Dodge Dakota: Problems & Solutions

dustyk · October 2004

I've got nearly 33K on my factory rotors and pads ('03 Club Cab Sport). The 2003s and '04s got a different rotor and front brake configuration. Older Dakotas seemed to be more of a problem, but a lot has to do with your style of driving. I've had guys with '97-'02s say they've gotten 45-60K on their rotors. Other do not.

As far as pads go I think you'll find the factory pads to be among the best.

Good luck,
Dusty

yoshio · October 2004

I've got 58,000 miles on my rotors and pads. If it wasn't for my bad hearing,(grinding metal on metal-scored rotor) I'd probably could have resurfaced the rotors and replaced only the pads.
Funny thing was when I first got this truck (used 2001 with 20,000 miles, auto 4.7 club cab), it started the vibrations at 30,000 miles. At that same time I had an unrepairable flat tire (nail in the sidewall). I decided to change all four tires. The pulsing and vibrations eventually disappeared...weird???

popdaddy · October 2004

It's amazing how fast you go through 40 good trips. I replaced the cap on Tuesday and figured I'd do the disconnect Saturday. Friday on the way home from work the light was out.

dustyk · October 2004

Yoshio,

Early this summer my rotors got scuzzed up and caused a lot of brake chatter from a lot of stop and go driving during a very rainy period. i thought I'd have to change the rotors out even though they had lots of thickness yet. After driving it around for a couple of weeks the chatter finally went away and they've been factory smooth ever since.

Different people have different stories on the various aftermarket rotors. Some have had good luck and others bad. For the price, I think, I'll probably go with the factory rotors. I can get them from my Dodge dealer for $90 a piece, after my discount.

My pads are wearing very well, with well over 70% of pad life left at 33K. I at one time looked into ceramics but the majority of the people I've talked to have not been satisfied with them, although none of them have had a Dakota or Durango.

Best regards,
Dusty

bpeebles · October 2004

I think somone is confusing a "scuzzy" rotor with a "warped" one. Most of the folks here on thie forum that actually KNEW about the condition of ther rotors have spoken of "hard spots" or "scuzz" built up on parts of the rotor. This will make the braking-action feel a bit like a "warped" rotor, but the brake-pedal DOES NOT PULSE in this situation.

A "warped" rotor will make the brake-pedal pulse and can be verified using a mechanics tool to actually measure the runout.

I can say with certainty that my original rotors were made from such cr$ppy materal that they rusted into oblivioun. (But NEVER warped.) Then... my powerslots also rusted so they were not salvagable. (But NEVER warped.)

The powerslots FELT like they were warped beacuse of the rough, uneven surface that the pads had to work against. Again, the brake-pedal never pulsed and the rotors spec-out with minimal runout.

Keep in mind that I live where copious amouts of chloride is spread on the roads to melt the snow&ice. This gets all over an automobile as it is driven thru the resulting salt-water on the roadways. This atmosphere is corrosive to any metal. (Many vehicles get rust holes in the body within 6-8 winters under these conditions.)

dustyk · October 2004

Scuzzy rotor conditions can or will get better on their own, or with a little help from mechanical clean-up. A warped rotor can be ground or lathe turned back to true-ness, within reason of course. Moderate to severe hard spots, however, can generally not be corrected through mechanical means.

I, too, live where road salts and other chemicals are used on winter time roads, so rotor life is usually shorter around here on most vehicles. My wife's Avalon seems to have a voracious appetite for rotors, although her driving style contributes considerably to short life. Our GM vehicles were anywhere from good to atrocious. My '93 Nissan Sentra went it's entire 10-year, 121k mile life with the original rotors, although they had a propensity for pitting.

Best regards,
Dusty

spike50 · October 2004

Recently, I've gotten an intermittent screeching noise upon start-up and for the next 10 miles or so on my '00 4.7L QC. I've traced it down to whenever the AC clutch engages. I removed the clutch plate and noticed that only 1/2 the plate shows the wear of contact (shiny metal). The other 1/2 is rusty. The clutch plate is flat (lays flat on a piece of glass). I can't tell if the shaft is bent. When fully assembled, the clutch and attached AC pump shaft move freely. When the clutch engages the drive pulley (electromagnetic force), there's no holding it back.

Maybe the 1/2 worn clutch face is a "red herring" since one can not stop the clutch plate from turning when called to engage. It maybe the AC pump that is going bad and causing the squeek-squeek while rotating.

Plenty of cold air when the AC is on.

spike50 · November 2004

I officially checked the air temp and got 4 deg C (39 deg F) on "AC Max" at the center panel and 6 deg C (43 deg F) on the "Reg AC" setting all with an ambient temp of 14 deg C (57 deg F).

BOB says that the max allowable temp at the center panel is 3 deg C (38 deg F) with an ambient temp of 21 deg C (70 deg F).

From all of that, it might indicate that the AC system has lost some gas and lubricating oil. This might be allowing the AC compressor to eat itself up - sqecking noise that eventually goes away.

yoshio · November 2004

First off, I'd like to thank Bruce, Dusty and Klaus for your help.

Being that I've never done this before, I did a lot of research in this forum. Thanks to Bruce's step by step instructions, it went pretty smooth. Well almost....

After doing the first wheel,(I better get my hearing checked...the rotor was in pretty bad shape) and partially the second (removed caliper and rotor), I took a lunch break. When I came back, I started pushing the piston back into the caliper (this one seemed harder than the first). I had forgotten to uncap the reservoir for this side. So the question is "Did I screw up anything?" I'm not aware of any leaks. The reservoir looks like there are stress marks at the corners??? Could be imagining this? I hope this doesn't lead to another repair. My brakes seem to be working fine.

Anyway, I ended up using the Raybestos 76645 rotor (sorry Klaus, this was my only option due to time constraints) and Raybestos quiet stop ceramic pads.

Thank you again for all your help.
Craig

p.s.
I was talking to this parts guy and asked him about the Napa ceramix pads...he said Raybestos made them.

labull · November 2004

2001 4.7 QC AT FWD

When I put the vent selector to floor the air momentarily goes to floor and then to panel. Behind the dash I can feel the mechanism moving. It pauses at the proper setting and then moves on.

Any idea how to adjust this?

While I was checking under the dash I discovered a Red pull out switch of sorts beside at tube/cable that was in a notch. They're located just to the right of the steering column on the lower lip of the dash.

Any idea what this is?

Thanks!

dustyk · November 2004

>>>I had forgotten to uncap the reservoir for this side. So the question is "Did I screw up anything?"<<<

Probably not. And I don't think the "cracks" were caused by stress from pushing fluid back into the reservoir.

Bests,
Dusty

bcarter3 · November 2004

'01 CC, 4.7, auto, 25,236 miles. About a week ago the MIL came on and a code P0442(evap leak detected) was set. I checked the gas cap and erased the code. Each day at the first start the code would set again. I checked all hoses and examined the gas cap again. Finally I got a new gas cap and the problem was solved. When I dissected the old cap I found that it was full of rust that was clogging up the valves. The strange part was that there are very few metal parts in the cap. I think several people have mentioned replacing gas caps to correct the "evap leak" problem.

leob · November 2004

The truck is parked and the passenger side floorboard gets a lot of water and the driver side gets a little less. Can't tell where it's coming from. Only the bottom of the floorboard gets wet. Door seals look OK. No sign of a windshield leak. Help please.

indychapell · November 2004

I've not seen this one on the sights yet,but last week had to take my truck in and have the u-joints changed out. Back one was just about gone. Still not bad for a 2000 with almost 44,000 miles on it. Besides a brake job and regular maintainence the truck has been great.

bpeebles · November 2004

Your story about your 2000 Dak is about the same as mine. I have over 60K miles on mine with 2 brake-replacements and a rear U-joint.

NOTE: If you have not allready done so. Consider changing your power-steering fluid soon. The 2000 Dak came with 'normal' PS fluid...but starting in 2001, Dodge changed over to specifiying SYNTHETIC PS fluid. (even for your 2000)

I just changed my PS fluid to RedLine brand, I can allready tell the difference. On cold mornings, I can actually steer my truck without having Popye forearms ;-)

gtownguy · November 2004

Hello all, I've got a 01 QC 4.7 and was wondering what type of antifreeze to use. It seems to be confusing. The manual says they use a long life product. What type should I add and what type should I flush and fill with. The prestone site is a little confusing.
Thanks
Tom.

bcarter3 · November 2004

Water leaks can be hard to find. I have had to locate and repair three on my '01 CC. One of the leaks was at the top of the windshield on the passenger side. The water was running down the headliner (plastic base), down the "A" pillar and under the rug. I found it by removing the kick panel first and working my way up. I also had a floorboard seam leak and water entering around the a/c evap drain tube. Some owners have had rear windows leaking. Good luck,
Dick

dustyk · November 2004

If you have the 4.7 (287 CI) motor your Dakota contains a Ethylene Glycol-based Hybrid Organic Acid Technology (HOAT) anti-freeze that uses caroxylate and deionized water. This material is available as Mopar MS-7170, but there are competitive products that are equivalent.

WARNING: When selecting a anti-freeze that is not Chrysler Mopar MS-7170, ensure that the material being used specifically states that it meets Chrysler MS-7170 specifications. Do not use anti-freeze materials that are Propylene Glycol based, such as Dexcool or similar materials. These are not compatible with Chrysler cooling system components and will void the warranty on your vehicle.

Best regards,
Dusty

live77 · November 2004

I recently inherited a 1992 Dodge Dakota extended cab with the 5.2 V8 engine with 130,000 miles on it. Runs and drives great most of the time.
My problem is ever now and then, maybe once every couple weeks it wont start. If I wait a day or two it will start back up. When I say it wont start it will crank over but not fire. Sometimes it might start but sputter for a second or two and then die.
I have already replaced the fuel filter but problem still there. I have now noticed that after I put gas in the tank the next time I go to start, it wont. Im really leaning towards the fuel pump being replaced its just very expensive and hard to do. I thought the not starting right after I put gas in might be a big clue as to what is wrong for the people who have been around Dodges. Any help would be much appreciated.
*One more question. Do you have to pull the entire door panel off to replace the window switch? If not how do you do it?
Thanks for any help.

dustyk · November 2004

I've seen this symptom on a couple of Dakotas, both 3.9 V6s, but I think it could be generic.

Your vintage Dakota did have a problem with fuel pumps. As I recall there was a upgraded replacement pump that fixed the flaw in them. Yeah, they're pricey, but Auto Zone or other atuo parts stores may have a better price. Whether you'll get a quality unit is unknown.

The other problem I've seen in those years was just plain lousy aftermarket ignition parts. I have repaired a numer of them in those years by just replacing the spark plug wires, cap, and rotor with Chrysler parts, even though the aftermarket stuff was not very old. This is especially true of the spark plug wires.

I'm not saying all aftermarket is bad. Some of them are decent quality. But some of the stuff is not good.

I'd first check to see if you're getting fuel. You could have a bad pump, a clogged fuel filter, a bad fuel pressure regulator, or lost electrical power to the pump or other fuel system components.

I'd next check to see if your getting spark. If not them you need to troubleshoot the ignition system. You could have a failed catalytic converter. This could prevent the engine from starting, but when it does run it would be lacking in power as well.

Make sure the air filter is not clogged. Although it's rare to see an engine fail to start because of a clogged air filter, I have seen it happen.

Good luck,
Dusty

dustyk · November 2004

My '03 Dakota 4.7 automatic (33600 miles) exhibited a loud noise a week or so ago on a cold start. It sounded like the accessory drive belt was slipping. This noise continued for about four minutes. I later noticed that there was a whirring or bearing growl that could be heard in the passenger compartment.

This growl was heard for another few days. While driving across town one night I heard what sounded like nuts and bolts being launched from something under the hood. I stopped and checked the engine but everything seemed okay. I drove it away and for a few days more and it seemed okay except the bearing growl that varied with engine speed was still present.

Now my Dakota is normally fairly quiet, but one night the engine noise was about 5x than normal and the truck seemed like the brake was slightly on at higher speeds. This sounded exactly like the Clutch Fan was engaged all the time. My gas mileage seemed to indicate a sudden full 1 to 1.5 MPG drop, too. I also began noticing that after the engine was shut off chirping noises could be heard for 5-10 seconds.

As I suspected, a trip to the Dodge dealer confirmed that the Clutch Fan had bit the dust. A new one as made my Dakota very quiet again and the gas mileage took an immediate jump upwards. Last winter I would occasionally hear some chirps at cold start that I thought was the drive belt, but now I think it was the Clutch Fan.

Anyway, I hope this might benefit someone just in case any of you start getting any of these symptoms.

Bests,
Dusty

sunburn · November 2004

Dusty,

The fan clutch on my 02 QC 4.7 also exhibited occasional squealing noises during a cold start. It took the dealer some time to diagnose it, though. However, it didn't self-destruct like your's did.

live77 · November 2004

Thank you for the reply Dusty. I have talked to a few other people about the fuel pump issue and they all recommended oem pump if thats the problem. A little more expensive but worth it because you don't want to replace it again. I have to put gas in it today so very curious to see if it will start afterwards.
*Do you know if you have to take the door panel off to replace the window switch? It looks like the cover around the switch would pop off but I sure don't want to break it.
Thanks again.

dustyk · November 2004

My son had a '91. I can't remember exactly, but I believe it should pop off in typical Chrysler fashion. That's how most Chrysler cars and trucks are designed. My '03 is the same way.

Just use extreme care while prying with a flat-bladed screwdriver.

Good luck,
Dusty

bpeebles · November 2004

Here is a photo of what my powerslot rotors looked like after 3 Vermont winters. (I snapped this just moments before I took them to the dump and shotputted them into the scrap-metal bin!)

http://hometown.aol.com/peebs4u2/powerslot_after_3winters.jpg

Now, I am running Bendix rotors and time shall tell if they are any better at resisting the winter roadsalt.

As a reminder... the ORIGINAL Dodge Dakota rotors lasted thru only 2 Vermont winters.

mopar67 · November 2004

THey must use some really nasty road salt in VT!

bookitty · November 2004

Bruce, they look worse than I do. And I've lasted over 71 winters. Ben, it's not only what kind of salt, it's how much and how often.

Norm (Bookitty)

gjble · November 2004

I have a 01 4.7 Dakota. I also have a trouble code PO161. O2 Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction (Bank 2 Sensor 2). Anybody know where this sensor is located on the engine? Truck still runs good,(37 miles). I would like to fix this myself if I knew where this sensor was located.
Thanks, in Atlanta

mopar67 · November 2004

is they LOVE to use salt here. I mean lots. ANd the liquid stuff the trucks put out........gosh. Then there's the cinders for traction.

Suffice it to say, this is a good state for any auto manufacturer who wants to "test" the corrosion resistance of the sheetmetal. If it can pass muster here, then I stamp it "tank"!

mopar67 · November 2004

I have a 01 4.7 Dakota. I also have a trouble code PO161. O2 Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction (Bank 2 Sensor 2). Anybody know where this sensor is located on the engine? Truck still runs good,(37 miles). I would like to fix this myself if I knew where this sensor was located.
Thanks, in Atlanta

THere are 4 O2 sensors, one upstream on each pipe (of the pre-cat) and one downstream each pipe. Thus, sensor 2 would be one of the downstream o2 sensors. Never changed one myself. I hear they can be a pain to remove.

spike50 · November 2004

Holy Smokes - Batman!

I'm staying out of Vermont and I thought PA was bad for road salt. My 1.5 yr old / 20K / resurfaced once P-Slots look much better.

Looks like these were sitting in an acid bath.

spike50 · November 2004

I wouldn't give you $0.02 for some of these shop managers at Mopar dealers but hey what do they know. The following was recommended to address the 4,7L's squeal:
1.) New belt 2.) New AC for $500+ just for the part 3.) AC clutch assembly for $220+ just for the part.

I took the front plate of the AC clutch off of the pulley and ran the motor. The AC compressor wasn't turning and the clutch wasn't engaging and the pulley bushing is what is making the noise. I put some penetrating oil and grease on the surface and let it set over night. Noise is gone - with and without the clutch plate in place turning and not turning the AC compressor.

I now have to find out what the pulley costs and read up on how loosen the belt for a shade-tree install.

gjble · November 2004

Thanks for the info. I will search for those sensors
tomorrow and let evryone know what I find.

bpeebles · November 2004

(spike50) If thay had been in an acid bath, at least they would be SHINEY. (just severly pitted and corroded) On the rotors pictured above, the surface where the pads touched was flaking off. It was at least 1/32" thick of pure rust. (Ferrus Oxide)

There is a VERY GOOD reason that I put a BORLA exhaust system on my Dakota. It is the only one available that is 100% T304 Stainless Steel from end to end (including the clamps) I am quite impressd that my BORLA has ZERO rust on it.

Do I have to repeat that my MOST IMPORTANT factor when selecting a vehicle is "RUST RESISTANCE"? This is one reason I selected the DAKOTA!

mopar67 · November 2004

Do I have to repeat that my MOST IMPORTANT factor when selecting a vehicle is "RUST RESISTANCE"? This is one reason I selected the DAKOTA!

Yes, you do!

bpeebles · November 2004

(Mopar67) I have seen many vehicles here in Vermont turn into "flinstone-mobiles" (holes in the floorboards) Most Asian makes (and Chevy) still rust into oblivion.

At first glance, the Saturn with its plastic body seems like the ideal choice for Vermont.... but alas, the metal frame members rust so badly that the engine can fall out from underneath. (even though the body looks great.)

Actually the European vehicles (VW, Audi, MB, BMW) are the very best when it comes to rust-resistance. They are 100% galvonized. Even the underside is totally covered with a thick rubbery coating. It is not unusual to see 12 year old VWs with only some minor surface rust..

mopar67 · November 2004

Why did I forget your impeccable logic?

Hey don't laugh about "Flintstonemobles" I owned one. A 75 dart slant six. The non power brakes combined with wafer thin floorboards meant you laid down your feet to stop the darn thing! But oh that slant six, while no barn burner in terms of performance, was the standard by which all engines should be judged. Even though Chrysler festooned it with a plethora of emission stuff, it still started (once I replaced the ballast resistor) with ease and ran forever. Even with way-out-of-adjustment lifters (solid type) it still ran. Even with a teenager driver flogging it mercillessly, it kept going.

The body on the other hand was a sorry affair. Bugs used to leap with joy when I came down the road as there were more rust holes in this thing than a salvation army suit. It had no AC. Nor did I need it. I got fresh air 24/7/365. Being a smoker at the time, it sure made a difference in keeping the interior aired out.

Looking back on it, it sure was a weird car. Extensive research into Chryco history has gleaned some rather interesting concepts in the production planning and manufacturing of their cars, particularly during the Townsend regime.

Follow me if you can:

This car was a 1975 Dodge Dart Custom. All original.

It had the green vinyl roof (so haute in the 70's), chrome plated trip on the taillights and front marker lights.
It had the "winkers" on the fenders. I found out much later this was an option
It had NON-power front disk brakes!
It had a three speed wiper system but you had to manually press a rubber bulb on the floor to squirt the blue stuff on the windshield.

It came with AM radio but 4 (count 'em, 4) speakers! Yes, this was factory, not aftermarket, I checked. Besides, what kid would want 4 speakers and an AM radio?!?!

It had the upgrade seat material and the rather anal "fuel pacer" light (which I disconnected). It even had "custom" on the hubcaps. I checked to make sure this car was not a salvage because no other car I owned or any that my father owned, were as hodgepodged as this one. Anyway, researching Chrysler management and production structures led me to learn about the haphazard way Chrysler once build vehicles for the 'sales bank' rather than to firm customer orders. What that meant was whatever was in the parts bin, well, that was how the car was built. I think they worked backward from quarterly production figures and to "rationalize" the flow of parts into the assembly plant, Townsend decreed that excess cars (and there were a LOT) go to the sales bank. Actually, Chrysler sold those cars to Chrysler Financial and booked the sale right when the car came off the line. As you can imagine, stock price depended in part on sales and production and Townsend made sure the numbers were always met. The problem came of course when it was nigh time to move the iron to the dealers and no dealer wanted a stripped New Yorker with a 4 speed rather then the Torqueflight automatic! Yes, many cars came off the line like that beause that was what was available at the time of the production schedule!

end of history lesson!

Thanks bpeebles for the memories.

gtownguy · November 2004

Hi Everybody, an update on my check engine light...the new fuel cap was the culprit,problem solved.. Now a new issue that has me thinking. I have a 01 QC 4.7 auto 4x4. It has 41k miles. I recently started noticing that when I turn the steering wheel feels like its creeking? At about 1.5 yrs I had the bushings changed on the antisway bar, I sort of baby the truck. Is there a common steering problem? or could this be ball joints? Its not really resistance, but like a cracking when I turn the wheel. It does it even when warm. Any Ideas, is this a common problem I just forgot I read about??
Thanks for all info.
Tom.

bpeebles · November 2004

Known "steering problems" are;

*)The "clockspring" in the steeringwheel can make some odd sounds as the wheel is turned.
*) The balljoints can creak under some conditions
*) the PS fluid was re-speced to be synthetic about 1/2 thru the 2001 model year. (I replaced mine with RedLine brand and have noted a marked improvmment)

dustyk · November 2004

Well, the front sway bar bushings on older Dakodas were a problem in this area, but I've been informed that new replacements -- like the one's they're using now -- are a better material. Mine have not made the groaning sound at 34K.

Have the ball joints greased and see what happens. The factory joints do not have a grease fitting, but can be lubed with a syringe.

Bests,
Dusty

gtownguy · November 2004

Hi Guys,
I don't think I have a clockspring in the wheel, no electronics on the wheel. (does it have one anyways?) But I did change my pwr steer fluid 3 months ago. The manual said to use only a special Mopar PS fluid. i went to the dealer and got that type. I don't know if it is synthetic? If it is my ball joints, does that mean that there on the way out? Also i previously asked dealer and he claimed they do not regrease the joints.
Tom.

gjble · November 2004

I found the 02 sensors just where they were described to be. OEM cost $110 ea.They make a unversal sensor, about $67, but sometimes the computer will not accept them. I will probably go with OEM. Will the malfunction light go out by itself or will I have to clear the codes?

In Atlanta

bpeebles · November 2004

I beleive the clockspring is there on ALL Daks (It is for the airbag)

The newer PS fluid is ATF+4 According to what I have read, there is currently litagation between the aftermarket parts makers and Dodge. Apparently, there is a LAW ( http://www.granatellimotorsports.com/magnusonmoss.htm ) which guarantees that all automakers must disclose the chemical properties of any fluids they specify. I still have not been able to locate ATF+4 fluids anywhere but the Dealership.

After much research, I found the RedLine PS fluid meets the requirements.... AND may even perform better at extremely low tempartures. (My steering used to be "stiff" below -10F)

dustyk · November 2004

Yes, there is a clockspring on all Dakotas. Whether you have cruise control or the optional radio controls or not, as Bpeebles stated there is still one for the air bag.

Chrysler specifies that on all Chrysler-built vehicles AFTER 1998, the material to use in a power steering unit is ATF+4. Yes, ATF+4 is a semi-synthetic fluid.

The fact that the factory ball joints do not contain a grease fitting does not mean that the ball joint cannot lose grease or need greasing. I took my '03 Dakota in for a groan in the front end and my dealer greased all of the joints. It appears that your dealer is either unknowledgeable or uncooperative in this area. Maybe he'd rather see you come in for ball joint replacement, I think? Based on what I've observed, I would bet that many Dakotas leave the factory without an adequate amount of grease in the joints, thereby causing premature wear or failure.

Best regards,
Dusty

dustyk · November 2004

Bpeebles,

There is no record of a suit being filed against Chrysler for their requirement to use ATF+4 in their automatic transmissions. A search of FTC records indicates that the last legal action taken against Chrysler was in January of 1999. The FTC website lists no current litigation proceedings against Daimler-Chrysler. Neither are there any Daimler-Chrysler hits in Adjudicative Proceedings, Applications & Petitions, FTC Orders, or Advocacy Filings.

( http://www.ftc.gov/ftc/formal.htm )

What has been transmitted on many websites is the result of a complaint letter from the Independent Lubricant Manufacturers Association (ILMA). This complaint was dated 11 November 2003 was not considered actionable by the FTC in February of 2004.

The ILMA's opinion of ATF+4 as a violation of the Magnuson-Moss Act is self motivated and represents an extremely narrow interpretation of the law. If a compound, fluid, or other substance is an integral part of a design, then the required use of that material to maintain design performance or warranty is not a violation of the Act. (If the Act was construed that narrowly, many companies would be out of business from the impact of litigation alone.)

Since Chrysler still specifies ATF+3 for older transmissions built when that ATF was current, and Chrysler recommends ATF+4 for those, but does not stipulate its use, consumers may still continue to use ATF+3 in those versions without any threat to warranty coverage. In addition, ATF+3 is currently manufacturered by several independent lubricant manufacturers with license from Daimler-Chrysler.

Keep in mind that lubricant manufacturer's formulations themselves are protected by US patent laws, such as Redline or any other motor oil or transmission material. Since Chrysler has obtained a patent for ATF+4 as they did with the ATF+ series, this fluid material is a protected recipe and Chrysler can specify it's use. As to licensing, Chrysler has not declined any request for licensing the manufacture of ATF+4 that met the material specifications. However, Chrysler has refused to license material submissions that did not meet those specifications. Currently, Valvoline is the supplier to Chrysler for ATF+4, but does not market this version under their own name.

Keep in mind that Chrysler introduced ATF+4 in 1999 and to date there has been no legal decision against it for requiring the use of ATF+4 in their transmissions.

Bests,
Dusty

spike50 · November 2004

Well the joke is on me. I can't just buy the AC pulley that has the squealing bearing / bushing. Its part of the $220 AC Clutch Kit. So far letting some WD-40 and other mineral oils soak in has quieted it for now.

One thing I did learn is how easy it will be to change the Accessory Drive belt on a 4.7L when 100K comes around.

hotrod16105 · December 2004

Hi everyone. I have a 2000 cc 4.7 5spd 4x4.
No real problems to note. The only one is that whenever i connect the 4-wire connector to my trailer, the reverse light fuse blows. I have used several trailers and checked all of the wiring and still the same problem. I used the plug in harness from Hoppy. If anyone has had the same problem or knows a solution please let me know.

Also, I got to 106,000 miles before changing the front pads and rotors! The rotors were warped for some time but I kind of got used to it.
I just used the NAPA pads and rotors--up to 118,000 miles and so far so good. The back brakes look pretty good yet. Next up are all of the suspension bushings, shocks, and some paint work.

I look forward to hearing from you.

Josh

ron35 · December 2004

Josh - Welcome aboard. I have exactly the same set up as you. I only have 58K miles but so far no real problems including brakes. I was glad to hear you got 106K miles from your brakes. I am planning on upgrading to the Edelbrock shocks early next year. I have upgraded the stereo, switched to all synthetics in the drivetrain and installed a K&N air filter.

Ron

dustyk · December 2004

Josh,

Just a hunch, but maybe the incorrect amperage fuse is installed in that circuit? If your sure there are no shorts in any of the trailer harnesses, it might be the wrong fuse.

I just talked to someone a little while ago with a 2000 Club Cab 4x2, 4.7 and automatic with 128K. They had replaced the pads and rotors around 95K. I think you'll find that highway mileage is much more kind to pad and rotor life. One nice thing to hear is another 4.7 Dakota owner that reported absolutely no problems with the engine. The engine still sounds new. The transmission, which has NOT been serviced, was still going strong.

He did say he experienced a bad gas cap (twice) and upper and lower ball joints were replaced two years ago. Still original shocks!

Bests,
Dusty

opera_house_wk · December 2004

I just purchased an 01 with engine codes 442 & 455. This was because of a bad gas cap filled with rust. You might want to try tapping it on a hard surface to see if some rust comes out. I disassembled mine by squeezing the cap while pressing sideways on the main body. Inside I found a steel spring retainer that was badly rusted and a lot of loose particles. This was held in place by about ten plastic fingers. I cut every other finger to make it easier to remove. Further down, the bi-directional valve seat plate was also made of steel and pitted with rust. Sanded both sides and coated it with silicone grease. Put it all together and it has been fine for the last month. I've heard there is a new improves cap, maybe they went to stainless parts. Apparently this might happen if you wash the vehicle a lot with a power spray. Don't expect many of you would bother taking a gas cap apart. Still, it is possible to rebuild the gas cap in these tough economic times.

Dodge Dakota: Problems & Solutions

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Dodge Dakota: Problems & Solutions