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Honda Civic: Problems & Solutions

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Comments

  • dead9uydead9uy Member Posts: 6
    I'm having the same problem but it's the SRS light that comes on and then goes off when I come to a stop. I also noticed that the subwoofer will cut out when I start and kick back on when I stop. I would appreciate any thoughts as well.
  • sequoia3sequoia3 Member Posts: 3
    Can anyone recommend a GREAT Independent Honda Mechanic in the Central Texas Area for my 1991 Civic 5-speed sedan? I am in Fredericksburg TX, and often in Blanco, Boerne, and am willing drive a ways for a great mechanic. Thanks.
  • pipipipi Member Posts: 4
    Hi, everyone.
    I own an 04 civic VP. The mileage is about 11k. At this point I changed the engine oil at a local shop(This is the second lube service since I purchased this car). Now there is a few oil leaking underneath which never happened before. Since I don't know much about car, there is no conclusion I could make by myself. However I would assume that guy who changed the oil did something wrong, maybe the oil was over added. Could anyone give me some comments, and if this will eventually damage the engine?

    thanks!
  • temj12temj12 Member Posts: 450
    My guess is that it is the filter. Honda has some type of a seal that comes with their filters. The filter has to be put on correctly and my guess is that it was not. I would only have it serviced at Honda dealers.
  • gx222gx222 Member Posts: 32
    Be careful about oil leaking in a Honda. Honda has a dangerous problem with engine fires in new CRVs because of oil leaking from the filters.
  • gx222gx222 Member Posts: 32
    Over time the passenger side air bag cover on my 03 Civic has turned a different color than the rest of the instrument panel. Does anyone else have this problem? I've never had a car that this has happened to. I always garage my Civic and always put a sun shield up during the day.
  • gx222gx222 Member Posts: 32
    Has anyone had any luck with the new bushings peranently fixing the rocking of the driver's seat?

    It seems like the rocking will go away for a little while after replacing the bushing, then it comes back again. Will Honda keep replacing these seat bushings even after the warranty expires since its a known problem?
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Member Posts: 2,798
    Hi, everyone.
    I own an 04 civic VP. The mileage is about 11k. At this point I changed the engine oil at a local shop(This is the second lube service since I purchased this car). Now there is a few oil leaking underneath which never happened before. Since I don't know much about car, there is no conclusion I could make by myself. However I would assume that guy who changed the oil did something wrong, maybe the oil was over added. Could anyone give me some comments, and if this will eventually damage the engine?

    thanks!

    If it was done at one of those "Jiffy lube" oil changing places chances are that they nevere reaplced the crush washer with a new one. They just tightened the the plug over the old one. You will be lucky if they have not stripped the thread on the alluminum oil pan, which will cost you more to re-thread than you will save by doing oil changes at "quicky lube"

    It is also possible that the filter is not on tight.

    It is also possible that they spilled some oil on the cross member, or control arm while removing the filter and now it is just dripping away, until it gets on the hot exhaust pipe and you car goes up in smoke.

    Solution:
    1)Go back and have them find out why it is dripping.
    2) Next time go to a dealer, or a place that hires competent workforce.
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Member Posts: 2,798
    I'm having the same problem but it's the SRS light that comes on and then goes off when I come to a stop. I also noticed that the subwoofer will cut out when I start and kick back on when I stop. I would appreciate any thoughts as well.

    I don't think 1989 Civic CRX came with air bags to have an SRS light on the dashboard.

    But anyway, sounds like you have alternator, voltage regulator or battery not being up to the task. Either the subs fried the stock alternator/voltage regulator, or battery is too small for the power draw.
    Get a bigger battery
    Get a bigger alternator/voltage regulator.
  • dead9uydead9uy Member Posts: 6
    After some digging around and voltage testing it seems the alternator is producing too much juice and needs to be replaced. When I rev the engine it spikes to almost 19 volts which is clipping the sub signal and tweaking the instrument panel. When I turn everything on, lights, defrost, heater and such it doesn't occur.
  • isellhondasisellhondas Member Posts: 20,342
    The senario described here is impossible. If that person was indeed, stepping on the brake pedal the car could not have "lurched" into reverse.

    Audi nearly went out of business years ago when their cars got blamed for this. It was strictly driver error.

    This may be a case of buyer's remorse...I don't know.
  • deetekdeetek Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2005 EX Coupe, and the same thing happened to me once ! I thought I accidently hit the gas by mistake! Now I know it wasn't me - hearing that it happened to you too! Take the car back and complain about the same thing 3 times, and the Lemon Law forces them to replace it ! If it happens to me again, Honda will certainly hear from me !
  • deetekdeetek Member Posts: 2
    The same thing happened to me also ! I possess a CDL license and have been driving for 20 years ! Not driver error, I assure you ! The car lunged backwards as if my foot were on the gas and brake at the same time! Are you familiar with power braking? It felt something like that!
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Member Posts: 2,798
    The senario described here is impossible. If that person was indeed, stepping on the brake pedal the car could not have "lurched" into reverse.

    Audi nearly went out of business years ago when their cars got blamed for this. It was strictly driver error.

    This may be a case of buyer's remorse...I don't know.

    If the car was idling high, it is very possible that when engaged auto tranny will make the car lurch. One should not engage auto tranny when the engine is revving above 1000 RPM's. I wouldn't be surprised if the manual mentioned "fast idle" operation.

    As for the previous 3 posts, one more reason to get Honda with a manual. It is a shame, Honda makes the slickest manual and the most buttery clutch mated to an engine designed to take advantage of the manual shift and clutch, and people waste all that engineering on a slush box.

    I'll be the first to admit that Honda has not figured out how to make Auto trannys, but they have definatley mastered the manual. Get what they are good at.
  • gee35coupegee35coupe Member Posts: 3,387
    A well pressed brake pedal won't let the car roll at all. A little lurch can be expected when first starting the car since the engine will be revving around 1500 rpm to warm up. But if the brake is firmly depressed, it shouldn't cause any problems.
  • isellhondasisellhondas Member Posts: 20,342
    What you call a "lurch" I was under the assumption the car continued to back up even though the brake pedal was being stepped on.

    I suspect much ado about nothing but then, I wasn't there either. I've driven, literally thousands of Hondas and I've never experienced this.
  • tm_silencetm_silence Member Posts: 2
    I have an automatic 2001 Honda Civic Sedan. Recently I had to replace my alternator and in after doing so, 2 weeks later it decided to not work anymore, and I had to get another one. Since the first alternator was put in, the car didn't seem to be running like it did. The RPM's seemed to not be "normal?" (Sorry for the crappy explaination, I'm not good with cars) When I accelerate the cars rpm's go to 3000-3500, then when it changes gears the needle drops to 1000?? Is that right? I dont mean it slowly goes down to 1000, it just plumits! I'm afraid maybe something electrical is wrong with it, I have a feeling my alternator is going to go out again...and if it does it will be my third time replacing it...Do I have something electrical going wrong by any chance??

    :confuse:
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Member Posts: 2,798
    I have an automatic 2001 Honda Civic Sedan. Recently I had to replace my alternator and in after doing so, 2 weeks later it decided to not work anymore, and I had to get another one. Since the first alternator was put in, the car didn't seem to be running like it did. The RPM's seemed to not be "normal?" (Sorry for the crappy explaination, I'm not good with cars) When I accelerate the cars rpm's go to 3000-3500, then when it changes gears the needle drops to 1000?? Is that right? I dont mean it slowly goes down to 1000, it just plumits! I'm afraid maybe something electrical is wrong with it, I have a feeling my alternator is going to go out again...and if it does it will be my third time replacing it...Do I have something electrical going wrong by any chance??

    Failing alternator may be the symptom not the cause. You have to find out why the alternator failed in the first place. It may also depend where you get your alternator. AutoZone is known for really shoddy parts, but they are cheap, and poeple like that. If you got the alternator from AutoZone, then I would not be surprized if it failed again for no apparent reason.

    What you describe could be a sign of tranny skipping a gear. It could be computer related or mechanical. How hard are you pressing the accelerator when it happends? You may not be givingf it enough gas to shift sequencially, and it skips a gear. Next time, on a clear street or an empty parking lot, put the tranny in D, floor the accelerator and watch the tach. You should had 4 distinct shifts, and one minor shift. Allow enough room to slow down, as you will be reaching 60-80 mph.
  • yleecoyoteyleecoyote Member Posts: 32
    This sounds like a voltage regulator problem. I'm not certain where the regulator is located on the 1989 CRX. At one time all voltage regulators were in the engine compartment as separate components. Some are integrated into the alternator, alternator change out may be your only option if that is the case. Worth checking into, it is cheaper than an alternator if it is a separate component, also changing the alternator would not fix the problem if the regulator is a separate component and it is bad.

    If it is integrated in the alternator and you have a problem locating an alternator, or it is expensive, an auto electric shop should be able to replace the integrated voltage regulator inside the alternator.
  • tm_silencetm_silence Member Posts: 2
    I got both alternators at Napa Autoparts....My alternator was not cheap $300+ being that it is only a one year alternator for that car. Both alternators were tested at the shop and passed, the first one lasted about 2 1/2 weeks before it failed. The guy at the shop said it was charging then discharging. I'm accelerating normally, it just doesn't seem to be going into gear as it should be. It goes into 1st and 2nd gear fine, but after that, the needle just bounces up an down when breaking. When I break it drops from 2,500 to 1,000 and kinda jumps to 1,500 while still decreasing in speed. If it is computer or mechanical related is it an expensive thing to fix? The car is only four years old. My warrenty ended too...would it be cheaper for me to get another warrenty with Honda, or should I just take it to a shop?

    :(
  • ainsworthainsworth Member Posts: 1
    My sons 1995 Civic LX sstarts and runs fine - after about 10-15 minutes, the reservoir starts bubling over! I see no leaks in any hoses - both fans turn on at different times when they are supposed to - the temp gauge seems fine until it starts bubling over, then it moves to 1/2 way up (I turn it off quickly so I do not toast the head gasket). I am thinking it is the thermostat not functioning correctly - what think you ? :confuse:
  • jasmine45678jasmine45678 Member Posts: 2
    Could someone please help? When my car is at a stop, it feels like it has a lot of power and I have to really step on the brake because I feel like it's going to take off. Notice the RPM isn't as low as it should be. Put the car on "park" and then stepped on the gas to see if the RPM would go up and then down again and it just stayed at the top. What could it possibly be, how much do the parts cost, and is it very expensive to repair? Could it be something minor or is it something major like the transmission. :cry:
  • jasmine45678jasmine45678 Member Posts: 2
    Just by the symptoms I mentioned, mechanic thinks it's the carburator but it got that replaced 1 1/2 yrs. ago and have put 12000 or less miles on it. Hopefully, it's something minor and not the carburator. Can't take another $$$$ caburbator.
  • stevek75stevek75 Member Posts: 1
    my son is leaving in a 1/2 hour for a long trip and I can't seem to find out how to check the transmission fluid in the 5 speed manusl- please answer ASAP thanks!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
  • 91_honda_civic91_honda_civic Member Posts: 1
    I have a manual 1991 Honda Civic Hatchback SI, I bought the car used with 177,000 miles on it, its a 5-speed engine. The engine shakes very badly, I tried putting new oil, PVC Valve but nothing helped, Does anybody know what might be the problem here? also, there is sometimes smoke coming from where you check the oil. also, i think the battery is about 6 years old so if changing the battery, do you think it would stop the shaking? so if anybody can help me out of why the engine shakes please do, thanks...
  • stan9stan9 Member Posts: 1
    I have a Honda Civic which is almost 7 years old. It only has 9000 miles on it. I drive it infrequently because I live in Washington, DC and take the metro ie., trains. The car is in, I think, perfect condition. It has the original tires on the car and it looks like they have plenty of thread. I am thinking about taking a long trip. I have been reading some reports that tires should be replaced after 6 years regardless of the mileage on the tire and how much tread it has. Should I have my original tires that came with the car replaced?

    Stan
  • ncampbell2002ncampbell2002 Member Posts: 163
    This is kind of a tricky one.....It will be near the bottom on the left hand side looking at the front of the vehicle. What you actually have to do is open up the drain plug which is a bolt horizontally attached to the transmission. Then feel in there to see if the oil is filled to the bottom of that hole. If it is then you are fine! There is no dipstick on a manual though like there is on an automatic.
  • ncampbell2002ncampbell2002 Member Posts: 163
    I would recommend listening to this report. Over time rubber tends to dry out and eventually start to rot. They may not hold up on a long trip. For your own safety spend the extra $200 or so and get em replaced!
  • jere39jere39 Member Posts: 20
    I searched this discussion thread and did not find this topic. A couple weeks ago, all four Power Windows on my 1996 Civic EX Sedan failed at the same time. (Fortunately in the full up position). Neither does any of the driver door switches work, nor the window lock on the driver door. Since failure, I've checked, rechecked, and rotated all identified fuses under the dash, and under the hood. I've swapped relays under the hood too. Nothing changes the simple symptom, i.e. the switches do not lower the windows. There is no sound, suggesting any motors are attempting to lower stuck windows, nothing. It seems to me this must be some problem in a point of common electrical control, but I can't find it. I should add the sun roof works fine. As the weather in PA finally seems to be getting warm, I sure wish I could open a window. I do have A/C, but I prefer fresh air.
    I have been advised that there may be a relay, or fuse, or switch problem inside the driver side door. I'd be willing to take the inside door panel off, but experience tells me it is easier to do if you know the right sequence to remove a couple screws, and pop the trim clips, and I don't.

    I'd appreciate either of:
    1) Advice regarding possible power window repair ideas
    2) Advice for removing the drivers side door panel to look for/at any switch/fuse/relay inside there.

    Thanks,
    Jere
  • rich12rich12 Member Posts: 1
    I bought a 2002 Honda Civic 3 years ago, new. I have experienced the same or similar problem three times. The first time I thought the floor mat might be the problem and threw it out but it has happened twice again, most recently yesterday. The first two times I had just started the engine and put it in reverse while my foot was on the brake; the engine suddenly went into high rpm and lurched backwards, only restrained by pressing hard on the brakes. After restarting the engine, everything was normal. Yesterday, exiting the freeway, I braked for the ramp which should have (and probably did) disengage the cruise control. Suddenly the engine roared; I braked very hard and glanced at the tachometer and saw it was revving to about 3000 rpm. I continued to brake hard, put it into neutral and turned off the ignition, then immediately restarted it to get out of traffic. Scares the you-know-what out of me. I'll be taking the car to the dealer later this week if I can get off work long enough,but your experience with the dealer leaves me pessimistic.
  • desmond1desmond1 Member Posts: 2
    engine vibrations are often engine mounts or the car can't process it's oxigen fuel mixture. Check the air filter to see if the car can breathe, after that if you have done a basic tune-up (new pvc valve, spark plugs&wires, new cap and roter for your distributer, oil change, fluid check, ect... Look at the rubber mounts that hold your engine to the car. After all that I would suggest a shop because there are too many possibilities, bad tires, shaking while stopping would be the disc brakes telling you the roters need to be machined, pretty cheap. Clogged fuel filter would cause mostly sputtering and hesitation when accellerating, don't care about spelling, just trying to help
  • desmond1desmond1 Member Posts: 2
    I've had the same problem, and got a little creative with electrical grease. I have a fuel inj. 1988 and the only thing that worked for me was starter spray 4 seconds streight down the choke and the ignighter is located in the distributer and I put a pea sized amount of electrical grease where the knob sticks out inside the distributer directly above the roter to help the electrical current and after a few spins, o.k. maybe more than a few, it finally kicked over. I also put the grease where your supposed to put it, on the ends of my spark plug wires. whatever helps...
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Member Posts: 2,798
    I got both alternators at Napa Autoparts....My alternator was not cheap $300+ being that it is only a one year alternator for that car. Both alternators were tested at the shop and passed, the first one lasted about 2 1/2 weeks before it failed. The guy at the shop said it was charging then discharging. I'm accelerating normally, it just doesn't seem to be going into gear as it should be. It goes into 1st and 2nd gear fine, but after that, the needle just bounces up an down when breaking. When I break it drops from 2,500 to 1,000 and kinda jumps to 1,500 while still decreasing in speed. If it is computer or mechanical related is it an expensive thing to fix? The car is only four years old. My warrenty ended too...would it be cheaper for me to get another warrenty with Honda, or should I just take it to a shop?

    It is diffuclt to diagnose ofver the internet, but I can suggest you try Honda OEM Alernator. Try online parts shops, like HandA and Fair Honda. You would have to call them for the price on the part, but it will be cheaper than your local dealer. Honda designed the 7th generation alternators to be "free wheeling" when battery is 100-85% charged. The "freewheeling" is achieved through the voltage regulator, which I believe is built into the alternator. I am not sure if aftermarket replacements have the same circuitry as OEM.

    As far as the tranny goes. Is it manual or Auto? Sounds like Auto going through the "grade logic" algorithm. The car is basically downshifting like a manual would, to assist in braking.
  • jwmahoneyjwmahoney Member Posts: 4
    The shop manual calls for a special tool to hold the crank shaft pulley while loosening the bolt to remove the pulley. Is there a better way? Is the special tool really necessary? Is this tool readily available?

    John Mahoney
  • yleecoyoteyleecoyote Member Posts: 32
    Do some general internet searches on this and you will find a few sites that deal with this question. This bolt is very tight. I don't have my manual with me, but it seems that on the 2001 the instruction for tightening this bolt is something like tighten to 45 foot pounds and then turn it another 180 degrees. That is torque!
    I bought the tool from one of the on-line speed shops, I think it is a Moroso brand, around $80. Knowing the torque involved, I wouldn't go with anything that is low quality. After the crank is held, there are stories of people standing on very long cheater bars trying to loosen the bolt.
    One of the best solutions that I have heard of is to take it to a garage that can apply the proper impact wrench to loosen the bolt. Have them retighten enough for you to drive home and complete the job yourself.
  • elefantpowerelefantpower Member Posts: 1
    a few weeks ago, i took my honda civic 87 to mechanic due to leak in radiator.
    they suggested to install a new radiator, so i did.
    then next day, it overheat again, so i took my car again, and fixed a fan.
    when i picked up my car, a mechanic said my temperature gauge read higher than actual temperature.
    so i drove for 30mins, it goes to RED.
    engine doesn't seem that hot, and i just fixed the radiator and fan, so shouldn't overheat anyway,
    but every time i see the needle point RED i get nervous.
    i dont really want to pay again to check radiator, any suggestion?
    thanks
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Member Posts: 2,798
    a few weeks ago, i took my honda civic 87 to mechanic due to leak in radiator.
    they suggested to install a new radiator, so i did.
    then next day, it overheat again, so i took my car again, and fixed a fan.
    when i picked up my car, a mechanic said my temperature gauge read higher than actual temperature.
    so i drove for 30mins, it goes to RED.
    engine doesn't seem that hot, and i just fixed the radiator and fan, so shouldn't overheat anyway,
    but every time i see the needle point RED i get nervous.
    i dont really want to pay again to check radiator, any suggestion?
    thanks

    Although it is possible that the gauge is faulty, I would not rule out the coolant flow problem as the cause. Either water pump is not pumping it, or there is blockage somewhere, such as stuck thermostat, or calcium build up from using tap water, and non-Honda branded antifreeze.
  • jwmahoneyjwmahoney Member Posts: 4
    Thanks for the information!
    Appreciate your quick response

    John
  • dman2123dman2123 Member Posts: 1
    i am having a the same problem with my 90 crx. my temp goes up and down in the afternoon but in the morning it stays where it should be. i cant figure out what the problem is any help would be appreciated
  • delsolmomdelsolmom Member Posts: 2
    I have a 95 Del Sol - Just yesterday I had the radiator replaced, the timing belt and the water pump - Basically I knew I had a hairline fracture in the radiator and I was losing coolant but I was watching it and the engine temp - Then on Tues Im sitting in brutal stop and go traffic and I start to see the temp gauge creep up - So I get off the freeway and into town traffic and the engine temp went down to normal - So I decided thats the sign time to take her in - The temp never went into the red btw -
    So because of her age and also the fact that I had been putting off the timing belt I decided what the heck get all of it done now - So I pick up the car yesterday from the shop and the mechanic tells me it never overheated no leaks everything checks out but keep an eye on the temp gauage because while the car never went red I still could have warped the head gasket (another pricey repair) - So I drive her home putting some stress on the engine by running the AC and the temp stays rock solid so Im pretty cheerful until Im almost home and I get off the freeway and Im sitting at a light only to watch the temp start to creep up again - Off goes the AC - Off goes everything I flip the heater on but dont turn on the fans and the engine temp drops right back down to its normal position and stays there for the remainder of my trip - I get home park the car and turn on the AC just to see if it stresses the engine nope not even a flicker of temp gauge creep - Nothing.

    Drive to work this morning and because Im paranoid I kept the heater on but no fans and the temp gauage was exactly where it should be both freeway and town sitting at lights - I live in Texas and the summer heat is rough on cars so any one got any advice for me - And if you really think its a head gasket (be gentle).
    :cry:
  • wiseguyly69wiseguyly69 Member Posts: 1
    HI,

    I'm posting for a friend. She took her '97 Civic to a mechanic and he said the snake belt was gone and that it goes at around 70,000 miles in Civics. He also said it would cost her $400 and if she went to a dealer it would be $700. I haven't looked around for prices yet, but even still it sounds high. I got a chevy snake belt for about 125 a couple years ago. Does anyone know about this trend of snake belts going at 70,000 in Civics?

    Any help would be appreciated,

    Mike
  • gee35coupegee35coupe Member Posts: 3,387
    Sounds like you have a bad cooling fan, fan relay, or the temp sensor that turns the fans on. Not very hard to troubleshoot and cheaper to replace than the head gasket.

    In my experience the head gasket would have reared it's ugly head on the freeway at the higher RPM's. Overheating while idling usually signals a cooling system problem.
  • isellhondasisellhondas Member Posts: 20,342
    Never heard of a "snake" belt?

    If you are talking about your timing belt, those need to be replaced on a 97 Civic at 105,000 miles or seven years whichever comes first. It's due now because of the years. These never "go" at 70,000 miles so you were given bad information by this mechanic. While they are "in there" it's a good thing to replace the drive belts and water pump too.
  • andrew9andrew9 Member Posts: 4
    I just bought a 2005 Civic Ex 5spd coupe. The car had about 300 miles on it when I noticed that the transmission makes a soft whining noise when I am cruising at low RPM. It is noticable when I take off from a stop from about 1500-3000 RPM. Im not sure if this is normal and I am hearing the noise just because the motor is so incredebly quiet or if this is a potential problem. This is the first manual front wheel drive vehicle that I have owned, is this normal?
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Member Posts: 2,798
    HI,

    I'm posting for a friend. She took her '97 Civic to a mechanic and he said the snake belt was gone and that it goes at around 70,000 miles in Civics. He also said it would cost her $400 and if she went to a dealer it would be $700. I haven't looked around for prices yet, but even still it sounds high. I got a chevy snake belt for about 125 a couple years ago. Does anyone know about this trend of snake belts going at 70,000 in Civics?

    Any help would be appreciated,

    Mike

    Serpentine belt is not timing belt and should not cost $400 or $700 to replace. Timing belt on the other hand does cost about that. I am with isellhonda, the timing belt should be replaced due to age at this point, even if she is not up to the miles. While they are at it, they should replace the water pump. The part it self is about $100, but labor is $400 when done by itself. Since they are replacing the timing belt already, they could replace the water pump and you just pay for the parts.

    What is the "snake belt" never heard of it? If it is Serpentine belt, it should not cost $400 to replace, not even at the dealer. Call the dealer and ask them how much it wold cost to replace the serpentine belt, instead of guessing. I would estimate it costing about $100, considering the $80/hour labor charge at the dealer. It should be half of that at the independant shop. Serpentine belt is an easy DIY job for $10-$15 in parts.
  • isellhondasisellhondas Member Posts: 20,342
    Civics don't use a serpentine belt.

    These aren't as easy to change on some cars as you may think either!
  • disneydelsoldisneydelsol Member Posts: 4
    I hear water swishing back and forth behind my seat when I turn a sharp corner. Is there any way to drain this water? How could the water be getting into my car? I hear the sound behind me, so could the loose seal around my front windshield be the cause? How do I get the seal around the windshield fixed? How much does something like that cost?
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Member Posts: 2,798
    I hear water swishing back and forth behind my seat when I turn a sharp corner. Is there any way to drain this water? How could the water be getting into my car? I hear the sound behind me, so could the loose seal around my front windshield be the cause? How do I get the seal around the windshield fixed? How much does something like that cost?

    Did you touch the carpets to see if they are wet? Are you sure it is water you are hearing and not the tires? Doesn't del sol come with T-tops? Did you replace a windshield recently? Have you thought about using shop vac to suck up the water, if it is water? How about just leaving the car open the let it air dry? Does it smell mildewy?
  • ncampbell2002ncampbell2002 Member Posts: 163
    I bet its the gas splashing around inside the gas tank...I get a similar sound behind me when I shut off the car, especially right after I fill it up.
  • jwmahoneyjwmahoney Member Posts: 4
    THANKS FOR THE INFORMATION AND QUICK REPLY.
    IS THERE AN IMPACT WRENCH AVAILABLE THAT WILL LOOSEN THIS BOLT WITHOUT USING A CRANK SHAFT HOLDER?
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