Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!

Dodge Dakota: Problems & Solutions

1…6869717374…87

Comments

  • jonesmonkeyjonesmonkey Member Posts: 1
    I was just wondering how many miles on a dakota engine would be considered a lot? mine has 170,000. is that an engine on its last legs? so far so good but it has a lot of miles
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    My son's old '91 Dakota has 303K on it and still going. When my son turned it over to the new owner at 270K it was still not using any oil.

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    The Central Timer Module (CTM) on '97s and up are located behind the trim panel that's between the parking brake pedal and the body, just below the instrument panel on the drivers side.

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    Yes, they do...and still do. I think on older Daks they were mounted to the bottom of the fan blower motor housing.

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • artgirlartgirl Member Posts: 1
    My husband has a 2001 Dakota SLT 4.7. He wants to know if there's any way you can disable the governor in it? There doesn't seem to be any superchips computer thing available for that year and engine size. What can he do?

    Thanks :confuse:
  • wisepmwisepm Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2003 Dakota SXT that has 27k on it (still under warrenty). I have had it in the shop 6 times for the same problem. The engine light keeps coming on and I do not have any acceleration power. The truck will get up to speed eventually, but I takes awhile. I have had O2 sensors, solenoids, ECM (twice), and various other parts replaced on it. This always seems to fix the problem for a little while. But, alas, I have the problem again. The dealer can not seen to get this problem fixed for more than a couple of months at a time. Any suggestions? I am really tired of wasting my time taking it in every couple of months. Should the dealer replace my truck?
  • phatblackdakphatblackdak Member Posts: 1
    Try you rear wheel speed sensor, about $40 at the dealership. My brother and I both have dakota r/t's and his had a similar problem.
  • ratt2581ratt2581 Member Posts: 1
    Two questions - with the P0152 - O2 Sensor: does my o2 sensor just need to be replaced or should i be looking for something else?

    On the P0442 EVAP small leak? what is this? Are the two related?

    I have a 2002 dakota and my ac/heat also went - it seems that its just the blower that went because no air flow comes out despite the fan setting, but if i leave the ac on and drive you can feel a slight ac flow coming out (particulary when driving at a faster speed). Its a real pain now since the humidty up here (PA) has been drenching - i cant drive without coming out covered in sweat.

    Any help on these would be greatly appreciated.

    Thanks

    ryan
    :sick:
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    Has the reason for the check engine lamp illuminating always been the same (same code)?

    Dusty
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    My first suspect for the P0442 is a bad gas cap. Very common.

    I'd be a little surprised that you have a failed O2 sensor on a '02, but anything is possible. I'd look for a bad connection in the O2 circuit first.

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • st1st1 Member Posts: 1
    Dusty,

    Great tip on the deteriorating rubber brake line. My friend has a 2001 Dakota club cab which he invested $350 with the dealer about a year ago replacing (passenger front) 1 caliper - both rotors (1 warped beyond reality) and a brake job / unfortunately most of which was not covered by his Dodge extended warranty. He has been noticing the passenger front wheel brake dragging again at times (1 year later) creating excess heat - whole wheel is hot to the touch. After another $30 inspection at the local Dodge dealer reported no issue found.

    Thanks

    Scott
  • bcarter3bcarter3 Member Posts: 145
    Superchips has a computer programmer for the 2001 Dakota 4.7. It is Part Number 3715.
  • gtownguygtownguy Member Posts: 73
    Well guys with the warm weather I was maybe thinking of changing my coolant partialy. Just the radiator and overflow amount. I called Prestone and got a lukewarm response to there new products. Not very clear just that there tested to be compatable.
    So anyways I thought since I was just doing a partial change I would keep it all the same and go with the more than double priced dealer stuff. I read these forums and beleived my truck needed the HOAT MS9769 G 05. And I thought the color meant nothing.
    I happened to check my 01 manual this am and read that there are two types: IAT (green) ( that's what the book says) and HOAT (orange). The part #'s respectively are 4267020 and 5011764ab. Now I'm not sure, but I think the color was green in the past, ( i added approx. 1/2 qt once to overflow bottle.).
    But how do I know what my truck has in it. Does it say anywhere?.... I was about to go to dealer and pay 19.50 gal. for the Hoat, but I'm so confused now that I may go to walmart and pay 8.50 gal for prestone they claim is compatible.....
    Any help would be appreciated.

    Thanks
    Tom.
  • tcsmpsitcsmpsi Member Posts: 31
    It is NOT compatible. You should be able to see the color of your fluid in your reservoir.

    I have not been able to tell by year model which fluid is applied. When asked at the dealership(s), their reply was the best way was to check current fluid (presuming it has remained the same as original).

    While on the subject of fluids, when it states to use ATF 4 in trannys, powersteerings, etc., USE it. Other fluids are NOT compatible with it either.

    Try mixing these fluids, and when one has to repair/replace due to a really flubbed up mess, well, no one is going to be sympathetic (dealers/manufacturers).

    I've been at the dealers and able to look at some of the 'fluids' which were mixed.
    It ain't a pretty site.

    If you have any doubt as to what you have or should use in your particular Dak, take it to the dealer. The money you save, may well be your own.
  • 68valiant68valiant Member Posts: 4
    I just replaced mine on July 1st. The CTM is $245, I got mine for $220 (parts guy gave me a break). (Check post number 3484) I replaced mine in the dealership parking lot. Here are some basic steps:

    First disconnect your battery. Then pull up the sill plate in the driver side door and remove the kick panel. The module is attached to the side behind that panel. It will have 3 separate plugs connected into it. Unhook those. There are three phillips head screws that secure it in place; remove those. With new new CTM just reverse the steps.

    If you have keyless entry you will have to have the service guys "program" your remotes in with a scanner. I think the whole process took less than 30 minutes.

    Good luck!
  • dakotav8dakotav8 Member Posts: 1
    Dusty, I have an 05' Dakota Club Cab 4.7 V8 with 5400 miles and I hear a clunking sound when hitting bumps. Brought into dealer but they said nothing was wrong with the truck. Will check the shocks and lube the sway bar links.
    Any other suggestions as to what may be the problem?

    Regards,
    Dennis
  • 94duhkota94duhkota Member Posts: 1
    I don't have the answer but I have a question. I have a 94 Dakota and the blower stopped working. When I bought the truck I didn't get an owner's manual. Can someone tell me where the fuse is located for the blower? Thanks
  • gtownguygtownguy Member Posts: 73
    Well, I went to dealer for another part and asked about the antifreeze on my 01 qc, 4.7. They said the only way to tell is to check the color of fluid. They also said with Dodge antifreeze only, the regular is green and the HOAT is orange/red. That is exactly what my manual said. I recall on this topic people saying they had green dodge HOAT???.
    I am going to check tomorrow. If its Hoat then to the dealer I go, if not (green) then to walmart.......

    Thanks
    Tom.
  • jimqjimq Member Posts: 14
    Mopar embittered antifreeze (HOAT) is actually Zerex G-05 and available at PEP boys for about half the dealers list.
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    Yeah...I may have contributed to this confusion. I did at one time believe that my '03 Dak with the 4.7 motor had HOAT because that's what it said on the overfill bottle. The coolant in mine is green. There is a website that talks about the different coolants and they discuss the fact that different coolants being the same color and there being no standard. This confusion was amplified by a discussion I had with a Dodge dealer's parts counter person who said that Mopar HOAT was green. He was incorrect.

    [http://www.vectorbd.com/peugeot/archive/99_8/0415.html]

    However, I believe that green in a Dodge truck is a Ethylene-Glygol based coolant, as opposed to a Propylene-Glygol which should not be used. It is not conventional glygol-based coolant, but a hybrid. Exactly what it is I do not know, but my discussions with Dodge technicians indicate that mixing anything else with it seems to destabilize the coolant and cause problems.

    At one time I knew who made the Chrysler HOAT and I'm not sure it was Zerex. I'm pretty sure it is NOT Texaco who makes DexCool.

    Sorry for the confusion.

    Dusty
  • usmcandersenusmcandersen Member Posts: 4
    if you have a manual tranny the wiring harness probably has rubbed down to the wire causing a short, therefore blowing the fuse. the problem is that the wiring harness runs next to the clutch, so everytime you push the clutch in it rubs the harness and shorts it out. you can check this out yourself by looking at it from underneath the vehicle by the clutch actuator. josh
  • gtownguygtownguy Member Posts: 73
    Well guys I changed my coolant, I only drained the radiator and sucked out the overflow bottle. (I guess only half changed then, but I'll do again in a couple years). Anyways, after i sucked out the antifreeze (green) of the overflow bottle, I took a rag and attached to a long stick and "mopped" up the bottom of the overflow bottle- loaded w/ "muck". I put in the Prestone all brand, all formula, type.-yellow bottle. Also changed my pwrsteer fluid, disconected bottom hose on resevoir and let it drain, refilled with new atf+4. I also changed my front and rear differential oils, I have a small oil pump and just sucked out the old oil, (again the easy way I guess)spent some time to be sure I got most and put in MOBil 1 75w-90 gear oil. I Paid $8 a qt., I wanted to put in MOB1 75w-140 (new) but that was $16 qt.. My towing is minimal and usually in the winter anyways.
    But I wanted to do my transfer case. It takes atf+4, does anyone know how many qts it holds. I'd like to buy the correct amount, pretty expensive and at dealer onl y around me.
    Thanks,
    Tom.
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    The NV233 transfer case takes 2.5 pints; the NV244 takes 2.85 pints.

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • steve528steve528 Member Posts: 3
    I had a 99 GMC Sierra short bed with a similar problem. Brand new from factory, it shook and shimmied after 30 mph. After many trips to dealer, always same story , nothing wrong. Filed for arbitration thru Illinois lemon law thru Better Business Bureau. They sent a certified A.S.E. independent mechanic to check it. Lo and behold the rear axle was not centered on the frame. Hope this helps you some.
  • steve528steve528 Member Posts: 3
    This noise sounds as if the spare tire is loose and banging on the bottom of the pickup bed. Somewhat of a hollow thumping noise. Checked brake cables under bed, they seem tight. Spare tire is tight also, cannot even wiggle it by hand. Makes the hollow noise when hitting bumps in road, or vibrations on a semi smooth surface, such as concrete. Salesman heard the noise on a test drive with me, But service techs 2 different appointments can't hear it. Any help will be greatly appreciated. 1600 miles, 4 wheel drive Laramie, Club cab, bed liner from Dodge. $30,000 truck shouldn't do this.
  • birdmandavebirdmandave Member Posts: 5
    I have read all the reply's with much interest. I took home an 05, quad, 4x2 V/6, on 7/23/05, don't do much towing. After a few days the wife and I felt a vibration or shimmy, what ever you call something thats not right. Took to dealer who diagnosed both (goodyear) left tires as bad. They were replaced, but I still fell as if at times I'm riding over small speed bumps. Only have 600 miles on it and already I hate going back to the dealer like going to the dentist. I think my next step will be an independent inspection by a local alignment shop to check the other tires and rims.I'll be keeping a close I eye on this topic.
  • birdmandavebirdmandave Member Posts: 5
    Took my 05, 4x2 V6, to investigate vibration. Not able to do a test ride, one service tech said check tir PSI, and set to whats on sticker on inside of driver door.
    Came with Goodyear 245/R70/16. Tire shows PSI @ 44, sticker on door shows 35 PSI. Any suggestions?
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    The 44 pounds listed on the sidewall is the maximum cold inflation pressure at which the tire's construction can withstand. Above that the tire becomes susceptible to cord separation and ultimately failure.

    The tire pressures listed on the manufacturers tire placard are the correct pressures for safe vehicle operation. Over inflation will cause rapid center wear and overcome the tires ability to absorb road shocks as well as causing directional instability problems. High tire pressures will also cause oscillations in the front suspension that will be transmitted through the steering system as hyper-feedback to the driver.

    Always refer to and abide by the tire pressures listed on the vehicle. I see trucks occasionally where the driver has intentionally over inflated the tires to 44 lbs. in an attempt to get better fuel mileage. On transport or truck tires, that's fine. But not on passenger car tires, which is what you have.

    Best regards,
    Dusty
  • abba85abba85 Member Posts: 1
    Hey, I have a 2001 dodge dakota sport and when i turn the air on anything but high, there is hardly any air at all coming out. What do I need to do to fix this. Thanks- Stephen :sick:
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    Replace the blower resister located behind the glovbox..
  • tcsmpsitcsmpsi Member Posts: 31
    Since my '01 quad, I have had the 'dilemma' of tire pressure. We (me and my chassis specialist of 20+ yrs) have been working with it since to determine the best pressure to run.

    My wife's PT and previous chrysler have also been under the same 'inspection'.

    With the tires that have come with the vehicles (same 44 lb limit Goodyear basic tires), we have found that the best response and wear is 39 lbs. That is currently what is being run in my '05 quad and my wife's PT.

    Since we (chassis guy and I) have been watching closely for that, he has also found that (they also sell/install tires...Remington tires predominantly) pressure has been working out best for most of their work, too.
  • fink44fink44 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 3.7 in my Dakota 4x4 and have had some problems backing up. The truck powers out and does not spin the tire when trying to climb a moderate grade in the gravel. In forward this does not occur the truck will climb the same grade with little effort or spin the tires trying. The transmission is not slipping the engine just powers out at 2000 rpm and the tires do not move. I have taken it to the dealer and they are going to compare it to another truck and see what happens but they do not have an answer for me yet. Has anyone else experienced a similar issue.

    Thanks
    Fink44
  • redsk1redsk1 Member Posts: 1
    when i have driven the truck for 30 minutes or so and am going at highway speed, if i let off the gas the transmission will downshift from overdrive to the next lower gear and the rpm's go up to 3000 or more. the truck sould not downshift at speeds of 60 mph when i let off the gas. has anyone else had this problem ? and if so what was the cause ? i have a 99 dodge dakota 4x4 sport.any help will be greatly aprecceated
  • moaboveparmoabovepar Member Posts: 11
    Hello again ! I was leaving for work this morning and noticed my CEL was on again! I checked for a code and got P0455, so I ran inside to find out what that was at allpar.com and it said "Evaporative Emission System Leak Detected". It doesn't sound like a big thing, but does anyone know what that could be?? Someone told me I could just be water in my intake. It's an '02 QC 4.7L Auto. :mad:

    Thanks guys,

    Jody
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    P0455 is not related to "water in intake" (I assume this means "intake manifold")

    Instead, P0455 means "Evaporative Emission System Leak Detected" (just like you said.) In the past, I have described in technical detail the diagnostics and conditions that can flag a P0455 error. Please review the forum archives to see those details.

    As a quick check, make sure your fuel cap is on tightly and not leaking gasoline vapors.
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    Typically, the majority of the time a P0455 is caused by a defective fuel cap. On older Daks there are some rubber fuel vapor lines that go from the fuel tank to the evaporative canister thast split.

    Best regards,
    Dusty
  • twdartytwdarty Member Posts: 2
    My check engine light came on, it's been starting rough in the mornings & not wanting to take gas very easy. I unhooked the battery & reset everything, that worked for about 3 days, now it's back on again. How can I code this up myself? Do I need to buy a kit or what? It's a '98 dakota 4x4 with a 318. thanks, Terry
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    to find out the code that flagged the CEL

    without starting engine -- key ON-OFF-ON-OFF-ON then leave in ON position.That will put the computer into diagnostics mode. Watch the display as it shows you the code. (if multiple codes exist, they will alternate on the display)
  • twinsprttwinsprt Member Posts: 2
    does anyone know how I remove the two top rear shock mount bots on my Daknota without removing the whole box
  • twinsprttwinsprt Member Posts: 2
    does anyone have the name of a special tool to remove the top shock mounting bolts on my Dakota. The only way I can see is to remove the box. Any ideas? Im not an engineer and obvioulsy this has been designed for ease of assembally not taking into account the an owner may want to replace the shocks at some time without removing the box
  • twdartytwdarty Member Posts: 2
    Thanks, I'll give it a try today...Terry
  • regnarregnar Member Posts: 10
    Has anyone had this problem and if so what is the fix.On a 01 Quad with 4.7 when I turn on the right turn signal both rear lights flash as if I'd turned on the 4way's. Every now and then all 4 lights flash as well as the dash signals. Also through all this the left brake light does not work :(
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    Just put a wrench on it and start cranking... the "nut end" has a metal "flag" on it that will bump into the nearest obstruction then hold the nut while you are turning the other end. (at least that is how my 2000 Dakota shocks were held on)

    What kind of wrench are you using? (ratchet , box-end.... other)
  • greg2112greg2112 Member Posts: 1
    i changed fuel pump and filter,drove three miles and lost power to coil and fuelpump.no spark to engine, :confuse: :confuse:
  • birdmandavebirdmandave Member Posts: 5
    After the first service trip with the 05, quad, and dealer replacing both left tires, still has a vibration between 40 & 50 mph. This time I was told when they replaced the left tires, they did not match the tread pattern of the right side ( I only saw one Goodyear tire for dakotas). They replaced both right side tires. Sevice guy told me the service mgr, and technician took it for a drive and find no vibration. On the way home, hit between 40-45 mph, and there it was, I can feel the steering wheel vibrate, and you hear a buffetting sound. I really don't want to take it back. I now have 1178 miles on the truck, and starting to look at Tacoma's or something else. Any suggestions before I take drastic measures.

    Txs
    birdmandave
  • 05quad4x405quad4x4 Member Posts: 3
    I too have a vibration problem with an 05 Dakota Quad 4X4. Mine is between 60 - 70 MPH. My first visit to the Dealership I was told it was the Air Pressure in my tires. They set each tire at 35lb and sent me out the door. That didn't fix it.

    I returned, they test drove my truck, admitted that there was a vibration, and agreed to balance all four tires. That didn't fix it.

    I returned again, they test drove my truck, then told me the vibration was normal! I said I had to have a bad tire or wheel, They disagreed and said once again that my vibration was normal. I asked to have the tires replaced and I was told that I would have to go to a goodyear dealer, that was their responsibility! (Poor Customer Service from a Five Star Dealership!)

    After seeing all of the other vibration complaints on this board, I asked the Dealer to have my tires replaced with another brand (believing that I had deffective Goodyears), and the dealer refused.

    I then made a decision to replace the tires with Michelins, and if that solved the problem I was planning on filing a claim in Small Claims Court to re-coup my loss.

    When I had the new tires mounted, I asked the mechanic to keep a close eye on anything that might be the source of my vibration, and he did find it!

    He put the wheel alone (no tire on the wheel) on the tire balance machine, and turned it on. You could visually see that the wheel moved side to side! It wasn't a "true Round" rike a wheel should be. Both of my rear wheels were bad.

    He also commented that when he took the wheel off,that "it it had a lot of weight on it, more that a new wheel should have". The wheel with no tire on it was already calling for 1.00 oz of weight! Of the two front wheels, one required no weight, and the other asked for less than .50 oz of weight.

    The mechanic also commented that he believed that this (aluminum alloy wheel) was a new wheel for Dodge. He had not seen any before.

    What is ironic is that my wife and I test drove another Dakota before we purchased this one. It had a severe vibration! I told the dealership that I believed that the tires needed balanced. If they could balance the tires, we would test drive it again, and if it was ok, we would purchase the truck.

    Well.... they did not balance the tires on that truck for me. Guess what they did? they changed all four tires/rims with another Dakota, then had me take it out again. I asked why they were changing rims instead of balancing the tires? They responded that "it was easier". Needless to say, ot still had a vibration and we walked. This now leads me to believe that they are aware that they have bad wheels. Why else would they replace all four tires/wheels on a new truck, instead of simply balancing they like I asked?

    So... I am convinced that Dodge has "Bad Rims", and based on my experience at the first dealership, I believe that they know they have bad rims.

    I called my dealership and asked to have my rims replaced. They said they would get back to me. Guess what, a week has gone buy, and they never called me back.

    I sent a letter to the President of Dodge explaining my problem and dissapointment, and asking to have this situation resolved. If it isn't, I will purchase four new rims on my own, and go to small claims court to have a third party Judge decide if I deserve a refund for my new wheels.

    By the way, the Presidents Name/Address is:

    Mr. Dieter Zetche
    President/CEO
    Daimler Chrysler Corporation
    PO Box 21-8004
    Auburn Hills, MI 48321-8004

    Based on the number of
    Vibration" complaints on this board alone, I believe it's time for a "class action suit" to get this problem resolved.

    I am going to hang in there and see if I hear back from their corporate office. If not, I will be purchasing four new wheels.

    Good Luck! let us know what you find.

    Thanks to all for sharing their info.
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    It sounds to me that there was probably nothing wrong with the Goodyear's that came with your truck and that the wheel was the problem along.

    Just as an aside, I noticed one day last week on my bicycle ride through my Dodge dealer's lot that five brand new, yet to be sold RAMs had either one or two of their wheels and tires removed with the vehicle sitting on cinder blocks. I did not notice any Dakotas in that condition, though.

    Yes, Dodge has gone to a new manufacturer for some wheels.

    I wonder...?

    Best regards,
    Dusty
  • reddakotareddakota Member Posts: 5
    i hope this helps anyone with the same problem. my compressor would not engage. come to find out that if you take the front of the clutch off you can see some shims. i removed one of them and have been enjoying ice cold a/c ever since! hope this helps! :D
  • moaboveparmoabovepar Member Posts: 11
    Thanks for all your help! It was indeed a split hose that led from the EVAP Canister to the engine compartment. Replaced it and reset the light. So far so good!

    One more thing, the air blows weakly out of the side vents and on low they all blow weak. Could this be the blower resistor as well??

    Thanks again,

    Jody
  • wgateswgates Member Posts: 1
    MY TRUCK CUTOFF WHILE DRIVING DOWN THE HIGHWAY. REPLACED TIMING GEAR AND CHAIN. IT TRIES TO HIT BUT WILL NOT RUN. ANY SUGGESTIONS?
This discussion has been closed.

Helpful Tools

Most popular vehicles