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Dodge Dakota: Problems & Solutions
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Comments
-Clint
Regards,
Dusty
Thanks again,
Jeremy
Any Ideas?
Jody
Any suggestions before I start looking for this problem from scratch?
Thanks!
I'd like to swap my AM/FM/Cass stock radio for one with a CD player. Lots on Ebay but I don't know which years might be compat.. Was there a change in 2001?
Jay
Is there any one that has had that problem or knows what i mean can you post a reply to me.
Thanks
Josh :confuse:
Thanks for any input.
At that time ..... I chose not to fix it.
But now I want to fix it. I checked out all the circuitry as prompted in my Haynes manual it it appeared to be alright. It had no recommended value for the electromagnet ring but mine showed zero ohms.
I bought a used guaranteed-good AC clutch and changed it today. AC does still not work. The second electromagnetic ring also reads 0 ohms. I read another message which talked about a 3.7 ohm value for some AC component but did not understand which one.
So .... what's my problem? Is it the electromagnetic ring or something else?
Thanks, Greg.
Two-thousand sounds like they want to rebuild.
Regards,
Dusty
-- thanks
Nick
I have determined that the used replacement clutch which I installed is blowing the fuse immediately. Have checked out the circuit extensively and have not been able to locate short. When I plug a light into the circuit instead of the clutch ..... no fuses blow and everything works fine.
I am blaming the replacement parts and chasing the seller for another replacement.
I still would like to know the proper resistance of electromagnetic ring. The 2 or 3 ohms that I have on both rings (I initially thought it was zero) seems like a virtually non-existant load. :confuse:
Does any one know what is the proceedure to flush the steering fluid myself?
I finally received my speed sensor from the autopartsstore.com. I just finished installing it (took about 20 minutes including the jackup and down)and my problem has been fixed. I don't know how long this sensor will hold up, but it sure beats paying the dealer $50 plus. I would suggest that anyone with a modicum of mechanical knowledge can replace this.
Thanks everyone for the assist.
George
Since I had a SPECIFIC problem that I was trying to fix (hard steering at -20F) I went a step further. First, I did the above until the fluid was almost water-clear.
Then, I purchased RedLine PS fluid. I pulled off the return hose from the resivour and lowered into a bucket. Then turned the wheels lock-to-lock several times remove as much fluid as I could... then installed the RedLine fluid.
The good news is that FOR THE 1st TIME EVER.... my Dakota will now steer when the outside temp. is below -15F.
DONT FORGET THAT THE NEWER DAKS (2000 and above) HAVE A TSB ABOUT THE PS FLUID. SYNTHETIC FLUID IS RECOMMENDED.
of course...my truck also overheats the same time the fuse blows. I dont have a problem as long as I keep moving, but unfortunately chicago traffic isnt agreeing with my trucks need to keep moving.
I'm thinking I need to replace the whole fan, but new they cost about 450 bucks! I'm a poor college student, any suggestions or cheap things I could try first?
If the timing is set correctly, there is a short list of usual suspects. The rattling noise is likely combustion detonation (pinging) and it can be caused by worn distributor shaft bushings, bad spark plugs or wires, or a leaking intake manifold.
Regards,
Dusty
I have an '02 QC 4.7L Automatic with around 75,000 miles. Lately every now and then when I take off from a stop, the rpms will climb to around 2-3000 rpms. This seems to happens more when it is really hot outside. Sometimes though, it runs fine. It's like when I accelerate, the rpms will rise like it's in neutral, then slowly decrease as I pick up speed. Am I correct saying that there maybe a problem with the tranny? Luckily, I do have an extended warranty. Please help, any input would be greatly appreciated.
Thank You.
Jody :confuse:
The Dodge dealer that I have been a customer of for 35+ years told me it would be $79.00 to connect their diagnostic equipment up to the truck while I was at their service bay doing an oil change,how is that for customer service?
It was not even my truck,it was my son in laws truck.They do mine too and others I bring to them and they wouldn't even give me a break!!!
I am 99% sure that my problems will be solved if I ever get the right part in there but I sure hate having to go under the truck twice to make it happen.
As I said before,I went to great trouble to spell out just what I needed in the comment box of the order form so they should have sent the right part to begin with.After several minutes on the phone with their parts guy looking up my part he asked me if it was the cam position sensor............OH BOY..............I can see why they sent the wrong part.:)) Ron G
Check the transmission fluid on a level surface, with the engine hot and idling. Low transmission fluid could give you this problem.
Regards,
Dusty
You might have a sticky 1-2 shift solenoid valve. This probably means the valve body is gummy. How many miles on the vehicvle? Have you performed routine transmission maintenance? Have you ever put Dexron-Mercon ATF in this truck?
Regards,
Dusty
Anyway, I mentioned to them that I was getting some "clunking" noise from the front end, always when making a left turn and going over a bump or dip of some type. I told the service writer that I thought it might be the right upper ball joint.
A few hours later I got a call that my truck was ready. When I got there I was told that the right upper ball joint was definitely bad, but they changed both since they are under extended factory warranty. I was pleased to learn that they also did a complete front-end alignment, also under warranty. The Dakota drives solid and straight, just like new.
Anyway, here's a pitch for a job well done by a dealer:
Marina Dodge, Webster, New York.
Regards,
Dusty
Thanks,
Jody
Thanks for your help'
Jody
Regards,
Dusty
Dusty
Anyone who has a 2001 Quad Cab (can't guarantee that they are all the same) that experiences this problem, the CTM is the module that is behind the DRIVERS SIDE kick panel. It has 3 multi-wire plugs in it. Three screws hold it in. All you have to do to change it is disconnect the battery and unplug the plugs. Remove the old one, install the new one, and reverse the rest of the process. Simple and fast.
Thanks again!
JW
Why did they replace the brake components so many times? They are easy enough to check wear/warp/round.
I wouldn't know about the seats. On any new vehicle (or even used one) one of the very first things we do is cover the seats, with a towel or blanket if nothing else.
Replacing the factory 'mud flaps' on the front with larger ones should help with the beating of your paint (another one of those things we always see to on our vehicles). If one travels rocky or other 'debris' strewn roads, without good flaps the paint in the area you mention is always going to be beaten.
The only 'vibration' I noticed on ours, was when the brakes are applied. After checking with the dealer, and them checking, we found that the anti-lock is set to operate at a lower pressure than previous models (which is what it felt like).
However, all that stated, we have the ol' plain jane version, wheels, tires, etc.
Which is one of the things I have found over the years, is that the base models tend to be less problematic overall. Part of that could just be somewhat due to my particular lack of fondness for whizgitchits on a vehicle.
Thanks
How can I find the fault code without taking it in to the dealership?
Thanks
Regards,
Dusty