Dodge Dakota: Problems & Solutions

dodgetrukn · February 2005

Got my upper ball joints replaced (1.6hrs), and the C35 recall done (0.2hrs). Nothing on the dealers sheet mentioned alignment check. I asked the service desk lady if the alignment was checked, and she told me she doesn't know how to read the sheets. Lovely response for a dealership's service desk. Front end really tight now..couldn't see in the rain if the new joints have a zirc fitting..Didn't realize how bad the front end was until they replaced the ball joints.
Will have to post a link for some pics shortly. Still can't believe their response.. Regards,Ger.

dodgetrukn · February 2005

http://www.millervision.com/driverside.jpg and http://www.millervision.com/passengerside.jpg
Looks messy on that drivers side..as i see grease on the inside of my rim.. No zirc fitting either.
Ger

mopar67 · February 2005

units. Based on the thread here, I betcha that was the issue with my rig. Popping and crunching from the front.
Too bad the repl. units don't have grease zerks. I was never a fan of the so-called "lube for life" ball joints etc.

nchillbilly · February 2005

Last month the front passenger power window quit and dealer replaced motor. Now both driver and driver side rear windows are stuck up. I've unplugged motor and am receiving up/down power to the plug. Dealer says regulator needs to be replaced on both for $575. Also, passenger side rear is intermittent...truck has only 35k miles and I'm the original owner. Any suggestions?

nozzlenut221 · March 2005

I have a 2001 Dakota Sport which I recently purchase used. Sweet ride, however, I have an annoying problem with the ash tray periodically dropping down from the dash board by itself when I hit a few bumps.

Any idea how I can tighten this thing up? I have a Haynes manual and it does not disclose how to access the tilt control for the ash tray.

dataguru · March 2005

Hello everyone,

MIL engine light has come on with an ODB code, P0440. Any ideas what this one is and can one resolve this by themselves without too much grieve.

Thanks in advance.
Bill

bookitty · March 2005

nozzlenut, usually there is some sheet metal that has a raised part or something else to create friction, thus staying in position. You may be able to carefully bend the ash tray sheet metal to make for a tighter fit.

Bookitty

bpeebles · March 2005

The ODBII codes are pretty standard among ALL vehicles. (Socioity of Automotive Engineers standard J2012 )

Here is the listing.
http://www.obdii.com/codes.html

The most common cause for P0440 is a gas cap that is not sealed properly. Make certain that you always put the gascap on tight.

Some folks haver reported that the "guts" of their gascap became so corroded that it would not seal properly... In that case, replace the cap with one from a scrapyard as a cheep fix.

There are many other reasons for the EEC (Everaperatve Emmissiions Control) to flag a failure. In previous appends, I have described the diagnostic tests that take place for the EEC.

Breifly: A small pressure is pumped into the airspace above the fuel in the gastank. If that pressure cannot be maintained, a failure is flagged.

moabovepar · March 2005

Hello,
I am new to this board and I have just purchased a 2002 Dakota Quad Cab w/ a 4.7L engine. I have had it for almost a month now and it has started to run hot on the temp gauge, well it hits the line before the actual red H line. When it does I noticed today that it spits water out from the resivour. Now, is there a bad hose or clamp causing this? Please let me know what you think.

Thanks

bpeebles · March 2005

I have never heard of any problems with the 4.7L V8 overheating.

I am assuming that you have verified that the cooling system is totally full of liquid and it is STILL exibiting overheating. This means that the hoses and clamps are most likely OK. (or you would not be able to keep liquid in the system) I am also assuming that the belt is turning the water pump properly.

The most common issue would be that somone mixed "regular" antifreeze with the HOAT (Hybred organic Acid Technology) that your 2002 originally came with.

Mixing different types of antifreeze can cause gelling and plugging of the internal passageways of the engine and radiator. This is bad.

DO NOT BELEIVE THE CLAIMS ON ANTIFREEZE BOTTLES THAT THEY ARE COMPATABLE WITH OTHER ANTIFREEZE TECHNOLOGIES!!

My first response to a problem such as this would be to flush the ENTIRE cooling system with distilled water and fill with a 50/50 mix of the correct stuff and distilled water.

While flushing, it would be wise to remove and inspect the thermostat for proper operation.

NOTE: The reason for using distilled water is because the HOAT type of antifreeze can react with minerals in tap-water.

After you are sure that the cooling system is up-to-par and there is *still* overheating, you have a more serious issue. Next things to consider are water pump and head gasket.

dataguru · March 2005

Bruce,
Thanks for your valued assistance and feedback. I will bookmark the link for future reference.

The gas cap appears to be quite tight and is the newer updated version. I will try to hunt down your previous postings for explanations of the diagnostic test procedures of the ECC and learn. I guess the number of drive cycles with this condition has activated a hard code to be logged. Now, I'm curious as to what other OBDC codes have been flagged thus far. I do recall a P0121 and P0441 codes previously flagged before this current one.

dataguru

sunburn · March 2005

Anyone with a Dakota service manual know under what conditions (if any) the torque converter will lock-up in 2nd gear on a 45RFE transmission? Thanks.

dustyk · March 2005

Sunburn,

I don't believe that the torque converter should ever be in lock-up in 2nd gear. The torque converter is locked-up by the application of the torque converter clutch. The clutch is energized by the Lock-up Solenoid. If lock-up is only occurring in second gear and not in first, I suspect you're TCM is sending a lock-up signal to the solenoid. The solenoid could be defective, I guess, but if you were locked-up I would think you'd experience harsh engagement into Drive and the engine would stall.

Best regards,
Dusty

sunburn · March 2005

Dusty,

I don't have any problems. I was just curious that when I'm towing a trailer up a steep grade in 2nd gear, the torque converter is unlocked. However, this can significantly increase the transmission fluid temps due to the slippage in the torque converter. I was just wondering if the temp got high enough would the torque converter lock up to prevent things from overheating?

dustyk · March 2005

Ah. Okay. The Dakota service manual doesn't specifically state that lock-up doesn't occur in second, but the operation description implies that, as well as it's listed as a fault condition.

I would guess that the torque converter slippage rate would be too small given the gear ratio to load factor to raise the transmission fluid temperature very much. The 545RFE has a dual stage pump and electronic pump pressure control. Torque input is monitored as well as clutch slippage to ensure that slippage is kept very low. I don't know if this applies to the torque converter ( I don't think so...), but clutch slippage is so low on the 545RFE that it probably more than compensates for any heat generated by the torque converter.

Bests,
Dusty

is2dsky · March 2005

Greetings, I recently bought a 2000 Dakota. At the moment all seems well except for a clockspring being let go type noise coming from the rear. My guess is that it has something to do with the ABS. This only happens when I first start up and drive and after it has sat still for 5+ minutes. I've had the truck for about a month now and just now have noticed the noise. My old Saturn used to make strange noises when first starting out which also was the ABS setting itself.. Any Suggestions? thanks..

is2dsky · March 2005

Greetings once again.. Well I had a chance to look at things a bit closer and have discovered that the noise is really coming from the right side door lock. Something new to add to the to be fixed list..

dan250 · March 2005

you aren't the only one. my 03 dakota does the same thing. is there a fix?

shump76 · March 2005

Hi, my tranny is slipping in this 95 w/90K miles on it. It revs up before it catches and then takes off. It has slipped in all gears briefly, but mainly 1st and 2nd, and seems to get better after driven for a while. If it doesn't engage when I put it in drive, I rev the gas, and the it drops into gear. It will also start to shake and try to stall on me sometimes at the stoplight. Fluid level is good, and changed recently. Any suggestions, tranny shot, band adjustment, converter, and I saw something about two solenoids, is that a possibility? I saw that there are two different A500's, how do I know which one I have.
Thanks,

Adam

natrix · March 2005

1. Anyone know what the drive cycle is on the '04 Dakota 4.7 V8 to reset diagnostic codes?
2. Do window shields/bug guards reduce wind noise on the Dakota at freeway speeds?
3. Anyone else have brake noise one year into their new '04's? Can aluminum rim-cleaning agents get into the brake system and cause noise?

iowabigguy · March 2005

"Fluid level is good, and changed recently. Any suggestions?"
I would suspect the transmission fluid that was used when changed, probably used Dextron instead of the mopar sourced transmission fluid. Rick

shump76 · March 2005

It was Chrysler ATF 3, is that correct?

Adam

msmopar · March 2005

Vent visors help with wind noise and rain entering when the windows are down. Bug deflectors and or bug guards on the hood don't help with wind noise and sometimes can make it worse...it does help keep the bugs off the windshield though...Resetting codes has to be done with a hand held tester. Wheel cleaners cant get into your brake system though they can get on your brake pads and cause a squeal. What kind of noise????

dustyk · March 2005

>>Anyone know what the drive cycle is on the '04 Dakota 4.7 V8 to reset diagnostic codes?<<

Forty restarts regardless of engine.

Regards,
Dusty

dustyk · March 2005

Your transmission symptoms are typical of low pump pressure. This could be caused by a clogged transmission filter, pinched or constricted transmission cooling lines, a clogged transmission cooler (in the radiator or auxillary cooler), a misadjusted or sticking modulator control cable or misadjusted throttle cable, a weak front pump, leaking seals, or very dirty fluid.

Good luck,
Dusty

natrix · March 2005

Thanks for the info. The brake noise is a high-pitched squeak from both front brakes...sounds to me like the wheel cleaner got on the brake pads; I used to use it liberally, then discovered soapy water does just fine. However, haven't used chemical cleaners in months and squeak persists 70% of the time regardless of driving conditions.

bpeebles · March 2005

Squeeky brakes are of no concern. After all the Dak is a TRUCK. The noise has no affect whatsoever on the performance of the brakes. Relax and enjoy your truck. (Squeek and all ;-)

The very best way to "clean" the rotors is to do some heavy braking to get the brakes smoking. (Also called "letting the smoke out" ) That will burn off any impurities on the braking surface.

Immedeatly after such treatment, DO NOT COME TO A COMPLETE STOP! (that may create hot-spots under the pads.) Instead, drive continously for at least 25 minutes to allow the brakes to cool off before parking the vehicle. Then, allow the brakes to cool overnight. The heat/cool cycle helps "season" the metal in the rotors.

3250man · March 2005

Here's one that I haven't seen before . . .
My 2000 3.9, 5-speed Dakota with only 32K was difficult to shift after starting it a couple of weeks ago. It felt like the transmission had "slipped out of alignment." At one point, shifting from first to second took all I could to pull the shifter back. It finally went into gear and eventually the rest of the ride (30 min.) and shifting smoothed out. It drove for the next week like nothing was wrong. Last week, it started the same shifting problem, this time grinding through ALL gears! I stopped at one place for lunch and when I started it up again, this time it wouldn't go into ANY gear - no matter how hard I tried. It didn't matter if the clutch was in, out, four wheel drive selected - nothing. Since I was blocking access to the busy parking lot, I even has two irate guys try and get it into gear, but they gave up. Finally, out of frustration and desperation, I put my knee on the dash and pulled the shifter back, into reverse, with all my might. It finally "ground" into reverse, then the engine died! When the tow truck arrive to take it to the Dodge dealer, with the engine off, I was able to shift through the gears using two fingers on the shifter!! Go figure. The mechanic got it to fail for him once. Ultimately, the Dodge service guy soaked me for $575 only to tell me that they found a small piece of plastic (which they somehow lost!)- inside the transmission? Epitat: Now the passenger door won't unlock with my key!!!

dustyk · March 2005

All your symptoms point to the clutch dragging or not completely disengaging. This points to a defective clutch master cylinder or a leaky line.

By the way, I know someone with a 2000 Dakota that had the same identical problem.

Good luck,
Dusty

3250man · March 2005

Dusty,
THANKS for the info! I checked the NHTS website, (Office of Defects Investigations) and there is a TSB(# 9938) about incorrect clutch covers and /or improper flywheels installed. The sevice guy said mine wasn't one of them. Also, as I look at a copy of the mechanic's work order sheet that I requested), it says he suspected the pilot bearing may be seizing on the input shaft (causing it to spin all the time). - NOTHING about the clutch master cylinder or a possible leak. Again, thanks a bunch. I'm off to search the web for info about what you recommend looking at.
Jim

dustyk · March 2005

Seized pilot bushing? Well, I have to say that it could be possible, but in my opinion doubtful.

A loss of clutch cylinder pressure is a more likely problem.

Good luck,
Dusty

mopar67 · March 2005

That's why I've never been a fan of hydraulic clutches. Had many issues with that in a 62 IH pickup.
By contrast, dad's 78 D200 with a direct connect clutch never had an issue until one fine day, a gear self destructed in the NP 435, effectively trashing the whole drivetrain. From the Dana 60 in back, through three u-joints, a carrier bearing and yes, the clutch, the whole thing was junk. But that's another story

dustyk · March 2005

I've seen seized pilot bushings and in each case they heat adhered to the input shaft and spun inside the bushing bore of the crankshaft. Could they lock-up together? I suppose so. But with a hydraulic clutch system I'd suspect loss of pressure first.

Hydraulic clutch systems offer some advantages. Reduced pedal effort, smooth operation, and eliminating the need for periodic adjustment. The downside is increased system complexity and a corresponding increased likelihood of a failed component. Hydraulic systems in general have a component life issue because of the nature of most fluids and seal components used.

They're better than they used to be from the days of European cars or that '62 IH pickup and the IH Scout series. Most Dak owners with manual that I know have not had a problem, except with the transmission itself.

Bests,
Dusty

bpeebles · March 2005

I have a friend that has been a mechanic for over 20 years (He actually WORKS at the Dodge dealership) and before purchasing my Dak, I consulted him. His very first comment was that the "slave cylinder" tends to go bad in cold weather. (-15F and lower)

Since I was forwarned about this problem, I always "work" the clutch gently a few times before driving in very cold weather.

I have encounterd only ONE time when it was about -20F. The clutch would not fully enguage. (With foot OFF of clutch in first gear, my dak would barely creep forward with the engine revving)

Of course none of this has any relavance to the original posters problem ;-)

slickwilliedj · March 2005

cm1 · March 2005

Read your article, and am wondering if anyone has had a similar problem with a 2003 Dakota Quad cab 4.7L. My mpg has gone down to 11.2 from 15mpg. I only do city driving and about 400 miles per month. The dealer says the problem is because I do not do enough driving to keep the system clean. I have an appt this week to check the problem at the dealers. Does anyone have any similar stories or solutions?

gtownguy · March 2005

Hi guys;
I have a 01 QC 4.7L auto,4x4. It has 47k miles on it. Recently, after a long trip of 70mph driving it has developed a rough idle and a skip at approx. 1500 rpm. It threw a trouble code of P0306 (cyl #6 misfire). Having not changed the plugs at 30k, I changed the plugs with the same ones and the idle/skip is still there. I know the plugs are ok, could this be a clogged injector? (my next step). In the past every few (4K) thousand miles I'd throw a bottle of gumout in the tank. If it could be a clogged injector, is there a product of high quality or method to clean the injectors myself. Apart from the usual low price point stuff at walmart, is it worth getting an expensive cleaner off the shelf and use it a special way?
I once new a guy with a VW jetta and the dealer sold him 1.5 gallons of a system to clean his injectors (about $35.)He had to follow certain instructions to use.
Anyways, any ideas before Mr. dealer has his way with my wallet.
Thanks
Tom.
ps- no major problems, had my baljoints done under warranty, been doing most maintainence myself. DC seems to cover themselves in the manual as far as the frequency of other components. (trany,transfer, diffs,changes etc.)

dustyk · March 2005

Could be an injector, especially since I've not heard of one coil failure or problem. However, you could remove and inspect the #6 coil and check for bad connections. Then as a troubleshooting technique, swap #6 coil with another and see if the fault code changes.

Keep us posted.

Good luck,
Dusty

waynesan2 · March 2005

Tom, I also have a 01,4.7l,auto,4x4,50k.You mentioned that you do most of your maintenance yourself; which antifreeze did you use when you changed your antifreeze, 100kHoat or 36kGlycol? I have been holding off on changing mine because no one can identify which antifreeze in in my radiator.Thanks, Wayne

gtownguy · March 2005

Hi Wayne, most of my vehicles have been foreign lately, prior were american and always seemed to go thru many radiators (why, idon't know) anyways I'm not a fan of changing antifreeze a whole lot. Sometimes just seems changing a radiator is easier at 7-8 years+/-, versus every 2 years coolant changes they want you to. But, I was probably going to change mine this summer-warmer weather, and use the dealer stuff. (probably at 50K+/-) Please don't go by my discombobled theory, do what you think is best.
From what I understand, (this site) we have the Hoat, I don't beleive its a 100k, I just remeber not to mix with regular. Now I notice Prestone ads that claim all their new stuff is compatible.??? But I'll probably feel better with expensive!! dealer supplied formula.
Thanks
Tom.

Tom.

dustyk · March 2005

Actually, according to the 2003 Dodge Dakota service manual, the factory fill (MS-9769) HOAT coolant is good for five years or 100,000 miles.

The same service manual also states that non-HOAT coolant is green in color, but I saw the MS-9769 at the dealers and it was green as well. According to my overfill cap I have the HOAT and it, too, is green.

The manual also states that HOAT should not be mixed with a non-HOAT coolant, and that MS-9769 should not be mixed with ANY OTHER coolant, HOAT or non-HOAT.

I know that some coolant manufacturers state that their fluid is universally compatible, but I wouldn't take the chance. I suspect that it isn't.

Best regards,
Dusty

ron35 · March 2005

gtownguy - I have had very good results using a product called BG44K to clean my injectors. It is sold at selected gas stations, it is not cheap (about $20) but it works. I used it recently and picked up about 10 miles on a tankful of gas.

Ron35

gtownguy · March 2005

Hi Dusty, and others, thanks for the reply. I am leaning to a clogged injector. Reasons are that my plugs were severely worn when I took them out, and I think under high stress (speed + towing) along with no name/low grade gas, caused an accumulation of carbon/[non-permissible content removed] in the intake valves/injectors. I noticed on one side of the #6 plug electrode tower/shaft oil had coked. I have been running fuel inj cleaner, but unfortunately have had a full tank of gas. I will add techron and a couple others when the tank is low and run it so its a high concentration mix. I just learned about top tier fuel as well, so in my area I'll probably try my next gas at a shell station. I'll also look for that bg44 stuff. I do see some ads for a product called seafoam. I may try that in a week or so. Hopefully then I 'll have good news to report.
Thanks,
Tom.

rm_trek · March 2005

I have a '98 Dakota. Sometime this winter ice froze onto my driver side window. When I went to move my window down, I heard the motor working, but the window stayed put. After I chipped away the ice I was able to move the window with my hands and eventually, I was able to get the window back on it's track to move it up and down by the button inside my truck. However, another night it froze again and when I tried to move it, it got off track. Now I haven't been able to get it back on track. I even took the side door apart, at least the plastic part, to try and see what the problem is. I can't really see anything b/c behind the plastic cover is a metal frame that looks welded to the side door. Does anyone know what to repair the window? I think my problem is easy to fix if I just knew how to reach the window.

canuck34 · March 2005

Hi all...
My 2001 Dodge Dakota Is stuck in 4wd. There is no indicator light on either. However I do have a service 4wd light on now????

dustyk · March 2005

Your '98 should be similar to '03s. The window glass can be loosened from the run channels by lowering the regulator and glass all the way downward until the regulator arm is aligned with the access holes in the door frame. The run channels can then be loosened. I suspect that the glass has slipped out of one of the run channels, or the upper and lower run channels have separated. The upper and lower channels are held together with a leaf spring clip that's riveted to the outside lower run channel. If they've slipped out they can easily be slipped back together.

Hope this helps.

Best regards,
Dusty

dustyk · March 2005

Illumination of the "Service 4WD" indicator lamp indicates that the Transfer Case Control Module (TCCM) has detected a fault in the transfer case operation or electrical circuitry.

My suggestion is to see if you've recorded a diagnostic trouble code (DTC). If not, check electrical connections between the transfer case harness (shift motor) and the TCCM.

Good luck,
Dusty

sniffs · April 2005

98 Dakota 5.2 Magnum, 123000 miles. fules pump quit on the road and the truck had to be towed home. there's no power getting to the pump. a test with a brand new fuel pump yeilded no results. fuses and relays checked out allright. is there a fuseable link in the harness to the pump, or a reset switch hidden somewhere. we're getting frustrated

dustyk · April 2005

Yes. The fuel pump receives it's operating current from the Fuel Pump Relay. The relay is located in the power distribution center (PDC) that is under the hood. Lift the cover from the top of the PDC. The fuel pump relay is just below the 28-pin connector near the edge of the PDC. There should be a diagram printed on the cover to help you locate the relay.

Regards,
Dusty

danner · April 2005

I was wondering if there was a way to lift my dak 4 by between 2 and 3 inches safely without buying a 1500 dollar lift kit??

Dodge Dakota: Problems & Solutions

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Dodge Dakota: Problems &amp; Solutions

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Dodge Dakota: Problems & Solutions