Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!

Dodge Dakota: Problems & Solutions

1636466686987

Comments

  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    Right on, Bpeebles!

    WE just helped a fellow Dak owner last week who was suffering from the same problem, except the only thing he did was install a "high performance" air filter. In his case he got way too much oil on the filter element. It had coat everything from the air filter housing to the throttle body. After four cans of a spray carburetor cleaner we got everything back to normal. He installed a Mopar air filter and his 4.7 is now idling like glass.

    By the way, these high performance air filters will only provide a slight increase in flow at the extreme end. Newer factory induction systems nowadays are so well designed (usually) that they are efficient through the entire engine RPM range. On the Dakota you might gain a horsepower or two at max throttle. Not much of a valuable performance increase to normal users.

    Best regards,
    Dusty
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    Although not directly related to Dakota... you are LUCKY that dodge chose to use Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensors to determine how much air is flowing into the engine. To recover, all you have to do is REMOVE that stupid filter and clean the intake manifold.

    On engines that use the Mass AirFlow (MAF) sensor, the oil from those "high performance" filters will DESTROY THE MAF SENSOR. Leaving you with a hefty bill to replace the MAF sensor.

    BOTTOM LINE: Those oilable filters are not a very good idea.. there is no measureable gain for normal street driving BUT there is measurable problems associated with using them.
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    Yep. GMs are real sensitive to this for that reason. I've tried to tell a couple of people about the pitfalls of the filter oil, but overcome by the "more must be better" syndrome they learned the hard way.

    Bests,

    Dusty
  • hoot95hoot95 Member Posts: 1
    Hello,
    I have a 98 Dodge Dakota, V6 3.8l. The engine is having a rough Idle. The truck was sitting about 6 months with out driving. I filled up the gas tank with new gas and added some of the octane boost/injector cleaner. I have also cleaned the air cleaner and throtle body with no imporvements. I am having issues just at the idle position. Other than that the engine runs fine at operating speeds. Any suggestions?
  • georgian1georgian1 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 98 dakota with the same problem. Sometime last summer i started the truck one day and the abs and parking break light's came on and havent gone away, also the spedometer doesnt work till i hit 50km, then it turns on. I havent done anything about it cuz i really had no reason to waste the money but im just about to sell it and need to get it fixed. I figured it was just a wiring problem, maybe something got exposed and is grounding out. Anyways if you do figure it out can you post the problem so i can take care of it.
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    Your engine is a 3.9 liter V6.

    There are many causes for a poor idle quality from spark plugs, air filter and PCV valve, to other ignition components; vacuum leaks and sticky valves or other combustion chamber issues, to a clogged catalytic converter and or throttlebody.

    These are a few of the things that should be checked in order to diagnose your problem.

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • jphilpojphilpo Member Posts: 1
    Purchased a 2005 Dodge Dakota based on Edmunds recommendation. STAY AWAY FROM THIS VEHICLE :lemon: It rides worse than any cheap rental car I've ever driven. Dealer replaced tires, I paid the difference, still vibrates at highway speeds. Gas mileage rating 16-22mpg, would you believe 13.9 mpg highway. Dealer states gas quality is poor. I had a 2000 Toyota Tundra V8 that averaged 16.5 - 17. :lemon:
  • spillingvoidspillingvoid Member Posts: 5
    My 93 dodge dakota blew a cylinder :sick: (timing gear skipped a tooth). I was wondering what it would take to get a 1969 dodge 383 into my truck. I know i'd need to change some pulleys and move the motor mounts but i was wondering if any one had any knowledge or actual experience putting a big block into a dakota.
  • haselhasel Member Posts: 64
    Too bad that you got a truck that you are not happy with, I got my 2005 Dakota Laramie Q Cab on May 2and I have the 4.7L engine and 3:55 posi rear, On my first tank of gas I got 16.88mpg, this truck is nice and quiet rides and handles better than my 2001 and 2004 Q Cab, I have the P265X70R16 tires, :)
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    If you're expecting to just plop it in I think you'll find that it's not going to go. The 361-383-413-440 blocks are, I believe, too wide for a drop in fit on a Dakota.

    This might be the chance to install a 360 Magnum motor of your choice. Small block Mopars make plenty of power and torque, and will fit to existing Dakota pieces.

    Best regards,
    Dusty
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    I've read a few posts about wind noise complaints on Dakota and I have found one source.

    A few months ago I had the Dodge dealer look at my drivers' side window for chatter in the up position, After lubricating the power window regulator (which resolved the issue) I noticed that on occasion I would hear a slight rattle noise emanating from the door. This winter is became more pronounced on cold mornings and/or before sufficient cabin heat.

    Anyway, during a recent warming trend a couple of weeks ago I removed the door panel to troubleshoot the rattle. I adjusted the door handle operating rods by slightly bending them. This appears to have resolved the rattle.

    However, during re-installation of the door panel I noticed that a triangle-shaped foam gasket that is surrounding the opening in the door frame for the power mirror had become loose and was out of position. This gasket appears to have adhesive coating on the side that is suppose to mount to the door frame. I pushed it back into position applying enough pressure to get the adhesive to secure it.

    After reassembly and the subsequent road test I realized that a whistling sound that only occurred when I had the passenger window down between 1-4 inches was completely gone!

    Best regards,
    Dusty
  • sdolsdol Member Posts: 2
    Hello, New guy here. I have an 03 dakota quad 4x4 with 30,000 miles. Front brakes just fine. however, rear left inside pad has worn down to the steel. Installed new pads, turned rotor, drove 15 miles, rotor was so hot it could not be touched... all other rotors normal temp. seems caliper is not backing off. Chrysler will not come to the table for warranty consideration.... any words of advise? or other comments> Thanks.
  • ron35ron35 Member Posts: 134
    spillingvoid - Suggest you take this topic to the Dakota Mailing List. They have some 1200 members and they are really into topics like this. You can subscribe at

    majordomo@dakota-truck.net

    Ron
  • blasieblasie Member Posts: 13
    Yes I have the same problem. I have an 03 quad. cab 4x4 w/ 4.7L. I also have a 02 Durango. The Durango gets 20 M.P.G. or better usually, thats what alerted me to my problem (I just bought my Dak.) It sounds like the dealer is full of bull. I have learned in the past couple of days from talking to certain friends of mine (I work on 18 wheelers and some of my friends work at auto. dealerships) that certain fuel additives like octane boosters will mess up the O2 sensor, you could also have a longer spray time on one or more of you injectors. this could be caused by the computer trying to compensate for a problem that a sensor is picking up or the sensor (like the O2 I mentioned earlier) is failed or failing. After asking a lot of questions I have found an independent shop that had a lot of people had good things to say about them, plus their labor rate is a little cheaper than the dealer. Since I just bought mine from a reputable Dodge dealership I will be taking mine back there first. If they cannot or won't fix it under any of my warranty coverage or just for the simple reason I just bought it I will take it to the independent. My suggestion is do some careful research, ask around and find another dealership on independent. I don't know how much you get out during reg. bus. hours but if you see a tool dealer like a Snap-On Man ask him, They know lot's of mechanics and shops and they have no reason to lie to you. I have learned that since computer controlled fuel injection has replaced the Carb. sometimes it is well worth a trip out of your way to a shop or person who knows what they are doing.
  • georgian1georgian1 Member Posts: 2
    Hey i had the same problem, just fixed it today, it's the abs/speed sensor in your rear diff. You can pick them up from the dealership for around $40 depending where you get it. Takes about 20mins to install yourself.
  • tcsmpsitcsmpsi Member Posts: 31
    ?????

    Well, I've been in several "rental cars", some 'cheap', some not so 'cheap'. I would rather drive my '05 dak than any of them.

    Certainly, there is a possiblity that you have gotten hold of a problematic vehicle out of the bunch, but what you are stating is not by any means what has proven to be the norm.

    And, most certainly, I have not experienced any of the things you quip about in either of my Dakotas.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    EIther stuck caliper or pads not sliding on the guides. Sice this is REAR, it could also be emergancy-brake cable issue.

    I wonder if there is a REASON that the Dak has reverted back to rear drums starting in 2005?
  • mandomanmandoman Member Posts: 1
    Hi folks, I'm a newbie here and this is my first post. Now here is my dilemma.

    while replacing my clutch, I snagged my clutch slave cylinder and broke that fantastically "strong" plastic fitting where the line connects to it. No problem, so I thought, until I found out that Dodge charges $200 for the unit (master and slave in a sealed unit) Ouch!!! not good! So I obtained a third party unit that turned out to be only the slave cylinder.... My problem is how to remove the old cylinder---anyone have any tips??

    Thanks
  • gt6spitfiregt6spitfire Member Posts: 1
    I purchased a 2000 4.7 Dakota about 4 weeks ago and love it soo far,but i'm already having a problem.In any vent position other than off the air cond comes on.Took me a while to figure out why the electric fan was always running,even after first starting up in the morning.It is still pretty cool here being early spring.I also have an erratic idle which could be the compressor cycling but it jumps from 700 to 1500 rpm and constantly goes up and down which seems strange.It seems to be fine with the AC off.Is there a solenoid that could be stuck on?This forum is great, it helped in my decision to buy the Dakota.Thanks
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    That is one of my only gripes about my 2000 Dak. The AC compressor is "on" in all except 2 switch positions. I have always wanted to install a pushbutton switch so I can tell the system when to enable the AC compressor.

    Virtually ALL non-US named vehicles have a pushbutton so the driver can control when the AC compressor is enabled.
  • theemiketheemike Member Posts: 3
    I am new to this (bought an 05 Laramie this weekend) and may have missed this.

    The book says that you can change whether the power outlet is on 24x7 or only when the truck is on. (I think it said you can do it to both plugs in one thing I read)... But I cannot find anything that tells me how to do it.

    How is this done? (I need to change my dahs outlet to "always on"

    Thanks,

    Mike
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    I'm not sure when they changed the heater controls on Dakota, but my '03 has a twelve-position mode control switch that operates the blend door. The AC compressor is engaged in only four of those positions. These are the four in which some amount of air is directed to the defroster ducts. The AC select button is a separate control.

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    Hmmm, interesting. My '03 Dakota service manual states that power is available to the power outlets at "all times." Except, I know that this is not the case on my truck. There is only power there when the ignition is on. I've looked at the wiring diagrams (for my '03) and I'm suddenly suspicious that full-time power may be accomplished by moving a jumper in the Power Distribution Center.

    Needed something to do tonight!

    Best regards,
    Dusty
  • theemiketheemike Member Posts: 3
    Let me know what you find. I will take a look as well.

    Thanks,
    Mike
  • tabarellitabarelli Member Posts: 1
    :sick: I have a problem in my Dakota 1999 V6 3.9.
    The alert light of the rear ABS is on and the speedometer only begins to work starting from 60 MPH.
    I believe that the problem is in the speed sensor.
    Am I correct?
    Which the difficulty of changing that sensor ?
  • enorm05enorm05 Member Posts: 1
    I bought a 05 dakota slt quad cab and am finding the rear head restraints difficult to see around. The dealer says that they cannot be removed, but there must be a way. Does anyone know how to do this?
  • mcg53mcg53 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2001 QC - after driving for about half hour the RPMs start jumping up 300 to 500 rpm - engine revs sounds like its in neutral. Happens about every 60 secs. It occurs in drive, overdrive and cruise. Anyone have a clue? The dealer sure doesnt.
  • theemiketheemike Member Posts: 3
    Thanks Dusty!
    I looked in the distirbution box (I guess that is what we used to call the "Fuse box") and sure enough it was there. Kind of like moving a jumper, but the fuse itself was the jumper. Position 22 is the power outlet fuse. If it is to the engine side it is on with the key, if it is on the fender side it is always on.

    Hope this helps others.

    Mike

    From Dusty:
    "Hmmm, interesting. My '03 Dakota service manual states that power is available to the power outlets at "all times." Except, I know that this is not the case on my truck. There is only power there when the ignition is on. I've looked at the wiring diagrams (for my '03) and I'm suddenly suspicious that full-time power may be accomplished by moving a jumper in the Power Distribution Center.

    Needed something to do tonight!

    Best regards,
    Dusty"
  • landemrightlandemright Member Posts: 1
    Hi all , I currently own a 2000 Dodge Dakota Sport 3.9 5 speed. Since the purchase of this vechicle from a local Dodge dealer, Ive been complaining to them about the VERY loud noise when shifting from any gear. If I didnt know better it sounds like a U joint. Ive had the truck in the dealers shop the day after I purchased this truck and they had it for 2 1/2 weeks. I was told by them that this noise is normal and common to all Dakota trucks. I find that extremely difficult to believe seeing as I drove a few other than the one I purchased from them. Here the best way I can describe the noise and or problem. From a still position Ill let the clutch out and begin to drive, as Im shifting from 1st to 2nd or for that matter to any gear as I release the clutch I get a very loud and distinct metal ping. It does not matter from what gear or what speed the noise is always there when I shift. As I stated earlier, if I didnt know better Id swear it was a u joint. Now as IM shifting, if I ease the clutch out VERY slowly to the point of almost riding the clutch the noise isnt there. But normal shifting the noise remains.The noise seems to be coming from the tranny and near the gear shifter boot or so it sounds that way. I have inspected the driveline and U joints and there are in good operating condition. To ensure the condition of the driveline and all components of it, I took it to a shop that I trust and have known the owner for years. Upon his inspection, he too agreed there was nothing wrong in the driveline . He too said the noise WAS NOT normal when he test drove the truck. He looked at all Dodge service bulletins, and found no posts or remarks regarding this problem. There is most definately something wrong here but I cant get the dealer to attempt to remedy this problem.As a final thought, the dealer had a 3000 or 30 day warranty (whichever came first) on the truck and that any problems would be fixed at NO CHARGE to the buyer. So I wonder of they infact found something and thought perhaps the problem wouldnt get worse until their warranty expired and my service warranty kicked in. Anybody that has any idea as to what the problem is, please feel free to offer your opinion. IM not thrilled at the prospect of having to spend $200.00 (my deductable) to fix the problem the dealer should have addressed the day after I bought this truck.This is NOT a normal sound regardless of what the dealer says!! :mad:
  • amend1amend1 Member Posts: 98
    See my theory on your problem in the quad cab section.
    Bill
  • memyselfandimemyselfandi Member Posts: 3
    I purchased a 2001 Dakota QC with a 4.7 from my Aunt with 75,000 miles on it. I am having the same cooling problems. It tends to overheat, and blow fluids out through the over flow. The upper hose gets hot, and feels pressurized like the thermostat has seized. I drained and flushed the system. I then installed a new thermostat (The dealership gave me a 195 degree thermostat, and not a 180). I did a 50/50 mix of HOAT, and Dist. water. The problem has not gone away. All of the other parts are in working order. To bet best of my knowledge the head gaskets are fine. The only way to know for sure is to perform a leak down test I assume. I am at a loss, as it does not overheat all the time. It does blow fluids out of the over flow, and all over the front of the vehicle on a regular basis. I am curious as to what the cure was for the last fellow with this problem.
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    Have you checked the radiator core fins for signs of being loose? The fins are annealed to the core tubes. If the fins start to come away from the tubes there will be a loss of heat conduction from the tube to the fin and hence to the air.

    Any signs that the transmission is overheating? Although it would be my last suspect, a automatic transmission could cause engine overheating.

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • cparkes1cparkes1 Member Posts: 15
    on a recent trip from fla. to canada i noticed a miss while in cruise. it holds asigned speed but you can see &feel rpm drop and miss almost like a rev limiter is in play. when i take out of cruise problem goes away. it takes a 1/2 hour from start up till problem surfaces. i am concerned that this could be the start of a major problem down the road and will happen even when out of cruise.could it be a throttle position sensor that is on its way out? any help would be greatly appreciated. cookie :confuse: image
  • amend1amend1 Member Posts: 98
    memyselfandi,
    I had the same problem. It seems the system is very sensitive to any loss of coolant. Check your radiator cap (when cold, of course!) I found that on mine, the rubber seal on the underside which contacts the inner flange of the radiator was distorted and allowing coolant to pass, thus not holding the proper pressure. It wasn't a dramatic distortion, just enough to allow a leak.
    Bill
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    The speed-sensor for my 2000 Dak is just screwed into the rear differential housing. It has a electrical plug on it. If that is your problem , it would not be very difficult at all to change.
  • amend1amend1 Member Posts: 98
    See my message in the quad cab section about this problem. It's the cruise control system.
    Bill
  • memyselfandimemyselfandi Member Posts: 3
    Thanks for the quick reply's guys!! The radiator fins look to be in great condition except for a few bug splats. I didn't think to check the cap though. I was wondering if there is a possibility that it might be air locking. Is there a chance that there might be some air still in the system, and if so what is the best way to get it out? I once had an Acura car than would do this. Once the air was evacuated from the system things were fine. I am on my way to check the cap as we speak. I checked the cap, and it does look to be slightly distorted (I have seen much worse work) so I will replace it. The thing is, that I do not think is it blowing by the cap, and it doesn't overheat all the time.
  • cparkes1cparkes1 Member Posts: 15
    forgot to post truck make &mileage, is as follows 2000 dakota club cab, 105,000kms 3.9 v6. sorry about that, again is there a possability that it is the speed sensor or throttle positioner sensor. i hate to have to go to dealer for diag. test.
    regards &later cookie :confuse:
  • sunburnsunburn Member Posts: 319
    I would suspect that the torque converter is unlocking and then locking back up after a short period. When the torque converter unlocks, your RPMs will increase about 500 RPMs, depending on the load the engine is under. If the transmission were to shift into neutral, the RPMs would increase significantly.
  • memyselfandimemyselfandi Member Posts: 3
    I pulled the new thermostat today. I drained all the new antifreeze, and flushed the block with dist water, then I flushed it again. I once again purchased all new antifreeze from the dealer, and a new radiator cap. All was installed along with new NGK plugs. I took it for a drive later today. The outside temp was 78. The gauge read just below half. It ran fin all day in town, even with the A/C on, though the gauge did move some. On my way home, up what we call Milton hill, the gauge climbed up to a little over half.
    Before this all started happening the gauge never moved. I haven't driven it up the mountain to see if gets hotter or not. I'm starting to think the radiator needs power flushed, or replaced. :confuse:
  • mtrialsmmtrialsm Member Posts: 159
    My dash engine mal light came on Saturday. 55K miles on my '01, 4.7 auto
    QC, Dakota. Since I was putting off some needed main. I changed plugs, airfilter,
    and cleaned throttle body today. I taking it to the dealer Monday, so what should I expect? O2 sensor? I have extended warr.
  • dberriendberrien Member Posts: 1
    I had exactly the same trouble on my '98 Dakota. It is the sensor. I had very little trouble changing the sensor, except for one thing. The sensor design was changed sometime after mine was manufactured... Take a look at the direction that the connector outlet faces. If the connector faces the drivers' side (Cable comes straight off the sensor and runs around the back of the gas tank and forward along the drivers' side) then you have the older design. If it comes off the sensor toward the center of the vehicle, and makes a 180 degree turn and goes back toward the drivers' side, then you have the newer design. The dealer will sell you the new style sensor, but in order for the older cable to mate up with it, you will need a mod kit that consists of a different metal shield, and a 6 inch long jumper / extension harness. Without the jumper harness, your cable will not reach the new connector location. Don't ask me how I found out... They gave me the cable, etc. for no charge, so I think you just have to let them know you need it. As always when dealing with a dealer's parts department, YMMV...
    The sensor is mounted on the differential housing, and access is pretty easy. You have to remove a nut that holds the brake line clamp, and lift off the brake lines. Next, you remove the stud that they were bolted onto. This will free up the metal shield and the sensor. Remove the metal shield, (lift the front edge over the plastic tab on the sensor body) and you can rotate the sensor body to free it up. It is just slip fitted into the housing, and sealed with an o-ring, but mine had some built-up crud and corrosion above the o-ring, so it took a little "convincing" to get it out of the hole. Carefully! wipe the built-up crud out of the hole, and pop the new sensor into the hole. I used some motor oil to lube the o-ring. (I don't know if this is recommended or necessary, but my new sensor was "reluctant" to go into the gunked up hole, and I don't have the facilities to pull the rear axle housing, remove the gears, etc. and clean the hole properly...)
  • wpaulsonwpaulson Member Posts: 1
    My truck is a 2wd club cab manual with 102000 miles. I've been hearing a sound like a bicycle chain rattle when I accelerate hard or go up a hill. the sound only occurs when I'm in gear and moving- not while sitting still or coasting. I was thinking it might be my throw out bearing or a bad ball bearing on the drive shaft but i don't know. I spoke with a dodge service tech and, from my description, thought it might be a "gasket on the intake pan?" (something like that). just wondering if anyone else had experienced a similar problem
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    Your description is pretty vague. I wonder if you are describing the sound of pinging or pre-gnition?

    If so, try some higher-octane fuel. That will most liekly cure pre-ignition.

    The reference to "gasket on the intake pan" may be suggesting that air leaking into the intake plenum will cause the engine to run lean. This will also cause pinging.

    One way to check the engine is to do some sparkplug readings. Often that will give you an indicator if the engine has been running lean.
  • mtrialsmmtrialsm Member Posts: 159
    Oxygen sensor bad, fixed.
  • snturnersnturner Member Posts: 2
    I bought a 2005 Dakota 4.7 engine, auto trans, about 2 months ago. At about a 1000 miles the engine light came on and the truck would not move unless I gave it a lot of gas. Took it back to the dealer who said it was just a fluke thing. They reset the light and told me it produced a boogus code. Two weeks later it is happening again. Now the truck just dies. Like the key has been turned off. It starts right back up but then takes a lot of gas to get it moving again. So the truck went back to the dealer again today. My wife took it in and told them to find out what is causing the "fluke". Anyone else have this issue?.
  • mtrialsmmtrialsm Member Posts: 159
    Sound like they need to replace the computer? Keep good records, might be
    a lemon!
  • techresindytechresindy Member Posts: 4
    We have a 1991 Dakota that keeps running down the battery. We took the alternator off and had it tested, it shows good.

    When we try to start it, there is a clicking noise in the solenoid (which I thought was the starter clicking), but the starter will not turn over the engine.

    We were able to jump it and get it running for about five minutes, but then it died and would not jump again. We are completely baffled as we are not engine repair people, but need to do as much on our own as possible.

    Any input would be great...
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    1) remove and fully charge the battery
    2) Take battery to auto-parts place to be tested (replace if needed)
    3) start engine and check charging voltage with all electrics on

    After all above is good, then start checking for what is draining the battery while parked.
  • techresindytechresindy Member Posts: 4
    Thanks for the input, bpeebles.

    We replaced the battery last night and installed it. The voltage meter shows it's charging around 16 volts. The alternator was deemed working off the truck, but we are going to take it in tonight to see if it registers working attatched to the truck. For some reason the people we are working with feel the computer is not telling the alternator to run (in place of a traditional voltage regulator) and so the battery is being used up within a few days.

    We were told last night about the computer wires possibly making a problem for this vehicle. Any experience with that?

    Thanks again...
This discussion has been closed.