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Dodge Dakota: Problems & Solutions
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Comments
also fixing rotters,and replacing them.This last time they replaces my line because they said they thinned it out two many times.The shimmying always comes back about 4000-5000 miles after they fix them.
this last time they fixed them,he said It still has the shimmying but will go away when the pads adjust to my roters.WILL this Shimmying ever go away????????????/ :confuse:
Please review the archives for details.
As for a "fix" for dragging front brakes.... replacement of the sticky caliper is the ONLY long-term fix. Anything else would be a temporary band-aid.
For reference - My 2000 Dak had both front calipers start to stick within 3 months of each other. In both cases, I installed rebuilt caliper and have never had another issue with dragging brakes.
Auto Zone has a diagnostic tester that they lend to anyone who has I.D. The don't advertise this fact, but it is good to know.
My '99 dakota has 70,000 miles and the speedometer went out, in turn the , the ABS light came on AND the red brake lamp. The problem turned out to be the speed sensor valve, mounted on the rear differential housing. What really sucks is that you might think you can do without the speedometer for awhile, but when the ABS light comes on,it's telling you that it automatically turned itself off. Better not slam on your breaks!
On my 04 Dakota 4x4 Quad my first set warped, and warped BADLY, at just after 7500 miles of all highway driving. After fighting with my dealership to even get them to admit that there was a vibration problem they admitted that all four rotors were warped and replaced them with a new set for free. I was fine for 3-4 months, then that 2nd set started causing another steering wheel vibration when braking right after my 12000 mile goodwill brake replacement period was up. It started as a very minor shimmy so I tolerated it until 45 thousand miles when it got so bad that the whole truck would vibrate violently in hard braking and when you tried to talk while the brakes were applied your voice waivered like you were sitting in the middle of an earthquake. As of 1000 miles ago there is now a set of Raybestos rotors with Bendix titanium metallic II pads on the front and the truck is now 100% vibration free in all braking situations. This is the best the truck has ever felt in braking, with much better pedal feel. Finally feels like I have something that can stand up to a little abuse. It'll eventually get the same combo on the back.
Gas and time repeatedly going back to the dealership can be cost prohibitive and the stress of having such problems with a new vehicle probably isn't worth it anymore even if you're getting goodwill replacements. And if you're no longer getting free replacements I definitely wouldn't let a dealership put factory brakes on the truck again. Whatever they did to fiddle with the brake lines won't help and the thing about the brakes seating with the pads eventually solving the vibration problems isn't true. They're lying to you just so you go away without raising an even bigger stink. Dodge Dakota rotors are utter garbage, plain and simple.
IMHO, do some research on the net and get a consensus on good aftermarket rotor/pad combos for your truck. Mine works for me, but you may want something different. The important part is make sure none of it is mopar. Spend 100-150$ for good front pads and rotors and another 60$ for the labor and then enjoy problem-free braking for another 50-100,000 miles.
They don't make them like the used to. My old 95 Ranger had the factory rotors on it when I traded with one resurfacing at 100K, and I beat the snot out of that truck. On the Dak if I would have kept getting factory brakes put on I'd probably literally need rotors with every oil change. The one good thing I can say is between rotor issues and wheel balance issues, I have gotten really good at 'seat of the pants' diagnosis of vibration problems.
I went thru factory rotors and some expensive "powerslot" rotors too. This is what the powerslot looked like after 3 winters.
Now, I have the Raybestos / Bendix rotors installed on my dakota. They have lasted TWICE as long as the factory or the "powerslot" rotors and are still going.
I dont know about you .... but it is a big waste of my time to do a rinky-dink job on my brake system. In the long run it costs less and is safer to just install quality components and be done with it.
Perhaps you just need to start using your mirrors as they are meant to be used.
Another option would be to keep a rag in your truck and simply wipe off the rear window on those rare occasions it gets fogged up.
OR... you could always drive your Dakota like my wife does mine.... never EVER back up.
repairs for a while , what is the procedure for a home hack without a manual to bleed ABS brakes? Sounds like you guys have been through all of this and I hope you still visit the site to help us other poor fools.
MAF sensor is more accurate. It actually measures the mass of the airflow into the engine and automatically compensates for temparure and air-density. MAF is also more expensive and very sensitive to contamination. (Oiled-guaze airfilters can ruin a MAF sensor)
MAP is just a vacuum sensor in the intake manifold. The computer has to also take temparture readings and other sensor inputs to CALCULATE the amount of air entering the engine. MAP based systems are cheeper... but tend to be inaccurate. As airfilter starts to plug and air-density flucuates, its calculations are less than accurate.
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ALSO: Moisture in the fuel has no affect WHATSOEVER on either MAF or MAP systems. The fuel never ever comes anywhere near either of the sensors.
Thanks in advance.
dataguru
Was there a standard TSB issued on this or a recall issued? I can't find any details on this issue.
dataguru
I was the service manager at an quto-electric repair facility for 4 years and we installed defrost, cruise, seat heaters, obstacle sensing systems, etc along with severe diagnosis and full scale repairs. Believe me, you would be much better off with a new window.
Once you consider, really consider the costs, of an aftermarket kit, the wiring, relay, switches and blank fuse panel wiring and location for the load of 10-20 amps, then it is not even worth it. Besides, here in the NW, I have yet to see a parts store offer such a thing. Their repair kits, which are avail. for cracks less than 1 inch long on a grid line, are made by Permatex (c)and are junk as well. Try to stay far away from A/M kits for accessories such as you mentioned, if you don't want a migraine headache.
Has anyone heard of such a requirement for rear-end differential repairs under factory warranty?
Thanks.
dataguru
HINT: Count the bolts on the differential cover the 9.25" has 12 bolts while the 8.25" has only 10 bolts holding the cover on.
BTW: I beleive that the 9.25 was only delivered on 4X4 Dakotas
there are no bulbs burnt out. What could be the problem?
Bookitty
When it comes to bearings... all the automakers just select bearings out of a book. There is nothing "special" about the bearings besides the specs. selected out of the bearing book.
I often use local indristral bearing supplier when I need bearings. I just take in the bearing to be replaced, they measure it with a verniar caliper and usually have several "options" like "how many balls?" and "what kind of seals?". I rebuilt an out-of-production Itialian minibike (Benelli) and all the engine bearings and wheel bearings were in-stock items at indrustial-supplier.
The 3/36 bumper to bumper warranty has ended and the 7/70 powertrain warranty is currently applicable.
dataguru
If I recall, I believe the glovebox decal indicated Corporate 9.25 inch. I will double check.
thanks
dataguru
Good point; I will do a bolt count to compare with the glovebox information to confirm and report.
thanks
dataguru
*)Pull the cover to drain it. (which is messy and makes an otherwise simple task a hassle)
*) Use oil-sucker to suck the (warmed) fluid out of the rubber fill plug.
The FRONT differential poses even more of a hassle due to limited clearance to access the fill-plug. A secret is to use the vent hose (comes up near the battery) as a 'funnel' to fill it.
Also, I recall where the oil on my dipstick was when brand-spanking new right off the delivery-truck to the dealership.
If a 4.7L engine has been sitting for any length of time, the oil on the dipstick will show ABOVE the full mark. (again-- due to the hollow camshafts draining into the crankcase)
If properly drained. (at least 30-40 minutes of dripping hot oil) The 4.7L engine will take 6 quarts of oil and be exactly right on the dipstick if checked about 5 minutes after turining off engine.
The more primary reason it is not found on most light duty vehicles is to force removal of the differential cover to encourage inspection of the differential components and a check for the presence of foreign material. When drain plugs are found on differentials, gear inspection is far less likely to be performed.
As an aside, the 9.25 axle assembly was standard on 4x2 Dakotas over a certain GVW (6000 pounds, I think). It was standard on Club Cab Sport Plus 4x2 versions in 2003. I have one.
Best regards,
I doubled checked the glove-box and have confirmed the LSD rear-end differential is a Corporate 9.25 inch version.
dataguru
I have confirmed a count of 12 bolts on the cover of the LSD rear-end differential and info printed on the decal in the glove-box indicates this one to be a Corporate 9.25 inch version. This one is a 2WD model built/assembled in May 2003.
dataguru
I guess I have yet to figure out the "algorythim" which the factory used to determine when they installed the 8.25 -or- 9.25 rear axle. Perhaps it is based on engine/xmission options?
Yes, not sure what the configuration rules are. Perhaps engine/transmission combinations or a variety of other reasons...one, as Dusty alluded to having perhaps something to do with the GVW rating or towing capabilities of the vehicle or something like that?? or simply just using up the inventory stock of what's on hand at the time of assembly, perhaps?
Ohhh, my moniker...bestowed upon me by a colleague from years working in the IT data management field.
dataguru