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Dodge Dakota: Problems & Solutions
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Comments
while driving (scary) and as I try to start it. I had
it in the shop and they could not find anything wrong.
Has any one heard of this problem?
Regards,
Dusty
Ron
I would expect that if basic RFI precautions were followed (sheild everything) and the antenna was perhaps in the middle of the roof... that may be sufficent. I assume you are not expecting to run a kilowatt amplifier for your antenna ;-)
With that said, most differential whine scenarios will change volume depending on "accelleration" or "decellation"....but so can some xmission whine. Oftentimes it is not easy to isolate the source of a gear whine (xmission -or- differential gears)
Perhaps if we had more info;
Which tranny do you have? (based on engine selection)
How many miles on truck?
Do you have center-bearing on rear-axle
2 -or- 4 wheel drive?
10 -ro- 12 bolt rear end. (count bolts on rear differential...this equates to 8.5 or 9.5 inch ring gear)
Planning to run hf mobile @ 100 watts and antenna either bed or rear bumper mounted.
Can't seem to get any info from DC on it so guess I may go ahead and install and run low power at 25 watts or so until I see what may happen.
Thanks again for your insight
jneal
Thanks,
Planes
I am new to this forum, but hope that someone has an answer for me. I bought my truck in Aug 05 and when it had about 400 miles on it, I went to start it up and the horn went off, the wipers and washer came on, the dome and cargo light came on, and the beeper that lets you know that you left your key in came on. I also had no lights or turn signals. I could only stop all this if I disconnected the battery. I took it to a dealer here in town and they replaced the front module. Worked fine for a couple of weeks, then it started all over again. I have had it in the shop for a total of 10 times, two different dealers. The second one found a short in the horn and we thought that it was fixed, but again, after about 2 weeks, same thing. Took it back and this time, they said the factory was aware of the problem and was working on a new module. Guess my question is, is anyone else having these types of problems? There is no alarm on the truck.
Thanks for any help, info you can provide.
Thanks.
Does anyone have a clue?
I have the same truck 05 dodge dakota slt quad cab v8. I am having the same problems, the dealer has been telling me that they fix the problem but they dont. I have about 8,000 mile and they replaced rear axle, front pads, rotors and tires/rims. My vibrations start at 40 and go away but over 80 its back. When I hit the brakes all hell breaks loose and the car is shaking out of control. I took it back for the 5 time and now they had a head tech from somewhere drive the car and agree that there is something wrong.( took 3 days ) Good so far, at least he can admit that. He says it could be stuck calipers and warped the rotors. OK I can buy that, but why has it been three weeks and the parts to fix it are not in yet?? I have talked to the owner of the dealer and explained to him my problem, he says if this does not fix it he will consider it lemon and hook me up with A new one.. I suggest you do the same whats going to go wrong when the car is out of warranty?? my pos saturn drove better and was paid for now I am paying for a vibrating truck. Also I have been getting 12 to 14 mpg on the highway at 55. I have been riding with sticky calipers and constantly braking when i dont want to i hope this truck turns around and becomes normal before i drive it into a tree and finnish it.
Bill
The "standard test" (right from DC factory service manual) to see if you have LSD (Limited Slip Differential) is to jack up rear of truck so both wheels are off the ground. With your hand, spin one of the wheels and watch what direction the OTHER wheel turns.
SAME DIRECTION = LSD
OPPOSITE DIRECTION = NO LSD
Another good suspect is a dirty or defective Throttle Position Sensor. this is mounted on the left side of the throttlebody just above the IAC Motor.
Best regards,
Dusty
Service Bulletin 05-004-05 REV. A
Group: Brakes
Date: November 8, 2005
what I am having is some sort of vibration, a feeling like you are driving over a series of very small pumps. This happens at almost all speeds, but isn't always the same in intensity. The dealer adjusted weights and tire pressure,and re-balanced tires. I also had lots of trouble with the check engine light. Since they replaced and adjusted a sensor in the rear end, that problem has gone away. The service manager's last statement to me was that they feel that because I have the tow package, with heavy suspension,etc., it is just normal for the vehicle.
My question to him was, Why wasn't noticable by me until I
got around 8,000 miles on the truck. The mechanic that works on the truck said to keep an eye on it and he will watch Dodge bulletins. I real like the truck except for this.
A "whining" sound is the ALTERNATOR... not ignition.
In any case, I would recommend that you pull off each ground lug one at a time and file down to bare metal below each one. (I even soldered the wires to the lugs just to make sure corrosion would not get in the crimps.)
since bought new. after two months of daily driving I heard
a clicking noise coming from engine,but the noise did not
sound deep into engine.so I tore down front of engine to
timing chain found that the upper bolt in cam shaft which,
holds upper timimg pulley on shaft was loose.I replaced both upper and lower timing pulleys.Also replaced tensioner
also.put back together and drove for two more months without any trouble. I traded it to a friend of mine for
a full size chevy Z71.To cut to the chase since my friend
has had the truck this problem has happened twice.The last time I tore down the truck for the third time,I replaced the bolt rethreaded shaft and used red thread locker and
also used a lock washer.Problem is still happening seems
as if it wont go away.If any one has had simular problems
please HELP!!! I do not wish to end my friendship with this guy over a truck I offered to trade back but he wont
have it.Down and out!!
I agree with bpeebles about the grounding system but could still be a coil or plug, most likely a coil if that is where the problem is. A coil, if arcing intermittently, wouldn't be noticable as a dead miss in one cylinder would. Look at the engine running after dark and see if you can see any arcing. Also pull the plugs and examine them carefully and see if you see any evidence one of them is misfiring.
Also, perhaps the shape of the insulators on your new sparkplugs is not "sealing well" on the ends of the coils.
Pull each of the coils off and look for carbon-traces. Perhaps even hand-fit one of the sparkplugs to a coil to see how well the seal fits.
Thoroughly wipe clean the plug insulators and coils with IPA (IsoPropal Alchoal) incase there is some kind of conductive coating you cannot see.
Has there been much of an issue with arcing/misifring etc?
Haven't noticed many problems posted on the forums but really curious about the system.
What has been your experience with this type ignition?
DustyK, You can weigh in on this question also.
I've heard of this problem before from my mechanic and I really don't want to go to a wrecker when I'm not sure of how much life will be left in the part.
The COP (Coil On Plug) system on the 4.7L has been VERY reliable. Yours is the very first time I have heard of any issues at all. (And I am still not convinced that yours is an issue with COP system)
This technology is another step in the evilution of the ignition system. (I used to change points and condensers!!)
The COP system eliminates another weear-item from the ignition system (High-voltage ignition wires). It also allows the onboard computer to INDIVIDUALLY CONTROL the spark timing of each cylinder. Sparkplugs last about 50,000 miles too.
You may not realize that the 3.7L v6 is just the 4.7L with 2 cylinders lopped off. This means that the same design of COP is used across the DC (Damlier Chrysler) line of automobiles.
Most other automakers also use a COP ignition system.
=============
Your concerns remind me of a guy I knew that purchased a "special edition" Chevy Camaro back in the 80s with fuel-injection (before fuel-injection was widely used) Although he had no problems with it, he stripped off all the fuel-injection and installed a carberator..... about 5,000 miles later, the engine siezed up! (He had it tuned too lean)
If you look back further in automotive history, People were also skeptical of electric starters, automatic chokes and many other technologal changes. (Yes, I know people that replaced automatic chokes with a manual one...but I was not around when electric starters were introduced)
I see where this system would be better than previous ignition systems, especially since I too came up in the points/condenser days.
I knew I had seen very few problems on any of the forums dealing with this system so was looking for your input as I know you are very knowledgeable about automotive technology.
Thanks for the reply,
Bookitty