Dodge Dakota - Club Cab

ihsalways · March 2001

Spent 40 years so far around trucks & P/U's. Regardless of what any "specs" say, it's ignorant to pull anything heavier than about 1 Ton w/ ANY little (i.e., V-6) gasoline eng., or to load any P/U w/ the little engines w/ more than a half Ton of stuff-- ESPECIALLY if multiple stops & starts and/or grades are involved, ESPECIALLY above about 5,000' MSL. Just not enough torque, and result will be poor performance and/or reduced engine and/or drive-line life. Dumb, dumb, dumb!

bast1 · March 2001

I own a 1999 Dakota 2w slt club V6. I have the tire and handling group with P255/65R15. I have averaged 13.7 over two years . My driving is all local . I agree with you . The mileage stinks . Other then mileage I have no complaints . I've been back to Dodge also , with same the results as you . Enjoy the truck and ignor the mileage . You can't change it anyway .

eng6ine · March 2001

I just cannot make up my mind. I should start by saying that I will be coming from a 4cyl 5spd Mazda B2300 that is OK. I am not really going to work the truck, as a matter of fact I plan to put a cap on the bed and put in one of those carpet like bed liners in it. I live in Philadelphia so I will not be getting the 4x4, I will however get the 3:55 rear with limited slip(anti-spin). One of my biggest concerns is this new-generation 4.7L V8, are there any big problems with it. From what I have read the V6 is very dependable, even though it is old technology, will it still pass the newer emisions test down the road, after 50,000+ miles. I should mention I am not a lead foot, all I want to be able to do is merge on to a busy I95 a little better than my four banger does. If I feel that I need a little more power in the V6 are there inexpensive ways to do this, e., K&N air filter, CAT back system(does the V6 sound good with this on?). Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks.

spike50 · March 2001

eng6ine - Although the 4.7L is new to the Dakota since model year 2000, I think it was offered in the '99 Jeeps. It may be a good idea to check out any Jeep (ewer models) forums to get more of a historical perspective on the 4.7L.

It seems for the most part, everyone is happy with the 4.7L except for the 15-18 mpg (depending on 4WD or 2WD). Can't say that I've noticed many posts by V-6 owners but one or two have mentioned an incurable per-ignition knock and somewhat anemic "get-up and go".

Depending on your timing, DC should be offering a "new design" 3.7L V-6 in the future. This may provide you with the best of both worlds (a ewer engine design V-6 and better gas mileage).

I have a '00 QC SLT, 4.7L, 5sp, 3.55 LSD, soft tonneau cover, T/H and HD group and with no other mods average 15.85 mpg on regular gas in south central PA.

choov · March 2001

I have a 2000 Dakota, 4x4 w/4.7 engine. Last October, the check engine light came on and I took it in to my dealer who replaced the trans range sensor. In Jan 01, the light came on and they again replaced the trans range sensor. In late Feb the light came on and again they replaced the trans range sensor. This time it lasted about 2 weeks and yet again the same light came on. This time they said the technician forget to clear the error messages from the computer and they reset the light. I had the truck in twice last week for the same problem and twice this week. So far, they've replaced the TCM, another trans range sensor, and yesterday the ignition switch and I get my truck back again this morning. Unfortunately, my local Dodge service and the Dodge technical assistance line they've been working with have NO clue. I love my truck but WOW. Anyone heard of similar problems or with any insight? Thanks.

dsvanned · March 2001

I just picked up the 2001 oak that I ordered on Feb 24th and did I have a surprize. I negotiated a price $500 over MSRP based on Edmunds site. Well when I got to the dealer to pick it up I sat in it and the dealer said "now is when you should be smiling: I wasn't because their were things I didn't want to order. They ended up ordering the ST Plus package (power windows, power door locks, remote locking system, tire and handling package). The price DID NOT Change they sold it to me for what I negotiated. Then I started smiling. Chrysler Finance also met the lowest rate I got elsewhere. Now I am really smiling.

Happy Motoring.

bobs5 · March 2001

I would try another service department as the one your currently dealing with can't seem to find the real problem.
Otherwise press for a buyback or file under lemon law.
good luck,
Bob

bobs5 · March 2001

Welcome aboard the dakota ride.
Hope all goes well for you and the truck.

namfflow · March 2001

I called Chrysler on Thursday the 29th. They told me my truck was D-1 (scheduled to be built) and that it would ship on the 30th. The next day. They said it could take up to a month for it to arrive at the dealer.

Does this story sound about right? I hope it gets here before the end of April. I am counting on the rebate as part of my down.

bcarter3 · March 2001

I believe the average time from order to delivery is currently about 30 days. The factory and the dealer will usually cover their butts by giving you "worst case" times. Shipping should not take more than about 10 days. Good luck!!!

namfflow · March 2001

At first it seemed odd that it would take less than a day to build then I thought about like the engineer that I am. With today's manufacturing, assuming something doesn't go haywire, it only takes a few hours to build.

BTW, just for those thinking of buying one. This is Dakota number 2 for me. My other one is a 97 CC with 5.2 SLT 2WD equipted pretty much like the new one. In short loaded

It has been pretty much trouble free. When new a couple of trim issues and at about 20 something thousand miles the cat convert went out. Thats about it. So far I have, after many mopars only one dog so far, a 76 Dodge Van.

dsvanned · April 2001

I don't want to leave the wrong impression. The negotiated price for my Dakota was $500 over INVOICE NOT over MSRP. The add-on options I did not order but which they put on amount to an additional $780. So effectively I guess the end cost for my Dakota was $280 under invoice.

As for delivery times I placed my order on 2/17/01. It arrived at the dealer on 3/29/01.

corin1 · April 2001

I have a 2001 Dakota with the 4.7l V8. It only has 5000 miles and I am getting a bad spark knock when the engine is under load. Does anyone know if this can be fixed like they did the 3.9l V6?

spike50 · April 2001

Although I have no personal experience, I did read in a magazine that sometimes the knock isn't a pre-ignition knock. It talked about cavitation in the head's cooling channels due to high temperatures. I've always associated cavitation with vaccums around propeller tips but what do I know. It mentioned that the person had this knock no matter what octane gas was used, therefore something else was causing it. Remedy was was to lower the engine temp slightly with a lower temp thermostat.

steve234 · April 2001

Cavitation means to make holes. In this case, it is air bubbles in a stream flow that causes damage. (In a boat, it is the prop grabbing air and not water.) Here, it is the transfer heat getting high enough that it boils the air out and creates air pockets. This will eventually create small holes in the metal. If left too long, it can destroy an engine. I deal with 200 HP centrifugal pumps that have this problem if not maintained properly. I also have BIL that lost his diesel truck engine because he waited to put an additive in his radiator and holed a piston.

ohc_baby · April 2001

The first thing to do before you take your truck in for service with a 'check engine light' is to pull the code yourself so you have an idea of what you're facing. To do this, you need only to cycle the ignition 3 times (run-stop-run-stop-run) and watch the odometer for the codes. You can look up the four-digit code at http://www.obdii.com or find them in any service manual. It's incredibly helpful to know what's wrong when you walk in the door.

dewdog1 · April 2001

I just ordered a 2001 dodge Dakota club cab. There are 2 things that I made a mistake with the order. I should have ordered the V8 and the SLT package does not come with Fog Lights installed. Does anyone know how easy it is to install Fog lights on the vehicle?

spike50 · April 2001

Yep, should have gotten the V-8.

Many have added the factory foglights afterwards. I think the lights, wiring and new main light switch are around $120 but better check on that. I added non-factory Catz MSC 3.5" dia. foglights. It was a "labor of love". Probably the best way to add non-factory lights would be to attach a safari bar on front of truck first and use that as your hanger for the new lights (fogs and/or driving).

namfflow · April 2001

Well, checked with Union-Pacific railroad and my 2nd CC should be off-loaded at Benicia California on Monday. I would say that my dealer should have it by Wednesday. I expect to be able to pick it up on Saturday. Boy this will be an all day affair. I will be inspecting it IAW the Dodge Ram Checklist that someone else mentioned on these forums and need to haggle my trade-in and financing stuff.

Wish me luck, I will be one tired camper by the time I get out of there.

So next week I should be a 2 Dakota man. One blue and silver and one red and silver.

choov · April 2001

Thanks for the insight. They replaced the ignition switch and after about 200 miles, it's seems to be ok. Service Dept said Dodge has had problems with bad grounds in some of the ignition switches. Who knows but so far so good.

dewdog1 · April 2001

Thanks for the info spike50. I called the dealer and they said that there is a OEM Fog Light Installation kit with Instuctions for $117. I am pretty sure I will have to cut the inserts out. I will keep everyone posted on the gas mileage I get with the 3.9L V6.

camdude · April 2001

I currently own a 99 Dakota SLT club 4x2. I love the truck, however it is not fulfilling my needs. I
have two children who currently ride in booster seats and the room is pretty tight. As they grow, it will only get tighter. Anyway, I will eventually be moving to a slightly higher elevation and will be in need of a 4X4. I do not want anything smaller than a 3/4, as for the resale and payload. Here is my delema: When I am at play, I do medium to medium heavy hauling but may need to haul
heavier cargo, as per my move. Also with the gas prices soaring in CA, diesel fuel is significantly cheaper. So, I am indecisive as to which brand and type of cumbustible engine. I kind of like the sound of both types, each has its own.... how should I say... (arh arh arh). Its basically power vs torch. Reliability is of utmost importance. I will also be using this vehicle to and from work 8 miles one way, which is a lot of cold runs.
Any advice is appreciated.

If this was discussed earlier, just point me to the message out of the 273.

Thanx

tuvtest · April 2001

My .02$. It sounds like you would be a good canidate for the Cummins Turbo Diesel. If you can hold out through the summer, Dodge is comming out with a Quad Cab Ram which might just be perfect for your needs. I saw one at the Auto Show, and it is one sweet ride.

namfflow · April 2001

The poster was interested in a 3/4 ton. The 2002 Ram change is only on the 1/2 ton 1500 series. He will have to wait til 2003 for the 3/4 changes. Might be worth it might not be, who knows at this point.

I would suggest taking this post over to one of the Ram postings. The Ram owners are in a better position to help you. There are pros and cons to any drivetrain choice. With the diesal you get massive torque but it is slow. Personally if I was gonna do this I would look at the V10 but that is just me. I like speed.

steve234 · April 2001

When you say slightly higher elevation, that may be a question mark. Some diesels are not great ever 5k feet. Personally, with a lot of mileage being short runs, I would go for the gas engine. Depends on the loads you will be hauling. If you are doing less than 4000 lbs on a trailer or 1000 lbs in the bed for less than 20% of the driving, you could go to a Dakota Quad cab and be fine. Your best bet is to look at the area you are moving to and look at what the favorite work vehicle is. That may give you numerous clues as to what works in that climate.

bookitty · April 2001

Diesel engines will do well at altitude, providing that they are not naturally aspirated. Turbo charged diesel engines have no problem at altitude. Because diesel engine fire by compression as opposed to an electrical spark, they are prone to grasping more air to add volume.
When the density of the air is reduced at altitude providing significantly less oxygen, the engine whimps out. The turbocharger forces in more air, and defeats that starvation situation. Sometimes turbocharged engines at altitude will tend to blow smoke. That is usually upon power demand where the fuel/air ratio is upset due to the availability of more fuel than air. This is where aneroid technology kicks in, but we'll save that for another bed time story kiddies.

Bookitty

camdude · April 2001

Thanks for the advice all.

2003 is a little out there as my current 99 Dakota's lease will be up 3-02. I am pushing 40, so speed is not a necessity, I just want the power to pull a house down. Just the word "V10" sounds nice, but will it pass a gas station. I have heard one with flow masters, kind of got the blood flowing.

Most likely, I will not be above 2K. As I like snow, however I do not want the head aches that comes with living in it for 3-4 months. At this elevation, it will just visit me a few times. The Dakota Quad is nice and spacious, but it does lack the bed length.

The area I am looking at, is along route 49, between Oakhurst and Sonora. There is not too many newer vehicles around that area. It seems that old Dodges are still being used though. Next time I go, I will look a little harder. Great advice.

iowabigguy · April 2001

aneroid technology??? Isn't that something like a robot made out of flesh? Personally I think you are just blowing smoke at us! Rick

bookitty · April 2001

Rick, great pun regarding the smoke. Over my head as usual, but Boo, my cat explained it to me, very sloooooooly. Actually Rick you are confusing the word "aneroid" with "android." Aneroid refers to lack of air, while an android is a guy from New Yawk pretending to be a genuine Mid-Westerner.

Bookitty

nmchop · April 2001

Hi ladies and gents...enjoying reading your comments and it seems most if not all like their Dakotas.

I'm considering a 2001 model (or getting a used one). I've come across something unusal. a dealership in my area is selling a 2001 Dakota Club Cab SLT, V-6, automatic, cruise, sliding rear window, A/C, AM/FM/Cassette for $15,996...that's like $3400 below Edmunds TMV.

I'm figuring they're having trouble selling it cuz it's a V-6, not a V-8. I don't really do much hauling at all...Kind of use a truck as a car, just like riding high and enjoy having the truck when I do need it (it's my only ride).

So I guess, i'm asking for opinions on this from you, the Dakota owners. It's clearly a good financial deal. I'm just wondering if the V8 is that much better? or some other angle i'm not considering here. Any other reviews of your trucks, particularly reliability would be appreciated (i don't wanna weed through the tons of messages).

Thanks

bookitty · April 2001

Jeff, while the 3.9 does not approach the power and performance level of the V8 engines (4.7/5.9) it sounds as though you are looking for a basic vehicle for transportation and occasional hauling. In that event, without researching, the price sounds very good to me. You did not mention how many miles were on the odometer. You should also consider negotiating some warranty extension in case the vehicle turns out to be someone's problem and that's why it is for sale. Drive the truck and you should quickly discover if the power is sufficient to satisfy your expectations. Then proceed from that point. Best of luck.

Bookitty

namfflow · April 2001

Assuming it is a 2 wheel drive that sounds like a fair deal. It all depends on the rest of the options list as a base SLT msrp isn't much higher than your figure.

A V6 in a 2 wheel drive with no towing would be "adequate" for the average person. If you are satified with most average, everyday cars the V6 should be okay for you.

For me personally I used to own muscle cars so I am addicted to power. There is never enough!

The V6 is a strong engine for what it is. Just don't expect to get great gas mileage as you will be working it a little harder than you might a V8.

Why don't you take it for a serious test drive? Put it through what you feel you would give it and then decide if it is enough for you?

ron35 · April 2001

Jeff - I have a 2000 Dak with a 4.7 and I have several friends who have Daks with the 3.9 many have had problems. The 3.9 at 175 HP represents old technology, it is being replaced by a 3.7, which is derived from the 4.7. The 3.7 will have 212 HP and most likely be much better in the area of gas mileage and power. I would give serious consideration to going to a 4.7 or waiting for the 3.7 in 2002.

Ron35

namfflow · April 2001

Well I have done and did it. I just got back from picking up Club Cab #2. Except for taking a killing on my trade in, (99 Dage Stratus ES) I feel I did pretty good. 99 bucks over invoice and a fair interest rate. Only one or 2 minor hick ups. There is a flaw in the trim around the passenger side quarter window. It is lifted up and looks like a weld bead in there which they'll have to fix, my liner is back ordered and I noticed there are no covers over the jack tray or the other one under the back seat like in my 97. Not sure if they should be there.

Inspected the living L out of it before picking it up using the Dodge Ram checklist. Good basic stuff that we often don't think about. I recommend it for everyone.

The order time was decent, the terms are okay. I hope it holds up like my other mopars. I have had good luck thoughtout the years with them.

For those who are interested, it is a red/silver SLT with 4.7, auto 2 wheel drive and pretty much loaded. No 4 wheel anti lock brakes, hate them. All the heavy duty stuff including 2000lb payload, mainly for the bigger rear brakes.

namfflow · April 2001

Well, maybe my luck with mopars has started to run out. Not even 60 miles on the new truck and the engine malfunction light is on. When I went to start it up this morning there was a heavy gas smell.

I'll see how fast this can be rectified.

bja4 · April 2001

My Dakota has turned one. 2000 4x4 Sport Club cab, with 4.7 engine, 5-speed, 3.9 rear, sport-plus package, 2000 lbs payload and cruise. With less than 6k miles on it, I am still getting around 17 mpg mixed driving. The payload package was well worth the money ($35). The truck handles great. My brother's Sonoma with the Z? package needs helper springs, and possibly a rear sway bar to help with the 1000 lbs Halmark camper he just bought.
Only minor new complaint is yellow/white foam moisture found in the oil fill tube during the winter months. I still wish there was a separate button for the AC, like on my old 92 Dakota. Bi-level on the 2000 trucks runs the AC, even though there is no "snow flake" symbol next to it.
There are no covers over the jack compartment on this Dakota as well. I like the lever-mounted 4wd engagement system vrs. the push button. My neighbor's 2 week old 2001 Dakota Club cab has had to have the push button system fixed after one the first weekend of four-wheeling

bobs5 · April 2001

namfflow

http://www.batauto.com/Chrysler.html - this shows how to retrieve codes via ignition switch routine. on-off-on-off-on, where "off" is accessory position, "on" is the run position. It worked for me, although it took a couple of tries. If it works, the code information is displayed where the odometer readout is.

http://www.batauto.com/Pcodes.html - this shows the codes for obd2 in p format.

If you have time, take it to the dealer before the light goes out, so they can scan for codes. I had the light come on at 1800 miles, 4 restarts later, the light was out and never came back on again. By the time I got the truck to the dealer, the light was out, and they gave me the standard Dodge response "could not duplicate".

Hope it is not a serious problem.

good luck,

Bob

bobs5 · April 2001

bja4
Happy birthday.
I think all of us with the 4.7L have the yellow/white foam or sludge in the oil filler tube. I just wipe it out occasionally. The 2001 models have a separate a/c button. My 4x4 system has been flawless.
I got the recall notice about the transfer case re-programming, in the mail, and have to make an appointment for that.
Overall, I'm happy with this truck
Bob

namfflow · April 2001

Bobs5, thanks, I'll check out the scan codes today at lunch. Actually I think I may have caused this myself. The first thing I did when I got home was replace the gas cap with a locking model. I think the parts book is wrong because the 01 gas cap is different than others I have seen and the locking one I got is like the one on my 97.

If I "correct" the problem by putting the OEM cap on and this indeed was the problem would the MIL go out by itself or does it need to be reset?

bobs5 · April 2001

namfflow
Ah ha, the change out the ol gas cap maneuver eh?
If the new cap was not sealing correctly, this can set off the light.
I assume the light went on after the new cap was installed?
Try the original cap and see what happens. The light should go out eventually, it may or may not be right away. When my light was on it took about 4 restart sequences to go out. I seriously doubt the computer will need to be reset by the dealer.
Good luck,
Bob

namfflow · April 2001

Bobs5, One thing I forgot to mention is that after I did the swap, The truck sat til the next morning. When I started it up I had an excessive amount of fuel smell.

I'll keep my eyes on it. It runs fine, no hesitatation or any other issues you would normally associate with an engine malfunction.

Well, I better get my tail in gear, don't want to be late for work.

namfflow · April 2001

Thanks for the codes folks. Just checked it out and what I have is: P0455 Evaporative Emission Control System Leak Detected (gross leak) which makes sense because the locking gas cap was not sealing right.

Oh the piece of mind it brings. Now I won't be worrying my troubled mind over it.

bobs5 · April 2001

namfflow
Glad the code retrieval worked for you.
Have you replaced the cap with the original yet and has the light gone out?
Bob

namfflow · April 2001

I replaced the cap last night when I suspected it. The light hasn't gone out yet. I called the dealer and mentioned what I did and the codes. They indicated that it should eventually clear the light but the code will stay in the computer, (fine) and that they charge 45 bucks just to reset the light!!!!

So far I have only driven about 15 miles in heavy traffic. Tonight I will have about 20 miles of highway driving at "normal" speeds. That should clear up any system pressure problems. We'll see.

namfflow · April 2001

Update on Code/gas cap. When I got off work yesterday the MIL was off and evrything is hunky-dory again.

Hate to go to the dealer and pay 3 times the price for a locking cap. Oh well......

Other than that, no problems. Can't wait to save some pennies and put another set of Pirreli Scorpion Zeros on this one. Love those tires, stick like glue.

bobs5 · April 2001

Glad to hear everything is OK.

dakotadave · April 2001

I just bought a 2000 Dakota 4x4 Club Cab Sport V8/4.7 slighty used (less than 20k miles) and am really happy so far!! This is my first Dodge. I took a lot of time with this purchase. Test drove a lot of trucks. It came down to a similarly-packaged F-150 and the Dakota. Driving them both, I liked the Dakota much better. I paid just under 18k. Sound reasonable? It is loaded!

I just stumbled onto this site today and enjoy reading everyone's comments! Now, I know what to look out for in the future months/years. Hopefully, I can provide information as well.

Dave

nmchop · April 2001

I realize i'm basically seeking advice from those already sold on Dakotas, but i've had my resolve shaken.

I kept shopping after posting about the V-6 2001 Dakota I found (most advice was to go V8)...I've now found a 2 WD, magnum V-8 (4.7), 2000 Dakota Club Cab SLT with 22,000 miles on it (Dark Green). It has P/L, P/W, cruise, tilt, A/c, am/fm cassette, automatic. The price just dropped to $14,580. Seems like a deal to me.

In this process, i've had quite a few people trying to shake my resolve to buy a Dodge saying they have serious transmission problems blah blah blah. That and the gas mileage "issue" have me a little confused I guess. It's kind of between this dakota, a blazer or god knows what.

This truck will be my main ride. I probably don't need a truck, but I like riding high, enjoy the comfort and of course the convenience of having a truck when you need to haul or move or whatever.

Anyway, what do you all think? Thanks for putting up with this post in your club...I might be a member very soon!

Thanks,
Jeff

bobs5 · April 2001

Jeff,
Sounds like a good price.
What is the history of this truck? Service records, lemon law, etc.
How does it run and ride?
I have the 5spd manual tranny so I can't really comment on the automatic tranny question.
Gas mileage seems about the same between the V6 and 4.7L V8. In certain situations the V8 will get better mileage than the V6, such as towing or hauling heavy loads.
I'm sure the V8 will put a bigger smile on your face. :-)
Good luck with whatever you choose.
Bob

bookitty · April 2001

Jeff, looks like a very reasonable price. See if they will throw in an extended warranty or at least sell you one for a preferred price. This will tend to make you feel comfortable. Service records as Bob(bobs5)suggested is also a very good point. Good luck.

Bookitty

Dodge Dakota - Club Cab

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