Dodge Dakota: Problems & Solutions

dustyk · May 2004

First, did you buy this vehicle from a dealer?

The idling is about right for a 287 (4.7) motor. They typically idle at 525-575 warm with no defrost or air conditioning enabled. Certain things will raise the idle:

*cold cycle start

*restart for 60 seconds

*selection of any defrost mode

*air conditioning engaged

*battery voltage drop enough to initiate a heavy charge

As to the transmission symptom, a few questions:

1. Does this symptom change with temperature?

2. As the transmission goes through the upshifts with light to moderate acceleration, what is the shift quality? Anything you would judge to be unusually harsh?

3. Does the transmission make any unusual noises?

4. Do all the segments of the transmission gear selector illuminate or are there any other malfunctioning instrument cluster lamps?

5. Are there any codes stored in the computer?

There are a number of things that could cause this. I'm assuming that you have the 545RFE transmission. This model is all electronic. There are no bands. All shifts and internal operating conditions are controlled by the Transmission Control Module (TCM), which on a Dakota is part of the Power Control Module (PCM).

Off hand this could be the result of low transmission fluid, the incorrect transmission fluid, a dirty valve body or solenoid control pack. Batteries that are approaching death have exhibited strange problems on Dakotas with the 545RFE.

If the battery terminal voltage drops below a certain point, even for a second, you could be in the Learn Mode, which will make some shifts seem irratic for a while. In this case I don't believe you have a clogged filter, although on the 545RFE there are two. I'm not sure what the symptoms are if the second filter is clogged. Problems with the 545RFE are truly rare and my local talent hasn't seen enough problems with them yet to have much experience.

My recommendation is to have a Chrysler technician look at this immediately. If you bought this from a dealer you should still be under warranty. At 62,000 miles it might be time for a transmission drain, flush and new filters. This transmission will only take ATF+4 fluid. Do not use ever use Dexron-Mercon in this transmission.

Best regards,
Dusty

arrangerguy · May 2004

Its not the smoothest shifting transmission, i know that. But im not sure if im overanalyzing. When im under normal acceleration...it shifts from first to second alright, but second to third sometimes is a little rough, and once im in third sometimes the tranny feals 'weak', and when im going to slow down...once i get inbetween 3rd and 2nd gear...it feels like its kinda sticking, and the vehicle doesnt wanna slow down unless i use the brake...what do you think?

dustyk · May 2004

>>>it tends to stick when im trying to slow down, and inbetween 2nd/3rd when shifting, it kinda seems like its grabbing<<<

The 4.7s I've driven with the 545RFE have all been exceptionally smooth. In fact that's has actually been a criticism of some. The 545RFE is fully "adaptive," meaning that the transmission will continually update the shifting pattern based on how you drive. A computer builds an algorithm based on a certain number of shifting sequences.

When you change your driving habits it takes a number of sequences to update the program. I have experienced this myself. I normally drive sedately. I've had a few occasions when more aggressive throttle seemed unresponsive. But the next time its fine.

I am confused a little about the actual symptom. I thought you were experiencing a premature downsift into first when coming to a stop. Your last message makes it sound a little different, or I'm just not reading your meaning very well. After reading your last, it almost sound as if the torque converter isn't unlocking at coast down.

My suggestion is to take it back to the dealer and have him road test it.

Best regards,
Dusty

sunburn · May 2004

I'm going to be replacing my front rotors in the next couple of weeks and I was wondering what type of bit (hex or Torx) and size is required to remove the caliper bolts? Thanks.

dustyk · May 2004

Sunburn,

My Dakota service manual doesn't state what size or type the caliber sliding bolts are, but one picture indicates its a hex head. In all likeihood it metric.

Best regards,
Dusty

ron35 · May 2004

sunburn - I believe the hex size wrench needed for caliper bolt removal is 7MM.

Ron

johnny0 · May 2004

I've read through a few posts (new to edmunds) and see that vibrating brakes and rough shifting seem to be common problems.

From what I gather, I need new brake rotors for the constantly vibrating brakes.

The Tranny issue, though (slams in and out of gear AND sometimes prematurely downshifts to 1st gear when braking)...what is the solution?

My truck also has an issue searching for an idle to the brink of stall, but never does....of course the dealer dismisses this as "normal"...yeah, the normal runaround.

2001 Quad Cab Sport 4x4 4.7 v8

arrangerguy · May 2004

your rotor issues, are normal...im putting oversized rotors and ceramic pads on mine...and the tranny, who knows...everyone tells me its a solid tranny...so my guess would be to bring it to your local tranny shop and have them check it out...and as far as the idle goes...i have the same problem...its unfortunate...i just keep the defroster on all the time...that way it idles around 750...with it off it idles at 500...people are telling me you can go to the dodge dealership and get a "flash" for the pcm, which will eliminate this problem. I dont know much about the dakota line yet, but thats what i can tell ya

good luck

bpeebles · May 2004

The "slamming" from Drive to Reverse is often caused by sloppy Ujoints. My dak needed new Ujoint at the rear of the driveshaft before the 50K mile warantee was up. (Dealer covered it 8-)

dustyk · May 2004

Johnny,

You didn't state how many miles you had on this vehicle, but since it's a 2001 it might be time to maintenance the transmission: filter replacement and fluid flush.

As I've advised before, do not install Dexron-Mercon in that transmission (since you have the 4.7, you probably have the 545RFE). There are two filters used on this tranny and the only fluid that should be used is ATF+4.

There were a couple of PCM (computer) flashes issued since 2001. As Arranger mentioned, there's one to raise the idle and another to change the shift program schedule in the transmission.

I would strongly advise meeting with your service manager and tell him you've heard about PCM flashes to correct these issues. If nothing else, get it on record in case of a future warranty claim.

Best regards,
Dusty

sunburn · May 2004

Thanks Dusty and Ron. It is a 7 mm hex bit. Now if I can find 2 hours to put on my new Brembo rotors and EBC brake pads, I'll be all set.

dustyk · May 2004

What did you have to give for the Brembo rotors and where'd you get them?

Dusty

sunburn · May 2004

Dusty,

I got a set of the plain Brembo rotors through the Tire Rack for $50 each. The slotted Brembos were over $200 for a pair.

slickwilliedj · May 2004

repost 2760,2763,and 2779

Is it possible to change the fluid by pumping the old fluid out thru the fill plug instead of totally removing the entire case. whats your option?

thanks,
pat

dustyk · May 2004

Pat,

While there is a cost savings by not providing a drain plug, the real reason why one hasn't been provided in cars and light duty trucks since the '40 & '50s is because the differential case should be inspected and totally cleaned of all debris found inside. Suctioning of the lubricant through the fill hole, while more convenient, would not permit removing metal debris that settles on the bottom.

If metal particles remain in the differential assembly they will be picked-up by moving lubricant, dispersed throughout the flow and end up damaging side gears and the ring and pinion. This will eventually lead to noise or failure of the rear axle.

Doing it right is to remove the differential cover to drain and throughly clean the entire internal area of the case.

Best regards,
Dusty

ron35 · May 2004

Pat - I agree with Dusty. Once you remove that differential cover and spray that area with brake cleaner you end up with a totally clean differential. This is bound to be better than the contaminants you would leave behind by pumping the old fluid out. Taking the cover off is not as difficult as it might sound. I have saved several posts over the last few years concerning this, I can send them to you off line if it will help.

Ron

sunburn · May 2004

Got my Brembo rotors and EBC 6000 brake pads installed today. The braking is smooth again and the new pads have much more bite than the OEMs.

The back side of the old rotors were blistered looking and rusty. About 1/3 to 3/4 of the surface was blistered looking and several areas had "popped" and were just plain rust. It looked like the rotor was rusting from the inside out. I've never seen anything like this before on a rotor. I wonder how much it contributed to the warping. So much for Bosch quality. I'll have to see how the Brembo's hold out.

dustyk · May 2004

I've seen a fair amount of rusted rotors. Some years ago I ran across a few where a chunk of rotor actually rusted off on GM "X" cars and later Celebrity series. Of course, after it falls off and the brakes are applied the pads get ripped right off.

My wife's Avalon rusts on the inside as well, but there's no sign they're rusting from the inside out.

I haven't found it necessary to pull the rotors off of mine. Is there an indication that they are Bosch? I know the rear drums on my '03 are Bosch.

Keep us informed on how the Brembo's work out for you.

Regards,
Dusty

sunburn · May 2004

Dusty,

The rotors are stamped with "BOSCH" on the back near where the minimum thickness is stamped. The think that always surprises me with the Dakota's front rotors is how small they are. Seems like there is plenty of room for them to be 1-1.5" larger in diameter, especially with the 16" wheels.

I know the rear drums are Bosch as well.

The OEM pads were holding up well. About 75% left after 43K miles.

dustyk · May 2004

Sunburn,

I suspected that in '03 the rotors and the drums were from Bosch. The Dakota received "upgraded" brake materials in '01. Prior to that I have been informed that Chrysler bought rotors and drums from Cleveland Forge, Kelsy-Hayes, ATE, Canadian Curtis-Wright, TRW, among a few others.

I noticed that Power Slot states that their rotors are from "OEM castings" on their home page, and another internet auto parts supplier states they are made in Italy or the US. OEM casting doesn't tell alot since there are probably six companies in North America casting them as OEM. Metalurgy is important in a better rotor.

I'm not sure what the country of origin is for the Brembos.

As I mentioned in an earlier note, in all respects mine have been good up to now (25K) but that last week I picked up a "bump" in braking. I'm sure the rotors are not warped since I do not get the typical pulsing. I first suspected scuzz, but when I checked they were fairly clean. So I might have quenched them when they were hot by hitting them with cold water after a hot run.

Whatever it is I've tried to scrap them off by over-applying the brakes a few times. It is better, but it hasn't gone away yet. Like yours the pads on mine are like 75-85% still there.

I'm hearing guys talk about carbon-fiber pads working and not working. My independent auto tech, a close family friend, has no faith in the Power Slots and says they develop problems just as quickly as factory. He recommended Raybestos, but then again he carries the line, so there might be some bias there. I think I will consider Mopar replacement pads when I do the brakes. They seem to be long-lived and problem free. As to rotors, I'm not sure which way I'll go.

A neighbor of mine has developed a philosophy on brake rotors that has merit. He buys cheap aftermarket replacement for his Ford Explorer, Camry, and F150. He just replaces them every 20-25K or when they develop a problem. He says its just cheaper and they relatively easy to replace.

He might be right.

Best regards,
Dusty

sunburn · May 2004

For what it's worth, Brembos are made in Italy.

hasel · May 2004

Dusty: I tried the Raybestos Rotors (76645) and PGD820QS pads, the rotors where warped after 8000 miles and the linings where seperating fron the backing plate, am now using Brembo Rotors, Hasel

cparkes1 · May 2004

greetings to all.its been 2 yrs since all you folks helped me solve my last problem. new problem is the check engine light comes on ,this item has been serviced now 5times showing an air leak , ie. gas cap left off, bad regulator valve etc. all items were replaced but problem keeps coming back. truck is a 2000 dodge club cab ,3.9 v6 with approx 62000 miles and of course is out of warranty. they now think there might be a pin hole in the system somewhere. any thoughts or ideas would be appreciated. regards cookie

rbrubaker · May 2004

Are Dakotas easily broken into? My 2004 was boken into yesterday at my wife's work. There was no signs of a break in other than the loose change missing, and items missplaced in the interior. There are finger prints at the sliding rear window, but I can't imagine they could force it open without breaking anything.

Maybe she bumped the keyfob to unlock the truck while putting in her purse? The only thing missing was some loose change. Maybe it was considerate homeless person who didn't want to damage my truck?

Anyone else have any experiences with their Dakota being broke into?

Thanks,
Bob

bookitty · May 2004

Bob, here are "some" of the things my wife has accomplished while putting her remote back into her handbag.
1 Inadvertently opened the tailgate window on her 4Runner.
2 Unlocked her car via remote while I ran out into the snow or rain, only to re-lock it just as I got there.
3 Locked my Dakota sitting in our garage while loading up her handbag to go to school.
4 Unlocked her 4Runner at the mall as she went in to shop.
5 This is only the tip of the iceberg. Whenever I bring any of this to her attention, she and her girlfriend start to giggle, leaving me to conclude that there have been many more little numbers of which I am unaware.
6 She now has only the key to my Quad, and not the remote.

Bookitty

rbrubaker · May 2004

So, I'm not alone. :^)

Thanks,
Bob

dustyk · May 2004

I'm usually carrying either my notepad folder or other items and I seem to be constantly unlocking and relocking the Dakota while fumbling for my keys.

I've inadvertently hit the panic button by just stuffing the fob and keys into my pocket. And lately I keep second guessing myself on whether I've locked it at all, so I hit the remote again as I'm walking away.

My wife will occasionally hit the remote with the door open on her Avalon. This vehicle has the full security system, and in that condition it makes a high-pitched tone which is routine sensitive in order to get it to stop.

Dusty

dustyk · May 2004

The thumping I've been getting in the brakes appears to be scuzz related. As I mentioned earlier I hit the wheels with cold water within minutes of completely a long drive. I thought I had quenched them but with the constant stopping in the last few days its diminished quite a bit.

I looked at the rotors today and noticed the mother of all pad rust outlines in both of them. I now remember that the day I washed the truck and thought I quenched them was two full days before I drove it again. So with the pads sitting in one spot on each rotor they really got to rusting.

Anyway, the thump is almost gone but I was wondering if a set of PowerSlots or Brembo's were in my immediate future.

Regards,
Dusty

bookitty · May 2004

Dusty;so, you're the guy who has been causing all of this trouble. And here I've been placing the blame on my bride.

Bookitty

dustyk · May 2004

Book,

Hey, trouble is my middle name!

Of course, if you were my age these things would happen to you, too.

Bests,
Dusty

bookitty · May 2004

Dusty, the only way I would have a chance to get to your age, would be if you were 72. Going backwards from age 71 completely eludes me.

Bookitty

sunburn · May 2004

I put a SS exhaust tip on my Dak a couple of years ago and it has slowly getting discolored. It has numerous blue and brown spots on it, which appear to be from the exhaust heat. It isn't rust. Is there any way to remove these? I've tried hand rubbing some metal polish on it, but it didn't appear to do anything. Maybe it needs machine polishing?

dustyk · May 2004

Sunburn,

Stainless steel surface condition is usually returned by abrasion. For excessively rusted or pitted surfaces, a medium or heavy grit material might be necessary, then followed by a fine compound. I've used a Brillo pad on stainless before with good results.

I don't know what to tell you about the blue discoloration. That's nothing I've run across before.

Bests,
Dusty

bookitty · May 2004

Todd, Dusty, there is a product called, Simachrome (sic) that I used to remove bluing from the pipes on my motorcycles. It comes in a tube like toothpaste, and is made in Germany. It is available through motorcycle shops as well as some auto parts and accessory stores (Pep Boys, etc.). It is certainly worth a try.

Bookitty

spike50 · June 2004

I don't know if anyone else has gotten the sense that their Quad (mine is a '00) is putting on some girth. I recently put the soft tonneau cover back on and it was a tighter fit than before. I had to wait for the sun to warm it up before I was able to snap the last few along the tailgate as well as the one side.

Since February, I started driving my son's Saturn (38 mpg) instead of the truck (3 yr suspension). I guess the way the tonneau barely fits anymore is a by-product of the truck's sitting around day after day. I did take it out turkey hunting (unsuccessful) but the gas pipeline right-of-way is now gated so we couldn't get a real work-out.

Any suggestions?

spike50 · June 2004

I'm starting to get tired of hosing every vehicle off before using it in the mornings. These 17 yr cicadas are as thick as flies on crap right now. The birds must be gorging on them because there are half eaten bodies coating everything (cars & trucks too).

The live ones are flying around too and sort of freak you out when they land on you, which always happens. Glad they don't bite.

Another side benefit is that the mole population will die down now that their abundant underground food supply has hatched. Those moles have really torn up the yards this year.

slickwilliedj · June 2004

I had a similar problem about two years ago and the dealer did what they call a "SMOKE TEST" and from what I understand this test fills all the emission related lines hoses etc etc with smoke which enables them to find a leak if there is one. In my case after about 5 visits prior to this test for the MIL light (aka ck engine) it was determined that the fuel take was not holding pressure upon start up while the system runs it test. thus causing the mil light to turn on.

Funny I see this post because last week upon starting my truck to embark on a memorial day trip to orlando the MIL light was on. Now it seams these trucks are very sensitive with the fuel cap and about 4 days prior I did fill up and always make sure I tighten it well and make sure its sitting correctly on the threads. The only thing different I did I dont usually do was turn the key to backwards to the accessory position to listen to some tunes while I pump my $40.00 worth of fuel. According to my mechanic this could have caused the mil light to come on and or the fuel cap not being on correctly. Its also my understanding from the info I learn with this problem that the computer will actually run several tests and store/ hide the code and only give the go ahead for the mil light after several times it sees the same problem....

The good news for me is after driving the truck on the trip over 500 miles and several start ups as of 2 days ago the light is off!
So it will reset it self after awhile. How many specific start ups and miles u need to drive for this to occur I dunno but my guess is about 600 miles and or 10 - 15 start ups which the computer would count as cycles and cks the system each time untill it no longer sees the problem ..... good luck hope this info helps u

cparkes1 · June 2004

cheryl parkes re engine check light. don;t know about the smoke test or the computer reseting itself after 600 miles as i have done a 3200 mile trip and the day i got back home the lite came back on. anyway after removing all emission related lines and pressuring them with air and observing wthe system had no leaks it was detirmined that another solonoid shuttle valve is the culprit and had to be ordered. it has now been a week and numerous short trips and start cycles and the light has not yet came on so i am reluctant to go back &put the new valve on.

edunnett · June 2004

I know I'm resurrecting an ancient discussion here but this was very helpful... or I HOPE it WILL be. I'll be changing the brake pads and rotors on my husband's 2001 Dakota today (and tomorrow maybe also) and just wondering if anyone is watching this board this weekend to assist in the event that I run into a problem. I'm planning on following a mixture of the instructions on the following sites, with bpeeples Dakota-specific notes. It sounds really easy but I've never changed brakes before. Mostly, those calipers look confusing. Anyway, is anyone out there that has experience changing the Dakota brakes that can be my technical support? :-)
Thanks in advance. By the way, I may also take digital photos if anyone is interested in seeing after I'm done - just don't have a place to post them. -elissa
http://www.edmunds.com/ownership/howto/articles/43787/article.htm- l
http://www.advanceautoparts.com/howtos_tips/automedia_html/ccr/cc- r20021101db/index.html?page=/howtos_tips/automedia_html/ccr/ccr20- 021101db/ccr20021101db.htm
http://autorepair.about.com/cs/doityourself/a/aa090300a.htm

dustyk · June 2004

Yep. I'll be here.

Just do one side at a time. This way you have one side in the completely assembled condition as a point of reference. I've done a couple of thousand brake jobs in my life and I still do it that way, unless it's a vehicle I'm very familar with.

Dusty

dustyk · June 2004

Were you getting a "P" code?

Dusty

edunnett · June 2004

Dusty,
Thanks so much! I think you helped me out last time I was playing weekend mechanic! :-) Anyway, I've got the truck safely jacked up, the front wheels removed (this is a RWD truck btw) with calipers and rotors exposed. I successfully found the 7mm allen wrench bolt do-hickeys that bpeeples was refering to with a bit of effort since they are in the back and tracked down the proper wrench. So now I have the two caliper retaining bolts removed from one wheel. I'm now having the damndest time trying to figure out what to do next! He says "Releave pressure on caliper with some hand-pressure. There is a keeper-spring that has to be coaxed off the outside of the caliper." I don't know wether to push in or pull out and on what? Is this where I need the c-clamp? I'm afraid my c-Clamp may be too small. arg. Sorry for the dumb question! I tried pulling and pushing on the caliper but not very hard, nothing seemed to want to move. How do I remove this spring and is it under a lot of tension that may snap at me? There doesn't seem to be a bolt or anything keeping the spring-like looking arms in place.
Thanks Dusty!!!
Elissa

bpeebles · June 2004

I try to read Edminds and several other Vehicle websites a couple times a day. I have been doing my own brake work for at least 20 years.

The toughest part I found in replacing the front rotors was trying to REMOVE the old ones that were thoroughly rusted onto the hubs.

Once the sliders are loosened (no need to remove, but OK if you do) the caliper then comes off the rotor latterally. Again, if some of the pressure is releaved by pushing the piston in, the caliper should come off with little effort.

bpeebles · June 2004

NO, this is not where the C-clamp is used. (but can be used at that ping in lieu of using hand-pressure to releave pressure on pads from hydrolic system.)

Those spring-things are held im place by their own pressure.

edunnett · June 2004

:-) Ok that WAS a stupid question! Spring pried off with plyers, no snap-in-my-face action so I was happy. Got both the inside and outside pads off the caliper with a little effort... moving on to the next steps... -elissa

sunburn · June 2004

I just completed front pads and rotors a couple of weeks ago. The outer retainer clip pops off after some gentle prying with a screwdriver. It is much easier to get out than back in! I had to do a little prying on the calipers with a large screwdriver to get them loosened up. Then they came right off. The rotors are probably rusted onto the hub. I found a large hammer (I used a 2.5 pounder) is required. Hit the rotor several times from behind (don't hit the dust shield). Then rotate the rotor about 90 deg. and repeat. Keep doing this until the rotor is loose. A large C-clamp is needed to push the piston back into the caliper.

When installing the new rotors, make sure the hub surface and corrsponding surface on the rotor are both clean. Also, clean the rotor surfaces with brake cleaner to remove the protective coating and any dirt/grease from your hands. Install the pads in the caliper and reinstall the caliper. Torque the bolts to the proper amount. Finally, install the outer retainer clip. Insert one end into the hole in the caliper and with a small screwdriver pry the other end into its hole as much as you can. At this point you might have to tap the clip in the rest of the way with a small punch and hammer. It's kind of tricky. I spent about 10 min getting the first retainer spring back in. The second one took about a minute. Three hands would be very helpful here.

edunnett · June 2004

*sigh* another question! Thanks bpeebles for helping also! :-) I got the old pads off. I hammered at the rust rotor until that got pried off also. Now I guess I'm supposed to push the piston back to the open position so I can fit the new pads between the caliper sides? Uh, Is the piston that rubbery cylinder coming out of the center inside of the caliper? I'm not getting how that's supposed to push in to be flush with anything. -e

sunburn · June 2004

Yes, that is the caliper piston. It is a metal cylinder with a rubber seal around the edge (don't damage this rubber seal!). Place your C-clamp around the caliper such that the adjustable end is over the center of the piston. Tighten the C-clamp until it goes down into the piston. Continue to tighten until the piston is pushed back into the caliper. It will be obvious when it is all the way in. Be sure to check your brake fluid resevoir so that the fluid does not overflow as a result of pushing the piston back in.

dustyk · June 2004

Elissa, as you are looking at the caliper assembly from the underside (where the pads went) you should see what appears to be a rubber gasket called the dust boot. This dust boot is surrounds the end of the piston.

As the pads wear the piston continues to move out of the piston bore. The piston must be moved back into the caliper. You do not have to open the brake bleeder to do this. They sometimes require a lot of hand pressure to be moved back into the caliper, or even a C-clamp or some other tool.

If you require a C-clamp make sure you use some flat object to lay across the full face of the piston. This will ensure even pressure and prevent damage to the lip of the dust boot.

Best regards,
Dusty

dustyk · June 2004

Egads, yes....as Sunburn adds you need to remove the master cylinder cap because as the pistons are pushed back into the piston bore the brake fluid will go back into the master cylinder. If you haven't added any brake fluid you wouldn't need any other precaution. But if you have added fluid then you will overflow the resevoir in the master cylinder.

Dusty

Dodge Dakota: Problems & Solutions

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Dodge Dakota: Problems &amp; Solutions

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Dodge Dakota: Problems & Solutions