Dodge Dakota - Quad Cab

bookitty · April 2002

Nick, you are right on the money. However, most Neons are transported on or in coal cars. It is a result of a D/C accounting department saving suggestion. The coal dust is brushed off of the vehicle at the dealership and used to stuff the seats. Rick, please ease yourself into the seat in order not to create a dusty interior.

Bookitty

tuvtest · April 2002

And no smoking, otherwise with all that coal dust, there'll be some serious glowing going on!

iowabigguy · April 2002

Does that mean I can't consume copious quantities of baked beans prior to driving??? Probably rules out beer and hard boiled eggs too!Must be why the Neon is My wifes and I get the Quad! coal dust!!!!

Speaking of Quads I was talking to my dealers guy that orders the vehicles yesterday. He says that the Durango is going to change but the Dakota will continue on. You don't know who is really right about the Dakota's future but logically it would be giving up a whole market segment. Then again GM did that with the full size rear wheel drive Impala. Gave away the taxicab, police car and snowbird market to Ford.
I don't want the Dakota to go away! I want a 2 wheel drive Quad Cab R/T with a 5.7 Hemi and a 6 speed. I want to kick Ford Lightning and Dodge SRT-10 butt. Rick

eagleeye13 · April 2002

Received my special ordered '02 Quad SLT+, with 4.7L, 5spd,3.55LSD, 4X2,hndling pkg ( comes w/flares now),hvy dty serv, towing pkg, RAZ stereo w/Infinity sound,pwr overhd conv,rr wndw def, ordered ARE tonneau ( thanks Bookitty), ended up trading in my '98 dak club cab, used trucks aren't selling in San Diego right now.The dealer has it for $14,999.00 and I was asking $10,500.00 before trading it in, but got the new one with $2,000 rebate on top of $200 over dealer inv. looking to add nerf bars probably smittybuilt stainless steel.
picked up 04/09/02 now have almost 700mi, so far gas mi is 16-18 combo ( mainly freeway 65%) real happy so far but I was happy with '98, just needed the extra room and door's. A friend at work bought the Tacoma 4 door and he has 4,000 mi and averaging 15-16 mi/gal, so naturally I tell him He could have had a V-8 !!!! LOL
The only problem so far is 2 bad spots in ext body paint, 1 on drivers door, 1 on rr pass door. appointment Monday to get fixed.
sorry for the long post, been having too much fun driving, keep the good info coming.

Lee

bookitty · April 2002

Lee, sounds like a great truck, but you did not mention the paint color. Good luck with your well equipped mount, and I am certain that you will like the A.R.E. tonneau.

Bookitty

joehoe · April 2002

Appreciate the forum - Long Time Lurker...

The following link reinforces most of the latest (and most logical) rumors of the anticipated redesign.

http://www.car-truck.com/chryed/buzz/b040202.htm

I held off selling my '93 CC for many reasons. Mainly because it has been so reliable! I bought it new back in Oct. '92. - when the Gen II body style was introduced.

Oldest son will start 1st grade this year - frees up a monthly truck pmt that was paying for his preschool.

So I pretty much have all my options in mind for the new '03 QC - still debating the color...

Really have enjoyed the Flame Red - wife also has a Flame Red Durango

But that deep Navy blue is very appealing.

Maybe it's for the better that DC isn't drastically changing the Dakota again so soon. They get too many new things going on - they are likely to lose something in the chaos.

Another thing - I bought a new home with a 3-car garage - The Dakota CC (or QC - same wheelbase) fit perfectly lengthwise - front to back - with enough room to open the tailgate and unload cargo (well - groceries... most of the time.)

Be Real - Drive a Dakota

eagleeye13 · April 2002

Color is White, I still need to post pic's of old and new dak's.
will do this after new one is dressed properly !! with all the goodies. Will be adding K&N drop-in and 3" dynamax cat back. also going to do the intake mod with either abs or stainless steel tubing. Bed liner is going to be Line-X over rail, '98 dak had Arma over rail, was very happy with Arma but no dealers in San Diego area now, so would have to travel to LA area,Line-X looks very similar so decided to go that route. Also going with after market side mldg. had the after market on "98 and it worked great plus was the entire side of truck front to rear,not like factory that mainly deals with the doors. Well here I go rambling again. Talk to everyone later.

Lee

bookitty · April 2002

Lee, since you are contemplating installing an A.R.E. tonneau, check with the dealer as to whether the lid can be installed with an over the rail spray liner. I have a drop in, and my A.R.E. provider recommended only an under the rail unit. Boy, you are doing a bunch of stuff!

Bookitty

cetris · April 2002

jebsdaddy,

I have a 2000 QC 4.7/ Auto. I have noticed the same hump under carpet- roughly where the clutch pedal would be (if I had one). Dealer claims it is normal. It almost felt to me like the padding was wadded up under there or something.

eagleeye13 · April 2002

I've talked to the line-x dealer and I'm waiting for the ARE first and then going to check on how to do the line-x. The spray on is only about an 1/8" thick so hopefully it will work. I had the Arma coating over rail on the'98 and it saved the top of the rail a few times. I've already had plywood in the back and broke the bed in with some rub/scratch marks. Thank's for the warning though on if the over rail will work with the ARE cover. I had the Arma done before the tonneau on '98 and didn't get the coating far enough down the outside so the seal on the Gaylord was riding against the paint ****. As for what I'm doing to the Quad except for the intake mod it will be the same as my '98 was equipped.

Thanks for your input always greatly appreciated

Lee

blakdak · April 2002

Lee, I have the A.R.E. tonneau with over the rail Line-X and have had no problems. The A.R.E. installer use a double layer of foam tape and six (6) clamps. Four clamps would have worked but I wanted to use the extra clamps as tie-down points (works good). Hope this helps.

eagleeye13 · April 2002

Thank's for the info, this is one of the reasons I'm waiting to do the line-x until after I get the ARE installed, then after checking how everything lines up will dictate how the line-x will be accomplished.

This is a great info "line"

Lee

bookitty · April 2002

Lee, if you install the A.R.E. first, you must remove and then re-install the lid. blakdak claims that the tonneau may be installed over the spray in lining. My liner was a drop in, and the dealer said that they often shifted when attempting to install the lid. Makes sense. I am reasonably certain that the A.R.E. dealer or Line-X person can help you with advice to prevent the extra work.

Bookitty

eagleeye13 · April 2002

Thank you both for the great info. I figure on watching them install the A.R.E. and talking to them about adjustment requirements after spay-on application, and will post results so others will have an idea of what they are dealing with. I've been in the Aircraft repair/ manufacturing field as a structural repair, assembly and now as an Inspector(23yrs total), so I'm pretty good at getting things to fit and work properly. That's one of the great things about these sites the wide range of knowledge and experience of it's members is fabulous. I've also spent time in the automotive service (mechanical) and parts departments.

thank's again for the info and "Keep on Quad-in"

Lee

quark99 · April 2002

I'm back...and you gotta be old to remember me..(see posts 0-50). I'm considering buying my 2nd Quad, and wondered what, if anything I should know from you recent owners. My old Quad was a 2000 Pat Blue 4.7L Auto 2wd 3:55 HD T/H Group, Tow, SLT Plus.....but had to sell when mama got her Mustang GT and my quad was destined to see 35,000-40,000 miles per year if I kept it. Traded it in for a Sentra (great car), but now we're buying a boat, and.....Anyway, I'm thinking Atlantic Pearl and buckets up front, but all else will mirror my 2000. Can anyone quote the actual tow capacity of a Quad with 4.7L, multi-speed auto, and 3:55? I can't find my old window sticker, memory says 4500 lbs..Dodge brochure is useless. I'm sure it's higher with the 3:92 rear.
Hi Bookitty...thanks any and all.

tegwj · April 2002

I don't have a clinical answer but anecdotal stuff can help. I've towed my racecar (~4000lbs w/trailer) and somebody else's boat (~4500lbs) with my 4.7 auto 3.55 2wd QC without any difficulty. My trailer has electric brakes, the boat had surge brakes. Electrics felt better. I don't bother locking out OD and have never seen any temperature gauges show a reading other than what i get normally around town, even going uphill w/AC.

twj

sunburn · April 2002

quark99, if I remember correctly, the 4.7/auto/3.55/4x4 has about a 4800 lb tow rating for the QC. The 3.92 is about 5800 lbs. I don't remember the 4x2, but it seemed like they were 200-300 lbs higher.

bookitty · April 2002

Skip, with the 4.7 and the 3.55 the maximum GCWR is 9,200# for the 3.55 and 10,500# for the 3.92. The "payload" with standard equipment and an empty bed is 3,250# for standard, to 6,350# maximum. These are combined trailer weight allowances. The 4X4 is slightly less (the weight of the other drive axle and drop box are factored in to that. You should be right in the ball park. Good luck with your new Quad. Good to hear from you.

Bookitty

snowbirdjoe · May 2002

been following along w/ you all for a while but never posted before. i've got an 02' QC sport 4.7L 4x4 5-speed, 3.92LSD. bought 11/13/01. currently 4,500 miles. has a clunking somewhere in driveline? dealer says normal rear axle slap?? no service needed. it sounds like dropping a nut in a metal bucket when both depressing and releasing clutch i think? seems like i can drive easy and minimize it but, if i drive normal its more consistent and noticable. i'm not sure if i'm being to picky 'bout my new baby! now its also developed a squeek or whine when pressing clutch. dealer says it needs a new clutch master cylinder. had to order it so now i have to take it back again. any one have thoghts on the clunking? i'm not convinced its the differential. sounds like it could also be the trans or drive shaft? any relation in squeeky clutch cylinder and clunking noise? guess i'll let them do clutch cylndr and just see if clunking clears up or not and go from there.

jebsdaddy · May 2002

I have a 2001 Dakota equipped just like your drive train and it is very smooth with no clunks.

ford_bii · May 2002

My 5-speed clunks too. You can avoid the clunking if you are *perfect* on your upshifts, but it is nearly impossible to get rid of it during downshifts. I just hope it holds together.

eagleeye13 · May 2002

Got my Quad out of the body shop yesterday, they did a good job on the drivers door, but the rear rht pass door is passable !! Most people don't see the blemish so instead of risking "bondo" application I decided to leave it as is. Going to put the 3 pc bug defectors on this week end and hopefully the Smittybilt side bars. Smittybilt forgot page 1 of installation instructions. I e-mailed them thru their web site so hopefully they will e-mail the pg 1. The A.R.E Tonneau is supposed to be in next week. Had the after market side mldg installed tonight $80.00 covers from the front edge of front door's to the back "cap" of bed. Feel better now about parking in parking lots, my wife still laughs at me about my parking habits, then I remind her that the '98 didn't have any door dings when we traded it in, so I'll keep my funny habits. She doesn't mind when it's her car !!!!!

Well over 1,000 mi's and all's well. Still averaging 16-18 mpg. Can't wait to get the dynamax catback and K&N filter see what happens, on '98 with 5.2L 19-20mpg at 65-70mph on open road. Quad rides great even the wife has noticed the difference from '98 CC.

Have a great weekend to all !!!
Lee

maxwelwp · May 2002

I recently noticed that when I start my truck for the trip home after work, the engine falter, almost to the point of quitting after I start it and the first time I put it in reverse. Never happens in the morning or any other time. Also just started during the spring around 60-70 degrees in MN now. Anyone else experience this or have any suggestions as to cause?

henne · May 2002

I have that same problem. Had it with my 2000 4.7 auto and I have it much worse with my 2001 4.7 auto. Mine will acually stall when at a red light and when pulling out into traffic (can we say accident.) It does this a few times a week. It is going into the shop again for this and a increasing amount of pinging that has gotten so bad that i hate going up hill and cant tow anything because it sounds like the engine is gonna jump out from under the hood.

Good luck and wish me luck.

Robert

mopar67 · May 2002

There is a TSB which addresses just that issue. Stalling on cold starts, occasional stalls while warm. It involves a flash update to the PCM. After I had mine done, no more 500 RPM near stalls nor did it stall out on a cold start like it did before.
This TSB had no effect on spark knock as I always had a little before and after the flash. But the knock was oh so slight (in light of the other problems I had, I learned to let this one go)

Let me know if you need the specific TSB....ahasher can also vouch for this same issue.

henne · May 2002

I had that tsb done on mine about a month or so ago. No difference at all. I did however go to the dealer today to schedule my appointment on Tuesday and he gave me a can of B&G injection and combustion manifold cleaner (not actual name but the B&G part is right

). I put it in the tank put about 4 dollars worth of fuel in and it brought me up to half a tank and after about 20 or so miles it has helped tremendously. I will still have them clean the combustion chamber and take care of the little odds and ends.

Good luck,

Robert

henne · May 2002

Oh Yea, My 4.7 auto has 15,000 miles. Kind of early don't you think, to have fouled combustion chamber.

Robert

decentman4you · May 2002

ATF Fluid does it ever wear out? or that is if I dont drive my Dac too much should I change it more often presently 14K-miles 01 4x4 4.7 auto.. I asked the Service manager ( of the trans oil change an 'he' said wait till 20K ) when I was there at the dealership cause the bleeping! "check-engine Idiot light" came on and i spent the better part of the day to simply find out according to them that the gas cap was on too loose. I dont believe that... & Nerf bars or running boards ? which are better i want to Simply Avoid getting Door dings and i understand that they "bars" stick out further is this true? that when somebodys else's door opens that they will HIT the nerb bar?

Then simply what brand or where to get them, Dealer or aftermarket?

snowbirdjoe · May 2002

hey all- i posted bout that clunking/ axle slap noise on my 02' QC 4x4 4.7L 5-sp 3.92LSD. i got one yes and 1 no! any one else know what this and what to do. i know how to drive/shift and its really pissing me off every time it clunks!!!

ferous · May 2002

I have the 4.7 5spd with the 3.55lsd and it's as smooth as the driver. Smooth for me, rough for my wife. Keeps her driving her GC instead of the QC.

dodgetrukn · May 2002

Snowbirdjoe, my '01 quad, 4.7L, 3.92 lsd, 5speed is very smooth...no clunking..I drive it
like I drove any other car/truck..with authority!..
My 98 extended cab dakota with the 318 v-8 3.55 rear-five speed used to clunk a bit..always
had to bring up the rpms to get the smooth shift..Got used to that.Seemed that the gear ratio was a little too low in first-second gears..my 98 "rest in peace(s)" is in dakota heaven..totalled.
Experience with my 98 convinced me to go with the 3.92 Quad for '01, also needed more room for 2 young adult kids, , .plus a little towing, and off the line grunt! Dodgetrukn.

bookitty · May 2002

Joe, my 2000 Quad 4X4, 3.55 LSD 5 speed does not clunk unless I go too slow in too high of a gear. This may cause some clunking and bucking, but it would be the driver and not the truck.

Bookitty

gtownguy · May 2002

I have an 01 QC sport. I put on the Wetin nerf bars-black and they DO NOT stick out far enough to block a door from hiting the side of your truck. There may be some other brands that do, however, I know for a fact mine don't. I'm kinda split on whether I like them or not because also my foot misses them to step out and the back of my left calf is always rubbing up against it. I recently had a close call with a ding and decided to get the body-side molding that used to be standard on the SLT model. After a little research, the Dealer wanted $260.00 for the molding, Auto-extra.com (a place you can never call) sells an aftermarket close match (trim-gard) for aprrox $120.00 with shipping, and approx. $40.00 with shipping for a 20 ft roll. (however, i did find a dealer on the net willing to sell the mopar ones for $160.00 +shipping) Anyways, I decided to go cheap and got the Trim-gard aftermarket close match one. Except I got the 20 ft roll for $28.00 including shipping across the U.S.. Its the same stuff without the finished rounded ends (molded). I simply worked the ends on my grinder after tracing them and rounded them myself. Not perfect, but I'm very picky. 5+ ft away you can't tell they are not factory... so far happy...why not try it for $28.00???? Sorry for the ranting and long post,, Happy Quadding!!!!
Thanks, Tom.

slr9589 · May 2002

Hey...my oo,4.7,5 spd no clunk,no bump,no stall,still brakes,and i still love it.
hate to think the line will be ended in 03/04 new models.off to automotive history with the toyota t100.
slr9589

joehoe · May 2002

Unless something drastic happens - Dakotas will keep rolling off the line unchanged - at least for the next few years.

My understanding was that the scheduled "re-design" was abandoned for a number of reasons.

Who was it that said. "If it ain't broke, Don't fix it" ?

Joemama

eagleeye13 · May 2002

ref. post 4073, I installed the Smittybilt nerf bars Sunday/Monday !! Their web site says no drilling LOL ! You need to drill a 3/8" dia hole common to each mtg brkt, so 4 holes total. Had to get a 12" long drill bit to get the holes in, not going to be an easy thing for the avg person. My suggestion for anyone else if you don't have access to a right angle drill motor or a long drill bit have the bars installed. My .02 cents.

These bars don't stick out far enough to protect the doors. I suggest anyone worried about door dings on the side of their trucks to add body side mldg. I had after market done (1/2" x 1/2")
and had great success on my '98 Dak CC.
Nerf bar installation took 1hr ( sorry guy's I'm not a Beer drinker) water and 1 soda !!!! Actual installation time counting chasing a drill bit down at work about 2 hr's.

Have a great day everyone !
Lee

kjcdr1 · May 2002

Just catching up so sorry for the delay in responding to your query. I had running boards installed on my '01 Q/C silver sport. They are over 5 inches wide and extend about 2 inches outside the widest part of the doors. I believe they will provide some help in preventing parking lot door dings, but I still am careful about where I park.

I can't recall the brand as they were ordered and installed by a local dealer in truck accessories. These boards are fiberglass with steel reinforcement. They were painted to match the truck color before installation. The boards do make entry easier, but I sometimes have the same problem as gtownguy when exiting--it easy to step directly to the ground and rub your calf on the board. The only problem I have with this is using the trouser leg to clean the running board if it happens to be unwashed.

Although the running boards may help to save your doors, they also are subject to scratches because of normal use. However, after a year of use, mine have only one or two minor scratches and I can live with that.

Good luck with your decision on how to prevent parking lot rash on you Q/C.

Ken

bookitty · May 2002

Ken, I have always stayed away from running boards. because in deep snow they tend to act like skis, and the next thing you realize, is that the tires are not making contact with the surface. I know you get snow in Mountoursville (my bride is from Sunbury) and was wondering if you have encountered this phenomenon? I have seen it happen quite often when traveling New England.

Bookitty

kjcdr1 · May 2002

We do have snow in Central PA, but had only 2 this past winter. The deepest got to be about 10 inches and the running boards are at 14 inches so I have no experience in snow deep enough to make skis of the running boards.

That 10 inch snow did prove that our Toyota Camry could not make it up a fairly steep 300 yard hill that leads to our street. Left the Camry parked with my wife in charge while I went home for the 4x4 Quad. It went thru about 8 inches of snow and climbed right back up the hill with no problem.

I think any time I am faced with more than 14 inches of snow I will be staying inside waiting for the snow plow.

Best regards to all. Ken

amend1 · May 2002

For anyone interested in aftermarket exhaust, over the weekend I installed the MBRP, dual, rear exit, stainless, cat back exhaust. (2000 Quad Cab, 4.7L, 4X4, auto) It was pretty straight forward but the directions were not too swift. Also, some of the systems will not install with the 31" tires and/or a trailer hitch. I have both and it was only necessary to fabricate a simple hanger at the rear for the tailpipes. We used the strapping from a universal pipe hanger and drilled a hole in the side of the hitch mount. It looks great and sounds ever better!!

cyberdad2 · May 2002

Whew! Its been exactly 2 years since I started my hunt for a vehicle to replace an 88 Corsica (203K).

We put off purchasing while my smart wife went back to school full-time to get a masters degree.

As I have been picking up the slack with house chores and the 3 yr old, I haven't been keeping up with the goings-on here...

We'll need to by a used QC. Could someone share their opinion as to whether the 2001/2 models have improved much over the 2000 - or is the model year I was originally looking at (2000) a good used purchase?

Thanks for your input. Its GREAT to be back!!!

Cyberdad Steve

iowabigguy · May 2002

I have a 2000 Quad. I have heard that with the re designed dashboard in the 2001+ that there have been complaints of poor ventilation/air flow. I would avoid the 3.9 v6 and go with the 4.7 v8. The 5 speed is the preferred choice (minimal complaints) in transmissions if you enjoy driving one and can find a used Quad with a 5 speed. Rick

steve234 · May 2002

i drive a 2000 and 2001 Dakota and personnally prefer the 2001 dash. The AC vents are not as even as the 2000, but they can be adjusted to suite. They are better at getting AC to back seat.

jebsdaddy · May 2002

Does anyone have a source on a repair manual such as haynes or chilton for the 2001 dodge dakota? I have the factory manual but wish to have this too. thanks

tegwj · May 2002

Folks --

I'm toying with the idea of removing the pickup bed from my QC and building something with more organized storage on it -- lockable drawers, cabinets, etc. I've seen plenty of full-size trucks with configurations like this but so far am coming up short on my research regarding how to do it for the QC.

Step 1 seems to be how to remove the pickup bed -- I went to Pep Boys looking for a Dakota service manual but they didn't have one. Is it just bolted on? I know I'll have to disengage the fuel filler and the electrics for the lights. Any idea what the bed will weigh?

My basic usage is as a track support rig for my weekend racing activities. I don't have an enclosed trailer so lockable storage on the truck would be very useful.

twj

ferous · May 2002

Why don't you buy a cap for the bed, and install a pull out rack system? These pull out rack systems are great. I've seen several builders use them and I think it would work for what you are looking for.

tazkota · May 2002

Hey All!!! Just bought an '02 QC SLT 4x4, 4.7, HD, Tow, Rhino Spray-In, Garnet Red (Cooler than I thought). Thanks to this site and all of you, I knew what to expect for price and potential probs. I've been following the discussion off/on since Nov. Funny part is my 'Kota is the "small" Dodge in the family. My wife has a '99 3/4 ton diesel she use to haul her horses around Colorado. (We're about 35 mi SE of Denver). Love the 'Kota though.

Greg

jebsdaddy · May 2002

Here are my two cents worth regarding the bed removal (This is from a good ole boy, mechanical engineer, dakota owner and shade tree mechanic)

DON'T DO IT!

I would put the money you would spend on modifying the dakota and buy a special use trailer. Then you would have the perfectly good truck and the trailer dedicated to the task at hand. If you modify the truck, it would probably turn out being a compromise at best and the re-sell value of the truck would take a nose dive. The truck would then be good at one thing rather than many.

Good Luck (Get a trailer)

bookitty · May 2002

Greg, good luck with your new Quad, and welcome. The Garnet Red is indeed a rich looking color. It was one of my initial choices, but as I am married to the "Color Queen," I had no choices. My wife chose Amber Fire and actually I really like it.

Bookitty

ferous · May 2002

I'm just guessing here, but I think Toby is already pulling his race car on a trailer, so another trailer isn't going to work.
It was a good idea. That's what we are all here for.

Dodge Dakota - Quad Cab

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