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Subaru Crew - Modifications II

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  • michael_lee76michael_lee76 Member Posts: 45
    Man, I think I got myself into more trouble than I thought. I purchased Rear Differential Protector for my 2006 Forester from online store to save some money, and now I need to buy a torque wrench and jack stands. (I have never worked on this kind of stuff before...)

    any good brand/place for torque wrench/jack stands to buy?
  • davidd4davidd4 Member Posts: 1
    Can anyone give me detailed instructions for removing the radio head unit from 2005 Outback 2.5i Wagon (automatic transmission). I want to install an FM modulator so that I can connect my Sirius satellite radio receiver directly into the the radio. I need to know how to remove the dashboard trim around the radio without damaging the trim. Thanks. davidd4
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    You can do that job with Rhino Ramps, about $35 at shops like Pep Boys.

    They are versatile, and low profile means even my Miata can drive up them for oil changes.

    You'll need jack stands to do things like rotate tires and work on brakes.

    -juice
  • michael_lee76michael_lee76 Member Posts: 45
    Thanks for your reply, Juice.

    I happen to find this in Pepboy, check this out.

    Link to Pepboy Ad

    Check out the first page item.. Torin Big Red 36" Creeper, 2 ton Double locking jack stands (2 of them), and 2 tone trolley jack for 30 bucks? this sounds like a good deal, but I don't know how good this brand is. Also would 2 ton be good enough for Forester?

    Thanks for your help.
  • masanmasan Member Posts: 77
    Thank you, Steve.

    I notice that Tire Rack lists wheels with varying offsets for the Forester: +52, +45, +50. There are a few +48's in the more expensive range.

    What about the difference in sizes: some are listed as 16 x 6.5; others are 16 x 7 and 16 x 7.5.

    Will any of these work just as well as stock steelies or alloys? I don't understand all the differences and want to get something to replace the steelies which are rusting and peeling around the lug nuts.
  • fibber2fibber2 Member Posts: 3,786
    Unfortunately, not owning a Forester, I cannot tell you much. In the case of the Outback wagon ('02), the stock alloy was 16x6.5, and the Fox5's are 16x7. I don't remember (or even know where to look it up...) what the correct offset is, or what the Fox5 are. I wimped out and asked TireRack if they listed these as a recommended match, and if they guaranteed the fit of wheel and tire to the application. I did check with Dunlop to be sure that the 225x60-16 tires would be OK on the half inch wider rim, which it is. So far, no problems.... But I admit that I did this mod as a leap of faith without checking any deeper into it.

    Steve
  • jfljfl Member Posts: 1,396
    I believe some tire websites list the acceptable rim widths for each size of tire so you can check if a 7" rim is okay fro your application.

    Jim
  • stantontstantont Member Posts: 148
    Has anyone had any experience putting driving lights in the existing bumper ports on a 2002 Legacy L (not the GT)? I would like more high-beam light, especially on the shoulders, and fill-in on winding roads. There are factory lights available that fit, but aftermarket would probably be cheaper, if they will fit into the existing bumper ports.

    BTW, I finally found road test data on the NA engine with stick shift, in an Edmunds comparo test. It verified my seat-of-the-pants impression, that the stick is MUCH faster than the automatic (0-60 in about 9 sec instead of 11.7 sec). All this 10 months after I bought the car, but hey, it's always nice to feel vindicated...

    Also BTW, this Legacy L wagon is proving to be the nicest people/bikes/canoe/kayaks transporter I have ever owned. 2 people and 2 bikes ride inside, wheels still on. 2-3 kayaks or one canoe on the Thule roof racks, solid as can be at 65-70 mph.

    Great car!

    Stanton
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    $30 for all that is a screaming bargain. Do you have the stores locally? If so check it out in person. 2 tons is plenty, you only lift one corner or one half at a time.

    Rims - call Tire Rack, work with them. Stock size is 6.5" wide, but I went with a 7" wide rim and they fit.

    Tire Rack is conservative, they told me I could not get a 225/60R16 tires on a 16x7" rim to fit. Discount Tire Direct said it would. Tire Rack lost a sale, and they were wrong - my tires have never rubbed, and they have plenty of miles now.

    So work with the techs. They basically won't let you buy a rim they don't think will fit. They don't even let you push the size much. Finally, they adjust the offsets to make sure it'll fit.

    -juice
  • michael_lee76michael_lee76 Member Posts: 45
    Hey, Thanks again for your reply.

    In fact, I went and bought that jack package. however, I had to return it today.... It did not go high enough!! the highest the jack can go is just right below the frame of Forester.. I will have to buy something more expensve now...

    About the rim, I will take your advise. I heard rims will go on sale pretty soon everywhere. I will get them in a week or two. how much did you pay for your rims and tires?
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Well I did some mods on the legacy....

    Bosal Downpipe and custom race pipe to an STi midpipe and the already in place Scooby Sport axleback. I haven't actually driven it on the street yet though. I trailered the car up to Watkins Glen last weekend. Well let's just say it is definitely freed up a bit. Either my stock cats were pretty restrictive or all the stories about the DP and cat really holding up the 2.2L turbo were true.

    Anyway at Watkins I ran in the instructor group and with the heavy rain combined with my Faulken Azenis Tires I was able to pass everyone on Saturday. This included 7 vettes, 2 M3s, 2 944s and 2 GT3s, oh and 2 race Vipers. :) It was a great feeling to have the vette guys and race guys and the GT3 guys come up to me afterward and say "what do you have in there, you were running up my butt like I was standing still" I said "Not much 165hp, 130k miles, 100+ track days, and All Wheel Drive" Sunday whenever they saw my HID driving lights in their mirror they knew to just give me the pointby.

    We've decided to actually get rid of the Impreza L racecar and are going to convert over the 94 Legacy Turbo. We should have it ready for the spring race season.

    -mike
  • bluesubiebluesubie Member Posts: 3,497
    Nice! Maybe one of these days, I'll get brave and open up the exhaust on the FXT. :)

    We now have a GC6 for the new driver in the house. We need to visit Lee in the future for some tint.

    -Dennis
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    Sounds like a fun way to spend a rainy weekend.

    What's a pointby?

    Steve, Host
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    In an HPDE (High Performance Driving Event) you can only pass in the straight aways with a pointby from the car being overtaken. This way it is a safe pass and the person being passed and the passer both know it is going to happen. As oppessed to racing where there are no points and you can pass anywhere.

    -mike
  • njswamplandsnjswamplands Member Posts: 1,760
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    The company that did ours the first time hasn't updated their website in over a year and we haven't heard from them lately. I will probably invest in a digital video camera to record some in-car stuff once we get it all setup. But it'll likely be at the lower end of our list of modifications to do to the car. On the list right now to do is:

    Purchase and Install:
    Cage
    Sparco EVO 2 Seat
    Race Harnesses
    Rear Sway Bar
    Fire Extinguisher
    Whiteline Poly Steering Rack Bushings

    Items to Install:
    GAB Coilovers or JIC Coilovers (we have both just have to decide which we want to put in)
    STi Group N Motor Mounts
    Gauges (Oil Pressure, Temp, Boost, EGT)

    Hmm I think that's it for now. I'm sure I'm forgetting something though.

    -mike
  • njswamplandsnjswamplands Member Posts: 1,760
    that we saw in your previous video.

    that video made is so clear where you pulled and where you got reeled in
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    That was an enduro race where everyone was classed together. I was up against everything from a full E36 BMW Race car to a NASCAR Truck. Also the impreza there is an AT and I was running on 205 width tires. Pretty much put that car together for that race to just get my liscence. The 94 Legacy Turbo is a different beast.

    -mike
  • jimmyp1jimmyp1 Member Posts: 640
    I LOVE hearing about my old car doing these things! Great job, Mike.

    Did you hear about my new Subaru? :) If I keep it up like I did the Legacy Turbo over the next ten years, do you want first dibs on it? :)

    Jim
  • michael_lee76michael_lee76 Member Posts: 45
    Finally, I installed the rear differential protector. the funny thing is I didn't even need the jack and jack stand. I was able to just crawl under my forester and do the job. but man, those bolts were tightened so much!! my arms will be definitely sore by tomorrow.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Didn't hear about your new subie, but I'd definitely take dibs on any of your cars! :)

    -mike
  • jimmyp1jimmyp1 Member Posts: 640
    2006 STI Black on Silver, buddy! Unbelievable. I told myself I was buying it because I wouldn't want/need to mod it, but....now I want to drop it a bit. Just a little. Wanna fly to Texas to help install? :) I move back into the house in two weeks, at which point my garage will become a modders dream-come-true, if I have my way.

    Jim

    http://www.thepearsonhome.com/special_hosting.htm
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    I would just put the STi Pinks in. Don't go too crazy modding it, the STi is pretty good stock. Also in about 8-9 years when I buy it, I want to have it as near stock as possible! ;) Good luck with it buddy and one of these day's we'll have to get together, maybe if I race down at Carolina Motor Speedway you could head up and see the old beast in action! :)

    -mike
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Michael - I bought my rims long ago, they were being discontinued then so I doubt you'll find them now (MB Motoring MB6). I paid $75 per corner for the rims, for 4 with tires mounted, balanced, and delivered, it came in at a bargain price of $643, IIRC. I bet today you could not find similar ones for less than $800.

    They're cast, not forged, nothing too fancy. 16"x7", wider than stock.

    -juice
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    mike - got any recent action shots for us?

    -juice
  • jimmyp1jimmyp1 Member Posts: 640
    We have a new private track (don't know if I'm using the right language) very close to me. Outrageous annual fees of $15k, but groups (Subaru/Audi/Miata type groups) are already lobbying for special days for organized events, and the response has been promising so far. I would definitely take the STI out there. If you could ever hoof it all the way down here, I would LOVE the instruction at a day like that as there is no question in my mind that I am the weak link in the racing equation.

    Jim
  • locke2clocke2c Member Posts: 5,038
    1) they will consume a lot more tires, brakes and engine longevity. this really makes sense considering the time on track compared to autocross. summer tires will last a few events if not overdriven but it's still very heavy wear.

    2) it is very difficult to damage a vehicle during autocross but it does rarely happen. conversely, totalling a car at a track day is something that you will see not infrequently.

    but there's no question you learn a lot more at a track day and have more fun. it's just that the risk and cost rises as well...

    ~Colin
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    I've found tire wear at track events to be significantly less than that of auto-x. Brakes are really the item that wears quicker, and engine longevity, I'm not so sure it'll hurt the longevity. Heck the Legacy did about 10 track days this year and just turned 130k miles at Watkins w/o any issues so far other than brake pad and rotor replacement.

    As for wrecking, it's very in frequent that I've seen a car wreck at an event. I've seen more wrecks at track events than auto-x, yes, but I wouldn't say it's "frequent" Also it's usually a driver over-driving his car that has caused the few wrecks I've seen (overdriving on cold R compounds, overdriving an AWD car beyond the drivers ability)

    Anyway Jim, keep me posted maybe I'll fly down for an event sometime :)

    -mike
  • fibber2fibber2 Member Posts: 3,786
    After 4 years of silent complaining, I finally decided to do something about the lumbar support position on my '02 OBW. At 5'11", I am by no means excessively tall, yet at any position other than the seat cushion all of the way down, the lumbar support hits me high on the hip, rather than the small of the back. It needs to be about 2-3" higher than it was.

    Thanks to the instructions posted by Pat about a year ago, I took off the backing panel for the drivers seat. You slide it straight up about 0.75", pull it out at the bottom to clear the lower hooks, then slide it down to release the upper hooks. The cloth piece can remain connected at the bottom as there is enough slack to move the panel thru this procedure.

    The lumbar support is a white plastic pad that is moved by a quarter inch steel rod. The rod is connected to a cantilever, linked to the handle on the side over the center console. My desire was to add an extension to the existing rod, but positioning (as in upside down relative to the relocation site), and space availability made it impossible.

    In the end, I added a 17" threaded quarter inch rod across the seat frame, anchored high up on the lumbar cantilever hardware, and placed the plastic pad on this new cross piece. The upside is that the lumbar support is now 2+" above the original site, the downside is that it is now fixed in place. So far, I like the applied pressure, but may add a bend or two to the rod to decrease the pressure slightly.

    Steve
  • masanmasan Member Posts: 77
    More help needed, please, with replacement wheels for my Forester. I need to get them soon as my tires are about gone. Thanks for any input!

    Factory steelies are 16 x 6.5, I believe, with an offset of 48.

    Which would you purchase:

    OEM alloys from 1st Subaru Parts at $527 a set which would be 16 x 6.5 and 48, exactly matching the original specifications
    or
    Tire Rack wheels at $300-$476 a set which would be 16 x 7 and offset of +50
    Kazera KZ-U or Sport Edition D4, D5, F2, F7
    or
    Tire Rack wheels
    TR Motorsport RB5 which would be 16 x 6.5 and +50
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Correct me if I'm wrong, but isn't that offset is moving the wider wheel in the wrong direction? i.e. closer to the spring perch?

    Half of the wheel width will go on each side, so a 1/2" wider wheel will already be 1/4" closer to the spring base. Plus another 2mm, that's pretty close. Tire Rack is conservative, though, so I doubt they'd sell it to you if they thought it would not fit.

    My offset went in the other direction. I got 40mm offset, putting the wheel center farther from the spring perch, and allowing for enough clearance for my wider wheels (also 7" wide) and wider tires to boot (225mm). I have no rubbing whatsoever.

    I'm pretty sure a smaller offset would be better. 40-45mm or so.

    Having said that, my guess is it would fit.

    Where's lark6, paging lark6. He had a set of rims that did rub, let's ask him about what offsets he had.

    -juice
  • lark6lark6 Member Posts: 2,565
    Where's lark6, paging lark6. He had a set of rims that did rub, let's ask him about what offsets he had.

    Hello, somebody call me? :confuse:

    On my first Forester ('00 S, SF body) I wanted to run a plus-one wheel/tire setup from late spring to late fall. I went through some trial and error with the folks at Tire Rack, who at the time hadn't encountered someone who wanted to do that. I first tried 225/55-17 tires on a 52mm offset wheel and found they rubbed front and rear. Ditto for 225/50-17 tires on the 52mm wheels. I then had some fruitful e-mail exchanges with the folks from Prodrive in the UK, who had been fitting plus-one setups to the SF Forester turbos as part of their WRSport package. They recommended using the 225/50-17 tires with a 48mm offset wheel. Their wheel of choice was a Speedline model which was at the time not available in the US or, in the alternative, the OZ Superleggera. Long story short, I bought a set of Superleggeras, mounted the 225/50-17s on them and had no rubbing issues.

    After I sold the '00 I kept the plus-one wheels and tires and transferred them to my '05 XT (SG body), again with no rubbing problems. The Speedline wheels are now available as accessories from Subaru dealers in the UK. IIRC bluesubie used some UK connections to source a set for his XT.

    Times have changed; there are a lot of people who are running a wider variety of tire sizes and wheel offsets - plus-ones, plus-twos and more - with varying success. Many are apparently using takeoff WRX STi wheels with no problems, for example. There's an online forum dedicated solely to Foresters (I won't name it here but it's an obvious name.com) that can give you even more info than I.

    Hope this helps,
    Ed
  • bluesubiebluesubie Member Posts: 3,497
    Hey Ed,

    Did you see that Prodrive's Forester muffler is now available in the U.S.? :) The U.S. PPP will be out soon as well.

    -Dennis
  • lark6lark6 Member Posts: 2,565
    No Dennis, I didn't; I'll have to look into that. I'm not a "favorite son" with the Prodrive folks, but I did have positive discussions with them in the past. Their relationship with SoA isn't established as it is with Subaru UK; however that relationship and the access it's allowed them to Subaru cars gives me a better comfort level with their products than with those offered by other vendors. (Opening can, hoping worms don't fall out... :blush: ) IMO they're in that not-quite-factory, not-quite-aftermarket area, just a little less factory than SPT/STi.

    Ed
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Thanks for the data point, Ed.

    -juice
  • masanmasan Member Posts: 77
    I'm staying with 16" wheels and tires.

    It is confusing because the 16" wheels listed on Tire Rack for the Forester vary: +42, +50, +52, +53. There is an ASA JS1, 16 x 7, at +42, so I guess that would be better.

    However, I'm beginning to think that I should go with the OEM alloys for peace of mind. I don't want to get something that will rub or put too much stress on the bearings.

    Thanks for the info.
  • locke2clocke2c Member Posts: 5,038
    the diameter doesn't matter, it's the width and offset. Ed posted a lot of good info but it was incomplete.. unless I missed it somewhere, he never said what width his wheels were. I believe they were 7", in which case you would want to use the same offset as him.

    in other words, I've been out of the Subaru game a while but I do think that +42mm on a 7" rim is way wrong. that would rub on the outer fender lip a lot.

    ~Colin
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    ...but not a Forester.

    Foresters have a lot more fender clearance than Imprezas do.

    My rim is 16"x7" wide and offset is 40mm, so according to your math my tire would have shredded off by now. :P

    And remember - my tires are 10mm wider than stock, and also 6mm taller, and they *still* don't rub.

    As far as I can tell, what comes closest to touching is actually the front mud flap. With the steering turned slightly to the side, the tire comes pretty close to the mud flap, another 10mm and it would rub.

    Basically the Forester gives you a little more freedom in that regard. Ed's rubbed because his was in too far, too close to the spring perch, I believe.

    The pic below gives you an idea of how much more fender clearance you have. This is with flares, wider rims, and bigger tires.

    -juice
  • locke2clocke2c Member Posts: 5,038
    he just said they rubbed 'front and rear'. he didn't specify where but since you seem to remember where, I'll defer to you.

    however I still suspect that +42 is really low. :)

    ~c
  • masanmasan Member Posts: 77
    So that is why I will stay with my stock +48 16 x 16.5 steelies or order the OEM alloys! This is over my head.

    Tire Rack has 16 x 7 wheels for the Forester ranging from +42-53. Quite a range. :confuse:
  • lark6lark6 Member Posts: 2,565
    the diameter doesn't matter, it's the width and offset. Ed posted a lot of good info but it was incomplete.. unless I missed it somewhere, he never said what width his wheels were. I believe they were 7", in which case you would want to use the same offset as him.


    Shame on me. The OZs are 17x7, offset +48mm.

    Ed
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Hmm, maybe it's because the lower profile tires have less deflection? Nah, that shouldn't matter except where the rubber meets the road. Near the wheel well it's unloaded.

    Or the width of the contact patch is closer to the section width because of the way the tire is designed (i.e. more squared off)?

    Or the fender liner on yours was slightly different than on mine? The intake did change a bit. I think they re-tuned the rear suspension for less dive that year. Small changes, but you never know.

    Mine have never rubbed, and you guys know I've put tons of payload on that puppy. Roof rack, towing, you name it.

    -juice
  • barriostkdbarriostkd Member Posts: 71
    Hi Guys,

    I had a 22mm Perrin Rear Sway Bar and Whiteline endlinks installed on my '04 WRX sedan back in May. Handling noticeably improved w/ the upgrade, but the ride became noisy when going over speed bumps or road imperfections. Lately it's become even noisier w/ a lot of squeaky sounds even when I turn into my driveway or going over bumps at 5mph.

    I've never had aftermarket sway bars prior to this, so I was wondering if this is normal. Or is this something I need to get checked. Anybody had any similar experience w/ aftermarket sway bars?

    Thanks!

    James B.
  • locke2clocke2c Member Posts: 5,038
    apply some grease to the swaybar bushings. you will have to unbolt them to do this, which since you said you had it installed... sounds like something that you might want to have someone take care of for you again.

    most swaybars come with new bushings and grease of some variety. I would recommend lithium grease.

    ~Colin
  • barriostkdbarriostkd Member Posts: 71
    Thanks for the input, Colin. I set an appointment this Friday w/ the shop that installed them. But I'm wondering how come I never encountered this problem w/ the stock sway bar? I never bothered applying any kind of grease or lubricant on the stock bushings, but never experienced having this extra noise.

    James B.
  • locke2clocke2c Member Posts: 5,038
    the bushing material is much more resilient than stock. it's probably urethane or some kind of plastic, whereas the stock ones were probably rubber.

    either that, or the stock ones were well coated in grease and the aftermarket ones not quite so well coated.

    ~c
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Most aftermarket ones are Polyurithane and require lithium grease. It usually comes off in about a year and needs to be re-applied. Rubber ones won't give you as much noise but won't perform as well either. :)

    -mike
  • bluesubiebluesubie Member Posts: 3,497
    You didn't like the answers (same) you got in the WRX forum? :D

    -Dennis
  • locke2clocke2c Member Posts: 5,038
    heh, I saw one crosspost.. were there others??

    but yes, please only post in one place :)

    ~Colin
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Make it a routine part of your tire rotation. Every 7500 miles, spray on a tad of lithium grease on both sides. It's easy because they are exposed when the rims are off.

    -juice
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