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Dodge Dakota - Club Cab

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Comments

  • pcalandropcalandro Member Posts: 1
    Just purchase a 1999 dakota from a dealer. truck has 26,000 miles. did a car fax on it and came up clean . After about an hour after picking it up from dealer. I went into reverse and heard a ping/clank. went into park did it again and it happened again. It only happens when I go into reverse. could it be the universal linkage or maybe the rear end gear box? any suggestions before I bring it back to the dealer? :confuse: thanks for your help
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    You may be correct, the U-joints are the likely culprit. My 2000 Dak got new rear U-jount under warantee,,,so it is not unusual.
  • gunmetalgunmetal Member Posts: 1
    there is just the glass on e-bay under dodge dakota !
    marty b
  • edog11edog11 Member Posts: 12
    I just purchased a Dakota 2001 last weekend and I didn't hear the clank until I got home a hour later. At least I have a 3 month/3000 mi warranty. I'll definitely take it back to have the problem resovled. But, with my luck they will probably tell me the U-joints aren't covered. Other than the clanks I love the vehicle.
  • fsunoles4lifefsunoles4life Member Posts: 2
    I own a 2001 Dakota 3.9L v6, it has power to it and all, but i want to increase it, i orignally wanted a R/T cause of the 5.9L but insurance was gonna be too high, so i ended up geting a v6 dakota. i was wondering what would be the best thing i could do to increase the horsepower and etc.
  • letterman01letterman01 Member Posts: 1
    I'm thinking about getting a new Club Cab (2005) V6, manual transmission. Does anyone want to sway my opinion one way or the other? I hope the smaller engine will help the gas mileage issue described elsewhere in this forum. How are they for home maintenance? e.g., are the oil filter and plugs easily accessible? Any other thoughts?
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    It sounds like you have a 4.7 now?

    despite what many experience, I've found that if you drive it right a 4.7 will give you almost as good a gas mileage as the V6. The new 3.7 is a more efficient engine than the 3.9 it replaced. I have talked to only one person with the new V6 in a 2004 and he was getting about 17.5 MPG average. I can do that with my 2003 4.7 if I'm patient and slow down. I do believe that around town you'll probably do a little better with the 3.7.

    The 3.7 is nothing more than a 4.7 with two cylinders removed. The block architecture is the same, so plugs and filters would be in the same position, except you'll have a little more room to work on the engine.

    Best regards,
    Dusty
  • tcsmpsitcsmpsi Member Posts: 31
    Dusty,

    On the '05 (don't know about the '04, personally) 3.7, everything is more accessible than it was on my '01 3.9 engine. The '01 3.9 was a manual, while the '05 3.7 is an automatic. I experience about the same fuel mileage of the two.

    With the '05, I have gotten as good as 22.9 on the hiway (not driving conservative speeds), and average around 14.5 in town.

    With the '01, I got about the same in town, while on one journey to Tucson (1,100 miles in a little less than 19 hours), I averaged about 23.5.

    Of course, these are Quad Cab mileages, so the Club might do a bit better.
  • matt007matt007 Member Posts: 1
    i own a 2001 dakota club cab 4x4 V-6. are the calipers and front rotors problematic over the life of the truck. :confuse:
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    On pre-2003s there was a lot of complaints about short rotor life. Personally I know some that went a long distance and some that didn't and it's hard to tell if it was driver use related or rotor quality related.

    After 2002 the Dakota got different front brakes and presumable better rotors. I just had mine replaced at 47K, and they were not warped. The factory pads seem to wear the best and still produce reasonable rotor life. Some "long life" pads will last longer at the expense of faster rotor wear.

    Most people tell me that on pre-2003s that aftermarket rotors will last longer. Well, in some cases. There's been complaints about aftermarket rotors, too. Cheapo aftermarkets are no better than factory and could even be worse. Then again repair techs are telling me the newer factory rotors are much better for pre-2003s.

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • illicit_hunterillicit_hunter Member Posts: 3
    I own a 1998 Dakota Club Cab w/ a 318 under the hood. So far I have put dual straight pipes on the back from the cat and a K&N FIPK Intake. I am interested in all of these Hypertech Dodge Dakota Power Programmer III and the JET Dodge Dakota Performance Chips Power Control Module (PCM). Has anyone applied one of these to their Dakota?? Which is the best, or if you have any suggestions for incresing HP/TQ/MPG, please throw them my way.
  • dsatlledsatlle Member Posts: 2
    What moron engineer decided that the front passenger seat should not fully recline? The seat will only recline to about a 45 degree angle. Ever try sleeping on a long road trip at that angle? I have a 2004 Club Cab and sure enough that is the one item I failed to check. I traded in an old 1996 SLT Dakota with great, full-recline seats and fully expected the 2004 to be designed the same. But heck no! Some guy decided to change it, WHY? Any suggestions out there other than asking my wife to take her naps in the bed of the truck?
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    It is not safe to be in a reclined position when vehicle is in motion. Try sleeping in the bed or on the hood 8-)

    I have gone on many, MANY roadtrips that last well over 18 hours.... no one has ever needed to recline a seat to sleep. Youd Dak is no worse than an airplane. Many folks find a way to sleep without reclining.

    To please your wife (which is what it is all about anyway) I guess you could look into installing seat from older Dak.

    I know that a Futon -matress fits perfectly in the bed of my Dak. With the cap on my Dak., it is a GREAT way to go camping.
  • dsatlledsatlle Member Posts: 2
    I see your point if the seat reclined to 180 degrees but this is not the case. If the seat went back to a full 45 degree angle I'd be amazed and happy. :)
  • eharri3eharri3 Member Posts: 640
    I didn't realize this until about a month after I had my 04 Quad. Doesn't make sense to me either. If it's unsafe to have seats that can fully recline in a vehicle, why do so many other cars have them?
  • vinny7vinny7 Member Posts: 1
    hi, guys,
    I recently had the dealer install the mopar bedliner in my 2005 dakota (I got them to throw it in with the deal, but had to wait for it to come in). Where the rubber plugs are, there are round covers over them in the liner. Where the rear tie downs are, on either side of the tailgate, there are no covers, just sort of rectangular openings exposing the tie downs. Is this the way it's suppose to be or did the installer forget to put on the covers? I emailed dodge to ask them and they emailed me back (get this) that they didn't have a clear picture of a bedliner to answer my question and i should check with the dealer.
    thanks.
    Vinny
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    Yep. That's the way they are on my '03 Mopar bedliner.

    Dusty
  • bgpmpnbgpmpn Member Posts: 1
    Anyone having problems w/ their 4x4 systems on their truck?

    Is Dodge known to have problems with their systems?

    I just bought an 03 x-cab 4x4 2 months ago. Today while I was driving to work, the "service 4wd" light came on. Never used the 4x4 yet.

    Could it be a vacuum problem?
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    Have you owned GM products in the past? They use vacuum on some models with 4x4 (S-10s especially). Dodge is electronic transfer case control.

    Because of the year I'd recommend checking the electrical connections at the transfer case for corrosion. If it is, clean up the contacts and the rubber connector cover and pack the heck out of it with wheel bearing grease. Then reseat the connector.

    The "Service 4x4" lamp is illuminated anytime the Transfer Case Control Module defects a fault. There are electric motors internally that do the shifting. these could be bound. But if you haven't even used the 4x4 position yet, I'd bet on the connector or a defective control module.

    Best regards,
    Dusty
  • tomupstatenytomupstateny Member Posts: 4
    I own a 2003 club cab dakota and my blower will only work on high.I think the resistor block went bad does any one have a clue were I would find it? and is it hard to replace?
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    Behind the glovebox.
  • tomupstatenytomupstateny Member Posts: 4
    Thank you very much for your all your help
  • otwohrotwohr Member Posts: 3
    Dusty - I had the front rotors/pads replaced on my 2001 4x4 Quad cab 10k miles ago (Wagner OEM rotors, Bendix pads). The left is becoming quite scored on both the inner and outer surfaces. The right side rotor is smooth both inside and out, the pads are equally worn with approx 8/32 remaining. Could this be an sticking caliper? I've heard of premature LF rotor wear on other DC vehicles, is this common?
    Also, there's a noticeable whine developing in the front left that starts at approx 5 mph and increases with road speed. I thought this may be a tire problem; putting the spare on made no difference BUT the sound disappears completely when turning right. CV joint? Could this in any way be related to the rotor issue?

    TIA for any suggestions.
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    The propensity for a sticking left caliper on any DC vehicle is not a common problem. However, you could most certainly have a sticking caliper on the left side.

    If inspection and testing proves the caliper is otherwise okay, the problem could be the rubber brake line from the frame to the caliper. After long exposure to brake fluid they can swell on the inside causing the reverse flow (releasing) to be blocked and the caliper to be partially pressurized. This cause the pads to drag or be partially applied and this is the usual cause of scoring.

    If you find the brake line to fix the problem on the left, I'd recommend replacing the other side, too.

    Regarding the noise, I don't know. My first recommendation is to check the the tires, rotate, and then check front end alignment. You could have a shifted cord in one of the tires. I've never heard a CV joint "whine," but there's always a first time for any thing.

    Best regards,
    Dusty
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    Have you checked to see if the caliper is sticking? It is a simple test.

    Drive the vehicle (preferably at highwayspeeds) and WITHOUT USING THE BRAKES go into a rest-area and come to a stop. (I use emergancy-brake pedal to do this)

    Then, gingerly feel the lugnuts for heat. Both sides should feel equally the same (perhaps warm to the touch)
    If one side is noticabbly warmer than the other, suspect sticking caliper.

    ANOTHER POSSIBILITY: Even if a caliper does not "stick", the brake-pads can bind on the sliders. If the mechanic that replaced your pads did not file off the burrs and apply brake-grease to this area, I would put MONEY on that being your problem.

    BTW: I have replaced BOTH of the calipers on my 2000 Dak. They both started to stick within 3 months of each other.
  • mcdodgemcdodge Member Posts: 1
    I HAVE A 99 AND I HAD TO CHANGE OUT ROTORS AND CALIPERS ON MINE AT 40K I COULDN'T BELIEVE IT. IT HAS 107K NOW AND STILL DOING WELL.
  • rockinpopparockinpoppa Member Posts: 12
    I have a 2005 C.C. would like to remove rear jump seats??...how big a problem?? Where do I find how to do it...????....Rockinpoppa
  • mike133mike133 Member Posts: 13
    go to this site and download the complete service manual for the 05 it should answer any question you have about install and removel. http://www.megaupload.com/?d=6SGQPOHJ
  • rockinpopparockinpoppa Member Posts: 12
    Thanks, went to site dnloaded manual....Happy, happy....Thanks again....POPPA
  • rockinpopparockinpoppa Member Posts: 12
    Help. anybody found out how to get around the drivers auto down window feature???? i like to crack drivers window without having to pull up on switch to stop it from going all the way down, Thanks POPPA
  • jnealjneal Member Posts: 247
    Driver side front window should be a two-position switch. Push down to the first detent and when you let up the window stops. If you push all the way down to second position then the auto down feature is activated. At least my 06 works that way. Check your owners manual.
  • rockinpopparockinpoppa Member Posts: 12
    Nope, my 05 C.C. SLT you hit window button, it goes DOWN!!!!!!!. the only way u can stop it is to pickup on the switch to stop it....What a Pain.....POPPA
  • jnealjneal Member Posts: 247
    Rockinpoppa, according to the 05 service manual the drivers door window switch is a two position detent switch. If yours isn't operating this way then it is defective.
  • rockinpopparockinpoppa Member Posts: 12
    Thanks for the info, will run it to dealer and let them change it out....POPPA
  • rockinpopparockinpoppa Member Posts: 12
    Anybody running those LED stop/tail lights...What brand, and #.....Thanks, Poppa
  • rockinpopparockinpoppa Member Posts: 12
    Manual says hold set button till hour flashes , set hour, then turn tuner dial to set minutes...did that the hours set, but the minutes dont change...what am i doing wrong??????....POPPA
  • ken1776ken1776 Member Posts: 41
    After you set the hours press the tuner button once and it will change to minutes, then turn tuner button left or right to set minutes. Just picked up a left over 05 CC SLT and just set the clock.
  • rockinpopparockinpoppa Member Posts: 12
    Ok, thanks.....................POPPA
  • bubbasbrewbubbasbrew Member Posts: 1
    what are the best performance parts for a dodge dakota? like what are some of the best brands that are good for the money? I want my truck to sound like a beast....Its a project...Im only 18 and would like to help build my truck into a awesome machine! anywho. What are the upgrades that would suit me best...like get it lifted, adn some new treads and a sick interior would be sweet...my question is where to start and what to buy?
    PLEASE help, i want to know more and i want more power in my truck

    THANKS & PEACE
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    Here are some links that may help you on your quest

    THROTTLEBODIES= http://www.thefastman.com/

    CAMSHAFT= http://www.hughesengines.com/

    Z-TUBE INTAKE= http://www.intenseperformance.com/

    POOR-MANS INTAKE= http://members.aol.com/bsbets/truck/intake4.jpg

    BORLA EXHAUST= http://www.borla.com/

    SUPERCHARGER= http://www.superchargersonline.com/content.asp?id=50
  • spillingvoidspillingvoid Member Posts: 5
    that all depends on the year of your truck also. But with mine(older dakota 93 with a 318) I put dual 2 1/4 inch exaust from the manafold to the back and my truck roars down the street and it is a beast. It only cost me 230 dollars for dual pipes with flowmaster. I still think there the best tried and true baby. Also I put a 14 inch air cleaner and am currently makeing a ram air system for the truck.

    -spillingvoid@yahoo.com
  • trapezecdntrapezecdn Member Posts: 13
    Hey guys,

    I was scanning the forum for any pertinent info on my 2000 v6 2wd dakota sport, and saw the download you offered rockinpoppa for his 05. I am trying to save $ with first child on it's way and was about to order a haynes or chilton. Any recommendations? Is a 2000 service manual available for download?

    Getting ready to change the shocks, probably going with edelbrocks, trying to decide if I can handle it myself. Any thoughts?
  • ronslakie1ronslakie1 Member Posts: 57
    I believe you will get much more info out of the factory service manual than either Chilton or Haynes. I have the FSM and Haynes (2K Dak also). A good inexpensive source for the FSM is ebay. I also have the Edelbrock IAS shocks and they are excellent. I installed them myself and the are not difficult to install.

    Ron35
  • jscott099jscott099 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2006 4.7L 4x4. The first time I ever used the 4x4 (when pulling my boat out a boat ramp); it remained stuck in 4 wheel and the service 4 wheel light came on. Sent back to dealer with 5300 miles. Awaiting results of warranty repair.
  • nmacha1nmacha1 Member Posts: 9
    i have a '01 with over 125000 miles. i went to 89 octane and saw a little improvement rught along with a k&n air filter. im in oregon and we have alot of hills here. i avarage 16mpg overall and i drive the hell out of my 4.7 4x4 cc. avarage 80 mph freeway and do a little street racing in it.(its awesome when a stock truck can beat tuned imports here). and never gotten below 16. i know from experiance with my truck that ive gone 70 miles after the low fuel light came on. and i fill it normally when it comes on and put in between 16-18 gallons. not sure if this will help but its shows what they can do
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    Anyone that has owned a 4X4 will tell you it is wise to enguage the 4WD every couple months. The owners manual may also explain that using the 4WD occasionally is recommended.

    The reason for this is to ensure that the gears and other moving parts get a chance to slosh in the gear-oil for awhile.

    Also, you would not get into a situation where you NEED to use 4WD but it wont go in (or come out).

    Here in Veromont, my Dak may be locked in 4HI for weeks at a time in the winter. During the summer, I occasionally enguage 4HI on a STRAIGHT stretch of road for about a mile.

    I use 4LO once in a while when I need to "creep" such as backing into a tight spot. (again IN A STRAIGHT LINE on dry pavement)

    You may wish to consider doing the same to keep the 4X4 components in the xfer case lubed and functional.
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