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Honda Civic: Problems & Solutions

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    alarming9alarming9 Member Posts: 10
    Anyone have the procedure to unlock a Honda Radio 1992 Accord. Have the code. Thanks
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    purple6purple6 Member Posts: 1
    Hello,
    I realize you posted your message a while ago but I just bought a used Civic Ex Automatic (94) and I am experiencing the same problem. I just had the transmission fluid and filter changed but it seems to have a little (minute) trouble when shifting from 1st to second and 2nd to 3rd. I also found that by lifting up on the gas pedal a half second it shifts automatically. I am wondering what you did about the problem. Will I need a new transmission? Or how long can I hold out as you did for two years- meaning at what point do I have to do something about it? Any advice you (or anyone else) can provide on the issue is deeply appreciated as I am a novice and trying to save money.
    Thank you.
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    stan6stan6 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 1998 Honda Civic which I purchased new. I rarely use it as I live in Washington DC and take the subway. It has 9000 miles on it and it is in (I think) perfect condition. I took the car in to the dealership for a oil change. He said that Honda recommends that the timing belt be changed every seven years. He also stated that the price would be from $650.00 to $700.00. Should I spend that kind of money when the car only has 9000 miles on it and runs perfectly? Also, a friend was telling me that Honda Civic's have timing chain on them when rarely if ever break. Is he right?

    Thanks,

    Stan
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    ruking1ruking1 Member Posts: 19,826
    Check your specific model and year technical data to be sure. I do not know each and every specification, but my 2004 Honda Civic VP automatic has a timing BELT!!

    If I can project!! ?? The technical data indicates 110,000 miles/7 years. With 9,000 miles it is an easy case to make mathmatically to say you have 101,000 miles to go.

    On the other hand the 7 years time frame serves as a baseline. The dealer can make a case that given the manufacturers recommendation of 7 years, they can not be held responsible for the damage if the belt breaks. (establishing fearful doubt?)

    What they do not tell you is they are probably not responsible for the damage if after they change the belt the belt breaks and causes damage. They might however in the fine print gurantee the belt and labor for like 12,000 miles but the damage they alluded to would probably not be covered. Again the best is to see the written guarantees.

    I am not saying YOU should do THIS... BUT... IF the vehicle were mine, this is what I would do. Most vehicles in 7 years will go an average yearly 12-15 k miles. That of course translates to 84,000 to 105,000 miles. This is also hidden in plain sight: Honda recommends a timing belt change (among other things) 110,000 miles/7 years. Mathmatically this would indicate 15,714.285 miles!!!! Hmmm seems to be a coincidence here?? So given my 2004 Honda Civic 10,000 mile first oil change recommendation, YOU are not even past break in!!!

    Let us know what you decide.
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    yleecoyoteyleecoyote Member Posts: 32
    Discounting wear, which your belt doesn't have, that leaves age. Rubber compounds do age over time, one factor being ozone. The belt has fiber inside which actually carries the load with the rubber matrix of the belt holding the fiber in place. To better visualize, think of a fiberglass structure. The strength is in the fiber, but left alone they just flop all over the place. The epoxy cured without reinforcing fiber will crack apart when subjected to force. Put them together and you have a very strong structure.
    Your belt is the same. Despite rumors to the contrary, it won't just go from looking brand new into a broken belt. If you visually inspect the belt, you will see signs of wear and aging. Wear is fairly obvious, fraying on the edges, missing rubber teeth on the side where the belt touches the pulley are extremes. Less extreme are smaller cracks on the flat surface of the belt, the surface of which may also start looking glazed rather than flat black.
    The belt is fairly easy to inspect by removing the upper cover. You can then rotate the belt by turning the engine over by hand with the igntion off, or by bumping the ignition. Not the best idea, but some people drive with this cover off which makes inspection on a regular basis easy.
    You should be able to make a pretty good judgment call after looking at the belt if you should replace it or keep going. But remember, you are the one taking the gamble. We all have different tolerance for risk. If the idea of the belt being out of the maintenance replacement tolerance will bother you every time you drive, replace the belt for peace of mind. If on the other hand you are willing to assume the risk, keep an eye on it and keep driving. Mine is almost at 180,000 miles and four years, and it hasn't been replaced.
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    stan6stan6 Member Posts: 2
    Thank you both for replying to my message. I have decided not to replace the timing belt. If I was planning on taking a long trip out of town or if there were some symptoms that indicated there was something wrong with the belt, I would probably have it replaced. However, since I have AAA to come pick me and or my wife up if the belt breaks, and since we drive the car so infrequently, I see no need for me to spend all that money on a timing belt. I also note that the service writer at the dealership stated that Honda recommended that the timing belt be replaced every seven years. He did not state that the technican found anything wrong with the timing belt. He did not even state whether the technican even checked to see if there might be something wrong with the timing belt.

    Thanks again for your responses.

    Stan
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    civic1998civic1998 Member Posts: 1
    The check engine light on my 1998 came on and after connecting the diagnostics meter from autozone to the onboard computer, the O2 sensor(bank 1 sensor 1) was diagnosed to be the problem. I changed this sensor, replaced the spark plugs, sanded the distributor contacts, and cleaned out the air intake. The car runs much better now, however, even after resetting the error on the computer, the check engine light came on after restarting the car a couple of times. While replacing the O2 sensor I did find a crack in the exhaust manifold, and was wondering if this would cause the O2 sensor to malfunction? The car' runs a lot more smoothly when idle, and the fuel utilization has improved as well. Prior to replacing any of the parts (O2 sensor, spark plugs etc.) the car felt like it was about to die whenever idle. Any help would be appreciated!

    Thanks.
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    alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    While replacing the O2 sensor I did find a crack in the exhaust manifold, and was wondering if this would cause the O2 sensor to malfunction?

    It would cause the O2 sensor to do what it's designed to do, sense excess oxygen in the exhaust stream which the engine control computer would interpret as a lean air/fuel mixture.
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    miket99miket99 Member Posts: 6
    My 2003 Civic is locking me out of the car. Today the Honda alarm system locked the doors after I unlocked the doors and opened the trunk. After I had the trunk open for about a minute, the alarm system locked all the doors (like its supposed to) but then I pressed unlock on the keyfob to unlock the doors again but the door lock on the drivers door only went up a quarter inch, then went back down.

    I kept pressing unlock but the same thing kept happening, the drivers door lock would go up a little bit then right back down. Using the key in the door will not work either. HELP!
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    pedal2dmetalpedal2dmetal Member Posts: 19
    I need some help to resolve an issue with my 2000 Honda Civic. 80K and counting, but recently the car started running hot and happens at most times during heavy stop and go traffic or long periods of stops. At 70K, I replaced the Water Pump, all needed rubber tubes, and bearings. I suspect the issue to be either with the thermostat or ECT switch. How was I able to bypass the ECT switch and turn on the main fan at will if needed which accounts for the fan as ok by disconnecting the thermostat ECT sensor by the Thermostat housing. Second, major indicators show a rise from mid to 3/4 readings when this happens in which I will have to turn on the heater to reduce heat. With this not much time is needed to overcome the issue. But I would like to rule out the problem further prior to changing parts left and right. Third, having the AC on or off did not make much of a difference and was hoping that the 2nd fan will do some assistance in cooling. I guess this is the problem when you reside in Phoenix Arizona. Thanks for all the help...
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    pedal2dmetalpedal2dmetal Member Posts: 19
    Sorry to correct your friend but unless your friend drives an NSX, you are looking at a timing belt. Whe the miles you have, I don't think you need to worry about the T-belt. I think you will need to be more concerned about changing your fluids. For a car with very little miles and assume short distances when traveling. Just my 2 cents... The price sounds about right because you are paying for half of your money just for labor to say the least.
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    chickenfamilychickenfamily Member Posts: 1
    I need to replace the power switch. I don't want to damage the interior. How do I get to the switch?
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    blueiedgodblueiedgod Member Posts: 2,798
    I need to replace the power switch. I don't want to damage the interior. How do I get to the switch?

    Use a can opener to get to the switch from the outside :-) lol

    You will need to remove the interior door panel. If you plan on doing work your self, buy Helms manual. Haynes is ok, and chilton is really cheap. There should be a couple of screws and half dozen clips holding the panel to the door.
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    blueiedgodblueiedgod Member Posts: 2,798
    Sorry to correct your friend but unless your friend drives an NSX, you are looking at a timing belt. Whe the miles you have, I don't think you need to worry about the T-belt. I think you will need to be more concerned about changing your fluids. For a car with very little miles and assume short distances when traveling. Just my 2 cents... The price sounds about right because you are paying for half of your money just for labor to say the least

    The 1998 in question indeed has a timing belt, but don;t be so quick to make conclusions. There is a Civic with a timing chain -- 2002 -- 2005 Honda Civic Si uses K-series engine, which has timing chain.
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    arichinsarichins Member Posts: 2
    I hvae the same issue with my Honda Civic, although my Honda Civic is a 94 and has 200k miles. Last summer, my Civic began showing signs of overheating. The mechanic performed some tests and determined it was the Thermostat. He replaced the Thermostat and it was fixed, once the thermostat was installed the second fan would run once the engine reached the appropriate tempature.
    This morning on the way into work I started having the same issues. So I will be installing a new Thermostat tonight, hopefully this will resolve the issue. By the way I too live in Phoenix.
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    houstondigitalhoustondigital Member Posts: 2
    My check engine light comes on after driving for a few minutes, I lose power and the accelleration surges when idling. You can here it idle up and down. The first mechanic I took it to said I needed to replace the throttle body because the sensor on it was out. I replaced it with a slavage part with no luck so I decided to take it to a dealership and put it on a honda computer. They gave me codes 4,7,8,17
    quote: needs throttle body/distributor sub assembly/speed sensor

    (what they called a speed sensor is a sensor on the throttle body)

    First I put a brand new distributor from Auto Zone......

    Then I tried 2 more used throttle bodies with no luck!!!

    Should I buy a new throttle body from the dealer for $600?

    3 used throttle bodies with no luck? What are the odds?

    I need help!!!!!!!!!!!
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    houstondigitalhoustondigital Member Posts: 2
    Did you ever get this fixed I am having the same problem I have put 3 different throttle bodies on with no luck!
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    pedal2dmetalpedal2dmetal Member Posts: 19
    Cool..., looks like replacing the ETC switch did the trick. The replacement only took several minutes. Tools needed will be a 24mm socket to remove the sensor. Torque wrench to spec. back to 17ft.lbs and bleed the system of air. I took the extra step of cycling the fan at least five times prior to completely closing the radiator cap. Operating temp. seems to be back to normal and can tell that the fan kicks in on queue. Parts cost me $38.00 including tax from the dealer.
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    2004lx2004lx Member Posts: 1
    Dropping a line to find out what, if any, issues other civic owners may be having. I had my driver's seat bushings replaced under warranty but now have a moving seat again. I had a one time freak event when I started the car all of my gauges were dead. Lights worked and digital displays all worked but all my analog gauges were zeroed out. I cycled power by using the ignition key and everything came back on line. It only happened once. At temp below 10F the starter makes a whining noise after car sits a long time in the cold temp. I think it may be the solenoid not operating correctly at temp. On the positive side I replaced the stock springs with Eibach ProKit springs and couldn't be happier. Car sticks to the road now.
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    ncampbell2002ncampbell2002 Member Posts: 163
    Hi and welcome....I had the same problem with my driver's seat in my 03 EX coupe. I had to have the tracks replaced twice. The 2nd time I had them replaced there was a TSB for that issue so I think they may have resolved it because I have had the same seat tracks in there for about a year now with no problem.

    Aren't those springs great??!!!! I have a set on my car too..

    Peas
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    heavyfootheavyfoot Member Posts: 2
    WOW!!! Dude i just came across you post by dumb luck! I just bought a used Honda Civic Lx auto and i have the SAME PROBLEM!!! :mad: !!! Did you resolve this? I know what you mean by the shifting into 1st n 2nd, it feels like a manual right? It kinda jumps into gear. Now im being told by a number of people including my father that the car is just a "hard shifter" but i really refuse to believe that, it really cant be. So please let me know if you fixed it somehow or you ended up getting a new tranny and if you fixed it on your own somehow please o please let me know. cm in the same boat with you bro.

    It would be awesome if there was a recall like a while back that we didn't know about cuz that means.....NEW CAR!! :) or it just may be a damn :lemon:

    Matt
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    sambo1sambo1 Member Posts: 1
    Hello,

    I've searched on this forum regarding my problem but now I would like to get a personal answer.

    I civic started overheating about a month ago. I would drive it for an hour or so on country roads and highways and the would be fine. Then when I do more stop and go my temp needle would go up, couple of time it went to the top for 4-5 seconds and then back to normal.

    My coolant is new, radiators are good(although one of the two should be replaced soon.
    However, one of the fans( the fan closer to the coolant tank) is not working. I checked the fuse(one fuse runs both fans) and it is fine. It could be an electrical problem with the fan. I will check this out with my friend sometime this weekend.

    Any of you guys have a problem similar to this? or have suggestions for me on what to do?

    I appreciate your time and take care
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    civic2001civic2001 Member Posts: 30
    My 2001 EX (41000 miles) has developed a really annoying squeaky noise from the rear suspension. Checking the internet has yielded at least one TSB on this problem. There is even an article describing way to isolate the problem and the proper replacement part number. Well, I took the car to a local Honda dealer. It confirms that the rear lower control arm bushings need to be replaced at a cost of $580. It mentioned the parts are not expensive, majority of the cost is for labor.

    I decline the service for now, but would appreciate any comment on whether this is a reasonable charge. Thanks.
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    sirdonsirdon Member Posts: 10
    hi,
    i've had the very same problem with a 1993 honda civic. you might want to change the distributor cap, rotor and wires, especially the wires.
    worked for me ;)
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    sirdonsirdon Member Posts: 10
    hi there,
    spark plug wires... were they ever changed at all the processes?
    try changing them yourself and save a few bucks .
    good luck!
    ;)
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    93civicdead93civicdead Member Posts: 2
    I'M DRIVING ALONG AT 70 MPH ON THE TURN PIKE AND THE ENGINE JUST SHUTS OFF. IT SEEMS LIKE I LOOSE THE IGNITION BECAUSE THEIRS NO BACK FIRING. I PULL OVER AND THE CAR JUST CRANKS BUT WONT START. SO I GET THE THING TOWED HOME AND GO OUT TO TROUBLE SHOOT IT THE NEXT MORNING AND THE CAR STARTS RIGHT UP AND RUNS GREAT. I DRIVE IT FOR A LITTLE BIT AND THE ENGINE SHUTS OFF AGAIN. I GET TOWED HOME AND THE NEXT MORNING THE CAR STARTS RIGHT UP. I FELL MY DISTRIBITER IS GOING BAD. JUST WONDERING IF ANYONE ELSE HAS SEEN THIS PROBLEM?
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    93civicdead93civicdead Member Posts: 2
    Sounds like a head gasket has let go. I had the same thing happen to my 93. It will take a while to see coolant loss, but your guage indications are already telling you that you have a problem. It could be a major as a cracked head, but most of the time its a head gasket.
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    asg2307asg2307 Member Posts: 8
    My wiper control stalk does not stay in one place without help with a rubber band. Can this be fixed or does it need to be replaced? Note: only vehicle at this time.
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    jbrookjbrook Member Posts: 1
    Honda shop recently told me that the sensor was frozen in place and it might be necessary to break the manifold to get it out and replace it. (95 del sol). does that make sense. any relation to your crack?
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    blueiedgodblueiedgod Member Posts: 2,798
    Hello,

    I've searched on this forum regarding my problem but now I would like to get a personal answer.

    I civic started overheating about a month ago. I would drive it for an hour or so on country roads and highways and the would be fine. Then when I do more stop and go my temp needle would go up, couple of time it went to the top for 4-5 seconds and then back to normal.

    My coolant is new, radiators are good(although one of the two should be replaced soon.
    However, one of the fans( the fan closer to the coolant tank) is not working. I checked the fuse(one fuse runs both fans) and it is fine. It could be an electrical problem with the fan. I will check this out with my friend sometime this weekend.

    Any of you guys have a problem similar to this? or have suggestions for me on what to do?

    I appreciate your time and take care

    One radiator is for the A/C, the other is for the Engine. The two fans are independant of each other. Turn your A/C on and you should see the other fan come on. That is if the system is charged. If you are low on refrigerant, the a/c will not enagage, nor will the fan. You can trace the hoses to see which is which. If your car is overheating, and then cools off, then it is most likley the engine radiator fan that is shot, or wiring is pinched. Get your self a multimeter and check it all out. If it is indeed the fan, and not the wiring, the replacement is easy. Unplug the connector (you may have to push in a pin or something to unlock it. Remove two bolts on top, loosen two on the bottom (may depend on the year), pull the fan straight up. Installation is reverse.
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    blueiedgodblueiedgod Member Posts: 2,798
    I'M DRIVING ALONG AT 70 MPH ON THE TURN PIKE AND THE ENGINE JUST SHUTS OFF. IT SEEMS LIKE I LOOSE THE IGNITION BECAUSE THEIRS NO BACK FIRING. I PULL OVER AND THE CAR JUST CRANKS BUT WONT START. SO I GET THE THING TOWED HOME AND GO OUT TO TROUBLE SHOOT IT THE NEXT MORNING AND THE CAR STARTS RIGHT UP AND RUNS GREAT. I DRIVE IT FOR A LITTLE BIT AND THE ENGINE SHUTS OFF AGAIN. I GET TOWED HOME AND THE NEXT MORNING THE CAR STARTS RIGHT UP. I FELL MY DISTRIBITER IS GOING BAD. JUST WONDERING IF ANYONE ELSE HAS SEEN THIS PROBLEM?

    Why are you screaming?
    First you have to confirm that you are getting fuel to the injectors. Hook up the fuel pressure gauge to the end of the fuel rail (there is fitting there) IF that is fine, then you have to check if you are getting spark. And so on.. You have to do all this while the car is malfunctioning. It makes no sence to wait until the morning, when everything works fine.

    P.S. Try to be a little bit more queter next time. Shouting will not get you far.
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    blueiedgodblueiedgod Member Posts: 2,798
    My wiper control stalk does not stay in one place without help with a rubber band. Can this be fixed or does it need to be replaced? Note: only vehicle at this time.

    I assume you have a Honda and it is a Civic of some year and trim level. The replacement is probably the only solution.Depending on the year, you may have to deal with airbag removal. Steering wheel will be bolted down using a nut. Once steering wheel is removed, there should be screws or bolts, specific to your model, which will allow you to remove the turn signal/high beam/headlight switch and wiper switch on opposite side. Once again, depending on the year it may be a two piece or one piece assembly.
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    alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    My info only goes back as far as '88 Civic, but this should be the same procedure as the '85. If your radio has a theft-lock, record the code prior to disconnecting the battery:

    Windshield Wiper/Washer Switch
    Honda Civic/CRX/del Sol 1984-1995 Repair Guide

    REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
    1988-91 Models

    Disconnect the negative battery cable.
    Remove the upper and lower steering column covers.
    Disconnect the connectors from the switch.
    Remove the switch retaining screws and slide the switch from its mount.

    To install:
    Install the new switch in position and connect the electrical leads.
    Install the upper and lower steering column covers.
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    dead9uydead9uy Member Posts: 6
    This morning I noticed that my srs dash light came on as I shifted into 2nd gear. I got on the highway and drove for awhile with no change. When I exited and came to a stop the light went off. As soon as I accellerated again it came back. I can't figure how that light could be connected to accelleration? Any thoughts?
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    87civichatch87civichatch Member Posts: 3
    Hi, I'm looking for Honda clubs in the DC area where I can get some advice on how to treat my 87 civic hatchback.
    I thought I posted a message along these lines yesterday, but I don't see it in the forum yet, so here goes again.
    Thanks.
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    ddechaineddechaine Member Posts: 3
    Don't wait to have the clunking thing looked into. It cost me less then $10.00 and ten minutes of my time to diagnosis and repair. Get under your civic locate sway bar. If when you move your sway bar by hand it moves the bushing need to be replaced. you can do this yourself. Two screws one on each bushing. Your car will run like new.
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    ddechaineddechaine Member Posts: 3
    I've owned this 2001 Civic since it was new. I live in Maine on about Oct when the air temp gets into the 50's of each year my gas mileage drops off as much as 8 mpg. This will continue until the air temp gets around 60 degrees. Is this common?
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    blueiedgodblueiedgod Member Posts: 2,798
    I've owned this 2001 Civic since it was new. I live in Maine on about Oct when the air temp gets into the 50's of each year my gas mileage drops off as much as 8 mpg. This will continue until the air temp gets around 60 degrees. Is this common?

    Your gas station switches to winter gas, which will give you lower MPG's. Are you warming up the car? That will lower your MPG's as well. According to Honda it is OK to drive cold.
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    jessiegjessieg Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1997 Honda Civic LX and a few days ago I noticed that it seemed like it didn't want to shift gears normally (it's an automatic). It's been getting worse each time I drive it. Then this morning the warning light went on, which in the manual is a "malfunction indicator lamp." Does anyone have any idea what could be the problem? I'm worried that it's my transmission and that it's going to cost a lot. If anyone knows anything about what this could be, I'd appreciate it! Thanks. :confuse:
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    civic_vpcivic_vp Member Posts: 1
    I just purchased a 2005 Civic VP 4DR Auto. About 3 hours after delivery and 40 miles of driving, I experienced a mechanical problem with the vehicle. While in my level driveway, I started the car, kept my foot on the brake, and shifted into reverse (auto transmission). The car immediately lunged backward as if I pressed the accelerator to the floor. My foot never left the brake pedal. I immediately shifted into neutral and shut off the engine, then I restarted and everything was normal. The car did not come equipped with floor mats. I immediately called the Honda salesperson and he said to park it and have it towed in. The next morning the car was towed into the service dept. They ran a series of road and computer diagnostics and found no problem. I told them that I wished to return the vehicle and reported the problem to American Honda. The dealer said that they have a 72 hour exchange/upgrade policy but NO return policy. The dealer still has the car since I refused to drive it. What are my options.?????
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    gx222gx222 Member Posts: 32
    Sorry to hear about your car's problem. Must be very frustrating, especially since its brand new.

    One thing you might want to do is file a report with the NHTSA, you can do it online at http://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/ivoq/

    Problems are tracked and that will help other owners, although won't probably help you at this point.
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    gx222gx222 Member Posts: 32
    My dealer looked at the problem and said there was nothing wrong. It still makes the noise. I'll look under the car, but I find it hard to believe it would need new bushings already, a new car shouldn't start clunking at only 10,000 miles.
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    demon_downloaddemon_download Member Posts: 1
    Hey guys I am having some big problems with my 1989 honda crx. last December I had a problem with the electrical system where the electronic load detector or sensor went out along with the speed sensor and one other thing that wasnt a big deal. Anyways I think that the cables to the alternator are faulty or something because today I was sitting in traffic for about an hour didnt have the ac on or anything on. I got through the traffic and on my way to work I noticed the battery light came on I thought nothing of it cuz I thought the car is hot and it just needs to cool off. After work I started my car and the battery light came back on and stays on when I start driving but turns off when I sit idle doing nothing. I am starting to lose confidence in my little car that I love so much. I take exellent care of it which is something that I dont understand. Is the alternator faulty or is it the entire electrical system or is it just the battery any help would be great.

    Thanks
    Zach
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    fe203fe203 Member Posts: 21
    The sway bar bushings are prone to wear. They only cost about 4-5 bucks each. it's worth replacing them, you should get rid of the noise.
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    isellhondasisellhondas Member Posts: 20,342
    I don't understand how this is possible. If you foot was, indeed, pressing down on the brake pedel, it would be impossible for that Civic, or any other make of car for that matter, to "lunge" into reverse.
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    chuckmn8chuckmn8 Member Posts: 1
    i need some advice on removing a automatic flywheel to put on a manual fly....are there tools i could make real easy to remove it or tools i could rent real easy to remove it with out screwing things up....its my first engine pull by myself :confuse:
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    blueiedgodblueiedgod Member Posts: 2,798
    i need some advice on removing a automatic flywheel to put on a manual fly....are there tools i could make real easy to remove it or tools i could rent real easy to remove it with out screwing things up....its my first engine pull by myself

    I am not sure what are you trying to do? If you just replace the flywheel designed for automatics with a flywheel designed for manuals, what does it accomplish? Are you sure tha pressure plate mounting holes on the manual flywheel are in the same location as the torque converter mounting holes on the automatic flywheel?

    If you are going for the lightened flywheel, to get more power, you need to lose the slushbox first. Any power gains and engine responsivness will be minimized by the auto tranny.
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    blueiedgodblueiedgod Member Posts: 2,798
    I just purchased a 2005 Civic VP 4DR Auto. About 3 hours after delivery and 40 miles of driving, I experienced a mechanical problem with the vehicle. While in my level driveway, I started the car, kept my foot on the brake, and shifted into reverse (auto transmission). The car immediately lunged backward as if I pressed the accelerator to the floor. My foot never left the brake pedal. I immediately shifted into neutral and shut off the engine, then I restarted and everything was normal. The car did not come equipped with floor mats. I immediately called the Honda salesperson and he said to park it and have it towed in. The next morning the car was towed into the service dept. They ran a series of road and computer diagnostics and found no problem. I told them that I wished to return the vehicle and reported the problem to American Honda. The dealer said that they have a 72 hour exchange/upgrade policy but NO return policy. The dealer still has the car since I refused to drive it. What are my options.?????

    What was the engine RPM when the car lurched? If it were running higher than 1000 RPM's any auto will lurch. I think your only recourse is to take the dealer up on the 72 hour replacement policy and get your self a manual LX. This way nothing will be lurching (if you clutch it smoothly) when you engage the gears.
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    blueiedgodblueiedgod Member Posts: 2,798
    I have a 1997 Honda Civic LX and a few days ago I noticed that it seemed like it didn't want to shift gears normally (it's an automatic). It's been getting worse each time I drive it. Then this morning the warning light went on, which in the manual is a "malfunction indicator lamp." Does anyone have any idea what could be the problem? I'm worried that it's my transmission and that it's going to cost a lot. If anyone knows anything about what this could be, I'd appreciate it! Thanks

    Have AutoZone (free) or the dealer (1 hour of labor charge) read the code and tell you what it is.
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    da1andonlydjrda1andonlydjr Member Posts: 1
    Your best bet is to take your car to an Auto Zone if you have them near by. They can plug a code reader into your car and find out what is wrong. Best part is they do it for free! That way once you find out why the light is on, it will be much easier to fix! Hope this helps
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