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In SoCal -- an auto broker sought out an FX35 AWD w/ Navi for me and came up with 39 month deal $950 down, $553 incl. taxes (7.75%). Based upon $43K MSRP. What else should I ask him re: deal and does it sound reasonable right off the bat? Is it right to assume that being in SoCal are we jacked up a little more than some other areas?
Thanks for your advice
You're right, of the two vehicles that you mentioned, the X-Type 3.0 and the new Audi A4, I personally like the Audi. Even though there is a ton of dealer cash on the Jag, I suspect that the Audi is actually less expensive to lease right now because its residual values are so much stronger. Let's run some numbers and see if that is indeed the case. According to my calculations, if you were to lease a 2005 Jaguar X-Type 3.0 Sedan with an MSRP of $38,265 and a selling price of $34,000 through Jaguar Credit right now for 36 months with 10,000 miles per year, your zero down, pre-tax monthly payment should be around $541. If you were to lease a 2005.5 Audi A4 2.0T Sedan with quattro with an MSRP of $34,620 and a selling price of $34,280 through Audi Financial Services right now for 36 months with 10,000 miles per year, its zero down, pre-tax monthly payment should be around $468. As you can see, the A4 is the better deal at this time.
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P.S. Thanks Kirstie, it is a lot easier for me to answer questions for community members who post all of the necessary information in their most recent post. This saves me from having to flip around from message to message.
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Saab Financial Services Corp. uses the more traditional money factors for leases. Its base lease money factor and residual value for a 2 year, 12,000 miles per lease of a Saab 9-2X Aero are currently .00270 and 65%. The numbers for a 3 year, 12k lease of this car should be .00215 and 53%.
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Lexus is not currently providing any sort of lease support on the all new 2006 GS 300. As a result, if you were to lease one through its captive finance company, Lexus Financial Services, at this time you would have to use its standard lease money factors. The last time that I saw it, LFS' base standard factor for consumers who qualify for its Tier 1+ credit tier and pay a security deposit was around .00245. LFS' current 3 year, 15,000 miles per residual value for an '06 GS 300 2WD should be 58%.
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If you were to lease a 2005 Nissan Altima 2.5 S (this car's lease program varies by trim level, let me know if you are interested in a different version) through Nissan Motor Acceptance Corp. right now for 36 months with 12,000 miles per year, its base money factor and residual value should be .00134 and 57%. Nissan is providing $750 lease cash on this car this month. This money will help you to negotiate an attractive capitalized cost.
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LX 2WD A.T.
LX 4WD A.T.
I plan on going to the dealer this weekend, if I get one I'll post all the specifics here.
Interested in your thoughts, if you have had a chance to look, on the Mercedes E350 lease special that began in June. Based on your previous comments, I know you are not in favour of the cap cost. Is this negotiable on these new lease deals? I also wonder what impact there would be in increasing the mileage to 12K or 15K per year? Is the optional equipment on the E350 lease special pretty much varied by dealer, based on their inventory? I believe they are quoting $579/mo, with $2900 cap cost, 39 month lease, $795 acquisition fee, 32,500 miles, no sec deposit.
Many Thanks
I noticed the same thing on the GM site (orig no GMS price for the 9-7x).
Thank you for the money factor/residual numbers for 24mos/30K mile & 36mos/45K mi.
I would like to compare this with the standard 24mos/24K mile & 36mos/36K mi MF & Residual.
I noticed you said in an earlier message that a 2 year lease is the real bargain for most cars -- am I correct in this? Here in IL, we must pay tax on entire cost, does this change you mind? I know this forum is very busy -- I definitely appreciate your help. Are there any other costs for SAAB lease that I'm missing? I'm looking for $0 down, pay only 1st mo payment at inception -- the least out of pocket cash possible.
Best Regards,
Desgnconcpts
Thanks for any help or suggestions you may have.
Thanks a lot
Never make a down payment on a lease; that money disappears if for some reason the car is totaled or stolen prior to lease termination.
How about buying a different car? Maybe what all these numbers are telling you is that you are getting ready to get in over your head with a $66,000 car! Buy a cheaper car; in the long run you will be happier! :shades:
The $7k was to keep the monthly payments where they could be easily afforded, and it will be a garage queen for sure so no biggie there. I was wondering more along the lines of wtf this dealer is trying to pull asking for $25k down (trying to take great advantage of not-so-great personal credit I'm assuming) and if anyone had advice on what to do about negotiating this rediculous price down, besides the obvious looking somewhere else (which is what I am leaning towards now)... :mad: :confuse:
Thanks for your reply. The annual mileage I was quoted was 12,000. The price of $234 does seem very good. I haven't pulled the trigger yet but I may do something in the next week. Thanks again.
First off, I've lurked on many a forum and I don't remember ever seeing a host / moderator as conscientious and dilligent as Car_Man. I feel guilty about asking this question because you've got to be busy answering everyone elses!! Thanks for all the work.
Now down to the question. What should the 36 and 48 month residual be on a 2005 Boxster and Boxster S. I'm thinking of finally getting one (I't s been a long time coming) and the local dealer is pushing a balloon option. I don't have/remember the exact numbers that he quoted but the residual seemed very low for that car and he stated time and again that that number could not be changed. Thanks Again!!
My nissan sentra lease is coming up in 4 months.
I'm supposed to arrange an inspection with a 3rd party to see what needs to be fixed and a cost will be assigned to the damage if I choose not to repair it. By the way, I'm in Canada, ontario, not sure if this makes a difference....
There are a few problems with my car right now:
a) Crack on front windshield (about 1" in diameter)
b) Side mirror (passenger side) is broken
c) Squeaking noise heard when driving (from wheels on front passenger side). I just replaced my brake pads and brake rotors yesterday but its still making a noise (not as loud as before I fixed the breaks)..
My questions are:
1) Should I fix these problems (all or just some) before the inspection OR should I just wait for the inspection ?
2) If I choose to fix the mirror before the inspection, will the inspector be able to tell that the mirror has been fixed (ie. if I don't use the original nissan part or if I try to get a garage to glue the mirror back on )?
3) Anybody know how much would the cost on my windshield if I choose not to repair it?
I just had my Accord inspected -- the inspector was very forgiving.
I was told the only way to fix my dented hood was to replace it - ~$600.
The inspector charged me $90.
Windshield will probably require replacement -- however, it the crack really is about an inch, you may be able to get a glass shop to fix it for you -- they use some compoud to mend the glass, so it is practically invisible -- tough to find these days, but when I did it last, it cost around $35 and took about 15 mins - totally worth the money. You will not be able to get a definitive yes or no on whether the repairs can be done until you bring the car in -- so you can get an estimate on getting a replacement windshield there. I would call around first, because not many glass shops do this repair these days. I think Geico actually covers windshield crack repair with no deductible, and they will point you to the nearest "service provider".
The inspector never drives your car -- they only start it. I guess it is to protect the company from accident liability. The noise you mention may come up later when you turn the car in -- no way of knowing until you return the car.
If you can get a garage to glue the mirror back so it looks / works (if it is power) "good as new" -- I doubt you will have a problem. If not, I think you should hold out and see what the inpector estimates for the repairs -- it may very well be less (as was the case with me) then if you fix it yourself, even using aftermarket parts.
Hope this helps.
With just front fees due at signing, you should be around $275 plus tax for a 12,000 mile lease. Give or take a few dollars for any options. Keep in mind that they are advertising their lease on a GL model with $1,425 additional customer down payment. But on a $21,000 SUV, $275 is a pretty good deal.
1. If you buy $60K car and put $20K down and borrow the rest of the money, in case of totalling the car the next day, you recoup that $10K minus depreciation (Insurance pays say $59K, from which 50 goes to the bank, the rest goes to you). Thus, the full benefit of downpayment comes immediately to you in form of lower payments, lower interest charges (lower base and sometimes rate). This $20K is still yours, you just exchanged it to a different form of a depreciating property.
2. If you do the same but lease and total your car, you may not see a penny of that $20K, because the bank takes the insurance check and then through their mambo-jumbo formulas comes to the conclusion the they owe you nothing, or say $2K, maybe $5K, just to wipe your tears. The full benefit of downpayment comes to you in full after the full lease term, not a day earlier (lower payments over the course of the contract term). You effectively handed down $20K to the bank and kissed the money good buy, since you actually have not bought the vehicle (exchanged the property).
The difference comes from assmption of the depreciation risk (ownership). In lease, since you actually rent the vehicle, you do not care
2018 430i Gran Coupe
I'm looking to lease a 2005 VW Passat GLS 1.8 Wagon for 36 months@15,000 mi/year within the next couple of days. What are the current lease cash/dealer incentives and special interest rates offered by VW for June leases and what is your feedback on the deal noted below? FYI: I'm not a current VW customer, so I'm not eligible for the loyalty discount. The deal I've been offered so far is as follows:
2005 Passat Wagon GLS 1.8 with Automatic and Leatherette
MSRP: $27,070
Cap Cost: $24,255
Money factor: .00067
Residual: 46%
Payment: $355.59 plus tax
Cash at inception (including 1st month): $605
Thanks for your help!
A friend of mine is interested in leasing a 2005 Cadillac CTS with the 1SB 3.8L package. He is looking for a 36 month lease @ 12k miles/yr. Does the GM employee pricing apply to leases as well as purchases?
What is the MF and residual on this car? And is there any other rebates or lease cash that GM is offering on the CTS? Thanks a bunch.
Chris
If you happen to know the Mercedes SLK 350 residuals and lease terms could you post them. The 2006 prices have been posted on Mercedes website and I was hoping that the new lease terms might be available.
I plan on doing a $0 down, 36 month, 15K mile lease.
Thanks
Thanks for the info. I'm assuming that the 12k miles per year qualifies as low miles thus getting an extra .03 on the residual. Is this correct?
And what is the acquisition fee and security deposit for the state of Florida?
Thanks!
The only thing is do you know what the AHFS June rates and residuals are for 2005 TL WITH NAV for both 36/12 and 27/12 leases?
Thanks!