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Dodge Dakota - Club Cab
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Comments
I have 2000 4.7l,4X4, auto with 20K miles on it. Gas mileage never got better than 16miles/gal. I have cab and always some weight on the back. Pretty happy so far. Last winter I noticed that foaming and moisture in oil filling tube. I called the dealer, of course it's normal. This winter besides that there is also brown, rusty sludge on the walls and cap. I tried my dealer again, not to worry it's normal. After calling few other dealers around, I decided to call Chrysler. All the sudden there is a problem, and they have a kit to fix it. As you already know the cap and baffle. If your dealer pretends, he doesn't know what you talking about tell him to go on his computer to TSB and go to post#0900100A, this should open his eyes. Other posts worth attention are #0900999 (ticking noise) and 0802200A (camshaft position sensor). I was trying to fix ticking noise since I bought the truck, nobody at service could hear it, as always. Never found any noise from camshaft. Maybe changing cap and baffle will help, but other thing worth consideration is switching into synthetic oil. I heart that regular oils can absorb some moisture and this will change their characteristics. Synthetic supposedly repeals all moisture. I was always skeptical about synthetic oil and proffered frequent oil changes, but maybe it's time to change. Did anybody changed air filter with K&N. If so, have you noticed any improvement in gas mileage and power, also where did you buy it?. Last thing. I broke one of the fog lights. Dealer wants almost $100. I thing this is ridiculous, for such a piece of... Did anybody get them after market or decent brand that fits opening in the bumper. Thanks for attention. Good luck with your trucks!
Sludge in oil filler - continued-- I got the replacement filler cap and baffle about 1500 - 2000 miles ago, just after my last oil change. When I got gas last time the oil filler neck was fuller than normal with brown/yellow gunk. Now it not only collects on the side of the tube but collects all over the baffle too! I'm going to try Mobile one next oil change along with the Mopar filter. Rick
Also, I know my truck wasn't been fully broke in yet but, getting about 10-11 mpg in town, and 13-15 highway. Looking forward to that hopefully improving in the future. Might have to look into some of the new intake systems. Other than that, this truck is great! Love the looks and power.
What is the BIGGEST design-related complaint you have with your truck besides fuel economy? i.e: Rear seat too small, engine underpowered, seatbelts rub funny etc etc... Tell me all!
As far as the impression that the seats are different, with the arm rest down, it makes things snugger for us big guys and with it up, it intrudes into shoulder area with the seat all the way back. On problem that I had with the factory console was that I tried to open one while in the seat and found that it was diificult to get things in and out of it without being in an awkward driving position. I had found several nice units at placed like Wal-mart and other places that have sliding lids. Just have to find the perfect one and convince my wife.
I have a 1998 2WD CC with 5.2l and 5-speed. I have 14k well coddled miles. I love this truck.
The other morning it was 10°F and the truck did not crank. I turned the key and all I got was a relay clicking. The lights were bright and did not dim when I turned the key.
The truck ran fine the day before.
I jumped the battery with a motorcycle battery with 1/2 charge and the truck cranked like crazy and started right up! There is no way this tiny battery started a 5.2l V8. The truck started 2-3 times during the day w/o problem.
The next day the truck started fine, but it was not as cold. The day after it was also below 10°F and the truck did not start. Again, jumping with the motorcycle battery did the trick.
I took it to the dealer and they checked the battery and charging system. All OK. They also cleaned the connections and grounds. They were fine too.
I am sure there is a component, like a relay that malfunctions in the cold and a few more volts makes it start. In order to get the dealer to fix it I will have to leave it at the dealer when it is 10°F out. This can be a challenge.
Has anyone had a similar problem? Any ideas what the faulty component is? All help is appreciated.
Drive Safe,
Joe
Bookitty
This means that the BATTERY is not at fault. Instead, There is a poor connecion between battery and starter. This could be anything between the +battery terminal and the starter motor (or) -battery and engine block.
Some simple tests with a DVM (Digital Volt Meter) while it is acting up would isolate the trouble in no time.
One other question, does anybody know if a person can receive another dealer survey directly from Dodge. I told my dealer that I was unhappy with how my purchase went down, he told me to bring in my survey when I received it in the mail. Well, I brought it in without it filled out, he ushered me to service and I got a free bed liner. I am appreciative that I got a free bed liner, however I was still unable to fill out the survey, because he took off as soon as I gave it to him. I would like to get another survey but I am not sure if I can get one or how to go about getting one. Once again any help would be appreciated. Thanks
- It amazes me, although it shouldn't, the stupid s**t some dealers pull. Your survey is already at DC filled out with a perfect score I'm sure. What I would do is contact DC customer service listed in your manual, explain the situation (leave out the bedliner) and request a new survey to tell the real story about these shysters.
Don
On the other hand, the 3.92 is good and bad for all the things I mentioned above. You can tow more and burn more, but not just rubber.
In a nutshell: 3.55= Standard duty and highway cruising, 3.92= Towing and acceleration.
-donamy- I have not looked into exact placement of the sensors on the Daks, but they are commonly mounted low, inline with the bumpers. So, if you peeled everything back above the bumpers w/o damaging the lower area you probably missed the sensors. Airbag systems have become one of the most reliable systems in cars. The sensors a designed with gold contacts to resist corrosion and some systems even have redundant circuits inside the control box, which is usually in the more hospitable environment of the interior of the car. Though they have gotten bad rap in the media, coupled with seat belts, they greatly increase your chances of walking away from an accident.
Bookitty
along with the rebate. Click on this link to access the Farm Bureau, and go to states. PA cost for enrollment is $75.00 and one must be a member for 30 days prior to delivery. http://www.fb.com. Look under "Member Benefits."
Bookitty
Regards,
Norm (Bookitty)
oh details about the truck, dark garnet red with silver two-tone, 4.7liter, 3.92 rear, slt plus decor, hd package, overhead console, limited slip, cd/cassette, body mouldings, auto, buckets, and other stuff i can't remember
Bookitty
Bookitty
I too, have the 5SP manual tranny and it is flawless. Never a missed shift or slow response in -10F temps.
I do have one question about your choice of engine. Why the V6? This 1960's based engine gets LESS MPG than the 4.7L V8 Hemi and has been reported as being underpowered for the weight of the truck.
If you expect to be "living" with this truck for a long time... you should consider the 4.7L V8 Hemi.
BTW... Trying to SELL a 2WD truck in Vermont is like selling screen doors to a submarine factory.
I notice at the dealership some Daks have bigger rear drums than others. Which option group upgrades them like that? Or is that just standard on 4x4s?
Also, "underpowered" is a relative term. My mother's 1990 Caravan 3.0L is gutless in my book, but just fine for her. BTW my favorite IS the 4.7.
With some miles on your rig, the fuel savings alone make the 4.7L less expensive to own than the V6.
The 318ci may be a "proven" design as you say. It has been "proven" to be inneffecient and is "proven" to have some other problems too.
The 287ci passed YEARS of severe torture-testing before it was first offered in the 1999 JeepGrandCherokee. There have been an extremly small number of "problems" reported since it has been in produciton. It is going to be offered as an option in the new-design RAM for 2002.
BTW...Since you referred to the 318ci... I chose to refer to the 4.7L as the 287ci for comparison.
One should consider the 4.7L V8 Hemi "proven" at this point.
THe AUTOMATIC xmission that is available with the 4.7L is problematic... and the suggested maintenance schedule for this transmission will make it quite expensive to maintian. (If one chooses to NOT follow the maintence schedule... it would likely self-distruct)
TD
Orlando
For the next few years at least my Dakota will be my transportation here in Louisiana. I cannot see carrying the weight and warring the mechanicals of 4WD. Even in the northern winter (I'm from upstate NY) their are many days when you just need a bit more traction. So thats why I went for the Anti spin axle. For the 1/2 year that is not the mud or snow season I am very comfortable. During the mud and snow season anti spin can be a wonderful assistance though not as good as 4WD.
I choose the V6 though I thought about the 4.7 V8. For most of the time I will not be carrying heavy loads so don't need the power of the V8. I thought the 4.7 with all its technology was a bit too new for my comfort. And the I4 is certainly underpowered. So for those reasons I choose the V6.
Is your present Eagle an AMC Eagle or the spin-off Eagle brand vehicle? My second 4x4 was an AMC Eagle. The galvanized body is the ONLY car I have owned that never rusted through 10 Vermont winters.... Too bad the frame was crumbling at that point. The same inline 6 engine is STILL used in Jeep vehicles... NOW THAT IS A PROVEN ENGINE!!
I will be DEFINATLY replacing my front rotors with high-quality units when they become unusable.
Here is a suggestion.
SSBrakes
Does ANYONE buy a Dakota with a 4 cyl anymore? I havent seen anyone on these message boards that has one. I would imagine they sell very few of them. Almost every Dak i've seen on the road has the V6 or V8 badge. I think the only one was the delivery truck for Crowfoot Dodge in Calgary AB, a base-model regular-cab that probably didnt even have A/C (understandably).
If someone does have one, please speak up! How is it?
Additinoally, the 1960's based V6 has horrendous emmissions... again as noted on the EPA stickers in the windows.
Lets look at some numbers;
assumptions; (your numbers may vary)
V6 = 16MPG
4.7L V8 Hemi = 18 MPG
20,000 miles driven per year
cost of fuel = $1.45 / Gallon
20,000 / 18 = 1111 <== annual gallons to run the 4.7L V8 Hemi
20,000 / 16 = 1250 <== annual gallons to run the V6
1111 * $1.45 = $1610.95 <== annual fuel cost to run the 4.7L V8 Hemi
1250 * $1.45 = $1812.50 <== annual fuel cost to run the V6
$1812.50 - $1610.95 = <B>$201.55
Gee.... since my 4.7L V8 Hemi cost me $502 + 4% (522.08), after about 3 years I will be saving money. (based on if I had that 1960's based V6)
Now you tell me why ANYONE would want that ol' V6 in their personal vehicle?
After having owned both, there is not a single doubt in my mind that the 4.7 is the only choice for the informed buyer.