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Dodge Dakota - Quad Cab

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Comments

  • spike50spike50 Member Posts: 481
    bpeebles - I'll have to try your suggestion. I also want to note that it takes many log-ins to eventually have already opened posts to not be maked as "New". So I don't know if it's Edmunds, my machine, or me but it all work fine before. I'll keep trying.
  • spike50spike50 Member Posts: 481
    bpeebles - I'll try your method soon. I also wanted to note that my reading of any new posts doesn't clear them from showing up again and again as "New". This wasn't the case with the old system. This old dog will keep trying.
  • spike50spike50 Member Posts: 481
    That's interesting. My #4717 never showed up on this list until I sent #4718 (just now). I had assumed that #4717 somehow was never sent or lost in the system. Enough
  • Karen_SKaren_S Member Posts: 5,092
    My apologies for not stopping by sooner! Yes, the site has been updated and there have been some changes. At the top of the page is a link to "Our Software..." discussion. You will find answers to most of your questions about the new set-up there. If not, then please post what problems you are experiencing.
  • spike50spike50 Member Posts: 481
    With today's fill up on my '00 (May '00 purchase, 4.7L, 5sp, LSD, 31x10.5-15's, Redline in trans, transfer, and rear, Mobil 1 5-30W in engine):

    58,145 miles
    $5,194.65 (US)
    3,586.6 gals (US)
    $0.089 / mile - Average
    16.21 mpg - Average
    $1.45 / gal - Average
  • ferousferous Member Posts: 226
    I'll chime in...
    I have a 2000 QC 2WD 4.7L 5spd Man 3.55LSD
    65,438 miles
    $4,428 (US)
    3,078 gals (US)
    21.3 MPG avg
    $1.43 per Gal avg
  • spike50spike50 Member Posts: 481
    Forgot to mention I too have a 3.55 rear but it's in a 4x4.
  • furrydog1furrydog1 Member Posts: 35
    Our 2002, QUAD,4WD,AUTO,3.55, 4.7 just turned over 40k last month. So far no problems at all except a few rattles and the typical but expected poor mileage. We bought it in December of '01 so we have been putting alot of miles on it quickly. At 30k my buddy who is a Dodge mechanic did the recommended fluid changes listed in the manual. Also had him flush the radiator and fuel system with the BG44k stuff. The brakes are holding up fine but could probably use a turn as they do pulsate slightly. So far I am more than impressed with the quality of this truck and have actually had to eat crow as I originally wanted the Toyota for quality reasons but my wife insisted on the Dakota b/c of the size. Also have the original tires and it looks like I could get another 20k out of them.
    I regularly check with my friend who is the Dodge Truck mechanic and he says he has yet to do an overhaul on a 4.7. He said rear ends are a different story though.
  • ravenoneravenone Member Posts: 20
    Has anyone experience squeaks under the drivers seat. I only get them when the Quad is in motion. I cannot duplicate just by wiggling the seat with my weight, or when out of the seat. My truck is an '03 DAK QUAD 4.7 5M.

    Thanks,

    Raven
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    Raven,

    I did. I have a 2003 Club Cab with the standard buckets and this seat squeak started all of a sudden, pestered me for nearly two months and has since gone completely away. Maybe the cold weather had something to do with it. I'm not sure.

    Best regards,
    Dusty
  • ritzoidritzoid Member Posts: 19
    Raven, I have a 2001 QC with buckets with the occasional seat squeak...driver's seat, right rear corner...near the seatbelt attachment point. I aperiodically squirt a little Triflo on the mounting points and it seems to take care of it...for a while. HTH Regards, Steve
  • ravenoneravenone Member Posts: 20
    Dusty & Steve,

    Thanks for the information. I'll try the spray approach and let you know how it works.

    All the best,

    Raven
  • glzr2glzr2 Member Posts: 70
    OK guys/girls.... I'm getting a little frustrated. First, trying to find shocks for my truck (02, 4.7 4wd QC) is a circus. Every where I look, no one carries shocks for the 2000 and up Dak. I found Edelbrock IAS, but that was it. I finally got fed up and ordered the Edelbrocks and I'm sure they are worth the price (bushings must be gold plated or something). The second act of the Dodge circus has been trying to find a service manual for an '02 Dak. What is the deal with Chilton/Hayes???? Nothing on the Dak since '00??? Does anyone know where to get a cheap shop manual??? Not that I need it for the shocks, but for other upgrades/repairs.
  • haselhasel Member Posts: 64
    The Monroe Reflex will work Front 911220 Rear 911140 they are no problem to find cost $40.49 Front 41.54 Rear.
  • time2littletime2little Member Posts: 3
    In order to install an airbag switch you have to get an exemption letter from NHTSA. Information is available at their website at ://www.nhtsa.dot.gov/airbags

    You need a letter since you have a rear seat, so in theory you shouldn't have to put kids in the front seat. Works fine unless you have more than 3 kids (like me!)

    Once you get a letter from NHTSA, you can get someone to install the switch. Cost me $325 3 years ago, and the service tech came to my car at work. Seems like a lot for "just a switch", but it ties into the car electronics so you get an airbag light when it's turned off etc.. Whomever modifies the vehicle has to submit record of the modification to NHTSA.

    Originally I thought to "do it myself" but decided in the end that I didn't want to deal with the safety issues associated with either accidental deployment, or lack of deployment when needed.

    Good luck.
  • Karen_SKaren_S Member Posts: 5,092
    Consumers' Most Wanted Vehicles for 2004
  • dskoczylasdskoczylas Member Posts: 22
    I got Rancho RSX's last year for my 01 DAK Quad cab. Big difference from stock shocks. Bought them during Rancho's 4 for the price of 3 sale. I believe they are close to the Edelbrocks for about half the money. I believe the sale is going on this month.
  • traumagastraumagas Member Posts: 64
    Hello all
       Thanks to this board, I have found the code for my check engine light po155 and identified it to Oxygen sensor 2/1 heater element Malfunction. with that what does that mean ? Can I buy o2 sensor (the one located on the right exhaust manifold ) replace it then reset by battery disconect Also who should I get the o2 sensor from Napa or other ?

    Thanks again for any help on the above question
    Jon Stensloff
    Traumagas@aol.com
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    Before you lay down some bread for an O2 sensor, I would check out the circuitry going to it first. You could have lost power to the heater circuit.

    I've seen and heard of mixed results when using aftermarket O2 sensor replacements. On older FWD Chrysler products the factory replacements were noticeably better. On GMs I don't ever remember a difference. I know people with Nissans and Toyotas that think aftermarket replacements are much better.

    I would seek other opinions.

    Good luck and best regards,
    Dusty
  • jhorljhorl Member Posts: 89
    Now that the dakota is gone and I'm waiting on my Ram diesel I have a few questions. bpeebles, I ordered with a 6 speed manual. Are you pleased with the Redline manual Tranny fluid you are using. What improvements if any did you notice. Also the brake break-in that has been mentioned here. Should I do something like that with a brand new truck. If so can you redirect me to that post so I can download it.
    Thanks
    John
  • sunburnsunburn Member Posts: 319
    My 02 QC, 4.7, auto, 4x4 turned 40K miles today. Everything seems to be holding up OK, except for the front rotors. They're pretty warped. The truck is starting to shake bad when braking at high speeds. Also, getting feedback through the steering wheel and pulsations through the brake pedal. This has all come on in the last 5K miles. I'll be ordering some new Brembo rotors and some new brake pads soon. I'm also starting to look for some new shocks. I've narrowed it down to either Monroe Reflex or Rancho RSXs.
  • glzr2glzr2 Member Posts: 70
    Just an update.... the front Edelbrock shocks final arrived. Installing the shocks was easy. The biggest problem I had was with the Craftsman "professional" grade floor jack. I wasted three hours and three trips to Sears. I just picked up the rear shocks yesterday and plan on installing them on Saturday.

    I really like the IAS shocks. Of course the OEMs were completely blown out, so anything is an improvement, but the IAS seem to handle really well. The Spring Detroit potholes and expansion joints used to really throw the truck around, but now it doesn't bounce.

    I'll give another update after I install the rears this weekend.

    I do have a question for anyone who has replaced the front OEM shocks with Edelbrock IAS. At the lower attachment, did you use the provided aluminum spacer between the IAS shock and the arm assembly? The spacer was in a separate bag (inside the box) with it's own assembly diagram, but it was not mentioned in the assembly instructions. I would guess that the spacer is used to provide additional clearance for the shock cylinder (to axle shaft?), but it seems that it would add addition stress to the bolt by increasing the distance between the point of downward force from the shock and the lower arm. Has anyone had a bolt break? Paranoid... yes

    Gordon

    02 4.7 Auto 4wd QC
  • jhorljhorl Member Posts: 89
    Yes, I did use the spacers. Without them on the clearance was too tight. Before I sold the Dakota I had no problems.
  • traumagastraumagas Member Posts: 64
    Well approx 8000 miles ago I placed new TRW Powerstop rotors along with Ceramic pads on the truck. which is 2001 quad 4.7 with HD & trailer tow pkg, 11 inch rear drums (wish I had DISC on the rear like Later Models)
       I now have warped rotors again whats up with that, I am easy on equipment no harsh braking
    even use OD on off for down shifting to assist.
       The wheels are orig no change in size of tires and truck is seldom loaded. Does anyone have any suggestions. Thought TRW was a good route any other makes of rotors out there that may
    be better?
      PS the rotors have never had Impact on them only Torqued

    Thanks Jon
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    (traumagas) Are you *SURE* that the rotors are warped? (By way of measuring the runout with approprate equipment)

    Judging from your description of being "easy" on the brakes, it is far more likely that you have a buildup of grunge on the rotors. (not visible to the eye) This causes the brake rotors to have uneven coefficent of friction on various areas of its surface. This is known to cause a "pulsing feeling" when braking. HOWEVER, Unlike warped rotors, this "pulsing feeling" is not felt in the brake pedal nor in the steering wheel.

    The "fix" for grungy brake rotors is to perform some HEAVY braking and make sure you let some smoke out. This should then be followed by about 30 minutes of continious driving to cool the brake components.

    I find a need to do this every 4-6 months. I drive up a steep hill (several miles to a ski area base-lodge) then accellerate down the hill stopping often with VERY heavy braking. When I get to the bottom, the brakes can be smelled. This burns off the oils and other crud imbedded in the rotors. Followed by 30 minutes of cooldown driving (continous), the brake pedal feel more solid and that funky "pulsing feeling" is gone for another several months.
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    Yeah, Bpeebles description is pretty accurate and with that few miles I suspect he's right.

    Most of the grunge I see on rotors, not just Dakotas, but others, too (my wife's Avalon does the same thing), is caused by rust that forms very lightly on the rotor surfaces overnight or anytime the vehicle is parked for a period. In fact, "easy" driving (like mine and yours) seems to make it worse.

    This rust scum piles up on one linear area of the rotor surface and takes a while to get burnt off by friction. I occasionally hard stop to get rid of the pulsing, but not as hard as Bpeebles does it. On trips over ten or fifteen miles my 2003 doesn't seem to experience it much. But my work commute is just under five miles one way, plus a half-dozen little quarter-mile hops on company property. For me the Monday through Friday routine is prone to do what I think your's might be doing.

    I have 23K on my factory brakes and the scuz build-up problem is just starting to become annoying. My pads look great. I haven't measured the rotors yet, but they are not whipped. Since in recent years I've just had bad luck trying to get a good and successful resurfacing on rotors, I'll probably just install new ones when I have to re-pad.

    Try cleaning the rotor surfaces with some heavy sandpaper. Don't use too much force and don't try to make them shinny. You just want to remove rough areas. I wouldn't be surprised if the pulsing goes away.

    Best regards,
    Dusty
  • haselhasel Member Posts: 64
    Go with the Brembo rotors they seem to have taken care of my problems, had no luck with the Raybestos Ceramic Linings or Rotors, on my Toyotas I got 108000 miles on my front pads, so am not hard on brakes, am back to using the the OEM pads that came with truck.
  • mopar67mopar67 Member Posts: 728
    Do you know if AAM got the contract for axles for Dakotas?
    I was poking around at the dealer today (closed on Sunday in PA) and the rear ends of the Daks (v-8 equipped) didn't look like the Dana unit mine had.
    I did see on the heavy half ton rams, the AAM logo on the cover, but I could not see it on the Dak axles.
    The new Durango had a totally different axle, perhaps made by DC itself, than I have ever seen.

    The rest of the rig left a bit to be desired in terms of execution and styling.
  • ronslakieronslakie Member Posts: 58
    traumagas - Are the TRW power stop rotors you have the cross drilled version. I recently bought these after reading some good reviews but haven't installed them yet.

    Ron
    Springfield, VA
  • traumagastraumagas Member Posts: 64
    Well
      I tried the above recommendation on build up and I am sure my rotors are warped. I feel it in both pedal and wheel. My rotors Are the Slotted not drilled. I have ceramic pads. Will be looking for a new set of rotors which brand to buy now. Are these rotors just not big enough for this truck ? Do you guys with 4 wheel disc have the problem ? or is the braking better and more equal since it is 4 wheel disc.
      Thanks again for all comments
      Jon
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    I am sorry to hear that your rotors are warped. Good thing they are so easy to replace. (no re-packing the wheel bearings 8-)

    There are several specific, controllable variables that can contribute to warped rotors.
    *) Not using a torque wrench whet tightening the lugnuts.
    *) Over-torquing the lugnuts
    *) Not evenly tigheting the lugnuts in the specified pattern.

    All of the above rotor-warping items are often blatently done by repair-shops. They actually use an AIR-RACHET to put the lugnuts on!

    I know I have offered this weblink in the past... but it is worth reviewing if you are installing new rotors.
    http://www.shotimes.com/brakes/part1.html
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    ....One more:

    Washing the truck immediately after being driven enough to get the rotors very hot. This can almost instantly cause warping.

    Bests,
    Dusty
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    As far as I know, the 2001-3s the 8.25 axles are Chrysler, and the 9.25s are American Axle.

    I don't know about the 2004s.

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • aggiedudeaggiedude Member Posts: 1
    Folks, I think I screwed up in Sept and bought a Silverado that I'm not totally satisfied with..It's a GREAT truck but I've driven Nissans for the past 10yrs and "thought" a full size wud be better; I was wrong...But I don't want to go back to compact...So basically I'm looking at the Dakota but need help deciding between V6 and V8 and Club versus Quad...I'm single but engaged so room isn't a huge thing but don't want another "regret" purchase....Any info/opinions/help wud be appreciated big time...Thanx, Marty
  • tiltboytiltboy Member Posts: 63
    Hi all, I have found a possible replacement truck for my recently totalled 2000 QC 4x4. The only item it doesn't have is the LSD rear axle. I am short on time, so please reply quickly! I don't know if I can find another truck by tomorrow, as the rebate expires on 3/31. Is this a deal breaker?

    Thanks, Tilt......
  • dmoulddmould Member Posts: 76
    I require the 6.5" box for my needs, which include carrying a snowmobile or a slide-in camper, so there was only one choice for me - Club cab. If you aren't too concerned about carrying large items, then a Quad would be better down the road should you decide to have a family. The Club Cab will carry child seats, but it's harder to get in without the rear doors. Personally, I prefer the looks of the Club - the Quad is too "family sedan".
  • dmoulddmould Member Posts: 76
    Unless you spend a lot of time off-road or in snowy winter conditions, a LSD isn't critical if you have 4-wheel drive. It wouldn't be a deal-breaker for me. If I had a choice though, I'd go with the LSD.
  • ronslakieronslakie Member Posts: 58
    aggiedude - I had a similar situation to yours, I bought a full size Ram 2500 in 98 and after a while decided it was really too big. I have a 2K Dak 4x4 CC with a 4.7, 5 speed and love it. After 50K miles I have had no problems including the brakes. If I were you I would definitely opt for the 4.7 engine; I have read many posts which actually showed the 4.7 getting mileage as good as or better than the the 3.9 engine and it is faster than the 5.2 it replaced. I have also read some posts indicating that the new 3.7 engine is only slightly better than the 4.7 on gas mileage. As far as the CC versus the Quad Cab it is a matter of individual prefernce. I personally like the looks of the CC better and prefer having a bigger bed. One thing I do wish is that the CC had rear doors that opened; from what I have read the 05 CC will have rear opening doors.

    Ron
    Springfield, VA
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    I drove a '93 Sentra for ten years and put less than $1600 in repairs and maintenance into that car. It was the most reliable and perfectly assembled car I had ever owned. It's too bad the newer ones aren't doing so well, if you can believe Consumer Reports.

    But I have to say that my 2003 Dakota Club Cab has been even better so far. I have the 287 V8 motor (4.7), 545RFE automatic, 3.55 LSD, and off-road package which includes 16x8 wheels. My total fuel average at nearly 23K is 16.57 MPG. In cold weather it dips. My top MPG was 21.76 freeway driving. My around town varies between 15-17 summer, 13-15 winter.

    Like another added, I needed the cargo box length to allow my ATV to fit and be able to close the tailgate. Even hauling the ATV (650 lbs.) and tools I always break 20 MPG going down to my property.

    I believe that driven the same exact way the 3.7 would produce a little better fuel mileage. I also believe that if you are an impatient driver at all, your mileage will suffer more with the V8. The 287 motor is not lacking for power in my opinion. Empty it is more than up to the challenge in a side-by-side with a 5.4 F150 or a 5.6 Chevy. It is quick off the line and has very good low-end torque.

    I looked at every truck imaginable before I bought (except the S10 and Sonoma). I would have liked to buy Nissan but the Frontier was way too small. (The Titan wasn't out yet.) Same with the Ranger and Tacoma. After 18 months of ownership my Dakota experience has been 99% positive. I've been back to the dealer only once when a headlight lens was cracked by a piece of ice from another car. I was more than surprized when the Dodge dealer replaced it under warranty.

    The ride is good (not great) and with the front and rear sway bars it handles better than most trucks. It has an extremely smooth engine and transmission combination. No rattles (which REALLY bother me in a vehicle). For me the Dakota is the perfect size and pleasant to drive.

    Unless I have major problems with this truck, I'd do it again.

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • mopar67mopar67 Member Posts: 728
    had the Dana 9.25 under it, at least the rear. The front I had no idea.

    I read someplace that AAM picked up a sizeable business deal with DC since DC was a little miffed over the quality of the quadra drive system for the JGC.
    I thought that AAM would end up with more DC business but I could be wrong.

    Pop Quiz for automotive afficionados:

    Who is the CEO of AAM?
    (Hint, he used to work at Chrysler)
  • tiltboytiltboy Member Posts: 63
    I pulled the trigger on a white 04' QC 4x4 with pretty much all the goodies. Today was the last rebate day, unless they extend it. MSRP was $30k and I made it home under $24k. I paid more for my 2000 QC four years ago! I do kind of miss my 5sp with the V-8!

    Tilt..............
  • spike50spike50 Member Posts: 481
    tiltboy - What are the specs for your new Dak? I was wondering what $24K buys.
  • slickwilliedjslickwilliedj Member Posts: 252
    I have an 01 dakota sport plus 2wd q/c with the 4.7 lsd,5 speed auto,tire and wheel pkg.Truck has approx 32k on it. Been pretty happy with it.
     About 6k ago I replaced and upgraded the wheels,tires and shocks.I'm now running on the 17in R/T wheels with 275/55/17 YOKOHAMA Geolandar h/t-s tires. About a month later I replaced the shocks with the edelbrock ias shocks. I'm very happy with my choice and would recommend them. The tire and wheel combo looks killer and the shocks give the truck and more controlled ride however the larger tire and wheel combo does make the truck ride stiffer and harder but the added improvement in handeling and looks is worth it in my option.
  • slickwilliedjslickwilliedj Member Posts: 252
    01 dakota sport plus 2wd q/c with the 4.7 lsd 3.55,5 speed auto.....etc

    just turned 30k a few months ago and I had the following performed at a local private shop:

    Oil&filter change (10/40 valvaline reg oil with a purelator pure one filter) have used this combo since day one with perfect results.

    Coolent flushed and replaced (green type)

    Spark plugs changed (bosch platinum +4 #4418) Have noticed the engine running smoother and stronger and Getting about 1 mpg of fuel ecnomy better.

    Brake pads changed (wagner thermoquiet pads) factory pads still had about another 10k of meat however, the rotors were warped. So I decided to do it right and change the pads and start of fresh, since it was all a part. Also had complete brake system flushed and replaced with fresh fluid. Rear brakes (11in drums on mine) are still in good condition tech just cleaned and adjusted them. fyi truck has the rare 4wheel anti lock set up.

    transmission fluid is just a pink and clean as can be so the tech recommended not changing it at this time.

    airfilter was recently upgraded to an k&n fipk fine since I recently cleaned it.(fyi I have noticed an increase with engine response and slightly more power.truck is also much much louder then stock aircleaner set up when u put your foot into it.( enough to make people look in there rear view mirrors as you pass)lol (: sort of sounds like a 70's era muscle car with a nice 4barrel set up .
  • slickwilliedjslickwilliedj Member Posts: 252
    01 dakota sport plus 2wd q/c with the 4.7 lsd 3.55,5 speed auto.....etc

    approached a red light a few blocks from my home and in the rear view i see a truck coming up rather quickly to the light. He pulls up in the middle lane of a 3 lane road. so we have a brand new 05 Ford f150 4 dr 2wd vs Dodge Dakota Q/C. now I just knew he was gonna try me. Had just finished fully detailing mine so it was looking sweet and I was feeling good so i thought what the hey...Light turns green and right from the start I pulled ahead of him and left him by about 2 car lengths to about 60 then i let off since i proved my point.lol we get to the next light just before a overpass (hills here in sfla) and smoked him again while going up hill till about 65mph when I let off again. Now I'm pretty certain he had the 5.4L since it was a lariet edition but I honestly dont know... But it sounded like total crap all I heard as I let off and let him pass me was a hissing sound like a big vacume cleaner!!! lol... damn the dakota 4.7 sounds sweet and with the cold air intake its awesome..... funny how a 230 hp truck beats a 300hp!! I could tell this guy was not a happy camper that he just got smoked by a Dodge!!
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    My 2003 4.7 auto CC just smokes my son-in-laws 5.4 F150 SC. I've driven this truck a number of times and it just feels like its faster than my Dakota, but side by side the Dak just leaves the truck in the dust. This goes to show you that seat-of-the-pants feel can be extremely misleading. The Dakota is so solid and transmits less noise and vibration. This gives the Dakota feeling of slowness.

    His brother, by the way, just bought a '04 F150 regular cab with the 5.4. I wouldn't call it a dog, but older 5.4s are noticeably faster.

    Best regards,
    Dusty
  • tiltboytiltboy Member Posts: 63
    Quad cab plus, 4x4, 4.7, auto, Mine has the quick order package 26 H. Power drivers seat, 6 disc changer, tow pkg, bench seat, HD engine cooling group, rear sliding window, tire upgrade, and body molding. The sticker was $29,975 I think, and I paid $22,800. I had to pay an extra $912 for sales tax when I got my tag. Total $23,712. I had an EC number, which is the Chrysler employee discount. I think it is usually 4-5% under invoice, plus the $3,500 rebate. I paid less for this one than my 2000 that had less equipment and manual trans! And that was 4 years ago! So far so good except I miss the manual trans. and the growl of the flowmaster exhaust on my 2000!
  • slickwilliedjslickwilliedj Member Posts: 252
    Hey glad to hear your out there showing those Ford owners the DODGE emblem on the tail gate! Interesting though that you feel the older Ford 5.4L engines are faster even though they created less HP and less torque VS the new 5.4l set up. Perhaps the new trucks are heavier?

    Too, bad the R/T is no more and from what I've read no plans for one with the 05 Dakota. Can you imagin a Dakota R/T with a Hemi....(: Wait what about a supercharged Hemi woooooow...
  • slickwilliedjslickwilliedj Member Posts: 252
    Was looking around the mopar site and found 0 performance parts for the 4.7l?? I emailed mopar but never got a response back as to why. Any body have any ideas why not many companies offer any performance parts for the 4.7.? I would love a high performance computer upgrade but the only one I've found was a jet chip and was not impressed.
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    I thought I saw a HP intake manifold for the 4.7 on the Mopar site.

    Throttlebodies are available from aftermarket supplies and someone said they saw a header package also. But you're right, what ever's available for the 4.7 sure isn't anywhere near as plentiful as the "LA" series engines.

    Best regards,
    Dusty
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