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Comments
You were absolutely correct - the noise was caused by the clogged crankcase filter. I can't believe that my local Ford Dealer did not know that it existed. After I told them the part number they read the description and sure enough it was the crankcase filter just like you said.
I had a the same Ford Dealer tell me that the noise was caused by "a booster pump in the transmission" and that if I did not rebuild the transmission soon it would eventually fail and end up costing me a lot more. I was quoted $2,800 to rebuild the tranny. Mmmmm, I can't wait to visit the service department on Monday and talk to the Service Manager: the car does not make the noise any more and runs better than when I bought it! All for a $15 filter!!!!
I can't thank you enough! Thanks again and I hope to someday help someone else out in the same fashion that you helped me out.
Take care,
Maurice
I just bought a 98 ZX2 escort last week with 86000 miles on it. here is the problem: When i accelerate to upto 20-30 mph everything is normal, but when i try to accelerate further there is a sudden jerk, its almost like the car is about to stall. But the car just stutters for a second or two and then runs smooth. The gas was near empty so I filled it up, but the problem persists, though to a lesser degree. This is my first ever car, so I really do not know what is happening to the car. I would appreciate if someone could diagnose it before I try to take it to the mechanic.
Thanks in advance.
Abhijith
1. Check the carfax history at carfax.com
2. Take it to a mechanic before purchase and do a 60 point/30 point check on the car
I, too, had the tranny diagnosis for this problem. I'm so glad I came here before having the "repair" done! Yes, this filter fixed my '99, and it hasn't run this well in a long time. My local parts store had a hard time finding the part #, so here's the Motorcraft part number for others who might need this fix: FA-1661 F8CZ-6A768-AB (Breather Filter). Thanks, guys, for saving me a $2000 repair bill that wouldn't have solved a thing!
Mark
Mark
battery,ground etc. and everything looks good and tight.
My next guess is the belt tensioner may need to be tensioned. I have a 2000 zx by the way .
Bull! I have had my 99zx2 since Jan. '99. At my first tire replacement (prob within 1 year;) went up to 195/60/R14 on the five-star 'cool' wheels. If you have the swirl in the wheel design, I suspect that would could go wider, but be ready to spring for 50 series tires. The 60 and 50 are for a ratio of tread-width to side-wall height.
Short version: Go wider, buth maintain overall tire radius.
The shops have to recommend that you only use the factory size tire, cause if they tell you to change it and you lose-control-mow-down-eight-people one day, they don't want anything to do with the blame.
BTW I have had the same set of Yokohama's on my zx2 for 4.5 years and they also have terrific traction. You usually lose one of the benefits to get the other, but not with these.
I also have a problem with my 2000 zx2. There is a vaccuum hose that runs from the front of the engine to the back and then goes into a 90 degree bend. That bend has cracked before and replaced. But now the hose pops off periodically and causes the car to die every time the car goes to an idle. Has anyone else ever had this problem? My sister also had to replace the bend.
death though. It kept going up to about 2000 rpm's and then it would bounce off the peg. It finally died at about
8:12 a.m. RIP. This is leading me to believe I have a short somewhere. Any one got an idea where?
Matt
Chilton's manual tells what a volt meter should read for each. If these check out, you may have a wiring problem and I do not envy you. If there is a problem with the cam or crank position sensor, the tach may be the least of your problems in the near future. (Hope it isn't the crank sensor...must remove exhaust manifold first ;( )
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Robert
i have almost 290000kms on the car and ford wanted around $40CDN for the hose, so instead i just rolled up some aluminum from a pop can, slid that into the end of the 90 degree part so the hose wouldn't implode at the leak anymore (but the hose still functions)...then i duct-taped it...works fine now...
you might want to check that you put the little spring clamp back on where the hose connects to the intake manifold...or maybe try putting a new hose clamp that you can tighten with a screwdriver over it if the original just isn't doing it anymore...
Since my other car was out of town I had to get it fixed by my friendly local mechanic. Only 400 balloons.
But its running good and has recovered the lost power I had noticed. I did'nt know that the fuel injection had a direct connection to the alternator on this. So I learned something too.
Problem #1: The temp gauge is out of control. It used to be below the C when I would start it, and gradually work its way up to a little left of center once it had warmed up. Well, lately, it hadn't been starting anywhere near the C, and usually began at the middle, sometimes floating back and forth. One day it was getting closer and closer to the red zone, so I took it in because I thought it was going to overheat. Well, after letting it sit for an hour, it never did overheat. Now, it starts at the H line, and is currently resting between the H line and the red zone when I'm driving it. The coolant was just topped off, and didn't help any. The needle just kind of floats around, but mainly stays on the hot side more than anything anymore. This is making me a nervous wreck to drive, but since I'm at school I have no other mode of transportation. I also wondered, since I don't have an owner's manual (and would it even address this anyway) if there is a red light for when it really does overheat, and is that connected to the gauge itself or to something completely different? Has/Is anyone else experiencing this? What is a recommended fix?
Problem #2: When turning the car on, if I want to turn on the heater/air conditioner, I have to wait until the car has been running for a while, or it will just die. A while as in having driven it a few blocks. Turning on the headlights right after I turn the car on will not kill it, but they will dim and the RPM's will change, and then it will be normal again. The defroster went either way-killed it, or just dimmed the lights and started working. Any answers for that? I've tried skimming the posts, and haven't found anything that's been answered for it, but maybe I missed some. Can anyone help out here?
I love my car, but even just the temp gauge is making me a nervous wreck driving it! I've already had a couple coil packs changed, and the computer to those when it started doing the same thing the third time. And, I've also had a water pump fixed. The temp gauge had acted up before, but the problem had gone away, but now it's back and worse than ever.
I had the same exact problem last month.
It is a temperature sending unit.
It costs only $15.00.
thank you
willy.
I wonder if the temp. sending unit you're talking about is the same part I'm talking about. Where does it sit on the engine?
The crank case breather was attached to the rear valve cover by a small section of hose. The actual part was about 1/2 the size of a tomato soup can. Another hose leading from the part went into the base of the air filter housing.
While looking at the engine, the temp. sending unit is just below and to the left of the thermostat and just above and to the right of the PCV valve.
This car is possessed. Has been, and I guess it always will be. I'll let you know what they say it is. (And at least it doesn't go back to acting normal now, so they can see what it does-that's why it still hadn't been fixed-noone would touch it since it wasn't acting up for them).
Thanks.
We replaced the wrong sensor. I really didn't feel too comfortable with my dad digging too far into it anyway-he wasn't even sure what he was looking for (worked on Fords in the 70s, but won't do much with them now).
Thanks for all your help-runs like a charm now!
Thanks!
A couple of mechanics looked at it. No one can tell me why it cranks over about seven or eight times before starting.
It used to crank once or twice. Runs good once it starts.
Anybody have an idea?
Want to thank you very much for your information regarding that "squeal". My wife's '98 ZX2 was doing exactly the same thing. Our mechanic could not find anything; said he didn't hear it, but did change the electric cooling fan (said the bearings were going bad), but the noise was STILL there $330 later! I ordered the breather filter for $14.44, installed it yesterday afternoon, took a 50 mile drive today, and the sound is completely gone. Again, thanks very much for your wonderful information!
Domenico55
It really doesn't have to be replaced but just cleaned out with Gumout. As long as it's clean and the spring is loose, it's okay.
Tom