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Dodge Dakota: Problems & Solutions

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Comments

  • kelly_dakotakelly_dakota Member Posts: 3
    Just to follow-up on the engine roaring noise. The repair shop took out the fan clutch they originally put in and put in a new one from Dodge and the noise has stopped! So I guess in this case you just have to pay an extra 60 bucks to have some silence.
  • missmaemissmae Member Posts: 1
    At about 5000 miles my dakota started shimmying when the breaks are applied. The dealer has replaces the breaks 3x's
    also fixing rotters,and replacing them.This last time they replaces my line because they said they thinned it out two many times.The shimmying always comes back about 4000-5000 miles after they fix them.
    this last time they fixed them,he said It still has the shimmying but will go away when the pads adjust to my roters.WILL this Shimmying ever go away????????????/ :confuse:
  • dewaltdakotadewaltdakota Member Posts: 364
    The 05/06 Dakota "shimmy-shimmy-shake" is a widely reported issue, with numerous dealers making many varied attempts to resolve the problem. I've yet to hear of anyone coming across the true solution to this issue.
  • sladeslade Member Posts: 3
    hey, mine just started to drag. no power off the line. it feels like the brakes are engaging a little bit. i take my foot off and it slows right down. anybody have a idea?
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    It has been mentiond many times in previous appends how to check to see if your brakes are dragging. It is a simple check you can do by just driving and then feeling for heat.

    Please review the archives for details.

    As for a "fix" for dragging front brakes.... replacement of the sticky caliper is the ONLY long-term fix. Anything else would be a temporary band-aid.

    For reference - My 2000 Dak had both front calipers start to stick within 3 months of each other. In both cases, I installed rebuilt caliper and have never had another issue with dragging brakes.
  • sladeslade Member Posts: 3
    thanks, i had hoped it was that simple.
  • drholland77drholland77 Member Posts: 8
    How much did it cost to replace the speed sensor valve? I have the same problem.

    Auto Zone has a diagnostic tester that they lend to anyone who has I.D. The don't advertise this fact, but it is good to know.
    My '99 dakota has 70,000 miles and the speedometer went out, in turn the , the ABS light came on AND the red brake lamp. The problem turned out to be the speed sensor valve, mounted on the rear differential housing. What really sucks is that you might think you can do without the speedometer for awhile, but when the ABS light comes on,it's telling you that it automatically turned itself off. Better not slam on your breaks!
  • eharri3eharri3 Member Posts: 640
    In my opinion as long as you have factory brakes on there you are guarenteed to have problems. My buddy who used to work at a dealership swears DC can't design proper truck brakes if its life depended on it. He said his dealership actually started going to outside suppliers after repeatedly replacing factory brake components that just went bad again in another few thousand miles.

    On my 04 Dakota 4x4 Quad my first set warped, and warped BADLY, at just after 7500 miles of all highway driving. After fighting with my dealership to even get them to admit that there was a vibration problem they admitted that all four rotors were warped and replaced them with a new set for free. I was fine for 3-4 months, then that 2nd set started causing another steering wheel vibration when braking right after my 12000 mile goodwill brake replacement period was up. It started as a very minor shimmy so I tolerated it until 45 thousand miles when it got so bad that the whole truck would vibrate violently in hard braking and when you tried to talk while the brakes were applied your voice waivered like you were sitting in the middle of an earthquake. As of 1000 miles ago there is now a set of Raybestos rotors with Bendix titanium metallic II pads on the front and the truck is now 100% vibration free in all braking situations. This is the best the truck has ever felt in braking, with much better pedal feel. Finally feels like I have something that can stand up to a little abuse. It'll eventually get the same combo on the back.

    Gas and time repeatedly going back to the dealership can be cost prohibitive and the stress of having such problems with a new vehicle probably isn't worth it anymore even if you're getting goodwill replacements. And if you're no longer getting free replacements I definitely wouldn't let a dealership put factory brakes on the truck again. Whatever they did to fiddle with the brake lines won't help and the thing about the brakes seating with the pads eventually solving the vibration problems isn't true. They're lying to you just so you go away without raising an even bigger stink. Dodge Dakota rotors are utter garbage, plain and simple.

    IMHO, do some research on the net and get a consensus on good aftermarket rotor/pad combos for your truck. Mine works for me, but you may want something different. The important part is make sure none of it is mopar. Spend 100-150$ for good front pads and rotors and another 60$ for the labor and then enjoy problem-free braking for another 50-100,000 miles.

    They don't make them like the used to. My old 95 Ranger had the factory rotors on it when I traded with one resurfacing at 100K, and I beat the snot out of that truck. On the Dak if I would have kept getting factory brakes put on I'd probably literally need rotors with every oil change. The one good thing I can say is between rotor issues and wheel balance issues, I have gotten really good at 'seat of the pants' diagnosis of vibration problems.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    I second thaqt opionion..... the factory brake rotors are junk. Why waste your time having the dealership install the same junk?

    I went thru factory rotors and some expensive "powerslot" rotors too. This is what the powerslot looked like after 3 winters.

    Now, I have the Raybestos / Bendix rotors installed on my dakota. They have lasted TWICE as long as the factory or the "powerslot" rotors and are still going.

    I dont know about you .... but it is a big waste of my time to do a rinky-dink job on my brake system. In the long run it costs less and is safer to just install quality components and be done with it.
  • brophbroph Member Posts: 85
    I bought a quadcab about a month ago which did not have the rear window defroster option. I asked the dealer roughly how much one would cost, he said that the window itself was $650 plus, but mentioned about a stick-on one from a parts store. The option is only $160 from factory. Has anyone done something like this before? Running wire is a pain but could be done, it would really be nice to see out the rear window in the winter. Thanks for any input - Tom
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    I have a cap on my truck and visability out the back window is nil. Most trucks have no rear window at all. It took me a while to get accostumed to using the side mirrors but now I can back up as well as any trucker using just the mirrors.

    Perhaps you just need to start using your mirrors as they are meant to be used.

    Another option would be to keep a rag in your truck and simply wipe off the rear window on those rare occasions it gets fogged up.

    OR... you could always drive your Dakota like my wife does mine.... never EVER back up.
  • curious_gearscurious_gears Member Posts: 60
    well, i would check and see how your mass air flow sensor is doing. what it does is regulate the ammount of air and gas mixture being put into the engine. that might be starting to go, and if the gas cap could have been bad, it could have been allowing moisture into the gas tank, and that moisture could have made the mass air flow sensor freak out
  • 03dakota03dakota Member Posts: 3
    had warranty replacement of master cylinder and power assist unit. brakes are soft and need bled but dealer is either lazy or incompetent , puts more effort into smooth talking than into troubleshooting/repairing. I've been away from shade-tree
    repairs for a while , what is the procedure for a home hack without a manual to bleed ABS brakes? Sounds like you guys have been through all of this and I hope you still visit the site to help us other poor fools.
  • brophbroph Member Posts: 85
    I replaced my Silverado extcab with the Dakota and that's how I used to back that thing up, with the mirrors. After posting the query, I got to thinking that putting in a rear defroster would not be a good idea anyway. I eventually want to get a cap and it would be 1 more thing to go wrong. Thanks for the feedback.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    Dakota does not use MAF (MassAirFlow)sensor ... instead it uses MAP(Manifold Absolute Pressure)sensor.

    MAF sensor is more accurate. It actually measures the mass of the airflow into the engine and automatically compensates for temparure and air-density. MAF is also more expensive and very sensitive to contamination. (Oiled-guaze airfilters can ruin a MAF sensor)

    MAP is just a vacuum sensor in the intake manifold. The computer has to also take temparture readings and other sensor inputs to CALCULATE the amount of air entering the engine. MAP based systems are cheeper... but tend to be inaccurate. As airfilter starts to plug and air-density flucuates, its calculations are less than accurate.

    ---------------------

    ALSO: Moisture in the fuel has no affect WHATSOEVER on either MAF or MAP systems. The fuel never ever comes anywhere near either of the sensors.
  • spurmanspurman Member Posts: 1
    Have you solved the problem with the gas gauge? I have a 2002 dakota quad cab with the 4.7/auto that started the same problem. It started out a couple of weeks ago,intermittently, when the tank got low on fuel, but today the tank was 3/4 full the gauge went to empty and will not move.
  • datagurudataguru Member Posts: 95
    At the 70K maintenance servicing at the dealer, I was advised during fluid levels checks that the rear differential fluids had traces of metal in the oil and further visual checks indicated that the LSD clutch retainers are broken and the mechanism has begun to slide from its normal position. The parts are on order and will replace when they arrive. There is absolutely no noise whatsoever but, they said it is ok to continue driving. I wonder if the gears are damaged? Has anyone experienced this situation with their Dakota or can offer some information on this? I am a normal sedate driver and am puzzled what could have caused it. Any recommendations are muchly appreciated. Specs - 2003 Quad Cab 4.7L 2WD LSD 3.92 5-45RFE Auto Trans.

    Thanks in advance.
    dataguru
  • mike133mike133 Member Posts: 13
    This is a known problem for the dakota with LSD rear differential. Good thing it was caught while under warranty. Should not cost you anything. Most in the know will change the rear differential fluid before 20K to check on the clips. If not fixed in time the differential will fail and cost big bucks to fix.
  • uberdaveyuberdavey Member Posts: 1
    My truck has been making a strange squeeking noise. I can only hear the noise between 25 and 50 mph.Slower or faster then that and I cannot hear it. It sounds like it is coming from the rear passenger side. The sound speeds up a little as i accelerate between 25 and 50. Was at the dealership awhile ago and asked about it and they said it was probably just due to the new tires. Been a few months and it is still doing this. Any ideas as to what it is?
  • datagurudataguru Member Posts: 95
    mike133 - thanks for your feedback.

    Was there a standard TSB issued on this or a recall issued? I can't find any details on this issue.

    dataguru
  • mike133mike133 Member Posts: 13
    I am not aware of any TSB on it. Not all LSD rear differentials will have this problem. Check out other Dodge Dakota and Dodge Ram forums. The C-clips for the LSD will come loose or fall out and cause damage. Will usually happen under 20K and differential will fail after warranty is up. The only way to know for sure is with a visual inspection with the rear housing cover off. This is a problem in the current and past years.
  • modanncnrmodanncnr Member Posts: 12
    THANKS FOR YOUR INPUT. I just hopped on here to find that someone gave a false explanation of the MAP/BARO system as well as the MAF. THanks for putting it straight. Have been ASE certified for years now and am considering a Dakota. I have read all about the brakes, etc and wonder mostly about fuel consumption / mileage. WHat are you guys getting for mileage on the 4.7, the 3.7 and the HO 4.7/5.2 motors. Would appreciate info.
  • modanncnrmodanncnr Member Posts: 12
    THere are no rear defroster kits any longer that are worth a crap. It used to be that you could install a kit from Frostemp, Winzer, Clardy, Borg Warner or Wurth, but none produce it any longer.

    I was the service manager at an quto-electric repair facility for 4 years and we installed defrost, cruise, seat heaters, obstacle sensing systems, etc along with severe diagnosis and full scale repairs. Believe me, you would be much better off with a new window.

    Once you consider, really consider the costs, of an aftermarket kit, the wiring, relay, switches and blank fuse panel wiring and location for the load of 10-20 amps, then it is not even worth it. Besides, here in the NW, I have yet to see a parts store offer such a thing. Their repair kits, which are avail. for cracks less than 1 inch long on a grid line, are made by Permatex (c)and are junk as well. Try to stay far away from A/M kits for accessories such as you mentioned, if you don't want a migraine headache.
  • snowedinsnowedin Member Posts: 58
    Has anyone been able to replace just the bearing on the A/C pulley? I have a loud grinding/squeaking noise on my '00 quad cab that spray lube won't quiet.
  • brophbroph Member Posts: 85
    modanncnr - thanks for the input, after much consideration I have decided it would be better to just leave well enough alone. I lived this long without a rear defroster.
  • datagurudataguru Member Posts: 95
    mike133 - thanks for the feedback and tips. The clutch retainer clips were replaced under warranty; however, I had to pay a $100 deductible fee to offset the repair costs.

    Has anyone heard of such a requirement for rear-end differential repairs under factory warranty?

    Thanks.
    dataguru
  • dewaltdakotadewaltdakota Member Posts: 364
    It depends upon whether or not you're still under the 3/36 bumper to bumper warranty. I believe the 7/70 powertrain warranty carries with it a $100 deductible, while the B2B warranty does not.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    "Was yours the 8.25 or the 9.25 axle?"

    HINT: Count the bolts on the differential cover the 9.25" has 12 bolts while the 8.25" has only 10 bolts holding the cover on.

    BTW: I beleive that the 9.25 was only delivered on 4X4 Dakotas
  • sfrensfren Member Posts: 8
    I have a 2000 Dakota with a turn signal problem. Passenger side works fine but the drivers side blinks very fast.
    there are no bulbs burnt out. What could be the problem?
  • bookittybookitty Member Posts: 1,303
    Usually, that would indicate a bulb. You might try replacing the "flasher can" to see if that takes care of it.

    Bookitty
  • sfrensfren Member Posts: 8
    It must be the flasher cause all the lights are working correctly. None burnt out.
  • az_jabaz_jab Member Posts: 1
    I have an '01 4.7L Quad Cab 4x4. The key fob and door switches won't actuate the door locks or alarm system. PW work. Emergency flashers and turn signals work but dash lights and head/tail lights don't. Radio works but not with column controls. Idiot light on dashboard shows "Check 4WD". Engine, brakes and steering are fine. Any ideas????
  • snowedinsnowedin Member Posts: 58
    had to replace a/c clutch assembly. $240 from dealer
  • tiiitiii Member Posts: 1
    First make sure it is the clutch bearing. If the noise stops when the engine is running and A/C is on, it is the clutch bearing. If not, it's something else. I was able to replace the bearing on my '98 Dakota. With engine off, turn key on and A/C on, and take off front nut. Turn key off and pry outer plate off. Next is a snapring to remove clutch rotor (part whre belt rides). As I remember, bearing is inside rotor, and I think held on with another snapring. Bearing I purchased was Nachi 35BG05S10G2DST2, got it from local industrial bearing/belting/hose supplier.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    BRAVO to you!! I like to hear when folks are able to go outside the "auto world" to fix somthing.

    When it comes to bearings... all the automakers just select bearings out of a book. There is nothing "special" about the bearings besides the specs. selected out of the bearing book.

    I often use local indristral bearing supplier when I need bearings. I just take in the bearing to be replaced, they measure it with a verniar caliper and usually have several "options" like "how many balls?" and "what kind of seals?". I rebuilt an out-of-production Itialian minibike (Benelli) and all the engine bearings and wheel bearings were in-stock items at indrustial-supplier.
  • dakotasondakotason Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2001 Dakota SLT Quad cab, 4.7L auto and I'm having the same problem at 68,000 mi. I'm wondering if anyone ever helped you with your problem. I couldn't find the answer. In another forum, I found someone mentioned a Timer Control Module for a similar problem in a 2002 Dakota 4X4. Please let me know what you found out. Thanks Dakotason.
  • datagurudataguru Member Posts: 95
    dewaltdakota - thanks; that explains it.

    The 3/36 bumper to bumper warranty has ended and the 7/70 powertrain warranty is currently applicable.

    dataguru
  • datagurudataguru Member Posts: 95
    Hi Dusty,

    If I recall, I believe the glovebox decal indicated Corporate 9.25 inch. I will double check.

    thanks
    dataguru
  • datagurudataguru Member Posts: 95
    Hi Bruce,

    Good point; I will do a bolt count to compare with the glovebox information to confirm and report.

    thanks
    dataguru
  • hdride99hdride99 Member Posts: 1
    Thermostat and blower working OK, but no heat. Heating is OK otherwise. Can anyone suggest how to fix?
  • dinkydowdinkydow Member Posts: 3
    I want to change the Dino fluid in my Dakota to synthetic. I see in the manual, I have and 06, that it already has synthetic in the rear differential. I was underneath the Dakota yesterday and looked for the drain and refill plug on the front differential and could not find it. Does anyone know where the drain and refill plugs are for the transfer case and the front differential. I would really appreciate your help!!
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    I am not certain about the 2006... but in past years, the differentials have no drain plugs. There were 2 choices.

    *)Pull the cover to drain it. (which is messy and makes an otherwise simple task a hassle)
    *) Use oil-sucker to suck the (warmed) fluid out of the rubber fill plug.

    The FRONT differential poses even more of a hassle due to limited clearance to access the fill-plug. A secret is to use the vent hose (comes up near the battery) as a 'funnel' to fill it.
  • dinkydowdinkydow Member Posts: 3
    Thank you for your help bpeebles!! What are they thinking of, obviously with the the set up there is, no drain plugs, people, like me, who would other wise change the differentials fluid will just skip doing it. Are they trying to discourage changing the fluids or are they just cheap and want to save a buck or two by not installing drain and refill plugs?
  • nmacha1nmacha1 Member Posts: 9
    5.5 is enough for me, and i keep the rest handy jic.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    The 4.7L is a "slow drainer" due to the hollow camshafts which are used to supply oil to the lobes and valvetrain components.

    Also, I recall where the oil on my dipstick was when brand-spanking new right off the delivery-truck to the dealership.
    If a 4.7L engine has been sitting for any length of time, the oil on the dipstick will show ABOVE the full mark. (again-- due to the hollow camshafts draining into the crankcase)

    If properly drained. (at least 30-40 minutes of dripping hot oil) The 4.7L engine will take 6 quarts of oil and be exactly right on the dipstick if checked about 5 minutes after turining off engine.
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    Differential drain plugs were eliminated by most auto and light duty truck manufacturers a long time ago. Yes, there is a cost savings but even in today's economy it is not a sum that represents an overwhelming consideration.

    The more primary reason it is not found on most light duty vehicles is to force removal of the differential cover to encourage inspection of the differential components and a check for the presence of foreign material. When drain plugs are found on differentials, gear inspection is far less likely to be performed.

    As an aside, the 9.25 axle assembly was standard on 4x2 Dakotas over a certain GVW (6000 pounds, I think). It was standard on Club Cab Sport Plus 4x2 versions in 2003. I have one.

    Best regards,
  • datagurudataguru Member Posts: 95
    Dusty,

    I doubled checked the glove-box and have confirmed the LSD rear-end differential is a Corporate 9.25 inch version.

    dataguru
  • datagurudataguru Member Posts: 95
    Bruce,

    I have confirmed a count of 12 bolts on the cover of the LSD rear-end differential and info printed on the decal in the glove-box indicates this one to be a Corporate 9.25 inch version. This one is a 2WD model built/assembled in May 2003.

    dataguru
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    (dataguru) Thanks for the info. (That is why you are the dataguru ;-)

    I guess I have yet to figure out the "algorythim" which the factory used to determine when they installed the 8.25 -or- 9.25 rear axle. Perhaps it is based on engine/xmission options?
  • datagurudataguru Member Posts: 95
    Bruce,

    Yes, not sure what the configuration rules are. Perhaps engine/transmission combinations or a variety of other reasons...one, as Dusty alluded to having perhaps something to do with the GVW rating or towing capabilities of the vehicle or something like that?? or simply just using up the inventory stock of what's on hand at the time of assembly, perhaps?

    Ohhh, my moniker...bestowed upon me by a colleague from years working in the IT data management field.

    dataguru
This discussion has been closed.