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Dodge Dakota: Problems & Solutions

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Comments

  • indychapellindychapell Member Posts: 35
    right at 36000 miles on my 2k quad cab. after the rotors were turned and new pads applied brakes as good as new. i also had a little pulsation in the pedel. Brake pads were still ok, but thought it was better to have a brake job done now instead of waiting.
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    I list this code as "P1698 - No Bus Message From TCM." I think this is saying that you have an open bus circuit from the Transmission Control Module (TCM) to the Powertrain Control Module (PCM).

    Is the transmission shifting okay?

    If I learn more I'll message you.

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • ronslakieronslakie Member Posts: 58
    bpeebles - I have been meaning to get back to you but I changed email addresses and have had some trouble posting. I queried Red Line Tech Support for my 2K Dak 4x4, 4.7 5 speed and they advised that either their D4ATF or the C+ATF was acceptable for the transfer case. They also advised that the 75W-90 (with friction modifier) was probably better for the front differential, as you suggested. I bought all the products i need to complete the front differential, manual transmission and transfer case. Now I'll just wait on some warmer weather.

    Ron
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    (ronslakie) Here is a tip on changing the fluid in the front diff.

    Since the clearance from the cover to the frame-crossmember is very tight, It is VERY difficult to fill the front diff. You may consider this.

    1)Drain the front diff using whatever your preference is (suck it out or, pull cover.)
    2) To fill it, utilize the vent hose that plugs into the dif cover and terminates near the battery under the hood.
    Just pull the white-plastic vent off the end of said hose and attach an approprate funnel. Add fluid thru that hose.

    Check the fluid in the normal way by getting under the vehicle and pulling the rubber plug off of the diff cover. (Or fill it thru said hose with the rubber plug out until it starts to flow out.)
  • boilermaker52boilermaker52 Member Posts: 2
    Transmission shifts fine. Check engine light is now intermittent. Must just have a loose connection.
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    Try disconnecting the connectors at the PCM and look for possible signs of corrosion or otherwise poor connections. Then reconnect.

    Best regards,
    Dusty
  • spike50spike50 Member Posts: 481
    As many of you may have done, I changed over to the Bosch 4418 (+4) at +/- 30K (Sept 2002 for me). And all was well for many miles, it seemed at first glance. As we (the '00 4.7L, 5 sp & I) approached 40-45K, I started getting the "impression" that there was a "new" but slight engine vibration developing. I continued with my oil analysis program with every oil and filter change (Mobil 1 5-30W w/ a Mopar filter at +/- 5K intervals). The oil analyses ($13 total) (aluminum, chrome, copper, iron, lead, molybdenum, silicon, sodium, tin and sulfur along with soot, oxidation, nitration, water, antifreeze, and fuel) never indicated that there was anything but normal wear. Therefore, I began to think that this vibration must be because I "bent" something in the engine while dragging a trailer with 2 Honda 4-wheelers (Foremans). You may have remembered my earlier post on the cost of a Mopar remanufactured 4.7L. Now you know why I was doing the research, thinking "Why is this happening to me?".

    I again hauled this trailer with the 4-wheelers in mid-January '04 on a 3 hour drive at +/- 55 mph. The engine rpm related vibration was even more pronounced after this trip but never bad enough to stop driving the truck. The '00 now has 57K on it, which was getting near the 60K plug replacement. The recent oil analysis indicated once again that all wear metals were normal but that there was an alarming amount of gasoline present. Combined with this new revelation, generally deteriorating gas mileage (1-2 mpg) and the improved performance I was now experiencing after changing out the Bosch +4's in our Saturn, I thought, "Could it be the spark plugs?".

    I purchased cheap Autolites ($1.24 ea.) and just finished the job yesterday. That engine rpm related, non-spark plug like vibration is now gone.

    I inspected and marked each Bosch plug's cylinder while replacing them. There was no obvious problems (all cocoa tan, no damaged or missing ground electrodes, the center electrodes are visibly still above the ceramic, no wetness or gasoline smell) with any of the plugs. I can only speculate on why all, some, or one of these plugs are apparently faulty and why that failure masquerades itself as an "off-balance" component failure, not the "classic" erratic misfire. In my mind, I've also ruled out the failure or any of the spark plug firing units since they looked OK and the new plugs apparently are being fired successfully with these same units.

    I know that changing the 4.7L's plugs is a pain and time consuming but it appears to me that the older technology type plugs and/or shorter than 30K intervals are warranted for a restful night's sleep.
  • gjblegjble Member Posts: 23
    Very interesting post about Bosch 4418's. I changed to Bosch about 5000 miles ago. I have not noticed any improvements in performance but have noticed a decline in gas mileage of one or two mpg. You give me food for thought.
  • mopar67mopar67 Member Posts: 728
    You provided a very detailed process and your observations would make a PHd researcher proud!

    Your dedication is envious. I always thought I had good observations on my rigs but I have a long way to go to catch up to you!

    Keep up the good work!
  • bookittybookitty Member Posts: 1,303
    Don, great job, and keen objective observation. Also, quite a bit less expensive that a "rebe."

    Bookitty
  • ronslakieronslakie Member Posts: 58
    spike50 - I have the same setup as you (00, 4.7, 5 speed, Mobil 1) and have 50.5K miles. I have had the Bosch +4 plugs in since 30K miles with no advers effects. The one thing about your post that concerns me is the gas that showed up in the oil analysis. I'm not sure how the plugs would affect that except for possible incomplete combustion and possibly some other problems. It would be interesting to see what your next oil analysis shows. Please keep us posted.

    Ron
    Springfield, VA
  • spike50spike50 Member Posts: 481
    ronslakie - Yeah, I may have done the right thing (for my situation) for the wrong reasons. I had planned to follow-up once I sample again in 5k miles.

    One other point I forgot to mention was that the oil pressure gauge has always read the same (at speed) since 0 miles. It does dip to 50% when idling at a light (can't remember if it did that way back at 0 miles). I didn't research the oil pump or pressure because it didn't seem to matter (always good pressure with no drift over time). I've assumed that low oil pressure would have gone hand-in-hand with high levels of wear metals. Not seeing either, I initially thought that the vibration was from a bent and/or out of balance component.
  • ronslakieronslakie Member Posts: 58
    spike50 - My oil pressure from day one has been exactly how you described yours. I have read several posts on this in different forums and this appears to be the norm from everything I have seen.

    Ron
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    Chrysler engines since the early '50s have used a constant pressure oil pump. Older engines used a a variation of the type used in aircraft engines referred to as a rotor-style. These are not helix-cut gears found on most other designs, but a lobed inner rotor that turns an outer rotor. High output is typical of this design

    The oil pressure indication on the gauge is reflecting the bypass pressure. Because rotor-style pumps have high capacities at lower rpms, you see little or no fluncttuation from high speeds to idle, until the engine is warmed.

    Best regards,
    Dusty
  • indychapellindychapell Member Posts: 35
    While having my routine maintainence done at 36000 miles, had the plugs changed. I know the book says 30000, but truck seemed to be running ok. My mech. put back in original equipment champion plugs. Old plugs didn't look to bad, but it sure seems that the 4.7 is running better than ever, and the gas milage seems to have improved a little also. One thing I'd like to mention, the cooling system was flushed (power flush mach.) and i was amazed at all the corrosion that came out of the system in just 36000 miles. I guess chrysler hasn't improved thier cooling systems since i owned my 71 roadrunner.
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    Gasoline in the oil is indicative of misfire. Even in extreme variations from stoichiometric conditions the fuel and air charge will burn almost completely. A complete misfire, meaning no combustion at all, is usually the culprit when noticeable quantities of fuel are found in the oil. Todays engines are considerably quiet and well balanced. In addition, fuel injection and newer intake manifold designs have significantly reduced the efficiency-robbing effects of manifold inversion, a violent secondary effect of a misfire. A single complete misfire can occur at high speed (high rpm) operation without a noticeable symptom.

    Probably the most common scenario for misfire is at coast down. Modern engine management systems do not allow the throttle to return to the curb idle position during de-accelleration. This is done to reduce emissions. This represents an extremely lean condition. By nature the combustion effectiveness in an internal combustion engine is far more tolerant of rich mixtures. They don't like lean mixtures. At coast down misfires are inperceptible, but can load the cylinder with a lot of fuel that bypasses the rings.

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • livnlrnlivnlrn Member Posts: 76
    Thanks for the suggestions for the heater blower fix. It turned out to be the heater resistor block as some of you mentioned. It also turned out he was covered under warrenty. I thought I posted this thanks earlier but I cannot see it so here it is. Thanks,
    Eric
  • haselhasel Member Posts: 64
    Dusty: great explanation in regards to all the fuel in the oil. hasel
  • sunburnsunburn Member Posts: 319
    I am planning on upgrading the shocks on my 02 QC sometime this spring and I am looking for shocks in the $40 each price ballpark. I've looked at the Rancho RS5000s and the KYB Gas-a-Justs. Anybody has any comments on these or others? I need something that will stand up to the rigors of towing a 4000 lb trailer, yet not have a punishing ride in everyday driving.
  • deminindeminin Member Posts: 214
    re: shocks...
    I have a '97 club cab 4WD, and I put Monroe sensa-trak shocks on it at about 30K. The original front shocks were starting to get a bit sloppy. The Monroe's seem to be doing fine so far, and although they are a bit stiffer than the originals, they are not harsh. And, they sell for a reasonable price.

    re: plugs

    I replaced the original plugs on my 318V8 at about 25K. I used the Bosch platinum (single tip). My gas mileage went up slightly, and the engine continues to run butter smooth at 60K.
  • glzr2glzr2 Member Posts: 70
    Hey all,
    Thought I would pipe in with an FYI. Haven't posted in a while because the truck has been running like a top ('02 4.7L Auto 4x4 QC) It now has over 51,000 on the OD. Here's the FYI

    Took it into the dealer this morning. Told them the front end was sloppy and popping (I knew what was wrong, but wanted documentation from the dealership). The service dept. called a couple hours later and told me they needed to replace both upper ball joints. I told them not to touch it. I immediately called the Chrysler customer service line. After waiting an excruciating eighteen minutes, Tony picked up the call. I explained the following to him;

    1. The truck has been to the dealer twice prior for the same problem

    2. First time the dealer replaced the lower control arms - covered under warranty (I assume the dealer replaced the old cheap one piece control arm/ball joint assembly made by TRW with the new design made by New Castle that allows the ball joints to be serviced without having to replace the control arm)

    2. Second time the dealer replaced the ball joints - covered under warranty

    3. Dealer now wants to charge me $296.00 to replace the upper ball joints since the truck is now out of warranty.

    4. I told Tony that I researched the "Office of Defects Investigation" on the NHTSA website and found that NHTSA has cited that the ball joints are subject to premature wear and can cause unexpected collapse of the front end

    With the above explained to him, I asked Tony "What can Chrysler do for me"? He asked me to hold while he called the dealership. After confirming the situation with the dealership, he offered the following;

    1. The dealership would replace the ball joints and only charge me a $50.00 deductible as if I had a service contract (which I don't)

    2. The replacement parts will have a 12 month unlimited mileage warrant

    I had to do some quick calculations, but $50.00 compared to $296.00 seemed like a decent compromise. Although I am still greatly concerned that the ball joints are now considered routine maintains and need to be replaced ~ every 25k

    I know some have posted similar problems in the past so I thought I would share. It seems that Chrysler is reasonable, and their customer service really is customer service (few are these days) but you have to have patients to wait for someone to pick up.

    Gordon
  • mtrialsmmtrialsm Member Posts: 159
    Dodge is getting more bad news on the CBS News this morning on TV. The Darango and Dakota with
    faulty ball joints were discussed. With 749 complaints against Durango (compared to less than
    15 from GM and Ford owners). Doesn't sound good at all,,,,,
    Again, the dealer replaced upper and lower ball joints on my 2001 Quad at 35K miles. The popping/clunking was from day one. Just the ball joints were replaced not the control arms.
    Now I'm into my extended warr.
    Good luck to all,,,,,I'm a first time Dodge owner and still hope to keep my truck for 5 or 6 more years. I also know many Dakota owners that have come and gone to other brands. They say, "no more Dodge for me,,,," It's back to Toyota or Nissan!!!

    Mick
  • glzr2glzr2 Member Posts: 70
    OK guys/girls.... I'm getting a little frustrated. First, trying to find shocks for my truck (02, 4.7 4wd QC) is a circus. Every where I look, no one carries shocks for the 2000 and up Dak. I found Edelbrock IAS, but that was it. I finally got fed up and ordered the Edelbrocks and I'm sure they are worth the price (bushings must be gold plated or something). The second act of the Dodge circus has been trying to find a service manual for an '02 Dak. What is the deal with Chilton/Hayes???? Nothing on the Dak since '00??? Does anyone know where to get a cheap shop manual??? Not that I need it for the shocks, but for other upgrades/repairs.
  • indychapellindychapell Member Posts: 35
    I heard this morning at work about the situation with the ball joints. Not much specifics. Are there certain years of the DAKOTA that is being talked about.I personally have not experienced any trouble with the front end of my 00 dakota. Are the reports about upper, lower, both? Appreciate any info on this matter.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    Install MOOG balljoints that have grease fittings and never worry again!

    We have known about the "ball joint issue" since the year 2000. It is not a new problem. A warantee may make one FEEL good, but if they continue to install the same junk, why bother?
  • ronslakieronslakie Member Posts: 58
    glzr2 - Neither Chilton nor Haynes is going to be as good as the Factory Service Manual (FSM). They are expensive, I paid $110 for mine (2K) but there are some deals out there on ebay. That is probably a good place to start. The last time I did a Dakota search on ebay I came up with 39 pages of items.

    Ron
  • ronslakieronslakie Member Posts: 58
    Does anybody out there have an Alpine CDA-D857 headunit (1&1/2 Din)? I recently bought one off ebay and got the wiring harness from Crutchfield. I was wondering if there are any installation tips or words of wisdom.

    Ron
    Springfield, VA
  • tiltboytiltboy Member Posts: 63
    Well guys, I have been an avid follower of this board since its inception. I bought a brand new 2000 QC 4.7 5sp 4x4 that has been a very nice truck. While sitting in traffic today, A nice Suburban rear-ended me doing about 45-50. Not much left afterwards. I guess I have to go shopping now, and who knows........Maybe I will decide on another QC! At least I had already dropped off the kids at school. I'm pretty sore and banged up, but I will make it. The truck actually held up pretty good. Air bags deployed, rear window shattered, and my seat bent about 45 degrees backwards. Oh yea, my 5.5 foot bed is only about 2.5. Any word on the 04' Quad cab?

    Thanks, Tiltboy
  • spike50spike50 Member Posts: 481
    tiltboy - Glad to hear that you're all right, considering. It's good that the kids weren't in there when it happened.

    It sounds like all of the damage was above the drive train. I wonder where well maintained 4.7L's end up after something like that?
  • tiltboytiltboy Member Posts: 63
    My truck was well maintained. I think I had 43k easy miles on it. I have to find out what the insurance guy says after he checks it out next week. I was planning on keeping it for the long haul! Now I gotta go pay 30k if I want a new one.......bummer
  • indychapellindychapell Member Posts: 35
    Take a good look at the rebates, and being this time of year, you should be able to get back in a Dak. for a lot less than you think.
  • tiltboytiltboy Member Posts: 63
    I went on the Dodge website, and I found one QC 4x4 within 100 miles of me. Does anyone have information on rebates? It looks like only the models that have the V-6 have a $2500 rebate.
  • spike50spike50 Member Posts: 481
    The Mopar web site states that there is a $3500 cash rebate for Dakotas and $2500 on all of the Rams. It doesn't say if these are for any particular engine package but I guess you already checked it out. I don't know if it's still an option but way back when many of us applied for the $500 (minus a small membership fee) farm vehicle rebate. Some states were offering it but others weren't.

    Kind of interesting side story about farm rebate is that I was invited to all of the local farm meetings, banquets, etc. for the next two years. Also received a 20+ page questionnaire from an US government agency. They were very understanding when I told them that my "farm" was a 30' x 40' garden plot and that I have 100' dia. fish pond for bass, cats, and sunnies.

    Might be an opportunity to go with the longer future life Ram. You might have only had bumper damage from that out of control Suburban.
  • tiltboytiltboy Member Posts: 63
    I guess I will call the local dealerships and find out for sure. I did the Farm Bureau $500 with my Dakota last time. As far as only bumper damage from being in a Ram....I don't think it would have been much better. The guy 2 cars ahead of me got bumper damage in a full size truck. The Suburban was totalled, my truck totalled, and $10,000 to the van in front of me. The guy hit me doing 45mph and I was stopped. No brakes,skid marks or anything. A sherman tank would have gotten bumper damage! hehe
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    Tilt, two weeks ago I came up on an accident where a Chevy Suburban nailed a dark gray Dakota Club Cab in the rear. I don't believe either one was totaled however, but a coincidence nontheless.

    I'm glad there were no serious injuries.

    I don't know why but my local Dodge dealer does not have the Dakota inventory he usually has this time of the year. I was by last week and I'd say he had about sixteen or so on the lot. When I bought mine in October of 2002 they had fifty or better.

    I perceive that there's been a slight change in the demographics of used stuff on his lot, too. They have eight used 2002 RAMs and about twelve or so older year RAMs. It use to be they had much more Ford and GM trade-ins (although they have two used Tundras now!). There's always been a fair amount of used Dakotas on this dealer's lot, a sign that there are Dakota repeat customers.

    Oh, yeah. The latest Consumer Reports lists the 2002 Dakota as "Check Rated," meaning it was above average in reliability for that year truck.

    Good luck,
    Dusty
  • peppepeppe Member Posts: 5
    I have a 2001 Dakota Quad Cab and I have experienced the usual problems. For example, squeaky front bushings and the warped rotors. A problem I have had and seems to be getting worse is a fowl smell (not a sulphur smell) coming form the exhaust after the engine is warmed up. I have tried different gases and it makes no difference. I finally have left it at the dealers and they are going to try to determine what is wrong. They said they haven't heard of this problem. I should know what the verdict is by Wednesday of this week.

    Has anyone else had this problem or heard of it?

    Thanks,
    Dennis
  • tiltboytiltboy Member Posts: 63
    It seems every dealer around had 2wd, but not 4wd. I have found only 3 within 250 miles of me. With a big rebate, and Farm Bureau discount, and an Chrysler employee discount, I might get a good deal! If I can locate one! Any news on problems with the 04' models other than the usual stuff?

    Tilt.....
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    Was yours the 8.25 or the 9.25 axle?

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • spike50spike50 Member Posts: 481
    tiltboy - My father-in-law is a retired employee and that has been a driving factor for me to buy Dodge since 1991. Just can't beat that price. It is truly amazing to see all of the "other" costs that are thrown in to come up with the "rock-bottom" invoice price. Although those costs are taken off, it still gripes me every time I see a car/truck commercial on TV and realize that you're specifically charge to support what you get sick of watching.
  • glzr2glzr2 Member Posts: 70
    Just an update.... the front Edelbrock shocks final arrived (still waiting for the rears). Installing the shocks was easy. The biggest problem I had was with the Craftsman "professional" grade floor jack. I wasted three hours and three trips to Sears.

    I do have a question for anyone who has replaced the front OEM shocks with Edelbrock IAS. At the lower attachment, did you use the provided aluminum spacer between the IAS shock and the arm assembly? The spacer was in a separate bag (inside the box) with it's own assembly diagram, but it was not mentioned in the assembly instructions. I would guess that the spacer is used to provide additional clearance for the shock cylinder (to axle shaft?), but it seems that it would add addition stress to the bolt by increasing the distance between the point of downward force from the shock and the lower arm. Has anyone had a bolt break? Paranoid... yes

    Gordon

    02 4.7 Auto 4wd QC
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    Other than cosmetic changes, I am not aware of any mechanical changes as of yet for 2004. I'm believing that there are little to no differences between '02 to '04s. There have been only few component manufacturer changes between '02 and '03: there was a change to the heater blower fan resistor block ('03). Arvin was added as a supplier for 4.7 exhaust system components.

    That's the only two that I can think of. Every '02 I've looked at was identical to my '03. I haven't examined a 2004 yet.

    Best regards,
    Dusty
  • datagurudataguru Member Posts: 95
    Hi Dusty...

    from a very brief look at the '04s the other day, I recall that the stainless exhaust looks a bit different now. The pipes now appear to be mandrel bent (from start to end) and a new resonator has been added after the muffler section. Also, the end of the tailpipe is now straight-cut as compared to the previous slash-cut. The other external change that I noticed is that the Sport model now comes standard with a bright grill. There could be other changes...but, need to examine further. Perhaps, this is only in Canada???

    dataguru
  • sunburnsunburn Member Posts: 319
    Well, at 40K miles, the brake rotor and/or drums on my 02 QC are shot. The pads and shoes are like new, but the truck shakes quite a bit under braking. When braking from high speeds (>50 mph), the the back of the truck appears to shake up and down a lot. This lasts for a couple of seconds then fades away. As I come to a stop, there is pulsating in the pedal and wobbling in the steering wheel and a "grab-release-grab" sensation. The back end shake seems similar to my old Toyota pickup when it had out of round drums. All of this has started in the last 5K miles.

    I should probably head down to Midas/Meineke and get my suspicions confirmed. Advance Auto has Raybestos rotors, drums, and pads available. Anyone have any experience with their parts? Powerslot rotors would be nice, but are not in the budget right now.
  • dmoulddmould Member Posts: 76
    I finally ordered a 2004 Dakota after years of reading these posts. I really hope Dodge has corrected the ball joint problem. I also hope the 4-wheel disk brakes address the front rotor issue, and doesn't turn into a 4-wheel rotor issue!
    My 2001 Ranger Supercab 4x4 has come to the end of it's lease, and has treated me reasonably well. The only issues I had were the check engine light twice, as well as an air bag light once. All of them involved censor changes under warranty. The dealer also replaced all 4 ball joints (with the a-arms) under warranty at about 50,000km, but there wasn't any looseness in the front end. With the 4.0 SOHC engine, manual transmission, 4.10 gears, I got about 16-17 USmpg in everyday mixed driving, with a high of 20mpg on one tank.
    I have orders a 2004 Club Cab 4x4, 4.7L manual with 3.55 gears, loaded in Patriot Blue. Hopefully, the fuel econonmy won't be much different from what I was getting in my Ranger, as 80% of my driving is highway. Get to pick it up in 8 weeks!!!
  • haselhasel Member Posts: 64
    I replaced the front brakes on my 2001 Q cab with the Raybestos Rotors and the Raybestos Ceramic pads, after 11000 miles the rotors where warped and the pads where in the process of seperating from the baking plate, replaced rotors with the Brembo Rotors and reused the OEM pads.so far have not had anymore brake problens,
  • rbrubakerrbrubaker Member Posts: 54
    The biggest difference that I know of is that the 2004 has the 3.7 engine. About 30+ more housepower. It has some pickup, once you get the revs up there.
  • dmoulddmould Member Posts: 76
    What year were the rear discs added? Is that an '04 difference as well?
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    The 2003s had rear discs if the vehicle was rated over 6400 GVW. Also, many of the SXT models had them.

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • philvphilv Member Posts: 1
    My 2000 QC factory alarm is not working properly. When I press the lock button on the door or key fob the alarm dash light activates and the horn beeps, but the panic alarm does not work. If I roll the window down and set the alarm then open the door from the inside the alarm just resets and the flashing red light in the dash disappears, no horn or lighs flashing. I am unable to locate the alarm relay in the vehicle. Help.... Phil
  • scruplekscruplek Member Posts: 33
    Have a 2001 model. Took it to dealer for reg maintenance. They did a coolant flush and put green coolant in it. Several months later my heater core went out. I questioned why happened so soon. They said that that just happens these days. Plus, I had gone over mileage to get my next flush and to qualify for warranty should not have gone over mileage. Wanted $800 to fix it. Took it to private mechanic who says that they put the wrong coolant in it.....should have been orange coolant and that caused the heater core to go out. What do I do????? I paid to get it fixed at private mechanic because he had already torn the dash apart and all. Do I have any recourse with the dealer???? I have the receipt for the flush.
    Thanks
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