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Dodge Dakota: Problems & Solutions

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Comments

  • rharrisonrharrison Member Posts: 2
    77,000 and 3.9 v6. Any thoughts?
  • ksmith1973ksmith1973 Member Posts: 3
    I am having this same problem on my 1998 extended cab dakota sport with the 3.9l v-6. Did you ever find any information as to the cause of the problem? I am ready to try replacing the power train control module. Any help you can offer would be great.
  • johnc6johnc6 Member Posts: 2
    I have 30600 miles and decided to change the coolant and thermostat. First I was shocked that the thermostat replacement was $36 because you have to change the housing too. Then I crawled under the truck and the petcock is not visible. I looked all over, even pulling the plastic underbody down and it still wasnt visible.
    It looks like you have to pull the front bumper off to get to the petcock....if it`s even there. Does anyone know how to get to the drain without removing the front end ?
  • seventy7seventy7 Member Posts: 11
    see post #2479 (near the bottom) for radiator petcock location.

    Are you sure that you have to change the thermostat housing when you change the thermostat?
  • ksmith1973ksmith1973 Member Posts: 3
    I have a 98 dak that I did heads on this summer. My drain valve was on the driver's side of the radiator with a small rubber hose that wrapped over the valve knob. I had to remove one side of this hose and turn the knob. the coolant drained out of the hose and I believe the design was to prevent leaking out of the drain valve. I hope this helps.
  • johnc6johnc6 Member Posts: 2
    Hey guys, thanks for your responses. After reading Post # 2479 I went out to the garage and removed the plastic shroud under the radiator on the drivers side and I found the petcock. Originally I removed the shroud on the left side and of course it wasnt there. I have a Chiltons Manual and it never mentioned where it would be located. As far as replacing the thermostat housing, I don`t beleive it has to be replaced. The Chiltons book showed the thermostat in the housing as a normal
    installation. I think the guy at Auto Zone was just trying to run my bill up and make a commission.
    Anyway thanks for your help, this is a great website.

    John6 ">
  • ksmith1973ksmith1973 Member Posts: 3
    when i have driven the truck for 20-30 miles or so and am going at highway speed, if i let off the gas the transmission will downshift from overdrive to the next lower gear and the rpm's go up to 3000 or more. the truck sould not downshift at speeds of 60 mph when i let off the gas. has anyone else had this problem ? If so, What was the fix/problem?
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    First, to make sure what we are talking about, I define a "backfire" as the ignition of fuel somewhere in the down stream, or exhaust system of the vehicle.

    Two things are required for backfiring to occur: raw fuel and enough oxygen to allow combustion.

    A few more questions:

    How is the idle speed and quality, both cold and hot?

    How is the engine performance?

    How is the fuel consumption?

    Best regards,
    Dusty
  • mtrialsmmtrialsm Member Posts: 159
    I decided to replace the TPS on my truck, $33.00 and that did the trick!!!
    Cold starts are smooth and idles also very smooth!
    I hope my gas mileage goes back up also!
    61k miles and I'm still happy with my '01 Quad.
    MM
  • normanthegr8normanthegr8 Member Posts: 3
    Thank You All B :shades: etter
  • dodgetrukndodgetrukn Member Posts: 116
    2001 quad: 4yrs and 6 months old. Was idling through local fair, when Rpm's dropped to 3-400. :( Throttling the gas had NO effect. Shut off A/C and radio while friend opened up the hood. 2 seconds later back to normal operation 600rpm.
    Figured I was skirting the new battery issue, but was convinced after Voltage check. Truck running fine with new battery. Just adding that I've read some odd problems with old batterys resulting in some weird problems, but never saw this one. Glad it didn't cut out while on the local or interstate.. :P Ger
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    I have been reading about the woes and tribulations caused by OE (Original Equipment) batterys. I have been expecting the battery in my Dak to start to show signs of age... yet, after 5 Vermont winters, it is still going strong. In Vermont, 5-winters is a long time for any battery to survive.

    My guess is that it will fail suddenly ...perhaps this winter on a -20F morning 8-(
    When it does fail, I will be installing the most powerful battery that will fit in the batterybox.
  • craigm2craigm2 Member Posts: 1
    We took our Dakota in when the Check engine light came on.

    this is what the dealer did:
    1, found on cyclinder mifiring and low compression
    2,.valve no sealing properly check out found low compressionon #1 cylinder remve left cylinder head and inpsect and found value not sealing properly, grind valves on all cylinders on left head. replace head gasket reseal, change oil and filter, install coolant and clear codes and road test.

    The service writer said that we need to have them do a BG treatment and the change the rear axle lubricant.

    Question:
    has anyone had a probleming wanting until the scheduled 36,000 miles on changing the rear axle lubricant? we have 13,000 miles and tow a Trail-lite batam Flyer traveler that weilghts 3,000 when loaded.

    Thanks,
    craigm2 :confuse:
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    The only problems I have heard of is when folks did not use the required SYNTHETIC lube in the rear end when towing. Certainly, changing more frequently does not hurt.

    I changed my rear-end lube in about 20 minutes by sucking out the old then adding fresh lube... all thru the fill-hole. By doing it this way, there is much less possibility of introducing contaminants that could damage the internal-workings of the differential.
  • sunburnsunburn Member Posts: 319
    As previously mentioned, you should use the required 75W-140 synthetic lubricant in the rear differential if towing. Either Redline or Amsoil can be found for around $8/qt. If you use the Dodge synthetic, it is horrendously expensive. When I have provided the fluids, my dealer charges me $35 to change the rear diff fluid.
  • bonkozbonkoz Member Posts: 3
    Well I've had my axles replaced and slowing but surely the vibrations are coming back. This is going to be my third trip in for this. Any one know about NY's lemon law?
  • bookittybookitty Member Posts: 1,303
    Bruce, good move! When the battery engineers from the various suppliers would come to the plant for recommendations for OEM batteries on newly developed models of construction equipment, I would always talk to these guys. Some of them told me, that when buying a battery, to find the physically largest one that will fit into the box and clear the hood. Then, take these an weigh them. The heaviest wins. So I buy batteries with a ruler and a scale. Usually works. Manufacturers like to stay marginal with tires and batteries to save cost.

    Bookitty
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    I think it's three attempts to fix the problem in 12 or 18 months.

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • sunburnsunburn Member Posts: 319
    I'm getting ready to do the 60K tune-up on my 02 QC this weekend and was putting together my parts list. I started looking for a PCV valve, and noticed what appeared to be one connected to the tubing coming from the top rear of each cylinder head. Are these the PCV valves?
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    No. I'm not sure exactly what you might be describing at the moment, but the PCV valve attaches to the side of the oil filler tube just below the oil fill cap.

    Use care when removing the PCV valve. Unlike older engines, they twist in and lock into position. I found you need to remove the vacuum hose that goes to the PCV valve and a number of collateral items in the area in order to gain good access. I remove the air filter box.

    You can see the PCV valve, but there's enough stuff around it and in the area that twisting the valve to remove it is problematic.

    Best regards,
    Dusty
  • barneywolfbarneywolf Member Posts: 1
    I have a 92 with 5.2. Three days ago I was running the defrost on high to get some moisture off the windshield. All of a sudden the fan quit on all speeds. I can hear the compressor switch on if I turn it on but no fan. I checked the fuses on the main fuse panel. Is there somewhere else to check before I take it somewhere or start taking things off. I have got the truck from my dad about two years ago so I have not done much work on it. Any help would be great.
  • corkster1964corkster1964 Member Posts: 2
    While, or just after completing a left turn my truck dies where all the combustion dies. Initially I've remedied this by putting it in neutral and hitting the gas pedal and it revs up. If it completely dies, I have to pull to the side and open the hood. With the hood open I go back to the ignition key and it starts right up. Today, it happened in the turn, out of stoplight intersection and I at first put it in Neutral, but while still in motion, I put it back into Drive and it started right up. It's driving my mechanics, and me, crazy because it's intermittent enough to never be picked up. Computer check reads perfect. Engine is a dream. But something in the ignition line or fuel. Any help greatly appreciated!
  • dodgetrukndodgetrukn Member Posts: 116
    If you have a "carburetor" on that engine, then maybe this may help? I don't know how many miles you have, but old age and a sticky carb float may be a cause..
    I had a 307 nova v8 whereas when I made that left or right turn (don't recall which direction but only happened at that direction) at slow speeds, the carbs' float would stick and fill the carb up with gas, and choke out..I ended up rebuilding the carb and fixed "my" problem..I had about 120000 miles on that orig carb though..Think it was a rochester though..not sure what the '98 dakota has.. (Carb-or fuel injection) I used to floor it also when it started to die and it would come back to life! Sounds very familiar..Good luck! Ger
  • sunburnsunburn Member Posts: 319
    Thanks for the PCV valve info Dusty. The parts I'm describing now appear to be part of the "intake" side of the PCV system. The tubes go from the top of the air filter housing to the top rear of each cylinder head.
  • corkster1964corkster1964 Member Posts: 2
    Thanks for the help. The Dakota is fuel injected so still a unknown problem.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    Those tubes that you describe are the "intake side" of the PCV system. Do not forget that PCV means "Positive Crankcase Ventalation"

    The total flow of air is as follows;
    Thru air filter into the tubes you mention above
    into top of each valvecover
    thru the crankcase
    up the oil-fill-tube
    thru the PCV valve (in the side of the oil-fill-tube)
    thru hose into intake manifold (Where a vacuum is created at Idle)
    into engine to be burned
    out the exhaust.
  • bonkozbonkoz Member Posts: 3
    Well I guess it's off to the dealers again. Slowly but surely the vibrations coming back. This is how it started out last time and the problem just gets worse.
    Axles and drums have already been replaced too.
  • patriotbluepatriotblue Member Posts: 2
    My 2001 dakota quad cab is having a problem on the expressway, the transmission starts hunting gears, then the engines starts to stall , then the MIL comes on but then goes off before I can get to the dealership to have the code read. The dealership tells me they can find nothing wrong. Could it be the battery?
  • markdickinsonmarkdickinson Member Posts: 2
    Has anybody else had trouble with vibrations coming from the rear end of an 05 Dakota?

    I have had a problem since about 1000 miles. The vibration was more intermittent, but has kept getting worse since then (now have 5500 miles). At first, I only felt the vibration when I was braking at about 35 mph. Now I feel it constantly even when driving down the road.

    I took it to the dealer 3 times and this time they told me that a tire failed the road force test. I took it to a Goodyear dealer and he ran the same test and got the same results, but the were well within Goodyear's acceptable range.

    They (the dealer) even rotated the tire, and the supposedly offending tire was put on the front. But when I drive, I still get a horrible vibration from the rear.

    I hear that my truck isnt the only one with this problem. Has anybody else had the same issues? If so, what did you do to correct it?

    Thanks for your help.
    Mark
  • haselhasel Member Posts: 64
    I believe there is a service bulletin covering this problem, something with the rear axles and brake drums,I have a 2005 Q Cab but really have not been bothered with this problem, (3600miles)
  • fmosterfmoster Member Posts: 1
    I came to this site looking for info on "Engine Cooling Fan Noise" and it is obvious this is something many are familiar with. On my 2004 Dakota with 4.7 engine with 5 speed automatic transmission there are two conditions that this happens under:

    1. About 2 of 10 times after startup in the morning when I put it in gear and drive away there is a loud engine roar and the transmission is not fully engaging. I always allow at least one minute of warmup before driving. This only lasts for 10-20 seconds before stopping and all is quiet and well again.

    2. I live in Colorado and when I get above 10,000 feet in elevation the same roaring will suddenly begin and go on until I get below about 9,000 feet. It may last for hours under these conditions. It is very loud and very annoying.

    I told my local dealer about all this and here is what they provided me with from their own Dodge Service website: (https://w05.dealerconnect.chrysler.com/service/mds2002/tsb/enUS/080022dc80bbf413.htm:

    "Some vehicles may exhibit an engine cooling fan "roar" noise. This noise is created by a large cooling fan that is required to provide optimum cooling for low vehicle speed operation in hot weather conditions and for heavy trailer towing. Since the large cooling fan is unnecessary in most operating conditions, these vehicles are also equipped with vicsous cooling fan drives that allow the fan to operate at variable speeds based upon temperature loads. The viscous fan drive will engage the fan for maximum cooling when temperatures are high and allow the fan to operate at slower speeds when temperatures are low. In addition, at engine start-up, the viscous fan drive engages the fan for maximum cooling until the fluid in the viscous clutch can dissipate out of the clutch drive grooves allowing the fan to operate at a slower speed.

    Because of the viscous fan drive, the noise may occur during high temperature conditions and for the first 1-2 minutes of operation. Due to the roar of the fan, customers may also complain of a PERCEIVED loss of power, automatic transmission slippage, or that the transmission is staying into a low gear too long (delayed upshift).

    Customers concerned about this noise should be advised that this conditions is norman and no repair attempts should be made. Policy: Information Only". Dated 07-05-98
    ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------------

    So this describes my problems exactly. What I take issue with is the word "Perceived." The loss of power is NOT perceived, it is real. And I never tow anything. I can't help but think that some engine and/or tranny damage is occurring. At the very least it is incredibly and irritatingly loud and just not right. I'd like it to be fixed on mine even if Dodge/Chrysler doesn't see it as a problem. Any advice or thoughts on this?

    Sorry for the long post. Thanks.
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    Well, sounds like one of those crazy problems that could be caused by the battery. The transmission hunting I don't recall hearing of, at least like your symptoms, but the stalling and intermittent MIL without registering a code is familiar to a punky battery.

    Try a load test on the battery and see what happens. Or, because of the age, maybe a new battery before winter can be justified on its own merits.

    Please get back to us with your results.

    Best regards,
    Dusty
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    Your experience is normal for a newer Dakota. On my 2003 I experience the fan coming on more so in cooler weather and the winter time. It seems that you're losing power but I think its psychological because of the noise. It is possible that the fan maybe sticking in the full engagement mode and causing an actual engine drag. I guess that to determine that you'd have to compare it to a new one.

    By the way, I had mine viscous fan replaced last year. Mine was causing a chirping and belt-type noise. It's been fine since they replaced it.

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    I have been reading about and responding to folks pertinaing to this issue since the 2000 model year. Back then. folks were complaining that their 4.7L engine /tranny was "slipping" when cold. I had a tough time explaining that the roar of the fan was the issue and NOT the transmission.

    Irreguardless what you may think, it really is a "percieved" loss of engine power. The only "loss of power" would be what the fan is soaking from the engine (perhaps less than 1 horsepower) Your ears are hearing that roar and it sounds as if the engine is really cranking out power.... when in reality, it is not any different.

    To allevieate your issue wiht the perception, try this.... Start to watch at the Tachometer as you drive. Get accustomed to what the "normal" RPMs are during driving. Then, the next time it is "roaring" try to ignore the sound and watch the Tach. you will find that the RPMs are completely normal.

    It is also interesting that this "roaring issue" comes up in the spring and the fall. this is because the viscous coupling of the fan does this funky thing right around 40F. If 10 degrees warmer or colder than 40F, the roaring is much less pronounced.

    The only thing about your complaint that I cannot explain is the fact that you can hear this roaring for long periods of time while at high altitudes. Perhaps somone else can relate to that phenomonon.
  • markdickinsonmarkdickinson Member Posts: 2
    Any idea when the bulletin was issued? :lemon:
  • haselhasel Member Posts: 64
    I found the item last week on MSN auto section, it did list a # for the so called fix for the vibration but i did not write it down, sorry.
  • seventy7seventy7 Member Posts: 11
    I have a question regarding using mixed gas in the 4.7 V8. I have about half a tank's worth (30-40 litres) of leftover boat gas that I would like to get rid of instead of storing through the winter. It is mixed at 50:1 with 2-stroke oil for outboard motors (TCW-3). Is it safe to run the 4.7 on this stuff, or would it possibly gum up some internal components, like injectors? It's mixed with the same gas that I have been using all along in the truck. I can dump the whole amount in at once, or add a bit at each new fill-up, if that would make a difference. Someone with engine experience claims that it would be like a "treat" for the engine, but I have my reservations. Any thoughts?
  • sunburnsunburn Member Posts: 319
    I noticed this past weekend that one of the fog lights is cracked on my 02 QC. What do you have to do to replace one? Thanks.
  • 92dakota0692dakota06 Member Posts: 3
    hi everyone i just bought my 92 dakota with the 5.2 318, auto transmission, and it started making this vibration, you can't hear it you can only feel it and i can't figure out what it is! its lost a lot of power and i can't use overdrive anymore without it completly shaking the whole truck. :confuse: it even does this when stopped. i checked all my plugs and theyre all fine.....oil is good and full (low oil pressure though).....has anyone else had this problem? any ideas and help is greatly appreciated! thanks
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    I would recommend against it. It's not so much that having TWC-3 in the fuel would hurt anything, although you might realize some unwanted combustion by-products coating the chamber or valve faces. But there might be some contaminants in that outboard gas can that would prematurely clog the fuel filter.

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    Could be fuel starvation caused by a clogged fuel filter or other fuel system component, or low fuel pressure (fuel pump, filter, pressure regulator, etc.).

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    I would be less woried about the fuel-filter and be more concerned about damaging the 4 oxygen sensors or the catalytic converter. That would be an expensive repair.
  • 92dakota0692dakota06 Member Posts: 3
    thanks, i havent learned everything about my truck yet so this is problably a dumb question but how do i go about checking the fuel pressure and pressure regulator and pump, etc.?
  • powerpusspowerpuss Member Posts: 3
    Just trying to keep voltage regulator output at a needle above 14 on voltmeter gauge because the truck runs better, the windows roll up and down quickly, the wipers move faster just a much better performing truck when the voltage gauge reads a needle above 14.
    The only time I get to experience this lovely increase in performance is when its raining outside??? I know its weird but its true.
    Any clue has to how to fix it so it will perform both when its raining and when its not ?
  • powerpusspowerpuss Member Posts: 3
    I realized my previous message did not mention the make/model of my truck, so I updated title with that info.
    Just trying to keep voltage regulator output at a needle above 14 on voltmeter gauge because the truck runs better, the windows roll up and down quickly, the wipers move faster just a much better performing truck when the voltage gauge reads a needle above 14.
    The only time I get to experience this lovely increase in performance is when its raining outside??? I know its weird but its true.
    Any clue has to how to fix it so it will perform both when its raining and when its not ?
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    I am thinking this is not necessarrly connected with "rain" per se.... but perhaps with somthing electrical you have turned on only when it is raining. (headlights, wipers...ect??)

    If it were my truck, I would pull each and every ground connection, solder the wire to it, file to bare metal underneath and screw it back down. Also, clean the battery and alternator connections. Ground wire to engine/frame is also suspect.

    If you are good with a DVM (Digital Voltmeter), it would be trivial to isolate the problem within a few minutes of probing around looking for voltage drops.
  • 01quadowner01quadowner Member Posts: 4
    Sorry if this is a duplication, but I searched and couldn't find anyone having the exact problem.
    2001 Dakota Quad 4.7L, Auto, 2WD. Been a great truck until a couple of weeks ago. Just before my 90,000 mi. service (only the dealer has ever put a wrench on it), I started to have problems.
    1. When cranking (especially the first of the day), it would idle up real high, then ease back down, then it might go up real high again.
    2. On the road, it started to shift in and out of overdrive (OD) by itself, and also seemed like it was running poorly (fuel-wise).
    Took it in for the 90,000, and they did everything they were supposed to do for the service. After picking it up, it seemed to run alright again. At least the cold crank idling was fixed. Within a couple of days, it began to do the same things again. I called the dealer, and they said bring it back in. Before I could get there, the Check Engine lamp illuminated. Really running horribly by this time.
    When they plugged-in the diagnostic tool, it reported a P0202 code, which they said was "Lost Signal to Fuel Injector Circuit - #2 Cyclinder". They told me it was caused by a faulty PCM, that it was not serviceable, and the only thing they could do was order me a new PCM. Almost $700.00 for the new PCM, another couple of hundered to install and "flash" the new PCM. Now we're talking right at a thousand bucks!
    The dealer also jokingly recommended that I could always trade on a new Dakota. I said "no thanks", so the mechanic "reset" the PCM (erased the memory?), and I came home and started to look around on the internet. I found a place that would refurbish my PCM and return it with a lifetime warranty for around $250.00 (http://www.ecudirect.com/index.asp), so I shipped it off, and in about a week, the refurbished PCM arrived.
    After I installed it, I am still having the problem of the truck continuing to shift in and out of OD. It feels like there is some sort of fuel delivery problem going on. Even if I push the button and turn the OD off, I can still feel the engine surging, and you can watch the tach jump up and back down about 5,000 RPM (almost continuously) at almost all speeds. It's worse when you are climbing a hill, but it does it even on a level highway. It does it worse with Cruise Control on, but also does it without the Cruise.
    The battery is practically brand new. This almost has to be associated with the fuel injection system somehowe, but the Check Engine lamp has not illuminated again since I put the refurbished PCM in. The dealer ensures me that they cleaned and serviced the injector system, as required, at the 90,000 mi. service.
    It will sit and idle almost effortlessly, smooth as silk, but the trouble begins when you start to accelerate.
    OK you experts, any ideas out there? Even the dealer seems to be stumped.
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    Have you tried disconnecting the battery for two minutes to reset the PCM?

    Worth a try at this point. I have an uneasy feeling about this one.

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    The normal regulated voltage would be around 14.0 volts indicated. It sounds as if the charging system is not working properly. The increase in voltage permits high spark voltage.

    You could have a bad connection at the alternator or the PCM (the voltage regulator is in the PCM). Could also be bad brushes or some other defect in the alternator itself. Because of the year I would recommend a complete electrical system health check, including the battery and connections.

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • sunburnsunburn Member Posts: 319
    Maybe it's the throttle position sensor? Seems like I've read about them causing similar problems.
This discussion has been closed.