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Dodge Dakota: Problems & Solutions

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Comments

  • jimreynjimreyn Member Posts: 1
    1993 Dakota LE 3.9 Liter V6, Multi pt. injection, Single Board Engine Controller (SBEC ll). Auto trans. 4 whl drive, all the bells & whistles.Vehicle occassionally refuses to start& engine often dies when underway. At these occurances there is no power to the ignition coil and the check engine light does not come on. Most of the time the light will appear and the engine will run if the SBEC is given a couple of raps with my fist. Otherwise, an interval must elapse before I get the light and susequent start. I have installed new plugs,iignition wires, ignition coil, & complete ignition key switch. I have also replaced the SBEC ll with a "remanufactured" one (this was before I got myself a manual). I have cleaned both the 60 pin plug & socket with electronic cleaner several times. The battery is 20 mnth's old. I have gone through the wiring for loose conn.s, broker under the insulation, etc. as far as I could. I have bench checked the relays. I have tested signals to & from the SBEC to the extent of my abilities. The critical signals, battery power, signal & power grounds, 5 & 8 volt outputs,ignition key switch input, sensor returns, neutral sw.,shutdown relay, etc., seem in working order. Onvce, when it stalled on me, a man who owns an auto repair stopped by to help. He had a hand held diagnostic devive that he plugged in. In doing so the check engine light came on & the thing started right up. He plugged the VIN No. into his device which I don't think applies to 1993 models. I finally got a Haynes manual with alist of fault codes given by the SBEC> It continually signals 1 flash pause 2 flashes the a pair of 5 flashes which is supposed to mean "memory stanby power lost" and "end of code output". It never does give the 8 flash "start of test code" listed in the manual. The manual states the codes as being for an "SMEC" & calls it that in wiring diagrams for 4 cyl fuel inject models. Dia.s for the 6 cyl. idenifya "Power Trian Module" (PCM ll). I assume the codes are same forSMEC, PCM ll, SBEC ll, whatever. I suspect that the remanufacturer of the devices bench checks them and if they happen to check out at that time they paint & rebox for resale. In view of what the SBEC is saying could these devices have an internal battery, similar to that in personnel computers, with a limited life time. Sorry about being so wordy. I have been fighting tis for a year now. Any comments would be welcome.
  • blasieblasie Member Posts: 13
    Try a dry powder cleaner like "capture" it got the coffee stain out of my living room carpet.
  • blasieblasie Member Posts: 13
    I bought my 03 Dak. Quad used with a Flowmaster in place of the OE muffler, it sound beautiful I get loads of compliments and the question....Does that thaing have a HEMI?? I don't seem to get any better MPG than any other 4x4 quad, don't know if it helped my performance but it sure runs good!
  • kelly_dakotakelly_dakota Member Posts: 3
    Hello, I have read multiple posts on these forums about the roaring noise and while it seems everyone is talking about the same noise I am hearing, I am having a hard time understanding why my truck is doing it.

    I have a 1999 Dodge Dakota 2wd V6 with approximately 115,000 miles on it. Just this past winter and spring my truck would make the roaring sound maybe a couple times a week first thing in the morning and last 2-4 minutes. While I had my truck in for a full tune-up I complained about this noise and they replaced the fan which they said had rusted out. Now I hear this noise every single time I start my truck, whether it is the morning, after work, or after being off for only a short errand. It lasts a shorter period of time usually only a couple of blocks or a minute or less.

    I have read the posts that state that this is just a normal thing, which I would be fine with if it had always done this or it was only doing it in the temperature ranges people have discussed. However, this has only been happening about 6 months and the every single time I start roaring has only been happening about 3 weeks. I live in Central Ohio where the temp has been anywhere from 70-90 lately.

    Any insight or suggestions that anyone could provide would be quite helpful.

    Thanks, Kelly
  • sunburnsunburn Member Posts: 319
    I would venture that the fan clutch has gone bad. When the engine isn't running, can you spin the fan? It should be pretty easy to spin. I get the roaring sound every now and then after starting up. But, probably no more than 1-2 times per month.
  • teverettsteveretts Member Posts: 1
    I bought a 1992 Dakota that did the same thing the day after I got it. After the dealer replaced the coil and speed sensor it still did the same thing. It turned out that the screw that connected the ground wire for the fuel pump was loose where it connected to the body. Once it was tightened up I had no more problems. It is located under the hood on the driver;s side near the hinge.
  • jnealjneal Member Posts: 247
    Dust, a little help if you please. 06 Dak 4.7 545RFE transmission. Nephew drove truck, it was fully warmed up. When nephew came out of store and shifted to reverse truck wouldnt move. Wouldnt move in reverse or drive and set check light. By increasing rpm fairly high and holding tranny would suddenly engage and smoke the tires. Did this twice then started working properly. Nephew drove truck on home but was a week or so before I could check codes. Had codes of P0700 and P0841 with another P0700 pending. Warning lights went out as soon as I turned the key so suppose enough drive cycles had been completed.

    Question is: Do you think the line pressure switch would be at fault or somewhere else in circuit. Intermittent electrical connection? I'm about out of ideas. Havent taken it to dealer yet, would like to have some idea if possible before I start trying to deal with some mechanic that may not be too sharp.
    Truck also has set up a lot....I bought it last October and at time of the problem had 3800 miles on it so guess that is a possibilty also.

    Thanks for any advice.

    Jerry
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    Jerry,

    Hmmm. This condition could be caused by a number of things, including a blown IOD fuse, failed Throttle Position Sensor, electrical wiring problem, failed TCM or a TCM that's lost memory.

    The P0700 is a "Transmission Control System Malfunction." I don't list a P0841. Are you sure of the code? Anyway, the P0700 tends to make me believe you've got a TCM problem.

    Since this is an '06 and within warranty I would strongly recommend that you take this to a dealer.

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • cheetobanditocheetobandito Member Posts: 5
    Where to start?...about a week or so ago I was getting a check engine lite. It came and went. I borrowed a scanner from autozone and pulled p1391 out. That dissapeared too. Then the truck started shutting off while driving it; but would start back up. Yesterday it did the same thing only this time it wouldn't start and "no bus" was in the display. Ive had the truck into Goodyear service center 3 times allready and they can't find the problem...oh yeah, truck started right up for them. Has 260,000 plus miles on it. Time for some new wheels I think. Any body have a clue on what "no bus" is ? :cry:
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    "No Bus" means that the instrument panel cluster is not receiving PCI data from the PCM. This could be a bad connection between the PCM and the cluster or an open fuse on the instrument panel (some years only).

    The P1391 is Intermittent Loss of CMP or CKP. This is further evidence of a potentially intermittewnt connection between the PCM and the vehicle.

    I'd advise going to a Dodge dealer where the familiarity and experience might expedite this repair.

    Best regards,
    Dusty
  • cheetobanditocheetobandito Member Posts: 5
    Thanks Dusty....pretty much what I was thinking....since the truck is running....for now. Might also have something to do with the loud buzz in the am band on the radio....goes up and down in pitch with engine rpm... and the low voltage output on the battery gage. Goodyear says the alternator is ok. The fan blower in the dash also seems affected by this problem...runs when it wants to. Every now and then...alltho not to often now... the buzz will stop and the battery gage will climb up to 14 volts; the buzz starts back up and the gage drops. Taking it to another shop gaureentees they can find the problem....I'll post the "cure" when I know. :(
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    Have you checked the battery condition? Weak and near death batteries in a Dak can do some very strange things. The buzz in the radio is a symptom I've heard of at least once that was caused by a near death battery.

    Yes, please post the solution.

    Bests,
    Dusty
  • me2butch4ume2butch4u Member Posts: 17
    I am posting this again in the event that my last post is lost in the archives and not getting viewed very often. I have a 2000 Dakota with 87,000 miles. V6 / auto / 4x4. It goes through fits where it bucks and backfires up through the throttle body. It does this when taking off mostly, but lately I have noticed that it is backfiring at cruising speed on the highway. When driving it has no power at all to accelerate when at cruising speed. Even when it is not having a fit, it is severely under-powered. It has no get up and go. I have changed the battery, complete tune-up, engine temp sensor replaced, had fuel system checked. Mechanic can't pull any codes from it. If it were an old Chevy, I would say that it was a timing issue because it acts just like a Chevy when the timing is off. My mechanic has told me that he has had 3 Dakotas in the past month in for the same problem and he is pulling his hair out too. I NEED HELP WITH THIS ONE AND I WOULD APPRECIATE ANY SUGGESTIONS. :confuse:
    Thanks
    Deb
  • jnealjneal Member Posts: 247
    Thanks for prompt reply dusty. I show 0700 as Line pressure circuit malfunction and 0841 as line pressure switch malfunction.
    Since it just happened the one time and seemingly cleared itself I'm thinking perhaps just a momentary bad connection on the switch. Do you think it's possible that it just stems from the fact that the truck has been run so little lately and maybe a solenoid stuck for a few seconds ?
    I know I'm asking the impossible here but I value your opinion and before I go to the dealer I want to be prepared.
  • deminindeminin Member Posts: 214
    The door speakers on my '97 have been in the tank for the past few weeks. The surrounds on the factory Infinity speakers had seperated from the frame, and had an awful rattling sound at anything over 10% volume.
    This morning I replaced them with Pioneer TS-A1681R speakers. WHAT A DIFFERENCE! This is the best that radio has every sounded!
    Dodge wants well over $100 a speaker for the originals, but I got this pair of Pioneers, brand new, from a seller on EBAY for $56 delivered. I also had to buy a set of adapters, also from EBAY, for $10, because the OEM Infinities have 3 mounting ears sticking out of the speaker frame.
    The 1681's normally sell for over $120 a pair, and are 4 way, 260 watt, as opposed to the factory 1 ways, 50 watts. I would have to recommend these speakers to anyone who wants to replace their factory speakers.

    BTW...'97 Dakota....running great, no problems, and just made its second trip to the dealership...this time for transmission fluid, filters, pan gasket. I was starting to get a few drips on the garage floor. I may keep this thing forever....only got 66K on it after 9.5 years.
  • cheetobanditocheetobandito Member Posts: 5
    Near death battery?....well let's see; not even a year old. However; Goodyear installed it. I think it's an Interstate. Leaks across the top and covered in dirt/dust....could it be shorting out everything or screwing up input signals to the computer?....last time the truck shut down was this morning, got the no bus again and had to wait about 2 minutes before it would start. And 'lo and behold..NO buzz in the radio...battery gage showing alternator output at 14....And then; 2 blocks later, here [non-permissible content removed] 'da buzz...battery gage still ok....no blower/fan. When I got home, I pulled in the driveway over one those gutters between the street and parking lot; kinda bounced the truck a bit and the engine quit. 2 minutes later it started but wouldn't keep running unless I gave it gas beyond normal idle. Parked it and let it run on it's own. My truck hates me....that's what it is. :cry:
  • me2butch4ume2butch4u Member Posts: 17
    Just developed a new problem with my 2000 dakota. Went out to start it today and it started right up and was making a knocking noise. Shifted into gear and noise went away. Seem to run and drive same as it ever did. Noise is like a knock or like something is hitting something when engine is running but only when in park. Any clues??
    Thanks
    Deb :confuse:
  • keith1975keith1975 Member Posts: 2
    I recently had the air conditioner fixed in my 2000 Dakota. Now there is this metallic clicking noise that gets louder when I accelerate. I also have to replace one of the o2 sensors because my dual exhaust. Is there something I can do about these twp problems?
  • me2butch4ume2butch4u Member Posts: 17
    Try the Throttle Position Sensor. Someone told me about it and I changed it right off and it solved a lot of problems. My truck no longer backfires or bucks and it seems to shift smoother. For my 2000 Dakota the part cost $83 bucks and took 7 minutes to install.
    Good luck
    Deb
  • gmightgmight Member Posts: 1
    Hello,

    I've been having a few problems with my 2000 quad-cab 4.7, Dakota in the past week. In the beginning the truck stalled on me and the engine light came on; I was able to stabilize the car by simply shutting off the AC; but I still had an erratic rpm needle. I quickly pulled the diagnostic codes from the odometer which where: 1491 and 1282.

    1491: Rad Fan Control Relay Circuit
    1282: Fuel Pump Relay Control Circuit

    I went to AutoZone and found out that the relays in question are identical and swappable; which was kind of cool. The cost me 11 bucks each, I bought three of them just in case. And so I thought I was well on my way to fixing my problems. I removed the old relays and popped in the new ones. I started the truck and the idle was back to normal, I was thrilled! But the engine light was still on; so I pulled the negative cable from the battery to reset the light. When I reconnected the battery the engine light was still on. I ran the on-off routine to check the codes again and this time I only got one diagnostic code 1491. I thought to my self how could this be I've just replaced the relay then it dawned on me that I had not tried the Air conditioner yet. So I turned the truck on (it purred) then I hit the AC and the idle needle went berserk! Then the engine stalled. Ah nuts!

    As a side note, when I pulled the Radiator Fan Relay I noticed that it had signs of being hot, I could see on the sides of the relay how it had taken some heat.

    So at this point Im not sure what to do, I could use some good advice here.
  • brucetntbrucetnt Member Posts: 1
    i think there is a resistor that controls the heater/ac motor. on my older dakota it was on the firewall, but i now have a 2002.......where did they put it?
  • ronslakie1ronslakie1 Member Posts: 57
    I have not had to look for mine yet (2K Dak) but I believe in other discussions I have seen that it is behind the glovebox for 2K and up.
  • sunburnsunburn Member Posts: 319
    The blower resistor is in the air plenum on the passenger side. It's just to the left of the blower on the bottom of the air plenum. It has 5 wires running to it. It's held in with 2 hex head screws. It is a little bit of a pain to get the left-most screw out (you need to push the lower HVAC ducts aside).
  • brad50brad50 Member Posts: 2
    Just bought a 2001 Quad Cab. The headlights are always on from the point I start the truck, even with the lights switch off. I don't believe it's Canadian, because the headlights don't appear to be 50%, nor do they go off when the parking break is on. It's as if the headlights switch is always on.
    Any ideas?
  • brad50brad50 Member Posts: 2
    Should the doors auto lock before the car is in gear and moving? Tried to disable the auto lock feature, but no chime response.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    look to see if your Dak has the DRL (Daytime Running Lamp) unit installed.... if it is NOT installed but your headlights are always on... this may be a cause for concern.

    If the headlights are on only with engine running... this may not be a big deal... DRL is known to save lives and is not a bad idea to turn on lights anyway.
  • kelly_dakotakelly_dakota Member Posts: 3
    The fan clutch was what I just had replaced and that is when the noise started every single time I start the truck. The fan does spin freely when the engine is off. I've had it back to the mechanic that put in the new fan clutch and he says that nothing is wrong with it - it is supposed to cycle like that. I don't see this as a normal noise and have never heard another car make this roaring noise every single time it starts up. I also have a hard time believing this is normal since it didn't start on my old fan clutch until it went bad - and now the replacement fan clutch does it every single time I start?
  • dewaltdakotadewaltdakota Member Posts: 364
    I've had the roaring noise on startup on all three Dakotas I have owned (1997 SLT EXT-CAB 4X2, 2003 SXT Reg Cab 4x2, and 2005 Laramie QC 4x4). The service department always says "that's just what it does."

    There is no real consistency to the conditions under which it will do it, and when it won't. In fact, it did it this morning, but not yesterday.
  • cheetobanditocheetobandito Member Posts: 5
    Anybody here got a Grand to loan? Need about $1000 to get my truck back from dodge. They said the computer took a dump. So did I; right in my shorts when they told me how much. They said it runs fine....we'll see. Also, the pc had a core charge...never heard of that on electronics. :sick:
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    The noise produced by the fan clutch on your Dakota is normal.

    The Dakota uses a viscous clutch fan that permits reduced load and subsequent loss of horsepower at high speeds, yet increased cooling capacity at low speeds. These fans utilize a thermostatic bimetallic coil spring that reacts to ait temperature.

    The viscous clutch fans used by Chrysler on the Dakota are classified as high efficiency type, as opposed to older designs used by auto makers years ago. A unusual artifact of this type of design is the fact that often...but not always...upon start up the clutch fan will be fully engaged. When working properly the clutch will release within a few seconds of forward operation when the fan begins drawing cooler air through the radiator. As soon as the thermostatic spring senses the cooler air the clutch will release and the fan will spin freely. When this happens you hear the noise stop.

    Best regards,
    Dusty
  • ayerbrianayerbrian Member Posts: 1
    I have the same issue with my 04 dakota and have been told that it may just be a problem that can't be fixed. I would be interested in anything that can be done about this too.
  • erictlerictl Member Posts: 3
    Am I correct in thinking that the thermostat is not opening enough in my 1995 Dodge Dakota if the temperature gauge rises to the maximum safe level (not over to the hot mark yet) at higher rates of speed (55-65mph) and not at slower speeds? It didn't rise to that temperature before. Someone said that it could be the water pump. Should I change the thermostat, it is the original one.

    eric
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    In general, the higher engine speeds coupled with highway driving should OVERCOOL the engine. This is perhaps BEST CASE situation from cooling perspective.

    The cooling system is more heavilly loaded with stop-n-go, slow traffic due to little airflow thru radiator and low engine speeds (waterpump is slow).

    Given the above, you need to ascertain WHY the temp is going up when the cooling system has the LOWEST load on it.

    Given the age of your Dak, there are several things that should be checked out.

    **)Are the radiator fins intact and not corroded?
    **)Is coolant up to proper level?
    **)Is there buildup of crud plugging the system?
    **)Is waterpump moving the coolant? (check belt tension)
    **)Does thermostat function? (soak in hot water with thermomator and observe operation)
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    A bad radiator cap can cause this symptom also.

    Since the system was opened you need to make sure that the radiator has sufficient coolant.

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • rlhouffrlhouff Member Posts: 1
    2001 Dodge Dakota, 5.9L. This was the message from engine diag. tool. Loss in power and sounds like it's blowing air.
  • tjfitztjfitz Member Posts: 41
    Hello again. I posted a history of a problem with a 1990 Dodge Dakota on June 5th. It is posting #4227. I was in the US all of July and had a look at the pickup at my sister's house in Minneapolis and all seemed OK, but I am certainly no expert on auto electrics. I am back in Ireland now, and my daughter and son have driven from Minneapolis to Bismarck with no problems until Saturday when they stopped in a parking lot and went to a grocery store. When they got back, the engine would not turn-over from the ignition key.

    However, when they tried the "jumper" trick described in #4227, the engine turned over fine and started and the problem hasn't repeated (as of today, Monday). While in Minneapolis, I spoke with my nephew who had the pickup for 3 years and also with the neighbor down the street who showed the nephew how to start the car. The technique is to take a piece of what looks like 14 gauge insulated copper wire like the kind used to wire outlets in the house, strip about 3/4 inch of insulation from either end and use that as the jumper. Then, near the battery, there is a push-in connector that, as I remember, has a red wire on the male half of the plug leading toward the firewall and maybe the ignition switch, and on the female side another red wire leading toward the battery. The technique is to pull the connection plug apart, stick one of the bare copper ends of the jumper into one of the two connector sockets on the female half and then turn the ignition switch to "on" and then touch the positive pole of the battery with the other bare copper end of the jumper. That engages the starter and starts the engine. My nephew says it was foolproof.

    This pickup has been to two or three garages and one of them replaced the ignition switch and some wiring that runs along the steering column. The other two garages charged big bucks for changing every electrical part possible connected with the ignition system except for the solenoid and the starter. The most recent garage is convinced the headlights were left on and the battery was run-down, and that was why the engine wouldn't start.

    The neighbor thinks it is a starter problem and thinks the garages were wrong for dismissing that possibility. He said when he checked for voltage at a time when the engine wouldn't start from the ignition switch (after the switch and wiring had been replaced, and after the pickup had been starting well for several months) he found voltage up to the plug I mentioned above, but nothing at all beyond it, even the dashboard lights not working. On this episode of Saturday, my son and daughter said the lights on the dashboard worked fine.

    We would all be very grateful for any ideas that anyone might have of what is happening.
  • firstdakotafirstdakota Member Posts: 3
    just became a member.. but saw your message and i feel for ya.. new truck and stain... only i clean carpets and apolstry (sp) one thing i've found with coffee stains.. are this.. if not treated with a proper cleaner to start with,, this will set the stain basically making it perminant. Best thing to do is use an apolstry cleaner like you listed.. while it is still wet.. did you use something else before resorting to what you listed.. just curous as it may have set the stain.

    anway.. bla bla bla isall i hear from my self so i'll shut up...lol
  • firstdakotafirstdakota Member Posts: 3
    Hey, i'm new.. i have a 1999 dodge dakota.. sport.. 2wd, 3.9 6cyl..
    anyway here is my problem.. i just had the tensioner replaced. .. was charged 181 bucks for the part i realize this is too much.. anyway.. so not after paying the stupid bill...i'm stuck with a fan the is roaring like a woken bear. what is going on.. i checked the fan.. and it is actually loose to the touch.. it.. moves front to back.actually feels loose..was it the mechanic's fault for not tight'n properlly .. or is this a comcon problem the just has to be fixed every once in a blue moon????
  • Karen_SKaren_S Member Posts: 5,092
    A national newspaper is looking to interview consumers who have decided to hold on to their current pickup truck, rather than purchasing a new one. Please send an e-mail to ctalati@edmunds.com no later than Wednesday, August 9, 2006 by 2:30 PM PT/5:30 PM ET containing your daytime contact information and what pickup truck you currently own.
  • me2butch4ume2butch4u Member Posts: 17
    HERE'S THE HISTORY: I have a 2000 dakota and wrote in a while ago about it running rough and backfiring. After COMPLETE tune-up, still running rough. I changed the throttle position sensor and it seemed to run fine for about a week. THEN...the check engine light came on and it began to run rough again. Took it to Autozone to check the code and it coded for a loose gas cap. (of all things). Just to be sure that it was a bad cap and not just loose, I had them reset the light and I ran it around for another week. It still ran rough and was back up to it's old pre-TPS replacement behavior. Check engine light came on again and again it coded for a loose gas cap. I replaced the gas cap yesterday and so far it is running better.
    HERE'S THE QUESTION: Will the bad gas cap effect the way the truck runs? I am perplexed because this rough running and backfiring thing had been going on ever since I bought this thing and neither I nor the mechanic can figure it out. I am getting really frustrated with it and any other help would be greatly appreciated. :confuse: :confuse: :confuse:
  • firstdakotafirstdakota Member Posts: 3
    Dusty.. i find that a little strange.. why is it then that my dakota.. which i've had for only 3 months now.. never made a noise from the fan clutch.. until after i took it to the mechanic to get the belt tensioner replaced... now it makes a rotten roaring noise.. that sounds like i'm driving a piece of crap.. the fan clutch assembly seems to have alot of play in it. would it be time to replace it?
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    The Dakota service manual states that there should be "no play" in the thermostatic Fan Clutch assembly. If you apply back-and-forth force to the fan blades in the axial position (attempting to move the fan blades in a line from the front to the rear of the vehicle), there should be no perceptible movement.

    Another test is to spin the fan with a brisk motion. When fully warmed the fan should not rotate one revolution, and they typically move no more than one or two blades distance.

    The noise is normal as previously described. I cannot offer a logical explanation at this time, except that maybe the belt was so loose that the fan was not receiving enough drive until the tensioner was replaced.

    Best regards,
    Dusty
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    Noise produced by the fan clutch on a Dakota is normal.

    The Dakota uses a viscous clutch fan that permits reduced load and subsequent loss of horsepower at high speeds, yet increased cooling capacity at low speeds. These fans contain a silicone filled coupling that connects the fan blades to the water pump shaft. This design utilize a thermostatic bimetallic coil spring that reacts to the temperature of the radiator discharge air.

    If the air temperature rises above a certain point, the bimetalic exerts pressure against a slip clutch and allows power of the water pump shaft to be transmitted through coupling to the fan assembly. This raises the speed of the fan blades and increases air flow through the radiator to provide increased cooling.

    Sometimes after the vehicle has been driven to operating temperature the bimetalic spring may expand to the maximum coupling position due to localized heat from the engine or radiator after shutdown. After a cooling period the spring may not contract or contract fully. Upon restart the expanded spring causes the fan to spin at engine RPM until enough cool air has been drawn through the radiator, Then the spring contracts. This is what causes that momentary period when the fan is heard.

    Testing the Fan Clutch Assembly

    If the fan assembly free-wheels without drag for more than five revolutions when spun by hand, the fan clutch assembly is defective. This test must be conducted when the engine is completely cool.

    Fan drive engagement begins between 165 to 180 degrees F.

    There should be no perceptible lateral movement of the fan blades. If so, the fan assembly is defective.

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    Just to clarify.... when dusty says "Fan drive engagement begins between 165 to 180 degrees F."... this is refering to the AIR BEING PULLED FROM THE RADIATOR...not engine temparture.

    I know that in over 6 years, my fanclutch has NEVER enguaged due to heat from the radiator. HOWEVER: my fanclutch enguages for about1 mile of driving when ambient temps are about 40 degrees. (this is also normal behaviour)The silicone fluid inside the fanclutch gets "thick" and takes some time for the centripital forces to move it around.
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    Bpeebles is correct.

    Mine engages at very low temperatures (winter) but releases by the time the transmission is in second gear, and it's always done that even on the one that Dodge replaced a couple of years ago.

    Best regards,
    Dusty
  • tjfitztjfitz Member Posts: 41
    I posted a question on a 1990 Dodge Dakota under numbers 4288 and 4227, having to do with intermittent starting problems.

    Now I am beginning to suspect it has something to do with the Neutral Safety Switch. The pickup has an automatic transmission, and the gear shift lever is a little reluctant to move easily at times. My daughter has found that jiggling the lever back and forth around neutral seems to take care of the starting problem.

    If this is the problem, I am surprised that three garages didn't find it.
  • tjfitztjfitz Member Posts: 41
    Hope I'm not annoying people with my posts on the 1990 Dakota starting problem. However, I just found the below quote (edited by me) on the Internet, in connection with installation of a remote starting switch. It only refers to pre-1996 Dakotas with 2.5 liter engines, but my 3.9 liter engine 1990 Dodge Dakota certainly has its automatic transmission gear selector lever on the steering column, too, and I wonder if my pickup's Neutral Safety Switch is mechanically-combined with the gear selector lever somewhere on the column?

    "Some vehicles combine the column shift mechanism and the mechanical neutral safety switch into one mechanical part. According to available information, vehicles known to be manufactured this way are most General Motors trucks, sport utility vehicles and column shifting passenger vehicles. Available information also indicates that pre-1996 Dodge Dakota pickups with 2.5 liter motors are also manufactured this way."

    http://www.abtelectronics.com/images/products/BDP%20Images/N562P_6-03.pdf
  • dave392dave392 Member Posts: 1
    1990 dodge Dakota driving down the hwy and the engine just quits running no cough just dies, I find it has no spark checked the coil has 12v to it and 1.5 ohm across the terminal the cap and rotor look’s good
    At this point I’m stuck. I need some help on the next steps to take to go to from here.

    It cranks but wont start or run it has no spark it has no antitheift device, the Neutral Safety Switch is will keep it from cranking. but not keep the spark from happening from what I believe.
  • brophbroph Member Posts: 85
    I had the same problem with my 1990 dakota, riding at 65 in rush hour traffic when everything died. I was able to get it going again to get it home. Diagnosis was a new computer and distributor by a reputiple mechanic. Just a thought. I also had a Chevy Blazer that would crank but would not start, that also needed a distributor.
  • themcbrides_1themcbrides_1 Member Posts: 1
    do you know what size bolt threads are or what size coil you use
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