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Everyone has stuff for their impreza's, but what about me? Humph!!
-juice
Here are some sites that I have found:
www.ipdusa.com/subaru.aspx
www.partstrain.com/products/prodpage.html
www.subaruparts.com (This was the best)
-mike
rear vinyl bumper cover
rear wiper arm (never leave aluminum in muriatic acid for too long)
rear trunk latch assy
Legacy GT ground under spoilers
rear wagon spoiler
Most of this is stuff I would hope to find at a junk yard but, they don't really sell small parts like these separately anymore. Are these things that I could find at a dealer for less than $100?
There are other things as well but, I have been able to locate some stuff on eBay and at subaruparts.com. That site has been the best yet. They don't seem to overcharge and they have a lot of stuff.
I do have one other question. I've been thinking of replacing the original seats. The second row doesn't have head rests...well, that's my b.s. excuse, I only care about my passengers a little bit. Anyway, if I wanted to replace the seats with the seats from say a 2000-2005, what would that consist of? Could I just swap them or would I have to change the brackets as well?
All help is much appreciated
Colby
Now I just need to adjust the Gain % and High Cut knobs. I think I have the Gain up too high right now :P .
Those two knobs are flush to the box and accept a philips head screwdriver to make the adjustments. Realizing that they would be quite difficult to get to after installation, I made two small plastic sticks that I glued (Elmers) into each adjuster knob. That should make it a tad easier to make the necessary minor tweaks.
Alan
98 OBW Ltd (thump... thump... thump)
that fuse blowing is weird... maybe you grounded the lighter against the chassis?
~c
When I was trying to move the panel out, I had to move my AT gear selector into low which means I needed to turn the ignition to On. My wires to the lighter are either short or they are tied up / hung up inside the console so that I decided to loosed the threaded ring that secures it to the plood panel. I think that the metal ring must have made the contact that blew the fuse.
Alan
98 OBW Ltd
~c
Now you guys got me psyched to do it....
Steve
Wow, does it sound nice. Maybe I have a tin ear (you know, us 48 yr olds don't have the acuity of you kids any more), but with the tweeters and subwoofer added, the base radio (with CD player added) sounds great to me.
Steve
Steve
-juice
I put 100W bulbs in the high beam position of my '00 Legacy GT about, let's see, 4 years ago. They're still in there and still going strong. Ordinary Hella 100W halogens, no fancy names and no fancy claims -- just more watts than stock.
Now that I think about it, the only bulb I ever remember replacing in the GT is a fog light bulb.
Cheers,
-wdb
Steve
-juice
Cheers Pat.
My '98 Forester does not have them but our 2002 Legacy does.
-juice
Cheers Pat.
-juice
I thought about replacing the low beam bulbs too but all I read seemed to indicate that all of the supposedly sooper-dooper extra-whatever replacement bulbs suffered from one or more of the following:
short life
performance only marginally better than stock
performance worse than stock
I wasn't doing it for looks, so all of the hype about blue this and crystal that was wasted on me. I could care less what people see when my car is coming at them, I care about what *I* can see from the driver's seat!
I also replaced the fog bulbs with higher wattage bulbs but they lasted less than a month. The housings apparently couldn't dissipate enough heat and the bulbs cooked themselves. (I knew about this potentially being a problem but I wanted to give it a go anyway.) I replaced them with the Hella yellows in the standard wattage, which I like very much and which have held up very well.
Cheers,
-wdb
The OB uses nice, large fogs, and seem to be able to handle a little more heat. The 9006/9005 swap takes you up in wattage slightly (65 vs 55), but the light output jumps from 1000 lumens to 1700 lumens. Again, I did them one at a time over a few weeks in an attempt to have some kind of controlled experiment.
Steve
-mike
Ah..... a more pleasant sounding music.
Couldn't install the tweeters, as I could not find the harness
Does the OBS in that MY comes pre-wired or anyone knows how I could wire the tweeter up?
Other thing I found. The rear speakers are 8 ohms vs the fronts 4 ohms. No wonder it had sounded sooooo cheap. So for those who still have their '99 OBS or earlier, if you've swapped out the fronts or thinking of doing it, upgrade the rears too. You HU will thank you
-Dave
However (at the risk of getting my hand slapped), there is a site called LEGACYGT which has many technical threads specific to the 2.5 turbo legacy/outback platform and all sorts of modifications.
FWIW, I'm happy with my LGT as it is. Some modifications like an ECU chip may invalidate your warrantee. First and easiest mod? Change the tires. Rob M.
It is highly unlikely you have tapped into all 250 HPs and expense them all already while daily commuting. I drive a 03 WRX Wagon and to date I have not even used all 227 HPs its got under the hood.
Drive the OB XT for a little longer, say till 2006, then research into uppipe and/or TBE mods.
Opening up the exhaust flow to and from the turbo should help with spooling response, or just simple handling mods like tires, suspensions, brakes, etc.
-Dave
If you think this is a good thing to get please let me know the site is
http://cobbtuning.com/legacy/accessport.html
Both Cobb and Vishnu have been offering similar power upgrades for a while now. While I don't recommend tinkering with the ECU before other important upgrades (ie. driver skills, braking hardware, suspension and tires), these two vendors seem to have built a significant customer base.
If I were to chose between the two, I probably would go with the Cobb given it's flexibility.
Ken
Vince
I just found this and it cant void the warenty because it can be set from stage one performance mode and can go back to stock when you take it to the delar.
In all honesty, you're venturing into "playing with fire" territory
-Dave
I now have over 8000 miles on the car with the AccessPort and have not had any issues--the car is simply much more enjoyable to drive--mostly because of the increased responsiveness--if there was a way to stiffen the suspension a bit it would be even better, but to date I haven't been able to find any suspension mods for the Outback. If you decide to get the ACcessport, be advised that the first 50-100 miles after installation you will not feel any difference--the ECU has to "learn" the new map before you really feel the difference--once it does--you will notice it right away.
I hope this is helpful to you.
Good Luck.
I would probably go with the Vishnu given Cobb's handling of lucien's problem with his Cobb rear sway bar (shearing the end links).
-Dennis
-mike
Actually, any real world experience with the auto-climate control would be appreciated too. Thanks!
Reflashing is the best way to go, especially if you have no desire to do much else with the car other than give it a little more oomph. Cobb, Vishnu, whomever - most are akin to the Ecutek reflash (see more at Ecutek or I-Speed). This provides a reliable remapping of certain variables resulting in a more powerful daily driver.
I had GRD Performance reflash and dyno tune my 02 WRX Wgn in addition to installing a full APS race exhaust (UP and TBE). The results were amazing - stock whp/wtq in the 165-170 range and, as modified/tuned, in the 215-220 range. That's real, everyday power.
As for the comments about "tapping HP" that really doesn't make much sense as it is all driver dependent. Personally, the more interesting discussion is accessing torque in turbo cars, not the HP.
Regardless of which reseller/installer of an ECU reflash you go with the gains available are a value relative to other bolt-on solutions.
The author, Peaty, who's well respected in the Subaru community, and is also really decent about answering questions, mentioned that when he upgraded his intercooler hoses, he actually had oil leak out of the intercooler while it was setting on his garage floor.
The install doesn't look very tricky, the main challenge is where to mount the device. Perrin makes a small unit that looks like it would be fairly easy to rig up a mounting bracket.
Anyone else out there think it might be worth it? Any downsides? I mean other than my dealer telling me the entire car is no longer under warranty :P
TIA
Larry
Now I'm wondering about an intake system (haha one step at a time). I was told that for a twin turbo a cold air intake system is not necessary and won't make too much of a difference. This same person told me to just go with the RAM intake. Is this true? Any information is always appreciated. Thanks.
-Jeff
go to a reputable shop. don't go someplace just because it's the absolute cheapest you can find. a quality shop might charge $125-170 for a typical 4 door car. more for a van or large SUV.
there's really only 3 ways to do it, well, up to that depending on where you are. many states restrict how dark you can tint the front side glass; for example, my home state of Kansas allows no darker than 35%. the percentage is how much light gets through-- 5% is limo tint. Arizona, Texas and several other southern states allow 5% tint even on the front side doors.
first method - tint to the max legal allowed on all windows. in Kansas, this would be 35% on the front side doors and 20% anywhere else. This achieves the max sun/UV protection allowed by your local laws.
however different tint strengths can be readily noticed and to some it's unappealing, so they instead choose to match it all-- since the front doors are only allowed 35%, that's what the back gets too.
the third way is to go to a shop and pay cash, and get no receipt.. but you can get 5% on the whole car if you want.
there will be some dusk & night adjustment for you. it's not that bad unless you have 5% tint, the rest is fairly easy to get to used to.
~Colin
-juice
juice - thanks for the photo. That gives me a very good idea of how dark the 35% limit in my state is. Seems great to me... I'm not really into dark tints. 35% seems just right... effective without blocking too much out. I think it'll look great against my Regatta Red paint.
I think that was Ken's old Forester, correct me if I'm wrong folks.
-juice
and
35% on the front four, 20% on the rear three:
Good luck with your choice.
Michael
Looks *pimp* by the way.
-juice
I'll have to post a pic or two once I get this done.
35% front and 20% rear
FYI, although the Forester may technically be classified as a car, for tinting purposes most people use the truck/SUV guidelines.
-Frank