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Dodge Dakota - FAQs

245

Comments

  • cmickcmick Member Posts: 4
    themacguy is right about the oil filters. I have a '00 club cab slt with the 4.7 and 4 wheel drive. I used to use nothing but Fram but they're not what they used to be. The mobil 1 is a bit more expensive (about $9 at autozone) but I love my truck and I think it's worth it.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    (moparpower1) Check out the SPINTECH muffler. It uses a new technology to take the 'sting' out of the exhaust note while keeping the SOUND.

    http://www.spintechmufflers.com/spintech/index.asp
  • skylerkskylerk Member Posts: 67
    While trying to figure out why the "Homelink" garage door opener built-in to my 2001 Dakota would only work from 30 feet away, I submitted a request for info via the Johnson Controls
    web site at http://homelink.jci.com. They responded via e-mail with the suggestions below. I only needed to do #1 and #4 and my range increased to about 150 feet.

    1. Put a new battery in your hand-held remote. Training the HomeLink takes more power from the battery than when you push the button to open the door. Sometimes by putting a new battery in the hand-held remote, it does help pick up a better train and increases the range.

    2. Retrain the HomeLink at different lengths and angles. Start by holding the hand-held transmitter 3-4 inches away then 5-6, even 6-8 inches from the buttons. Sometimes this helps pick up a better train to HomeLink.

    3. Try a second remote with new batteries.

    4. Straighten the antenna wire that hangs down from the garage door opener motorhead.

    5. Park your vehicle outside of the garage during programming (make sure it is not under the garage door).

    6. Try programming all 3 HomeLink buttons- they are all on different channels.
  • skylerkskylerk Member Posts: 67
    The instructions on pages 15-16 of the 2001 Dakota Owner's Manual for disabling the horn chirp are incorrect because the button names are wrong. (I think the 2000 manual has the same error.)

    Here are the corrected instructions for turning the horn chirp on and off (the words in green/bold are the ones which need to be changed in the manual):

    1. Place the key in ignition and turn the key to the ON position (donot start the engine).
    2. Press and hold the LOCK button on the transmitter for four to ten seconds.
    3. While the LOCK button is pressed, press the PANIC button on the transmitter and then release both buttons.
    4. You will hear a single chime when programming is completed.

    (To give credit where it's due, I must admit that I got these horn chirp instructions from an archived post on the DML.)
  • skylerkskylerk Member Posts: 67
    The instructions on pages 16 of the 2001 Dakota Owner's Manual for "Programming Additional Transmitters" are incorrect. (I think the 2000 manual has the same error.)

    About two-thirds of the way through the instructions, the sentence in the manual which (incorrectly) says...

    "Within thirty seconds, press and release the lock OR unlock button on all transmitters intended for use with this vehicle except the transmitter used to start the programming mode."

    ...should say...

    "Within thirty seconds, press and release the lock AND unlock buttons SIMULTANEOUSLY on all transmitters intended for use with this vehicle except the transmitter used to start the programming mode."

    (I figured this out myself the hard way after I accidentally deprogrammed one of my remotes while trying to discover the correct way to disable the horn chirp.)
  • victxvictx Member Posts: 108
    AWESOME, just did it and it work. Thanks skylerk. Isn't the internet just great. I went to the dealer several times and they couldn't figure it out.
  • quaderquader Member Posts: 1
    Thanks the keyless door lock honk fix worked, now I need help with the all four door unlock on the first press on remote fix. Anybody eles have this problem.
  • 2nddak2nddak Member Posts: 44
    Skyler, and others,

    I had the Farm Bureau just call the "source sequence" number into my dealer since time was short and they accepted that. I never got the $500 voucher to present to the dealer. I assume that the number is what they need to get their cash out of the deal.

    2nddak
  • victxvictx Member Posts: 108
    I didn't do any work for my Farm Bureau discount. My dealer asked for a copy of my FB membership card and that's all, they took care of the rest. BTW, Texas Farm Bureau.

    I got my dealer through autobytel and I was happy with their off of $500 over invoice, so there was no price negotiation. I ordered my truck, so I guess they had plenty of time for them to get the paperwork done.
  • zonkzonk Member Posts: 208
    I tried the new procedure. Never could get the chime indicating the change in the remote lock. How long do you press the panic switch?
  • skylerkskylerk Member Posts: 67
    Reference post 56 <56</A>>

    I pressed the Lock button for 5 seconds, then pressed the Panic button for 1 second, and then released both buttons simultaneously. The chime then sounded almost immediately.
  • skylerkskylerk Member Posts: 67
    If you want to get that "clean" look achieved by removing the decals from your doors and/or tailgate, here's how:

    1. Use a heat gun or blow dryer to heat up the decal.

    2. Use your fingernail to peel up one edge and then slowly pull the whole decal off. You may need to reheat the decal as you go. MOST of the adhesive should come off with the decal.

    3. Soak part of a clean rag with WD-40 and use it to scrub off any remaining adhesive. (Others have suggested using 3M adhesive remover, but I figure most everybody has a can of WD-40 already and it works great.)

    4. Wash and wax the newly exposed paint the same as the rest of your truck.

    WARNING: Do NOT put WD-40 on the decal before you peel it off! I learned the hard way that this causes the decal to separate from the adhesive which leaves you with a LOT more adhesive to scrub off.
  • nthdgreeenthdgreee Member Posts: 24
    How do you re-enable the auto door locks at 15 MPH

    I was able to get them disabled pretty easily but have not been able to get them to start working again, at least with the instructions in my 2001 owners manual. I can't help but think that the manual is giving us the wrong procedure. Anybody out there know how to get it done?
    Thanks
  • skylerkskylerk Member Posts: 67
    Here's the link: http://dodgeram.org/buying_info/Inspect.htm

    There are a few items on this list which are specific to Dodge Ram problems, but most of the list is pretty generic and works just fine for the Dodge Dakota too. Happy Inspecting!
  • greg116greg116 Member Posts: 116
    Can you order the 5-speed manual tranny (4.7 CC 4x4 Sport) with the center console and cupholders?

    Are there any cupholders/storage space left when you order the 40/20/40 split bench in a Club Cab?
  • ayrowayrow Member Posts: 99
    Greg,


    Yes you can. In fact, I have one (2001 QC)

     

    Problem is, however, is that one of the cup holders is right behind the stickshift. If you have anything larger than a soda can in there, it will be crushed by the stick when you shift into 2nd or 4th gear.


    A horrible design that Dodge should've corrected, but did not because most people do not get the manual trans.


    You can sorta see pictures of it at my seat-mod page.


    http://www.ayrow.com/seats.html

  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    (ayrow) This is not a problem on my 2000 Dak with 4.7L V8 Hemi and 5sp manual tranny. I did hear that the 2001 has this problem though.
  • greg116greg116 Member Posts: 116
    Good move! The power 6-ways in our 98 "D" are EXCELLENT designs, I could sit in them all day! And I have - literally! 14 hours to Winnipeg from Calgary and back again. I thought they were the same seats, only cloth instead of leather covering. Are the leather seats on the QC any different? I find myself wondering if i'm going to be comfortable enough in a new Dak CC.

    I noticed those arent power seats. Is there a way to adjust the tilt of the seat bottom without power 6-ways (stock Dakota 40/20/40 seats)? I have very long legs and thigh support is important to me, as I like taking long highway trips.

    And again, are there any cupholders left when you order the bench seat? Also very important.
  • bmwnomad1bmwnomad1 Member Posts: 1
    I just bought a dark green '98 Dakota Club Cab with 3.9 engine and 3 speed auto. It has overhead computer, step, matching cap. Very nice truck, a lot of curb appeal. Guess that's why I bought it. I didn't know about this website before buying this truck. If I knew then what I know now, I probably would not have bought it. I would have been looking for a stick shift, or a 5 speed auto, and a 4.7 or 5.9 V8. As I read on other posts, the gas milage for the engine/tranny combo truck is my only disappointment so far. Can't seem to get over 16 mpg highway. Motor seems excessively busy, like the shift points get stuck in low. I don't know what the rear end ratio is. I like the truck, it always gets favorable comments, but... Is there anything to do about this?
    It is great reading from all you Dakota people. Looks like I may be joining your group.
    Thanks.
    bmwnomad
  • ayrowayrow Member Posts: 99
    Greg,


    I'm not sure why your post (that I saw before) came back up again. I still don't understand the questions(s), so I'll do my best to answer.


    No, the seats are not power. They can only be adjusted like normal seats with the exception that the driver's seat has a lumbar support adjustment.


    As far as the bench seat is concerned, I have no idea since I never had the bench seat, nor do I have any intentions on intalling one. I had buckets and simply upgraded to leather buckets found in the Durango.


    Again, if there is anyone out there that missed it, you can check it out here:

    http://www.ayrow.com/seats.html


    Hope this helps.

  • gilbouchergilboucher Member Posts: 4
    I have a 00 Dakota 3:55 axle, auto, V-6 Club Cab. Does anyone know how much I can really tow with this? I have to get a 1963 Chrysler 300 J from Buffalo N.Y. to Massachusetts. I'm guessing the trailer weighs about 1700 lbs. and the car without the engine weighs about 3500 lbs. I don't have the trailer towing pkg (I know, I wasn't thinking when I ordered it) and I was going to have U-Haul install a hitch. Am I crazy or can this be done?
    Thanks
  • bobs5bobs5 Member Posts: 557
    I think that weight may be a little too much for the truck as equipped.
    My 4x4, 4.7L V8, 5 spd, 3.55 axle, has a maximum tow rating of 4800 lbs if I remember correctly.
    good luck
    Bob
  • bookittybookitty Member Posts: 1,303
    Gil, the GCWR (Gross Combination Weight Rating) for your vehicle is 8,800 pounds. This is for an unloaded vehicle with standard equipment and a 150
    pound driver. You take this weight and deduct it from the 8,800 lbs. The remainder is the amount of allowable weight of the trailer and payload. In your particular case, given the figures as estimated by you, the payload is 5,200 lbs. Deducted from the GCWR of 8,800 lbs, it leaves 3600 lbs for the vehicle with driver. Unfortunately, I don't have any curb weight figures. A class III receiver from U-Haul or other provider will do just fine. Caution, never tow in overdrive.

    Bookitty
  • rogersherrogersher Member Posts: 1
    I own a 1995 Dakota 4x4, I've had the front axle seal replaced 3 times and still leaks grease. The Dodge dealer says the bearing is good and doesn't know why it still leaks. Has anyone else had this problem?

    Thanks
    Roger
  • dpeppedpeppe Member Posts: 6
    Does anyone know the sequence to enable the door locks at 15 MPH. I tried what the manual says, but I believe it is in correct as it is for the horn chirp when locking the truck. Thanks in advance.
  • bcarter3bcarter3 Member Posts: 145
    I don't recall any posts from owner's that have had problems with enabling the auto door locks. My 01 came with this feature activated and I haven't messed with it so I don't know if the instructions are incorrect.
    The "horn chirp" instructions though, are incorrect. Where it says to "Press and hold the UNLOCK button on the transmitter for four to ten seconds" change UNLOCK to LOCK. Where it says "While the UNLOCK button is pressed, press the LOCK button on the transmitter and then release both buttons" change UNLOCK TO LOCK and LOCK to PANIC. Credit this to skylerk from his post of 14 Nov 00. Good luck!
  • bcarter3bcarter3 Member Posts: 145
    For a clearer discription of the corrections for the "horn chirp" scroll back to post #55. Also check out post #56.
  • skylerkskylerk Member Posts: 67
    The instructions for turning on and off automatic door locking above 15 mph on pages 13-14 of the 2001 Dakota Owner's Manual are incorrect.

    To get the correct instructions, all you have to do is change step 2 so that the phrase "...ending in the ON position" instead says "...ending in the OFF position".

    In case you don't want to go dig out your manual, here are the complete, corrected instructions which I have verified to work on my 2001 Dakota (the word in green/bold is the one which needs to be changed in the manual):

    1. Close all of the doors.
    2. Place the key in ignition and cycle the key from the OFF position to the ON position for a total of four times ending in the OFF position, do not start the engine.
    3. Press the driver's side power door lock switch to lock the doors within 30 seconds.
    4. You will hear a single chime when programming is completed and the automatic door locks feature will be deactivated.
    5. To activate the feature again, follow the above steps again.
  • dpeppedpeppe Member Posts: 6
    Thanks for the correction to the manual for enabling the door locks. I was at the dealer the other day and they enabled it for me. You think they would have said that the manual was wrong.
  • skylerkskylerk Member Posts: 67
    Page 15 of the 2001 Dakota Owner's Manual has the instructions for changing the remote unlock button between unlocking all doors or unlocking just the driver's door on the first press. I have found that those instructions work much more consistently with the following clarifications:

    The system may be programmed to unlock all the doors, on the first press, using the following procedure:
    1. Close all of the doors.
    2. Place the key in the ignition and turn the key between the OFF and ON position consecutively for a total of four times ending in the ON position (do not start the engine). The first three times you turn the key ON, you only need to wait for a single chime before turning the key OFF again. The fourth time you turn the key ON, wait for all six chimes to completely finish before proceeding to step 3.
    3. Press the driver's side power door lock switch to unlock the doors and within 30 seconds to lock the doors.
    4. You will hear a single chime when programming is completed.
    Repeat steps 1 through 4 to reprogram the system to unlock only the driver's door on the first press.
  • fat_fendersfat_fenders Member Posts: 96
    sky,

    I appreciate the info on the remote unlocking. However, it didn't work on my 01 Quad Sport 4X4. Wonder if anyone else has had any luck?

    I tried every possible combination of your instructions and still one push opens all doors. Seems like some of these trucks might be set up different. By the way, I do NOT have the D/C security system. Maybe there's the difference???

    fat_fenders
  • ibhottubnibhottubn Member Posts: 29
    MIKE,

    I have 2001 quad , its a week old now. mine was setup to open all 4 doors when you hit the unlock button. i just set it up to open the drivers door with 1 push & all 4 with the second push. in my owners manual, third edition, pg 16 is correct. all you need to do is disable the 4 door unlock mode !!! follow steps 1-6 on pg 16 & it will disable the system to work as you want it, i just did it myself !!!

    good luck,

    tom !!!!!!
  • maceymacey Member Posts: 59
    After my new QC (AWD/4.7/3.92/Auto/LSD) has 500 miles on the engine, I want to do some basic mods for more power:

    1)Cold Air Induction System:
    I understand Mopar has a system, what OEM offers the the best system and price, where on the WEB can I see that info and are these systems 50 state legal? Also, this does includ a 'supercharger' filter, right?

    2)Performance Computer:
    Same as above, Mopar offers one, where can I get a better price and maybe better performance

    3)Cat-back exhaust:
    I think Mopar makes one, looking at Gibson's Sport Truck Side Dual Exhaust, any other alternatives in the same price range with the same power increase, if not more.

    4)Synthetic Oil/Mobil 1 Oil Filter:
    Gonna try something called Purple ?
    It advertises either 5 or 5% more HP, claims it is
    a performance synthetic...thouhgts on best oil and filter?

    Did I miss any 'cheap' mods to add, like a 180 degree thermostat (any real benefit to this or no issues with introducing problems to the engine mgmt system?)

    With the above mods, a easy 250HP, 320 ft/lbs of torque is what I'm thinking, if not slightly more, possibly with a increase in gas mileage.

    Thanks.
  • skylerkskylerk Member Posts: 67
    ibhottubn, you have the Third Edition of the 2001 Owner's Manual and you said your reprogramming instructions work as written in the manual. Great!

    I just looked and discovered that I have the First Edition of the 2001 Owner's Manual -- so all of my previous posts about Owner's Manual corrections pertain only to the First Edition.

    With all the grief I've been through trying to discover the reprogramming instructions by trial and error, I wonder if I can get Dodge to give me a "corrected" Third Edition manual to replace my inaccurate First Edition manual, or (probably) will they make me pay for it?
  • mick55_usamick55_usa Member Posts: 1
    I am thinking about buying a quad cab but I will be pulling a car and trailer with it. I know with the 360 cu in engine that it will pull the load with no problems. I am concern about stopping the load, I know it says equipped with the towing package it will handle 6300 lbs. The trailer I will be pulling the trailer weighs about 1500 lbs and the car weights 3300 lbs. and the trailer has brakes. Has anyone pulled this kind of weight and did you have any problems. What if the trailer brakes quit working would the quad cab be able to stop it in a emergency. Thanks for any help with this.
  • bookittybookitty Member Posts: 1,303
    Mike, the truck should be able to stop the load under emergency situations. Panic stops may present a more defined problem. Of course panic stops even with the trailer brake operating are more problematic. I have not pulled this weight with my current Quad, but have on occasion pulled
    a large boat (too large) with my '95 Club cab without benefit of trailer brakes. I was however, very careful how I applied the brakes.

    Bookitty
  • hennehenne Member Posts: 407
    i have the 4.7, auto, hd towing package, 3.92 rear and i used the uhaul flat trailer at 1200lbs and a 3500lb car loaded on it and i handled the load without any problems. it didnt even downshift going up hill, i could even accelerate going up some of them (i hope you already know not to tow in overdrive). i agree with bookitty that the truck will stop the load if the trailers brakes go out but in emergency situations it might get a little tough. but it will stop as good as most any other truck pulling it in the same situation.

    Happy towing.

    robert
  • gsagnewgsagnew Member Posts: 10
    I have a 2000 Dakota Club Cab, 4.7 V8 Auto tranny with 13,500 miles. Basically I have been pleased with the vehicle's sophisticated brute strength and ability to pass cars that insist on traveling 15 miles below the posted speed limit.

    Today for the first time I had to pass several slow cars at one time. I punched the accelerator pretty hard and without realizing it I was approaching 100 MPH when all of a sudden the engine seemed to shut off. When I slowed down to 80 the engine was running again. This is the first time I pushed my truck up to that speed (accelerated to 100 MPH). Has anyone else experienced that same situation? Please advise.

    Thanks,

    George
  • bobs5bobs5 Member Posts: 557
    My guess is you probably hit the speed or rev limiter.
  • bookittybookitty Member Posts: 1,303
    George, no guess you did hit the speed/RPM computer controlled limiter. Please slow down, we need all the folks we can muster on this forum.

    Bookitty
  • gsagnewgsagnew Member Posts: 10
    So I guess with the speed/rev limiter on our vehicles, we are limited to to a top end of 97-100mph and that is all she wrote?
  • bookittybookitty Member Posts: 1,303
    George, driving a truck at those speeds, may literally become "all she wrote." Take it easy and enjoy life. These are not qualified racing vehicles and most of us are not qualified race drivers. Even if one is qualified, professionals recognize the fact that road conditions do not allow the type of speed normally maintained under track conditions.

    Bookitty
  • gsagnewgsagnew Member Posts: 10
    Hello Bookitty,

    I certainly agree with you. I am not one to constantly test either my or my vehicle's limits. I simply was not aware of these "limiters" and that they actually can govern a vehicle's speed. The point I was trying to make was that there are times that the extra horsepower and extra punch our trucks have can actually be safety factor when passing or trying to avoid a hazardous situation. Of course we all must use this power judiciously and with good judgement.

    I agree that we all need to slow down in all aspects of life and not just on the highway. I just wish that all drivers would at least try their best to maintain the "posted" speed limits within 5mph either way. At least it would make commuting a little more pleasant. I must admit however, learning patience on my part is a skill I need to improve on.

    Thanks for your kind words of wisdom Bookitty.

    George
  • urban3urban3 Member Posts: 74
    What are the transmission and power steering coolers and how do they work? As optional equipment, under what circumstances are they useful?
  • slickwilliedjslickwilliedj Member Posts: 252
    you did hit the speed limter just like have on several occasions.(not hard to due when the speed limit is 70-75mph in fla and if you pass a car 90mph something is pretty easy to ge taround them quickly. if you watched your revs you'll notice the truck is know where close to over rev. the main reason for the speed limter on cars/trucks is due to the tires and there speed ratings the q/c comes with S rated tires which are good for a sustain speed of no more then about 100mph however, if you where to up grade say to H or V tire you should be able to increase the speed limiter by having the computer reprogramed.....i'm researching this now
  • ohc_babyohc_baby Member Posts: 116
    The limiter can be changed between 97 and 115, but that's it. Trucks with Tire/Handling are good to 115. I think that 97 and 98 trucks set the speed limiter by using the different tire sizes (revs/mile) on the DRBIII scantool, but now it's a separate function. If you put higher speed-rated tires on, the dealer can bump your limiter up to 115 if you're 99+, otherwise you have to choose between accurate speedo or limiter.
  • slickwilliedjslickwilliedj Member Posts: 252
    re speed limiter... i have the t&h pkg and my speed limiter is set at about 100mph. there are peformance computers/chips that will allow you adjust you speed limiter more then just a couple mph or remove it all together.....
  • decentman4youdecentman4you Member Posts: 27
    Does anybody know who and or where this can serice can be performed? Are there any good links-on the net for places to purchase this chip? is this user-replaceable? Does the Dealership do this for you for a charge? Does removing the Limiter 'Void' your warranty? Is having a Limiter a good thing? Like if you are needing that speed and/or horsepower at a particular moment, and the engine dies?--what does it do? I have not been at that speed yet-over 100mph, though I have had the oppurtunity to get a ticket for speeding 90 in a 70 on I-45 between Houston & Dallas, I took the DDC course to get rid of that ticket :-) I have a QC 'amber-fire' 4x4 Awd/lsd 4.7L 3.55 fully loaded, T&H pkg an I have the Title :-)
    James
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    sorry about the all bold... slip of the keyboard.
    I have removed the offending append.
  • bobsyveebobsyvee Member Posts: 63
    Does BOB have anything to say about the computer used on the 4.7 Hemi. Is the eeprom replacable or does it only get flashed.

    Jim H
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