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Dodge Dakota - Quad Cab
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Comments
58,145 miles
$5,194.65 (US)
3,586.6 gals (US)
$0.089 / mile - Average
16.21 mpg - Average
$1.45 / gal - Average
I have a 2000 QC 2WD 4.7L 5spd Man 3.55LSD
65,438 miles
$4,428 (US)
3,078 gals (US)
21.3 MPG avg
$1.43 per Gal avg
I regularly check with my friend who is the Dodge Truck mechanic and he says he has yet to do an overhaul on a 4.7. He said rear ends are a different story though.
Thanks,
Raven
I did. I have a 2003 Club Cab with the standard buckets and this seat squeak started all of a sudden, pestered me for nearly two months and has since gone completely away. Maybe the cold weather had something to do with it. I'm not sure.
Best regards,
Dusty
Thanks for the information. I'll try the spray approach and let you know how it works.
All the best,
Raven
You need a letter since you have a rear seat, so in theory you shouldn't have to put kids in the front seat. Works fine unless you have more than 3 kids (like me!)
Once you get a letter from NHTSA, you can get someone to install the switch. Cost me $325 3 years ago, and the service tech came to my car at work. Seems like a lot for "just a switch", but it ties into the car electronics so you get an airbag light when it's turned off etc.. Whomever modifies the vehicle has to submit record of the modification to NHTSA.
Originally I thought to "do it myself" but decided in the end that I didn't want to deal with the safety issues associated with either accidental deployment, or lack of deployment when needed.
Good luck.
Thanks to this board, I have found the code for my check engine light po155 and identified it to Oxygen sensor 2/1 heater element Malfunction. with that what does that mean ? Can I buy o2 sensor (the one located on the right exhaust manifold ) replace it then reset by battery disconect Also who should I get the o2 sensor from Napa or other ?
Thanks again for any help on the above question
Jon Stensloff
Traumagas@aol.com
I've seen and heard of mixed results when using aftermarket O2 sensor replacements. On older FWD Chrysler products the factory replacements were noticeably better. On GMs I don't ever remember a difference. I know people with Nissans and Toyotas that think aftermarket replacements are much better.
I would seek other opinions.
Good luck and best regards,
Dusty
Thanks
John
I really like the IAS shocks. Of course the OEMs were completely blown out, so anything is an improvement, but the IAS seem to handle really well. The Spring Detroit potholes and expansion joints used to really throw the truck around, but now it doesn't bounce.
I'll give another update after I install the rears this weekend.
I do have a question for anyone who has replaced the front OEM shocks with Edelbrock IAS. At the lower attachment, did you use the provided aluminum spacer between the IAS shock and the arm assembly? The spacer was in a separate bag (inside the box) with it's own assembly diagram, but it was not mentioned in the assembly instructions. I would guess that the spacer is used to provide additional clearance for the shock cylinder (to axle shaft?), but it seems that it would add addition stress to the bolt by increasing the distance between the point of downward force from the shock and the lower arm. Has anyone had a bolt break? Paranoid... yes
Gordon
02 4.7 Auto 4wd QC
I now have warped rotors again whats up with that, I am easy on equipment no harsh braking
even use OD on off for down shifting to assist.
The wheels are orig no change in size of tires and truck is seldom loaded. Does anyone have any suggestions. Thought TRW was a good route any other makes of rotors out there that may
be better?
PS the rotors have never had Impact on them only Torqued
Thanks Jon
Judging from your description of being "easy" on the brakes, it is far more likely that you have a buildup of grunge on the rotors. (not visible to the eye) This causes the brake rotors to have uneven coefficent of friction on various areas of its surface. This is known to cause a "pulsing feeling" when braking. HOWEVER, Unlike warped rotors, this "pulsing feeling" is not felt in the brake pedal nor in the steering wheel.
The "fix" for grungy brake rotors is to perform some HEAVY braking and make sure you let some smoke out. This should then be followed by about 30 minutes of continious driving to cool the brake components.
I find a need to do this every 4-6 months. I drive up a steep hill (several miles to a ski area base-lodge) then accellerate down the hill stopping often with VERY heavy braking. When I get to the bottom, the brakes can be smelled. This burns off the oils and other crud imbedded in the rotors. Followed by 30 minutes of cooldown driving (continous), the brake pedal feel more solid and that funky "pulsing feeling" is gone for another several months.
Most of the grunge I see on rotors, not just Dakotas, but others, too (my wife's Avalon does the same thing), is caused by rust that forms very lightly on the rotor surfaces overnight or anytime the vehicle is parked for a period. In fact, "easy" driving (like mine and yours) seems to make it worse.
This rust scum piles up on one linear area of the rotor surface and takes a while to get burnt off by friction. I occasionally hard stop to get rid of the pulsing, but not as hard as Bpeebles does it. On trips over ten or fifteen miles my 2003 doesn't seem to experience it much. But my work commute is just under five miles one way, plus a half-dozen little quarter-mile hops on company property. For me the Monday through Friday routine is prone to do what I think your's might be doing.
I have 23K on my factory brakes and the scuz build-up problem is just starting to become annoying. My pads look great. I haven't measured the rotors yet, but they are not whipped. Since in recent years I've just had bad luck trying to get a good and successful resurfacing on rotors, I'll probably just install new ones when I have to re-pad.
Try cleaning the rotor surfaces with some heavy sandpaper. Don't use too much force and don't try to make them shinny. You just want to remove rough areas. I wouldn't be surprised if the pulsing goes away.
Best regards,
Dusty
I was poking around at the dealer today (closed on Sunday in PA) and the rear ends of the Daks (v-8 equipped) didn't look like the Dana unit mine had.
I did see on the heavy half ton rams, the AAM logo on the cover, but I could not see it on the Dak axles.
The new Durango had a totally different axle, perhaps made by DC itself, than I have ever seen.
The rest of the rig left a bit to be desired in terms of execution and styling.
Ron
Springfield, VA
I tried the above recommendation on build up and I am sure my rotors are warped. I feel it in both pedal and wheel. My rotors Are the Slotted not drilled. I have ceramic pads. Will be looking for a new set of rotors which brand to buy now. Are these rotors just not big enough for this truck ? Do you guys with 4 wheel disc have the problem ? or is the braking better and more equal since it is 4 wheel disc.
Thanks again for all comments
Jon
There are several specific, controllable variables that can contribute to warped rotors.
*) Not using a torque wrench whet tightening the lugnuts.
*) Over-torquing the lugnuts
*) Not evenly tigheting the lugnuts in the specified pattern.
All of the above rotor-warping items are often blatently done by repair-shops. They actually use an AIR-RACHET to put the lugnuts on!
I know I have offered this weblink in the past... but it is worth reviewing if you are installing new rotors.
http://www.shotimes.com/brakes/part1.html
Washing the truck immediately after being driven enough to get the rotors very hot. This can almost instantly cause warping.
Bests,
Dusty
I don't know about the 2004s.
Regards,
Dusty
Thanks, Tilt......
Ron
Springfield, VA
But I have to say that my 2003 Dakota Club Cab has been even better so far. I have the 287 V8 motor (4.7), 545RFE automatic, 3.55 LSD, and off-road package which includes 16x8 wheels. My total fuel average at nearly 23K is 16.57 MPG. In cold weather it dips. My top MPG was 21.76 freeway driving. My around town varies between 15-17 summer, 13-15 winter.
Like another added, I needed the cargo box length to allow my ATV to fit and be able to close the tailgate. Even hauling the ATV (650 lbs.) and tools I always break 20 MPG going down to my property.
I believe that driven the same exact way the 3.7 would produce a little better fuel mileage. I also believe that if you are an impatient driver at all, your mileage will suffer more with the V8. The 287 motor is not lacking for power in my opinion. Empty it is more than up to the challenge in a side-by-side with a 5.4 F150 or a 5.6 Chevy. It is quick off the line and has very good low-end torque.
I looked at every truck imaginable before I bought (except the S10 and Sonoma). I would have liked to buy Nissan but the Frontier was way too small. (The Titan wasn't out yet.) Same with the Ranger and Tacoma. After 18 months of ownership my Dakota experience has been 99% positive. I've been back to the dealer only once when a headlight lens was cracked by a piece of ice from another car. I was more than surprized when the Dodge dealer replaced it under warranty.
The ride is good (not great) and with the front and rear sway bars it handles better than most trucks. It has an extremely smooth engine and transmission combination. No rattles (which REALLY bother me in a vehicle). For me the Dakota is the perfect size and pleasant to drive.
Unless I have major problems with this truck, I'd do it again.
Regards,
Dusty
I read someplace that AAM picked up a sizeable business deal with DC since DC was a little miffed over the quality of the quadra drive system for the JGC.
I thought that AAM would end up with more DC business but I could be wrong.
Pop Quiz for automotive afficionados:
Who is the CEO of AAM?
(Hint, he used to work at Chrysler)
Tilt..............
About 6k ago I replaced and upgraded the wheels,tires and shocks.I'm now running on the 17in R/T wheels with 275/55/17 YOKOHAMA Geolandar h/t-s tires. About a month later I replaced the shocks with the edelbrock ias shocks. I'm very happy with my choice and would recommend them. The tire and wheel combo looks killer and the shocks give the truck and more controlled ride however the larger tire and wheel combo does make the truck ride stiffer and harder but the added improvement in handeling and looks is worth it in my option.
just turned 30k a few months ago and I had the following performed at a local private shop:
Oil&filter change (10/40 valvaline reg oil with a purelator pure one filter) have used this combo since day one with perfect results.
Coolent flushed and replaced (green type)
Spark plugs changed (bosch platinum +4 #4418) Have noticed the engine running smoother and stronger and Getting about 1 mpg of fuel ecnomy better.
Brake pads changed (wagner thermoquiet pads) factory pads still had about another 10k of meat however, the rotors were warped. So I decided to do it right and change the pads and start of fresh, since it was all a part. Also had complete brake system flushed and replaced with fresh fluid. Rear brakes (11in drums on mine) are still in good condition tech just cleaned and adjusted them. fyi truck has the rare 4wheel anti lock set up.
transmission fluid is just a pink and clean as can be so the tech recommended not changing it at this time.
airfilter was recently upgraded to an k&n fipk fine since I recently cleaned it.(fyi I have noticed an increase with engine response and slightly more power.truck is also much much louder then stock aircleaner set up when u put your foot into it.( enough to make people look in there rear view mirrors as you pass)lol (: sort of sounds like a 70's era muscle car with a nice 4barrel set up .
approached a red light a few blocks from my home and in the rear view i see a truck coming up rather quickly to the light. He pulls up in the middle lane of a 3 lane road. so we have a brand new 05 Ford f150 4 dr 2wd vs Dodge Dakota Q/C. now I just knew he was gonna try me. Had just finished fully detailing mine so it was looking sweet and I was feeling good so i thought what the hey...Light turns green and right from the start I pulled ahead of him and left him by about 2 car lengths to about 60 then i let off since i proved my point.lol we get to the next light just before a overpass (hills here in sfla) and smoked him again while going up hill till about 65mph when I let off again. Now I'm pretty certain he had the 5.4L since it was a lariet edition but I honestly dont know... But it sounded like total crap all I heard as I let off and let him pass me was a hissing sound like a big vacume cleaner!!! lol... damn the dakota 4.7 sounds sweet and with the cold air intake its awesome..... funny how a 230 hp truck beats a 300hp!! I could tell this guy was not a happy camper that he just got smoked by a Dodge!!
His brother, by the way, just bought a '04 F150 regular cab with the 5.4. I wouldn't call it a dog, but older 5.4s are noticeably faster.
Best regards,
Dusty
Too, bad the R/T is no more and from what I've read no plans for one with the 05 Dakota. Can you imagin a Dakota R/T with a Hemi....(: Wait what about a supercharged Hemi woooooow...
Throttlebodies are available from aftermarket supplies and someone said they saw a header package also. But you're right, what ever's available for the 4.7 sure isn't anywhere near as plentiful as the "LA" series engines.
Best regards,
Dusty