Honda Civic: Problems & Solutions

ronin_88 · February 2002

Hey, your post (no. 1090) was excellent. You brought up some very good points about car ownership in general.

I've had my '01 EX for slightly over 9 months now and it's been fantastic for me... not a single problem, even in our brutal winters up here. I absolutely love this car, the way it looks, and the mileage it gets. The handling, clutch and shifter are a dream on this car, in the class that it's in.

Something I wanted to add to your points:

One thing most people should realize when they think that there seems to be a lot of complaints about the build quality of the 01-02 Civics: it was the 3rd best-selling passenger car in the US for 2001 (323,000 units sold), behind only the Accord (1st) and the Camry. Now, when you have that many units sold, there are bound to be relatively more complaints that come up. If you sell very few units, of course you are going to hear less about problems from that car... that's just common sense.

phelpsg · February 2002

The car runs great and the cruise control works fine so that's why I'm so unsure about the VSS being the problem. Sometimes when the car is moving the needle drops to zero them comes back. Other times while sitting still idling the needle jumps all around. Thanks for the reply and let me know if you can think of anything else. This may be a problem for the dealer to diagnose

spokane · February 2002

I agree that good cruise control and engine performance would seem to vindicate the VSS. However, movement of the speedometer needle when the car is stopped indicates it is getting a signal from something. This is a stretch, but doesn't it seem that an intermittent short to a hot wire somewhere in the wiring harness could be causing this? Maybe a little manipulation of the wiring harness would have some effect. The dealer's scan tool has a fair chance of locating this problem but that isn't a certainty since you apparently had no alert from the engine malfunction lamp.

spokane · February 2002

I agree that's it is desirable to be able to select operation of the compressor but the lack of this flexibility is not as much of a problem as we might first believe. The thermostat in the A/C evaporator is calibrated so that the compressor disengages any time the incoming air temperature is less than +37F (+3C). The indicator lamp will be lit in the defrost mode but the compressor is not functioning below this setpoint. (This can be verified by turning on the A/C in cold weather and watching the compressor clutch to see that it does not engage.) In the defrost mode at temperatures above +37F, the compressor will cycle on and off to provide dehumidification and improve defrosting as you have indicated. At lower temperatures, the air's absolute humidity is always sufficiently low that this pre-cooling would not enhance the defrost performance. Further, it is not possible for the A/C system to provide any dehumidification below 32F since any humidity would freeze on the evaporator coils.

fxashun · February 2002

That the A/C uses less energy that the drag of the windows open at highway speeds. In fact most manufacturers recommend A/C over windows at speed.

Most cars with Auto Climate Control have the A/C on as their default setting so it's not "wasting" A/C to just leave it on all the time.

ronin_88 · February 2002

fashun: 7th gen Civics have Auto Climate Control? This is news to me. Must be an important feature they forgot to mention in the Owner's Manual. As for leaving my windows open at highway speeds, thanks for your recommendation to not have them open and use the AC. But I never had any intention of opening my windows at 70mph when the outside ambient temperature is -5 fahrenheit.

My main beef with this auto AC/defrost is during the winter. I just don't find this to be such a great "feature" when all I want is heat from the windshield vents... that's all there is to it.

spokane: Thanks for your explanation, but the fact is, when my AC goes on, I can hear and feel something kicking in, and slightly more vibration from the engine bay, as well as less power from the gas pedal, even in cold weather.

Straight from our manuals: "AC puts extra load on your engine which makes it use more fuel. Turn off the AC to cut down on air conditioning use." Yes, this info is more for summer driving, but again, I just like the option of controlling the AC when I just want warm air from the windshield vents.

ticktock4321 · February 2002

I'm pretty sure he was pointing out the fact that auto climate control systems utilize A/C to regulate temp. When I had an Accord with this feature I quickly learned about turning off the A/C. I'm sure everyone knows it is a good idea to run the compressor occasionally during colder weather.

I'll have to keep those directions handy (for Civic and CR-V) as I too like the independent control of the A/C. This change is just another way (IMO) foreign cars are becoming more "americanized"

ronin_88 · February 2002

Ok, I may have misunderstood him and what he was trying to point out with Auto Climate Control. My apologies...

isellhondas · February 2002

Well...to each his own I guess. You solved your "problem" and now you are happy and that's what matters!

yettibutt · February 2002

Back to my clutch issue, It seems to shudder only starting off in first gear and this is worst when the car is cold or it is very cold outside. Im thinking motor/tranny mount, but what would temp have to do with it? When it is warm it is barely noticeable if at all.

Thanks

auburn63 · February 2002

spokane
Thanks for the kind correction. I have been at L1 emission training all week and I am burnt...Still my number one guess would be the speedometer itself as we see more of them than sensors but never can rule out the sensor without checking it first..thanks again

phelpsg
So very sorry for the confussion. Its been a long week and still isnt over yet..Good luck

auburn63 · February 2002

It could just be moisture on the clutch parts causing your problem if it is mostly cold when it happens. However if the flywheel has hot spots and or runout it will cause this also. Just as when you hit the brakes and get a shimmy as the rotors touch the pads the same goes for the clutch disc as it touches the fly wheel surface. As it touches it will shutter and shake until it is engaged and turns as one. Good luck

boravr6 · February 2002

Bought a bargain new 2001 Civic DX. Now I want to put a CD player in. Our other car has the Monsoon Stereo, and we would like to have a similar level of sound experience in the Civic. Any recommendations?

The stock CD play from Honda is $350 including installation, so that is my budget.
Will just putting in a good CD player help, or sould I change the entire system?

Again, looking for some recommendations.

yleecoyote · February 2002

Well, if you didn't open a can of worms, some of the replies probably will! This is very subjective stuff also influenced by whether you are trying to please yourself or peers.
Assuming that you are trying to please yourself and are realistic about your stated budget, try Crutchfield's www.crutchfield.com.
Of course this would be do it yourself but they provide excellent support in this area as well. I've used them going all the way back to a 1979 Fiat X\19 and haven't been disappointed yet.
Browsed the Y2K1 Civic site and found a pictorial posting on removing the center console all the way up to the dash where the Radio is located. Probably a little daunting without some help like this. Crutchfield's usually supplies vehicle specific installation instructions as well, probably not pictorial though.
If I were doing it from scratch with my experience I would go this route other than Honda. On the other hand my EX coupe came with the CD player, meets my needs and I have no plans to change it out. If you're willing to do the work yourself, you can either save money over the quoted Honda price with an equivalent unit or upgrade to something with more features for the same money.

yettibutt · February 2002

Thanks for the info. What is "runout" on my clutch? I am thinking the moisture thing is correct, any idea on how to stop it? Could it be oil from the rear seal too?? I guess the thing is it only does it when cold out or really humid so the oil thing is probably wrong AND it doesn't seem to be losing any more oil than normal.

ronin_88 · February 2002

The CD player and 6-speaker system that came with my EX is a pretty decent stock audio system I find. But I believe the DX only comes with 4 speakers. If you are thinking about just replacing the head unit, it will be an improvement, but I don't think it will come close to that Monsoon system in your other car... at least not for $350 with installation. To come close, you may have to spend a bit more for better speakers too.

www.7thgencivic.com has a bunch of great DIY's if your interested in installing the headunit yourself:

http://www.7thgencivic.com/diy/radio.cfm

fxashun · February 2002

Is a great site for install guides and pictures but the prices can be beat on many other online sites. Or look in the back classifieds of Auto mags like Motor Trend or Car and Driver.

boravr6 · February 2002

Thanks Guys. Unfortunately I am not the DIY types, and hence was considering a trip to the local Circuit City store. So I am wondering if to replace both the stereo and the speakers. Might stretch the budget a bit, but then might be worth it.

I realize that the DX has only 4 speakers. Any recommendations on any such system? How about the Sony Xplod thing. Has anyone done anything like this?

gasguzz · February 2002

Oh, another factor is the quality of the install. The independent stereo shops are more adept to this. In other words, go to Jiffy Lube and you MIGHT get a good mechanic.

auburn63 · February 2002

The flywheel surface is like that of a brake rotor (except the flywheel has only one matting surface). Once the surface gets heated too much it can distort or warp the surface. This uneven surface causes a clutch shutter when engaging.

The only thing you can do if it is moisture, is try and let the car heat up a bit before moving.I have seen a few with cars that sit for a while have this problem but not an every day car...The other possibility is clutch springs starting to go bad and if this is the case it will lead to the replacement of the clutch..Good luck

phelpsg · February 2002

Thanks to both of you for your input. I may let it go a while longer since the car seems to be performing good and the problem is not happening all the time. I don't think testing for a faulty VSS will rule it in or out because the problem is not continuous and probably won't occur while performing the test.

Anyway, thanks again.

daveyd · February 2002

Just do it yourself. It really isnt that hard. There are great instructions on www.7thgencivic.com

They also have instructions on door and rear deck speaker installs.

yettibutt · February 2002

What "gen" Civic do I have? Its a 94?

Thanks?

ronin_88 · February 2002

Yours is a 5th generation Civic.

5th: 92-95
6th: 96-00
7th: 01 +

eusnll · February 2002

Hi,

Anyone tried AEN cold air intake as a performance upgrade on 98/99 civic? Is it too noisy ? Does it worth the expense ?

Any comments will be appreciated

teddya · February 2002

HI,I have a similar problem. Firstly when i start the car, the ABS pump kicks off and makes a vague sound. The dealeship tells me its a hyperactive ABS. Secondly when the car goes over bumps or dips it makes a really annoying sound. Any inputs? I guess you have a similar problem to mine. Mine is a 2000 civic wiht 11k miles on it.
My civic otherwise drives well and gives me excellent milage.

ronin_88 · February 2002

Don't know about your ABS sound... As for the suspension sounds, for the new '01 Civics I have heard lots of minor complaints about various sounds coming from the suspension when going over speed bumps (shocks or springs maybe)... although I don't have this prob on my '01 EX.

millerd2 · February 2002

I just got a quote from my local Honda dealer for a tune up and replacement oxygen sensor for my '96 Civic - $350 for the sensor plus $300 for the tune up. This seems outrageous. Any comments about charges you've experienced for similar work would be appreciated.

auburn63 · February 2002

I don't know if you fall into the criteria but there is a emissions extension warranty available for 96-97 Honda's upto 150,000 miles. The first part of this extension is just an inspection for codes and if any are found the repair would be warranty, this is done bettween 50,000-75,000. From 75,000-150,000 you can get oil change,plugs,cap,rotor,and plug wires all for free. Therefore if you have a check engine light and have less than 150,000 miles then it should be covered under the extension. I don't know much of the price end of things but it does seem to be a bit expensive, call around to a few other Honda shops and price it.

yleecoyote · February 2002

I've run into a small dealer service issue over time that refuses to go away, so I will instead.
My original dealer's service department can't seem to get straight on the service intervals on the 2001 Civic. I was originally told to expect more than an oil change when making my 15,000 mile appointment. When I picked up the car, was informed that this interval was only an oil change (air filter should also have been checked or replaced) and to expect a major service at 20,000 miles. When I called about the 20,000 service, I was informed that it was only an oil change, didn't I mean the 15,000 interval that they had no record of! Well, outcome was that the service was brought up to date.
Now I'm at the 30,000 mile interval. Called about it yesterday, asked what to expect, was quoted numerous items, among them a sparkplug change. Was quoted $290 and informed that it was a major service interval. Knew that was wrong (change of plugs at 30K is recommended for 2000 model). Checked back in my owner's manual and this site and both agreed on the service items, Edmunds for my area estimated $154.
Thought about it overnight, was going to enter a dialog with my dealer this morning. First thing, I made a blind call to another dealer in town only mentioned the car, model, etc. and was immediately quoted the items mentioned in the owner's manual at a cost of $165. They now have my business.
It just wasn't worth the hassle of "negotiating" the items to be serviced each time with the original dealer. I believe they are operating with information on the previous generation Civic and haven't bothered updating to the new maintenance schedule.
I did follow this up with written correspondence to the dealer, but don't expect drastic action as this is not the first time that I've expressed service interval problems. It is really a shame, especially if it is only a training or documentation issue on their part. Price may make the sale, but Service keeps the customer!
Lesson learned, if you are not happy with one dealer, try another if you have that luxury.

coonpawz · February 2002

Hi, I'm new to the town hall, but just wanted to ask...........I'm thinking of buying my son a 94 Civic,our first Honda. Is there anything that that is "known" to be a common problem that I should look for? I've heard nothing but good things about them! Any info would be a great help! thanks!

yettibutt · February 2002

I just recently purchased a 94 Civic EX coupe, 93K on it, its perfect. You just have to make sure that the timing belt has been changed, the manual calls for this at 90K but I know the prev. owner broke hers at 78K. Thats all I know of. The only other thing I know the prev. owners changed were the clutch master and slave cylinders, they were leaking.

ticktock4321 · February 2002

Don't know how far back Consumer Reports auto issue goes when rating used cars. But they list all the different areas and where there may be trouble (i.e, electrical, brakes, transmission, etc.). The auto issue is due fairly soon I think. Last years (April I think) should probably have the info.

FWIW that's my favorite generation (believe it was '92-'95). Love the styling, the most sporty looking of the last few gens in my opinion. Prior to purchase run the VIN through one of those services (or have the dealer do it if you are buying from them) to make sure nothing funny happened to it.

jhardwood · February 2002

I bought a 94 sedan at a wholesale lot in 1998 and it had 124,000 miles on it. I commute almost 100 miles/day, so was looking for something to help me out.

This car has been super. Other than scheduled maintenance and getting the timing belt replaced (no signs of problems, but better safe than sorry), I have had no problems. It runs excellent, doing almost my entire commute at 80-84mph.

It shows no signs of dying, but I have already started looking for my next Civic....

zoomzoom79 · February 2002

Our 93 EX at 141,000 is great too. Excellent first car or commuter car if you ask me. Enough power, enough room, still looks good if clean, great gas mileage, and a comfortable ride. You can't ask for much more if you are looking for a cheap $4,000-$5,000 car.

autolover3 · February 2002

How much does it cost for a new timing belt to be replaced (dealership w/ labor included)? I have a 98 Civic EX auto. I need to see in my owner's manual if it needs changed at 60K or 90K. Thanks in advance.

cartagram · February 2002

At my 15K checkup, I mentioned the problem with the fuel guage and low fuel warning light that others have mentioned. The service dept. ordered a new instrument cluster. After the replacement, the service rep said that they had to replace it as per Honda's instructions but that the problem might instead be a fuel sensor. They said to bring it back if the problem persisted.

Not thinking this through, I found the new odometer was at 12 miles. My 15K were wiped away and I was starting over with a little sticker on the door jamb describing the odometer replacement and mileage.

Naive question 1: couldn't they roll the odometer forward to match the old one?

Naive question 2: despite the sticker, will the value of my car be knocked down at trade-in?

fxashun · February 2002

NQ1-no
NQ2-Yes

auburn63 · February 2002

Cost varies on the timing belt installation depending on where your from and where you get it done. Usally the timing belt is replaced in conjunction with the water pump and external belts which in NJ cost about $400.00 parts and labor. On the 98's I believe that it is recomended at 105,000.

autolover3 · February 2002

Thanks for the heads-up, Auburn63.

tapeboy99 · February 2002

the SRS airbag light on my 95 civic EX will not go out - started after i killed the battery and got a jump start
does anyone know how to disable the light so I can pass inspection? i'm scared to take it to the dealer, i'm sure they are going to charge me a fortune to get it fixed, and I can't afford to put any money in the car

maringa · February 2002

I have a 02 Civic 4dr. EX with about 3,000 miles. My first tank of gas gave me the best mileage at 34 mpg. Since then, it has steadily declined to about 29 mpg. I drive mostly highway miles and drive usually around 65 mph. I'm not thrilled about the mileage after hearing people getting about 38 to 40 mpg. Is it possible that there is a problem with the ignition system? Oxygen sensor? Anyone have similar problems?

sgrd0q · March 2002

pvilla wrote:

I'm just curious to know if anybody with 2001ex is having a knocking noise
coming from what I think is the front drivers side brake/suspension. I'm about to take it in to have it checked,it happens usually at low speeds when i'm coming to a stop going less than
10MPH .Also, I hear almost the same sound except its louder, coming from the passengers side
when I pass through a deep dip at speeds of 30-40MPH.

Aha! I was checking this board because my girlfriend's RSX-S has a similar problem!

It sounds like a clicking noise coming from the front left wheel. It's like something metallic is shifting. It's like it has two states - forward and backward, and clicks in the transition.

For instance when braking - I get a click - it is now in its "forward" state. From this point brake as hard as you will - there is no click.

Then accelerate, or go through a bump - I get a click - it is now in its "backward" state, and ready to click under braking.

And yes - normally happens at slow speed during braking.

Anyone have an idea what it might be?

Acura couldn't fix the problem initially, but we'll bring the car in for service soon, and ask to look into this again...

auburn63 · March 2002

your going to be told that what you are hearing is a normal shifting of the brake pads. This is a correct statement, however, if you do not like the sound and want it to go away for a while then what you can do or have done for you is apply a small amount of disc brake quiet to the back side of the pads. This will slow down the shift and eliminate the noise. Good luck

mikemw1 · March 2002

this also can happen when you have an aftermarket brake pad

sgrd0q · March 2002

Thanks guys! Will inspect the brake pads on my next visit to the dealer!

raywicoff · March 2002

I have a 2002 Civic that has trouble starting.
This has happened on 3 different days in the past
2 weeks. Have taken it to dealer twice with
no results. No remarkable circumstances surround
this--no extreme weather or conditions. Of course, car starts for dealer; they say nothing
can be done until the car doesn't start for them.
Any ideas? This is a brand new car--5000miles!

raywicoff · March 2002

Three times in the past 2 weeks my new (5000mi)
Civic failed to start until after several attempts were made. After about 10-20 minutes,
it would start. Have had it to the dealership
twice and they have found nothing. They say they
can't do anything until it doesn't start for
them! Does this make sense? What can I do?!!!

hondafan4 · March 2002

Hi raywicoff,
I am having similar problem with my brand new car(2002 civic). If its get cold (15-20) then I have to try 3/4 times before it starts...I will contact the dealer today and let you know if they say anything different..

rfruth · March 2002

My 00 Civic won't start until the key is left in the run position (not running yet) until the check engine light goes out (a few seconds) then crank and the engine fires right up. If I try to hurry & jab the key in and go straight to crank the engine won't start right away (my owners manual doesn't explain this process very well at all but there are pages and pages on how to use the radio) if your lucky this will help.

Honda Civic: Problems & Solutions

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Honda Civic: Problems &amp; Solutions

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Honda Civic: Problems & Solutions