Dodge Dakota: Problems & Solutions

bpeebles · January 2005

"throttle body cleaning and injector cleaning done by a dealer. "!!??!! RU nuts? Whatever the dealer does will be overpriced and have little tangable benefits.

Its sorta like a "tune-up"... "tune-ups" went away when electronic ignition was invented over 20 years ago. Anyone that actually PAYS for a "tune-up" is being fed a line of cr$p.

There was a time that without a tune-up, the ignition timing would drift out and the engine would begin to run improperly. This was due to the points wearing and the dwell would change. Like I said above, there are no "points" to wear on a modern engine....thus no "tune-up"

I have done my own TB cleaning many times. It never gets very dirty and in reality, it is the IDLE QUALITY that is improved because the IAC (Idle Air Controler) gets cleaned too.

As for Injector cleaning, A GOOD QUALITY fuel additive is all that is needed to clean up the fuel system including the injectors. Also, some fuel additives can help remove carbon from the combustion chambers.

BTW: You still have not told us specifically which V6 engine you have.

indychapell · January 2005

I'm curious as to how many of you on this site have received your re-call notice on the ball joint problem. As of this writing I have not received mine. A friend of mine at work did, and has the problem fixed. His dealer did check toe in after installing the new ball joints.

sunburn · January 2005

I received my recall notice the last week of December, 2 days after I made my appointment. To see if your vehicle qualifies, go to www.dodge.com and click on "For Owners" at the top, then click on "Recall Notices". You enter your VIN and it will tell you the recalls that apply to your vehicle.

mopar67 · January 2005

Take a close look at what garages today define as a tuneup.

Then grab a set of your favorite plugs and do it yourself and save a ton 'o money. Plus get the satisfaction of doing it correctly.

ron35 · January 2005

I also received my re-call notice the last week of December (2K 4x4) and my appointment is this Wednesday the 12th. I am going to ask about alignment also.

Ron

dustyk · January 2005

The recent recall of Dakota upper ball joints was issued for four-wheel drive only vehicles. However, I received a letter from Chrysler today advising me that the warranty for upper ball joints on my two-wheel drive Dakota has been extended to ten years or 100,000 miles. This extended warranty covers model year 2000 to early 2003s. My 2003 was manufactured on October 8th, 2002.

The letter describes a bad upper ball joint manifesting itself in the form of a "clunking" noise, but most Dakota owners refer to the symptom as "popping."

A bad seal permits water to enter the interior of the ball receptor on the defective ball joints. According to my technician, after the first couple of months of the 2003 Dakota run a new seal of different design and better material was cut-in on the manufacturing line. These improved seals have been on the Mopar replacement units since February 2003.

Regards,

Dusty

opera_house_wk · January 2005

Airbag light was on for 3 days and now its been off for 3 days. That points away from the clock spring being bad. Maybe it is the sensor. Have to add that to my other electrical problems like radio and turn signal power went away for 20 minutes. Also, the key detect doesn't work. This all makes me think it is somewhere in the column from some previous repair.

mtn dakota · January 2005

I have the 3.9 liter v6, what do you consider a good quality fuel additive? Is carb cleaner sufficent for cleaning the throttle body? I have tried a fuel system cleaner that seemed to make the pre-ignition problem worse, any thoughts?

bpeebles · January 2005

I use aresol carb cleaner when I clean my TB. With eingine OFF I 'hose it down' pretty well with the spray carb cleaner. The black buildup just comes right off. It may be hard to get the engine started and it may smoke out the tailpipe for a moment.... Then, while engine is running, spray some more in there, it will help clean the intake plenum and even the intake valves.

Dont skimp by getting the cheep stuff, you have to use nearly twice as much to get the same effect as the mid-grade stuff. I have cleaned many, MANY (100s) of carberators over the years, (I love to rebuild them) I used to get the very cheepest spray cleaner I could find. One day, I asked my wife to pick up some carb-cleaner for me while she was out. Of course, she got the more expensive stuff.... but when I tried it.... WOW, the gunk just fell off the carberator parts. (with the cheep stuff, I had to soak it for hours and still scrub to get things clean.)

It is not uncommon to experience WORSE engine running while the fuel-system-cleaner is in the system. I once treated a car that probubly NEVER had been done previously. So much crud was washed thru the system into the TB that I could physically see the dirty fuel being injected into the TB. (I ended up having to replace the fuel filter because it got clogged with all the crud that the injector cleaner loosened up)

Many people swear by "Lucas" products. Others have had good results with the "Valvoline synpower" products. If you stop at a well-stocked autoparts store, you should find several 'grades' of injector cleaners. You can often judge by the price how well it will work. Over the years, I have found that you often get what you pay for.

Let us know how it works out for you.

ron35 · January 2005

mtn dakota - I have had success over the years using a fuel additive called BGK 44K. It is expensive at $20 retail but I guess it is the old adage that you get what you pay for. I use it once every six months and it does an excellent job of cleaning the fuel system. Their web site is

www.bgprod.com

labull · January 2005

Dusty & all,

About 6 months ago I took my 2001 Dakota 4X4 in for service. Complaint was squeaky front end and popping/clunking during turns.

They replaced the ball joints and the sounds went away.

Since the recall I've gotten information on how to get reimbursed for the replacement. But the squeaking and popping has returned.

How can I check if they really replaced the ball joints as opposed to lubing them or something else?

Thanks!

Larry

badass_bob · January 2005

I had mine done and they drilled-out/removed the factory pressed in ones and they are now bright shiny silver pieces with 3-4 retrofit bolts through them... Also they are about twice the size as the originals!!

hope this helps...Someone with a digital camera may want to take a pic and post it...I would but my daughter dropped my digital camera into the toilet(long story, dont ask.....)

Also, I too had the squeaky front end problem. It sounded like a rusty matress spring when you went over speed bumps in parking lots... The culpret was bad swaybar bushings that were replaced under warranty @ 45000 miles....no problems since

Chad (North Carolina)

red99dakrt · January 2005

I just bought a 99 Dakota R/T and one of the problems I am having is that after I've been driving a while at about 60 MPH the torque converter unlocks, then locks. When it starts doing that, it will do it 2 or 3 times in a row, then stops for a short while, then does it again. On other message boards I've been told it's the Throttle Positioning Sensor, even though it tests good.

dustyk · January 2005

It's possible that your dealer lubed them to get rid of the noises, then billed Chrysler for warranty replacement of the joints and told you they were replaced. Or, at the time of replacement the improved ones were not available and they reinstalled the same defective design. Either way it's going to be hard to verify.

Best regards,

Dusty

spike50 · January 2005

I had mine (4x4) replace on Dec 29, 2004. The dealer scheduled it after I inquired and they checked the VIN to verify it was in the recall. Just before it went into the shop, I received the official letter.

The dealer can check on the computer, if they have the time.

indychapell · January 2005

I went on the dodge site, and put in VIN number, and it showed i was on the re-call list. I called my dealer, and ask why i had not received my notice yet. He was surprised when i told him i had looked up my truck, and it showed my truck was on the list. He had no idea people like us could look up such information. Of course they are backed up, and waiting on the parts so i was put on the list. You know, "The list".

mtn dakota · January 2005

Thanks for the info, I just filled up with Valavoline fuel system cleaner we'll see.

mtn dakota · January 2005

I used the aerosol method you described, worked great! The crud sprayed right off! Any tips for brakes?

bpeebles · January 2005

What kind of info are you looking for on your brakes? I have been changing brake pads/shoes for over 20 years and also have replaced a front caliper on my Dak.

labull · January 2005

Does anyone who has had the recall done have the part number used for the improved ball joints?

I could compare to what was installed on mine.

Thanks!

Larry

spike50 · January 2005

My Dec 30, 2004 paperwork seems to give a "FP" number of CEXMD471. The new ones are real shiny. I'm going to update my web page with a picture of one.

Yesterday I had the front end aligned by a local GY tire dealer. As a scientist, I should have checked the alignment before it went in for the recall work. Then the follow-up full alignment check would have noted any change as a result of the ball joint replacement and the Dodge dealer's half-assed "toe-in only" alignment procedure.

Now I have a 4x4 with 65K and have slogged around on jeep trails, so who really knows but I definitely needed an alignment after the recall work. Drivers' side camber, cross camber, passenger caster, and cross caster, both side's toe, and the cross toe were all out. So for $80 I'm back in spec, not prefect, but closer.

Probably a good idea to get a full alignment after the recall work.

mtn dakota · January 2005

disassembly tips and what kind of replacement pads work the best?

mikemomd · January 2005

Any suggestions to take care of stripped threads on the brake spindle of my 94 4WD Dodge Dakota...I replaced the bolts with new ones but the receiving threads on the female side are stripped. They are the lower ones on both front sides that some screwed up after a DIY job. Do they make oversized caliper bolts for this situation? Any other possiblities?

Mike

bpeebles · January 2005

There are several ways to repair stripped threads. The most common is "heli coil" which entails drilling, tapping with a special tap and inserting what looks like a minuiture slinky. This replaces the threads with a VERY high strength new set of threads.

This type of repair is STRONGER than the original threads. In fact, most critical designs (like airplanes) are built with heli-coils from the drawing board.

Here are some links to examples of thread-repair kits.

http://www.timesert.com/

http://www.newmantools.com/recoil1.htm

Most autoparts stores will "loan out" a heli-coil kit... you end up just paying for the single helicoil that you use.

labull · January 2005

All,

Thanks for the info. FP number is 5104816 with a description of B/JNT PKG 17011020.

Online my recall status says "Incomplete". I don't know if that's normal or not.

I'll get it to the dealer next week AND submit for reimbursement of 385.80 to DC.

Larry

popdaddy · January 2005

I've got a 2000 Dakota club, 2wd. I did a lot of research on what kind of truck I wanted, and this fits the bill. But one of the minuses I read was that the rear end gets loose easy in rain/snow/ice. I haven't had a problem in rain so far, and in middle Georgia, snow and ice aren't every day (or even every year) problems. But we got 1/4-inch ice last night. When I heard it was coming, I put some cement blocks and firewood in the back to put some weight on the rear. I haven't tried it on the ice and don't plan on it unless something requires me to. What can I do to besides loading and unloading blocks to keep the rear from sliding. Given that I'm not mechanically-oriented, please put it in simple terms for me (other than saying "get a 4wd" - this is going to be my truck for while). Thanks.

opera_house_wk · January 2005

I'm in the snow belt. I just park mine and use the 4WD Explorer. First year for my 2WD Dakota and it doesn't have the best tires for snow, 245/16. A skinny tire really works better. Just ask yourself, do I really need to go anywhere. Around here the roads are a lot better if I just delay for a half hour.

saabgirl · January 2005

Agree with Opera -- just wait for them to clear the roads. Also, keep the gas tank filled and invest in some good tires. Careful of the cement blocks and fire wood, because if you would slide and hit something the load would keep on moving at the speed prior to impact. Sand bags are better, I think.

spike50 · January 2005

Skinny tires are good in the rain and snow if they have the appropriate tread for the job. Ice is bad even with chains.

I wouldn't run with cement blocks in the back of a truck, or any other type of vehicle. Friend of mine had bags of sand in the back of a car when a mechanic wrecked it on an unauthorized trip. Sand was everywhere inside plus the inside of the car was beat-up by the initial impact of the bags. You have to ask yourself "Do you feel lucky? Well, do ya?". Those cement blocks can easily go through that back window if you stop and they're still going 60 mph.

bpeebles · January 2005

A 2WD (Rear wheel drive) Pickup truck has very little weight on the driving wheels. This is not just a problem with the Dakota...but all 2WD pickup trucks.

You have alluded to the only solution you have when the occasional slippery conditions persisit. Putting some weight in the rear (RIGHT OVER THE AXLE) makes a lot of difference in traction (but handling can get very weird.)

The best way to add the weight is to build a simple wooden frame with lumber that drops down over the wheelwells. Then, whatever weight you choose to use will stay in place (even in an emergancy handling maneuver.) Most folks choose to use SAND as the weight because if you DO happen to get stuck, the sand can be sprinkled under the wheels to gain traction.

Of course, your choice of tires makes the biggest difference. When I had a 2WD pickup, I ended up getting some cheep wheels from a scrapyard and having studded tires installed on them. That way, I could bolt on my snow-tires for the winter but have the better ride of my summer tires the rest of the year.

Dont let anyone tell you that a 4X4 somhow "handles" better under slippery conditions. A 4X4 does not corner nor stop any better than any other vehicle. (Actually a 4X4 may tend to handle WORSE on the snow over 40MPH than a 2WD)

Four wheel drive ONLY helps you get moving.... it does very little else for you. (except cost more, use more fuel, and weigh-down the vehicle)

popdaddy · January 2005

Thanks everyone,

I'll get some sandbags, build the frame, and the next set of tires will be skinnier. And I don't go anywhere in snow/ice unless its an emergency.

iowabigguy · January 2005

When I had my 2000 Dakota Quad Cab 4.7/5-speed manual 3.55 lsd 2wd truck I purchased an extra set of rims. I bought a set of Bridgestone Blizzak 235/70/15 snowtires. I live in the Mid-West and for 3 winters never had a traction problem on snow or ice with cautious driving, either starting off or stopping. When I replaced my Dakota with a Ram 1500 2wd in 2003 I did the same thing. This time I bought a set of wheels and Goodyear Wrangler GS-A traction tires off of Ebay.

The tires are not up to the same performance levels as the Bridgestone Blizzak ones they are a vast improvement over the Goodyear Eagle LS tires that came on the truck. I don't use ant extra weight in the back of the truck because of safety concerns.

Some may say skinny tires are better in snow and mud. I believe on limited traction surfaces like ICE I would want as much rubber contacting the road as possible to take advantage of whatever limited traction is available. I personally would never go smaller than what the factory offers as a standard or optional size. Rick

bpeebles · January 2005

(iowabigguy) I guess we did not provide the reason why skinny tires are better in the snow/ice. Please allow me to explain.

Skinny tires are MUCH better in the snow when there is pavement below it You want your tires to "cut through" the snow and concentrate the vehicle weight to the pavement.

In your example of ICE, again, you want to concentrate the vehicle weight to gain more traction. To get traction on ice, the rubber-compound is more importantant than the tread pattern. The special rubber used in winter-rated tires actually GRIPS the ice. (but will wear out very fast in warmer weather)

Wider tires in the snow will tend to "float" on the snow/slush and thus find very little traction.

In general, tires that last many, many miles will be just AWEFUL in the snow. The rubber is so hard that it just slips all over the place. The Goodyear that come as OEM on the Dakota is an example of tires that LOOK like they have traction (because of the tread pattern) but they are not very good in the cold.

For the MUD, there is no solid surface for the tires to push against, this is very different conditions for the tires.

Skinny tires are WORSE in the mud because there is no pavement below it. (you just sink to the axles) In the case of mud, you want WIDE tires that will tend to "float" on the mud to find traction.

opera_house_wk · February 2005

Isn't it designed to haul stuff around? This is an age old argument. If you design a vehicle, you want the weight as low and centered as possible. Physics tells you that putting the weight as far back as possible (not over the wheels) gives the most weight on the wheels. If putting 120# in a pickup makes it dangerous, some engineer didn't do their job. My ride is enormously better when I have a little weight in the back.

My Coke can puts up more of a fight than the Dakota body. I used my thumb to take the last dent out. Suggest sliding a strap down through the tailgate to seure sand tubes. Besides a safety issue, anything loose can cause a lot of damage to the bed.

ncquadcab · February 2005

i just ordered a 2005 Dakota Quadcab-is there way to track its progress? Thanks in advance

saabgirl · February 2005

OOoookay, I'll ask the dumb question: Precisely where should the weight be placed in the pickup bed to get the best traction/ride? I always thought the answer was over the rear wheels. Or should it be closer to center, say, right behind the cab? And I've noticed that partially loaded flat beds move the load to the back of the trailer. So does this argue for putting the weight to the rear of the pickup bed?

spike50 · February 2005

Big trucks (commercial rigs) have to make sure that their axle weight is with the legal limits of the road that they are on so their "motivation" doesn't apply to what makes sense to a pick up driver. You're trying to force your back wheels down into the snow or on the ice to get better traction. So as you get any extra weight closer or over / past the back axle the better. Anything is better than nothing. Good snow / ice tires are a more significant contributor to gaining traction.

I person I knew a person that years ago had a two-wheel drive Rodeo (Izusu) and they said it wasn't good in the snow. I told them to buy sand, in bags, and put it in the back to get better traction. They complained that it still didn't handle in the snow. I went to investigate. The headlights were shinny into the sky because they had so much weight in the back (springs were smashed). Their problem was that they had bald tires.

Extreme example but you have to have "snow" tires for snow when you drive a 2WD rear drive vehicle.

bcarter3 · February 2005

Go to www.dakota-truck.net. Scroll down to "General Dakota Stuff" for the information on tracking your order.

Dick

evaddave · February 2005

Where should the weight be placed? That depends. From what I've read, anything placed between the front & rear axles will be distributed 50/50 between them. So to maximize weight over the rear wheels, you would want to place the weight farther back.

But there are consequences to putting the weight farther back. Because you have the weight farther from the center of mass, turning left or right will be slower. Think of kids spinning around on a rope swing--when you, umm, I mean they, pull your arms in, they spin fast, but with arms outstretched they slow down. (It's also why dragsters are long and thin with the weight at the ends while roadsters are short and wide with the weight in the middle.)

I would guess that the placement of the load on a flatbed has nothing to do with traction. If, like I said above, that any weight placed between the axles is split 50/50, then it wouldn't matter where the load is placed on the trailer. They tend to have the wheels at the back of the trailer and attach to the tractor at the front of the trailer, so the load would always be split 50/50. My bet is that the load is placed at the back of the trailer to make it easier to UNload.

evaddave · February 2005

Oh, yeah. One more thing. Tires make a big difference when driving in snow, but one thing makes an even bigger difference: how you drive.

Don't go too fast for conditions. Leave enough space around you if something should go wrong. Make smooth starts, stops, and turns. Give yourself plenty of extra time to get where you're going.

And probably the most fun thing--practice. Find an empty snow-covered parking lot or well-frozen lake and explore the limits of your vehicle. Learn how it behaves when it starts to slip. Learn how to correct it. Scream "yee ha!" if you want to.

evaddave · February 2005

Since this is a problems AND solutions board, I figured I'd reply to myself so the answer is here for someone else should they need it.

By the switch side of the lens, there is a little tab that holds the lens in. Slip a flat screwdriver between the lens and frame and gently pry the lens out.

The bulb is a #578.

Easy as pie.

lrsd66 · February 2005

Go to the auto store and ask for Heli-Coils, they come in a package of 4 to 5 they replace the threads in the threads that are screwed up. These things are a life saver and cheaper than a new spindle.

lrsd66 · February 2005

I have a 96 Dakota w/the 5.2 standard tranny, 4x4. When I am driving or even sometimes as soon as I start ol'betsy in the mornigs to get her warmed up it idles high, I know it should do this until it gets warm but at 2000 rpm and then when it gets warm it stays around 12-1800 rpm. Once in a while the idle will bounce up and down. I do have and aftermarket speed module on it, but I put it in 8 months ago and this problem just started last week, I have replaced all three sensors on the throttle body I am out of ideas any help out there. Thanks

lrsd66 · February 2005

I would like to put a suspension lift kit on my 96 Dakota and suggestions.

ron35 · February 2005

irsd66 - I wonder if this could be a problem with your computer. It might be worth a try to disconnect the battery, which will reset the computer and see if that helps. If you have tried this already adiagnostic might be the next best move.

dodgetrukn · February 2005

Waiting till monday for my dealers fix on my upper ball joints. Had to cancel 1st appt because of snow storm. Wondering how many folks had a full alignment done by the dealer(free) or had to have it done afterwards cuz dealer would not do a full alignment(had to pay out of pocket)..?? I also wonder how many owners were told from their dealer that the alignment was fine after the ball joint replacement, but your instincts tell you something isn't right after the work and went and got a full alignment..?

Just wondering, since I'll have that work done shortly..Ger

sunburn · February 2005

After replacing the ball joints, the dealer will only check the toe and, if necessary, adjust. A full alignment will cost you more. I was going to have the dealer do a full alignment on mine when it was in getting the ball joints replaced, but when I got home after dropping it off, they were already done with it. I wouldn't think a full alignment would cost that much more.

snowedin · February 2005

I haven't visited hear in a while so was reading through all the posts I have missed and read the Dec. 23,2004 power door lock screeching inquiry. I too have one door that screeches when locking/unlocking. So far, I've pulled the door panel and found that the sound seems to be coming from the latch itself(haven't taken it apart yet). Have you been able to find a solution?

ron35 · February 2005

snowedin - I have had this problem on my 2K Dak CC twice, once with each front door. The part number is 55256713-AB (Latch Front) $69.20 and the labor was $164. I probably would have done the job myself except that it was covered by my extended warranty. I did find that in addition to the noise that eventually the door in question would not open with a key and then I had to hit the power lock switch on the other side to get it to open.

Ron

gregp5 · February 2005

Just had mine done yesterday on my 01 Quad Cab.
I inquired about the alignment and they said the toe in was checked/adjusted as part of the recall.

Who knows what was actually done, but the truck tracks as straight as it did before.

Front end is now very quiet, no more pops or creaks.

Dodge Dakota: Problems & Solutions

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Dodge Dakota: Problems &amp; Solutions

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Dodge Dakota: Problems & Solutions