Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!
Honda Civic: Problems & Solutions
This discussion has been closed.
Popular New Cars
Popular Used Sedans
Popular Used SUVs
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
Comments
I own an 04 civic VP. The mileage is about 11k. At this point I changed the engine oil at a local shop(This is the second lube service since I purchased this car). Now there is a few oil leaking underneath which never happened before. Since I don't know much about car, there is no conclusion I could make by myself. However I would assume that guy who changed the oil did something wrong, maybe the oil was over added. Could anyone give me some comments, and if this will eventually damage the engine?
thanks!
It seems like the rocking will go away for a little while after replacing the bushing, then it comes back again. Will Honda keep replacing these seat bushings even after the warranty expires since its a known problem?
I own an 04 civic VP. The mileage is about 11k. At this point I changed the engine oil at a local shop(This is the second lube service since I purchased this car). Now there is a few oil leaking underneath which never happened before. Since I don't know much about car, there is no conclusion I could make by myself. However I would assume that guy who changed the oil did something wrong, maybe the oil was over added. Could anyone give me some comments, and if this will eventually damage the engine?
thanks!
If it was done at one of those "Jiffy lube" oil changing places chances are that they nevere reaplced the crush washer with a new one. They just tightened the the plug over the old one. You will be lucky if they have not stripped the thread on the alluminum oil pan, which will cost you more to re-thread than you will save by doing oil changes at "quicky lube"
It is also possible that the filter is not on tight.
It is also possible that they spilled some oil on the cross member, or control arm while removing the filter and now it is just dripping away, until it gets on the hot exhaust pipe and you car goes up in smoke.
Solution:
1)Go back and have them find out why it is dripping.
2) Next time go to a dealer, or a place that hires competent workforce.
I don't think 1989 Civic CRX came with air bags to have an SRS light on the dashboard.
But anyway, sounds like you have alternator, voltage regulator or battery not being up to the task. Either the subs fried the stock alternator/voltage regulator, or battery is too small for the power draw.
Get a bigger battery
Get a bigger alternator/voltage regulator.
Audi nearly went out of business years ago when their cars got blamed for this. It was strictly driver error.
This may be a case of buyer's remorse...I don't know.
Audi nearly went out of business years ago when their cars got blamed for this. It was strictly driver error.
This may be a case of buyer's remorse...I don't know.
If the car was idling high, it is very possible that when engaged auto tranny will make the car lurch. One should not engage auto tranny when the engine is revving above 1000 RPM's. I wouldn't be surprised if the manual mentioned "fast idle" operation.
As for the previous 3 posts, one more reason to get Honda with a manual. It is a shame, Honda makes the slickest manual and the most buttery clutch mated to an engine designed to take advantage of the manual shift and clutch, and people waste all that engineering on a slush box.
I'll be the first to admit that Honda has not figured out how to make Auto trannys, but they have definatley mastered the manual. Get what they are good at.
I suspect much ado about nothing but then, I wasn't there either. I've driven, literally thousands of Hondas and I've never experienced this.
:confuse:
Failing alternator may be the symptom not the cause. You have to find out why the alternator failed in the first place. It may also depend where you get your alternator. AutoZone is known for really shoddy parts, but they are cheap, and poeple like that. If you got the alternator from AutoZone, then I would not be surprized if it failed again for no apparent reason.
What you describe could be a sign of tranny skipping a gear. It could be computer related or mechanical. How hard are you pressing the accelerator when it happends? You may not be givingf it enough gas to shift sequencially, and it skips a gear. Next time, on a clear street or an empty parking lot, put the tranny in D, floor the accelerator and watch the tach. You should had 4 distinct shifts, and one minor shift. Allow enough room to slow down, as you will be reaching 60-80 mph.
If it is integrated in the alternator and you have a problem locating an alternator, or it is expensive, an auto electric shop should be able to replace the integrated voltage regulator inside the alternator.
Stan
I have been advised that there may be a relay, or fuse, or switch problem inside the driver side door. I'd be willing to take the inside door panel off, but experience tells me it is easier to do if you know the right sequence to remove a couple screws, and pop the trim clips, and I don't.
I'd appreciate either of:
1) Advice regarding possible power window repair ideas
2) Advice for removing the drivers side door panel to look for/at any switch/fuse/relay inside there.
Thanks,
Jere
It is diffuclt to diagnose ofver the internet, but I can suggest you try Honda OEM Alernator. Try online parts shops, like HandA and Fair Honda. You would have to call them for the price on the part, but it will be cheaper than your local dealer. Honda designed the 7th generation alternators to be "free wheeling" when battery is 100-85% charged. The "freewheeling" is achieved through the voltage regulator, which I believe is built into the alternator. I am not sure if aftermarket replacements have the same circuitry as OEM.
As far as the tranny goes. Is it manual or Auto? Sounds like Auto going through the "grade logic" algorithm. The car is basically downshifting like a manual would, to assist in braking.
John Mahoney
I bought the tool from one of the on-line speed shops, I think it is a Moroso brand, around $80. Knowing the torque involved, I wouldn't go with anything that is low quality. After the crank is held, there are stories of people standing on very long cheater bars trying to loosen the bolt.
One of the best solutions that I have heard of is to take it to a garage that can apply the proper impact wrench to loosen the bolt. Have them retighten enough for you to drive home and complete the job yourself.
they suggested to install a new radiator, so i did.
then next day, it overheat again, so i took my car again, and fixed a fan.
when i picked up my car, a mechanic said my temperature gauge read higher than actual temperature.
so i drove for 30mins, it goes to RED.
engine doesn't seem that hot, and i just fixed the radiator and fan, so shouldn't overheat anyway,
but every time i see the needle point RED i get nervous.
i dont really want to pay again to check radiator, any suggestion?
thanks
they suggested to install a new radiator, so i did.
then next day, it overheat again, so i took my car again, and fixed a fan.
when i picked up my car, a mechanic said my temperature gauge read higher than actual temperature.
so i drove for 30mins, it goes to RED.
engine doesn't seem that hot, and i just fixed the radiator and fan, so shouldn't overheat anyway,
but every time i see the needle point RED i get nervous.
i dont really want to pay again to check radiator, any suggestion?
thanks
Although it is possible that the gauge is faulty, I would not rule out the coolant flow problem as the cause. Either water pump is not pumping it, or there is blockage somewhere, such as stuck thermostat, or calcium build up from using tap water, and non-Honda branded antifreeze.
Appreciate your quick response
John
So because of her age and also the fact that I had been putting off the timing belt I decided what the heck get all of it done now - So I pick up the car yesterday from the shop and the mechanic tells me it never overheated no leaks everything checks out but keep an eye on the temp gauage because while the car never went red I still could have warped the head gasket (another pricey repair) - So I drive her home putting some stress on the engine by running the AC and the temp stays rock solid so Im pretty cheerful until Im almost home and I get off the freeway and Im sitting at a light only to watch the temp start to creep up again - Off goes the AC - Off goes everything I flip the heater on but dont turn on the fans and the engine temp drops right back down to its normal position and stays there for the remainder of my trip - I get home park the car and turn on the AC just to see if it stresses the engine nope not even a flicker of temp gauge creep - Nothing.
Drive to work this morning and because Im paranoid I kept the heater on but no fans and the temp gauage was exactly where it should be both freeway and town sitting at lights - I live in Texas and the summer heat is rough on cars so any one got any advice for me - And if you really think its a head gasket (be gentle).
I'm posting for a friend. She took her '97 Civic to a mechanic and he said the snake belt was gone and that it goes at around 70,000 miles in Civics. He also said it would cost her $400 and if she went to a dealer it would be $700. I haven't looked around for prices yet, but even still it sounds high. I got a chevy snake belt for about 125 a couple years ago. Does anyone know about this trend of snake belts going at 70,000 in Civics?
Any help would be appreciated,
Mike
In my experience the head gasket would have reared it's ugly head on the freeway at the higher RPM's. Overheating while idling usually signals a cooling system problem.
If you are talking about your timing belt, those need to be replaced on a 97 Civic at 105,000 miles or seven years whichever comes first. It's due now because of the years. These never "go" at 70,000 miles so you were given bad information by this mechanic. While they are "in there" it's a good thing to replace the drive belts and water pump too.
I'm posting for a friend. She took her '97 Civic to a mechanic and he said the snake belt was gone and that it goes at around 70,000 miles in Civics. He also said it would cost her $400 and if she went to a dealer it would be $700. I haven't looked around for prices yet, but even still it sounds high. I got a chevy snake belt for about 125 a couple years ago. Does anyone know about this trend of snake belts going at 70,000 in Civics?
Any help would be appreciated,
Mike
Serpentine belt is not timing belt and should not cost $400 or $700 to replace. Timing belt on the other hand does cost about that. I am with isellhonda, the timing belt should be replaced due to age at this point, even if she is not up to the miles. While they are at it, they should replace the water pump. The part it self is about $100, but labor is $400 when done by itself. Since they are replacing the timing belt already, they could replace the water pump and you just pay for the parts.
What is the "snake belt" never heard of it? If it is Serpentine belt, it should not cost $400 to replace, not even at the dealer. Call the dealer and ask them how much it wold cost to replace the serpentine belt, instead of guessing. I would estimate it costing about $100, considering the $80/hour labor charge at the dealer. It should be half of that at the independant shop. Serpentine belt is an easy DIY job for $10-$15 in parts.
These aren't as easy to change on some cars as you may think either!
Did you touch the carpets to see if they are wet? Are you sure it is water you are hearing and not the tires? Doesn't del sol come with T-tops? Did you replace a windshield recently? Have you thought about using shop vac to suck up the water, if it is water? How about just leaving the car open the let it air dry? Does it smell mildewy?
IS THERE AN IMPACT WRENCH AVAILABLE THAT WILL LOOSEN THIS BOLT WITHOUT USING A CRANK SHAFT HOLDER?