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Dodge Dakota: Problems & Solutions

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Comments

  • weebednaweebedna Member Posts: 30
    Are there any problems associated with the Cold Air Intake offered by Mopar or K&N??
    I'm considering getting one, but only if it will boost horsepower w/out any negative side effects...
  • ohc_babyohc_baby Member Posts: 116
    If you have a 4.7, check out http://www.quickd.com and http://www.intenseperformance.com/products/intense_air/intense_air.html (my personal favorite and what I run - scroll to the bottom). Both enjoy a good reputation on the Dakota Mailing List.
  • weebednaweebedna Member Posts: 30
    Thanks for the links ohc_baby. I really want to try this out, but have a few questions.
    1. Most of these systems don't have a hose to pull cold air thru the side of the engine bay to the filter. Won't this cause the system to just pull in hot air from inside the engine bay (especially in slow stop/start driving)?
    2. Isn't there a possibility of the filter getting soaked w/water during wet conditions/off road?
    3. For just the intakes (not throttle body), won't this cause warranty problems?
    4. I see systems w/steel and ABS hoses. Are the ABS hoses able to tolerate the heat?
    thanks for any help....
  • mopar67mopar67 Member Posts: 728
    That's the part the service manager did not explain to me in detail cause he did not have a service manual handy. By the way, what is the BOB? Is it a bible of sorts? If so, how do I get one?
  • spike50spike50 Member Posts: 481
    Took my samples yesterday with 11,900 miles on a '00 QC and 3,500 miles on the last oil / filter change. To get a sample, I ran a 36" long 5/32" stiff wall tube down the dipstich tube and used a large bore irrigation syringe that I got from a dentist. Samples taken hot after driving off and on for one hour. Will turn these into the lab at the local Caterpillar dealer (one used Mobil 1 5-30W oil and one with new Mobil 1). This will provide a baseline on "wear metals" that I can compare future results against. Should know by the end of next week and will post. I probably should have done this on the first two oil changes just to know. For approximately $13 its not cost prohibitive to do several times over the vehicle's life just in case something turns up with the 4.7L.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    (mopar67) The term BOB was first coined right here on an edmunds Dakota forum by somone that has been contributing to these forums almost as long as I have. It refers to the factory service manual for the Dakota.

    It is a bible of sorts because it has technical explinations of the operation of virtually every device on the vehicle. It is FAR superiour to the Clymer or Haynes manuals that try to cover many years of vehicles in one small book. The BOB is specifically for ONE model year and is over 3 inches thick.

    I always ask the salesman to "throw in" the shop manual as I am closing the deal... they do not want to loose a sale so they agree. You can get one by ordering the PartNumber for it found in the back of your owners manual. (about $100)

    Why is it called BOB? ... because of its color (Big Orange Book)
  • bmwjoebmwjoe Member Posts: 136
    The factory service manual for my 98 Dakota is Green. Is the BOB a BGB too?

    Whatever the color, the book is good. I always get a manual for every vehicle.

    Drive Safe,

    Joe
  • mopar67mopar67 Member Posts: 728
    this year, I'm coming up to your place! Wow, that manual sounds like the stuff! And yes, I have used Haynes before, they're ok, but they only cover the basics and seldom tell you the why behind stuff.
    Bpeebles, may you always be on this forum. I think I can learn a lot from you.
  • ahasherahasher Member Posts: 236
    mopar67, I'm in New Orleans so I believe that makes me a "warm climate" driver, however it has gotten to the 30's once in a while. The rough idle is worse on the cooler days (a clue??) but still happens on warm days. And yes I get the almost stall as it "searches" for it's idle when I first start it in the mornings. I will refr4ence this AIS motor to the service dept when i go in soon.. once I know the TSB number... since i do not plan on sitting around on a work day as they fool around pretending they are looking it up for me. I believe they should have it called up as soon as I come in.
    One last question for you... what i used to refer to as 'curb" idle or as steve234 says "hot" idle is 500 RPM ?? is this correct? That seems low for the V8. My 2000 dash has the hack marks so it appears my idle is 500 or a bit lower when fully warmed up.. although on occasion it appears to hover at 600 or a bit higher (no real rough idle at this RPM). I hope I am not rambling, but with each post I feel I am learning valuable info on my 4.7.. do I get college credit for this?? LOL THANKS for your input!

    Bill
  • mopar67mopar67 Member Posts: 728
    this past weekend. I celbrated my becoming an MCP and lots of frosty libabtions were consumed. Now as for your idle issue....here's how mine works. When COLD and almost all the time druing the winter, in DRIVE it willidle at 600 RPM. Only exception is when the AC is on, and it usually runs to 700-750 RPM. Now during warm months like spring summer and early fall, during warmup, it will stay around 600 RPM. Once up to operating temperature, it will idle @ 600 then drop down to 500-550 in Drive. I notice this after about 15-30 seconds of sitting at a light.
    ANd yes, I agree that 500 seems low for curb idle but recall curb idle is idle in either neutral or park. (If memory serves me correct Mopar always said check curb idle in neutral but that was long ago)
    Refer to BPEEBLES as he has the factory service manual for the dakota. He says its about 3 inches thick and it sounds like it covers all we would need to know.
    I will get that TSB number somehow. I stll cannot believe your dealer is totally dumb on this. Have you talked to another dealer?
    BPEEBLES, any input on this?
  • ibhottubnibhottubn Member Posts: 29
    MY NEW TRUCK WILL BE ARRIVING SOON & I AM LOOKING FOR CLUB SUGGESTIONS ON WHICH AIR INTAKE SYSTEM WORKS BEST WITH THE 4.7 ???

    TOM !!!!!
  • biglucybiglucy Member Posts: 140
    Beach,

    You may want to refer to additional posts about BOB vs other manuals that took place in posts #599-602 of the DODGE DAKOTA QUAD CAB Forum.

    richster supplied the link to order BOB online


    http://www.techauthority.daimlerchrysler.com/

  • steve234steve234 Member Posts: 460
    I have the 4.7 and I fully realize that it uses the PCM for the timing. However, I do not know what it references the timing from. Possibly it uses a proximity sensor on the crank. Whatever the method, there are parts involved that if are not assembled properly, can screw up the timing. It may not be the timing, that is just one suggestion. What I am saying is that I feel the claim of injectors cutting out is bogus and you should make them find the real reason.

    2nddak: You will hear anything if you live long enough. I'm sure some dealer may be able to put a Mercedes V8 in a Dakota, but at what cost? Did the guy tell you about the 120 mpg carburators that the oil companies bought out? Or the vast right wing conspiracy that actually stole the furniture from the White House in the middle of the night? It is scary what some people will believe.
  • biglucybiglucy Member Posts: 140
    For anyone interested, The Techauthority website does not show the service manual listed for the 2001 Dakota. However, I called the phone # on the website and ordered the 2001 Dakota service manual. I was told that this manual covers ALL Dakota models - Quad Cab, 2 Door, Sport, and SLT. bpeebles - Am I ordering the correct manual? Thanks!
  • ahasherahasher Member Posts: 236
    yes, my idle comments are always based on idle in DRIVE (except for the cold start), which makes this shadetree mechanic rethink the "curb" idle check as being in neutral vs drive at operating temp. Anyway, i watch it closely, and the idle fluctuates from below 500 to about 600 in no pattern i can see, weird. If yoi can recall the TSB number, great! but I think have enough info now to go to the dealer (or local rep) to have it researched and performed.
    And congradulations on becoming an MPC (what is that??)

    Bill
  • mopar67mopar67 Member Posts: 728
    BOB. Sounds like I sure do need to get one sooner rather than later. Going to ask my dealer if a freebe is possible. 90 bucks...whew! Steep but probably worth it.
  • mopar67mopar67 Member Posts: 728
    are you saying that there is no ocean front property in IDaho? Damn, I knew it was too good to be true!
    Any old how, one of the many bugs I had was caused by a defective crank sensor. Made my MIL light up for no apparent reason and it would go off when it felt like it. It took three trips to my dealer to gently explain that no, it is not my gas cap or the gas, and please hook up your fancy computer and find the friggin code! Well they deduced that the AIS motor was bad. Got another put it on, and then I had the whistle while you drive thing due to the plunger being 1/32 inch too short. Also had an awful problem with cold starts. Got the correct one and no more MIL.
    Last step in the cold start saga was a flash to the PCM which fixed the stumble/stall on cold starts. I did find out that it was affecting nearly all vehicles with the 4.7 (Jeep and Dakota). no problems starting or running since.
    Now about that 120 MPG carb....I have an old Dodge pickup..........
  • mopar67mopar67 Member Posts: 728
    Microsoft Certified Professional. It means I can break Windoze 98 and fix it on NT and Novell Networks. At least that's what the paper says. Experience in those areas is zero, I am paper certified, no more no less. More I learned about WIN 98 the more I agree with a college prof that liked UNIX. Emailed him the other day and he said ever wonder why most of the web servers run UNIX?
    Now there's a solution. Load UNIX drivaility updates on your PCM and no more problems! JUST KIDDING OTHER FORUM MEMBERS!
  • weebednaweebedna Member Posts: 30
    refer to msg 503, 511...anyone have any info on Cold Air Intakes...thanks
  • ron35ron35 Member Posts: 134
    mmanlove - The dealer who told you your water leaks were due to after market speakers is giving you the runaround. I would ask him to explain how the after market speakers are doing this or better yet go to another dealer who is not looking for an excuse to not fix your truck. I have installed after market speakers both in the front and rear of my 2000 Dak CC and there is not a drop of water coming inside.

    Ron35
  • nakedwoman2nakedwoman2 Member Posts: 2
    I could really use some unbiased input on these 2 vehicles. I am looking at a 2001 Dakota club cab 2 wheel drive with 4.7 eng./ auto/air/ limited slip differential, no other do dads . Opposed to a Totota Tundra 2 wheel drive auto w/V6. Both vechicles would fit my needs for at least the next 10 years. I need to retire my faithful 78 Ford F-150 w/ 275,000 reliable miles due to chronic rust
    deteriotion of the main frame, Wisconsin climate w/ lots of salt on the roads.This truck spoiled me. Can any knowledgeable person give me their comments on which of these 2 vehicles setup as describe be the most reliable for at least 10 years/120,000 miles or if there is a inherent design problem in these vehicles or components. I would appreciate worth while comments rather than brand bashing. Thanks
  • mopar67mopar67 Member Posts: 728
    Still here? Wanted to know how long it took you to get your BOB. I have asked my SA to order one and that was 1 1/2 months ago. Think I oughta just cough up ninety bucks and say to heck with it?
  • davids1davids1 Member Posts: 411
    What in the #$&* is the BOB? I just gotta know.
  • ohc_babyohc_baby Member Posts: 116
    BOB is Big Orange Book. It's also the FSM, or Factory Service Manual. It was once Orange and is now teal, but it seems to forever be the BOB. It's the $100 'you-could-build-a-new-truck-with-this-book' book. It has everything from overhaul procedures to corner-to-corner dimensions, pinouts for each and every connector in the vehicle, full wiring diagrams, and even the location of every spot weld on the body and bed. It's money well-spent.
  • davids1davids1 Member Posts: 411
    I figured it was the service manual, just couldn't put the words together.
  • spike50spike50 Member Posts: 481
    Just somethin' us ol' 00 QC owners came up with.
  • hennehenne Member Posts: 407
    well i have had my new rearend for 2 days now and so far no whines. after 4 rebuilds and this a final all new rearend its now quiet for now. yippiiieeee!!!!!

    i also had the rough idle and cutting out every once and awhile so they did the idle flash tsb and now it idles at about 600 no a/c instead of 500 no a/c. the idle is still about 700 with a/c so no change there so its better overall. i hope all is well with everyone else and ill let everyone know if it starts again.

    the DC rep has been great to me, he even brought up the subject of a buyback because of all the rearend issues i have had and i declined. i like my truck and i am willing to try and make it work right!

    good luck all,

    robert
  • ahasherahasher Member Posts: 236
    I have been needing to get the idle TSB fix! You say it helped... smooth idle in drive after stopping and no problems when starting cold? Do you have the TSB number on your service receipt? Iam still trying to get it for my dealer, who is not much help. Thanks
  • bobs5bobs5 Member Posts: 557
    Glad to hear that your "rear" no longer whines. haha
    So far so good with my truck, no real issues with mine except for one of the windows. The new window regulator is on order, and when that is fixed, I'll be a happy camper.
    So far, the only concernable incident that was experienced was a wierd experience with the engine. It cut out for 1 second and triggered the malfunction indicator light. When this happened, the engine had a erratic idle 400 rpm - 1500 rpm and would cut out at 2500 rpm as if the rev limiter were engaged. I got to work and it sat all day, and when I left work it ran fine. After 4 restarts, the MIF went out. This only happened once and when I brought it to the shop, it was not repeatable.
    Still scratching my head as to what happened that morning though. Possible it was a moisture related problem.
    Overall I really like this truck.

    Which rear end do you have? 3.55 lsd?
  • hennehenne Member Posts: 407
    they didnt list the tsb on the work order they just did it and my rearend was damaged origionally because my dealer in another state said that the truck came from the factory with synthetic fluid in the rearend and i did alot of towing and it tore up the rearend but to answer your question it is a 3.92

    good luck all

    robert
  • bobsyveebobsyvee Member Posts: 63
    The manual says that for towing, synthetic fluid is REQUIRED. You're saying that using the synthetic tore up the diff.
  • hennehenne Member Posts: 407
    no, i read that also and i asked my local dealer at that time if they could change the fluid to synth and he said that the towing package comes wiht synth in it. well it didnt and since i left the regular fluid in it destroyed the insides of the rearend with all the towing i do.

    if you tow use synth

    robert
  • nathan_johnsonnathan_johnson Member Posts: 12
    I'm not sure if this web site has been posted in the past, but it allows you to look up TSB info. The info you get for free is the title of the TSB and the number. For a fee of about $19/year you can get access too more detailed info.


    http://www.alldata.com/recalls/


    Hope this helps some of the people that are having a hard time with their dealers.


    Nathan

  • triple_deke1triple_deke1 Member Posts: 60
    I was reading the manual about the TP. It says that there should be fuses installed in the Power Distribution box on the drivers side engine. I didnt see any fuses in the glove box so I am going to assume the dealer put them in. I do have a connector that looks like its plugeed but is just hanging by the PDB. The book says these relays and fuses are neede to "power up" the package. Other than calling the dealer is there any way I can tell if its "powered up"? Also do I
    need to change the fluid to synthetic or does it come that way with the Tow package?

    TD
  • pinnaclecsipinnaclecsi Member Posts: 6
    I have a '01 QC with the factory towing package, 4.7L, Auto, etc. I recently pulled my boat with my new truck for the first time. The brake lights and turn signals work properly. My running lights do not work at all. Upon further review, I realized that there is no power at the harness for the running lights. Has any one else had this problem? Any suggestions other than the dealer. I would rather pay someone or fix it myself than have to wait days without my truck for local dealers.
  • spike50spike50 Member Posts: 481
    After a few months, I added towing capability to my QC. The store-bought harness fit well and no problem with the turning signals or stop lights during daylight. Everything went wrong when I turned on the truck's parking lights or headlights. Then all of the trailer lights would blink or shut off with the application of brakes or turn signals. Fixed it all by running the harness's ground wire right to the truck frame. Maybe that's the problem.
  • taki3taki3 Member Posts: 18
    anybody ever have any problems with oil leaking towards the rear of a3.9L v6 engine? its not a lot of oil, but from what i can tell from the underside of the truck, the entire end of the engine has a oily coating on it...if i put my hand on the engine around and behind the distributor cap theres oil there too....it drips about 1 drop a week, but i want to have this truck a while, and oil on the engine worries me....the oil is also evident between the oil pan and the clutch - with oil dripping from the bellhousing....ive kept the truck in decent shape, changed the oils on schedule....and ive never had to add oil between changes....

    pretty vague description, but any ideas?
  • tuvtesttuvtest Member Posts: 237
    My guess would be the oil pressure sending unit is leaking. This switch is located on the top of the block, directly behind the distributor. This oil passage is fed directly from the oil pump and is under high pressure. It is a easy fix if you have any mechanical abilities at all. you can get a new sending unit from any reputible auto parts store. My personal preferance is NAPA. I've had a fair amount of experience with Chysler small blocks ( the 3.9 is based off the 318/5.2L) and from your description this is the most likely culprit.
  • taki3taki3 Member Posts: 18
    tuvtest - Thanks for the info on the oil pressure sending unit - i havent replaced it yet, but i have another question....i have an oil pressure gage in my dakota (i think all do), and im wondering about how its supposed to work - when i am idling, the gage reads low pressure.....and when im highway driving, it reads hi pressure - not excessive, but its up there....is this the "proper" way for the oil pressure gage to work? this is the first vehicle that ive owned, so i dont have any experience with how oil pressure gages should read....if this is not how it works, then - its been broke (and possibly leaking) since i bought the truck in november 1996!
  • bobs5bobs5 Member Posts: 557
    My oil pressure gauge works the same.
    1/2 point at idle, 3/4 point during driving.
  • steve234steve234 Member Posts: 460
    The oil pump operates off the drive train. As the RPMs go up, the pump will increase output, causing the pressure to rise. The pressure indicator has a small diaphragm in it that moves as the pressure increases. This will either activate a switch(idiot lights) or send a variable signal to the gauges. As long as it is above the normal marks at idle, it is fine. Sometimes high mileage vehicles will start to read low and drivers think the oil pump is going out. These sensors can get clogged with sludge over time and only cost $10-15.
  • tuvtesttuvtest Member Posts: 237
    well Steve beat me to it. good explaination. When dealing with real gauges, with number and everything, (ie mechanical, racing gauges) a good rule of thumb is 10 psi per 1000 rpm. So you can get an idea of how the incrase happens as you drive. The factory electrical gauges are obviously not all that accurate but better than an idiot light. One thing to keep in mind which I forgot to mention in my first post is: DO NOT use any thread sealent like teflon tape on the sending unit when installing. Many people , especially those used to working with house style piping, think that the threads need sealent to lessen the chance of leaks. In reality, what often happens is the teflon tape shreads and can plug the sending unit again, or worse travel through the oil passeges and deposit themselves on some important bearing surfaces...this is a bad thing.
  • steve234steve234 Member Posts: 460
    The ones that I have seen lately (just put one on my 91 F150)already have thread sealant on them. It is probably a variant of Lock-Tite and is placed a 1/4 inch above the base of the treads.
  • ahasherahasher Member Posts: 236
    An update on my quest to resolve this issue. A refresher: 4.7 auto cold start rough idle where it almost stalls. Then stopping (in gear, say after highway speed) when warm.. rough idle (almost stalls on occasion). Smooth otherwise.
    DEALER says he knows nothing about any upgrades to PCM or other. I called DC customer service.. gave me the SAME line.. and to wait another MONTH to see if anything is sent out. I WAIT.. and experience it every day while I am told to basically live with it! For my $23000 + i get to "live with it"... there has to be a better solution...
    I love this truck and an otherwise very happy... I simply believe i have a dealer who is less than worried about my issues, even with multiple calls to get service.
    I apologize in advance for this long "venting" but this forum has several members who offer excellent advice.. which I seem to need.
    Bill
  • bookittybookitty Member Posts: 1,303
    Bill, try to get a TSB number from D/C, and then research it on the Internet so that you can hand it to the service "mangler" (manager) and tell him how embarrassing it must be for him when others know more about his job then he does.

    Bookitty
  • ahasherahasher Member Posts: 236
    Boo,
    You are right, if I had the right TSB refrence, I would be at the dealer tomorrow, however a call to DC customer service yeilded nothing. The guy said he only sees a TSB for "... improve performance..." but nothing for idle or cold start. In other words he said he cannot give me a refrence to my symptoms and a TSB or PCM upgrade. I am still hoping someone who has had these symptoms and gotten a flash give me a TSB number or PCM program date to go by (henne from post 527??)
    Again,
    I appreciate the help
  • hennehenne Member Posts: 407
    i do not know the tsb number for the update. they didnt put it on the invoice but the truck now idles at 600 instead of 500, its still kinda jerky if you pay attention but not as bad as it was.

    well the whine is still there at 70-80 and is coming back again at 35-45 after 5 times in the shop including a new rearend. i wonder if they are chasing the wrong problem. i remember reading somewhere the driveshaft caused some whinning by someone, anybody know who or remember that? also wonder if when my rearend started grinding origianally i had the dealer flush my tranny, when i got the truck back thats when it was whinning, anybody think it could be the tranny and it has something to do with the fluid?

    any ideas greatly appreciated.

    robert
  • stnickstnick Member Posts: 177
    My 00 QC is in now for rear end whine. I sure hope I don't have to go through what you are. I get it back tomorrow so we'll see. Service says was due to improper factory assembly. They are replacing ring, pinion, and all bearings. Other than this problem I have enjoyed 9200 trouble free miles so far. Will post results after test drive tomorrow. Stick.
  • pomycpomyc Member Posts: 28
    I too have experienced a whine originating from the rear around 50-55 mph. Dealership said, not really a "concern." Lately, especially in the colder weather, I have noticed a "cluck" when rolling to a stop. Has anybody else experienced the same thing? I have nearly 22K on my 2K 4.7L/Auto/4x4/SLT and have yet to experience any major problems (knock on wood). I love this truck. Input is appreciated.
  • supra75supra75 Member Posts: 2
    I had written a while ago about the rear in my 2000 club cab.It has the v6 and automatic tranny.I had the rear rebuilt once and then it was replaced the second time I had brought it in.I brought it back a third time,because it was making the same noise although not as loud but they said Dodge was using heavier gears in their rears.My friend heard the noise,it occurs between 45-55,and he said it might be tire noise.I'm not sure what it is.All I know is it occurs when I take my foot off the throttle and coast between 45-55.About the clunk,once in a when coming to a stop I'll hear it but not too often.The truck has 10900 right now and overall is a great truck.
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