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Waxes and Polishes, Part III
If you've missed part II, please click here.
Let the sharing of advice & experience continue!
carlady/roving host
Let the sharing of advice & experience continue!
carlady/roving host
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Love it! Your cat actually attacked the screen! I'll have to try it too. My car is the Honda Accord '98 EX V6 Coupe in Emerald Green. 'Have a friend who has a GTP, and I've posted in related topics. The GTP is a great car and its performance ability is underrated by most magazines. 'Don't know why. I love my Coupe and my wife loves the size, but I'd never 'dis the GTPs. If you want better performance, go GTP.
Gus & mzm,
I know you have to create a third 'topic' for this subject due to large number of postings. But there should be a way to list all topics in descending order. After all, the most active topics are what generate interest in Edmunds Town Hall, and should be the easiest to get to. It is a real pain to have to drill down to the end of a forum list.
I THINK there is a way to control the order of the topics on the topic page by clicking at the top of the column???? Don't you just placemark the topics and go to them from there? It's a lot easier then going to all the topics until you find the ones you want. There's a "help" section at the bottom of this list, but I don't know if it was ever updated from the "old" Edmunds. It might explain how to rearrange the topic list.
fastdriver
I want rain to bead.
I do not want a mark at the end of the wiper travel (point of wiper direction reversal).
I want the wipers to run smoothly and quietly.
I would like the treatment to last.
My personal experiences are:
Rain-X: Great until the second rain at which point the wipers began to chatter terribly. It's fun to drive and watch the rain blow off the windshield. "Almost" don't need the wipers.
Zaino (Z2/Z5 polish): Leaves a haze behind the wiper blades during wiper operation. This is tolerable until I have to deal with oncoming headlights. Accumulates a streak at the wiper reversal point. Beads nicely outside of the wiper travel area.
Zaino Z-12 glass polish: This really cleaned the glass. The improved clarity was noticeable. Unfortunately, the rain flattened out and did not bead at all. This wasn't all bad but I much prefer to watch "beaded" raindrops get pushed off the windshield. I doesn't look as nice while parked in the rain either.
Has anybody found a better treatment without the downside of those I have tried?
Have you tried the Z-6??
fastdriver
I graciously accepted license plate frames. It's too bad NY is a '2 plate state'. They used machine screws and burrowed them right into my front bumper :{ For more, turn to Sportscars- topic 57...
Fastdriver,
Thanks. I try the bookmarks.
tthomas2,
fastdriver has a good suggestion: Z6. I tried a variation with good results. First, I applied Z12 Glass Polish. And rubbed like crazy as it did leave a filmmy residue. So I then used Windex to remove the Z12 residue. Just be a little careful as Windex will remove Zaino Z2 from the car. Just spray it on a paper towel or old newspaper, and then use the wet towel directly against the outside windshield glass. When you're done, you should have a squeeky clean windshield. I also clean my wiper blades as the thin rubber material builds up dirt quickly. And finally, apply Zaino Z-6 to the windshield and wipe off. Just as fastdriver suggested. It will fill in those microscopic pits in the glass, allow water to bead, and give you an extra clean view.
ejy,
Yeah, I too felt funny about having the dealer's logo on my license frames. I took the front frame off, removed the frame's front cover (with the dealer name) and put it back with four solid bolts rather than the two it came with. The whole thing had been loose. Just remember to use brass bolts and regular sheet metal steel will rust out quickly.
I found that if I apply the Z-12 with a DAMP towel, it works better, goes on easier and is easier to rub on the glass. Then I use the Z-6.
Try it, you'll like it!
fastdriver
Thanks for the suggestions, I'll give it a try. it hadn't occurred to me to use the Z6 on "bare" (but very clean) glass.
Terry
AND........don't forget that you can use it on your computer screen and TV screens! Great job! Try it.
fastdriver
Do you do Windows too?
The default is to order the topics by number. You can override this by clicking on "Last Post" on the main conference page. Your list will then show you the topics in the order of newest posting within a topic.
You can also sort by Topic Title, New, or Number of Posts. I hope this helps.
carlady/roving host
LOL..... No, I have someone come and do that! However, I bet it would do a great job if you used the Z-12 first. WHY wouldn't it work especially on the side of the house that always seems to get hit with rain the hardest.
fastdriver
I came within a hair of buying the Accord EX V6 except I was seduced by the power of the GTP. Different cars...both very good at what they do...both offer a lot of car for the $.
I find that washing with Z1 and applying Z6 to the windshiled does the trick. Is there that much of a difference with Z12?
I'll give the reverse order option a try. Thanks again for stopping by ('roving') and your good advice.
fastdriver,
One of the programmers here has a door sign which reads: "I do Windows". 'Think I'll give him a spare bottle of Z-6.
graphicguy,
The GTP certainly has power. I took it from a standing start up a big hill with curves. Very impressive! The Z12 polish will remove those very hard to get films of dirt and plastic residue. The kind that normally require much rubbing with Windex. It's very good for interior glass and windows which accumulate that damn plastic 'curing' residue. Its less effective on the outside glass, but you can really see the difference. Did you really mean Z1 before Z6 or was it the car washing concentrate?
My only fear with Z12 is I've heard mixed reviews on the ability to get it on and off without a lot of work (OK, I'm lazy). I still use glass cleaner or water and vinegar with newspaper. This works well initially, but as you pointed out, as the inside plastics "cure", the streaks come back. I'm still looking for the "miracle" solution to keep the windows from showing streaks within a few days of cleaning them. Maybe I'll just have to settle for the fact that there just isn't a cure for this problem.
I read all the claims of different window cleaning products, none has performned to my satisfaction, yet.
Pat
Community Leader/Maintenance & Repair Conference
Dealer badge was on the when I arrived. It was not the car I ordered (the one I ordered did not come in for 3 more weeks). Removed badge successfully with absolutely no damage. It looks like it was never there.
I Zainoed my 2000 Odyssey, and the water indeed beads, but differently from any other wax or polish I've used. The stuff actualy appears, to repel water. It sheets off so fast, that the car remains virtually dry! It really only collects in the flat spots (roof, back bumper).
I used to use the Eagle car wax (Wet Look) and liked it. That is, before I discovered Zaino.
Anyone here use the Eagle 20/20 on their windows?
Try http://www.zainobros.com again. I just perused the site and all appears well. They must have just put up a new web site because it is completely different. Much nicer. I suspect you were trying to visit the web site as they were bringing the new pages online.
The new ZAINO site is terrific! It's about time Sal put up some pics of what the cars look like after using Zaino. That alone should help to convince the "doubting Thomas's" out there!
I just got finished doing my cousin's BMW 2-seater BLACK convertible! It's AWESOME looking now!! I thought that the ZAINO looked terrific on my Candy Apple Red 300M, but on black it's ten times better!
IF there is any room left in my free Geocities account, I post some pics of it!
fastdriver
Careful with those euphemisms. I have no doubt it's the best polish *I've* ever used;-)
TT
LOL.... I was going to put a ;-)) after that, but thought I'd wait to see what you would say!! LOL...
fastdriver
And I like the new 'application' section too.
- Use Windex and rub with some old (crumbled up) newspaper, and then wash with Windex again.
- Use a 'Vinegar based product on the windshield.
- Use (last resort only) Dawn dishwashing liquid. This will help get rid of older waxes and plastic vapor based films.
- Also order Z6 (Gloss Enhancer). Does wonders for windows.
Might be worth trying if you have clay available.
Terry
Best bet would be to take it back to the dealer and tell them about the mark and see what they say. In all probability, they will try to say that you put it on the car. Take it to an independent body shop and ask them if it is misapplied clear coat (preferably in writing) and show that to the dealer.
Z5 won't replace what's not there (like clearcoat). If it truly is a scuff mark, you may have to buff it out with a polishing compound (3M polishing pad may work).
Also, you may try asking advice from Sal Zaino via their website (www.zainobros.com). He's the real expert in these matters. Let us all know how it turns out.
yesterday;very easy, using lots of lub.I got very little if anything off the cat,but was glad I did for felt more secure the car was clean and really for the rest of the Zaino.Today applied the Z1 and Z5.It's almost dry now ,four hours later and will wait till tomorrow to wipe down.Was afraid of applying too much,but think was OK(After all the post in here about that was paranoid HA!).I did notice after applying the Z1 was hard to tell car was polished,but Sal's directions said very thin applications.However, after Z5 application more noticeable.Now the car has a slight haze to it.
First, never use those "dry" car wash products on your car unless it is perfectly clean to begin with. Some claim to "encapsulate" dirt and prevent scratches, but most dirt contains silicates or put another way...sand or glass! These particles have sharp edges, and no amount of product can keep them from cutting your paint if you rub it with a cloth using a dry wash. Even the most careful regular wash will leave some tiny scratches in the paint as it's impossible to completely remove the dirt/sand with any sort of cloth or even pressure sprays and not have it come back into contact with the surface, no matter how good you are or what product you use. If you keep a good coat of wax, then only the wax will get the damage. Use lots of clean sudsy water, a clean soft wash mitt and rinse it often in clean water.
As for how to wash in the winter, it's more important to get the crud (especially salt) off the car than worry about a few minor scratches in the wax or even the paint. If you can't wash it like normal, or borrow a heated space, then take it to a good and trusted detail shop once in a while.
Also, while high pressure car washes and full service car washes will always do some damage to paint, they are better alternatives than letting salt and accumulated dirt stay on your car for weeks on end. Again, if you have put on a good coat of your favorite wax and it's doing it's job, it will take the hit instead of your paint for the most part.
Try to put a new coat of wax on your finish when the weather breaks if you have had to clean your car several times. Nothing I know of will take that kind of winter punishment with need of some renewal or a fresh coat.
Of course if doing this when the temp is below freezing, be careful to lube things like locks first, and roll down all the windows just a crack before driving away, and if you have power windows, move them around for a while to keep them from freezing in place. wipe down door/trunk seals also before they freeze, and use a good rubber care product on them.
Don M.
Welecome to the club. Wait 'till you see the results of your second coat of Z2. I also felt claying was a pain, but the results are worth it. Now and for the future of the finish.
jab,
I've got the same problem, and I'm not sure there is a good simple answer. I've been dusting the car and using Z6 (Gloss Enhancer). The preliminary dusting just gets rid of the loose dust. And the Z6 seems to easily get rid of all the rest of the normal junk (dead bugs up front, mud and road stuff all over). I've also tried just rinsing the car down with a quick spray of water. Even though is was about 20 above zero at the time, most of the dust and junk just washed away from the Zaino surface. And then (very quickly), I ran the car down the road to eliminate as much water as I could. Not a great solution, but it helped a lot.
The roads in the North East will be full of road salts, sand, and other nasty stuff all winter. I commonly travel between NYC and Otis, MA. So, I expect to get a lot of dirt on the car. And if you have any good ideas, I'd really appreciate hearing about them. What, for example, is the 'one bucket' method?
a match out of a match book. Use the opposite end of the head. Dab this in touch-up paint.(do not thin out touch-up paint) Very carefully dab a
very, very minute amount in the chip. Do not get any paint anywhere other then the chip depression. The trick here is not to try to fix the chip in one application. Do this every day until the paint in the chip is even with the rest of the paint surface. If you do this correctly,
you will hardly notice that chip repair. You can compound the repair by hand very gently to even out the chip repair. Or better yet, just use a few coats of Z-5 to polish over it. Remember have patience. Don't try to touch-up the chip all at once. It's a gradual building up of the paint, that's the trick."
Another approach is described at the following URL:
http://www.carcareonline.com/paint_chips.html
Note: You should use isopropyl alcohol to remove anyZaino polish if that is what you use to protect your car paint.
A third alternative is to use the Langka Chip Repair kit which I've read that some people have tried and liked. Read about it at http://www.langka.com/
Good luck with whatever you try. Please let us know what worked or didn't work for you.
While buying the primer and clear coat at Pep Boys (touch up color from Toyota) I saw they also had little bottles of "Excess Touch-up Paint Remover". After reading the links, I believe that this is similar to the Langka solution that slowly dissolves paint that is not completely cured.
I'll let you know what happens after I build up the paint and clearcoat blob (slowly) and then smooth it down with the remover. I wonder if it would be even better to use the solution with the Meguiar's Finess block? My car is otherwise flawless - I hope it works!
Those are very good suggestions. And I'll try them. I also read the method documented in the links on your post. Very complex, but I get the idea. And both sets of instructions seem to be better than what I did in the past. I used to 'sand' out the chip with a very fine file, apply a blob of paint with a tooth-pick, and hope the paint dried flat. It never did.
IMHO, polymers last longer and protect better. And the shine! I'm sure Meguiars also has a good shine, but I'm much happier with my Zaino. I think the reason that wax products still and probably will continue to dominate the market is ease of manufacturing, cost, and the economics of mass marketing. Some of the really big chemical companies produce these waxes or the base wax which goes into the final products. Their scale of operations allows for profits while keeping unit prices low. Polymers cost much more to manufacture, and the best polymer based products are made by much smaller firms. There cost is much higher, and the sum total of all their products cannot even come close to satisfying demand for such products.
On how they protect: my understanding is that polymer products such as Zaino are actually much 'softer' than the typical high quality wax. Polymers have rather long molecular structures which allow them to expand and contract 'with' the paint/clearcoat surface of your car. This happens all the time due to engine heat and the sun's rays. Wax products are much 'harder' and quickly become brittle. As wax products expand and contract, they break down at the molecular level and the wax surface quickly develops very small cracks. The oils embedded in the wax (ie: hydrocarbon based oils) are then exposed to the air, oxydize, and disapate into the air. The resulting cracks allow the elements to get to the paint or clearcoat.
The much more flexible polymer products last longer. And products such as Zaino also contain UV filters which slow down the aging process in the car's paint. And when a hole develops due to road particals, stones, etc., the hole doesn't spread as the polymer is actually bonded to the clearcoat.
I don't know if water beading is the true measure of these types of products. But if it is, then polymer based products such as Zaino as far superior to most of the waxes.
Not only did they not mind that I had used a polymer (Zaino), they gave it a truly glowing review. At first, they asked me who was my professional detailer. As I explained Zaino to them, their excitement became real enough to touch. They had no problems removing the Zaino layer from the concerned area, and where easily able to complete their tasks without damaging the Z2 layer on other areas of the car. The final result was so well done that I can't see the repair job. It is perfectly matched to the rest of the car. Thus, only body shops without experience will complain.