Dodge Dakota - Quad Cab

dustyk · December 2005

(This is a repost from the Dakota General Forum)

My son is home on leave from the U.S. Army (1st Armored Div.) and as a gift I rented him a 2005 Dakota Quad Cab (4.7, auto, 4x4) from Enterprise. I was able to get some seat time in this truck and my overall impression is very, very good. The first thing I noticed was the exceptionally quiet cabin. This is by far the quietest truck I've been in to date, including the Tundra and the much overhyped F150. Compared to my '03 Dak with the 4.7, there is hardy any engine and drivetrain noise. There was a complete absence of wind noise and only a slight hum from the tires. The new 4.7 Magnum engine receives a carbon fiber composition valve cover that virtually eliminates noise from the valve train.

The 4.7 seemed a little slower off the line compared to my 4x2 Club Cab, but this truck also outweighed mine by about 900 pounds. My son says he's getting about 17 MPG in around town driving, which surprises me.

The seats are softer than my '03 and quite comfortable. The driving position seems a tad lower than the previous generation. Handling was excellent and with a noticeably lighter steering effort than my '03. The brakes seemed lighter and more positive.

Although I liked the white-faced instrumentation, it still disturbs me that Dodge left out the oil pressure and voltmeter gauges. The interior is nicely done, but seemed a little too Germanic and understated despite the wood-toned center escutheon surrounding the radio and climate controls. I did not like the more slender center console, but I can see that this is what allowed for the nicer (ie: wider) seats.

I was very impressed that this truck was still perfectly screwed together at 21,000 miles, with absolutely zero interior assembly defects, squeaks, buzzes or rattles. The platform seems extremely stiff and the cabin gives the feeling of being encassed in a solid block of steel.

It is difficult for me to compare the ride of this Quad Cab to the previous generation since I have only ever driven one of the earlier design. However, the ride of this 2005 Quad 4x4 was judged to be identical to my 2003 Club Cab at 53K. I think that means the ride might have been improved in the Quad, but I'll let other owners of the last generation to weigh in on this.

I have always found the new generation of the Dakota to be contemporally handsome and good looking except for the front end. I'm finding that the frontal appearance isn't offending my eyes quite as much as it first did, and since I was able to spend some time behind the wheel looking outward I can say that there is so much to like about the new Dak that I could forgive the jutty appearance of the front end. In truth, the only new truck design that I find has a more appealing front end design is the new F150. the Tundra, Titan, and Silverado are even uglier to my aging eye.

Bests,
Dusty
My son is home on leave from the U.S. Army (1st Armored Div.) and as a gift I rented him a 2005 Dakota Quad Cab (4.7, auto, 4x4) from Enterprise. I was able to get some seat time in this truck and my overall impression is very, very good. The first thing I noticed was the exceptionally quiet cabin. This is by far the quietest truck I've been in to date, including the Tundra and the much overhyped F150. Compared to my '03 Dak with the 4.7, there is hardy any engine and drivetrain noise. There was a complete absence of wind noise and only a slight hum from the tires. The new 4.7 Magnum engine receives a carbon fiber composition valve cover that virtually eliminates noise from the valve train.

The 4.7 seemed a little slower off the line compared to my 4x2 Club Cab, but this truck also outweighed mine by about 900 pounds. My son says he's getting about 17 MPG in around town driving, which surprises me.

The seats are softer than my '03 and quite comfortable. The driving position seems a tad lower than the previous generation. Handling was excellent and with a noticeably lighter steering effort than my '03. The brakes seemed lighter and more positive.

Although I liked the white-faced instrumentation, it still disturbs me that Dodge left out the oil pressure and voltmeter gauges. The interior is nicely done, but seemed a little too Germanic and understated despite the wood-toned center escutheon surrounding the radio and climate controls. I did not like the more slender center console, but I can see that this is what allowed for the nicer (ie: wider) seats.

I was very impressed that this truck was still perfectly screwed together at 21,000 miles, with absolutely zero interior assembly defects, squeaks, buzzes or rattles. The platform seems extremely stiff and the cabin gives the feeling of being encassed in a solid block of steel.

It is difficult for me to compare the ride of this Quad Cab to the previous generation since I have only ever driven one of the earlier design. However, the ride of this 2005 Quad 4x4 was judged to be identical to my 2003 Club Cab at 53K. I think that means the ride might have been improved in the Quad, but I'll let other owners of the last generation to weigh in on this.

I have always found the new generation of the Dakota to be contemporally handsome and good looking except for the front end. I'm finding that the frontal appearance isn't offending my eyes quite as much as it first did, and since I was able to spend some time behind the wheel looking outward I can say that there is so much to like about the new Dak that I could forgive the jutty appearance of the front end. In truth, the only new truck design that I find has a more appealing front end design is the new F150. the Tundra, Titan, and Silverado are even uglier to my aging eye.

Bests,
Dusty

islandboy · January 2006

Hi, all. I have a 2000 Dakata Quad and the engine light came on the other day. Code is P0155. I have read a thread on this and was it Dusty or bpeebles that said the 02 sensors is covered under the 100,000 mile 10 year Fed Emission warranty? But I called my dealer and they said it isnt because it is not the PCM or the Cat Converter. My uncle is a service manager for Dodge and he said it isnt either. What do you think, do I have a position here to argue with the dealer? They charege $105 to do the diagnosis and will probably tell me what I already know, and it will cost $70 to install the O2 sensor. The sensor is $130. How do I know if it is the upstream or downstream sensor? My uncle said that code is the Right Bank upstream 02 sensor. But when I called my dealer they said they cant tell based on the P0155 code whether it is upstream or downstream or left or right?

bpeebles · January 2006

Technically, the Federal government has obligated automakers to ensure that their products meet Federal emmissions standards for a given amount of time. (Federeal Emmissions Warantee) This includes ANY devices which fail and make the CEL come on.

This includes the PCM, cat-converters, O2 sensors... and anthing else they do not specifically mention in the owners manual that needs to be periodically replaced. (ie..PCV valve)

The CEL itself is also a Federally-mandated indicator for the consumer to tell that all the emmissions equipment is working.

=====================

As for the P0155 code you can look it up yourslef at ( http://www.obdii.com/codes.html )

P0155= O2 Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction (Bank 2 Sensor 1)

BANK1=LEFT
BAN2=RIGHT
SENSOR1=upstream
SENSOR2=downstream

Since they are telling you that they cannot tell from the code which O2 sensor is the issue -- they are BONEHEADS!! (or outright lying to you)

HOWEVER: The 2000 Dak was available with BOTH the 2-sensor and the 4-sensor system. (I know this for CERTAIN because I orderd my 2000 Dak from factory and had the option) You need to determine if your Dak has the "pre-cats" or just a single cat.

2-sensor system= just one single cat.
4-sensor system= pre-cats + single cat

thegraduate · January 2006

I hope you will all check out and participate in the comparison of the latest midsize trucks from Toyota, Nissan, Honda, GM, and DODGE. You can find it on your Dodge Dakota forum launch page (where all the forums are listed). It is relatively new, so getting a word or opinion out there will be easy! Is your V-8 Dakota enough to blow away the V-6 cylinders of the competition? Tell about it!

Thanks,

thegrad

mtrialsm · January 2006

Got new tires several weeks ago,,decided on Yokohama Geolander, 255/65/16. These were top rated tires and the price
was right! Well after 3 balances and now I'm told two of the
tires are so out of round they won't ballance!!!!
At least the tire place is replacing the two tires!!!
I've never had this problem before!! Anyone else ever purchase
tires that were out of round?

dustyk · February 2006

Yes. Over the years working in the auto repair business I've seen my share of out-of-round tires. Some makes seem to have more of a problem than others. Although I've had very good experience with the Goodyears that came on my truck, lately I've heard of a few complaints regarding them.

Regards,
Dusty

gallison1 · February 2006

I have a 2002 Quad Cab that I bought in November. I really like the truck, though I would think that I might get better mileage with a 6 cyl,(about 15, part highway, part backroads).
My question is about my tranny. It seems to need to downshift a lot, and takes its time upshifting. On the highway, rolling at about 65, I start up a grade, not serious, but certainly enough to lose speed, and it slows down to about 58 (without any movement on the accelerator) before it will jump down, and then it really revs up. Sometimes I have to put my foot into it a bit, for it to kick down. Normal behavior for a DD 6 cyl?

bpeebles · February 2006

Actually the 4.7L v8 tends to get better MPG than that old V6 which is based on 1960s V8 with 2 cylinders lopped off. There is a very good reason that V6 was retired reciently by DC. (Damlier Chrysler)

evo94 · February 2006

We had an ice storm here in Iowa and I was on my way home at under 20mph. The Dakota went into a slight spin and slid into a curb. No real impact and couldn't have been doing over 5 mph at the time. Axle snapped right off at the wheel, The inside metal of the axle looks like cottage cheese. I called DaimlerChrysler and of course they say nothing is wrong but I just don't think this should have happened. I bought this truck to tow and be a bit rough with, (that's what the brochures says) but a tiny bump? I no longer feel safe with this truck. Anyone out there ever hear of this?

jwctrain · March 2006

I bought a used 03 Quad with the 4.7 auto 5 speed 3.55 gears. My first trip to the dealer at 16k for warranty service they found the diff broken. They replaced it under warranty. Now with 44k I am having all kinds of noises and shudders. Of course it could not be duplicated at the dealer. Anyone else have rear diff problems. approx cost to repair $1200 - 1600 ouch.

bobs5 · March 2006

I am currently searching for new tires for the truck.
Would appreciate any suggestions for new replacement tires.

The truck is equipped with Goodyear Wrangler RTS P265/70/16.

These tires have been somewhat troublesome for me. Too many flats.

I would like to go with an "LT" rated tire. LT265/70/16.
I am hoping that this type tire will be a little more durable.

Any suggestions will be appreciated.
Thanks,
Bob

bpeebles · March 2006

one word in tires NOKIAN!
... and also, NOKIAN!

I have the VATIIVA on my Dakota... they are quiet on the road and have awesome snow traction. (Nokian tires are made in Finland where snow is a way of life.)

I also have NOKIAN tires on my 56MPG volkswagen and have used them on past vehicles. Personally, I would not even CONSIDER any other tire.

Did anyone ever tell you that you DO NOT NEED "LT" tires unless you plan on carring heavy loads for long distances? The "LT" tires add more sidewall stifness.... thus ride like a rock.

bobs5 · March 2006

bpeebles
Thank you for the suggestion.
I'll check them out.

I would be willing to give up a little ride comfort for a more durable tire.

During the first year of ownership of the truck, I had to replace 3 tires because of unrepairable flats near the sidewall area.

dodgetrukn · March 2006

">link titlebs5, ya probably read this.. <a href="http://townhall-talk.edmunds.com/direct/view/.ee9954e/725!keywords=allin:msgtext limit:Dodge:Dakota duelers cut and paste that..although not mentioning of LT..if ya need costco help, I can do that..local 3-4 blocks away for the savings..wife n me got the card.. Ger

kalayak · March 2006

I have a 2000 Quad, with 4.7, auto, replaced tires at 57700 miles with Yokohama Geolander H/T-S, been great.
Have replaced rotors twice, need to do it again, autostore said to try turning the rotors first while they are on the truck before trying to replace again. Never heard of this. Is this worth trying?

bpeebles · March 2006

I also have a 2000 Dakota, (purchased in fall of 1999 BEFORE the Quad was available)

I also have gone thru some Rotors before settling on somthing that works. (Check out what 3 Vermont winters did to my powerslot rotors.)

I have been running Bendix rotors with NAPA "Ceramix" pads. They seem to lasting longer than anything else I have tried AND have much better braking power than stock components. The BONUS is that ceramic-based pads do not leave all that black crud on the front wheels.

To more specifically answer your question, the factory shop manual says that all rorors MUST be turned while mounted on the vehicle. Using this process tends to make for a truer result than turning on a brake lathe.

You did not mention WHY you need to replace the rotors... if they have been warping... you are either using CHEEP mexican rotors, have not been using torque wrench on lugnuts or did not season the rotors when new.

kalayak · March 2006

Thanks for the reply.
The rotors have warped. So, if I get new rotors, do these need to be turned while on the truck? I have been through three sets, none cheap mexician rotors. Any suggestions on seasoning the rotors properly? Thanks, Andrew

bpeebles · March 2006

LINK TO Care -n- feeding of new brake rotors

BTW: Are you CERTAIN that your rotors are really warped? Are you feeling it thru the brake-pedal, steering wheel or just a general pulsing feeling? My rotors often get "cruddy" and need to be cleaned up. (about 4 times a year.)

Try this: Do some VERY heavy braking until some smoke is released.... then DRIVE WITHOUT STOPPING for at least 30 minits to cool things down. You may find that your supposedly "warped" rotors are all fixed. (Because they were NOT warped...just cruddy)

kalayak · March 2006

Thanks for the info.
Do new rotors new to be turned while on the truck?

bpeebles · March 2006

NO! Just degrease them with plenty of IPA (IsoPropolAlcohol) on a paper-towel and DO NOT TOUCH THE BRAKING SURFACE WITH YOUR BARE FINGERS! Even the slightest amount of oils from your fingers can impeade with the seasoning process.(as described in the URL I provided above)

dsweet · March 2006

what can I do to fix this problem? Any assistance would be great, Thanks

dsweet · March 2006

This is the fault that I ment to post the first time, Sorry :shades:

jneal · March 2006

Basically the same things you did back in Aug '05 when you had problems. Same system, smaller leak. If you didn't replace gas cap back then that would be my first step and if that doesn't cure the problem then start by inspecting/repairing all the evaporative system hoses and connections.

dsweet · March 2006

Thanks

jneal · March 2006

You probably are aware of it but when refueling, don't continue to pump after the automatic shutoff on the nozzle kicks off. This can trigger a MIL as the system has to have some space in order to pull a vacumn to test the system. It also can put fuel into the charcoal canister and ruin it.

bpeebles · March 2006

I am afraid you have it backwards. It does not "pull a vacuum" to test the system... instead there is a pressure-pump and it actually applies a slight pressure to the airspace above the fuel in the tank.

Then, there are several tests that are run to ensure that the system can hold that pressure under various conditions.

If those tests fail then the MIL comes on to show the driver that there is a code available. The specific code can be directly referenced to the test that failed. (The federal government mandantes what tests must be done and what codes they will flag if there is a failure.... aka ODBII)

The factory shop manual has very good descriptions about the specifics of each test and what constitutes a "fail". Many of the tests are only run after a "drive"

A "drive" is carefully defined by the Feds....
basicly the engine must be cold when it is started.
reach full-operating temparture.
then be running for a specific amount of time.

Many of the codes will reset themselves if 3 consecutive "drives" do not flag a failure.

jneal · March 2006

Thanks Bruce, I stand corrected. Knew better but other than old age I can't come up with a good excuse for saying it that way.

tindmac · April 2006

Hello all,

I have an '04 Quad Cab. Last week the blower motor only had high speed. Today it stopped completely. It's cold in Cleveland! Any thoughts? WOuld it be a fuse or resistor or does the motor need to be replaced?

Thanks in andvance,

Tindmac

jneal · April 2006

By all means check the fuse first. Assuming the fuse is good I would change the resistor. If the motor is going bad it could be pulling too much current and burning the resistors and finally quit but I would bet on the resistor curing the problem. Lots easier to change and lots cheaper than the blower motor

sunburn · April 2006

It sounds like the blower motor resistor. It's in the air plenum to the left of the blower motor underneath the dash. The part is about $10 at the dealer. Less than 30 min to replace. You can use a volt-ohm meter to check for open circuits in the resistor pack.

attwood · April 2006

Well, you can congratulate me if you wish.
I just bought a 2003 Quad Cab V6 3.9L. It has 88000 kms on it (54 680 miles). High for an 03, but in good shape.
I have 1 week before I have to pick it up. The question is this. Should I anti-up for the extended warranty? This is the Chrysler Gold warranty that covers the powertrain and the non-powertrain components.

So basically, what are the things that are likely to go on this truck?

Any help appreciated.

thanks

Wa

bpeebles · April 2006

Brakes

sunburn · April 2006

In general, you are better off taking the money you would spend on an extended warranty and investing it or just putting it into the bank. If you don't spend it, roll-it over for your next vehicle.

After 65K miles, I've only spent about $610 (US) on non-scheduled maintenance. That was for a heater core ($550), a pinion seal ($50), and a blower resistor ($10). Since the extended warranties I was looking at when new were in the $1000-$1500 range, I'm still well ahead. With the miles you have on your truck, I'm sure the warranty is a bit more.

As far as common problem areas go, front brakes are one. But, I think they came out with an improved brake design in 2003, so you may not have any problems. Another area is balljoints. There was a recall on them. I'm not sure if your 2003 was under that or not. Another common problem is the blower resistor tends to fail. But it's an easy $10 fix.

Kirstie_H · April 2006

A reporter is looking to talk with someone who bought a large suv or truck within the past year and is thinking about trading it in for a smaller vehicle. Please respond to jfallon@edmunds.com with your daytime contact info and vehicle info by Monday, May 1, 2006.

06quad · May 2006

want to install wiring connector kit. dont know hot to repair connector from back of taillight housing.

clarkn · May 2006

Did you find a fix for this problem? I have an 03 and a friend has an 04 with the same problem.

sirbigins · May 2006

Has this happened to you , The bolts for the manifold rust and break causing the gasket to fail, Just had the left side replaced now the same thing happened to the right, what is the cause low quality parts . :mad:

bagwingca · May 2006

Got an '02 quad. Sometimes hard to shift into 1st gear & have to try a higher gear or let truck roll forward a bit. Is this a clutch issue? Linkage issue?

bpeebles · May 2006

Sounds like "normal" operation of a heavy-duty truck transmission.

BTW: There is no "linkage" on a hydrolic clutch...its all liquid. (just like your brakes)

I changed the fluid in my manual xmission (and xfercase and differentials) over to RedLine. Not only was shifting noticibally improved, I also gained 2-4 MPG.

tms7432 · June 2006

just bought an 01 dakota club cab, and within 2 days the MIL indicator light up. these are the codes that are displayed in the odometer, but am unclear where to start fixing. any ideas??

jneal · June 2006

0201 is a code for a problem with fuel injection circuitry on cylinder # 1
0301 is code for misfire detectected on cyl # 1

Could be something as easy as a bad wiring connector or could be the injector itself

dustyk · July 2006

Well, my 2003 Club Cab is going on 70,000 miles.

The 2003s got a different and improved set of brakes and I think perform and last longer than the previous years. As Sunburn mentioned, ball joints were an issue on early '03s. The uppers were covered under warranty and still are. The lowers are not. My suggestion is to grease them periodically regardless.

The heater blower motor resistors are famous for failing. Mopar's gone through three interations of the resistor design. The jury's still out, but as indicated the part is fairly inexpensive and easy to install.

Intermediate steerings shafts have a tendency to get rusty and cause a snapping or clunk in the steering. This was also warranted by Dodge in 4x4s. Not sure about 4x2s.

Let's see, some complaints of premature air conditioning failures due to leaky evaporators, and I'd noted a couple of heater core failures as well. The failure rate seems quite low on these items, though.

Oh, yes. The fuel cap. Older Daks experienced failures which trip the MIL indicator and give a diagnostic trouble code of P0456. 2002s and down also experience the rubber fuel vapor return lines cracking causing a similar code.

Can't think of anything else at the moment.

Best regards,
Dusty

brake4me1 · September 2006

I have an 01 Quad with 90 miles and it seems every 20,000 miles or so I start getting a front end or back end groaning sound that seems to start when I apply the brakes or take a slow turn. Dodge dealer has replaced sway bar bushings on a couple occasions and that seems to take of the problem for about 2 years and then the problem returns. In fact I think I have had a couple of bushing chewed up or almost broken in the past. I never drive off road and am getting a tired of paying to have bushing replaced.

Does anyone know how long sway bar bushing should last and is their anyway to prolong their lifespan. I've read on the board that you can lubricate the bushing but I'm not sure what you use (grease/oil?) and how to apply. I assume you have to get inside the bushing to apply the grease which sound complicated.

Any input would be appreciate cause I'm getting tired of the groaning noise but don't want to pay $123 to replace two front front sway bar bushings again.

Thanks - Brake4me

KCRam · October 2006

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