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Dodge Dakota - Quad Cab
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Comments
I still feel the warped PowerSlot rotors but its small. It's interesting to me that the significant brake dust problem I had with the OEM rotors and pads has not returned although I'm back to using the very same pads I removed. 90% of the past dirt problem must have been from the OEM rotors.
Ron
Anyways I was wondering if anybody could help with this question. I've always seen this but never thought to address it. In my front wheel wells I can see the brake lines and into the side of my engine. It seems to be lacking "mud" skirts that my other trucks have had. There are a couple of holes there? Are these to hang some type of plastic sheild?? If so, was this part of another package? possibly SLT? or was this cheapening after the 2000 model year?. Does anyone have part #'s?? Any help or input would be appreciated.
Thanks, Tom.
A curtain wouldn't be hard to make.
Regards,
Dusty
Regards,
Dusty
Ron
Bests,
Dusty
Thanks for the recommendation guys!
"QUAD CAB."
Bookitty
Dusty- I know what the hood insulation is, but what is the front box gasket? Is it needed? Does it provide a function? thanks. (also how much was the hood pad and box gasket?)
Happy New year to All
Tom.
The cargo box seal (box gasket) is a weatherstrip that attaches to the bottom of the cargo box front bulkhead. This strip closes the gap between the front of the box and the rear of the cab. Its primary purpose is to reduce road noise that gets into the cab through the rear cab vents. It was an SLT item only on older Dakotas.
I cannot find the invoice at the moment, but the hood pad was around $70, I think. The box seal was around $24, if I remember correctly. Your prices may be slightly higher. My dealer gives me a discount on over-the-counter parts.
Bests,
Dusty
used the trustworthy blue masking tape and sealed just about everything all around the windshield. Thru a process of elimination I have found the area where the wind noise comes from. Rubber gasket on top and sides. With making tape on gasket to glass not gasket to body, the noise completly disappears. Does anybody know of a service bulletin on this issue. I still have an open RO at the dealer for repair of several warranty items that the dealer rep is working on. The wind noise is an item on the list. Before my discovery, the dealer heard the wind noise but found nothing...surprise...surprise.
Any TSB info you can share with me will be appreciated
Allen
Very interesting discovery by process of elimination on your part...Good work.
I've always wondered why (starting in 2002 and later models) the long piece of rubber moulding between the top of the windshield glass and the body was eliminated. Perhaps, that's the reason? Now, after a rainfall, I notice the water just sits along the edge of the gap. I sure hope a rust problem does not eventually develop because of this change.
Regarding a TSB, I haven't come across one on this subject as yet.
dataguru
I would suspect an air leak. Unfortunately, the fix is likely to be in the form of adding sealing material around the windshield. If you can't locate a generalized area you will have to remove the entire gasket and run a bead of material. Not a nice job and not one I would recommend someone tackling if you've never done it before.
I'd work with your dealer. The problem is going to be that the job done there is not one that a lot of service managers will want to take on if they don't believe they have the talent in the shop to do it correctly. Some dealers send all of that kind of work out to a glass shop.
Good luck.
Dusty
Considering the prices quoted in the literature I have received from D/C, I have about decided that the money would be better put aside for correcting any future problems. The full package for 4years/50K miles is about $1300. Going to 7years and 75K is about twice that much.
I have not posted for quite some time, but from my experience over the past 3 years, I know there will be someone in this group with good answers to my question. That question is: Has anyone with the higher mileages found a benefit from having an extended warranty? Or perhaps was there someone who did not have an extended warranty, but had a problem which could have been corrected under extended warranty if you had one? The cost of correcting any problems you may have encountered would be very helpful.
It is decision time for me so any input from your experiences would be appreciated.
Thanks. Ken
Can't help much with experiance with this, but here are my thoughts. I too have a low mileage truck and plan on keeping it for 7-8 years. I did get an extended warrenty (not from D/C), For the price, I figured that the first time I have a transmission problem it will pay for itself. I figure because I will own the truck for 7-8 years I will recoup my investment and then some from the warrenty. But I got a 100K, 8 years, $0 deduct. for around $1300.
Again your assistance is appreciated. Ken
Ron
If you stop and think about it, these companies are in business to make money. They are selling you a warranty, and in essence betting you are NOT going to need repairs totaling the amount you paid for the warranty within the given warranty period. This means that YOU are betting that your car IS going to require more than the cost of the warranty in repairs over the term of the warranty, or else you would not be buying it.
The question really boils down to: is your vehicle going to need 1-2k worth of repairs that are not normal wear and tear in the next 4,5,6,7,etc years? I feel the odds are against that. Sure, some vehicles will require that amount, but statistically your chances are low of that happening. How many people do you know that have a car that is 3-10 years old and have needed an entirely new transmission or engine?
Remember too, that normal wear and tear items are not covered by these warranties, and certain items that were covered by the original 3 year bumper to bumper may not be covered, making them less appealing.
My advice would be to take the amount you want to spend on an extended warranty, and put it in a money market account, and draw on it for only repair costs that would have been covered under the warranty. (No clutches, brakes, shocks, etc) I would bet that at the end of the warranty term you will still have some money left in that account.
And you would get some interest, at least.
Best regards,
Dusty
After 10-15 years of this, there is easilly enough to pay cash for the next vehicle and have some left over for self-warantee.
I started doing this with a $500 vehicle years ago and have worked my way up to purchasing new. The only exception has been when the low financing caculates out to be a better deal than paying cash.
I am also in complete agreement with bpeebles and ferous with regard to saving regularly before purchasing a vehicle and making it a cash deal. The interest saved can be used for those unexpected repair problems. The four vehicles I purchased new since 1987 were: '87 Pontiac Catalina, '90 Mitsubishi Montero, '99 Toyota Camry, and '01 Dakota Q/C. All were purchased by saving beforehand and paying cash.
Having the cash and now with the internet to check prices of the vehicle and all options, the buyer is in a better position to get a reasonable deal.
Again, thanks everyone and best regards. Ken
It would be nice to separate feuding children by moving one to the passenger seat. Unfortunately strapping one to the roof isn't socially acceptable anymore and I never seem to have a roll of duct tape around....
Bookitty
Thanks for any advise.
John
Bookitty
I recently purchased the Edelbrock IAS shocks and do not like the ride. The suspension is too stiff. I did not dyno test them before I put them on but the "hand" dyno tested them as higher low speed compression and at least equal rebound. If I could lower the spring rate (smaller diameter front torsion bar, one less rear leaf spring, or maybe less anti roll bar diameter) it may be ok. Since the ride was "decent" before I put them on, I have to say it is the shocks. I would like a softer ride. The shocks now have about 200 miles on them and I would be willing to sell them. Let me know if anyone is interested.
I've only had the Yoko's since August, but I was surprised by how quiet they are. I think they're the quietest tire I've ever experienced. Winter traction has only been average though. Better than the Goodyears that came on the truck, but not as good as the Coopers that the Yoko's replaced. Did I mention they're quiet?
Bookitty
Glad to hear about your experience with the Edelbrock IAS shocks. My '01 2wd quad shakes
after hitting bumps in the road. Seems to have
gotten worse? But that could be me?
I was thinking about new shocks (IAS) ones?
But now will wait and see?
mm
Installing the Edelbrock Performer IAS shocks totally remidied the sideways leaping. I am now able to ACCELLERATE over expansion joints and the rear wheels stay glued to the pavement. (Before the Edelbrock Performer IAS shocks, the rear tires would lose traction and start spinning or jumping around)
The Edelbrock Performer IAS shocks also reduced nosedive when braking and lean while turning. Most folks have only praise for the Edelbrock Performer IAS shocks.
I wonder if the folks that dislike the Edelbrock Performer IAS shocks have tried different tire pressures? Just a few PSI somtimes makes a big difference.
I put the Yokohama Geolander AT's on my truck at the beginning of winter. The original RTS's still had about 15K wear left on them but at 44K, they were starting to hydroplane in rain and I didn't want to do another Buffalo winter with them. I got the Yoko's at tire rack and from the reviews, expected them to stick like glue in snow. They work very well on my truck in snow but still spin a bit when it's slippery. In retrospect, I'm surprised at how well the RTS's did in the snow. I expected a dramatic improvement with the Yoko's but didn't see it. Yet, reveiws for the RTS's say they are not good for snow. I can't give you a wear report on the Yoko's but from what I see in reviews, the warmer your climate, the faster they wear. Noise isn't a problem at this point. I'd buy them again because you get a lot of tire for the money. I wanted to get the new Brigstone Duelers that rated the highest but they were back ordered everywhere before winter and a lot more expensive. Hope this helps.
As for the shocks, I will give them a little more time. If I can make an adapter to alter my shock dyno to fit the IAS's and the std. OEM's. I will test them and post the messages. In reality though, it what you like when you are in the seat.
So, unless you live where it is warm and dry year-round, I would personally stay away from the Yokos. BTW...I give Tire Rack a big thumbs up...decent prices and FAST standard shipping!
I installed the Revos prior to hunting season (Pennsylvania) (6K miles ago) and they have performed great in all sorts of conditions (steep trails in the mud, ice and snow) as well as, at 60-70 mph highway driving to and from. I love'm compared to the GY RTS which had no grip in the wet and hydroplaned at 45+ mph.
Supposedly, there is a softer tread compound that is exposed as the tire wears down so one maintains wet grip. We'll see but so far so go. Several of my hunting buddies have now put them on their Ford Explorers too.
Thanks
John
Bookitty
http://www.dakota-truck.net/order_status.html
I logged on as I normally do yesterday afternoon... Later that evening, The "internet cookie" on my computer was not correct. (A cookie is used to remember your password)
I did NOT have to re-register, just re-logon with my password and change my homepage to the new one.
Bookitty
You should be "subscribed" to the forums that you wish to follow.
Then, when you click on "Message Center" on the left, you will see a list of YOUR PERSONAL LIST of forums you follow.
In my opionion, this is the VERY BEST FEATURE of the Edmunds townhall. I follow many other websites and this feature of the Edmunds townhall stands out as a shining star.
(I thought eveyone was using this neato "subscribe" feature of Edmunds townhall )