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Dodge Dakota: Problems & Solutions

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Comments

  • sportstud4891sportstud4891 Member Posts: 3
    Alright thanks, yeah it was the same wheel for both calipers so I'll try changing the lines. Appreciate the advice haven't heard anyone tell me that yet.

    -Clint
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    Have you checked the pick-up assembly inside the distributor?

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • 68valiant68valiant Member Posts: 4
    Thanks Dusty. I re-tightened the ground on the CTM and cleaned the battery terminals. It has yet to malfunction. I am planning to replace the battery this weekend. If that doesn't fix it, I will to take it to the dealer.

    Thanks again,
    Jeremy
  • moaboveparmoabovepar Member Posts: 11
    Hello once again! My '02 Quad Cab produces a lot of engine noise when I step on the accelerator. I notice that the RPMs shoot up and engine noise increases louder than normal. This generally happens on really hot days here in Phoenix. I had my T-Stat replaced and radiator flushed and filled twice now and apparently that didn't do it. It doesn't make the noise all the time. I've gotten advice that maybe this is a transmission problem. The RPMs will shoot up to 6 maybe 7000 then it will shift down and run normal, when I do hear the eccessive engine noise, it's only when I accelerate from a complete stop. It's an automatic transmission by the way.

    Any Ideas?
    Jody
  • moaboveparmoabovepar Member Posts: 11
    Actually, it's more like 4 to 5000 that it will shoot up to...like it's in neutral.
  • motojaymotojay Member Posts: 2
    I just bought a used Dakota with 51K mi. Truck is in great shape, bought it private sale. On the test drive, I tried using the directional and it wasn't working. Owner said it was a coincidnece... Drove home, changed 25A fuse and all good. Put about 250 mi. on it so far and last night it blew AGAIN.

    Any suggestions before I start looking for this problem from scratch?

    Thanks!
  • motojaymotojay Member Posts: 2
    Anyone know about stock radio wiring harness compatibility?

    I'd like to swap my AM/FM/Cass stock radio for one with a CD player. Lots on Ebay but I don't know which years might be compat.. Was there a change in 2001?

    Jay
  • eden818eden818 Member Posts: 1
    Hi i have a problem. When i start my 99 dodge dakota sport truck up and then put it into drive the truck will accelerate but it hesitates to go into 2nd gear. After the first time it will not do it again. i stop and the go again and it is fine it is just at the beginning of every start.
    Is there any one that has had that problem or knows what i mean can you post a reply to me.

    Thanks
    Josh :confuse:
  • blue99rtblue99rt Member Posts: 1
    Man i saw your fruxtation with tire kingdom and i was like wow i will never even think of using tire kingdom again. i wanted a simple alignment on my 99 dakota r/t. went in there and asked the guy if they could check it for me he was a smart [non-permissible content removed] about it and i am pretty sure he was the manager he said our guys dont go to school for many years to become certified to be forced to work for free. after they aligned it they told me when i hit a bump it will be out of alinment again. why did they do it if they new it couldnt be aligned? he told me it was the control arm bushings. they shop that changed the bushings for me said there was nothing wrong with the ones i had on there. i went somewhere else and had them done and weht back to tire kingdom to do the alignment since i had a 1 year guarantee on it. so i went to tire knigdom and said i wanted an alignment and they did it. this time they tried to say it had frame damage and thats why it would align correct. luckley the 1st guy i delt with wrote on on the paperwork that it need upper control arm bushings. i showed it to him and he said i can get my money back on the alignment. i still was getting mad with them anbd one guy said if i call the 800 number they will take care of all of ot. he called and they said all i can get back is the moneyu for the alinment. then they assistant manager said give me 24 hours and i will take care of it. he did i got my money back on the alinment and the other shops laber and the parts. then come to fine out it need upoper tie rod ends. after doing that i still heard the noise that i heard the second i drove away from tire kingdom. the shop looked at it were i had the tierod ends done. they said that tire kingdom didnt tighten something up like they were suppose to. tire kingdom sucks and i will never use them again heck i will recomend to anyone that is going to have repairs done not to use them.
  • 1992dakota1992dakota Member Posts: 1
    I have not had any major problems with my truck until now. There are two problems that may or may not be related. The first one is it starts fine, and then after driving for a couple of minutes, it will hestitate, like it is going to quit, and I hear a clicking noise the whole time, then it will run fine. It does this several times a day. I have learned that when it starts acting up, if I shift into neutral, the rpms will rev up, and then it will go to normal idle speed, and then I can shift back into drive and all is fine. It does this more at low speeds than high speeds. The second problem is when I am at high speeds, the transmition acts like it wants to shift. I feel a bump every so often. It does not do this if the overdrive is off.
  • johndakjohndak Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1997 Dakota 2WD auto trans V8, 112k miles The "ENGINE CHECK" light came on this weekend, however the truck seemed to be running fine. I figured ok, the O2 sensor or something like that had gone. I took it to a dealer this morning and they said the check engine light was caused by no drop in RPM when it goes into OD, therefore, the torque converter is going. Bottom line - remove trans, replace torque converter, cost $2000. I am not sure this is a valid chain of logic based on the check engine light indicator. Has anyone else had this same problem? Any thoughts on where I should go from here? Second opinion? Trade? Leave it alone and chance trans failure and additional cost?

    Thanks for any input.
  • problemchildproblemchild Member Posts: 2
    My air conditioning stopped working about 15 monthes ago. It would work initially (when cool ambient temp) but would stop when I actually needed. I took it into a garage to get checked out/recharged. The mechanic took a quick look and told me that the AC clutch was burned out ...and could not handle any real load. At some point it stopped even partially working.
    At that time ..... I chose not to fix it.
    But now I want to fix it. I checked out all the circuitry as prompted in my Haynes manual it it appeared to be alright. It had no recommended value for the electromagnet ring but mine showed zero ohms.
    I bought a used guaranteed-good AC clutch and changed it today. AC does still not work. The second electromagnetic ring also reads 0 ohms. I read another message which talked about a 3.7 ohm value for some AC component but did not understand which one.
    So .... what's my problem? Is it the electromagnetic ring or something else?
    Thanks, Greg.
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    My guess would be the torque converter clutch is not operating. I'd suspect other problems if the torque converter itself was bad.

    Two-thousand sounds like they want to rebuild.

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • mike05dakotamike05dakota Member Posts: 1
    05 Dakota Laramie 7000 miles and a bad shimmy that peaks around 40mph. I have had it in for service......Turned rotors, turned drums, Rotate & High speed balance. NO resolution. Still shakin. Dealer takes it for a test drive and says its fine and the next time I hop in the vehicle I find myself a 1/4 mile from the dealership heading down the hill for a stop light and Yysyydyyddyydyddyydyd My teeth start chattering...It is not absolutelty consistant. I have had the air bag light illuminate one time while breaking at highway speeds. I hope they can find a solution for all of us.
  • npsltnpslt Member Posts: 1
    I have the same problem -- What is the part number of the AC clutch?
    -- thanks
    Nick
  • gunrunr1gunrunr1 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 95 dakota v-8 5spd 85000mi , I'm experiencing engine noise( knocking-rattling-pinging, etc.), mostly when leaving from a dead stop, and then when I accelerate from low rpms. I use reg-unleaded, and 30w pennzoil. I live in the vegas desert so I hear it more in the summer mo. I'm the 2nd owner, the original owner used the truck to tow a 24ft trl from vegas to denver, I also have a loud squeak when I release the clutch in the lower gears, is this the throw-out bearing?
  • problemchildproblemchild Member Posts: 2
    I don't know the part number. I have been dealing with used parts. All the V-8s of that time, seem to use the same compressor/clutch assembly.

    I have determined that the used replacement clutch which I installed is blowing the fuse immediately. Have checked out the circuit extensively and have not been able to locate short. When I plug a light into the circuit instead of the clutch ..... no fuses blow and everything works fine.

    I am blaming the replacement parts and chasing the seller for another replacement.

    I still would like to know the proper resistance of electromagnetic ring. The 2 or 3 ohms that I have on both rings (I initially thought it was zero) seems like a virtually non-existant load. :confuse:
  • cachercacher Member Posts: 1
    My dealer just suggested this when I went in for driveline service. He said it would cost $79.95.
    Does any one know what is the proceedure to flush the steering fluid myself?
  • bbrain44bbrain44 Member Posts: 3
    pentastar,
    I finally received my speed sensor from the autopartsstore.com. I just finished installing it (took about 20 minutes including the jackup and down)and my problem has been fixed. I don't know how long this sensor will hold up, but it sure beats paying the dealer $50 plus. I would suggest that anyone with a modicum of mechanical knowledge can replace this.
    Thanks everyone for the assist.

    George
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    I have replaced (flushed) my PS fluid several times. If you are not worried about using up a bit of fluid.... then it is VERY simple to do. Just suck the resivour empty and replace with fresh fluid .... then drive for a couple days and repeat. Just keep doing this until you are satisfied that you have diluted the old fluid with enough new fluid.

    Since I had a SPECIFIC problem that I was trying to fix (hard steering at -20F) I went a step further. First, I did the above until the fluid was almost water-clear.

    Then, I purchased RedLine PS fluid. I pulled off the return hose from the resivour and lowered into a bucket. Then turned the wheels lock-to-lock several times remove as much fluid as I could... then installed the RedLine fluid.

    The good news is that FOR THE 1st TIME EVER.... my Dakota will now steer when the outside temp. is below -15F.

    DONT FORGET THAT THE NEWER DAKS (2000 and above) HAVE A TSB ABOUT THE PS FLUID. SYNTHETIC FLUID IS RECOMMENDED.
  • firecaptsweenefirecaptsweene Member Posts: 1
    My air conditioning stopped working about 9 monthes ago. It would work initially (when cool ambient temp) but would stop when I actually needed. I took it into a garage on base to get checked out/recharged. The helper mechanic took a quick look and told me that the electric fan fuse was burned out. Replaced the fuse and it worked... for about 2 days... basically I can keep replacing the fuse I there isnt a problem, but I dont consider that fixing the problem.

    of course...my truck also overheats the same time the fuse blows. I dont have a problem as long as I keep moving, but unfortunately chicago traffic isnt agreeing with my trucks need to keep moving.

    I'm thinking I need to replace the whole fan, but new they cost about 450 bucks! I'm a poor college student, any suggestions or cheap things I could try first? :(
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    The loud squeak when operating the clutch could be the throw-out bearing or the pivot arm in the clutch housing.

    If the timing is set correctly, there is a short list of usual suspects. The rattling noise is likely combustion detonation (pinging) and it can be caused by worn distributor shaft bushings, bad spark plugs or wires, or a leaking intake manifold.

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • moaboveparmoabovepar Member Posts: 11
    Hello again all,

    I have an '02 QC 4.7L Automatic with around 75,000 miles. Lately every now and then when I take off from a stop, the rpms will climb to around 2-3000 rpms. This seems to happens more when it is really hot outside. Sometimes though, it runs fine. It's like when I accelerate, the rpms will rise like it's in neutral, then slowly decrease as I pick up speed. Am I correct saying that there maybe a problem with the tranny? Luckily, I do have an extended warranty. Please help, any input would be greatly appreciated.

    Thank You.
    Jody :confuse:
  • choppeddroppedchoppeddropped Member Posts: 4
    works great thanks dustyk
  • pentastarpentastar Member Posts: 4
    Thank you for taking the time to respond.I finally got in touch with Tenafly after 6 phone calls and they are sending the right part I hope after I returned the one they sent in error.
    The Dodge dealer that I have been a customer of for 35+ years told me it would be $79.00 to connect their diagnostic equipment up to the truck while I was at their service bay doing an oil change,how is that for customer service?
    It was not even my truck,it was my son in laws truck.They do mine too and others I bring to them and they wouldn't even give me a break!!!
    I am 99% sure that my problems will be solved if I ever get the right part in there but I sure hate having to go under the truck twice to make it happen.
    As I said before,I went to great trouble to spell out just what I needed in the comment box of the order form so they should have sent the right part to begin with.After several minutes on the phone with their parts guy looking up my part he asked me if it was the cam position sensor............OH BOY..............I can see why they sent the wrong part.:)) Ron G
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    It does sound like a transmission. Do you know which transmission you have?

    Check the transmission fluid on a level surface, with the engine hot and idling. Low transmission fluid could give you this problem.

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    I'm assuming you have a automatic transmission.

    You might have a sticky 1-2 shift solenoid valve. This probably means the valve body is gummy. How many miles on the vehicvle? Have you performed routine transmission maintenance? Have you ever put Dexron-Mercon ATF in this truck?

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    Running out of free time I had my dealer replace the front pads and rotors on my 2003 Club Cab at 45,000 miles. This is the first time in twenty years someone else has done a brake job for me.

    Anyway, I mentioned to them that I was getting some "clunking" noise from the front end, always when making a left turn and going over a bump or dip of some type. I told the service writer that I thought it might be the right upper ball joint.

    A few hours later I got a call that my truck was ready. When I got there I was told that the right upper ball joint was definitely bad, but they changed both since they are under extended factory warranty. I was pleased to learn that they also did a complete front-end alignment, also under warranty. The Dakota drives solid and straight, just like new.

    Anyway, here's a pitch for a job well done by a dealer:

    Marina Dodge, Webster, New York.

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • moaboveparmoabovepar Member Posts: 11
    I believe I have the 45RFE tranny. I will check fluid level tomorrow. I've owned it for only almost 5 months now and this just started happening only recently.

    Thanks,

    Jody
  • moaboveparmoabovepar Member Posts: 11
    Just checked fluid, it looks fine, coating on both sides of the dipstick up to "Hot". Maybe it has something to do with the torque converter. I'll have to take it to the dealer and have them check it out. Luckily my warranty will cover it.
    Thanks for your help'

    Jody
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    A bad Throttle Position Sensor will produce the same symptoms.

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • wheelssswheelsss Member Posts: 1
    If I stand on the accelerator in park the rev limiter cuts the engine in 1000rpm increments starting at 2500rpm drops to a 1000rpm then goes to 3500rpm drops to 2500rpm then 4500rpm drops to 3500 so on and so forth. Never held it long enough to really know what "red line" is. This seems kind of unusual to me. Anybody else notice this . Also this is a Sport Plus straight model and it runs ok but it won't hardly turn the tires over. Whats up? wheelsss
  • skiptskipt Member Posts: 1
    I have a1995 dakota that wont idle when it warms up gos up and down and gets rough and dies runs great down the road and when cold idles good i have changed o2 sensor iac valve temp sensor egr valve and transducer coil plugs wires cap and rotor button can anyone pleeeeezzzz ! help me. its a 3.9 magnum with 46000 actual miles thank you skip .
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    Could be the Throttle Position sensor, cracked vacuum line, or a bad intake manifold gasket.

    Dusty
  • Karen_SKaren_S Member Posts: 5,092
    I sent you an email awhile ago and have not received a reply. When you get a chance, drop me an email. Address is in my profile.
  • slimjimslimjim Member Posts: 3
    We purchased a 2005 Dodge Dakota Quad Cab in December and have had nothing but trouble since the day we got it. It has been at the dealership atleast 15 times since then. One of our problems is a bad vibration, they have put new front rotors on it three times, front brake shoes two times and a new set of rear drums and shoes twice and the vibration is still present. We also have problems with all of the seats in the truck if the door is opened up and it is raining and any water gets on the seats it leaves a big white mark kinda like when salt gets on something. And we also have a major issue with the paint; I don't know how many people hand was their vehicles anymore but if you own a 2005 Dakota Quad Cab you should and pay special attention to the bottom portion of the doors between the front and rear tires. Our paint is all chipping away and when we showed this to the dealership they said that the body style and tires are creating like a sandblaster by picking up all of the debrise off the road and blasting it into the side of my truck. Does anyone else have these same problems
  • reddakotareddakota Member Posts: 5
    i'm new here so, please bear with me. can anyone tell me where the low pressure port is for a 98 dakota sport with a 2.5 L engine. i have conflicting data on which port is the low pressure one.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    I have no clue what your specific setup is... but if you follow the plumbing, it should be apparent. The LOW pressure side is commonly between the reciever/drier jar and the compressor.
  • reddakotareddakota Member Posts: 5
    thank you. ithink i have it figured out now!
  • 83cj583cj5 Member Posts: 1
    unless you already got it fixed and you have a very good extended warranty the problem lies in the processor assembly. i have the problem with my durango. and i have a very good extended warranty but the brains of the damn truck aren't covered. but i got lucky and my uncle hooked me up with a very good guy he knows to fix it for half of what a dealer charges.
  • reddakotareddakota Member Posts: 5
    has anyone had a problem with their a/c? my seems to work off and on. some days it blows super cold and on others it blows warm air. has this happened to anyone else?
  • 68valiant68valiant Member Posts: 4
    Problem solved! The CTM (Central Timer Module)was bad. I put a new battery in and the problem persisted, so I took it back. Ordered a new CTM from my dealer. The part number has been superceded 4 times. That should tell you something. The total (without installation since I put it in myself in the parking lot) was $220. Then all that I needed was to have the keyless entry remotes programed which they did for free. As an added bonus for me, the Daytime Running Lights are not activated on the new CTM so now I no longer have them. That has been a minor victory for me as well.

    Anyone who has a 2001 Quad Cab (can't guarantee that they are all the same) that experiences this problem, the CTM is the module that is behind the DRIVERS SIDE kick panel. It has 3 multi-wire plugs in it. Three screws hold it in. All you have to do to change it is disconnect the battery and unplug the plugs. Remove the old one, install the new one, and reverse the rest of the process. Simple and fast. :)

    Thanks again!
    JW
  • tcsmpsitcsmpsi Member Posts: 31
    Hmmmmm....well, we got our '05 quad in November, and have had none of the problems which you list.

    Why did they replace the brake components so many times? They are easy enough to check wear/warp/round.

    I wouldn't know about the seats. On any new vehicle (or even used one) one of the very first things we do is cover the seats, with a towel or blanket if nothing else.

    Replacing the factory 'mud flaps' on the front with larger ones should help with the beating of your paint (another one of those things we always see to on our vehicles). If one travels rocky or other 'debris' strewn roads, without good flaps the paint in the area you mention is always going to be beaten.

    The only 'vibration' I noticed on ours, was when the brakes are applied. After checking with the dealer, and them checking, we found that the anti-lock is set to operate at a lower pressure than previous models (which is what it felt like).

    However, all that stated, we have the ol' plain jane version, wheels, tires, etc.
    Which is one of the things I have found over the years, is that the base models tend to be less problematic overall. Part of that could just be somewhat due to my particular lack of fondness for whizgitchits on a vehicle.
  • viciousvicious Member Posts: 1
    My 2003 Dakota is a 6 cyl and it does pretty good with gas. Recently however its been going threw gas like nothing, and using more than my 8 cyl Durango if not twice as much. I checked for leaks, and there aren't any, and I don't really know what to do. Any Ideas?
  • ashbyashby Member Posts: 3
    I think that my speed sensor is out but I don't know. When I slow down below 30 mph the speedometer falls and if I stop the truck stalls. Any Ideas before I spend $ 70 on a diagnostic test?
  • 03sxt03sxt Member Posts: 1
    I have a 03 Dakota SXT 4x4 which I bought used about 6 months ago. For the past two months several problems have been re-occuring with out much help from the dealer. The first - My dome light fuse seems to blow within hours of being replaced, The second - My right head light has gone out twice in several weeks, The third - My Highbeam indicator light will not function, Lastly - My MIL light has come on for a second time in a matter of weeks; the first time the dealer cleared it and said no problems were found. Any suggestions?

    Thanks
  • kirby34kirby34 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2002 Dakota Quad cab. The only way the blower works is when I have it on the highest setting, if I turn it down I get nothing. Any ideas? I would like to avoid a third trip to the dealer in two months!
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    That is a common problem among most of the vehicles I have owned over the years. Replace the blower-resister. I beleive it is installed in the air plenum behind the glovebox.
  • bcw238bcw238 Member Posts: 1
    '99 V6 automatic, check engine light came on first thing this morning right after I started up. Engine does not appear to be doing anything abnormal.
    How can I find the fault code without taking it in to the dealership?

    Thanks
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    A failed speed sensor will produce the symptom you're experiencing.

    Regards,
    Dusty
This discussion has been closed.