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Dodge Dakota - Club Cab

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Comments

  • steve234steve234 Member Posts: 460
    The 3.9 is OK for an old style V6, but it is based on the 5.2. You are essentially looking at the same engine with diffentent number of pistons. As long as you don't exceed 2000 lbs towing, the V6 will be adequate, but do not expect either engine to impress you with gas mileage. My work truck is a 00 V6 w/auto and is OK, but not impressive. If you are patient, you can make it work for you. A lot depends on how long you intend to keep the vehicle. When I buy, it is long term (10+years)so I am very fussy about what I have and usually buy new. make sure you find one with the HD service group and preferably with towing pkg. I would seriously suggest that you look at the leftover 2000 models. Sometimes with the lower interest rate offered on new vehicles, the payments can be less than for a used vehicle. You never know and it costs nothing to look.
  • krish01krish01 Member Posts: 1
    Just bought a 2001 Club Cab Sport 4X4 w/the 4.7 just over a month ago. Can any recomend a Cat-Back Exhaust and if so where I might possibly get one online?

    Thanks for the help

    krish
    NH
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    (krish01) Have you checked out the DAKOTA ACCESSORIES forum? There are several available for the 4.7L V8 hemi. I have been waiting over a year and there are still some companies that have not come 'online' with the product yet.

    Here is one 'taste' of what is available
    ALL TRUCK CENTER
  • haas2haas2 Member Posts: 2
    Hi, I'm planning on buying a Club Cab next year, 2001 and would appreciate some info.. I will be pulling a small boat, 1000#. Do you recommend the 3.9 with the 4 sp auto or the 4.7 with the multispeed auto. Just what is the multispeed auto? Any other comments would also be appreciated. Thanks
  • tuvtesttuvtest Member Posts: 237
    The multispeed auto has an "alternate" second gear that is designed to better keep the engine in it's powerband during highway operation. Previous autos have the "passing gear" that is just a kickdown into second. This new auto has a dedicated gear with a different ratio that is in between second and drive.
    I think I'm safe in saying that most of the owners here prefer the 4.7L to any other engine. It seems to be the best of both worlds. It is a totally new design (3 yrs. old) that gives better MPG than the 3.9L V-6 (15 yr. old surgery on a 35 yr. old design), nearly the power and tow rating as the 5.9L (35 yr old design). The 4.7L is a relativly inexpensive upgrade at,I belive, $570 invoice. Your towing needs are easily within the ratings of either engine, though I would encourage you to make sure you get the Heavy Duty Service pkg. and the factory's Trailer Tow pkg. to better prepare your rig for the added strain.
  • eglideeglide Member Posts: 6
    I have a 2000 with the 4.7 and auto transmission. I have a small camper(1800 lbs)that I tow with mine. My previous truck was a 94 Dakota with the 3.9. I recommend the 4.7 hands down. The 3.9 is an adequate and reliable engine that will tow what you have, but in my opinion there is no comparison. I get better MPG with my 4.7 and there is no comparison as to the power!!. I agree that you should get the heavy duty service group and the towing package.
  • yumainotyumainot Member Posts: 1
    About six months ago I bought a 98 Dakota 3.9 auto. I have been slightly disappointed with it' performance, but I should say that it has a hard tonneau and full ground effects. Perhaps the added weight is damping the torque. Anyway, I have been searching long and hard for bolt-on performance upgrades, and I might get 260HP/350ft.lbs. at the most. Another option is to swap out the 3.9 for a 5.9. Is the auto-tran for the 3.9 able to withstand the torque of a beefed up 5.9? Thanks to anyone with an answer. Also, check out www.performancetruck.com for aftermarket upgrades for dakotas.
  • tuvtesttuvtest Member Posts: 237
    quick answer- no. The auto used with the 3.9L is possibly shared with the 5.2L, I don't remember for sure off the top of my head. I do know that the 5.9 has a much beefier trans then the others. it may be possible for a pro to build one to take the torque of the 5.9 but for the $ invested in that, you could probably get 2 stock trans's. The bellhousings are, i belive, the same but thats where it ends. Also note that in moter swaps aren't as easy as they used to be. Not only do you have to change the motor, electronics, wire harnesses,radiator, fuel pump, possibly fuel lines,computor, exhaust,and more, you still face the govt. with their emissions laws. Unlfortunatly it may be easier just to start upgrading the 3.9L. My first stop would be the current Mopar Performance catalog.
  • b53chevb53chev Member Posts: 1
    I'm considering buying a 2WD, Dakota Club Cab, and was wondering just how good the 2.5L, 4-cyl engine is. I will not be towing anything except on occasion a motorcycle on a small trailer. I'm concerned about fuel efficiency, but not if the engine will be too small to move the truck down the hwy at 70 mph. Does anybody out there own a Dakota with the 4-cyl engine and if so, what are your comments about it? Thanks.
  • wetwilliewetwillie Member Posts: 129
    the 4 banger is too small for a truck this size\weight. The hp/weight ratio is not in your favor. You'd be much better off with the v-6 in the dakota. If gas mileage is a major concern, I'd be lookin elsewhere - perhaps an import or smaller American pickemup.
  • brett17118brett17118 Member Posts: 1
    I am going to buy a 2001 Dakota Club Cab SLT 4x2 within a month. I was needing advice on a couple things. I am getting the 4.7L engine with a manual tran. I was wondering if the limited slip differential was necesarry and what axle ratio I should get. Thank you.
  • bookittybookitty Member Posts: 1,303
    Brett, if you live in an area that gets snow, ice or heavy inclement weather, I would opt for the limited slip differential. As far as axle ratios are concerned, unless you tow heavily or extensively, the 3.55 will offer lower RPM and better mileage. You haven't given us enough information to provide for an intelligent answer.

    Bookitty
  • cpsmithcpsmith Member Posts: 1
    I'm going to be in the market for a 98 Dakota Club Cab, but I've heard they have a history of transmission troubles and ball joint problems. I've also heard they use a car transmission in some models.

    Any truth to these rumors?
  • 4cyldodge4cyldodge Member Posts: 1
    I bought a new '98 4-cyl Dakota club cab. Short story is don't buy the 4 cylinder. It's underpowered in everyday driving. It does 70++ mph ok on the highway until you hit a hill. I used to console myself by saying at least I get decent gas mileage but the mileage stinks. I was on a budget and the 6-cyl was too much $ at the time.

    I don't do any towing.

    The good news is: I regularly use it to haul 1000 lbs of dirt and gravel. Recently, I accidentally overloaded with about 2500 pounds of concrete brick once and the truck didn't like it but got home and has had no after affects.

    More bad news: Within a year of owning it, the gas gauge went bad. Truck died with 1/4 of tank showing (at night, bad neighborhood). Took the dealer 5 days to figure out the problem and fix it.

    Got recall notice in the mail for bad brakes. At about the same time my catalytic converter went bad (lots of noise, sounds like a diesel). Recall notice said it would take 1/2 day to fix. Called dealer to make appointment, they said it would take all day because they were busy and to fix the catalytic converter. The dealer had it for three days. They didn't order the recall parts, they didn't order the new catalytic converter, and they managed to lose my keys. My catalytic converter is still busted, it is supposedly back-ordered. They were supposed to call me when it gets in. Its been a month, I would call them to complain, but I hate dealing with the buffoons. 5 star service?

    I was thinking about buying another Chrysler Corp. vehicle for my wife because, overall, I like the truck. But the service is so lousy I don't think so.
  • bikenutbikenut Member Posts: 19
    Hey folks,
    I'm planning on buying a Dakota 4X4 CC with 4.7 V-8 (at the recommendation of this group) with manual tranny. I live in RI, where we sometimes get snow, and I have a public service job where I have to get to work, and it is 25 miles each way, thus the 4X4. My questions are about whether or not I should order 3.55 axle and/or limited slip differential. I assume the 3.55 axle is lower gearing, and I'm not sure I'll need that with 4 wheel drive. I will rarely tow more than a motorcyle or two, or help with the occasional request to help someone move this or that. I will do a fair amount of city driving, and wonder if I should get HD service group. Any advice will be appreciated.
  • ohc_babyohc_baby Member Posts: 116
    The LSD is always a good idea. If you're willing to pay the cost of 4wd, you'd certainly get your money's worth with the limited-slip. The worst case for an open 4x4 is having one spinning front and rear wheel, with no real traction on either end - definitely opt for the LSD. The 3.92 rear end will give you better acceleration and towing capacity, but with a 50-mile round-trip and normal day-to-day driving, I'd suggest the 3.55 with its better fuel economy, especially on the highway.
  • bookittybookitty Member Posts: 1,303
    Doug, there are only two choices for differential ratios for your truck. The 3.55 (fits most applications) and the 3.92, which is designed for more constant towing with heavy loads, or in mountainous areas. The 3.55 should do fine, but I strongly recommend the limited slip differential option. This increases tractive effort in conditions where one wheel may be on a slippery surface and would spin. LSD helps to regain traction and move the vehicle. I once took a long drive on Route 6, all the way from East Providence, RI to Seekonk, MA. I certainly was happy that I had a limited slip differential (just kidding of course). ohc baby has given you good and prudent advice. Good luck, and please feel free to post any questions and/or requests for clarification. That's the way we learn. Are you aware of the Farm Bureau $500.00 discount for Dodge trucks? If not, try this link: www.fb.com.

    Bookitty
  • bikenutbikenut Member Posts: 19
    I've really learned a lot reading the e-mails in this site. I ordered my Dakota today, club cab, black (the only color for a P/U!)4.7,manual, 4X4 with AGU group AND Quasi Posi. Thanks for Farm Bureau tip. I'll see what I can do, but I put deposit on truck tonight, so have likely missed the discount. Anyway, my wife bought a vehicle from same dealer last week, and my price was less than this site says the package should cost, so I'm happy. Now I have to wait 6 weeks for my new truck!. The 10 year old Mighty Max with 250,000 plus on the clock is, to put it mildly, a little long in the tooth. But I got it new in 1990 for 6K, so it owes me nothing. I'll brag about how cool my truck is when it gets in!
    Cordially, Bikenut
  • 2nddak2nddak Member Posts: 44
    Bikenut, get on the stick with the farm bureau discount, you haven't missed the boat yet. You only have to be a member for 30 days to get the discount. If your truck is coming in 6 weeks you've got the time. Some of the dealers don't have a clue on it so let them know that you are using it so they can get the proper paper work in order. Farm Bureau folks can fill you in on aquiring the proper certificate number from Dodge. You need that for the deal. It only cost about $60 to join. Good luck. Also, don't let the dealer snow you and tell you it is only one rebate or the other. Dodge accepts both! They tried it with me and I told them the deal is off. Suddenly they came back and said we made a mistake.

    2nddak
  • bikenutbikenut Member Posts: 19
    I got on the FB site, (thanks Bookity) and found a link for the Dodge truck rebate/discount that is www.nafa.futures.org but that site seems not to be working. Also I keep getting booted off of the FB site. Just starting a new job, so don't have much time. Any help finding specific info for this program will be great. I'll call dealer tomorrow, though I don't expect much from them. Thanks, DPS
  • skylerkskylerk Member Posts: 67
    I just posted a bunch of Farm Bureau info over in the "Dodge Dakota Owners - FAQs" forum. Here's a link to it: >

    Note: Unless there is some kind of delay due to a "Christmas break" shutdown the factory, 6 weeks for a Dakota order is a very high (safe) estimate by your dealer. Most of the recent Dakota purchases reported in these forums have been 3 - 4 weeks from order to delivery. My own Quad Cab order in October took 25 days.

    Bottom line: Get signed up at your state Farm Bureau as soon as possible, even if you are still "shopping".

    Skyler
  • bikenutbikenut Member Posts: 19
    I called dealer today, and much to my surprise he stated that he has state farm bureau applications right in his desk. I went and got one and will send it in tomorrow. I was a little peeved that they didn't tell me about this before, but he said that as long as my application is in 30 days before I take delivery, I'm OK. Seems like I should be all set, but will advise if I have a problem. Thanks for info, I probably saved myself about a grand from this site!! DPS
  • 2nddak2nddak Member Posts: 44
    Bikenut,

    You can find them in your phone book and call. They should be able to give you the States main office and then you can call them and sign up by credit card so you won't have a mail delay.

    Also, if your truck comes in a bit before the 30 days, if you can take it, wait it out before you accept delivery. I was lucky, mine came in at 28 days, so I just took delivery 2 days later.

    Good luck, 2nddak
  • harleyartharleyart Member Posts: 9
    I'm new here so please forgive me if this is something that has been asked a hundred times. I'm ready to order a new Dakota Club Cab and my local dealer knows nothing about the Farm Bureau allowance. Is this available in New Jersey ? If so is there somewhere else I can get the forms ? Any help will be greatly appreciated. Thanks

    harleyart
  • bookittybookitty Member Posts: 1,303
    Arthur, click on this link www.fb.com. Then, click on your state and the local (state) bureau comes up. and usually they are listed by county. The fee is probably $75.00 (that is what it is for PA). The member must be a member for 30 days prior to taking delivery. There will be links to the NJ Farm Bureau. The $500.00 discount is usually found under "benefits." Good luck, and if you have any questions, feel free to Email me. My address is in my profile.

    Bookitty
  • ghostwriter336ghostwriter336 Member Posts: 4
    I purchased a 2000 Dodge Dakota Club Cab in July and it had to go back to the dealer due to water leaking into the cab. I'm not sure how it's getting in, but I suspect through the door seals. I pulled up the carpet on the floor and the entire floor was flooded. The padding under the carpet was soaked and the carpet itself damp. The dealer resealed the left door weatherstrip and door moisture barrier. Last night I was cleaning the truck and decided to pull up the carpet to check, and the floor was wet. Though not has bad as before. I'm making another appointment to have the truck "fixed". I was wondering if anyone had any suggestions as to what the problem might be or if they experienced it themselves. The vehicle was never involved in an accident and I bought it new. If this keeps up I'll be looking into the state's lemon laws. (NJ) Other than that I love the truck. Thanks for any help.
  • skylerkskylerk Member Posts: 67
    harleyart,
    My experience with the Farm Bureau discount is posted in the Dakota FAQ forum.
    Here's a link to it: >
    This reply to my post may also be useful to you: >
  • puma14puma14 Member Posts: 3
    I would like anyone's help regarding my problem. Here's my problem: I own a 1999 Dodge Dakota CC Sport 4x4 3.9 liter 6, and I have had problems with my engine, steering column, and rear brakes. My engine sounds like a diesel(they say pings), my steering column pops when I turn it hard left or right, and they recalled my truck to fix the rear ABS. They updated the computer with a flash for the engine and replaced the steering column after the fourth time. There was only 5K miles on it when I first brought it in for the problems, and it has been in almost every other month. They want me to bring it in so that they can fix it again, but I am getting sick and tired of it! Any suggestions, or help, would greatly be appreciated. Thanks.

    Sincerely,

    James A. Balsdon II
  • bookittybookitty Member Posts: 1,303
    James, perhaps it is time to get people other than the dealership involved in this problem. I believe that the "lemon laws" usually require the owner to exhaust all of the various options prior to taking the case to arbitration. I would start with the Daimler Chrysler area representative as the first step to see what he or she has to say. The dealership can tell you how to contact the area representative and it is just as well that they know that you are willing ready and able to pursue this to satisfaction. Gather up whatever paperwork you have on the problem(s) and from now on, keep everything in writing. I didn't say that this would be easy, but it is the only way that I know to press for results. Maybe someone else on the forum can guide you further. Good luck.

    Bookitty
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    (puma14) Listen to bookitty, You did not say how many miles are on it NOW but I assume it is still under warantee.

    Pinging (More precisley...Pre-ignition) has been reported when the intake plenum gasket is leaking. This causes the engine to run LEAN which causes pinging.Pre-ignition is also caused by a carbon build-up in the combustion-chambers. The carbon "glows" red-hot and ignights the FA mixture before the plug fires. (again... Pre-ignition)

    There have been reports of treating the engine with some kind of "Dodge Engine Decarbonizer" which is a liquid that is put into the intake and spark-plug holes and allowed to "soak".

    It is NEVER a good idea to turn your steering mechanism hard to the 'stops' This should solve this "problem" (Just do not do it)
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    (puma14) Oh... and many people have installed a 180 thermostat (down from the factory 195) to combat the pinging.

    Lets not forget that an engine is MOST EFFICENT when it is running on the verge of pinging. Yours is just running TOO LEAN or TOO HOT. (Assuming the timing is correct.) ccasional pinging clumbing a hill on a hot day is normal
  • triple_deke1triple_deke1 Member Posts: 60
    Can a 12 disc changer be installed UNDER the driver or passenger seat in a Club Cab?
    I want to order the radio with the cd changer controls but dont want to take up any space
    in the extended cab area.
  • mpoolmpool Member Posts: 1
    my 2001 Dakota with 4.7 engine shuts down at 100 mph....How can I fix it ????? don't tell me to call the dealer!!!!!
  • iowabigguyiowabigguy Member Posts: 552
    Before everyone jumps on you for driving too fast let me answer your question. The computer is programmed to limit the top speed based on the tires the factory installs. If yours cuts out at 100mph I'd assume you have the 4x4 or a 4x2 without the tire/handling package. The only way you can exceed the limit is have the engine controller re programmed( the only one I'm aware of with this capability is the dealer) or replace the engine controller with the Mopar performance controller. This removes the 100mph limit and increases horsepower/torque at a cost. You have to buy it for between $250 and $300 (estimate) last I heard and you MUST use 93 octane gas. Rick
  • tuvtesttuvtest Member Posts: 237
    As a former user of a Mopar Performance ECU, I would caution you that not only is 93 octane manditory, you need to make sure that the gas in your area is not the newer reformulated/oxygenated junk. In the Chicago area we have this stuff and unless I popped for the Union 76 100 oct. unleaded, I would have pinging. Now,this was in a 95 Ram 360cid, but you might want to find out about the gas and check with the MP techline if you want to go that route.
  • sg40739sg40739 Member Posts: 14
    friend of mine has a new Dakota, he said this morning it was about 10 degrees, said
    truck wouldn't start, he has full power but truck would not turn over at all, after a short
    time he went out to try again, same thing, just for fun tried one more time, turned over and
    started like nothing was wrong. Has anyone seen this?
  • cs18cs18 Member Posts: 10
    i could not wish this truck off on anyone,the engine has a ticking noise{not pre-ignition),the dash is rattling,it sucks gas like everything...i want my money back...it only has a thousand miles on it,i can already tell this is going to be a piece of junk...DO NOT buy one of these trucks! wait until you find another quad cab from another manufacture.....chrysler corp,I hope you are reading this
  • cs18cs18 Member Posts: 10
    i bought this at carl gregory in johnson city tenn...they are trying to tell me that the lifter will stop ticking after the truck gets broke in,(it is actually getting worse)
  • spike50spike50 Member Posts: 481
    ghostwriter336 - I thought my doors / windshield, etc. was allowing water to leak in a fill up the inch or so between the floor boards on the drives side. What really happened was that an earlier minor accident had opened up one of the seals on the HVAC unit. This opening allowed the water being condensed by the AC to bypass the drain line to the outside of the car. Instead it went under the carpet.

    Check your drain line. The AC runs all of the time on the 2000's and this could result in plenty of water.
  • deckdog1deckdog1 Member Posts: 8
    I am considering installing a remote starter on my 99 dakota club cab and was wondering if by doing this I would in any way chance voiding my factory warranty since I only have 27,000 miles on my truck. Also if anyone has any recommendations of a good, reliable remote starter I would appreciate any advice. Thanks.
  • schmidt8schmidt8 Member Posts: 1
    I own a 99 4wd sport/club cab Dakota, knock on wood it has been very good to me. I only have one complaint about my truck, it leans about 3/4" low on the front passenger side. The truck has aprox.50,000 miles on it, and I noticed this problem when it had about 4,000 miles. Yes. all the tires are inflated to factory spects, and No. the truck is not leaning because of the curf of the road. This might not seem like a big deal, but 3/4" in 6', about the width of the truck,is substantial. I went to the dealership, and called Dodge, they said it's within Dodge specs to be 3/4" to 1 1/2"low or high. I noticed this,kinda because I'm a carpenter and could tell the truck did not seem level, even when on level terain. Can any body give some insight, has any one else noticed this problem with they're truck? Ya and its a v8.
  • skylerkskylerk Member Posts: 67
    Here's a link to a similar thread over on MoparChat.com. There are several off-topic messages in the thread, but the most recent message (at the top of the page) may be useful in diagnosing your leaning Dakota.

    http://www.moparchat.com/ubb/Forum46/HTML/000385.html
  • bush66bush66 Member Posts: 1
    I am a new 2000 Flame Red Club cab owner looking for some recommendations for getting some long term protection against paint fade and oxidation. Red was not my first color choice, but couldn't pass up the 60 month 0.9 DC financing. Any thoughts would be appreciated.
  • redrosesredroses Member Posts: 4
    Your message board is very informative. I have learned a lot, thanks.
    I have decided to purchase a ST Club Cab, 5 speed manual transmission, 4.7L V6 engine, power windows, cruise, AC. Does anyone out there have one similar? If so have you been pleased with it?
    Also, anyone, I will be driving a combination of city/hiway , mostly city. I don't plan on towing anything at this time, but I keep my vehicles for 10+ years so who knows. My questions are: should I get the heavy duty engine cooling or a tow package? Does the tow package cut down on the mileage? (Stupid woman question I know). My concerns are performance and relatively good gas mileage. Any comments or suggestions would be welcome. Thanks.
  • bookittybookitty Member Posts: 1,303
    Actually Linda, the answer is a resounding "NO!" Why do I say this? Because the 4.7 is a V8. Okay Linda, enough teasing. If you keep your vehicles for the length of time described, I would certainly opt for the heavy duty service group. As far as the tow group is concerned, some of the same items are duplicated. My humble but honest opinion would be to order both options, and that way if the occasion to tow arises you are prepared. Plus, there are other devices that fit into the tow receiver such as carry platforms, load extenders and such. If you go with the 3.55 rear differential, this will offer the better mileage. Simply having the tow group does not affect mileage in itself, but towing will affect it somewhat. The 3.92 is desired if towing a larger load on a frequent basis. You did not mention whether you were ordering the 2WD or 4WD, but in either event, a limited slip differential is an extremely worthwhile and important option. With the 5 speed, it is most likely that your vehicle will have to be ordered from the factory, so some careful thought here will prevent "should have done" at a later time. Also Linda, there is a $500.00 discount available from the Farm Bureau for Dodge trucks. One must be a member for 30 days prior to taking delivery. Here is a link (URN) to get you the information (dues fees change from state to state, but I believe the maximum amount to be $75.00. www.fb.com. This will get you to the national site and you can access your state site from there. Then it is usually divided by counties. Please give careful thought to the V8 engine, as the V6 offers marginal power and provides no great return regarding mileage. If you have any further questions, I am certain that you will find honest and intelligent
    answers amongst this learned group of people. Good luck, and have a happy and healthy new year.

    Bookitty
  • tuvtesttuvtest Member Posts: 237
    first, there are no stupid questions. For answers, I can only give you my opinion. While the std. equipment is well designed, I always prefer to get the heavy duty equipment. I offers just that little bit more insurance against possible unforseen problems down the line. the price is not bad for what you get. I would get the whole hd pkg rather than just cooling. As for towing, again my personal preference is to have the factory install the equipment and wiring from the start rather than cobbling together connectors/wiring at a later time. The price is also reasonable for this pkg. compared to the aftermarket.
  • redrosesredroses Member Posts: 4
    Thanks guys for the input. I think I ment the 4.1 v6, but now I do have a question about the v8 engines. Is the gas mileage comparable? I would prefer better power. I am going with the 2WD. I live in Southern California now (no snow, very little rain) what would be the advantage of a limited slip differential? I don't plan to go off road. Thanks for the tip for the Farm Bureau discount. I'll look into it. Also Edmunds shows that A $1000 rebate is offered until the 8th, and Dodge is offering a $1000 cash allowance, and then the FB $500 discount. Does anyone know if that can all be combined? I hate being a woman and dealing with car salesmen. I want to have all the right info going in to the negotiations. Thanks again.
  • steve234steve234 Member Posts: 460
    The V6 is a 3.9L. Go with the 4.7 V8. It will give you as good gas mileage as the V6 and is a smoother running engine. You should also get the trailer towing package. You never know when you might need it and it will help the resell value.
  • bookittybookitty Member Posts: 1,303
    Linda, there is a very definite advantage to having a limited slip differential, even in wet road conditions, mud on the highway, etc. When you consider that you are keeping the truck for 10 years or so, amortizing the costs of the various options over the period of time makes them more affordable. The Farm Bureau discount is usable regardless of any other program and/or combination. When you contact the Farm Bureau, the discount is listed under "Member Benefits." You can access dealer invoice pricing for the truck and options on Edmunds' site, and print out the information. I would not mention the Farm Bureau discount when negotiating, or you will find it buried within the deal. After you know exactly what you want, get some quotes via the Interned. Remember, that the Farm Bureau discount is in addition to whatever deal is quoted. Then if you wish, you can shop locally to see what the local dealer will quote you. Because of the 5 speed you will most likely have to order a vehicle, and that in itself reduces the level of confusion regarding vehicles that are "on the ground" and may be equipped differently. Whatever you do, don't sell yourself short. I realize that some car sales people will attempt to pull stuff on a woman, but you are a woman with a bunch of informed friends who will support you. You've got this forum on your side. Do yourself a big favor, and opt for the 4.7 V8. It will deliver comparable mileage and you will be pleased with its smooth power. Please don't hesitate to pose questions.

    Bookitty
  • tuvtesttuvtest Member Posts: 237
    First, the 4.7l v8 is a wonderful engine with about 30 yr of technology over the 3.9l v6. better power, better,or at least equal mpg, better emissions (I hear big in CA), and lastly being hard to quantify, much more enjoyable to drive. All this for just $570 (I think), in the long run a bargain.
    The benefits of a limited slip diff is that instead of power just going to one wheel, the engine power is routed thru a "clutch pack" in the differential allowing power to be routed to whichever wheel has better traction. This is useful not only in offroading or snow, but in general driving or rain. Pick-up trucks are notorious for being light in the back end, and this helps diminish (not eliminate) the "fish tailing" that can be common with trucks in inclemate weather.
    My advice for dealing with the sales staff is to go in confidnte, with your prices figure out ahead of time. Do not play the "monthly payment" game but look at the amount over (or under) invoice (which you already have from Edmunds). Then subtract the rebates.(Dodge=$1000,FB=$500). Also keep in mind, you do not have to finance thru the dealer, you own bank/credit union may offer the same or better rate. Remember, YOU are in charge of this transaction of the salesperson makes you uncomfortable, leave. It's that easy. These days there are enough options for buying a car that we as cosumers do not have to put up with the tricks of the old days. One last thing, keep the negotiations for the new car seperate from your trade in until the end to prevent the salesperson from playing games that way.
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