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Dodge Dakota: Problems & Solutions

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Comments

  • tomupstatenytomupstateny Member Posts: 4
    I own a 2003 quad cab dakota my fan blower will only work on high. I think i need to replace the resistor block can any one tell me were i would find it and is it hard to replace?
  • sunburnsunburn Member Posts: 319
    The resistor block is located in the heater plenum, just to the left of the blower motor, which is underneath the glove compartment. It is held in with two hex head screws. The rearmost one is a little hard to get at. You might have to remove some of the heater duct near the console. Once the screws are out, remove the resistor block and disconnect the electrical harness.
  • julie67002julie67002 Member Posts: 2
    88 dakota 4x4 & need to find out the torque specs for the spindle side nuts
  • fronthomefronthome Member Posts: 1
    My truck evey now and then loses all electrical power
    while driving (scary) and as I try to start it. I had
    it in the shop and they could not find anything wrong.

    Has any one heard of this problem?
  • tomupstatenytomupstateny Member Posts: 4
    Thanks I found it very easy toke five minutes and only was a $12.00 dollars for the part. Now if all problems were that easy to fix we would have it made
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    If you're refering to the nut that holds the hub bearing housing on to the spindle, its 125 ft. lbs.

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • mattymatt76mattymatt76 Member Posts: 1
    Hey, new to the site. New used 2004 Dakota Owner, great truck got 19k miles. Before buying had selling dealer replace knuckle joint( a "common problem") causing noise coming from drivers side. Two months later, after a 200 mile road trip, the front end makes a noise going over medium size bumps in the road and when exiting my driveway. It's not a horrible noise but for what I'm paying and that's it under warranty, plus I'd like it to not make noises for the next 100k that didn't exist when I bought it. Any body have similar noises at low speeds over moderate bumps? Should I tell the dealer to look for something specific and was the initial knuckle issue "common" as I was told. Thanks in advance
  • firemech2firemech2 Member Posts: 1
    might sound weird but check your ignition switch and/or key. easy way to check: with your engine running try shaking your key and see if it stalls. hope its something that simple good luck
  • jnealjneal Member Posts: 247
    Dusty or bpeebles or anyone else knowledgeable about RFI please take a look at post # 3879 and see if you can give me some advice. Used to deal with it on older vehicles but all the electronics in new vehicles tend to scare me....... :cry:
  • ronslakie1ronslakie1 Member Posts: 57
    I had a similar problem one time with a Nissan Stanza and it turned out to be a faulty computer, which was replaced under warranty.

    Ron
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    jneal -- although I am trained in electronics and have many years experience with RFI in the world of computers... I really cannot give you any insight about how the RFI from a ham-radio might affect the Dakota electronics.

    I would expect that if basic RFI precautions were followed (sheild everything) and the antenna was perhaps in the middle of the roof... that may be sufficent. I assume you are not expecting to run a kilowatt amplifier for your antenna ;-)
  • julie67002julie67002 Member Posts: 2
    Thank you very much Dusty. I'm undertorqued by 25 ft lbs.
  • 97_25l_dakota97_25l_dakota Member Posts: 5
    Is there a way to differentiate differential whine from transmission whine? I'm pretty sure it's my transmission doing the whining - but it only seems to occur in the low gears - i.e. 1st, 2nd, and 3rd as I'm in low rpms. Does not seem to be a problem when I'm in 4th or 5th. I know I have plenty of (manual) transmission fluid. I have yet to check my differential fluid, but I'm really doubting it's my differential due to the sound in only a few gears. Sound like a throwout bearing going bad? Any experience with this??? Thanks in advance,
  • dodgebratdodgebrat Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1993 dodge dakota and I have a problem with it. Whenever I turn the key to the on position it will instantly pop the auto shutoff fusable link. I have replaced the computer and the coil on the truck and have narrowed it down to a possible dead short in the wiring. Any help would be greatly appreciated!
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    A throwout bearing ONLY is used when clutch is depressed. At all other times...it is just sitting there not even spinning. (NEVER sit at a stoplight with clutch depressed... sure way to wear out throwout bearing)

    With that said, most differential whine scenarios will change volume depending on "accelleration" or "decellation"....but so can some xmission whine. Oftentimes it is not easy to isolate the source of a gear whine (xmission -or- differential gears)

    Perhaps if we had more info;
    Which tranny do you have? (based on engine selection)
    How many miles on truck?
    Do you have center-bearing on rear-axle
    2 -or- 4 wheel drive?
    10 -ro- 12 bolt rear end. (count bolts on rear differential...this equates to 8.5 or 9.5 inch ring gear)
  • jnealjneal Member Posts: 247
    Thanks for the reply. Last I ran mobile rigs it was more a case of the vehicle causing interference with the radio but now I am more concerned about causing damage to the vehicle!
    Planning to run hf mobile @ 100 watts and antenna either bed or rear bumper mounted.
    Can't seem to get any info from DC on it so guess I may go ahead and install and run low power at 25 watts or so until I see what may happen.
    Thanks again for your insight
    jneal
  • planes48planes48 Member Posts: 1
    Friday after work, my 2002 Dakota did a "burbling" sound after starting it, for a few seconds, then the engine ran normal. Again this morning, and once during one of my many stops today. After the last time, the CEL came on, remains on. I suspect a sensor somewhere, will check for a code reader tomorrow. Any suggestions to speed me along?
    Thanks,
    Planes
  • lostangllostangl Member Posts: 1
    Hi everyone,
    I am new to this forum, but hope that someone has an answer for me. I bought my truck in Aug 05 and when it had about 400 miles on it, I went to start it up and the horn went off, the wipers and washer came on, the dome and cargo light came on, and the beeper that lets you know that you left your key in came on. I also had no lights or turn signals. I could only stop all this if I disconnected the battery. I took it to a dealer here in town and they replaced the front module. Worked fine for a couple of weeks, then it started all over again. I have had it in the shop for a total of 10 times, two different dealers. The second one found a short in the horn and we thought that it was fixed, but again, after about 2 weeks, same thing. Took it back and this time, they said the factory was aware of the problem and was working on a new module. Guess my question is, is anyone else having these types of problems? There is no alarm on the truck.
    Thanks for any help, info you can provide.
  • vincent5vincent5 Member Posts: 1
    Hi, have an 03 Dakota 2wheel dr. 19,500 miles. Noise started in front end a few months ago. Turn steering wheel left or right and a "clacking" noise up front, can feel it through the wheel. Took it in, had it serviced. Replaced ball joints. Still makes noise. Any ideas?

    Thanks.
  • drum2drum2 Member Posts: 3
    I have a 2002 would not start today and last night. pushed it the garage this morning it started. temp in chicago about 25. this has been going on for three years. been to the dealer 20 times. always the same story from them it has to not start for them. but it has and they still cant fix this junk. i WILL NEVER EVER EVER BUY A DODGE AGAIN. i could tell you more problems i had but i have to walk home because it wont start now. drum 2
  • spanman98366spanman98366 Member Posts: 3
    I have a 2005 Dakota SLT Club, v-8, Automatic, 4X4. Had problems with rear brake vibration. Dealer replaced rear axels and drums. Didn't cure braking problem but after replacing rear brakes, cured that problem. But, at the time of axel replacement and drums, vehicle developed a vibration from the right rear. Dealer load balanced tires and found them out of tolarance. Bought new tires and now the tires pass the load balance test. Still have vibration, no change. Dealer replaced rear drums, not change in vibration. I jacked up rear of vehicle and removed rear tires and drums started truck up and spun it up to 80mph and there is no vibration. At this point I put both drums back on, only. Ran the truck up to 35 mph and the vibrations started and at 60 mph was unbearable. At this time I removed the right rear drum and kept the left rear drum still on the vehicle. Still had the same vibration when reved up vehicle. Then removed the left rear drum and put the right rear back on and again the vibration was still there. NO TIRES INVOLVED... Dealer made same test and concluded the same information so they replaced the rear drums again but the vibration is still there. They are ordering new axels and that should be installed in two weeks. Dodge is keeping their collective heads in the sand. So from a vehicle that didn't vibrate to one that is vibrating horroribly by changing the axels and drums.
  • oldtimer4oldtimer4 Member Posts: 23
    Mine is a 2nd owner 2003 Dakota 5-speed, 2 wheel drive, 3.9L V6 w/Carfax verified 35,000 miles. On my 1st drive each day I have no power in 1st & 2nd for the 1st 1/4 to 1/2 mile, but everything seems fine after that and during subsequent startups. Also, the gas mileage isn't quite up to what I'd expect even on highway miles. The clutch fluid level is fine, but it definitely feels like the clutch or transmission is slipping in 1st & 2nd during that 1st drive each day.

    Does anyone have a clue?
  • rippeyimrippeyim Member Posts: 1
    spanman
    I have the same truck 05 dodge dakota slt quad cab v8. I am having the same problems, the dealer has been telling me that they fix the problem but they dont. I have about 8,000 mile and they replaced rear axle, front pads, rotors and tires/rims. My vibrations start at 40 and go away but over 80 its back. When I hit the brakes all hell breaks loose and the car is shaking out of control. I took it back for the 5 time and now they had a head tech from somewhere drive the car and agree that there is something wrong.( took 3 days ) Good so far, at least he can admit that. He says it could be stuck calipers and warped the rotors. OK I can buy that, but why has it been three weeks and the parts to fix it are not in yet?? I have talked to the owner of the dealer and explained to him my problem, he says if this does not fix it he will consider it lemon and hook me up with A new one.. I suggest you do the same whats going to go wrong when the car is out of warranty?? my pos saturn drove better and was paid for now I am paying for a vibrating truck. Also I have been getting 12 to 14 mpg on the highway at 55. I have been riding with sticky calipers and constantly braking when i dont want to i hope this truck turns around and becomes normal before i drive it into a tree and finnish it.
  • comaroman06comaroman06 Member Posts: 2
    can anyone help me???????? i have a 1998 dakota 5 speed and i need to remove only the shifter knob not the whole shaft! please help ASAP
  • chief12chief12 Member Posts: 5
    The top, or cap on the knob come off to reveal the nut that holds the knob to the shaft. Peel it carefully.
  • amend1amend1 Member Posts: 98
    I don't remember who posted the complaint about the engine surging, especially with the cruise control on. My 2000 4.7L Dakota was also doing this and it was very annoying. The dealer was useless. I began to discover that the throttle was very sensitive and the trans seemed to be hunting. I took the throttle position sensor off the throttle body and worked it (read turned) a couple of times by hand. I put it back on and the problem has gone away. I guess the windings inside the sensor may get dirty or the connection at the plug becomes compromised. I'll keep an eye on it and R&R the TPS if necessary, 44 bucks at Carquest.
    Bill
  • nutman1nutman1 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2001 dakota 4.7 w/52,000 miles. The rear end is whining upon acceleration, cruising and deceleration. Have a 12 bolt rear end. I don't know if it is limited slip or not. Anyone know how to tell if it LS or not. I changed rear end fluid through siphon. Shop told me to use trans fluid. Didn't help. I was going to take cover off and clean out myself. Any recommends/experience with different fluid?
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    Dont use automatic xmission fluid in a differential!

    The "standard test" (right from DC factory service manual) to see if you have LSD (Limited Slip Differential) is to jack up rear of truck so both wheels are off the ground. With your hand, spin one of the wheels and watch what direction the OTHER wheel turns.
    SAME DIRECTION = LSD
    OPPOSITE DIRECTION = NO LSD
  • mnallmnall Member Posts: 8
    Ive had my 05 SLT 4x4 for about 2 months, and it has vibrated the whole time. The dealer has rotated and balanced the tires twice and it hasnt helped. Im sure they are going to start hanging parts in hopes of fixing it, but I dont think that is the solution. The service tech at my dealer told me "all Dakotas do it" .....So Im pushing for the Lemon :lemon: deal as well. I wont ever own another Dodge
  • independentjlgindependentjlg Member Posts: 8
    I have a 1997 Dodge Dakota V8 and I am having starting problems when my truck is cold I changed my distributor cap,plugs,wires,ignition coil,pcv valve,checked the fuel pressure and I still have starting problems. Any advice would be appreciated.
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    Assuming you've used good quality ignition parts, my first suspect is a dirty idle air control pintle or an inoperative Idle Air Control (IAC) Motor. If the throttlebody has never been cleaned this is a good first choice.

    Another good suspect is a dirty or defective Throttle Position Sensor. this is mounted on the left side of the throttlebody just above the IAC Motor.

    Best regards,
    Dusty
  • spanman98366spanman98366 Member Posts: 3
    I lowered the tire pressure and this did seem to help some of the vibration while driving, but not all of it. Still feel the problem is in the axels and drums. Good luck on the :lemon: .
  • ranger21ranger21 Member Posts: 2
    Have had the same problem with a 2005 V-8 Quad. Shook violently when braking, especially downhill and/or over 40MPH. They replaced rear axles/drums. Better now but also have problem with drifting to the right. Tires rotated and balanced and alignment done but still notice problem, though not as bad. Going back next week. Only 7900 miles. Disappointed with my first Dodge so far.

    Service Bulletin 05-004-05 REV. A
    Group: Brakes
    Date: November 8, 2005
  • dickb1dickb1 Member Posts: 1
    I also have a 2005 Dodge Dakota Quad Cab. I do not have the violent shaking that you other people are experiencing.
    what I am having is some sort of vibration, a feeling like you are driving over a series of very small pumps. This happens at almost all speeds, but isn't always the same in intensity. The dealer adjusted weights and tire pressure,and re-balanced tires. I also had lots of trouble with the check engine light. Since they replaced and adjusted a sensor in the rear end, that problem has gone away. The service manager's last statement to me was that they feel that because I have the tow package, with heavy suspension,etc., it is just normal for the vehicle.
    My question to him was, Why wasn't noticable by me until I
    got around 8,000 miles on the truck. The mechanic that works on the truck said to keep an eye on it and he will watch Dodge bulletins. I real like the truck except for this.
  • jnealjneal Member Posts: 247
    I have 06 QC w/tow pkg and hd suspension. I have to say that the Goodyear Eagle tires do seem to ride a bit harsh. Not trying to defend the dealer but it may be that you didn't notice the harshness until they started jacking around with the tire pressure. The sticker calls for 35 psi in the tires so perhaps if you dropped back to abt 32 the ride would improve. I haven't tried this however. I haven't had any of the vibration problems that some with 05's have reported but only have 1800 miles at present.
  • steve528steve528 Member Posts: 3
    My 2005 Dakota has a rattle noise in the front dash on passenger side. Sounds similar to a loose screw vibrating, wobbling, snapping sound. Dealer checked outside plastic molding on bottom windshield outside on passenger side. Checked wiper blades, not the problem. Then dealer thinks it is in the windshield. They have a windshield company remove windshield and reseal it. That helped some to reduce noise, but still there off and on. Can hear it with radio on and driving 30 to 40 MPH. Gets irritating to hear this. It starts and stops on a whim or bump, not a constant rattle. Anyone else have this or a fix? Dealer asked Dodge Tech support they say they don't know any other Dakotas doing this. Dealer has had truck in their shop for 10 or 11 days total in 4 different visits.
  • sunburnsunburn Member Posts: 319
    Over the past few weeks I've noticed what sounds like an intermittent ignition noise coming through the radio on my 4.7L. I varies with engine RPM and goes away when the engine is turned off. With coil on plug ignition on the 4.7L, there aren't any plug wires to replace, so I'm at a loss where to start looking. I suppose it could be a bad plug (just replaced 3K miles ago) or coil module. Anyone have any thoughts? Thanks.
  • jnealjneal Member Posts: 247
    I would suspect, as you do, either a coil or a plug but also would look for a bad engine-frame ground. Did you use dielectric grease on the plug boots when you installed the plugs?
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    Are you hearing a "crackling" sound or more of a "whining" that increases with engine RPM?

    A "whining" sound is the ALTERNATOR... not ignition.

    In any case, I would recommend that you pull off each ground lug one at a time and file down to bare metal below each one. (I even soldered the wires to the lugs just to make sure corrosion would not get in the crimps.)
  • gsmith2gsmith2 Member Posts: 1
    I purchased a 1995 Dakota extended cab truck third owner
    since bought new. after two months of daily driving I heard
    a clicking noise coming from engine,but the noise did not
    sound deep into engine.so I tore down front of engine to
    timing chain found that the upper bolt in cam shaft which,
    holds upper timimg pulley on shaft was loose.I replaced both upper and lower timing pulleys.Also replaced tensioner
    also.put back together and drove for two more months without any trouble. I traded it to a friend of mine for
    a full size chevy Z71.To cut to the chase since my friend
    has had the truck this problem has happened twice.The last time I tore down the truck for the third time,I replaced the bolt rethreaded shaft and used red thread locker and
    also used a lock washer.Problem is still happening seems
    as if it wont go away.If any one has had simular problems
    please HELP!!! I do not wish to end my friendship with this guy over a truck I offered to trade back but he wont
    have it.Down and out!!
  • sunburnsunburn Member Posts: 319
    Yes, I have used dielectric grease on the coil boots. Also, the noise is a crackling sound, not a whining sound. When the weather warms up again, I'll check the engine grounds. It is an intermittent sound. This morning, it didn't do it. Also, when it does do it, it sounds aperiodic. So, it doesn't appear to happen everytime a particular coil/plug fires.
  • jnealjneal Member Posts: 247
    I'm assuming from your previous post that you hadn't noticed this noise before you changed the plugs. What is the mileage on your truck?
    I agree with bpeebles about the grounding system but could still be a coil or plug, most likely a coil if that is where the problem is. A coil, if arcing intermittently, wouldn't be noticable as a dead miss in one cylinder would. Look at the engine running after dark and see if you can see any arcing. Also pull the plugs and examine them carefully and see if you see any evidence one of them is misfiring.
  • airborne82airborne82 Member Posts: 3
    I have the same problem and Bro, I don't know about you but, I didn't pay for a new vehicle that shakes and wobbles! I am EXTREMELY P.O'ed.!!! I am being told that I can claim the Lemon Law which I am strongly considering unless, thay come up with a solution. The bad thing is that they have to log a certain number of complaints before they will do something about it!
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    After re-reading your posts, I am thinking that one of your coils may be arcing around the base near the sparkplug.

    Also, perhaps the shape of the insulators on your new sparkplugs is not "sealing well" on the ends of the coils.

    Pull each of the coils off and look for carbon-traces. Perhaps even hand-fit one of the sparkplugs to a coil to see how well the seal fits.

    Thoroughly wipe clean the plug insulators and coils with IPA (IsoPropal Alchoal) incase there is some kind of conductive coating you cannot see.
  • jnealjneal Member Posts: 247
    Bpeebles, I haven't had any experience with this type of ignition system until I bought 06 Dak. Perhaps I am still stuck in the old days but don't really like the coil on plug system.
    Has there been much of an issue with arcing/misifring etc?
    Haven't noticed many problems posted on the forums but really curious about the system.
    What has been your experience with this type ignition?

    DustyK, You can weigh in on this question also.
  • mikeb9mikeb9 Member Posts: 2
    I now have 2 of my 4 power windows on my quad cab quit. It turns out there is a little plastic piece that has broken. The dealer says that I need the entire window regulator assembly at over $300 each. Any suggestions on alternatives.

    I've heard of this problem before from my mechanic and I really don't want to go to a wrecker when I'm not sure of how much life will be left in the part.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    I have been following the 4.7L engine since it was first introduced on the 1999 Jeep Grand Cherokee. I have a 2000 Dak that is the very first year the Dak had the 4.7L.

    The COP (Coil On Plug) system on the 4.7L has been VERY reliable. Yours is the very first time I have heard of any issues at all. (And I am still not convinced that yours is an issue with COP system)

    This technology is another step in the evilution of the ignition system. (I used to change points and condensers!!)
    The COP system eliminates another weear-item from the ignition system (High-voltage ignition wires). It also allows the onboard computer to INDIVIDUALLY CONTROL the spark timing of each cylinder. Sparkplugs last about 50,000 miles too.

    You may not realize that the 3.7L v6 is just the 4.7L with 2 cylinders lopped off. This means that the same design of COP is used across the DC (Damlier Chrysler) line of automobiles.

    Most other automakers also use a COP ignition system.

    =============
    Your concerns remind me of a guy I knew that purchased a "special edition" Chevy Camaro back in the 80s with fuel-injection (before fuel-injection was widely used) Although he had no problems with it, he stripped off all the fuel-injection and installed a carberator..... about 5,000 miles later, the engine siezed up! (He had it tuned too lean)

    If you look back further in automotive history, People were also skeptical of electric starters, automatic chokes and many other technologal changes. (Yes, I know people that replaced automatic chokes with a manual one...but I was not around when electric starters were introduced)
  • jnealjneal Member Posts: 247
    Thanks for the reply,bpeebles. Perhaps I should have phrased my concerns a bit differently than saying I don't like the COP system. More like being skeptical of things that you have had no experience with.

    I see where this system would be better than previous ignition systems, especially since I too came up in the points/condenser days.

    I knew I had seen very few problems on any of the forums dealing with this system so was looking for your input as I know you are very knowledgeable about automotive technology.

    Thanks for the reply,
  • bookittybookitty Member Posts: 1,303
    Bruce, and how about drivers who haven't as yet accepted automatic transmissions?

    Bookitty
  • jnealjneal Member Posts: 247
    Now,Now, Bookitty...I got over the manual transmission bit in my 30's when I got lazy!! :P (Right after I got a government job!
This discussion has been closed.