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Subaru Crew - Modifications II

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Comments

  • rangnerrangner Member Posts: 336
    Nah I wouldn't worry about taking it off. I would be suprised if they said anything about it. By the way, how did you attach the screen to guard the radiator? Eric
  • subi4obssubi4obs Member Posts: 32
    Yep, they might not notice it much. Won't be in the way at all either.
    I just used plastic ties going through the most convenient holes found around there. The two parts practically fit in there okay without them but those hold it tight. I had to bend the top corners of the upper piece of screen mesh so it would squeeze into the space available, but other than that it was all a matter of sliding them between the bumper and radiator while the original grille was unclipped. Oh, with two holes made in the screen for those snap-together points to go through it. That's all I remember about it anyhow.
    Only possibilty of damage comes from that squeeze into the upper space. The lower part went in from below very easily.
    Thanks for the confidence, Eric, I won't say a word about it when I take the car in for its 30K mile checkup.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Ok, looks like I need new front brake pads. I heard some squeel and they look like they've reached the squeelers.

    So...OE or aftermarket (Hawk)?

    Also, any links to a good set of instructions? I've done brakes on the Miata so it should not be too hard, but there are more pistons on this set.

    -juice
  • hondafriekhondafriek Member Posts: 2,984
    juice, I have had dismal experience with Hawk pads, the metallic particles transfered onto the back of my rotors, ruined a perfectly good set of rotors.

    I am not the only one, a couple of friends had a similar experience. Changing pads is relatively simple just use a big C clamp to compress the pistons, don't forget to clean and grease the sliders on the calipers.Oh! and if the master cylinder is full to the top remove a little fluid before you compress the pistons,otherwise it will overflow and you don't want brake fluid on painted surfaces.

    Brake fluid is an excellent paint remover.

    Cheers Pat.
  • jfljfl Member Posts: 1,396
    juice,

    where else but scoobymods for instructions! you should know that :P

    as well as the oe pads worked for you, i'd stick with them.

    jim
  • lucien2lucien2 Member Posts: 2,984
    The OE pads are all good, Juice. I also have to chime in here and waive you off of Hawk pads. The OE pads are a pretty performance oriented pad as OE things go. As stated earlier, bring your C clamp and a shim to push both pistons at once. Or check S&^%$mods. :)
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    OK, glad I asked. Picked up a set of OE replacements last night.

    I also got one of those hand pump brake bleeder kits, as suggested on that same site.

    Question, though, I saw instructions to bleed the brakes, but not to change pads. Am I blind, or do such instructions not exist?

    For the caliper, do I remove the top bolt or the bottom bolt, to tilt it away?

    -juice
  • lucien2lucien2 Member Posts: 2,984
    It's in the Legacy section, Juice.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Though they're a bit different on the Forester, they still served as a guide.

    Trouble I had was it was *filthy*. 9 years of brake dust and surface rust. Yuck.

    The bolts on the Forester are 17mm, rather than 14 as on the instructions. They were stiff but my torque wrench is long and gave me enough leverage to get them out.

    Had to tap the calipers out with a rubber hammer. The Miata was so much easier. Just one piston to push back in, plus you can remove just one bolt and tilt the caliper out of the way and still get it done.

    Another hard part was pushing the pistons back in and getting the new pads in straight. One piston was stubborn towards the end, didn't want to go all the way in. I finally got them all the way in and struggled them back over the rotors, which had some rust at the edges (sanded that off some).

    The 2nd side (passenger side) was much easier for some reason, maybe because I had experience with the other side.

    Still didn't bleed them, but ran out of daylight so I'm doing that tomorrow.

    -juice
  • amsbearamsbear Member Posts: 147
    Success!!!

    I decided that replacing it myself was the practical thing to do. The dealer wanted approx. $270 for the starter plus an hour of labor which would push this up to nearly $400. The part at the local auto parts store cost me $85 plus a $30 core charge (refundable upon return of old part).

    This replacement was technically easy but physically a bit tough since access to the bolts and starter itself is lousy. There are only two mounting bolts plus the power connectors. With the car up on ramps, I was able to remove the nut from the lower mounting bolt with a socket wrench plus extensions. Space is limited there allowing only 1/4 turns of the wrench, but once it loosened I was able to take it the rest of the way off by hand.

    Now the top bolt was a different story! Getting to that bugger meant getting the wrench in place, snaking past coolant lines, avoiding fuel filter, throttle body, and other plumbing. This allowed for such little movement of the wrench and a poor angle for any leverage on a bolt that has been solidly in place for 8 years. Once I got it going and started backing the bolt out, I couldn't believe it. That bolt must be over 6 inches long, and it took forever to remove. The ratchet would travel for just one click before I ran out of room.... talk about a slow process. The bolt loosened enough eventually for some hand removal, but my knuckles are scraped and forearms bruised.

    So, removal took me 1.5 hours with some breaks and head scrathing.

    Install of the new one was a breeze by comparison, since I learned a bit during the dismantle phase and the engine was cooler. That took 1 hour including cleanup.

    End result, my car cranks strongly and starts nicely. Plus a little boost in pride that I can perform some maintenance that may fall a bit outside the usual DIY category.

    Thanks to Wes for your help and advice.

    Alan 98 OBW Ltd
  • subi4obssubi4obs Member Posts: 32
    Did it feel like over $100 of work? :D
    I think I'd probably had done like you did, bought the starter myself (dang! $270 for a starter!!), but then taken it to someone who'd be able to do it for $100 to $150, still saving lotsa $$$.
    Last time I changed out a starter was on a 1969 Toyota, no trouble at all.
    I'm unwilling to try a sparkplug change on my Impreza OBS! ;) Although I was still doing that kinda stuff on my GMC truck and other vehicles before.
  • jfljfl Member Posts: 1,396
    For me, the hardest part of changing spark plugs is removing the spark plug boot (but only the first time)! I always use dielectric grease to make future changes easier.

    Jim
  • hondafriekhondafriek Member Posts: 2,984
    juice, I don't know why you would want to bleed the brakes, unless changing fluid or you have air in the system bleeding the brakes is not necessary. I did not see you saying you had serviced the caliper sliders, if you didn't you should have, they eventually seize up and should be cleaned and greased at every brake service.

    Cheers Pat.
  • rangnerrangner Member Posts: 336
    What about greasing the piston boot? I've never done it when servicing the brakes but the service manual says to push out the caliper piston with compressed air through the caliper body and lube the boot with the same grease that you use for the sliders. Nigilube or something IIRC.

    Eric
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    The fluid was a bit dark in color, not brown but not light yellow either. It was not original - they replaced my brake master cylinder in a recall in 2000, but that means the fluid was 6 years old already.

    I'm not sure I understand your terminology, but I did use high-temp brake grease on the two sliders that line up the two halves that make up the caliper, is that what you meant? I had to take the little rubber boot off one side, took it apart, and then greased them before putting them back together.

    Sound about right?

    -juice
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    01 Outback this time, fronts were done no problem.

    Rears were tough. The suspension bits in the rear get in the way and I did not have the right extensions to get the lower bolt off the caliper to get it out.

    Tool suggestions? Do I just need a long ratchet extension? How long?

    Or is access easier from the side, with a closed-ended wrench that has a slight angle to it?

    Another question - the end links - to remove those do you need tools on both sides? I turn one side and it does not loosen or tighthen, the bolt just turns with the nut.

    I can't express how many things are easier on the Forester vs. the Legacy. Even the stereo. OK, the spark plugs are easier on the Legacy, but that's it.

    -juice
  • hondafriekhondafriek Member Posts: 2,984
    That would only apply when doing a caliper rebuild, in a normal brake service it would only be necessary to grease the sliders.

    Cheers Pat.
  • hondafriekhondafriek Member Posts: 2,984
    You need a long extension to remove the rear calipers on the legacy, they are not the easiest to service.
    As for greasing the sliders you appear to have gotten it right juice, however your brake fluid is past due to be replaced. Every 2 years or 24K is the recommened interval I believe.

    Cheers Pat.
  • crazybajacrazybaja Member Posts: 1
    Hi EVERYBODY!!!!
    Does anybody has clue how to lift up cople inches Subaru Baja?????
    Please help.....
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    My dad services his car at the dealer, Fitzgerald. Not sure if they've bled the brakes before or not.

    Time to do the wife's Legacy, though. :)

    -juice
  • bat1161bat1161 Member Posts: 1,784
    I'm curious about peoples take on the Rear reading lamps that are available for the 06 OBWagon as an add-on. I saw that Subaru is now offering them as an accessory for the Wagon that has the moonroof. My question is: Has anyone doen this yet? If so, how does it look?

    I don't normally have back seat passengers, but I have had one or two complaints of not neing able to see at night.

    BTW, my dealer quoted me $107 for the pair installed.

    Thanks,
    Mark
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Do you have Subaru Bucks? That's what I'd use for something like that. It's electrical, let them mess with it, if any problems creep up you're covered.

    -juice
  • bat1161bat1161 Member Posts: 1,784
    Actually I have a few Subaru bucks that will be expiring next year. That's what made me think of it! I was even toying with the thought of adding the subwoofer. Only thing with that is I was quoted $344 installed. I thought that may be a little high and debated getting it through my dealer.

    Mark
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Get the parts and install them yourself. I bet it's half as much or less.

    Get extra oil filters with the remaining Subaru Bucks, that's what I did with my last on-line order of accessories.

    -juice
  • goneskiiangoneskiian Member Posts: 381
    Howdy all!
    Been too long since checking in here. Hope everyone's doing well.

    I've done too very simple mods to my '05 GT Wagon recently. The first was the JDM/EDM armrest extension/extra storage cubby. The instructions where in Japanese (where were you Ken?! ;)) but had great pictures so it was an easy 20 minutes of operating a screwdriver.

    The second was a little more involved. I've been wanting to check out the STi STS so I bought one online locally using subie bucks. Then I got a couple install quotes. $350 at the dealership!!??!! I guess that should be STealership. Also $150 at a local shop. OUCH!

    Anyway, I research further on the LGT.com site and found that the difference between the stock shifter and the STi STS is only the main shifting rod (sorry if the terminology is incorrect), basically the rod you screw the shift nob on to and move back and forth when shifting. Meaning the extra couple rods of metal attached to the STi STS are the same as what's there already. So I followed the fantastic instructions someone posted in a "Walk through" on the lgt.com site for the Kartboy shifter and it took me about 45 minutes.

    Definitely feels shorter and crisper. Also a little bit "notchier". Not sure it's that great just yet but am getting used to it.

    Next I'd like to add an aux input for my iPod and the Spec. B steering wheel controls. Both are a little out of my comfort zone though as they involve electricity and wires. Not something I'm familiar with (none of that stuff on my bicycles!!! ;)).

    Cheers!
    -Ian
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Put some pics up on CarSpace. :shades:

    -juice
  • lucien2lucien2 Member Posts: 2,984
    So here's a little conundrum for you all.

    The OBS currently sports pretty dinky single-pot discs up front. Most owners upgrade to WRX front brakes for a significant improvement, which is a cheap mod (~$100 on nabisco or ebay). BUT...15" rims don't clear. I'm running 16" SSR Comps and summer tires, plus I have the stock steelies with crap A/S no-names AND the nice looking 15" Alloys from the '99 Outback lying around. So, given the fact that we have very little money these days, should I:

    a)leave the brakes alone and run the crappy off-brand A/S

    b)get good A/S tires mounted on the alloys and call it a day

    c)run the crappy A/S this winter, upgrade the brakes in the Spring, and hope I have a little dough to pick up a set of WRX takeoffs and RE92's next winter

    d) ???

    have at it.
  • locke2clocke2c Member Posts: 5,038
    a) I wouldn't bother with your brakes unless you are doing track days or something similar that works your brakes a TON. and the stock calipers are dual piston btw, assuming they are the same as a '99 RS.

    ~Colin
  • lucien2lucien2 Member Posts: 2,984
    sadly, they are not the same as the RS. Single pots on the L and OBS until 1999, I think.

    but you raise a good point....an intermediate upgrade to 2 pots and slightly bigger rotors, like off a Legacy or RS.
  • hondafriekhondafriek Member Posts: 2,984
    That is basically all you woul;d need Loosh, and it is a fairly cheap mod. The master cylinder brace that stops the firewall flex made a great differnce on The GT took away the mushy brake pedal.

    Cheers Pat.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    I would upgrade the tires.

    Unless you're getting brake fade now, the stock brakes have enough power to lock up the wheels, and anything more is overkill (unless you're gonna track it).

    You should see the puny brakes on my Miata. They upsized in '94, mine's a '93. They fit easily in the 14" rims. Yet they can still lock up the tires no problem. No ABS.

    -juice
  • lucien2lucien2 Member Posts: 2,984
    kinda how I feel too, although with drums in the back... :surprise: They don't feel all that competent. Meh. Probably a better idea from a safety standpoint to get good A/S tires for the winter instead of putting my trust in these, these, uh...Hercules 4000s :confuse:
  • hypovhypov Member Posts: 3,068
    Go with upgrading the tires.
    The upgrade brakes would be of no use to you if the crappy tires won't hold.

    -Dave
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Best all season tires for the money on the market! Love em!

    -mike
  • lucien2lucien2 Member Posts: 2,984
    .....scored a set of WRX front brakes (calipers, rotors, pads) with 15k miles on them for $150 this week. Who knows when I'll get a chance to install them. I know from experience that this is the sort of thing that could take 2 hours, or two days, depending on how many hitches there are. At any rate, my winter rims won't clear them so it will be spring time before I attempt it.

    But it is well regarded as a big, big upgrade on these cars. From teensy weensy rotors and single pot calipers to 2 pots and 10.5" rotors. More than makes up for the drums in back.
  • bertus24bertus24 Member Posts: 8
    I need to replace my dump valve in my scoob, this is something myself can do, but where the hell is it located.... :sick:
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    dump valve? Are you speaking of the blow-off valve? Haven't heard it called a dump valve. Or wastegate?

    -mike
  • bertus24bertus24 Member Posts: 8
    Yes, I am talking about the BOV..... Sorry... :D
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    BOV is bolted right to the IC at least on the 02-06 WRXs. Question I have is why do you want to change it? It does de-power your car if you do that.

    -mike
  • bertus24bertus24 Member Posts: 8
    I have the 2001 WRX, i have some lag on the turbo, and when i say that, when I pull off and the turbo kicks in, and go to second gear, the BOV doesnt do what it use to do, it did always dump the extra air out and you could hear how it dumps, you cant anymore, one of our dealer ships had a look and he siad I need to replace it otherwise I might end up replacing my turbo. So i believe him, he is the Subaru dealership.. Do you have s0me pointers you can give me? :D
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Where are you located? I'm assuming outside the US as there were no 2001 WRXs sold in the US. It could very well be your problem, so replace it with a stock one and see if it fixes it. It should be bolted to the Intercooler, 2 bolts on the firewall side.

    -mike
  • bertus24bertus24 Member Posts: 8
    Yes I am, I am in South Africa.... I will have a look and see if i cant locate it, did Subaru manufactured BOV's on all scoobys?
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Ah ha. Cool. Yeah all the ones with intercoolers have a BOV. Your WRX should have one.

    -mike
  • hondafriekhondafriek Member Posts: 2,984
    Well I finally got fed up with the semi annual rebuild of the Willwood calipers, could never get the suckers to stop leaking. They ruined the clear coat on both front rims,

    Anyway today I installed Subaru 4 pots and of course the 16" winter rims didn't clear the 4 pots so I had to buy rims as well. Pictures are in my carspace and I cannot figure out how to post them on here.

    Cheers Pat.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Nice! Yeah the FHI 4-pots need 16x6.5 IIRC which are RS Pre-02 rims. :)

    I love my FHI 4-pots, they are a great upgrade. That's what we use on the race car.

    -mike
  • hondafriekhondafriek Member Posts: 2,984
    Actually Mike, they need to be at least 16"x7" with a 48 offset.

    Cheers Pat.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Is that the size of the RS Rims? I guess the WRX ones are 16x6.5 and the RS were 16x7. We run RS rims (5 spoke and 6 spoke) exclusively on the race car with the 4-pot FHIs.

    -mike
  • aaykayaaykay Member Posts: 539
    Yes, the RS pre-02 are 16x7. Which was why they were in big demand for 02-05 WRXs, when people wanted to put the 4-pots on, while retaining 16s. The 02-05 WRX 16s came in 16x6.5, which practically made them worthless other than for the stock setup.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Yeah I was off by .5 :) I have a ton of 5-spoke RS wheels at the shop piled up. I think they are classy looking on non-RSes! :)

    -mike
  • hondafriekhondafriek Member Posts: 2,984
    Wish I had known you had them I wanted a set but couldn't find any around here.

    Cheers Pat.
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