Dodge Dakota: Problems & Solutions

snturner · May 2005

Dealer says it is the torque convertor. They are putting a new one in now. We'll see what happens :lemon:

ticc94 · May 2005

I have a 98 Dakota Sport, 4WD. The end of the shift lever with the Overdrive On/Off Switch is loose, and the wires have worn to the point of random shorting in the lever. Any ideas what wiring colors are under the dash coming out of the column to install a replacement switch on the dash?
Thanks.

bpeebles · May 2005

I use a neat tool that I found at WallyMart (near the car-batteries) to test the charging system. It is a voltmeter that plugs into the ciggerete-lighter socket.

I can monitor the charging voltage "insitu" while driving under all kinds of conditions. This is the only REAL way to ensure that the charging system is working properly.

dustyk · May 2005

If you are showing a charge then the alternator is charging the battery. Depending on the ambient temperature, the maximum charge rate would be something around 15 volts. Try to get a better instrument reading of the voltage at the battery terminals with an accurate voltmeter to verify the charging voltage. If it is indeed 16 volts it may be overcharging the battery and damaging it over time.

The voltage regulator has been internal to the computer on Chrysler products since the early 80s at least. If your's is overcharging the computer is a likely suspect. Battery draw with the engine ignition switch in the off position and all lights and accessories off, should be approximately 20 milliamperes.

Regards,
Dusty

bpeebles · May 2005

Dont forget that there is a tepmurture sensor under the battery. According to the facroty shop manual, that sensor is used to feedback the battery temperture to the regulator . (Which Dusty correctly identified as placed in the computer)

If that temp. sensor is wrongly sensing the battery, obviously, the charging voltage could be affected.

lobsterman1 · May 2005

my motor knocks bad when the accelarator is pushed.??just started yesterday.

gtownguy · May 2005

Hello Everyone;

I have a 01 QC 4x4 4.7l auto. Just today I noticed when I put my heat or A/c on the only speed that works is the high setting on the knob. The first three are dead- no fan movement. Any ideas what this may be???

All responses appreciated

Thanks
Tom.

dustyk · May 2005

Yep. I'm pretty sure you'll find that the fan speed resistor is open. The high setting draws current directly without going through the resistor. It is not an expensive repair.

Regards,
Dusty

gtownguy · May 2005

Hi Dusty;
Where is it located, look like, and approx $..
I have an extended warrantee so for my deduct.$50 is it worth it........
Thanks
Tom.

dustyk · May 2005

On your 2001 I think it's attached to the bottom of the fan motor housing. However, Dakota had a change where they were mounted to the floor pan. Not sure on your 2001.
I'm pretty sure the resistor is under $20. Not sure what Dodge will get for labor, but you might be close to your deductible.

Best regards,
Dusty

bpeebles · May 2005

What you describe is "engine knock" or "pre-ignition"... is there any chance you reciently filld up with fuel? Too-low octaine fuel is the most common cause of knocking under load. Try a tank full of hi-test fuel and see if the problem goes away.

If that does NOT cure the problem, then suspect lean-running conditions or carbon build-up in the combustion chambers. Somtimes, dirty injectors will not automize the fuel sufficently.

Worst case, you may have a mechanical probelm such as collapsed lifter or failing bearing.

lobsterman1 · May 2005

i think so on the mechanical.going to dealership tomm.thnxz

bcarter3 · May 2005

gtownguy, I also have a 2001 Dak. I replaced the resistor some time ago for the problem that you are experiencing. The resistor is about $10 at the dealer. It is mounted vertically in the fan case under the dash forward of the glove box. If you look under the dash on the passenger side you can see the five wires that go to the plug. It is easier if you remove the two attaching screws first and pull the resistor out with the plug attached. The plug has a locking catch that is a little difficult to figure out in place. Part # 4885635AC

Good luck, Dick

bookitty · May 2005

Here we were, tooling along on the Garden State Parkway and the "check engine" light came on. After affirming that I had oil, coolant and all of the belts in one piece, I proceeded to the nearest Dodge dealer in Manahawkin, NJ. It was late afternoon and I pulled the code, "P0442" and gave it to them. Got nothing but a dumb look and they asked for registration and mileage. I have an extended service plan with a $100.00 deductible. Well, it was the gas tank cap (not loose, but failed) and it cost me $100.00 plus $6.00 tax. But what could I do, as I was on the highway, and didn't have any options. As a matter of fact, I am taking the truck to PA on Thursday for routine LOF and probably could have had them read the code there. Anyhow, the light is out and I am also out; $106.00.

Bookitty

spzero · May 2005

i have a 1990 dodge dakota.2 wheel drive. 3.9 liter v6. i recently tried to install a cd player by myself. i think i might have blown a fuse or wire somewhere. the headlights,panel lights,and brake lights dont work. any advice

gtownguy · May 2005

Hi Dick;
Thanks Dick and all others who replied. I got the part (10.00) and replaced it last night. It works fine now. It was exactly where you said and thanks for the tip to remove it first before uncliping it. This site seems to be saving me more and more $, thanks!
Bookitty- sorry about your cap, same thing happened to me, but luckily someone said to try a $12. gas cap first. I did and it worked. Afterwards I took apart my 01 oem cap and saw why it failed. It had metal discs in there and they had corroded. (looked like some type of valveing).

Here's and update on my ride mechanically, 01 QC 4x4, 4.7 auto. 50k miles, at 2k bad injector,(warranty +poss. dealer trumped up to get work?),at 20k had sway bar bushings changed(warr.), at 30k had armrest hinge cover replaced(warr),had faulty headlight switch replaced under warr. at 35k, had bad fuel cap at 42k, had ball joint recall at 45k, changed plugs with oems at 47k (worn bad) , 50k blower resistor block, and recently used a lot of fuel inj cleaners and seemed to help idle.
Other than synt oil changes at every 5-6k ,tire rotation every 7-8k, a k&n air filter at 20k, and changed rear end oil to mob1 gear oil at 30k.
This summer plan to- change rear end fluid again(did not like some metal shavings in there), front diff, poss transfer and trans?, change antifreeze.
In fall plan- poss brakes, shocks??? I have an extended warr to 60k, but most of this little stuff after 36k I do myself as its not covered.

Thanks, I may not always post, but I do check frequently.
Tom.

techresindy · May 2005

Okay, we were able to get a new battery and start the truck. We took it in to have the alternator tested on the vehicle. It was showing up as faulty. We purchased a new one and installed it over the weekend.

By Monday, the battery was dead again and the engine died upon reaching work.

Just prior to dying, the engine revved up significantly and the voltage meter moved further to the left indicating less and less charge.

Two Questions:
We plan to have someone look at the computer now to see if there is anything wrong with that. Any items we should be looking out for when we talk to the technicians about the computer?

I have not seen the heat sensor under the battery... can you describe it for me?

Thanks for all the input!

Joe

dustyk · May 2005

I don't think the '91s had the battery temperature sensor. My son had a '91 and I don't remember seeing it.

From your incident description it just sounds like your not charging. If the alternator is proven to be good, there must be either a wiring or a voltage regulator problem.

Recheck that alternator. I've seen my share of aftermarket or rebuilt alternator fail quickly.

Good luck,
Dusty

bpeebles · May 2005

I agree with Dusty. The worst alternators are the ones that are "guaranteed for life" The reason they are soooo cheeep is that they DO NOT TEST THEM after rebuilding... they save money by letting the CUSTOMERS test them (by installing them in their cars) I know this because I have called the rebuilders and they said that the internal diodes are not even tested....just new bearings and brushes.

I have personally had to replace one of those "guaranteed for life" alternators 3 times before getting one that lasted longer than a month.

Depending on the amount of labor involved to replace the alternator, this may or may-not be a good way to go. On some vehicles, the entire bumper and radiator must be removed to replace the alternator.... in those cases, I would just purchanse a better replacement part to begin with.

A good rule of thumb to live by " A 'NEW' COMPONENT DOES NOT MEAN IT IS A 'GOOD' COMPONENT "

techresindy · May 2005

Well we took it in to have someone run some tests to see what was up. Now we are seeing cut wires, burned wiring harnesses and so forth, which we didn't see before. It makes sense to me that these could be causing shorts in the system that are draining the battery or not telling the alternator to charge the battery.

We have it going to an electrical shop now to see there is anything they can tell us. We will have them test the "new" alternator too while it's there to see if there is any indication it is bad.

We'll see what happens next.

Thanks for all the input!

Joe

beretta · May 2005

Hey Everyone,
I'm new but need help, I have been told there are two oxygen sensors on the 92 Dodge Dakota but can't find it. Found one before catalytic converter on passenger side approx. 16 to 18 inches before converter, this is a V8 5.2 with single exhaust. Before I rip what is left of my hair out I need HELP!!!!!!

fmrvette · May 2005

I've a week old 2005 Quad Cab. The truck has no body side moldings.

Has anyone added an aftermarket set, and if so can you supply source?

I added a tonneau cover and door edge protectors, but in my parking environment side moldings would be a paint saver.

Thanks!

Jim

fmrvette · May 2005

If anyone has installed a CB and antenna in a Quad Cab - how did you route the antenna cable?

Thanks!

Jim

mopar67 · May 2005

During my days as an undergrad, I worked two summers in a non-union sweat shop that rebuilt starters and alternators. Whether or not they were typical of the industry I don't know, but I do know on the A-Line group of starters and alternators, everything was replaced except the case and rotor. The E-Line, the 19.99 el cheapos got little more than new brushes, bushings in the drive end, and a nice coat of paint. Solenoids on Mopar and Delco were checked for opens and put on.
Matter of fact, the owner, who would rather run naked in the Indy 500 than spend a nickel, got his [non-permissible content removed] in the wringer with Delco when they discovered we were subbing eline units for A-Line but charging them full rebuilt price!

moabovepar · May 2005

I own a '02 Dakota QC 4.7L . My CEL came on recently and the code I got off the odometer reads "P 0601". I looked it up at allpar.com and it says "Internal powertrain control module fault condition. (failed memory checksum)" What exactly does this mean? Is it bad? I do have an extended warranty, don't know if it covers this though.
Please let me know what you think.

Thanks.
Jody

bpeebles · May 2005

I cannot speak for the SPECIFIC problem that you have... but my training in electronics and programming can explain "failed memory checksum"

All PROMs (Programmable Read Only Memory) have a checksum. It is basically all of the bits for the REAL program added togehter and saved as a single number.
So at anytime in the future, the validity of the saved program can be verified by adding together all the bits and checking that answer against this number. Thus the name "checksum"

Bottom line... if a "checksum error" ever shows up... the contents of the PROM has been compromized and is known to not match the original programming. Unfortunately a "checksum error" only can tell you that somting is wrong... not WHAT is wrong.

This checkum is also used by the factory techs to tell if somone has been messing with the programming of their onboard computer. (usually to improve perfomance by injecting more fuel or changing the timing)

If you have not been re-progamming your onboard computer, It sounds as if your computer may need to be replaced. It is a good thing you have that warantee.

bcarter3 · May 2005

Bruce is "right on the money" again. The Powertrain Diagnostics Manual addresses Code P0601-PCM Internal Controller Failure.
Possible Causes: Powertrain Control Module.
Action: Replace and program the PCM.
I Would think that your warranty would cover it.

Dick

alakatos · May 2005

I need help finding the location of the blower motor fan for my 1990 Dodge Dakota.
I'm 17 and trying to rebuild it. If the library was open I could get a manual for it, but not possible. Can ANYBODY PLEASE HELP ME?

dustyk · May 2005

My son had a '91. I'm pretty sure it's roughly located behind the glove box. You should be able to see the motor housing by looking upwards from the bottom of the dash in the area of the glove compartment.

Regards,
Dusty

dhathcock · May 2005

I bought my Quad in may of 04. About a month later I started feeling a vibration at around 43-44 mph. It got worst the warmer the temp was. My dealer said I had bad tires. I bought a new set of tires, and no change. The dealer said those tires were bad so I purchased a set of really good tires and still have the vibration. Toward the end of summer the vibration seemed to slow down after replacing an axle and bushings. Now it is warmer and the vibration is back. My dealer cannot figure it out. Anyone else with this problem? :mad: :lemon:

huge1johnston · May 2005

This tale is about a 2000 Dakota Sport Quad Cab, 4.7 L. engine.

Does anyone know what can happen to a 4.7 L. engine in a Dakota Sport if driven with the "check engine" light on? My truck went dead, I checked the code: p0207 & p0307 came up. I phoned the dealer, they said to drive it in to get it checked out. I did, with some dificultly. I had to drive in second gear, go to neutral when slowing down while keeping the rpm up above 1700. The dealer STILL doesn't know what is wrong, after installing a new injector and "brain", and now they're down into the engine.....$1250 later!

So, my question is: If I'm told to drive it in after telling them the codes, can a ruined "brain" do this kind of damage? It has no compression on cylinder 7, which says to me that the valve is kaput. Any ideas out there?

Many thanks.

bpeebles · May 2005

YIKES!! This would be the very first time I have ever heard of a 4.7L V8 having mechanical problems. How many miles do you have on it?

It is time to STOP LOOKING AT THE CODES and do some REAL mechanic work. Pull of those magnesium valvecovers and inspect the OHV mechinism.

How can they charge $1250 with a straignt face and NOT FIX THE PROBLEM. That is a bunch of BS!! Tell them to put the old parts back in and get your $$ back. This is not supposed to be a "guessing game" financed by your bank account.

I would be raising holy h$%#@$ with the service manager and seriously consider calling the States Atturney. This is an OBVIOUS swindle job they have pulled on you.

dustyk · May 2005

Depending on the axle ratio and tire size, 42-44 mph is about the speed you get torque converter lock up. But there are a lot more things to check first.

Drive shaft zero, drive shaft inclination, bad u-joint(s), bent wheel, poor tire-to-wheel radius match up, broken motor mount, or engine performance problems are possibilities.

Regards,
Dusty

dhathcock · June 2005

Thanks for the info. My tire dealer had checked and determined that I had two wheels out of round. One was replaced by the dealer and the other one was determined to be within specifications. I've had the ball joints replaced, sold the 2nd set of tires to a friend who said they were fine ( I told him up front about my problem). My truck rode smooth until I had pulled a 12 foot trailer with 2 four wheelers on board, combined weight of 2500 lbs or less. I'm beginning to wonder whats going on with dodge. I've had two different dealerships look at the problem.

dustyk · June 2005

Dodge-built vehicles have tires and wheels that are matched-mounted at the factory. Match-mounting means that the radial runnout of the tire and wheel are measured and the high spot of the tire is mounted at a point directly in line with the low spot of the wheel.

If you've ever noticed on Dodge trucks there are little round brightly colored sticky dots placed on the outboard side of a tire when the vehicle is new. These mark the apex of the tire's high spot. Chrysler measures the radial runnout of each wheel and places a mark, either a sticky dot or an embossed symbol ("x", "o") on the inside of the rim. When unmounting a tire on a new Dodge truck, the tire should be marked to ensure that it's remounted exactly in the same location.

When a dealer unmounts a tire they almost never remount correctly, and I know of no truck dealer or national brand tire dealer that checks tire and wheel runnout and match-mounts a tire. Some specialty tire dealers a a few wheel shops around here will do this.

Lately I've heard of more high tire runnout stories than I ever could remember, although lately they've been almost all F-150 stories. I do know of one person that had a RAM with one wheel having high lateral runnout (wobble).

Best regards,
Dusty

mysty · June 2005

I got my 2005 dakota in March. I only have 1850 miles on it. I brought it to the dealer because it developed a really bad shimmy especially when I applied the brakes. It seemed to bump. They also felt the shaking and put in new front rotors. When I picked up the truck the shaking was still there especially as I was going down a hill and then putting on the brakes for the red light at the bottom of the hill. I turned around and brought it back to the dealer. They again felt it and said it was a shimmy in the rear end. They checked the rear brakes and said the drums were manufactured incorrectly and had to machine the drums. I now have the truck back and it still has a shimmy although not as bad. It does shake slightly when I brake. I don't know a whole lot about trucks but it doesn't feel right to me. Are they supposed to drive so rough or should I take it back again? :confuse: (3rd time)
mystie

dustyk · June 2005

No. Based on what I heard from '05 owners, the new Dakota is exceptional smooth for a truck.

Sounds like your dealer's service staff is doing a little guesing and not troubleshooting.

Keep us posted.

Regards,
Dusty

dhathcock · June 2005

I think my problem was a little different than yours. My truck did ride extremely well when I first purchased it, until the vibration or shimmy started. After two dealers, and the 2nd dealer I believe would have liked to repair the truck, stated that he couldn't just start changing parts because chrysler would charge him back if they hadn't identified the problem. One of the reasons that I purchased a dodge was for the warranty. However, with a vibration present, what would be the condition of the truck, the day after the warranty runs out. I couldn't stand it anymore so I got rid of the truck. Sorry but what good is a warranty if it can't be fixed. One thing I did notice with my truck, the brakes just aren't that good, try pulling about 2500 lbs. (1/2 of what they claim) and see how long it takes to stop. If you're planing on keeping your truck stay on your dealer and by all means get a copy of each service for later reference. Good luck!

rich14 · June 2005

my truck developed a miss last week, starts ok and idels ok but when your driving along and give it gas it misses , any suggestions will be very helpfull.

dustyk · June 2005

How many miles?

The first thing I'd check is all the connections to the spark plug coils. If they're okay you might have a worn or cracked spark plug or punky coil.

Regards,
Dusty

duncedodgeownr · June 2005

Ok,

Before I get AAA or the service center involved I wanted to check on the boards here. I've got a '02 Dakota Quad 4X4 Sport 4.7, which I absolutely love. I haven't had any problems with it...until now. It has 61k miles and wouldn't start today. It seemed like the battery (little to no power and clicking noise when start). After jumping however the car would idle very briefly and then die. My initial thoughts are 1) the battery is totally shot and can't keep a charge to no matter what's happening the alternator won't help. That being said, I'd think it would keep running even then with pass through voltage. 2) It could be the alternator, I have a little juice left in the battery, however it won't charge up.

I can't drive it in it's current condition because it won't stay running. Is there anyway I can diagnose whether it's an alternator issue without a voltimeter?

Thanks in advance.

rich14 · June 2005

dusty, you was right on the nose. it has 80,000 miles on it , i ordered a set of plugs yesterday and installed them last night and one plug looked like the porcellon (spelling) was stained, like it was leaking. no miss now!!! thanks

hasel · June 2005

Sounds like you need a Battery

ron35 · June 2005

Sounds to me from everything you describe that it is the battery. They are usually good for about 3 years, even my heavy duty only lasted 3 1/2 years. Also sounds as though you are going to need a new battery no matter what so I would definitely start there. Another factor is that I haven't heard of many alternator problems with the 4.7 engine in the 5 years I have been monitoring this and other Dakota boards.

Ron35

ccrfan · June 2005

I need help! When I use my cruise control, it misses and drops anywhere from 100-200 rpm. The slower I go, the more this occurs (2001 V6 Quad cab). I just got the truck back from the Dodge dealer yesterday and they were unable to solve the problem. I've read that there is a black ball that is connected to a vaccum hose and if this hose has a crack, this could be the problem. Does anyone know about this so-called black ball and where it's located?

dustyk · June 2005

There appears to be a strange relationship between the battery and the rest of a Dakota.

Something about the electronics makes the Dak very sensitive to the condition of the battery. I have witnessed rough idle, stalling, intermittent illumination of all of the instrument cluster gauges or just a malfunction lamp, erratic "P" codes, the door chime going off randomly, and even poor fuel consumption, conditions that went away for a long, long time as soon as the battery was replaced.

There's also a certain population of the factory batteries not going very far. I think one individual in here had to replace a battery under two years.

My recommendation is to replace the battery with a good unit and re-evaluate your charging and electrical system. I'm guessing that once the battery is replaced it'll be okay.

Please keep us posted.

Best regards,
Dusty

dustyk · June 2005

I think you'll find that on your 2001 Dakota everything in the speed control system is electronic, so there's no more vacuum line going to the speed control servo.

However, you could have a cracked vacuum hose somewhere else. I would suspect that the vacuum line going to the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) is okay because you're not indicating any other maladies. If there was a vacuum leak to the PCM I'd suspect there would be other symptoms. not sure as of yet how the cruise control being enabled could cause this problem.

Have you been able to pull any fault codes out of it?

Regards,
Dusty

tcsmpsi · June 2005

Many of the newer vehicles are VERY sensitive to the condition of the battery.

In the case of the Dak in mention, I am actually suprised that it was able to be 'jumped off' at all.

With regard to vehicles in the 21st century, I would not (and do practice the same) even consider 'jumping one off'. Just go ahead and use that time and energy to get a new battery, paying close attention to the type battery and installation procedure.

Newer vehicles work solely off an electronic chain of command, directed by a computer. Just like any computer, they are very susceptible to electrical interference and/or deviation.

dodgedakotaguy · June 2005

I have a 1991 dodge dakota 4X4 with a automatic transmittion and a 318 V-8 motor, it has electric locks and windows along with air conditioning, pretty much loaded and it has 192,000 miles. Here is my question i have a charging problem it has a nippendenso alternater, i had the alternater checked out it is putting out 18 volts and 92 amps so it is working good. I asked about a voltage regulater and what i have heard is the voltage regulater is located in the computer, is this true and if it is true where do i find the computer and what does it look like. I have looked under the dask and even took the dash apart as much as i could and didnt see anything that i thought was a computer but then again im not sure what it looks like. Can you please help me locate the computer and can you tell me if this is true that the voltage regulater is in the computer. I also forgot to tell you it does charge just enough to not run the battery down unless i use the lights and a bunch of electrical things. Thanks for your help on this.......

forester1 · June 2005

I recently had the transmission on my 01 Dakota 3.9L V6 4X4 overhauled due to O.D snap ring chunks found in the transmission, and bad Gov Sol. After getting the truck back, I've noticed an annoying squeeking/soft rattling sound coming from below the dash or floor, but only when the truck is in gear. The transmission runs great, but I can't figure out whats causing this noise. I just wanted to check and see if anyone has heard or experienced this, and if so, what was found as the cause.
Thanks
Forester

Dodge Dakota: Problems & Solutions

Comments

Helpful Tools

Most popular vehicles

Dodge Dakota: Problems &amp; Solutions

Comments

Helpful Tools

Most popular vehicles

Dodge Dakota: Problems & Solutions