • sunburnsunburn Member Posts: 319
    When I got my 02 QC two years ago, I installed a bug deflector that mounted between the grille and the hood. Today I noticed 3 cracks in the top of the grille in about a 1" wide area. When I installed it, I thought I was careful not to overtighten the grille mounting nuts. But, maybe not. Looks like I will be installing a new grille next spring.
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    Sunburn, is this the type that mounts the lower flange of the deflector to the bottom edge of the first, uppermost louver in the grille?

    Like the Mopar style?

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    After I re-read your post, are you saying that the deflector requires the grille assembly be removed and the deflector then mounts to the flange area of the hood where the grille mounts?

    Then, I assume, the grille holds the deflector on?

    Dusty
  • sunburnsunburn Member Posts: 319
    Dusty - the deflector slides between the grille and hood. You have to loosen the grille a little bit to slide it in. The upper part of the grille is not protected by the deflector.
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    Yeah, okay. Well, I have yet to see one that installs that way, I guess.

    So you think you overtightened the grille mounting screws? I was thinking of taking mine off to paint the grille louvers a different color.

    I noticed that the louvers are permanently attached melting the plastic studs that hold them on. Kind of makes it difficult to remove them. I assume, then, the louvers are replaced with the grille surround.

    Does this mean you'll have to have the grille surround painted, or do they come in colors?

    Best regards,
    Dusty
  • mtrialsmmtrialsm Member Posts: 159
    2001 Quad, 4.7,auto,2wd: 33k miles:
    I finally took Quad in before bumper-to-bumper
    warrentee ended. (but do have extended).
    1. poping in front end.
    2. faulty fuel guage.
    3. wiper delay?
    4. squeeking in rear suspension.
    5. cooling system service.
    6. auto trans. service.

    The service man said he's NEVER had to replace
    ball joints on a Dakota!
    I called today and the following parts are on order: upper and lower control arm/ball joints, bushings for rear suspension,
    part for steering, gas tank sending unit.
    I didn't mind spending money on service for
    cooling and auto trans.
    But when he recommended "special coil-over spark
    plugs" for $60 buck!!! There's nothing special
    about 4.7v8 plugs. The ones I replace were plain
    jane copper core plugs,,,,,,,what's with that!!!

    My truck has been very good to me. The front end pop has been there from the beginning, just waited
    till now to get all the work done.

    I hope it's finished Monday, I'm picking up my
    "loaner" vehicle today.

    Mick
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    (mtrialsm) You are right to be concerned. The sparkplugs in the 4.7L have no intrinsically special charactoristics and can be purchased for $3 to $5 apeace at any autoparts store.

    NOW, intsalling them is more of a chore than on other engines because of the coil-over design and you should expect to be charged for that additional labor.
  • mtrialsmmtrialsm Member Posts: 159
    Yes I told him I had already replaced them
    and the ones that came from the factory were sure NOT "special"!
    Thanks,
    Hope to get Quad back Tuesday, if they can find the front suspension parts!
    Mick
  • tiltboytiltboy Member Posts: 63
    I'm due for a plug change, and I've seen a lot of mixed info as to what seems the best. So, which is the best, Bosch plat.+4, autolite copper, or the iridiums?
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    (tiltboy) I am assuming you are asking about the 4.7L V8.

    Using the original equipment is perhaps the cheapest way to go.

    The Denso iridiums are OUTRAGOUSLY expensive and will not do anything extra for you (except lighten your wallett)

    The Bosch +4 seems to be the best compromize because they tend to last longer than the originals. Since changing the sparkplugs in the 4.7L is kindof a "chore" if it is done properly, longer lasting sparkplugs seem like a good idea.

    Lets not forget that Bosch INVENTED the sparkplug and their plugs are better quality than the others. (Nickle plating, special ceramics, better base metals, copper core...etc)

    Some of the other brands (AC, Champion) actually have a "copper" plug and try to tell you is is somthing special..... while BOSCH has used copper in ALL of their sparkplugs for over a decade.
  • ablerusablerus Member Posts: 4
    So, I took my 2000 Dakota in for a 15,000 mile oil change and for the dealer to take a look at the ball joints. I have been having an intermittent problem with a popping/clunking noise coming from the front end especially when I'm cutting to the right.... Well, they couldn't reenact the noise so they found no solution to the problem and of course, no problem. (But that's another story).
    What they did find was a blown shifter seal on top of my tranny. Apparently, there was no warning at the 12,000 mile check up - it "just blew". No explanation other than that could be offered.
    What causes a shifter seal to blow with less than 15,000 miles on the truck? On my 12,000 mile service paper work, I found listed 2 qts. of automatic trans. fluid (I have a stick!) - but that might have been added to the transfer case when they serviced it (does that make sense?).
    Of course the 3 year warranty is up and I need to come up with $744 plus tax to fix this problem.
    Thanks for any input.
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